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Comments
is well worth having. It is not a locker but offers increased tractive effort in both 2WD and 4WD. I cannot answer why the Taco ma is rated higher, but so is the Dakota Club cab. It has to do with the GVWR in which the weight of the truck (empty) and the weight of the driver (150 bbs) is factored in. The payload (cargo, trailer, etc.) is established after the empty vehicle and driver (150 bbs.) are deducted from the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The Regular Cab is rated even higher as again, the base truck is lighter.
The Quad Cab has 4 front hinged doors that fully open on an independent basis. That did it for me.
You will love this truck. Good luck.
Bookitty
As far as fit goes, you may need to buy the bracket that PIAA makes specifically for the 510/Dakota application. It is a 90 degree shaped bracket that attaches perfectly to existing holes in the Dakota bumper and aligns with the existing foglight holes (or in my case, the ones that I had cut out). I don't recall the specific part no. for the bracket off-hand but it can be found at PIAA's website. You need to look under the application guide and it will tell you to use this bracket when mounting the 510's on a Dakota. Lastly (sorry for the long post), most PIAA dealers don't stock this part, but if you call a 4x4 place in CA. called "Dirty Parts" 310-390-9086 and talk with Larry the owner, he should have them in stock.
Hope this helps.
Do you have any idea what the gas mileage difference is with the 3.92 vs. the 3.55? If it's 15mpg vs. 16mpg that'd be fine, but if it's like 12mpg vs. 16mpg... over the life of the vehicle that becomes significant. Thanks for all the input so far, keep it coming!
Merl, Tejas
Carl
Tow a 19 foot travel trailer (4000lbs) plus a 12 foot cartop boat on the roof.
1) The actual ratio depends also on tire size - I have 235's and finished ratio is almost identical to the 215's and 3.55 ratio when in 4th and 5th gear
2) I tow in fourth gear, cruise on and it can handle up to 7% grades with no problem at 60MPH - it is utterly effortless.
3) Don't forget 1st gear - you spend a lot of time backing up too, and it's essential to have a gear ratio that allows you to creep along without riding the clutch and start from a dead stop
4) LSD? It snows here . I can't imagine driving without it. I don't really notice the LSD any other time - I think thats a good sign?
5) RPM at 60 mph - all of 200rpm difference to the combinatrion of 3.55 and 235 tires
6) mileage is dependent upon your throttle foot,since the truck goes like hell resist the urge to boot it when in second and third gear - the response is phenomenal!
7) Yea the Toyota is rated higher, but you will run the bag off it trying to keep up with traffic. I used to tow with a japanese 3.0 litre six, it sucked. Can't beat cubic inches.
8) Buy a Toyota - what l kind of patriot are you? Lenin was right, when it comes time to hang the western capitalist it will be another western capitalist that sells us the rope.
I just graduated from college, so I thought I would treat myself to a brand new C. I have been dreaming about it for so long.
Anyway, I am just a week or two away from ordering my C. I have been researching the AC options alot, and have read almost every post on this forum. However, just like merlh, I need a little advice to finalize my decisions about a few options.
I am looking to buy a fairly loaded (minus power seats and leather) patriot blue AC, 4X4, 4.7 V8, auto, I&H.
To make it shorter, here are my questions:
1. I will mainly be snow drift jumping up here in North Dakota, rather than real offroading. Is it still a good idea to get the skid plate group?
2. Is it possible to mount tow hooks in the two holes in the lower front facial?
3. From everyone's comments, it sounds like the 4-wheel AS and LSD are the only way to go for a glacial environment. Does anyone disagree?
4. The only towing I am planning for is a 14' speed boat a couple times a year. Is it still a good idea to go for the 3.92 ratio?
5. Has anyone had good luck/recommend the optional security alarm?
6. I am leaning toward the slide in plastic bed liner over the spray in. Just because of durability and possible removal? Any comments?
7. Is it possible to use an after market CD changer with the factory deck changer controls?
8. When is the heavy duty service group recommended?
9. Is there actually two types of transmissions?
a) 2WD/4WD
b) AWD/4WD
What are the differences?
Sorry this was so long. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
1) If snow drifts are the extent of your 4-wheeling, the skid plates are probably a luxury rater than neccessity. There has also been some talk of oil changes being more difficult with the plates.
2)Anything is possible. Dodge put the cutouts there, but haven't followed up with the hooks as an accessory yet. The ones listed for 2000 do not work. If you know someone who's good with metalwork/welding, brakets could be fabricated. I know on no kits on the market now that bolt in.
3)ABS & LSD are good ideas for any enviroment, not just those of us in the arctic. They enhance vehicle control and safety, and some insurance co. even discount for ABS.
