Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

shawnh2

Club Cab, 3.9 Auto, ID Service, PT, Sport, Plus, etc... Very happy with the truck so far. At least the 80 miles on the do this far. However, one problem already. After the truck sat all night I had a drop of oil on the garage floor. Kind of takes the excitement out of owning a 18 hour old truck. Anyway, off to the dealer in the morning on Wednesday. I expect (hope) that it is a loose drain plug or oil filter. Anyone else ever leak oil from their new truck or am I the only one??

Sawn

shawnh2

The previous was my first post. I guess I was excited. Anyway, HD Service, Tow Package (TP), FLAME RED. Any maintenance tips would be appreciated. I want (hope) this truck lasts.

Shawn

saskquad

OHC Baby - Have you found out anymore about the speed limiter (who has it and who doesn't ) or how to disable it easily (cheaply)?

Maybe this offset axle and leaning front end is designed for oval track racing . Just maybe.

fvracer

The most common use of torsion bars, currently, is for the front suspension of 4X4 trucks. Most, not all, use torsion bars because the axles go through the area the spring usually occupies. 2WD Dakotas use a regular coil spring front suspension. Old Volkswagen Beetles and Porsches used torsions bar suspension front and rear.

waynesan

I'm planning to change my fluid and filter for the first time on my 2001. I purchased a filter and trans gasket when I bought my truck. Now I read in the BOB that in addition I need a "new oil filter seal" which must be placed on the bottom of the oil pump, "not onto the oil filter first and then onto the oil pump." Can anyone en-lighten me about this procedure? Also, the BOB states: "place a bead of Mopar RTV sealant onto the transmission case sealing surface." Then why did the parts guy sell me the trans gasket?
Thanks in advance if you can provide any guidance.

urban3

Bpeebles - Thanks for the info. I must confess I used a clean towel to dry off the rig. I know, I've failed, but I do learn from my mistakes.

Obviously I will be checking out the websites you suggested. Any thoughts on the minor "scratches" on the windshield I mentioned?

Saskquad - I must have inadvertently the Oval Track Racing Handling Group.

bpeebles

(waynesan) It is good to see that somone is actually trying to follow the recommended PM schedule for the 45RFE.

This is one reason why I did not get the 45RFE xmission. Not only does it cost nearly $1000 to purchase it... it will cost $$ if one changes the fluid, filters and gaskets as often as DC recommends.... and if one DOES NOT change the fluid that often..... it will surely die an early death.

Besides.... The manual xmission is FUN to drive and is LOW maintenance.

mopar67

my sentiments exactly. Five spped for me next time.

iowabigguy

I've agreed with this in the past, now I don't know. We currently have a 2k Quad, 2 99 Neons 2dr w/2.0l dohc and a 95 Nissan Altima SE ALL with 5 speed transmissions. Since Nissan is coming out with a new Altima which has more power than the current Maxima we have been considering getting a new Maxima SE 5 speed during the end of year model changeover. There should be some deep discounting but we probably won't if what I've read in the Maxima owners groups is true. There are serious drive ability problems with the drive by wire and emission controls present in the 5 speed models that have not been cured in either the 2000 or 2001 models. I've also seen some indications based on the complaints that Nissan is not alone with this problem. I wonder if we won't see the day where the only transmission available is an automatic because of ever tightening emissions requirements. What a sad thought. Rick

biglucy

I will have to be first to vote "Automatic". Yes, snicker if you must, but after driving a manual in city traffic for too many years, I decided to give my clutch foot and right arm a brake . YES, a manual is more fun to drive, but now I can drink my coffee and let biglucy do the shifting!

Shawn - I have a maintenance tip for you... buy a garage or carport!!! This truck, by far, has been the toughest to keep clean! Too much wiping and waxing for someone who is to lazy to drive a stick :]

Tips for washing your windows --> never used ammonia based window cleaner on tinted windows. Also, ink newspaper as a rag works the best with window cleaner, try it you'll like it!

