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Hyundai Veracruz Maintenance and Repair



  • jlindhjlindh Posts: 282
    Limp home mode?
  • I posted my message under Hyundai Veracruz Check Engine Light error Codes on 8/27/2009. Basically, I had the exactly same problem of yours not just once but three times. Now I have enough experience thru, I can advice to anybody who goes thru the horrible thing. My advice is that when you had a problem first time, don't let the dealer fix the one thing at a time. Otherwise, Otherwise, the chances are you are going thru the same problem over a long period time with three parts. So, replace two censors and throttle body assembly all together. Anyway, it's under warranty. Only good thing about is that every time it happened, I was nearby the dear fortunately and they fixed the problem right away within 30 minutes. Once again, Read my message and you go from there.

    From Dallas, TX
  • Thank you for your input. The dealer replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. So, for now, the car is running fine. I'll post again if anything new occurs.
  • dick57dick57 Posts: 3
    I would like to know if the people that had their fuel pump change if they have a increase in their mileage performance.
    Right now 12.6mpg, having dealership look at what the problem with gas mileage.
    Ha ha
  • We had same experience. We bought our 2007 Hyundai Veracruz in Dec 2007. In Jan 09, the check engine light is on, and the dealer replaced ETC-actuator. Today the same problem happened again. This is becoming a safety issue, and I don't want to drive a car that may stop anytime. Did Hyundai ever resolve the issue about your car? I am going to call them tomorrow and see what they will say.
  • jowangjowang Posts: 4
    I own a 2008 Veracruz LTD. with 20,000 miles
    While driving on Interstate 101, going at 65 MPH, check engine light comes on and accelerator became nonresponsive. Had to get towed to Hyundai dealer.
    Dealer found code P22106, P1295 and 2135.
    Dealer performed TSB 09-FL003-2, replaced the TPS and reprogrammed the ECN.
    Hope this fixes the problem, because it is a serious safety issue when you can get stranded anywhere!!
  • I have a 2008 Hyundai Veracruz. My vehicle has been having a history of engine rev/erratic idle followed by stalling/stopping. This has happened 5 times now. Most recently, the vehicle stopped dead while driving and steering locked up with no acceleration. Towed in, service dept. could "not duplicate problem" and "reflashed computer to clear codes". No repair was made and I was told "to drive it and see what happens". Previously, I have had throttle body replaced twice now and it is still happening. I notified Hyundai Consumer Affairs on the off chance a recall is needed but they closed my case complaint after service dept. informed them that they reflashed computer. Anyone else still dealing with the problems listed earlier in this thread? Outcome? Thanks
  • konacqkonacq Posts: 6
    I had my '07 VC fuel pump replaced - no change.
  • dick57dick57 Posts: 3
    Gas mileage is really horrible in the city, I am lucky if 13.5 to 14 mpg I will receive from the Veracruz. But, the overall ride is excellent and highway mileage is around 24. No complaints.
    Quality of Hyundai Veracruz is excellent. :)
  • dgldgl Posts: 8
    Yes I initially ignored the recall until one day the "ESC" warning light came on and I pulled over and I could not shift into park, I put the car in neutral and turned off the engine. I restarted it and it was back to normal, I made an appointment with the dealer and it was fixed in less than an hour.
  • dolbowdolbow Posts: 5
    I have a serious safety problem with my 2009 Veracruz. The doors wont latch shut. This started with the passenger door when I was car pooling with some friends. The front passenger pulled the door shut and thought it was closed, only to have it swing open on a curve. I took it to the dealer in Preston, MD and they couldn't find anything wrong. Now it is continuing fly open on the passenger side and this past week on the driver side. Now that was a little exciting as I tried to maintain control of the car, while reaching out to pull the door closed several times. :confuse:
  • danazdanaz Posts: 1
    You are lucky to get it fix right away. Actually this happened to me twice. The first one was on Dec, 2008 before the recall date. I couldn't switch the shifter and the brake was LOCKED (couldn't be pushed down) and ESC was on too. The dealer fixed it. Then this time (2 days back, after one year and half), it even worse. The engine light was on, plus, battery and ABS. The car lost powder when driving on the road. Then it was totally dead. Again, the shifter couldn't be moved from D to P. The brake paddle couldn't be pushed. Now it is in dealer by towing there.
  • zoidboigzoidboig Posts: 2
    That happened to me twice as well. The first time, we were able to pull into a parking lot. It wouldn't start afterwords, so we jump started it and everything was fine until we removed the cables, then it stalled again. I figured it was a dead battery (it was empty of water)
    Towed it too the dealer, they fixed the TPS (it was in the codes). The next day it happened again. Towed it again, this time they changed the alternator, and its been fine for about two months now.