4)Without knowing the weight of what you're towing this is only a guess, but it sounds like you would be well within the truck's limits if oyu went with the 3.55's
5) I have the alarm,and personally I prefer to have a factory optional alarm that is designed as part of the truck rather than an aftermarket on that is modified to fit, possibly needing to mess with the trucks wiring/body. It's not fancy, but it does the job. anyway if the crooks are pros they'll just hook up a tow truck to it anyway, and no alarm will stop them.
6)This is a topic with many opinions on both sides. I have a spray-in and I'm happy with it, and the several others I've had in the past. Others here feel the same way about the slid-ins. You need to look at the +/- of each and your use/situation and decide which is best for you.
7)There is currently a discussion on this going on in Accessories group regarding this topic
8) Absolutly. If you are towing at all, it is a good investment. In fact it's so important that if you go with the factory tow pkg. (recommended) Dodge makes it manditory.
9) the transmissions are all the same. It is the transfer cases that change.
2wd-none
4wd- part time switchable case offers 2wd,4wd hi and lo
AWD- full time 4wd. I'm not sure if hi and lo are both available
Next question: Extended warranty, need it?
The last Chrysler product I owned was a '72 Plymouth Valiant so I'm somewhat unfamiliar with quality and longevity of the modern vehicles. Input appreciated.
Thanks for all the help,
Merl, Tejas
It would seem to me, with all of the expensive and sophisticated components used on today's modern vehicles, that an extended warranty
would prove a prudent investment. Like any other underwritten insurance policy, one hopes never to have to invoke it, but it certainly generates a comfortable feeling. There are also various other aftermarket choices for extended warranty beside OEM. Merl, it's your money and ultimately your decisions, but I trust that this input will help. Good luck.
Bookitty
Can't go the center console route because I have a bench seat.
TIA
Martin
The larger tires better have nearly 40PSI in them for highway use. It is in the owners manual and all over the news reciently (Ref Firestone)
The numbers on the door pillar are for a SMOOTH ride.
Using the Higher PSI will give you better MPG, steering response and longer tire life. I beleive that the MAX PSI on the tire sidewall is often recommended for LT tires.
Mailman
Bookitty
And after reading the owners manual, upped the pressure again because the 31's should have 40psi "if mostly driven at highway speeds" according to the tire chart in the info packet...
In my opinion, 30psi in the 31's is WAY TOO LOW for a truck of this weight and will cause them to run ALOT hotter at normal driving speeds (45-70mph) not to mention the worse gas mileage, added Sidewall Flex and possibly unEven tire wear on the outside edges... 30psi should be used only if you need X-TRA traction at LOW Speeds (ie. BeachSand, Snow, RockCrawling, pulling a boat out of the water on a slippery ramp...etc) ..
I will concede that 40psi DOES give a slightly harsher ride and will cause the rear end to hop slightly around bumpy curves and railroad tracks, BUT, this is easily resolved by adjustig driving habits (ie. Slowing down for bumpy curves and not jumping railroad tracks)...
Personally i would NOT take this truck to highway speeds for any length of time with only 30psi in the tires...AND i would not Hot-Rod around long sharp curves @ 30psi either because of the extreme sidewall Flex with a low-pressure tire with the height of the 31's...I feel that 34-35psi is the absolute MINIMUM for the 31's with normal driving conditions on a truck of this size/weight loaded OR unloaded...
Remember, Believe it or not, this is a TRUCK and NOT a Cadillac or a Corvette...(Despite the good ride and the awesome power!!!!)
Once again this is My 2 cents and each one will have to read the charts and apply his/her own judgement... All i can offer is that My family and I ride on 40psi at all 4 corners....
Enjoy and feel free to Disagree...
CHAD......Greensboro, NC
I guess my reference to the OWNERS MANUAL was not seen by some appenders.
If you want to risk losing the tread on the 31 inch tires... run 30 PSI on the highway!!
Good luck and let us know what you ordered.
Bookitty
Bookitty
Bookitty
My comment was aimed toward the 31x10.50 tires and not the 255/65's....the 255's are passenger car tires if i remember correctly... 35psi should be OK for these low profile tires ..But just as well, NO-ONE will convince me that it is smart to run 30psi in a 31" tall tire underneath a vehicle this heavy at highway speeds or any continuous speed for that mater
By NO MEANS was this thread meant to say it was Ok to run the max pressure on the sidewall
I love disagreement..,,,
CHAD, Greensboro-NC
1) Do you have the standard size rim for your quad, or did you start w/ the 31-10.50's as original equipment?
2) How much did the tires raise the truck. (I am intrested in how much height the axle was raised.)
3) Did you have to put a lift kit on your truck to get the new tires to fit?
The reason for the questions: I drive my truck on ranch roads & across pasture in west & sw Texas. I am forever scraping the 1st or 2nd skid plate on the truck. Mostly against 2/3rds buried rocks that stick up on our "usual" ranch roads. If I can get 2 - 3 in of heighth from the tires & and my standard sized rims w/ out a lift kit, I will be one happy camper.