I'm driving around with the tailgate off!! The PCM is alittle confused right now!, but I'm getting much better pickup with less drag. I'll let you know if gas mileage changes substantially.

mopar67

I too picked the auto route after driving my dads trucks for years all of which were three on a tree or four on the floor.
I did not realize just how quirky the 45RFE would be. I figured that Chryslers stellar reputation in RWD autos would carry over in the new millenium. Not so it seems. Never have I driven an automatic that shifts so harshly and simply refuses to develop a proper shift pattern. Its overbuilt, needlessly complex (I read the BOB) and maintenance intensive.
Like bpeebles said, save a grand, and exercise your left foot. If there's one and only one thing I would change, I would wish for a five speed and tell Chrysler to take their automatic and stick it where..........you know the rest.
Next time I won't make this mistake.

billarf

Have an '01 Quad cab. Today it's about 90 degrees out. Stopped the truck and I hear water hitting exhaust pipe and sizzling, splatter , sizzle. I'm assumimg this water is from the air conditioner and dropping on the exhaust? Funny place DC has the water drops going??
Bill in NY

mopar67

condensate from the AC. No worries.

urban3

Checked out maybe half the zymol web site as recommended. Will complete the "course" (the rest of the website) ASAP. I sense more $$$ to be spent again.

Still working on minor windshield "scratches". It was suggested that maybe they were wax streaks and I should try a more HD cleaner such as Simple Green. I did and they didn't come out. I guess they really are scratches and I'm stuck. #$%@!!

The thing is I'm so happy with the overall form and function of my QC it hard to get too bogged down in a few imperfections. Overall it came from the factory in good shape, it's mine and I sure enjoy driving it.

bpeebles

I was in at the dealers yesterday having my porkupine-nibbled hoses replaced. I perused over to their "library" of shop manuals for ALL of the Dodge vehicles.I noticed that each model year is denoted by a different color on the cover.

As we all know, the year 2000 is bright orange.... thus the name BOB.

The year 2001 has a dark blue-green cover for all Dodge shop manuals. I guess we cannot use the name BOB for anything except the 2000 manual.

mopar67

greeno

ANybody else have experienced a mild clunking noise in the front driver or passenger front wheel area when making turns and hitting bumps in the road at the same time??? There is a TSB on this problema and wondering if anybody else is having it. I have a 2000 DAK with 4.7L and full time 4WD, auto tranny. Thanks.

zippee

Hello everyone!

I'll be picking up my brand new dakota club cab 4x4 tomorrow. It's got the 4.7L and it's the new graphite color, I love it.

Anyhow, just wondering if anyone has any good break in tips for her, she's got only a few miles so I want to do it right.

Thanks

kayaker3

Ok I am wanting to do my own oil changes for now on and I have been going to the quick lube places and they get oil all over the place. I have a 01 Quad with a 4.7 2wd. and 7800 miles on it.Ive been having the place put in Castrol 5w30 and they use penzoil oil filters. I was thinking it is safe to go ahead and try synthetic 5w30 with that amount of miles on it now? If I use that type of oil and Ive heard that you could go over 3000 miles on it do you guys leave the oil filter in that long too. Also what type of filter is everybody using?
Thanks,
Paul

mopar67

but after reading the minimopar oil filter study and a testimonial by a former allied-signal engineer (aftermarket division) I went back to Purolator. I've heard positive comments about AC.
According to the site, the pennzoil filter is a Fram filter painted yellow instead of orange.
Even with sythentic, I sill go 3500-4000K oil changes. I use Mobil1 5W30. And yes, the filter gets changed also.

Greeno>>>>>I don't have a clunk but a click during slow parking lot maneuvers with light brake application. Sounds like brake pad shifting in caliper. No vibrations though.

bpeebles

(kayaker3) Please review the oilfilterstudy online so you can decide for yourself about the specific brand you want to use.

As for HOW LONG to go between oil changes...

The 3000-mile oil change is a myth. It is promoted by people who get GET PAID to change your oil.

Read your owners manual on recommended oil-change intervals. These recommendations MUST be followed to maintain your warrantee inforce. After that... you can decide for yourself what is best for your driving habits and weather conditions. I can tell you personally that the 7500 interval has worked out fine for over 100,000 miles in EVERY VEHICLE I HAVE OWNED. Certainly anything less that 4000 is wasting your $$ and time.

