Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

1…5758606263…101

Comments

  • Options
    maceymacey Member Posts: 59
    If its advertised and you payed for it, it should be there, if it changed mid-year the dealer should tell you, not scratch is head and say Gee I don't know why it's missing.

    I for one like the v8 badges, glad the Quad Badge is missing. I also think the missing underhood light is a neccessity not a luxury...comments on this?

    Console light, probably nice to have, again it's in the brochure, if not included for whatever reason, then give me some money back.

    BTW, no one is pulling anyone's arm to read these type posts, I'm laughing at the people B&M about reading this stuff when the subject line tells ya what the post is about....ok, ok, now complain about 'clutter'

    FWIW, today, DC can't explain why 2001s are not suppose to have hood insulation and light, console light, and badges, yet some are still be deliverd with them...2 items to note: DC is getting cheap omitting these items and they have inconsistency and poor QC on the line re: letting those that get through.
  • Options
    biglucybiglucy Member Posts: 140
    just a thought... besides the fact that we know DC is being super cheap and cutting corners, I was just thinking that as high as the hood elevates, the underhood light may not really be bright enough to shine down on the engine?!? Maybe someone out there with the underhood light could enlighten me?
  • Options
    snowcountrysnowcountry Member Posts: 15
    OK smartass, I used their spell check, it's an awful interface and I didn't triplecheck the results. Be careful what you say, I'm visiting the flatlands this summer and if your're not careful you could with a couple badges or a hood insulation kit going missing.
    In Saskatchewan is the steering wheel still an option?
  • Options
    average_joeaverage_joe Member Posts: 5
    Hello, I have a 2001 QC with about 500 miles on it, and in the last week I have noticed twice upon starup that when I step on the gas, the engine gets very loud. I dont really know how to describe the sound, except almost like a really loud fan, and the engine seems to lack power for all this noise, I mean it moves, but it's sluggish and not responsive. By the time I get the end of my street, the noise is gone and everything is fine. This only happens the first time I start it up in a day, usually when its kinda cold out? Any ideas of what could be wrong?
  • Options
    nortx01qcnortx01qc Member Posts: 37
    You are hearing the fan clutch. This is very common and you may also hear it after sitting still for a period of time with the engine running. You are "average" like the rest of us Dak owners.

    Now go put some miles on that quad!!!!!
  • Options
    gsx750fgsx750f Member Posts: 32
    My truck also sat lower on one side. One dealer said nothing wrong. Took it to original dealer and they had it fixed in no time. Torsion bar misadjusted.
    Gas prices just hit $1.799 today. Hope it doesn't rain soon. I get about 45mpg on the bike if I can keep it under 85.
  • Options
    namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    Why the hood insulation was deleted. I spoke with them before my CC was delivered and if you read back some posts you'll see it. DC felt that it was not necessary. There is enough space under the hood to the engine that heat is not an issue. It also does nothing to make it quieter. If fact in some cases, like in heavy snow country with road salt the hood insulation can make corrosion worse.

    My Dakota has the underhood light. I can't comment on the console as I have the bench seat.

    The badges, the Quad cab should have the Quad Cab badge behind the doors, the 01 don't have the V8 or V6 badge. You can even see that in the brochure. The Rams head is there as well as the other Dakota markings (SLT, sport, 5.9 R/T, Motorsports, etc.)

    If you really want a V8 badge, just order ones for a 00 and have them installed. Personally I think it looks better without them. It keeps the lines a little cleaner. Besides, I don't need to advertise what I have. I certainly don't want it to be like GM that has to announce every little detail (ABS, Fuel Injection, Turbo, MPI Fuel Injection, Etc.)
  • Options
    maceymacey Member Posts: 59
    I want just a muffler, will do a custom 2 1/4 inch dual exit to the rear (hell of a lot of bending in order to keep the spare tire and also do a clean driver side exit) with 3 inch chrome tips (mainly for show)...to be installed around 500 miles or so (anyone install a custom cat-back dual setup earlier?)

