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Comments
Otherwise you'll have to go with the disinfectant flush of the air duct system.
I've got stinky A/C too. I think I figured out that since my driveway is uphill, my condensation is not draining, encouraging molds to grow. After parking my truck uphill and letting it sit overnight, I turned it around real quick with out turning on the A/C and viola, condensation starts dripping. Something to think about. Maybe someone with a '01 service manual could look a the path the condensation needs to take to drain.
The service manager did a 2 second diagnosis when I described the situation and did not measure anything. But I will.
Another question. You mentioned you "re-secure" (for lack of a better term) electrical connections and connectors. Are there, say, 5-10 top ones you suggest to hit? Since I don't have the service manual, I've just been looking around to find them. Also, would dielectric grease be of any help in preventing connector corrosion?
One at a time, I unbolted each connector from the frame and SOLDERD the wire to the crimpon connector. Certanily dielectric grease would not hurt when re-bolting these to the frame/chassis.
Keep in mind that I tend to own my rigs for over 10 years. Here in Vermont, the winter salt attacks the whimpy crimpon connections and causes all kinds of electrical problems. The act of SOLDERING them fills all of the voids with solid metal that keeps out the salt spray that gets into every nook and cranny.
If you recall the "ticking" problem that the dealers were fixing by 'adjusting' a specific ground connection under the hood.... this is what encauraged me to perform the above procedure.
And here in northern Illinois, road salt is a problem for several months as well.
mopar67 - As you noted the 2001 BOB is green (or shade thereof) in color.
4x2 frame side view measurements (in millimeters):
* Top side of frame most forward: 693
* Center line I take as between between the mounting holes of lower control arm: 410.1
* Hole inside of forward body mount: 440.0
* Top side of forward body mount: 459.9
* Bottom side of frame, aft of forward body mount, between 2 protrusions: 377.8
* Seam between forward and middle section of frame, under drivers door: 377.6
* Top side of rear body mount: 493.5
* Center of hole I take as forward rear spring mount: 381.7
* Center of hole where aft frame section is connected to middle frame section: 600.0
* Center of aft rear spring mount: 603.2
* Top side of frame most aft: 716.5
Qualification: This is my interpretation of the diagram. In some cases, it's a little difficult to tell the exact location to which the drawing is referring, i.e.; the center of a hole or the bottom. But it should give an idea of where to look and what the measurement should be.
Here is the procedure from page 2-3 of the real BOB. This is, of course, for the 4X4 that has the adjustable front suspension.
1) Inspect tires for correct size and pressure
2)Jounce front of vehicle
3)Measure and record the distance between the ground and the center of the lower suspension arm rear mounting bolt head.
4) Measure and record the distancebetweent he ground and the center of the front wheel.
5) Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The difference between the two measurements should be 47mm (1.85") +/-3.25mm (0.125").
Always make adjustments to the torsion bar UPWARDS... ie.. if it is too high... you must lower BELOW the proper height and adjust up from there.
Your qualifications about tires and frame bending are duely noted. This may explain why I couldn't hit the specs anywhere. But it still seems the measurements are not the same from side to side using the specific measuring points.
slickwilliedj - As Bpeebles points out, yes that's a lot of data regarding frame measurements. Please be advised, I'm not a technician. Data alone without further info probably isn't of much use.
The 2k1 book has been referred to as Teal in color so it would be BTB. ;>}
JimH
bpeebles (and others) has made it pretty clear to check specific measurements and not to guess about it. slickwilliedj asked if anyone with a service manual could look it up. So I did.
I now gather that there are certain procedures along with the measurements, not mention looking in the correct section of the manual. Since I'm not a service technician, I guess I better stick to asking the questions instead of trying to answer them.
Big ORANGE Book My technical nature told be to specify both the PAGE# and actual book I was refering to... that is all I meant.
(urban3) Please accept my apologies... Your TEAL book is just not a BOB ;-) Your input is very welcome, I know you must have spent a lot of time typing that all in. We appreceate your efforts. (besides... some math against your numbers may be valuable to)
BTW... In what section of the BTB did you find all of those measurements... In the BODY section?
I live on the Gulf Coast; lots of heat and humidity. After about 15 minutes of run time, my A/C gets a musky odor when it is in the recirculating air mode. It usually clears up in a few minutes if I switch up to "outside" air mode.
A few months ago, the Dodge Service Tech said that, (surprise), this is "normal" for the recirculating mode. He told me to spray a disinfecting deoderant in the intake UNDER the DASH near the floor on the PASSENGER side while the A/C fan is on max; to draw in as much air as possible. Works great for about an hour. Then, it's back to the stinky A/C! So, when it starts to stink, I switch to "outside" air for a while to clear it up. But, hey, that's no fun!
I'm taking my QC in to the dealer tomorrow to check the front end noise (popping/creaking on right front while making slow right turns). I'll ask the service manager his take on the stinky A/C problem while I'm there.
I'll keep you posted.
GATOR72
You mentioned measuring from the frame a few times, so I looked for "frame" in the manual. Pages 13-8 to 13-10 have the dimensions for 4x2 & 4x4. The side view dimensions are only to a line in space. There's no mention of tire or wheel size.
In reading the section again, I noticed these terms, but do not know what they refer to. Any comments from the group?
