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Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications
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Comments
Ron
There is a Costco store within 15 miles. What other tires did they have (31x10.5-15)? Might be worth joining.
They were listed on the Dakota invoice as "on road/off road" tire.
Regards,
Dusty
Costco has LIFETIME balance&rotation included in the price! The xtra $20 per tire is easilly paid back after 4 balance-rotation cycles. (Dont just take my word for it, just call your favorate shop and ask how much a balance-rotate costs)
Personally, I am leaning twards the Costco brand (made by Michelin) tires. Dont forget to ask about the other tires they can order for you. They all get the LIFETIME balance&rotation 8-)
Thanks-
Thanks
Tom.
Due to temporary problems with our other vehicles, I was basically running a "bus service" for two family members, which meant I was out at all hours and in all conditions. These Revo's (31x10.5-15) have given me excellent traction in both 2WD and 4WD situations.
I'll post my impressions on noise levels once it warms up and I can have the windows open but it doesn't seem annoying at this point. 29 yrs of industrial noise exposure might be tainting my impressions though.
Over the last two years, I have talked to Chrysler 800-number and various dealers and eventually gave up on a OEM solution (apparently the wiring harness is different in the USA trucks and the Canadian DRL modules aren't available in the USA). I eventually started working with a Canadian manufacturer by the name of Hamsar to apply their products to achieve Mopar's Canadian version of DRL, which operates the low-beams at about 75% power when the engine is running. I have no doubt that Hamsar produces quality DRL modules and the factory techs were always helpful but it just didn't work out. Their units would last from a week to as much as one year before failing. Hamsar would never share their design specs so that I could construct a "heavier wattage" version of their unit but still utilize the original module plug/pin/socket set-up. All of their electronics are embedded in a mass of black epoxy so it's impossible to successfully dissect and learn much. A smarter and more determined person (not me) could design a workable replacement, I suppose.
After cleaning up my account with the USA vendor and saying my farewells to the Canadian manufacturer reps, I left my "dream" alone for several months and focused on the more pressing family issues. I recently started up on it again, but the latest internet search and round of phone calls was unsuccessful.
I then decided to use what I already had. I rewired my aftermarket foglights (on/off power to the foglight relay) into the truck's HVAC circuit that is "hot" only when the key is in the "run" position. As long as I have the fogs' main switch in the "on" position, the fogs now turn on and off with the engine turning on and off. I do not have the fogs' circuit wired through the parking brake which would automatically cut off the fogs' power when the brake is applied while the engine is running. To achieve this, I just have to reach to the dashboard and turn off the fogs with their original main on/off switch (can see the switch on my webpage photos). I'll also need to manually turn off the fogs when I need to go to the headlights at night/fog/active highway construction zones.
It's not perfect, but for now it provides the "automatic" increased visibility during day light hours that I wanted to achieve. I guess others with the OEM fogs could change their wiring to get the same effect but it would be much better if one (in the USA) could just install the Canadian Mopar DRL module (~$100) on a "universal" wiring harness and be done with it.
Line-X was $425, Rhino was $440, Dupli-Color was about $100 (had to buy individual components), and Herculiner starter kit was $85. If thick is good, then Rhino was the best. Line-X was two steps down from that. The Herculiner sample seemed thin but I guess you could put on a third or forth coat and if you have more time than money it might be the way to go. Dupli-color is a complete unknown since there were no samples to gauge the final product but they had plenty of spray cans to fix scraps, etc. as opposed to returning to the applicator to fix a cut, scrap, etc. in a Rhino or Line-X coating.
Rhino would coat the quarter panels for an additional $20-$40. The black would probably go with the gray paint job (Lt. Driftwood on a '00 QC). Even with mud flaps, stone scaring is starting to appear. The open tread on the Bridgestone AT Revos lifts a few.
Anybody ever try the Herculiner? I've got the time but not $400+ bucks.
I realized early on that our friends to the north (Canada) must have a different wiring harness to accept the OEM module to activate the required DRL feature. I pursued aftermarket options that used their own wiring rather than splice into anything major on the truck (did need to splice into wires going to one headlight). This arrangement failed and therefore I utilized my aftermarket foglights (not hooked into the main light switch) to give me the desired daytime forward lighting.
I haven't thought about any other solution(s) since. I really don't know if there have been wiring changes between years. I only have a BOB for the 2000 Dak.
securely. The only drawback, is that it does restrict
the height of any cargo you wish to transport. The bracket clamps to the lip of the bed, and is quite secure. A bit pricey, but I feel that it is worthwhile. http://www.4are.com/
Bookitty
Bookitty, Nice to see you survived the hurricane. It must have gone right through your front door!!! I live in Homestead so I know the feeling.
Regards, Dick
roof department. A tree crashed on it, and our soffits , gutters and downspouts are no more. We were
in our beach house in NJ, and think we saw some of our new landscaping blow by. Our neighbor/friend moved to Punta Gorda from Miami, where they were totalled by "Andrew." So I'm sure that you know the feeling. As a matter of fact, there were no hurricanes here in over 80 years, and now we had 3. It must be Tom, our neighbor/friend. he's probably a "hurricane magnet!"
Regards,
Norm (Bookitty)
If I get another one, I want a soft tonneau on a flip-up frame: 1.) I like to have the bed covered and a flip-up gives you better access to the bed, 2.)seems like the gas mileage should be better with it on but I've never run any test to know if it's true, 3.) a soft top is easy to get out of the way when you have to haul that unexpected item, 4.) when you're all done hauling and it's the middle of winter you can bring the flip-up type into a warm area to re-snap it back on the frame, 5.) after it's all snapped up you can take the whole frame back out to the truck and reattach it to the hinge.
My experiences and opinion
Regards,
Norm (Bookitty)
Look at the Dakota Tools page at my site:
http://home.pipeline.com/~dhornung45
My concern about your design is that the kayak/canoe will hang out behind the truck WAY too much. Do you know if there is a legal limit as to how far cargo can overhang the rear of the vehicle?
Isn't like store-bought but it works. Currently, it's all scratched up and muddy from use.
So far the cops / game wardens in south central PA haven't mentioned (pull me over) a problem with the view of the license plate. I usually hunt ducks on the outskirts of and have to travel through one of the most cop-infested townships around - Derry Twp / Hershey, PA - just ask my kids and look at our attorneys' bills.
My OEM '2001 tires would work in the spring but not much tread left for the winter.. 55.8k miles now. I'd prefer to just swap out rims/tires for the winter and rest of the yr. Thanks Ger
It ain't worth it: rims, balancing, rotating 9 tires, storage space, etc. just to use nearly worn out tires next season on a $25-30K truck. In my way of thinking, the $650 for 5 new tires (31x10.5-15) represents a minor cost (2.6%) to keep my larger investment safer. I haven't figured in those intangibles, but very real costs, of an accident involving yourself, family, the other vehicle, etc.
I rather think that I did all that could to be as safe as possible than "I was just trying to save a couple of bucks".
I'm not bragging about my approach but you should think about buying the canoe / kayak carrier that Cabela's sells for $100 (US). I have a "crap" welder and a lot of time on my hands so I duplicated Cabela's offering. If I was working, it would have been more cost-effective to just buy the finished product. It also allows you to carry 2x4s, etc. in that 5.25' bed.
You can see it in their catalog or look at mine at http://home.pipeline.com/~dhornung45/ on the "Tools" page
If you want to go in this direction, there are two other hurdles:
1.) These lights were generic aftermarket and therefore don't have Dakota specific or for that matter any specific mounting hardware - just a bracket. I used blocks of treated lumber to provide a mounting surface behind each hole. These stacked triangular shaped blocks fit into those triangular "wings" behind the lower apron. The blocks are held in place with 2 bolts (2 on each side).
2.) Annual vehicle safety inspections are a little inconvenient. I don't know if it's just the guy I go to (within walking distance) or it's really a big No-No but he says that these lights are DOT approved (no numbers) so it's illegal for him to pass the vehicle with those in place. So it's 2 bolts and 2 wires per side and they are off for the annual inspection. They're back on just as easily the next day and stay there for another year. Never had any cop problems.
Now you have to decide if it's all worth it.
I wouldn't have any desire to use them as DRLs, but what caught my eye was the way they fit onto your Dak looking like a factory installation.
Too bad they're out of business. I wish I could find a better fog lamp assembly for mine that didn't look aftermarket.
Thanks again for the reply.
Bests,
Dusty
Bests,
Dusty
Good luck, Dick