    Narrowed down my muffler choices to:

    Delta Flow 50 Series (appears there is no 2 1/4 outlets, will have the pipes 'stretched', part #9425502 ($89 at Summit)

    SUV 50 Series Performance, has 2 1/2 inch inlet, dual 2 1/4 outlets, part #525552 ($92 on truckperformance.com)

    I want a nice rumble at idle, the muffler to talk when accelerating and to be quiet in the cab at highway speeds...I'm told the SUV series isn't that much louder in the cab (if at all) -vs- the delta flow but gives a bit more gains...does this sound right?

    BTW, my muffler shop does great work but wants to order the muffler, what is a acceptable mark up for him on the muffler?

    My DAK QC has 55 miles on it, if she only knew what she's in for!
  • Options
    txqc2000txqc2000 Member Posts: 121
    My QC has an underhood light. This is the 1st vehicle I've had in a while that's had the light. It works pretty well, in my opinion. It certainly is better than none at all.
  • Options
    bja4bja4 Member Posts: 67
    My 2000 Sport with the "lighting package" came with the interior hood light. I don't know about 2001, 2002 models? This hood light works well and provides plenty of light to check fuilds in the darkest conditions.
    The hood insulation was not an option for the Sport. I have driven a SLT, and found no noise differences. The stock 4.7L is a very quiet engine. My old 92 Dakota Sport also had no hood insulation. Never had a problem with paint cracking, pealing, etc.
    The supposed "engine roar" that some owners have complained about is normal for this truck. My 92 Dakota's cold-fan noise was much worse and lasted a lot longer (1-2 miles). Cooling is better with new Dakota. The 92's fan came on a lot when running the AC in town. This new Sport's fan makes less noise, and the noise only last a few blocks.
  • Options
    gator72gator72 Member Posts: 115
    It's been a while since I've posted. (In October 2000, I bought a 2001 QC SLT-Plus, 4.7L, 2-WD, auto, T&H pack., H.D. pack., etc.)

    I still have the creaking/popping noise coming from the passenger-side front wheel area when making right turns and applying the brakes. Additionally, it has started slight creaking when turning to the left. When I turn left into my driveway, the front end will occasionally make a loud popping noise.

    Went to the FIVE-STAR dealer that sold me the QC. Same B.S. - this is "normal" for Dakotas.

    Frankly, my QC sounds like a 10 year old pickup in dire need of a front-end job!

    I love my 2001 QC. But, I have lost some confidence due to the front end noises. The noises are getting so bad that I'm hesitant to take a long trip.

    I bought my QC from a dealer in the next county because they seemed friendlier. But, now, they seem oblivious to service.

    Have any of you taken your QC's in for warranty service to a dealer other than your seller? If so, how were you treated?
  • Options
    bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    3425 miles on truck now.
    Last tank of gas got 18.5 mpg. Best so far. Had a little more highway travel on that one.
  • Options
    nortx01qcnortx01qc Member Posts: 37
    I see Florida is going to overhaul their voting system--

    That Bookitty works fast......................
  • Options
    zidctlrzidctlr Member Posts: 46
    Does anyone know what the vents that are located on the back wall or the quad cab are for. Seems to let in some road noise.
  • Options
    stvdmanstvdman Member Posts: 62
    Well a little while back Iposted that I was VERY dissapointed that my brake rotors warped and the dealer wouldnt do anything about it. Well the wife went to chrysler.com and e-mailed the customer service dept. Well a week later we have new rotors on the Quad. Chrysler sent a letter down to the dealer asking them to resolve the complaint. So they installed the new rotors absolutely for free.

    I guess you just have to keep going up higher and higher untill there is no more room.

    GATOR- your front end problem is very similar to mine with one exception. I get a popping noise form the front drivers side when making a left hand turn while applying the brakes. I only notice it while going very slow(less than 10mph)I can feel it very slightly through the steering wheel also. I havent noticed it since getting the new rotors installed but that doesent mean it was fixed due to that. Its only been a couple days since getting that done.

