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Comments
I have 17,000 miles on my 00 Quad and still get a smile on face when ever I drive it. I started with din oil until 6,000 miles then switched to Moil 1 synthetic with Moil 1 liter.
Knk
I have a new 2000 QC SLT 4X4 and recently installed the new Waag "Sportster" grill guard on it. This is a low-profile grill guard -- meaning it looks like the center piece of a full-sized unit from Waag. I like it b/c it doesn't interfere with my headlights and won't cause as much damage to same if I am ever unfortunate enough to get in a front-end collision. The cost is reasonable too (about $160.00 - $180.00 depending where you buy it from). You can see an example of the unit at www.autostyles.com/waagdodge.htm.
With respect to lights, I installed a set of PIAA Pro XT lights on top of the grill guard, and a set of PIAA 510 Super White Pencil driving lights where the fog lights usually go. The 510's are very bright in the center and offer better illumination on the sides (but not as wide as fog lights). I have them pointed down somewhat to avoid blinding on-coming traffic (these lights are extremely bright). I also installed PIAA Super White light bulbs (Part No. 9007) in my headlights. These bulbs, in and of themselves, offered a dramatic improvement over the stock bulbs. But the high beams were still sub par in my opinion.
If you let me know what your e-mail address is, I can send you a picture of my QC so you can see what the Waag grill guard looks like with the PIAA lights.
Here in Atlanta area, we have so much traffic that gas mileage is a lousy 13 or so commuting, but have gotten 17 on the highway. I've done the Airtec (think that's the one) modified intake & flow master exhaust. Sounds like a real truck, has more pep than most any truck and wasn't changed a tenth on gas mileage.
Steel horse steps keep coming loose, they mount on body mounting locations. Dealer said to get the rear points welded, we'll see about that.
OIL: Per the above posts, started synthetic engine oil @5,000 miles, no yellow slime and no problems. What about changing transaxel oil/transfer case and all that stuff? The dealer says not required (I only tow -haul trailers on occasion. Several months ago there was a lot about changing at different intervals. How about a few posts on what y'all have done.
Anybody in North GA want to have a Sat PM "Meet" when the ax warms up? We can sit around and laugh at the other "semi-quads".
I couldn't be happier with my first non-GM truck ever, unless a honey had bought it for me as a thank you gift - fat chance.
Have a good millennium!
Also, about the rear axle offset.. It is my opinion that my bed is actually aligned slightly to the left where it meets the cab. If that misalignment went all the way back to the rear, then I would have to say that the rear is ok and the bed is misaligned. I know there has been great debate about this subject, but I looked at the bed alignment closely and this is what I think. My rear is definately offset a bit when you look at it. I don't know if I'm going to bother trying to get the dealer to align the bed over a matter of 1/4 inch.
I would try a hitch rig if it did not cost 2 arms and a leg..
slr9589
I am headed to Snowshoe Mountain (WV) this Tuesday and Wednesday. Conditions are great, let's hope I can keep up!!!???
Have test driven two '01 Dakotas, loved them both. I really would love to hop in one of these, but I need to find out about their reliability. Can anyone here help me out? Personal stories, sites to visit, any info. would be helpful in making decision.
(have tested the Tundra, but I like the Dakota better!!!)
Thanks!
The other problem started in the last 500 miles. If you are not on the gas as the truck makes its 2nd to 3rd upshift, there is a loud clunking sound.
I have not had a chance to get back to a dealer, but I would appreciate any of you sharing similar problems and the required repairs.
Thanks
Ron
Killeen, TX
1) Gas milage been dropping ever since I bought it. Started out at 14.8 city, now I'm down to 12 city. Cold weather, oxy fuels, etc could be to blame. My "city" is a 6.5mi drive to/fro work, stop/go, 35mph tops. I was ok with 14, 12 kindof sucks. Just hope I've hit bottom.