Keep in mind that I am not just a casual observer... I have been INSIDE engines for about 30 years and KNOW what I am talking about.

kayaker3

Do you also leave your filter in for 7500 miles? If so what brand do you use.Just trying to gain some knowledge. And this seems to be the place to get it.
Paul.

mopar67

bpeebles don't you find it a bit crowded in there?Not to mention the heat and by products of combustion?

captcrunch

It's not the heat, it's the reciprocity!

mopar67

exactly!

99slt

It seems I only log on when I need help. 99 SLT RC 34,800 miles. Started the truck this morning and BANG. Under the hood is an exploded battery. It's the original "maintenance free" type battery.

No 1: What could have caused it?
No 2: Has this happened to anyone?
No 3: I know I'm covered under warantee, but what about the rest of the electrical system. Could damage have occurred?

I'm calling the dealer first thing Monday morning. I'd very much appreciate this board's input. Thanks in advance.

urban3

After studying recommended web info, I was able to achieve a big improvement in some washing and window cleaning basics. I washed my Dak with better tools, products and techniques and it took 1/2 as long as it did last week. And I got much better results with no pesky water spots.

While I have a long way before passing appearance care 101, I think I pased my first test. You can see it in the results.

Thanks for the help.

saskquad

The first thing you need worry about is the corrosion under the hood of the paint and anything the acid got onto. It may be a little late but I would suggest you wash it down with some baking soda and water to neutralize the acid . As far as the wiring goes it it may cause some corrosion also where it was soaked by battery acid.
The cause may be an internal short in the battery or a loose cable causing arcing or sparks.

This is fairly uncommon and usually only happens when boosting improperly.

bpeebles

(99slt)To answer your 1'st question;
What could have caused it?

Under normal conditions, a lead-acid battery produces HYDROGEN GAS while it is charging. (This is HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE...Think HINDENBURG) Normally, the gas is released in very small amounts, it is controlled by the special vented caps on the battery and quickly dissapates beacuse it is lighter than air so it 'leaks up' around the edges of the hood. INSIDE THE BATTERY IS COMPLETY FULL OF HYDROGEN GAS ABOVE THE ACID AT ALL TIMES!

If the conditions are exactly right... any stray spark such as from a relay picking or the starter motor might ignite the hydrogen gas within the battery and BOOM... there is your answer.

Your concern now is echoed in the wordy of saskquad. The sulpheric acid splashed under the hood may cause all kinds of problems for years. Copious amounts of hosing off followed by baking soda might help.

99slt

Thanks saskquad and bpeebles for your responses. I did remove the battery and placed all the parts for the dealer's inspection in a box and then washed down the area with baking soda solution. I had the Dakota towed to the dealer this morning. The tech looked at me disbelievingly (I just know he thought I jump started someone)until I showed him the torn hood insulation and the disintegrated engine compartment light where the explosion occurred above the battery. Sure enough the mechanic discovered that the bar that surrounds both sides of the inner battery chambers showed signs of numerous fractures. He explained (just as bpeebles did)a spark within the battery over these cracks ignited the explosion. All is covered by D/C, including the tow. They're waiting for a top hold down battery harness and I'll pick the truck up tomorrow.
My question to the tech was: Will corporate be advised of this failure? He said YES, but this was a very rare circumstance. I told him that I was going to pass the word anyway.

blubelle

I had a 90 Dakota SLT Club Cab which came form the factory with a Sealed battery,I think it was a Delco, which blew up one morning when I hit the starter. Heck of a noise but didn't really damage anything. I washed it down with baking soda solution and all was well. It was out of warranty so I replaced it with a regular non-sealed battey. I asked the battery shop if this was a common problem with sealed batteries and he said NO. He indicated he has seen more blown batteries of the non-sealed type. Well I raised a eyebrow when I saw my new 01 Quad with a monster sealed battery! Oh well I don't start it up with my head in the engine compartment anyway. By the way that was the first blown battery I have experienced in over 50 years of driving and I hope my last.

ron35

I have a 2000 Dak which is 18 months old and have a question. When switching from Normal A/C to Max A/C I have always noticed an increase in fan or blower noise. This is not only true on my Dak but every vehicle that I can remember owning which has had A/C. Lately I've noticed that there is no difference in noise level when I make this switch; I realize that when you make this switch you are going from outside air to recirculating inside air. I have gone to my local 5 star dealer who claims to have done a diagnostic and says that the door admitting and restricting outside air is working properly. The A/C cools great on either setting but I can't understand why the noise level which used to change no longer does. Can anyone address this?

