Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

mopar67

to which you refer? Don't tell me Chrysler has weaknesses in wiring bundles as well!
I already know about the lousy brakes.
Ahasher>>>FYI I would have dealer check other connections as well.
Humble sympathies on your meltdown. Sounds kinda scary to say the least. I know the feeling when one thing gets fixed only to have another one crop up. I hope your dealer does a better job on this mess than he did with your idle.

ahasher

the relay shorting the circuit "hot/on/energized" causing the fan to run constantly and the relay getting hot enought to melt(if I get the principle right).. I simply have been upset it happened at all.. and mopar67 brings up a good point of further damage... but at least I will have a DEALER SERVICE RECEIPT showing it was considered repaired by them, in case of future problems with it.. oh well
The Durango is kinda cool. nice seats (SOUND FAMILIAR??) So comparing the similar interiors between the QC and Durango...the 01 dash is "interesting" but I like the 00 better. However the center console (appears to be the same as the QC) is MUCH better than the 00. I wonder if I can swapp it out ;-)
I still MUCH prefer the QC though.. it simply felt and handled better...

bpeebles

(mopar67)Are you really printing all of my appends? Is this good or a bad thing?

The infamous "ticking sound" was noted on the early 2000 (built in late 99) Dakota/Durangos with the 4.7L V8 Hemi engine.

There was a TSB calling for the dealer to "re-route some ground wires on the firewall" under the hood. Several folks here on the Edmunds forums encounterd the ticking and had the dealer perform the corrective action.

I, on the other hand, pulled each of the ground connections and solderd the crimp-on connectors. I also filed to bare metal beneath each one before bolting back into place.

I took extensive voltage and resisance measurements before and after my work and noted an improvement in the measurements.

ritzoid

I have a 2001 QC 4.7 5spd with 4100 miles on it. I, too, noticed the "Magilla gorilla" oil filter install when I did my first oil change at 500 miles. I happened to mention it to my salesman who told me that I should not have changed the oil before 3000 miles 'cuz Dodge uses a special oil for break-in. I had never heard of such a thing and saw no mention of it in the owner's manual. Any of you savvy folks heard of that before? Second question -- I've noticed an air rush kind of sound when "blipping" the throttle to downshift. I popped the hood and manually revved the engine and can hear the same noise near the throttle body but can see no cracks nor are any of the hoses loose. Performance and mileage have not changed. Is this normal intake noise or should I take the truck in for a check up? Sorry for the long post. Thanks to all for the always informative reading. Steve

bookitty

Steve, the guy who tightens the filters on the new cars and trucks is Superthumb, Jr. His dad used to do the battery caps when they were used years ago. As far as the salesman referring to "special break-in oil", you have discovered an extremely valuable commodity. A genuine organic fertilizer machine. Take him to your garden and get him to talk.

Bookitty

macey

I looked through my 2001 manual and Tire Pressure sheet and saw the manual's warning about under-inflating (and also over-inflating) tires, yet no mention of 40 PSI...this must be a personnal choice for you guys, right?

FWIW, I had 31x10.5 Dunlop Radial Rover RVs on my 1998 JEEP Sahara for 32K miles before I sold the JEEP, kept those between 32-35PSI and got great even wear, plenty of tread left at 32K miles, and they performed well in all conditions...basically no problems at all...so I split the difference between the Tire Sheet recommendation of 30PSI and posts here saying 40PSI, and inlfated all four tires to 35PSI (when cold).

I noticed max tire pressure is 44PSI, so I figured at 40 cold, and doing 65+ MPH (example, my one way 30 mile trip to work), you stand a chance of going over 44PSI and then having possible over-inflation problems, doing this, in my example, for 300 miles every week.

Thanks for the info and keep the good stuff coming!

henne

hey guys, someone posted a while back that they didnt think we needed the adaptor and i wanted to find out if anyone knew the results of the test. do we need the adaptor or can i just order the f-106-n which includes the nipple?

thanks

robert

bpeebles

(macey)
Page 129 of my "2000 Dakota Pickup Owners Manual"
contains a warning about Light Truck Tires. Basically it states that for operation above 65MPH, Add 10 PSI to the label on the drivers door. LT tires are NOT RECOMENDED for travel at speeds above 85MPH.

Using my math...
30(On the door) + 10(High speed operation) = 40.

Personally, I feel that 40PSI gives a VERY harsh ride and wears the center of the tread more than the edges. (The tires tend to "balloon" in the center)

BTW.... all tire pressures are for COLD pressure. It is expected that the pressure will be higher during use. The 44PSI on the sidewall is a COLD measurement.

mopar67

1. Yes, I have printed out ALL your appends, notes, posts, etc. and while I cannot(and will not) publish the info as my own, I will keep it for reference since it contains "real world" anecdotes not found in BOB or owners manual. I am in the process of acquiring a three ring punch so that I may safely store your posts. I already have a title made up "the work of Bpeebles, INC." Kinda catchy, don't you think?
2. 40 lbs during the last 16K on my Goodyear Wrangler RTS 31x10.5x15 has NOT resulted in center tread wear. Nor would I consider the ride harsh, however this is my subjective opinion. Perhaps this is due to my rotating the rubber each 7500 miles. Again, this is my truck and more than likely we all have different driving habits. Individual experience may vary.
3. Fascinating that you found it necessary to perform extra work to ensure the reliability of your electrical system. Is this something new from Detroit yet to be made public? Is the quality of the far east and NAFTA sourced wiring and assembly that bad? Should we all be concerned? Is it design or manufacturing related?

jeffghs

For those of you who may have had problems with your rotors, and those who haven't yet this is just a reminder that having the lug nuts overtorqued could be a possible cause for warpage. I know this is not breaking news (no pun intended), but it's something I've always been taught. This may not be what has caused yours to warp, but something to possibly check as many folks have had their oil filters overtightened. Who is to say it couldn't happen to your lug nuts.

bpeebles

(mopar67) I would not say it is "necessary to perform extra work to ensure the reliability of your electrical system." but my personal experience tells me it is a good idea. Besides, this takes me about an hour and saves me all kinds of headaches in the future.

I tend to keep my vehicles over 10 years. This is 10 years of salt-laden winters. Any marginal electrical connection on a vehicle will become a problem due to electrolysis. (dissimilar metals touching with current running thru them). The salt becomes an electrolyte in these marginal connections.

This is NOT just a"Detroit" thing... virtually ALL of my vehicles have received this treatment every few years. (Chevy, AMC,VW, Honda, and yes... Dakota)

I guess you have never seen what a "bad ground" can do to an automobile electrical system.
**I have seen batteries "cook" due to overcharging. (bad ground on voltage regulator caused it to put over 18 volts into battery)
**Turn signals that blink the wrong lights. (bad ground at one corner of vehicle causes this)
**brake lights that get DIMMER when the lights are turned on (bad ground in rear of vehicle causes "ground loop" condition forcing current to wrong place.)
** etc...etc

This all gets MUCH worse when computers in automobiles come on to the scene. Fortunately, the design and connectors have become MUCH better in automobiles as of late. Too bad they do not solder ALL of the crimpon connectors. Salt turns these into green powder (copper oxide) then starts up INSIDE the insulation like a cancer eating the wire as it goes.

The other of your questions I will answer are;
Is this something new from Detroit yet to be made public? It has been made public EVERY TIME they sell a vehicle ;-)

Is the quality of the far east and NAFTA sourced wiring and assembly that bad? It is getting better all of the time

Should we all be concerned? I would not loose sleep over it.

"Is it design or manufacturing related? " Automakers now employ REAL electronic design engineers. They have sound designs that are quite robust. I beleive it is the manufacturing process that "cuts corners" and leaves out critical steps that improve reliability.
CASE IN POINT.... the decoupling capacitors on my Dakota injecton / ingnition system are not wired in... The capacitors are installed on the engine but the wiring harness "left out" the connectors. WHAT ABOUT YOURS?

mopar67

Case study: 1962 International Pickup
Symptom: Turn signals "flashed" at random
Cause: Loose connector and corosion on main harness lead from bat/gen circut to firewall
Solution: clean green gunk off terminals, apply silicone sealer to connector (outside only, made sure inside was dry), Install ground cable from engine to frame of truck to also stop the "bermuda Triangle" gas gauge from going wacko.
Analysis: This was expected on a 28 year old farm truck with little or no maintenance.

"I beleive it is the manufacturing process that "cuts corners" and leaves out critical steps that improve reliability." I agree and go one better by adding it is finance (ie beancounters) that cut costs by eliminating crucial steps. Remember the rusted fenders on Aspens/Volares of teh 70's? Finance said 24 bucks could be saved by NOT rustproofing the fenders. Final budget tally on that one 200 million to fix and repair the fenders when Chrysler could ill afford such capital outlay.

mopar67

SOmething we should watch with the utmost vigilance during tire changes/rotations.
For what its worth, back in my day as a "petroleum transfer engineer" my boss forbid us to use air guns to tighten lug nuts on cars. We HAD to use 4 way lug wrench. He must have been doing something right, we never had a customer come back with warped rotors and try to blame it on us.
Update>>>my drums are being replaced as I wrtie this. Stay tuned.

ahasher

I have a crispy-critter relay, a fuse box that has been partially reshaped, from the inside out and a wire or 2 that has a new look to them; A QC in the QC-HOSPITAL and a '01 loaner Durango in the parking garage. I am all for preventative maintenance, based on experience. I want my QC back!

bluebayou

lets take it easy on us beancounters.

We just report the facts, it's up to management to rationalize and implement.

Just remember if costs are cut and controlled, your truck would cost a helluva lot more with no impact on reliablity. Don't forget the people that build the things on the line have a major impact on quality and reliablity.

Just my 2 cents.

Blue

mopar67

Is it on life support?
bluebayou...if paying a little more means better reliability then I'm all for it.

ahasher

for transplant parts so they can perform open-fusebox-surgery. She is resting comfortably in the service bay. I'm sure they are giving her basic treatment, however, nothing like I giver her. I don't believe I'm "cheating", on her with the Durango.. but I expect I'll be back behind the weel sometime tomorrow.

mopar67

turned in 18.8 on Amoco 87 octane.
Probably would have been better had I not sat in construction on 70/270 columbus, 70 outside of wheeling, and 79 by the Corapolis/Mckees Rocks exit.
All in all not too bad.
Amoco will love me this month.

bpeebles

I am still awaiting your answer to my question about your engine Decoupling Capacitors.

mopar67

Getting the drums replaced today, my truck is at the dealer.
Besides, where the hell are those decoupling capacitors?

bpeebles

Look on each side of the engine among the individual spark ignitors. My Dak has black units with electrical connectors. (they are less than one inch square)

The electrical diagram calls these out as being part of the design. They are installed on the engine but the wiring harness does not contain the connectors for them. Several other appenders have also noticed and asked about them. (It must be those $#% beancounters at it again;-) [no offense to anyone]

I hesitate to go through the technical reason for having them in the circuit. I have allready discussed this in past forums in gory detail.

mopar67

Just got call from dealer, truck is ready, no mention of $$$$.
Next question: If indeed these thingamajigs are NOT present, what recommendation do you have? I have not followed the other appends on this issue.

mopar67

you made me lift my hood so here's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Found two connectors on coil numbers 3 and 4. They sit right on top of the stud to where the coil itself mounts. Nothing is connected to them nor did I see any wire connectors close by. So I am still puzzled as to what they are for.
New brake drums=no more bounce=no more dry cleaning bills=a happy camper. That is until they warp again. Then I will visit aftermarket, get a floor jack and just change them out myself.
No charge for the services rendered.
Blood pressure returned to normal.

bpeebles

Yup... you found them. I find it puzzling that they are installed but the wiring harness does not provide connectors to them. As I said, the wiring diagram calls for them to be in the circuit too. Several people ahve observed this on their 4.7L V8 Hemi engine.

If you were observant, you may have seen one of these caps on the right-front fender near the ECU. (Engine Control Unit) This particular one IS wired into the harness.