2) Clunk in driveline. Was starting to document this for a service request. Was getting worse until cold weather set in. Now I hardly hear it, unless truck is fully warmed up on a warmish day (50's). I'm waiting until spring/summer, when I expect it to come back, as weather warms up. Maybe its gone? doubt it. Especially noticable at low speeds, like toodling around at 15MPH in 2nd. Touch the throttle, get a "thunk". Make a crummy shift, get a thunk. Sometimes, make a good shift, get a thunk. Thunk thunk, I'm all thunked out.
3) Airbag needed servicing. Apparently a clip came loose in steering column, causing binding of steering wheel. This happened at about 1K miles. Gradually it was getting harder to turn. One day in parking lot, I was backing out and couldn't hardly turn wheel. Tired of this *@#%$ I pulled hard, hard enough for something to go "snap" and then "ding ding ding" my airbag light came on. Service fixed it under warranty (of course).
4) During cold weather cold starts, sounds like a bearing going out under the hood. Haven't pinpointed the noise, but it is in the area of the a/c compressor. After abt 5 minutes, it goes away. AT startup though it is loud enough to hear in the cab with all the windows up (cold outside) and radio on. NOTE: not the same noise as fan noise, which is also obnoxious but normal.
My biggest gripe, other than the airbag incident, is that I bought the truck under the information that I could add a passr side on/off airbag switch, DC had a kit set up, etc etc etc. No such luck so far, in fact my last call a couple months ago the service dept told me basically to go take a hike, DC was never going to offer such a kit (same dept that gave me kit# to order, which turned out to be wrong kit#, but that's another story and this is getting long winded)
Oh yeah, I keep hoping the seats will sag some as they "break in", since I'm 6'3" and don't like grazing my head on the roof support ridge when I hit a bump.
PINGING: I've had my '01 QC SLT+ 4.7 V8 auto for about 2 months (2k miles). I've had no pinging AT ALL so far. NO ... it is NOT normal for all QC's to do that.
CLUNKING TRANNY: I, too, have the clunking tranny. Mine is like WANT1BAD's at post 1623. However, mine is NOT getting worse. It only does it at LOW speeds, around at 15MPH in 2nd - touch the throttle, get a "thunk".
It must be normal because I've seen several other posts about the same thing; AND, the dealer says it's "normal" for these trucks. For what it's worth: My dad has been driving trucks for about 55 years and he says that EVERY truck he's ever driven makes a similar sound; be it Dodge, GM or Ford. Some are only worse than others.
Gator72
Also want1bad, I'm 6'5", is my head gonna hit the roof (literally) when I pothole one of these things. Once again, I guess I'm gonna have to drive one.
Thanks
David
Sorry guys. I brought my QC to the dealer today to get a minor problem fixed on my alarm and they didn't get it back to me today. I should have the truck back tomorrow and will shoot some pics and post them on http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
I don't believe the webpage is active yet since I haven't uploaded any pictures. I should have everything uploaded by tomorrow or Wednesday.
WHEELESA:
I only have 1K on my QC but can report two minor problems: 1) a small glitch in the Mopar aftermarket alarm system that I had the dealer install (won't disarm when the unlock button is pushed once); and 2) my steering wheel clock spring broke just like WANT1BAD's did. In this situation, I started hearing noises in my steering column when I turned it -- like there was some loose paper rubbing against something in there. Then @ about 300 miles, when I tried to make a hard U-Turn in a parking lot, it felt like I pulled some wires out and the airbag light came on. Also, my cruise control and radio controls on the steering wheel stopped working. All other steering and electrical problems worked fine, though, and the dealer fixed the problem with no hassles.
So far I haven't experienced any clunking noises, weird shifts, etc. But I have the 5.9L engine with standard 4 speed auto. I also have fulltime 4WD and can tell you that it works like a dream. I had occasion to use it extensively during the recent snow and ice storms we had here in the DFW area. It is really cool to feel those front wheels grabbing when the traction is less than ideal.