    Also, if anyone is having trouble starting your car on the first turn of the ignition, it is the 100% the fuel pump, which is covered 5 years 60000 miles
  • amilivamiliv Posts: 23
    My (2 and half year old) battery in 2008 Veracruz completely drained in less then 48 hours. Well, at least sufficiently to not be able to start the car. Now, while I suspect the battery died and does not hold the charge, I did measure how much amps the car is draining from the battery when it is turned off (locked, no interior lights, etc). I measured about 250 mA, which was a bit more than what I would expect. Is car drawing this current out of the battery normal? The battery in the car is rated at 80 Ah, so, 250 mA of constant current should drain battery completely in about 2 weeks. IMO, the battery in the car should hold longer when car is parked -- I'd expect to be able to start the car even if it was parked for up to a month. But, I'm not expert on this, hence the above question.

    BTW, I measured for only relatively short period of time after locking the car (less then a minute). I don't know if there's anything non-obvious that turns off after the car is locked for longer time period (reducing the current drawn from the battery).
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    250 milliamps is a little high but not all that unusual for modern vehicles with their computers and other electronic modules. Unfortunately, they will draw current even when the engine it turned off.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • amilivamiliv Posts: 23
    I've figured out why it was drawing 250mA. The hood was open, and there's a sensor for that. After disconnecting the sensor, and repeating measurement, the current would be initially around 250mA as before, then about 5-10 seconds later it would drop to 18mA and stay there. I guess when hood is open, it prevents some other subsystem from powering off.
  • amilivamiliv Posts: 23
    BTW, if anybody repeats the experiment on their car. After re-connecting the hood sensor (it's that two pin connector right behind the hood latch in engine compartment), and then re-connecting battery, the car alarm will trigger. Likely easiest way to turn it off is pressing "unlock" key on the remote.
  • I have a 2008 Veracruz LTD and I had it towed from the airport after an 11 hour flight. I have been having issues with the ignition for a few months now. I would turn the ignition and it would take forever to start or sometimes would take 2-3 attempts to start it. The first time I realized it, I took it to the dealership (I took it there because I have my warranty through them)& they could not get the same results. They told me it was not the starter and it was fine. I took it in again after it was dead and they replaced the battery, assuring me it was fine. Usually I can crank my car if it was recently cranked, but if it is the next day, I have this issue.
    Now I am reading online and many are having the issues I am having, claiming it is the fuel pump. It is in the dealership today and I actually shot a video of the issue, offering to show the service guy, but all of a sudden, he is saying "sounds like the fuel pump". I am really frustrated that there has been a lack of communication from Hyundai about this issue and it seems that MANY are having the same problem. My wife is 4 weeks away from having a baby and we need a reliable car. If other issues continue, this will be my last Hyundai. We have already had the rotaries replaced, sunglass holder, rear view mirror, etc... Thank goodness I bought the extended warranty & haven't had to pay anything yet.....
  • I own a 2008 Verzacruz with only 17,xxx miles on the odometer. The car developed a shaking steering wheel when braking around 13k miles which became progressively worse with time to the point that any braking on the highway would cause the steering wheel to shake rather strongly. Trip to the dealer identified the obvious: warped front rotors. Dealer first said that was not covered by Hyundai. I balked as the car had only 17k miles. Dealer called regional rep in Midwest and they offered to "turn" rotors to solve the problem. I called Hyundai North America direct and lodged a complaint. A representative called back and only offered the same cut the rotors.

    Anybody who knows about brakes realizes that their primary function is to dissipate the heat caused by the rubbing of the brake pad on the metal rotor. Consequently, "turning" a rotor (ie taking metal off the rotor) serves only to reduce the ability of the break to dissipate heat. What does this mean? Well these rotors will no doubt warp again as they can not handle the heat being produced by braking. Hyundai knows this but hopes consumer will go away because the brakes will feel "fixed" for a few thousand mile (or less) until they warp again.

    This post is to warn anyone reading that Hyundai will not stand behind their product. They use cheap...rotors which warp. Google the issue and you will see many others with the same problem. Now the Veracruz is NOT a cheap car...indeed it was $38k car back in 2008 when I purchased it. If you want to sell cars at these prices then you need to treat the consumer better. Indeed, how much more could replacing the rotors cost vs cutting them??