Thanx for your time,
PDS aka: Cowtown Aggie
Anyone else that can help answer my "burning question" of the month, please chip in w/ your experiences.
1) I started with the 265/70R16 witch is the MY2001 equvilant of the 31's. My current rim size is 15x8.
2)I have not measured the axle height, but since I only went up 1" in tire height, total height is only up .5" (in theory anyway).
3) no lift was required, although some trimming was needed for clearance.
I know BFGoodrich offers 33" All-Terrains in both 9.5 and 10.5" widths which may give you a bit more height, but I don't know how well they will fit in the wheel well. The narrower tire may clear. Unfortunately there are not alot of wheel options available for the Dak that take popular off road tire sizes (15")into account. Most are designed for street tires (16",17",etc.)
Gas mileage seems steady around 16 mpg.
Still waiting for the "window regulator" part to arrive at the dealers in order to fix the drivers side rear window. When the part arrives, I will probably pick up a set of rubber mud flaps while at the dealer.
I just noticed a slight run/drip in the paint on the drivers side rear door. It is not too noticeable unless the light is just right.
The truck is an SLT model with "chrome bumpers and the gray spoiler up front" and "chrome rear bumper with gray inserts". When I mention "spoiler", it is the part below the bumper which houses the fog lights.
My questions are:
1-Should I bother to have the minor paint blemish looked at or live with it?
2-Is paint covered by the warranty?
3-Can the "gray spoiler" and "gray rear bumper inserts" be painted to match the body color?
Thanks for any advice.
The bumper trim parts can be painted. Although, if I remember correctly they are a rough finish which probably would not look too good (or smooth) painted. You might look at getting replacement parts from a sport model that are smooth and have them sprayed to match.
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html
Probably not worth going through all the trouble having it sanded down and painted.
It is small, and i only noticed it after 2 months of ownership.
Guess I'll wait till the first wash and wax to see if there are any more blemishes and decide then.
The dealership has a seperate shop for body work and painting. I don't know how good their work is though.
Thanks for your input about the bumpers.
I can't really afford to buy replacement parts at this time. I will have to live with them for a while longer. The gray bumpers kinda gives the truck an unfinished look. At least the gray color goes through the material and seems to hide scratches. Found out when the snow shovel bumped into the rear bumper...oops.
Skid plates- protects truck when offroading. Probably gets in the way when changing oil, only 950 miles on mine so I don't know yet. Probably get the option cost back in resale. I figured it was cheap insurance for the times I go camping in remote areas.
LSD diff- This is the first time I had a truck with the LSD diff.
It helps tremendously for getting initial momentum in snow and mud conditions without having to go into 4x4 mode.
Antilock brakes- This is a new feature for me. I like them. It definitely helped me a few weeks ago while driving to work. I hit a patch of ice while making a turn, ABS activated, no sliding at all while still had the ability to steer. The brakes feel like an absolutely normal system until a lock up is detected and the ABS engages.
Some people claim the ABS is not good for hard-core offroading.
Bookitty
Good luck with your truck, and consider all options carefully, because it is far better to order them now, as opposed to field installing them later.
Bookitty
ABS - GOT TO HAVE IT. This is the second vehicle I have bought with ABS, and I wouldn't go without it. We had the snowiest December in recorded history. The whole month the roads were covered in packed snow & ice. My ABS kicked in several times a day, and I have really grown to love.
LSD - GOT TO HAVE IT. Same reasons as above.
Tire PSI - For 10 years I have only run my tires with the max PSI. I have never bounced off the road and I am yet to ware out the center of the tires before the edges do. I have 20,000 miles on my truck and have kept 44 PSI the whole time. The tires look great (just did the second rotation).
Rick
Bookitty
Why? I grew up in the Chicago area and was raised the learn to drive in the snow. One of the things that must be learned to the point where it is a reflex is pumping the brake pedal in order to maintain steering in slick conditions. I do it without even thinking about it.
Now, where ABS is concerned, if somebody, like myself, were driving an ABS equiped vehicle and "pumped" the brakes as I described, the computer would become very confused and react strange enough to cause panic situation. I've experienced it on my '99 Rodeo and it's not fun.
However, my biggest complaint with ABS is the following:
Road&Track did a study on the different types of brakes and found that locked-up tires (ie. slamming on the brakes) will stop a vehicle much quicker than one equiped with ABS. Even on ice.
Even the pumping brakes technique managed to stop a vehicle quicker than ABS since there is still sufficient lock-up.
For the average Joe, new driver, or people located on warmer climates, ABS would probably prove a good addition to vehicle safety.
However, I am staying as far away from it as I can for my own safety and comfort.
I just ordered my 2001 QC about 3 weeks ago and, no, it does not have ABS.