My gas mileage, on the other hand, hasn't been that great (11 mpg city). But I noticed it started to improve a little after I hit about 700 miles. I'll also admit that I'm not trying to maximize my MPG during the break-in period (I have been driving briskly and at varied speeds etc. as the manual recommends). I imagine after the engine breaks in and I start driving more "normally" my gas mileage will improve. The 5.9 has so much torque that I hardly need to press on the gas pedal to travel at or above the legal limit. Also, I'm amazed that my RPM's are only around 1500-1800 RPM's @ 65-70 MPH on the freeway (I have the 3.55 axle). I hope this info. helps.
I have a '01 CC/4wd with 3.9 - 5 speed tranny. I've
had a clunking noise from the very beginning. The noise occurs when I shift from 1st to 2nd if I don't first let off the gas "early" and then shift. It also occurs in a higher gear if I dab the gas and quickly let off. At first I thought it was because I had been driving a sports car and my shifting was a bit too quick for a truck. This is probably some of my fault but it also seems like the RPM's drop very slowly and the gear/engine speeds don't match well by the time I let up the clutch. I've since adjusted my shifting technique and now I can avoid the clunk most of the time.
In response to gator72, my dad also has driven trucks for over 50 years and was a mechanic for a fleet of gas tankers. He said the noise was normal "gear slap" and that in some makes of trucks the noise was more pronounced. That put my mind at ease. By the way, I love my new truck.
Bookitty
It is slight so I will not worry about it unless the sound gets worse.
Also hear a slight clunk when engageing or disengaging the clutch.
I was able to get them disabled pretty easily but have not been able to get them to start working again, at least with the instructions in my 2001 owners manual. I can't help but think that the manual is giving us the wrong procedure. Anybody out there know how to get it done?
Thanks
Thanks bookitty, bobs5, bikerider2, gator72 and anybody else that I missed.
I am in the process of buying a new 4x4 Quad cab. I am getting the 4.7L V-8 and the manual transmission (25B (EVA,DDC)). My options are: Sports Plus Group (AGU), Delux Conv. Group (AJK), Power Conv. Group (AJP), Heavy Duty Group (ADJ), Trailer Tow Group (AHC), and the Rear Window Defroster (GFA).
These options total up to an invoice price of $23,387. Add in the destination charge of 585 takes it to $23,972. When I subtract out the $1000 rebate and the $500 Farm B. rebate and that comes to $22,472.
I have had a few dealers here in Ohio say that they would do the deal for $250 over invoice. But then they (at least the last dealer that I talked to) want to tack on $400 for regional advertising and $11 for gas, and even another $30 so they can send me their junk mail.
I am ordering the truck, so they would pocket the whole 3% of MSRP holdback. That amounts to around $780+ or so.
Does anybody know of any Ohio area dealers that won't try to add fees back into the deal.
Any other comments are also welcome.
Thanks,
Kyle
I accidentally disabled the auto-locking feature on my 2000 QC but was able to re-enable it following the manual's procedure on the 1st try. If I recall correctly, you have to do the following: 1) make sure all your doors are closed; 2) place the ignition in the off position; 3) switch the ignition between the off and on position 4 times, ending in the on position; and 4) within 30 secs, you have to lock your doors using the power door lock switch on the driver's side door.
Hope this helps.
Just wondering if you tried the auto-buying services of the warehouse clubs like Sam's or Costco. I received a quote from a dealership here in the DFW area that participates in the Sam's program (Randall Noe). They quoted me $50 over invoice for a 2001, whether I ordered one or picked one off of their lot. I don't recall whether the advertising cost was included, but it probably was. I decided to buy a 2000 QC from another dealer @ cost (Preston Dodge -- great dealership too) b/c of the better incentives being offered by Dodge on the 2000 models.
Invoice Price - I just want to ask why so many of you are having to pay "X" amount over invoice. I ordered my truck last January when truck sales were hotter than they are right now, and I got mine for invoice. The way the media is talking about truck and car sales being down right now, it sounds like it's a buyers market out there. I would push harder for the Invoice price or less.