You ask what decoupling capacitors are used for...
I have already explained this ONCE several months ago. For you mopar67, I will type it all again.

I will make an attempt to explain the rather complicated electronic phenomenon that decoupling capacitors are used to reduce.

There is a +12volt powersupply wire that feeds the top of each cylinder bank. This wire supplies power to the injectors and the spark ignitors. A relay in the relay box controls this +12V feed wire. This is a "safety feature" that allows the ECU to turn off this relay at any time to kill the engine by disabling all injectors and ignitors at once. (can anyone say speed limiter?)

Are you still with me here? We now have a +12V powersupply.

Each of the injectors and ignitors are controlled individually by the ECU by grounding a control wire going to each units coil. (Are you starting to see how important a good ground is here?)

The above basically explains how each injector and ignitor get power and is 'fired' by the ECU.

Now to the "problem"
The +12v powersupply wire should ideally have a constant +12V available to every single injector and ignitor. In reality, as all of these devices are fired, the +12V wire will have spikes on it due to the impedance of the coils within the injectors and ignitors. (Don't even ask me to explain impedance.. this can be an entire collage course in itself)

Now we have voltage spikes (perhaps more than 100 volts) on our +12V supply wire. These spikes only last a few milliseconds but they do exist. If they find their way back to the ECU it will be TOAST. (Solid state devices DO NOT like voltage spikes.)

In comes the decoupling capacitor. These capacitors are wired between the +12V supply wire and a good solid ground. (There is that ^$%$ ground again) Properly speced decoupling caps will "shunt" the voltage spikes safely to ground leaving behind a "clean" +12V.

If you are still with me here.... you are still not qualified to fix your Dakota but you have learned something about electronics.

mopar67

never doubt me again being here with you! ha ha.
Ok I followed you perfectly. Good explanation but I take issue somewhat with your claim "you are still not qualified to fix your Dakota " What do you mean by a comment like that? Perhaps I may not have the intricacies down pat regarding the wiring on a Dakota but I have turned many a wrench in the past on all sorts of vehicles, some more complicated than others. I'd like to think I have a decent understanding of automotive mechanics. Matter of fact, since I have no formal training, I'd say I do a pretty good job understanding whats going on.

bpeebles

Ben,
Please accept my humble apologies. I have no doubt in your wrench-turning abilities. I myself was disassembling carburetors at about the age of 10. (Electronics by age 12)

I only meant to dissuade those that feel ready to start troubleshooting electrical problems or modifying their wiring harness based on my simple explanation. The ECU is not forgiving to mistakes. (and expensive to replace)

ahasher

flowers and get-well cards for my ailing QC may be sent to Lakeshore Dodge in Slidell. She is still patiently (pardon the pun) waiting for a fusebox/wirebundle transplant.

pjm7

WHILE RECENTLY CHANGING THE OIL ON MY NEW O1 QC I NOTICED THERE ARE NO GREASE FITTINGS ON THE BALL JOINTS OR TIE ROD END, HOWEVER THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS TO SERVICE THEM. WAS THERE TO MUCH BLOOD RUSHING TO MY HEAD WHILE LAYING UNDER THE TRUCK OR SERIOUSLY,HAVE THEY BEEN ELIMINATED ??

mopar67

Mine has no fittings either. I suppose they have been eliminated but don't know why.

scottieeck

days, Bruce. I remember being thoroughly schooled in electrical theory, but alas, from lack of use my memory has failed me (z=???). Thank you for a concise, if abridged explanation. Now about those FLUX capacitors . . . Those who nominated you Patriarch have chosen well.
William, good luck with your Dak. I trust you've found a compatible donor.
scottie

scottieeck

Okay, I have a question. sometimes, after starting up, I hear a "chirp" which sounds like it's coming from the engine. the frequency of this chirp does not change with engine speed, as i've tried revving the engine slightly to see if that would have any effect. When running, the chirp disappears, and is not always present when cold. It sounds almost exactly like there is a bird in the engine going "chirp, chirp, chirp".
any ideas?
scottie
(did I say "chirp" enough?)