    I am now HAPPY again with my Quad and the chrysler warranty/service program. I just hope these rotors last longer than the brake pads.
  • Options
    ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    OK - Bad news first. 87 oct. gas hit $1.93 yesterday in SW Michigan. Last year we hit $2.09 in June. ($42.00 to fill the truck up)
    At least the weather has warmed up so that my MPG has jumped around 2 MPG. After 26,000 miles I have a life average of 21.8 MPG. Your MPG does improve after 7,000 miles for those who haven't hit that mile mark yet. As much as I would of liked to of had a 4x4, it's nice getting the extra MPG with the 2X4 (4.7 5spd 3.55lsd). For the record my best MPG is 24.2 over 511 miles on one tank.
  • Options
    egaquamanegaquaman Member Posts: 19
    Just so everybody doesn't feel too bad. In Toronto today, gas is $3.20 per gallon. I'm getting about 14.5 mpg with my SLT 4x4 5sp 4.7. Heavy foot? You bet.

    That works out to a whopping 22 cents per mile of fun.

    By the way. I just returned my poplock to the accessories dealer. After 2 months, almost all of the paint had flaked off and large rust spots were appearing. Instead I've decided to install a sign that reads "PLEASE DON'T STEAL ME"
  • Options
    maceymacey Member Posts: 59
    Under light or normal load, what tire pressure is everyone running on their DAK QCs with P265/70R16 tires?

    I just checked and the dealer had them set at 35psi front and 41psi rear...way too much.

    The manual says 30 front and 30 rear, this seems too low, soft, and would promote bad MPG.

    Currently have all 4 at 35psi on my AWD DAK QC

    BTW, should I be concerned that the sticker on the driver door doesn't list my tire size, only lists up to P235s.

    Also, after install of ARE's LSII fiberglass tonneau cover with sport wing, what is the best tire pressure for the rear tires due to the extra 110 pounds or so?

    Thanks in advance.

    HAVE YOU HAD YOUR V8 TODAY!!!
  • Options
    cowtownaggiecowtownaggie Member Posts: 39
    To the best of my knowledge, the vents in the rear of the cab are for pressure equalization in the cab. i.e.: when you close the door, it does not create an "over pressure" occurrence & fail to latch. Theoretically, you do not have to "slam" the door shut.

    Now if I can just teach my kids that . . . . . *sigh*

    Cowtown Aggie
  • Options
    zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    For those who have had brake problems, I sure would like some advice. I have a 4.7L, auto, 2wd, QC Sport with T&H pkg, 3700 miles on it. More and more often, I hear a 'squeal' as I slow down (heard on the left side). Used to happen as I braked from 60 mph, now I hear it as I slow from 40. Noise only occurs upon initial depression of pedal, not all the way till I stop. No vibration on the brake pedal, no pulling, or anything. Could this be pads or rotors as some of you have had problems with?
  • Options
    ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    Zonk.. FWIW. I still have "chirping" brakes, both sides, as best as I can tell. NO shudder, vibration of any kind. I also have slight grooves in both rotors which the dealer said was normal..(typical dealer response..!) Anyway I have pulled the caliper away from the rotor, saw no unusual pad condition.. just the slight grooves. I cleaned all parts with a brake spray cleaner.. and chirping went away for a day or 2. Now my chirp is back. I am going to replace pads with a quality brand soon such as Performance Friction ($48).. and have rotors turned at my expense ($6 ea). Good Luck and keep us informed
  • Options
    gsu1gsu1 Member Posts: 43
    I want to put on either a Roll-n-Lock or the Pace Edwards, does anyone have one of these and what is your opinion on them. The Roll-n-Lock is $200 more is it worth the extra money. Any input would be great.
  • Options
    tmatthewtmatthew Member Posts: 26
    My QC 4X4, 4.7, auto came with puny 235.75 tires so I upgraded to 10.5 X 15 pirrelli scorpians.....much better but my speedometer was off. I asked the 5 star dealer to swith the comp to fix this as I had read here that it was an easy adjustment and only a few $$. He alomst laughed and said no way. They would have to get into the rear end and change some gears. wanted a lot of $$$. I stuck by my guns and insisted he make some calls...he came back in a few min and sheepishly said that it was indeed a quick comp adjustment and said he would do it for $30. Now my speedometer/odometer is dead on...Thanks for the info board!!!
    There is nothing like the internet for exchanging info. How did we ever live without it.!!