    Hyundai has just lost a customer for life and I will no longer recommend their cars. This is a safety issue also as one can lose control of the vehicle when the steering wheel begins to shake violently in a panic stop. Rotors do warp but better manufacturers at least replace with new pieces instead of recommending the "cheap" repair of cutting the rotor.

    So keep this in mind when you shop your new Hyundai....when you spend close to $40k you might as well get an Acura, Infiniti, Lexus, etc because they treat their customers better....have owned all three and can attest to this fact.

    Fool me once Hyundai...but never again. Good luck marketing higher end cars when you won't even replace your own cheap rotors.
  • stushstush Posts: 62
    I agree and disagree with ya. Hyundai, I feel, does have a problem with rotors on their larger, heavier vehicles. I feel that it's not because they use cheaper materials, but because they are under engineered. Cutting rotors will always be the first fix to a warped rotor. That's a fact! They will continue to cut the rotor till it can't be cut anymore or it's too rusty. Weather it's a dealer or an independent garage. It wouldn't surprise me that the Lexus or Acura told you they replaced your rotors when they just cut them to fix the warping. I've been driving Hyundai's since 2004. I have an 02 Santa Fe with 89,000 miles and it's been bullet proof. And, a 07 Entourage mini van that I have had trouble with the rotors. I'm near 68,000 miles and the front replaced twice and the rear once. Now the front are showing signs of warping again. My next set of rotors are going to be Cross - Drilled & Slotted ones. They dissipate heat the best, especially on a large heavy vehicle. If your not happy or think they use cheap materials for rotors, why would you want the same dealer crappy rotors? It also may be the dealer themselves. Some just don't care about customer service after the sale. I have been extremely happy with my Hyundai's, my next will also be a Hyundai. Maybe because I have a dealer that cares about customer service after the sale.
  • First, the dealer has nothing to do with my problem as I stated that not only the regional Hyundai rep was contacted but also Hyundai North America. Neither would do anything but offer to "turn" my rotor. Second, turning does not fix the problem. It merely is a "band-aid" that will hide the problem until it happens again. Once a rotor warps it will almost always warp again given same driving conditions. Also, if they keep cutting the rotor it will only warp faster every subsequent cut. Rotors warp when too much heat is generated and they either melt the pad material on to the rotor or literally bend the rotor out of shape due to heat.

    Either way, cheap OEM rotor can not take the heat. I note that this vehicle has much below average usage on the brakes as the about 1/3 of the mile were interstate with very low brake usage. And I have never used the brakes on mountains or any major emergency stop that might cause this. Very typical/below average use yet they still warped. I want a new rotor because at least that rotor will last longer, assuming Hyundai has not upgraded to a better quality replacement rotor, which I doubt given how cheap they appear to be. Or perhaps they don't want to set a precedent and admit the problem as it could lead to a recall.

    Bottom line is it is a problem and Hyundai does not care. Stupid, as they lost me as a customer and when people ask about what I think of the vehicle, I'll say nice but beware of Hyundai as they don't care about customer or safety. Again, this has happened on other vehicles I have owned and manufacturer has always replaced the rotor as they know that cutting it is a cheap, short term fix. So before buying that Veracruz or Genesis, take a look at the Acura, Infiniti or Lexus. Indeed, I was considering a Genesis and the Acura TL. I have owned Acura in the past...night and day dealer experience not to mention service when compared to Hyundai. And the prices are about the same. Given my first warranty experience with Hyundai, can you guess who is going to get my business?? They better keep their customers out of the cheap showrooms with the Equus and treat them better. That is why you pay more for Lexus/Infiniti...why risk it with unknown Hyundai who now shows a history of cutting corners and screwing over customers. Remember, this was a $38k vehicle, not a $12k Elantra.

    Sorry Hyundai...penny wise and pound foolish.
  • I had the same problem with my Honda Accord's back in the late 80's. They also would not replace the weak rotors; but, overtime, they fixed this problem with stronger rotors that don't warp with heavy breaking.

    Hopefully, Hyundai will learn from Honda's mistake and correct this right away. :(
  • stushstush Posts: 62
    Having them cut the rotors is not a bad thing. Normal, first approach to a warped rotor.
    All rotors will warp at some time. At 17,000, that is too early. Wanting them to put new rotors on when the rotor is a wearable part that is only covered under a 12 month/ 12,000 mile warranty will be tough. Like I said, their rotors are under engineered. If they would put new rotors on as a sign of good faith, they would put they same under engineered ones on. 18,000 miles or sooner you'll be in the same boat. Besides the crappy rotors, are you happy with the vehicle? Has the dealer been responsive to any of the other problems you may or may not have and have they corrected them in a timely matter? I've learned my lesson about their rotors and that is why I'm going with a different make. What if the Acura or Lexus dealer had done the same thing about poor rotors or any other problem on a wearable part with 17,000 miles on it, would it be OK because it's a Acura or Lexus or Infinity.
  • Perhaps you are not understanding. I want new rotors, even the same ones which will warp again, because at a minimum it will mean I will NOT have to revisit the dealer as soon as I might otherwise. If others are not having problems with their rotors then perhaps my rotors are defective, not all, and another reason to replace. Bottom line is that my rotors are bad and cutting them is NOT the answer, only a short term "fix" to hide the problem.

    And my point with the other manufacturers is that I have dealt with them and they do REPLACE rotors. Lexus GS i owned made a grinding sound...they immediately replace rotors and pads to fix. Still there. Diagnosed as bad tires. So what did Lexus do?? They replaced OEM Bridgestone tires with new Michelin Pilots...FOR FREE. They did this for two different GS's I owned. That is about $1000 of rubber times 2 cars. That is why Lexus is Lexus...and yes I realized I pay for it part via higher price.

    No problem with past Acura, but had Infiniti QX and they had well known brake rotor issues. No rotors two times before they finally fixed with better hardware.

    Now compare to Hyunda....sorry, we'll only cut your rotor to hide the problem for a few thousand miles. Sorry...unacceptable and you have lost me as a customer and I will tell everyone about this. I do like the vehicle otherwise, but why risk it with future issues?? If I can't have a problem free cars for at least 36k miles, why bother. Brake failure at 17k miles should be covered and has been by other manufactures. Again, if Hyundai is going to sell cars from a cheap Elantra to a $40k plus Genesis, they better distinguish how to treat these customers. Veracruz competes with Acura MDX and Lexus RX. Both of these manufacturers would NOT cut rotors.

    Again, you get what you pay for. Goodbye Hyundai, nice knowing you!
  • You should fight it. We complained that our steering wheel was shaking when we brake and they replaced the rotors without any issues. It may depend on your dealer. You need to get a manager involved and if they are unwilling to do it, tell them you are going to walk on the sales floor to prevent others from buying a Hyundai. Go as high up in management as you can go. "The squeaky wheel gets the grease".

    Our Hyundai Veracruz is a 2008 and we have already had these replaced: rotors, sunglass holder-wouldn't open all the way, battery (had a bad cell), and recently a fuel pump-car wouldn't start like others & so many have had this issue, it should be a recall. Now all of this we have had no arguments on them replacing and have had to contribute $0.00. That being said, it has still been very frustrating & very inconvenient having this many issues with a 2008!

    I recently bought an 2010 Acura TL and I bet $$$ that I won't have these kinds of issues in 2012 (when it's 2 years old).
  • question does everyone's Veracruz shake and shimmy from 35 -40 while maintaining these speeds? We purchased a 2010 Veracruz Limited in June 2010. Vehicle is perfect for what we wanted, however it has not lived up to the engineering quality promised in its online Brochure-or website promising a smooth ride. beginning at 35 -40 mph, unless accelerating through these speeds--it LUGS--like a standard shift does when put in a higher gear too soon. After 10-15 trips to the dealer--the Hyundai local rep tells me this is normal operation for the Veracruz--it is torque converter lock up. He says this is how all Veracruz's drive. I'd like to hear from as many Veracruz owbers as possible--and if this is the case--then anyone considering a Veracruz should keep shopping....I'm trading back to GM ASAP.
  • Pretty much the same story here! Bought in May 2010, Limited AWD Veracruz lugs, shutters, stutters whatever you want to call it around 30 mph ... slow tp pick up and it almost gives a feeling as to the car will just stop and not accelerate further!
  • The Hyundai e-brochure says the Veracruz is a "soul stirring experience"..ha--now we know what they mean. Its hard to believe they can't fix this--its more they won't fix it. The rep said to just speed up through it or down shift it---wow. Talked to me like I was a 16 year old kid with his first car and should think all $40,000 cars shake and shudder like this.
  • Ive had this problem, but I don't really notice it anymore (I may have got used to it)
    It might be due to the face that its a 6 speed transmission, and is in 6th gear, so it needs to downshift to get any power (think of a mountain bike if that helps)
    It did bother me to begin with, but as I see it, its helping me save a little gas, so i'll deal with it.
  • I am experiencing the same thing now (08 LTD Veracruz in Vancouver).

    Always happens in the am when cold. After a couple of times turning the car off then on again the problem goes away and eventually check engine light. Have an apt next week.

    Any other info I can tell the dealer when I go in?
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