mopar67

Anyone feel free to add to or disagree with my opinions. This includes you bpeebles!
Strengths:
Robust engine
Eye catching design (I get compliments all the time)
4 wd that works when needed
Good towing and hauling capacity
Nice sounding base radio
AC works as designed, keeps you cool and has ample capacity.
Good design on U-joints (no cardan type, just basic u-jointI'm referring to the driveshaft, no comment on front axle or the shaft coming from xfer case to front axle.)
Decent ride for 4 wheel drive
Can hit 18-19 on hiway if you keep your foot out of it.
Excellent instrument panel display, tells you what you need to know with minimum fuss.
Body hardware and integrity, long a chrysler weakness is much improved over previous Mopar products.
Cruise control actually hold set speed (previous mopars were notorious for dropping 2-5 MPH below your set speed)
Torsion bar front suspension, a chrysler trademark and wonderful design, low unsprung weight and fully adjustable to compensate for wear.
Proven alternator and starter designs (albeit Nippondenso, they do have a good reputation)
Clearly labled engine compartment for normal maintenance items.
Easy to reach climate control but see below
Easy to remove tailgate.
drain holes in bed (moot point if you have a cover or bedliner)
Nice design on spare tire removal. Mounts solidly to underbody, no rattles.

Weaknesses:
Schitzo 45RFE that never seems to know how to shift.
Horrible brakes (used to be a Chrysler strongpoint)warping rotors and drums. I'm speaking in terms of longevity, not stopping power.
Complicated headlight bulb change (must remove entire assembly to change bulb, shame shame)
Lacking some thought on oil changes; filter is nearly impossible to reach with regular filter wrench and drain hole in skidplate does not catch the stream of oil from the pan.
Rack and pinion steering transmits rattles to driver when turning on bumpy surfaces. However, provides good road feel. SO I guess this is neutral.
Splotchy high beam headlight pattern (a common complaint on all Chryslers these days).
Plastic on engine where metal would do fine. Example, oil filler tube which due to its lack of heat conductivity, makes mayo in cold weather. Thanks design department but when I want Mayo, I'll still to Hellmans. An oil cap in the valve cover would work better as would be placing the PCV in valve cover.
Magnesium valve covers which cannot tolerate anything resting on them lest you risk wearing a hole in them. Stampted steel never had this issue.
Annoying and difficult air box cover, must be cocked and moved FORWARD to remove just to check/change your air filter. Which is why I went with K&N to cut down on filter change intervals.
Difficult to change spark plugs; by the way, anyone in design ever give thought to route the heater hoses back towards the firewall thereby making it easider to reach the plugs?
Cheap jack. This is a truck therefore a better and more robust jack is mandatory. Save this jack for the Neon please!
No sight glass for the AC. Must use gauge to read pressure readings. Sight glass provides quick visual check of system charge.
How about separate AC button so I can run compressor in ANY mode rather than panel, windshield, or split between floor and and windshield?
Only recirculation works in panel mode, not in any other HVAC mode. A separate recirc switch would work well here.
Anyone in Auburn Hills reading this?

macey

Under Weaknesses:

Lack of good headresets for both front and rear (QC) seats

AWD Transfer Case - should give traction to the wheel(s) with the most traction, not the ones with the least (still researching this on the 2001 NV244HD)

This one may be isolated to my truck, front doors on the QC don't catch the first indent as easy as the rear doors do.

ahasher

suprising, since they are paying for me to have Durango while I wait. Speaking of the Durango.. did I mention it has the 6 banger? NEVER NEVER NEVER get such a heavy vehicle with that engine; it's Sluggish and not a merging configuration. The mileage is roughly the same or a bit LESS than my poor sick QC's 4.7.

mopar67

May the surgeons take good care of her and my a speedy recovery come sooner for you rather than later.

mopar67

I assume its a family pic?

ahasher

till my poor QC comes home. So I have a question about the alarm, since i seem to have alot of time (when i'm not working) to compare the Durango with the QC. The parking lights flash when the FOB is pressed to lock\unlock. I like the visual feature, so can the QC be set to do this as well? or is it a 01 Durango feature only.. the QC book makes no refrence, of course.

skylerk

My 2001 QC has always had the parking lights flash when I use the remote lock/unlock. Since you have a 2000 QC, maybe it's something they just added for 2001.

kojackusmc

I have a 2000 QC 4wd SLT, and my lights flash when I lock/unlock my doors. I have a dual alarm system. The one factory installed and one the dealer installed when I picked up my truck. Maybe your dealer can do something to the wiring to add this feature for you.

urban3

Just picked up my '01 QC and the parking lights flash twice on unlock and once (along with horn chirp) on lock. The 2001 owners manual does describe these features.

biglucy

Ben, I'm the big guy in the land of little people! That is why, A.- I'm a truckin' kind of guy and B.- I bought the Westin side bars so others could enjoy the smooth QC humm without a stepstool!

- thanks for checking out my website, you must be sick at home, looking for things to do

I better add something "maintenance" here... I'm working on finding a dubious rattle from somewhere in the center of the dashboard!

ahasher

but in the mean time, any other 00 QC owners have the flashing lights?? kojackusmc, you have a 00 but the additional alarm, I wonder if that makes a difference, since my QC does not..hmmm Oh yeah, and thanks for all the replies...

mopar67

How did you bolt them on? Are they tough enough to step on w/o bending? Where did you get them? Quanto cuesta? (how much $$$) Are they difficult to install?
Actually I checked out your website at work. We have a T1 line and I needed that extra speed to download your jpegs. On my dial up, it was just taking way too long but the pics were sharp and clear and really made your QC look sharp!

urban3

OK, it's not just my imagination, my new QC is slightly lower on the right side.

Took a 7FT level, found a dead level section of concrete driveway and took some measurements on the QC. Put the level across the bed, all the way back, and above the wheels, and it measures 5/8" - 3/4" lower on the right.

Put the level across the front windows (lowered) and across the front fenders as close the base of windsheild as possible and it measures 1/2" - 5/8" lower on the right.

Does this matter? Should it be level across the vehicle? It there some sort of settling that occurs over time? It only has 100+ miles.

How could it be leveled out? Shims? Where would they go?

mopar67

for oil filter gurus. According to copyright information, last update was nearly two years ago.

Still, kinda makes me wonder about fram filters! I used them exclusively for years but now I'm not so sure.

http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

stnick

Bill, I just checked my 00 QC for a light flash when locking or unlocking, and there is none. I don,t have the factory alarm either. Only a horn chirp when locks. Stnick

tuvtest

First, by the "right side" I assume you mean the passenger side.

This explaination may sound silly, but....

Try putting 200 lbs in the drivers seat. Then re-measure. I have had this issue before on other vehicles, and the way it was expalined to me (Not by lazy dealer, but a "older-than-dirt" suspension mechanic). The height is often set to allow level driving with the driver in place. Therefore what is level with driver in place, is not when the seat is empty.

bpeebles

The suggestion by tuvtest should also include a FULL TANK OF GAS. (which happens to be on the DRIVERS side of the vehicle)

Any adjustments to the "levelness" of a vehicle usually include "prerequisites" of ALL fluids full and the drivers weight in the proper place. The measurements need to be taken from the ground to specific points on the FRAME. Do not forget that the BODY is rubber-mounted and may not be EXACTLY level even if the FRAME is level.

To answer your question. The torson-bar front suspension is fully adjustable with wrench. Each front wheel height is adjustable. The rear is a solid axle. If this is incorrect... There is a major problem.

Please refer to BOB for specifications.

floridaqc

I have a 00' Dakota 2wd QC and I had noticed a slight vibration during braking, but after traveling through the Smokies, the vibration has gotten much worse. I checked the brake pads and they are not sitting flat on the rotors (not touching the outside of the rotor), which I have never seen before. Is this a problem more serious than just warped rotors? I have 19k on the truck now, which is out of warrantee, but could this problem be covered in some other way?
HELP!

mopar67

my guess is warped rotors. Seems to be a weakness on dakotas. I have had mine replaced twice in the last 16K and when they warp again,(not IF but when) I am going to aftermarket units.