Meaning Preston Dodge gets to figure out why modern technology results in a poor runnning engine during cold start. bpeebles and ahasher: Stay tuned, this should be interesting. BTW, the line "they all do that" or "the scan tool didn't pick up any codes" won't work with me. They will let me use a Rental car while they have the truck. I hope it will be a comfortable car as I anticipate driving it a while.
I'm assuming you have the 4.7 Is it a shuddering, shaking type of vibration? Or is it more like mine, which has a subtle type of feedback vibration, or drone, as your service guy stated. It's hard to explain exactly how it feels, but I would say it "feels" kinda how road noise "sounds", right in the pedal itself. No other vehicles I've ever owned had any weird feeling like this--all were relatively smooth.
Hi, I have a 97 Dakota V6 3.9. On 2 occassions the vehicle has developed this cut-out problem. Upon starting it acts as if the choke is stuck or maybe water in the tank. The only way the vehicle will remain running, is if I hold the accelerator down. Eventually, this works its self out, but only after continually stopping with my foot on the brake and the gas at the same time. Anybody out there having similar problems. Has about 47K miles.- thanks
Help Please !! Had a sheet of plywood hit my tailgate , Big dent and want a new white tailgate for it any ideas where I could get one ?? I know I can buy one for 250.00 and have it painted but I would rather try to find a cherry one that was factory painted Please Advise TraumaGas@aol.com
I have a 2000 Dakota club cab. On an inconsistant basis, when I turn the climate control knob to 'off', I get this odd buzzing noise, something along the lines of an alarm or siren with a dying battery. It doesn't happen all the time, and it promptly goes away when I turn the climate control knob on to any setting. Anyone have any idea what this could be?
D-Day.. mopar67, I will certainly be interested in knowing the results of your experiences with the cold start, which I believe to be associated with the idle problem at operating temp, and coming to a stoplight. I too will be going in soon (work permitting) since I have compiled a small manual of info on the idle problem, thanks to several esteemed members of this board. Good luck on your visit, and I hope they solve your problem.
to ahasher: So do I my friend so do I. I envision an argument because I know damn well they'll hook up the DRB tool and say "Golleeeee, there ain't no trouble codes in here so we can't fix it" Ever see a scanner tool get inserted someplace on the human body? Me neither. Might see it happen this Wednesday though.
mopar67 "Golleeeee, there ain't no trouble codes in here so we can't fix it"
Yup, that just about sums it up. I had the MIL come on once, after 4 restarts the light went out never to appear again. By the time I got the truck to the dealer, the light was out, and they "could not duplicate". At least the problem was documented in case it reappears. However, I did the ignition switch routine on-off-on-off-on and got a code P0320.
Hope they figure out your problem. By the way, I did not know that a scan tool can take someone's temperature. good luck, Bob
I'll start out simple.. I would like to know if anyone knows if there is a way to defeat the 2nd O2 sensor. My catylist is rattling in my converter and instead of buying a new one. I might just zip open the case and remove it. I just put a nice cat back on, and am sure the truck would benefit from the extra breathing room. I studied the manual and am kind of sure all the 2nd sensor does is monitor the catylist. I believe all it will do is light the check engine light. ( I gues I could paint the bulb black). The first sensor will still monitor the exhaust gas and set the correct air-fuel ratio. I thought I could somehow use the output from the first sensor to feed the computer, but the switching rate has to be different somehow. Does anyone know how to fool the computer into thinking it's still there? I can't wait for you enviromentalists' to get back to me!
Transmission coolers are essential for today's vehicles high operating temperatures. Basically, your trans life is extended by running the fluid thru one of two types of coolers. The most common is the type which is built into your radiator, there are two lines from the tranny which carry the fluid from the tranny to the cooler and back to the tranny. The second type is a standalone cooler which is usually mounted in front of your radiator; the cooling process is the same. The power steering cooler functions the same way, it circulates the fluid to the cooler where excessive heat is given off thereby cooling the fluid. Result is lower operating temperatures for your power steering pump. Which means longer life for the pump and rack. The end result of having both these on your truck is longer life for your power steering components and transmission. This is especially true if you haul heavy loads or do a lot of towing. In fact, a transmission cooler is MANDATORY if you do towing. Heat is the biggest enemy of an automatic transmission. Heat breaks down the fluid, the fluid then cannot lubricate properly and all kinds of maladies start to happen. Even if you don't do heavy duty towing or hauling, both are still good to have. Anything that keeps the transmission temperature at a reasonable level is a big plus. Get those options.