That seems to be what I did yet it doesn't enable itself. I'll be sure to try it again when I get out to the parking lot this afternoon just to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Thanks for replying to my question.
first a few updates. the 4 wheel abs was worth the money to me. 4 wheel is quick to engage, and is trust worthy. rides better than my taurus. i have alot more faith in this vehicle than my old s-10.
my rear end clunks some times too, but i beleive also that is a monster created by the drive train and not the tranny. it just takes some time to get used to. on tu and wed i send my wife in it to saranac lake and lake placid(50 miles +/-)and she loves the truck. thats why i make her surrender the keys when she comes in the door.
i am thinking about getting the westin step bars this spring, and i know that some of you have posted about them. can you get them in a stainless steel or polished alum. and for how much generally.
Evan
don't know if this is a new flash or the same one that others have received, but I don't remember seeing the specifics before. Personally, I'm looking to make as much power as possible while having no ping and stick with 87 gas, so the new PCMs won't do me much good when (if) they're released for the 4.7 as the require 93 octane. Because you can't revert afterward I'd like to find someone that's done this.
Do the new flashes have a noticable drop in dyno runs, butt or otherwise? I'd prefrer a little ping at WOT through 2nd and 3rd if the alternative is putting my 4.7 on no-doze. Anyone have thoughts or numbers? To eliminate ping, Dodge used to retard the timing by 3 degrees across the rev band and still may. This flash may do the same thing, though only at WOT - I don't know. So has anyone had the new flash and have any opinions on their truck's new performance?
=www.moparchat.com quote=
It will address the following symptoms:
1.) Part throttle or wide-open throttle spark knock
2.) Sag or hesitation following a cold engine start
3.) Rough idle
4.) Idle sag on deceleration to a stop
The TSB involves reprogramming your PCM with new software (99Cal20 and 00Cal17)
list of the particulars.
2001 AC 4X4 Sport, 4.7 V8, Auto Tarns., Sports Plus Group, Power Convenience Group
Cruise and Tilt, AM/CM in dash DC, Heavy Duty Service, Tow Package
Prior to dealer contact I did alot of research on the net in regards to invoice pricing. Dealer bottom line was $23,400 before taxes and OD of $25,500 after uncle am got me. When
shopping around, another dealer said he could not touch that price. Anybody have any comments. Just curious to know if I got ripped.
I will also keep pushing to get the best price.
I have checked out the car buying section at the Motley Fool (fool.com). It is great. Written by an old school car salesman...reformed.
I will try some of their tips and let you all know how it goes.
Thanks, and keep the comments coming.
Kyle
http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000/My_Quadcab.html
Click on each of the picture links to see all of the pictures.
1st to 2cnd 'clunking' Dealer said its normal',
don't think I buy that. Hopefully it won't lead
to bigger problems. If you haven't read the yellow sludge' issue yet, do so. I have that
problem as well. The dealer says there is a kit
to fix the condensation problem and that its not
the PCV valve or coolant leakage. Hope their right!
I'll be flat towing another vehicle with it a few times per year, an old Jeep that weighs about 3,000 pounds. The rest of the time it will be daily/family transportation. Should I stick with the 3.55 differential ratio or go to the 3.92? What effect does the 3.92 ratio have on gas mileage?
I see that Dodge offers two different 4WD systems, an AWD and a 2WD/4WD switchable. I don't plan on doing a lot of off-roading, which system will be better/more reliable in the long term? I've had a real hard time finding any information on the differences between the two types of transfer cases offered. I'm leaning away from the AWD system simply due to the added complexity and expense, is this a mistake?
I'm curious about owner experience with the Dodge LS rear end. I'm tempted to *not* get it and if I ever decide I want to do any serious off-roading to just install an aftermarket locker. Any comments on this?
AFA towing capacity... the Toyota Tacoma D-cab is rated at 5K pounds with it's V6 and the QC is rated at 4800 with the
4.7 and 3.55 rear end. Why is that? The QC seems to have SO much more torque I would think it'd be rated at least as high or higher than the Tacoma. Can anyone explain?
Thanks in advance,
Merl, Tejas