    Some pics of my truck...13K and all is well


    Http://home.mindspring.com/~tommat1/index.html

  • Options
    bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Actually, I'm overhauling Florida.
  • Options
    stnickstnick Member Posts: 177
    Those vents are also for flow thru ventalation, many cars have that feature. Air flows in through the intake system, and has somewhere to exhaust when the windows are up. Stnick
  • Options
    saskquadsaskquad Member Posts: 24
    Brake squeal comes from the pads vibrating against your calipers when the brakes are applied. This usually happens the worst when the rotors get glazed or shiny . There are many compounds(elastrometric) on the market which can be applied to the back of the pad where it contacts the caliper and piston to stop this high frequency vibration .( ie. disc brake quiet , comes in a spray can ) If you have your rotors off or can get at them while installed , you can remove some of the glazing with a medium grit emery cloth or sand paper ( a shop could do it with a beaded deglazing brush ). I am not an expert but this has worked well for me on any brakes I've done for myself and others. The fan roar you hear when cold is normal for a viscous drive fan clucth , it takes some time to disengage , if it continues to roar all the time or if you can't spin it by hand with the engine off (it will have some resistance ) you do have a problem , fan hub bearings are seized. These trucks also come with an electric fan that runs with the A/C on , It's quite loud when idling. Gas here in Sask. is 74.9 cents per litre or about $ 3.00 per U.S. gal. It may hit $ 4.00 by summer ! ouch I avg. 18 mpg last tank on 4.7 4x2 auto 3.55 mixed driving 1000 m on truck. Happy Quading !
  • Options
    stnickstnick Member Posts: 177
    Wally, I have the Pace and it is a good unit. The only complaint have is if your running down the road at 60+ and there is a strong wind, it tends to bounce at the back a little. Has never been a problem though. I believe the roll and lock attaches to the tailgate eliminating the need for a tailgate lock, but also means you can't just open the gate without unlocking the roll top. With Pace E you can open just the tailgate to slide something in the bed without fussing with the topper. Hope this helps you, Stnick.
  • Options
    cfpappascfpappas Member Posts: 2
    have a 2000 Dakota QC , V8, 4X4, 6800 miles.
    why would the check engine lite come on and stay on. the engine sounds normal and acts normal. today is saturday and no dealers service are open.

    this occured yesterday after i washed the truck.
    anybody??????

    chris
  • Options
    biglucybiglucy Member Posts: 140
    Hey boo,
    While you're down there, could you get marijuana legalized??? I'm working on a natural fuel made from hemp... really!!!
  • Options
    bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    I have a Roll-N-Lock installed on my 2001 CC. Nick is correct, you would have to drill and mount and extrusion on your tailgate that locks the gate to the cover. I paid $745 and installed it myself. It works good, the quality is excellent and looks great. It is not completely waterproof but keeps out most of the water. All of the metal parts are aluminum or stainless and the only non-metal part is the vinyl cover. I have not seen a Pace unit close up but I think they are very similar except for the tailgate lock.
  • Options
    urban3urban3 Member Posts: 74
    My understanding...

    Some problem has been signaled to a computer control module causing it to turn on the check engine light. It could be any number of sensors or conditions. The dealer or auto service center should be able to do a computer diagnostic check to determine what caused the light to come on.