Ron35

zonk

I have a '01 QC Sport (4.7L,auto,2wd). My question is that the ac blower does not seem to put out as much air as other vehicles I have driven. Even my wife's JGC seems to put out more air. What do the rest of y'all have to say on this subject?

mopar67

in hot weather, I almost have to run the fan on the second position for good airflow...why its like this Idon't know..maybe customers were complaining of drafts?
bpeebles? Ahasher?
Thats a good question you have. I can only guess as to why.

henne

funny this is coming up. i now have a 2001 since dodge bought my 2000 quad back and the new a/c is terrible. it barely blows air and the far outside vents near the windows only blow about half the air as the center ones. every 2001 ive seen does this and I AM NOT IMPRESSED!!!! it takes along time to cool down and the back seat passengers put the windows down because they hardly get any air back there.

ron35, when i switch between outside and inside there is a big difference in air and noise. but its funny when its on outside air and the a/c turned off i get no air at all, every vehicle i have ever owned had air coming through when the vehicle was moving hence the name VENT.

robert

ahasher

my 00 also has "low" airflow in the first position. The second is unusually louder but provides what I would normally want as a "first" position airflow. However, in all positions, I have no complaints as to it being cold. Probably goes with the genius who mislabeled the A/C position to confuse us to which is A/C and which is not A/C positions .

macey

Agree, I have a 2001 DAK QC (believe it has a different A/C function button and vents -vs- the 2000s).

I also feel it has poor performance...always in the 2nd fan position at least, recirculating inside air does indeed make a much louder noise...still trying to see of this makes it colder in the cab.

I've seen pictures of insulated A/C lines, perhaps this would help?

mopar67

does not have the same cooling capacity as R-12. ALso, I think Dodge cut down on the size of the evaporator due to packaging concerns and that will certainly affect performance.
One thing I do religiously is keep the condensor clean as can be, it only takes a little dirt, bugs leaves etc to interfere with heat transfer and thus reduce Ac performance.
I've driven other 90's vehicles and I seem to notice airflow on the lowest postion on fan setting seems barely adequate.....anyone have a reason for this?

urban3

I have an 01 and the AC seems to work fine, though the small vents on either end of the dash do seem weak.

When you're talking about positions, is position 1 the farthest to the left (counter clockwise) which I take as blower OFF? Or is position 1 the first ON position (2nd actual position)? Just to be clear.

mopar67 - Ordered the FSM today. $99 plus tax or shipping or whatever. Asked and was told there is a 2001 version, not just a 2000 with an 01 supplement. So hopefully I'll get the right one.

mopar67

Hope you will find it helpful... I did mine.

urban3

I answered my own question about blower control positions. The owners manual refers to "one of four positions" and there are 4 white dividers on the control. But there is also an off position for a total of 5 stops on the control.

So I'd say that's 1-4 ON and whatever (0) for the OFF position. Anyway, the point is I now know exactly what you mean that it has to be in 2 or higher to do anything. Position 1; the air drifts in barely noticable. Position 2 is the first setting where the air is moving with some purpose.

Another major variable is which vents are opened or closed. The main force of air in my 01 is coming through the vents between the steering wheel and the center of the dash (radio & climate controls). With both these vents open, there is little or no air flow through vents on the ends of the dash at all but the highest blower speeds. With these vents (between steering wheel and controls) partially or totally closed, the air flow out of all other vents is improved.

Even with the vents between the steering wheel and controls closed, air still "pours" out of them at the higher speeds.

Bottom line: It seemed liked with a little experimenting I could get air flowing where I wanted; front seats, sides, & up through the middle to the back. I know some may say well you shouldn't have to fuss around with the vents so much and you're probably right. This is just feedback to help find ways to get it to work for you.

BTW, my 1990 station wagon has an "OFF" and "VENT" position on the mode control. If switched to vent, and the blower is in the lowest setting, I believe outside air comes in relative to vehicle speed.

bpeebles

I guess the only thing I can add to this discussion is that the plenums are part of the dash board. (molded right into it!) Given this, It is quite possible that the 2001 dash has vastly different airflow characteristics than the 2000 dash.

My 2000 blows all kinds of cold air when I want it to. I use all of the various fan-speed settings given differing conditions. Bear in mind that my HEATER is used for over 4 months of the year... the low fan speed is great to maintain an undetectable flow of fresh air.

sneddren

Greeno

I also have a 2000 Dak 4x4 4.7 auto and I definitely have the clunking problem. Anytime I go over a bump at anything other than a crawl there is a clunk/squeak from the front end. There's also a lot of rattling that goes on in the front end, it's pretty annoying. If there is a tech bulletin, I'd like to know the details.

bja4

Has anyone tried a new throttle body for the 4.7L from Hughesengines? If so, how does it perform?

slickwilliedj

the popping noise i'm refering to usually occurs while turning and applying the brakes not just jerking the wheel from side to side without brakes applied.several of us her are experiencing this problem and there are several tsbs concerning it.do think this noise could be coming from a brake componet or suspension?also what about the truck leaning to one side also others have reported this problem. i already had the dealer replace the left front shock and spring assem(mine leans to the left) but that didnot chg anything but my heart rate. so there's beeen some talk from urban3 about the rear leaf springs being the source of this leaning problem.are there any adjustment that can be made to the leaf springs?.

bpeebles

It is interesting that the front brakes seem to be involved with the "popping" sound. This is new information and brings up some more possibilities as for the cause of the sound. I sure wish I could see/hear/feel/touch...whatever it takes to encounter this sound. The diagnosis would be a bit easier.

As for you question about "adjustments" on the rear leaf springs. The simple answer is NO
There are no adjustments. Everything is solid steel that is bolted into place. There is no means of "adjusting" anything in the rear.

With that said, Leaf springs can be removed and "re arched" using a huge machine that bends the springs. Spring shops have these machines. This process is labor-intensive and often the spring-steel used for the springs has "memory" and quickly un-arches back to the original shape.
This is not something you want to consider!

Other folks install "shims" between the axle and the leaf springs to change the ride height... I have never heard of this being used to "adjust" one side.

I will ask again... Has anyone actually looked in the service manual and actually MEASURED using the factory procedure? There are very specific procedures as to where to measure and what to expect within factory tolerances. It is either IN or OUT of tolerance!

This would quickly isolate the source of the ride-height concern without GUESSING?!!? about it.

mopar67

not directly related to your post but something to consider.
On straight axle trucks back in the old days (before my time) one could adjust the caster by inserting shims either on the front side or the back side of the spring pad to change the caster angle from pos to neg or vice versa.
I know this is a cold hard fact of reality since it was done on my Fathers International.

shawnh2

I picked up my Dakota about two weeks ago. I am planning on changing the oil the first time at 1,000 miles. The second change at 3,000 miles and then every 3,000 thereafter. Is changing the first time at about 1,000 miles overkill? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Shawn

mopar67

what? YOu spend 20 bucks you didn't have to. I feel that with the tight manufacturing tolerances in todays engines, you'll get some degree of metal shavings as the bearings, pistons, etc wear into one another..some of that will get caught be the filter, some will go to the bottom of the oil pan.
My dad has always done exaclty what you are doing. I did the same thing and it was a good call because I do a lot of in town driving.

ole3

Question:

I have a 2001 Dakota QC 4x4. I live in So.Cal and my truck is driven 1-4 times a week
(around 25-50 miles each time).

Whenever I switch from AC to normal Air, and particularly after
using the AC, I get a nasty rotten stink from the blower vents.
(it is there for a moment when AC is first turned on, and after
blower has ran for a while without AC on, the smell is gone)

Any idea what would be causing this ?

Can I fix this problem myself ?

If I have to take it in to the dealer, any idea what they would do
to fix the problem ?

Thank You All !

Ole