Thanks for the answer and advice. I had some idea about the trans cooler; my car has one. But I didn't really know about the purpose of them and you answered that.
i questioned my service manager when i picked up my quad about this. He told me the the rear ends with lsd (anti-spin differential) have synthetic lube in them from the factory !!! is this really true ???
please do not listen to them, thats what my service manager told me and i had 5 rebuilds and finally a new rearend put on my truck because of not using synthetic and heavy towing within trucks limits to begin with. now dodge is buying my truck back after my dealer messed it up (very happy they are standing behind the dealers mistake). synthetic is not listed in any literature under any of the options catagories. please do not make this mistake! if it has changed get him to show you in dodge literature where it is listed!
by all means get the 45RFE. Better yet, I'll give you mine. From day one it has not shifted properly (slams hard on the 2-3 upshift)plus its VERY complex and high maintanence. Example the manual requires full fluid and filter changes every 30K. SO far the dealer keeps reseting the TCM back to baseline specs and it still has not learned how to shift properly. After 14k you would think it would have learned by now. Maybe my driving is too complex. Who knows? Two co workers have full size rams with the 46RE and I have driven both (they have the 360) and I can tell you the 46RE shifts much better than the 45RFE. Drive hard, easy, or inbetween, and the 46RE shifts like a charm. Bpeebles got a five speed and if you really want the 4.7, then go with the five speed manual. If I had it to do over, that is what I would do. But its your choice and this is only my opinion.
I have the 4.7 with 45RFE and have nothing bad to say about it. I have heard of several problems with the old 46RE and would not trust one. The new transmission is more complex, but I have used other make electronic transmissions with great success. I suspect Mopar67 has technician problems more than transmission problems. Too many dealers don't hire the best and brightest and do not give them adequate training. As far as changing tranny oil goes, it is going to happen to all of them in the near future. I have been doing a 30,000 change on all my vehicles for years. It is ridiculous to expect lubricated mechanism to go over 100,000 miles without an oil change.
i have the 4.7 with the auto & love it. i only have 1300 miles on it so far, but man , its smooth as silk. last weekend, i towed my 27' sportboat with it, it was smooth & out performed my old truck, a 92' dakota club cab with 5.2 & auto. so far, i'm totally happy with my 2001 quadcab !!
WHere would technician problems come into play since there is only 14K on the truck and this was a problem from day one? Sounds more like a design/manufacturing flaw to me.
Technician problems come into play because that is Chryslers biggest problem. They have a dealer service network that doesn't even know how to change a tire. The vehicles are engineered and built fine. The dealers don't know how to service them. I dread it when the time comes to take a vehicle in to a dealer because of a warranty issue. I have to tell them how to diagnose it and how to fix it.
I'll bet that if you switched dealers and found one that has a mechanic who KNOWS how to work on it that it would be fixed once and for all the first time.
I have been a mopar man for several decades. In all this time I have yet to see a dealer mechanic who knows what he is doing. That is what Chrysler's problem is. Poor dealer service.
only problem is the next dodge dealer is MILES away. Guess I'll have to decide how bad I want this fixed and make a drive over there. At least one thing is nice and that is my dealer gives me a car to drive. The Camry is nice. But a truck it ain't.
Washed the truck this weekend. Boy, what a job. I would like some recommendations on which product to use in order to get off tar and other stubborn gunk that would not wash off. Thanks, Bob
I travel 135 miles(one way) to have dealer service because of the lack of decent dealer mechanics in my area. It may be more hassle, but my vehicles spend less time in the shop because the work is done right the first time. On your transmission, the last thing you want is for them to flash the memory every time. The computer learns your driving style, so every time you flash it, you are starting from scratch. It is like any computer, you build up a library of words in the dictionary and load a bunch of forms. Then a glitch occurs and the tech rep wipes the memory. If it solves the problem, fine, but if the problems reoccurs, it just means a hassle for you because they are not correcting the problem.
Bob, I washed my Gretchen last week and I can attest that the stuff that accumulates on the lower body panels (tar, bugs, animal parts, etc.)can sure be a bear gettin' off. I ended up using a combination of "goof-off" (my middle name) and wd-40. between the two of them she cleaned up pretty well, but elbow grease also had to be applied (bookitty knows of a couple of on-line suppliers of elbow grease). :-) Enjoy your bath! scottie
Guys, my Elbow Grease manufacturer went Chapter 11. However, I remember using turpentine to remove tar and road [non-permissible content removed]. It reportedly has the same base as packaged bug and tar removal.
mopar67.. curiosity is getting to me. How did your service visit go? Were you satisfied with the work (cold start in particular).. and can you pass on any tips you might have picked up? I still haven't gone in for my idle issue. Oddly, with the onset of warm weather, it has subsided considerably.. so I am holding off till it's convenient to take time off from work to spend quality time in the service bay.
GOt the latest and greatest "gosh hope it works this time" update to the PCM. Ahhh, such is the wonders of engineering prowess these days. The scoop is the third of three updates for the PCM has been done. Now the idle is approx 650 in drive, the curb idle in park is smoother, and so far, no mystery starts. They even tagged the PCM with the update label. Second, the DRUMS were out of round,so the NAFTA sourced parts got a trip to the lathe making them round again. Time will tell on that one. Needs to warm up a little to see if the starting problem is cured once and for all. Stay tuned. If this don't fix it, bpeebles will get a visit from me this year. While he sleeps, I will take his PCM and swap it with mine. He'll never know!
Has anyone put the synthetic lube in the rear differential themselves? The dealer apparently wants $130 or so, and if a garage mechanic can do it safely, I will to save $$ and wasted time at theh dealer. What precautions/tips can be imparted to let me know if I should attempt it or just hand over the $$ and have it done. I have the 4.7 auto, 2WD 3.92 and plan on towing a pop-up to the smokies soon..
additive from your dealer. The rest you can do or get someone else to do, its basically an oil change. Be sure to get a gasket or use RTV sealer for the differential cover.
That's my name too! Y'know there's something strange around here, has anyone noticed how many Bob and Norm's there are around here? Is Dodge targeting the Bob and Norm populations?!?
-uh, oh yeah... Bob, I use Castrol Super Clean as an adjunct to cleaning the truck. You can find it at K-mart or any auto store. It's great stuff and cleans grease, tar, and bug goo that soap won't touch (It's probably dilute kerosene!).
Thanks for the suggestions for tar removal products.
biglucy...A lot of Bob and Norms. just like the TV show "This Old House" I agree, seems there are a lot of Roberts around. Have you experienced that when someone says "Hey Bob", half the room turns around?
I have a 98 with 5-speed. I have Mobile-1 gear lube in the tranny and rear end. No problems, but my truck lives a sheltered life. I only have 16k miles and the bigest load I haul is my 55 lb son and 230 lb race car. I like synthetic lube and I think it shifts better in the suber cold.
Preston, all or most factory service manuals or owners guides word specifications for lubricants in a similar way. However, most independent suppliers proclaim the fact that they meet all manufacturers warranty guides for their products. I have been personally involved in cases where owners of our construction equipment used lubricants, hydraulic oil and/or filters from a third party source and had problems with the equipment. In each and every case where our warranty department refused the claim, and the product was shown to be "equal to or better than" those decisions were reversed. A couple in court, a few following letters from attorneys, and the rest when field people told them to "grow up!" If the product that you use is sound and meets the requirements set forth by the manufacturer (we know that D/C does not actually produce any of these lubricants) then the manufacturer must accept them or have one damn good reason for turning down a warranty claim. By providing the supplier with the part number; Mopar PN 4874464 they should be able to supply an "equal to or better than" classification product. Usually the suppliers can cross reference manufacturers' part numbers. The trick here, is to see if a synthetic product meets specifications. There are so many generic type products that are the exact replication of specialty items that sell for many more dollars. Air tool oil @$5.95 for a 4 ounce bottle; ATF $.99 per quart. Butcher block oil @ $5.95 per 4 ounce bottle; mineral oil $1.29 per pint and so forth. Hope that this helps.
Spilled my coffee again this morning, therefore turning down the NAFTA drums on a lathe didn't do diddly. Looks like front rotors (another NAFTA item) will be next. However, the idle has improved vastly. 625-650 RPM in drive, no stalls on cold starts and no longer does the idle dip down when at operating temp while in drive. Third time a charm? I sure hope so. Tranny still shifts like a dog. Anyone interested in a 45RFE? This is like a box of chocolates, you never know what kind of shift you will get: Hard, firm, lazy, or just when you nod off, a big SLAM! WIll make deal, no reasonable offer refused. Prefer to trade for non-electronic 727 Torqueflite if available. WIll consider hi-milage units, as the 727 can be rebuilt for a song. Will include TCM (transmission control module) as a bonus! Don't delay!
Beach, I've noticed in your posts regarding idle speeds that your numbers are rather precise for the analog tachometer in the truck. Are you using a computer to determine the idle or are you just guesstimating from the tachometer... no big deal, just wondering out loud. I know you don't want to hear this, but I just passed 3K miles and my tranny seems to be cooperating much more these days. It's actually starting to shift more regularly now, rather than making me do the fox trot on the accelerator. Of course, now that I've made this info public, the next ride I take will probably be like riding a bull! No problems with the brakes yet and I am a hard braker because of city traffic - We'll see about this as times goes on.
For you folks who have had brake problems on your QCs, I need your advice. When I slow from 45-50 mph, I hear what sounds like 'brake squeal'. It is happening more and more often. No vibrations from the brake pedal, though. Only have about 3700 miles on it. Other than that, no problems - smooth shifts from my auto tranny and about 14.5 mpg city/to and from work.
I place my hands on the PCM and ask for healing and reconcilliation. It then buzzes and I take the number of buzzes and divide by 3.145874777 multiply that number by the PCM version ID, subtract 8 (no. of cylinders) and bingo! there's my idle speed! Works every time, even better than an electronic tach. In all honesty, I carefully eyeball the needle and watch it during idle. That is how I came up with my numbers. I can only say what the tach says. Heck, after all the slam shifting, maybe its none too accurate anymore. Maybe. UPDATE!!!! Going for a ride with my SERVICE MANAGER this wednesday. During that ride, I will insist he try to drink coffee. Between the herky jerky tranny and the shakin brakes, he will have a hefty dry clean bill.
900 miles on 01 QC 4x4 now, and tranny operates fine. Has been decent all along. (45RFE) Though I do agree that the old, non electronic trannies are superior. Have a 94 Mitsu with e-tranny, have hated it for 8 years (have to accelerate going downhill or it will shift you to 10mph. PITA). Just letting potential purchasers know not everyone is having tranny problems...
All those Bobs and Norms? Well I know what BOB stands for, (Big Orange Book for those who came in late) but what does NORM stand for? National Organization of Retired Men? Whaddya think Boo? ;-) scottie
Scottie, you were correct on the "BOOB" whoops I mean "BOB" but the "NORM" actually stands for "National Organization of Real Men." But, you were close.
Comments
bpeebles and ahasher: Stay tuned, this should be interesting.
BTW, the line "they all do that" or "the scan tool didn't pick up any codes" won't work with me.
They will let me use a Rental car while they have the truck.
I hope it will be a comfortable car as I anticipate driving it a while.
Floating power....yup I recall now how Plymouth civilized cars because of it.
Fred Zeder, Carl Breer, Owen Skelton......all belong in the automotive hall of fame if not already!
Is it a shuddering, shaking type of vibration? Or is it more like mine, which has a subtle type of feedback vibration, or drone, as your service guy stated.
It's hard to explain exactly how it feels, but I would say it "feels" kinda how road noise "sounds", right in the pedal itself.
No other vehicles I've ever owned had any weird feeling like this--all were relatively smooth.
Has about 47K miles.- thanks
Had a sheet of plywood hit my tailgate , Big dent and want a new white tailgate for it any ideas where I could get one ?? I know I can buy one for 250.00 and have it painted but I would rather try to find a cherry one that was factory painted Please Advise
TraumaGas@aol.com
So do I my friend so do I. I envision an argument because I know damn well they'll hook up the DRB tool and say "Golleeeee, there ain't no trouble codes in here so we can't fix it"
Ever see a scanner tool get inserted someplace on the human body?
Me neither.
Might see it happen this Wednesday though.
"Golleeeee, there ain't no trouble codes in here so we can't fix it"
Yup, that just about sums it up.
I had the MIL come on once, after 4 restarts the light went out never to appear again. By the time I got the truck to the dealer, the light was out, and they "could not duplicate". At least the problem was documented in case it reappears.
However, I did the ignition switch routine on-off-on-off-on and got a code P0320.
Hope they figure out your problem.
By the way, I did not know that a scan tool can take someone's temperature.
good luck,
Bob
I can't wait for you enviromentalists' to get back to me!
The power steering cooler functions the same way, it circulates the fluid to the cooler where excessive heat is given off thereby cooling the fluid. Result is lower operating temperatures for your power steering pump. Which means longer life for the pump and rack.
The end result of having both these on your truck is longer life for your power steering components and transmission. This is especially true if you haul heavy loads or do a lot of towing. In fact, a transmission cooler is MANDATORY if you do towing. Heat is the biggest enemy of an automatic transmission. Heat breaks down the fluid, the fluid then cannot lubricate properly and all kinds of maladies start to happen.
Even if you don't do heavy duty towing or hauling, both are still good to have. Anything that keeps the transmission temperature at a reasonable level is a big plus. Get those options.
Thanks for the answer and advice. I had some idea about the trans cooler; my car has one. But I didn't really know about the purpose of them and you answered that.
thanks,
tom !!!!!!!!!!111
good luck
robert
Is the 5.9/46RFE a more stable (older) platform?
Are there any reliability or maintenance issues or differences?
Just asking to gather info for a purchase.
Two co workers have full size rams with the 46RE and I have driven both (they have the 360) and I can tell you the 46RE shifts much better than the 45RFE. Drive hard, easy, or inbetween, and the 46RE shifts like a charm.
Bpeebles got a five speed and if you really want the 4.7, then go with the five speed manual. If I had it to do over, that is what I would do. But its your choice and this is only my opinion.
tom !!!!!!!!!1
Sounds more like a design/manufacturing flaw to me.
I'll bet that if you switched dealers and found one that has a mechanic who KNOWS how to work on it that it would be fixed once and for all the first time.
I have been a mopar man for several decades. In all this time I have yet to see a dealer mechanic who knows what he is doing. That is what Chrysler's problem is. Poor dealer service.
Guess I'll have to decide how bad I want this fixed and make a drive over there.
At least one thing is nice and that is my dealer gives me a car to drive.
The Camry is nice. But a truck it ain't.
How do these engines stand up? With Auto Trans?
How is the heater for COLD country
Price is 63% of new -- too high in my opimion ??
Wil eiher buy new or take this clean machine
Great site -- will stay with it & see how she goe!
I would like some recommendations on which product to use in order to get off tar and other stubborn gunk that would not wash off.
Thanks,
Bob
I washed my Gretchen last week and I can attest that the stuff that accumulates on the lower body panels (tar, bugs, animal parts, etc.)can sure be a bear gettin' off. I ended up using a combination of "goof-off" (my middle name) and wd-40. between the two of them she cleaned up pretty well, but elbow grease also had to be applied (bookitty knows of a couple of on-line suppliers of elbow grease).