The purpose of box-section front rails, dropped center section, and open-channel side rails?
The purpose of mass dampener on the QC and what are NVH issues?
"Dropped center section" allows a lower 'floor' for the passenger compartment with less 'humps' in it.
"Mass Dampener" to reduce certain vibrations and create a quieter passenger compartment.
"NVH" I forgot... It is an acronym....let's guess at something "Normal Vehicle Holes", "Natural Volume History", "Nominal Viscous Handling", "Nice Voluptuous...no wait, not that either;-)
Perhaps somone else remembers NVH...
By The Way - could you draw Mickey Mouse for bookitty????
Bookitty
However, I have noted one thing I sort of expected. The engine seems to have entered the "learning" curve again after the fix. I noticed the same conditions as when I first got it.. No problem though, it seems to be settling or "learning" my driving conditions quickly.
So overall; a happy QC, Even with a fuse box transplant ;-)
Only problem to date on my DAK QC with 1400 miles.
Thanks.
I assume you have the 45RFE? Mine has done it since day one; as a matter of fact, most all MOPAR automatics make the buzzz tick sound when going from park to Reverse or drive or from drive to reverse and vice versa.
A bit weird but totally normal sound.
AHASHER?>>>>>>>rock on.. its great to have a good idle isn't it.. I kinda get to work on time more these days since I don't have to let the silly thing cough and sputter in the morning.
As you stated, I hope this fix works both summer AND Winter.
BTW, don't hear the wind noise from my auto-vent shades anymore due to z-tube and flowmaster catback install, now thats a way to fix a 'noise' problem...sweet!
Shawn
A good way to process of elimination is like you said, try different gas from a different station.
You would be surprised at how little water or other contaminants would affect start/idle quality.
And while we're on the subject of gas my advice is to stay away from the Happy Jack Cut Rate Gas places which are so common these days. I'm not suggesting you are going to those outfits but if you are, change your ways!
I never could understand in all my years how someone would plunk down big bucks for a new vehicle then drive to the cheapest place they find for gas. I remember the Thorntons station in front of my old Kmart store happily selling gas for 10-20 cents cheaper than anyplace else. We had a good customer who, each winter, would come in and buy Christy's dry gas by the case! And when we were out of that, he'd buy HEET by the case as well. And during the summer, he'd load up on STP gas treatment. One day I casualy asked where he was buying his gas.
His enthusiastic reply "Hell, I go to Thorntons! Its just as good as all the others, its all the same anyway, and I ain't gonna pay for that high priced Shell stuff. Been goin' to Thorntons for 20 years now and never had a problem!"
Needless to say, we exceeded our sales goals in gas additives week after week, month after month due to this guy. WOnder if he ever did any math?
SOmething to consider...............
mopar67, ahasher - What is your idle at now that it has been corrected? I have the 4.7 auto also and it seems to be running fine. It idles at about 550-600 once it has been running for a minute or two. Just curious.
No more stalls...thank god!
That said, do you hear this 'squeeling' all the time or only under certain conditions? (accelleration, startup, AC on/off, hot, cold....etc)
anybody know where the relays go? i paid someone to put my controller on my 2000 quad so im not sure if this one is different or not. i got the 7-4, and the pigtail in the glove box on my 2000 but no relays. are the relays new for 2001?
anybody have any answers?
thanks,
robert
I have a 1998 Club Cab with 16k miles. Last week the truck died on the side of the road. To make a long story short I ran out of gas. The gas gage still said I had more than 1/4 tank. The trip computer said I had 40+ more miles to go, the low fuel warning was not on and the chime had not sounded. All cockpit indications said I had plenty of fuel!
When I filled the truck up the gage went over full to 5/4 or so.
Anywho... Has anyone had this problem? What is the fix? I will dig into the BOB (mine is green) to see how the system works. I hope it is a bad ground or something easy.
Drive Safe,
Joe
thanks for your help.
robert
I'm going to ask the dealer about this, but any more specifics on exactly what the tow package needs or included would be appreciated.
(2) Twice in the 1st 1000 miles the factory security alarm has been tripped, apparently without cause. And it failed to exit alarm mode according to the owner's manual procedure. Any ideas why it would have gone off by itself and why it wouldn't disarm? I still have to look at the service manual.
Thanks.
Forget the details, but let's just say that both times the alarm "went off on its own", the key fob was in my pocket with a bunch of other stuff and while loading stuff into the vehicle.
Possible moral of the story: Keep these electronic thing-a-m'fobs by themselves. Or, press the Panic button a couple of time if your alarm won't shut off.
bpeebles?
Remember that only the "30" in that designation is for engine operating temperature. (The "5" reflects the low temperature characteristics of the lubricant)
Many automobile manufacturers have been calling for 5w30 for several years. (GM, VW, DC...etc)
Back in the late 70s, the 10w30 was commonly recommended. (This means the 1960's-designed engines that make up DCs other truck engines.... 2.5L, 3.9L and 5.9L)
Either grade is fine for the summer as mopar67 suggests. For towing and >100F, the 10w30 may be more suitable.
If you stick with MOBIL1, your engine will not know the difference anyway. ;-)
btw.. still considering my next enhancement/accessory to make up for that aborted camping trip with the QC. :-)