    I think the best (easiest and safest) thing to do would be to take it to the dealer. But if you want to try to do something about it right away you might be able to find a service center with a diagnostic device to help you. You would just have to make sure the device knows the codes for your make/model/year.

    This just happenned on my 1990 Mecury wagon (which will hopefully be replaced by a QC). The light came on and the dealer couldn't get me in for a couple of days. I looked in the phonebook, called a couple of places that mentioned computer diagnostic tests and a Shell auto center got me in later that day.

    They had a device (I believe from Snap-On), hooked it up, punched in some parameters and ran a couple of tests. Turned out to be a throttle position sensor. It was on top and easy enough to get to so I replaced it myself. The test cost $70 (wow) and the part was $29 at Trax Auto. But I don't think I could have gotten away from the dealer for less than that.

    Also the check engine light on my wife's '97 Century came on while under warranty. Took it to the dealer and it turned out to be caused by the gas cap not being closed all the way! No charge for that one (thankfully). Today's vehicles are very sensitive I guess.

    Good luck.
  • Options
    amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    The CEL will come on if you gas the truck up while the engine is running. The computer must sense a change on the venting system and log that as an error code. It happened to me and after a good run on the highway, the light went out. Shut off your motor when gassing up!!
  • Options
    namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    Thanks to putting the wrong locking gas cap on my new club cab, forum members directed me to a site that shows you how to retrieve the code and see what it means. Use the following links


    http://www.batauto.com/Chrysler.html


    This one will tell you how. The on/off/on/off/on method will display the fault code in the odometer.


    http://www.batauto.com/Pcodes.html


    This one tells you what they mean. For example for mine I got P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak) . Which basically means the gas cap wasn't sealing.


    Speaking of gas caps. If the cap isn't put on right you'll get an error.

  • Options
    kojak3kojak3 Member Posts: 25
    Zonk,

    I've got the same problem with the brakes making the noise on my 01 Dak. Went to the dealer to get my free oil change and had them look at it. of course--no problem found. The service dude took it for a ride and said he didn't hear anything. I asked him if the Q-tips he uses have cotton on the ends. Then he gave me the song and dance about how Dodge's pads have metal in them ...yadda yadda yadda.

    I'm going to give it another few weeks and see what happens and then I'm going back. I didn't have time to argue with him because I had my 8-month old daughter with me and needed to get going.

    Its a five star dealer so I expected them to at least pull the wheels off.

    If I have to, I'll fix it myself. But, after paying big money for a new truck I expect it to not sound like Fred Sanford's truck!!

    Cheers
    Kojak
  • Options
    bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Bob, marijuana isn't legal? Wow, talk about surprises!

    Bookitty
  • Options
    cbkidcbkid Member Posts: 6
    OK, here is a question. I have 4.7L 4x4 and I have friend who got the 5.9L 4x4 and he was told it is better for towing, which maybe true, but he only towes a few things. Like a horse trailer or pontune boat every now and then. Isn't the 4.7L all around better?

    What's the big difference?
  • Options
    atokadatokad Member Posts: 30
    Hey guys...Does anyone know where I can get the GOOD doubled sided tape..like the kind they use for moldings and emblems for cars/trucks?? I have to re-attach a abs bed rail cap and tried the regular 3m tape (Walmart) but it is not holding the cap down.


    Thanks
  • Options
    namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    The 5.9 in general has more torque. This helps when towing big and/or heavy items. For towing lighter weights it doesn't really make too much difference.

    The 4.7 is a new technology engine vs the 5.9 which in basic form has been in use since 1967 as the 318 and 340.

    Being a newer technology engine it has fewer moving parts, lighter weight and more easily meets the EPA requirements.

    The 5.9 has the advantage of having a good history, parts availability is good.

    There isn't really an answer to which one is better. It all depends on what you want and what you intend to do with it.

    Sport vs. SLT. This is mainly a trim package issue. The sport is geared more to those who want the basics. The SLT is geared more toward those who want all the bells and whistles. I have SLTs. I priced out Sports to see if I could save money. For the way I wanted them equipted the SLT was the better deal.