:-)
Enjoy your bath!
scottie
However, I remember using turpentine to remove tar
and road [non-permissible content removed]. It reportedly has the same base as packaged bug and tar removal.
Bookitty
Needs to warm up a little to see if the starting problem is cured once and for all.
Stay tuned. If this don't fix it, bpeebles will get a visit from me this year. While he sleeps, I will take his PCM and swap it with mine. He'll never know!
Drive Safe,
Joe
That's my name too! Y'know there's something strange around here, has anyone noticed how many Bob and Norm's there are around here? Is Dodge targeting the Bob and Norm populations?!?
-uh, oh yeah... Bob, I use Castrol Super Clean as an adjunct to cleaning the truck. You can find it at K-mart or any auto store. It's great stuff and cleans grease, tar, and bug goo that soap won't touch (It's probably dilute kerosene!).
I have: QC with 4.7 / 4x4 / 5sp / lsd
I was looking to change all of the fluids this weekend & when I looked at the specs for the fluids it said (in the BOB & owners manual):
Front Axle: SAE 75W-90 gear oil
(that's good - no questions about using synth oil)
Transfer case: Type 7176 ATF - (standard mopar auto xmsn fluid)
NV 3500 transmission (5spd manual): Mopar PN 4874464 is the ONLY type recommended or accepted
Rear Axle: SAE 75W-90 gear oil
(I am currently using Mobil 1 synth with the required Mopar friction modifier for LSD)
My questions:
1) Is there a Automatic transmission fluid that is synthetic to replace the type 7176 ATF?
2) Is there anyone using a synthetic in a 5sp manual? Is so, what weight/type & have you had any problems with it.
3) If anyone has changed the fluid in their 5sp manual, what type (brand/weight) did you use (dino or synth)
4) Can Dodge prohibit using anything but Mopar fluids in the transmission?
Thanx for any help,
Preston
AKA: Cowtown Aggie
biglucy...A lot of Bob and Norms. just like the TV show "This Old House"
I agree, seems there are a lot of Roberts around. Have you experienced that when someone says "Hey Bob", half the room turns around?
Drive Safe,
Joe
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/toys.htm
those decisions were reversed. A couple in court, a few following letters from attorneys, and the rest when field people told them to "grow up!" If the product that you use is sound and meets the requirements set forth by the manufacturer (we know that D/C does not actually produce any of these lubricants) then the manufacturer must accept them or have one damn good reason for turning down a warranty claim. By providing the supplier with the part number; Mopar PN 4874464 they should be able to supply an "equal to or better than" classification product. Usually the suppliers can cross reference manufacturers' part numbers. The trick here, is to see if a synthetic product meets specifications. There are so many
generic type products that are the exact replication of specialty items that sell for many more dollars. Air tool oil @$5.95 for a 4 ounce bottle; ATF $.99 per quart. Butcher block oil @ $5.95 per 4 ounce bottle; mineral oil $1.29 per pint and so forth. Hope that this helps.
Bookitty
However, the idle has improved vastly. 625-650 RPM in drive, no stalls on cold starts and no longer does the idle dip down when at operating temp while in drive. Third time a charm? I sure hope so.
Tranny still shifts like a dog. Anyone interested in a 45RFE? This is like a box of chocolates, you never know what kind of shift you will get: Hard, firm, lazy, or just when you nod off, a big SLAM! WIll make deal, no reasonable offer refused. Prefer to trade for non-electronic 727 Torqueflite if available. WIll consider hi-milage units, as the 727 can be rebuilt for a song. Will include TCM (transmission control module) as a bonus!
Don't delay!
In all honesty, I carefully eyeball the needle and watch it during idle. That is how I came up with my numbers. I can only say what the tach says. Heck, after all the slam shifting, maybe its none too accurate anymore. Maybe.
UPDATE!!!! Going for a ride with my SERVICE MANAGER this wednesday. During that ride, I will insist he try to drink coffee. Between the herky jerky tranny and the shakin brakes, he will have a hefty dry clean bill.
;-)
scottie
Bookitty