    To me it comes down to whether you like the painted front end and bumpers or want the chrome front end and bumpers. That is the only "real" difference.
  • Options
    steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    The 5.9 is an excellent tow engine because it has a flat torque curve. However, if a person needed the 5.9, he is better off getting it in a full size Ram because it would be a more practical package to go with the engine. The reason why the 5.9 does not increase the tow limit on the Dak very much is the chassis limitations. For those who do occasional towing and are under the tow limit of the dakota, the 4.7 is a more practical engine. It is quicker, more efficient and tows great.
  • Options
    zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    Thanks to ahasher, saskquad, and kojak3 (hope I didn't leave anyone out) for their answers to my brake squeal or chirp problem. I am going to take it in to the Dodge dealer (not a 5 star and who doesn't have a real good reputation) and see what they say. Having said that, most Dodge owners around here take their vehicles to the Jeep/Chrysler dealer (5 star) just next door to the Dodge for their work. So, if Dodge doesn't help me I'll try the Jeep; they have treated us very well when we have taken our GC in for work. I'll keep you posted. Other than that, no problems; gas mileage still climbing to almost 15 in town and to/from work. Love this truck!
  • Options
    iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    When I was pricing my options on a 2000 Quad cab one of the things I looked at was insurance. I knew a 4x4 would be higher than a 4x2 but never dreamed the Sport would cost more than the SLT to insure. This was through State Farm in Iowa. I really didn't care which model I got so went for the "cheaper" insurance rates with the SLT. Rick
  • Options
    namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    There shouldn't be any insurance cost difference. The engines are the same and the equipment packages about the same.

    I guess State Farm thinks that because the truck has the name "Sport" on it that you will be a teen age hot rodder. I think State Farm is taking you for a ride.

    I wonder what they would have charged you for a Dakota R/T?

    I have AAA and there is no difference in cost. In fact because I went from a 4 passenger car to a 2 passenger truck (club cab) my insurance went down a little because of less liability risk. BTW, I also asked about the R/T as I considered buying one. gain no difference in costs. No hi performance surchange on the truck.
  • Options
    bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Ray, Rick is a teen age hot rodder. Or didn't you know?

    Bookitty
  • Options
    urban3urban3 Member Posts: 74
    Did I read something here about a free manual with a new QC? Does anyone recall a post(s) about such an item? If so, could you share the info again?
  • Options
    zidctlrzidctlr Member Posts: 46
    what is the best way to upgrade the sound system and leave the factory hed unit in?
  • Options
    biglucybiglucy Member Posts: 140
    A number of folks have attempted to get the $100 Dakota service manual thrown in with their purchase, try if you can... The order info to purchase the service manual is on the last page of the owner's manual.
  • Options
    namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    Check out recent back issues of Sport Truck mag or Truckin'(don't remember which) one of these had an article on upgrading the Dakota sound system while keeping the factory head which was the AM/FM/Cassette/CD Changer Controls unit.

    Basically they felt the head was a good unit but added a new power amp to boost things a bit.
  • Options
    ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Insurance companies often have different prices based on "badge". Back in '91 I bought a Mustang convertible "LX" with the 5.0L engine, because the insurance on a "LX" was hundreds less than a "GT". Open the hood and the engine parts had "GT" all over then, but the car was a "LX". The only difference in a 5.0 LX and 5.0 GT was the plastic around the bottom of the car.
  • Options
    slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    re:truck sitting lower on one side, my truck is a 4x2 so it doesnot have torsion bars, its has instead a coil spring/shock set up. whick to the best of my knowlege isnot height adjustable. thanks for the reply though i wish it was as easy as yours to adjust.
  • Options
    slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    has anyone that ownes a 2wd q/c had the service 4wd light come on? is so what was the dealers answer as to why? and what was the fix?
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles