By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Personally, I will never take another vehicle with ABS again. Not until they design a system that comes into play only when the pedal is pushed hard for over a certain period of time and I don't mean milliseconds.
I have also talked to others who have experienced the same thing with ABS.
If you live in the country, maybe you can get away with ABS but in the metro areas, fuggetaboutit.
By not 'whining', does that make the QC problems go away? Or should one just wear blinders and overlook problems?
What do you do for a living?
What status do you think DAK QCs owners are trying to achieve buy owning one?
It may be safe to say not one manufacture can make every model trouble free, but reading the various NGs and boards, seems to indicate DC has a problem on their hands with QC...I for one don't want to spend my hard(days) earned money on something that isn't right from day 1...do you?
DCs biggest problem has always been its dealer service. This can make or break your opinion of a DC product.
I have worked on MB as well as others when I worked on cars, they aren't built any better than a Dodge. It is just that the dealer makes you feel better while he is doing it to you.
DC products are no worse than anyone else's including the Japanese. There are good ones and bad ones in each makers line.
Quite frankly the best thing we as consumers can do is do things like take these posts and forward them to the manufacturers and let them know that we are tired of accepting excuses. That we pay good money and expect defect free products.
I don't care if I have a Geo Metro, if it makes a noise that shouldn't be there I expect it to be fixed the same as if I owned a MB 600SEL. The price or type of vehicle makes no difference.
Personally, I buy Dodge because I have found them for me to be good vehicles (Except for ABS that don't stop the vehicle). As well as meeting my needs.Just as long as I can keep them out of the dealer's mechanics hands. I usually can't wait for the waranty to expire so I can take my vehicles to a mechanic who knows how to do the job right....The first time.
I also agree with what Namfflow says regarding who services a vehicle. The best and cost effective non-b/s service I've gotten on any of my foreign and domestic vehicles has been through trustworthy INDEPENDENT mechanics. My Montero was royally screwed up by not less than 2 dealers in Dallas who had no clue how to service my vehicle. Prior to that, it was 100% problem free while it was serviced by a very good independent mechanic in California.
Regarding 4wheel ABS, this was an option I wish I had on my QC, although I doubt it is absolutely necessary. All of my vehicles since 1990 have had this feature. While it does lengthen the stopping distance in some cases, I like being able to manuever around obstacles (ie. other cars) under slippery conditions. So far, however, I've only locked up my QC's brakes once. And even when I did so, I just pumped the brakes like you're supposed to and everything was fine. So I guess it really comes down to preference and price. For my money, I'd buy it if I were ordering a QC just to be on the safe side. But I don't think it is fatal if you don't have it either.
Also is there anyone out there who works for Ameritech in Michigan who can tell me what the company code is for Dodge with Ameritech so I can get the Suppliers Discount from DC...I've been unable till now to find anyone at DC or Ameritech who can tell me what it is.
Thanks in advance for any help in this matter.
I have also noticed that the brake problem (warped rotors) is more prevelant in the south when the air temps start heating up. HMMMMMMMMM?
No problem with the ABS in city driving, in my experience. This truck stops pretty darn quick.
Good luck,
Bob
I know that if I found something wrong with my truck I to would be making certain that it was repaired . But! Some of the issues that people discuss probably do not stop the functionality of the vehicle. Is the axle offset really a problem? Was anyone not able to use their truck because of it? I think not? Did it cause alignment problems? Did it cause irregular tread wear? Was it a vehicle safety issue?
Are these quality control issues or are the individuals expectations of the vehicle just too much?
Thanks for listening and sorry to have upset you but I just wanted to voice my opinion.
You didn't upset me, just raised my eyebrows re: people who whine about QC don't put a hard days work in.
When spending $25K on something, one would hope that product is perfect and free of defects, and if not, it gets fixed right the first time, and is a final fix.
Me personally, I would hate to look at a bright, new, shinny truck and either have to leave it at the dealer to fix or order something the factory forgot, or drive it away, knowing that the truck would have to go back real soon to fix something.
BTW, I read a post on another board, that the offset axle, after 1500 miles, required a new alignment as tires were flaring badly, one gent reported his truck was pulling to the right.
I think these are indeed QC issues, yet, I do set me expectations high. True, functionality of the vehicle may not be compromised, but form over function is...
Thanks.
My 2001 Quad had a similar problem. As a matter of fact a lot of folks had this problem. My rear end whine only happened between 55 and 60 mph only with my foot off the accelerator. On other trucks it happened on lower speeds with you foot on the accelerator. It was crazy..
It turn out that my Ring and Pinion needed to be replaced. That's what I was told when I posted the same question on this board several months ago. It turned out to be true. The dealer identified it as the same thing and put the new parts in. I haven't had the problem (noise) since.
Steve
teeker,teeker,teeker,teeker
Since August of 2000, the rebate program has been extended in various forms, 14 different times. At the moment, no comment from DC if the rebate will be extended, increased above $2000 (with buyers who pick up their factory ordered vehicles after 5/1, getting that increase), decreases, or is suspended.
Once your truck arrives at the dealer, you must pick it up within 5 days (I asked this as my truck is due around end of month)
FWIW, the normal DC 800 number Customer Service folks are still putting out wrong info about the rebates, they are still saying you must take delivery by 4/30, where as the folks at the rebate hot line say if you put a deposit down before 4/30, have your name on a sales invoice, and get a VON (Vehicle Order Number), you qualify for the rebate, even if your truck comes in after the current end date of the rebate program (4/30)
Is the 5.9/46RFE a more stable (older) platform?
Are there any reliability or maintenance issues or differences?
Just asking to gather info for a purchase.
urban3 - the 5.9L with 46RE is definitely an older platform. But I have found little to no information about problems with this platform on this board or the DML, either with regular 5.9's or with R/T's. However, I believe the majority of people have the 4.7L engine. That's why you may see more discussions about problems etc. with this platform. The most prevalent problem I read about is the rear end noise problem and problems with the auto trans learning the driver's driving habits. Otherwise, I understand the 4.7 is a kick_ss platform. There aren't as many performance mods available for this engine as the 5.9, but performance shops like Mike Leach & Co. have told me that between the 2 engines, the 4.7 performs better for run-of-the-mill driving. Having said this, I have had no problems yet with the 5.9/46RE platform and the performance is very very good.
Based on a recommendation from a previous message, I checked out the NHTSA web site, http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov. There is a technical service bulletin-030700 sequence no. 146
NHTSA 2001 SB614649 on noise in drive train. I mentioned this to the dealer on the first oil change. Parts are now being ordered to correct the noise problem.
As for noise coming from the front, I found a technical service bulletin for the 2000 model year, NHTSA 2000 SB610019 service bulletin 130100
sequence no 999. I plan on bringing this one up when I take it in to get the rear repaired.
Recently I've noticed a popping feeling in the steering column. Low and behold on the NHTSA site is another bulletin, Summary: EXPERIENCING A POPPING SENSATION / SOUND FELT AND / OR HEARD IN THE STEERING, Service Bulletin Number: 1900900
Bulletin Sequence Number: 167 Date of Bulletin: 0012 NHTSA Item Number: SB616728.
In defense of the dealers, they service your vehicle and repair things based on their knowledge. Unfortunately they can't spend all day trying to figure out your problem. Trust me from previous experience with a Ford dealer when they do that the costs are transferred to you.
Check out the NHTSA site on a regular basis. The problems you are experiencing may be there. When you go to the dealer take the bulletin number with you and let them know that you know about it. Be patient and keep after them. None of the problems I have experienced have stopped me from using my Dakota.
Just wondering, but where the heck are you driving over 100 MPH?!? On second thought, It's best that you don't divulge that info! Have you looked into DC's "Stealth" exterior paint with heat shielding?!?
hahahha!
like OK and possibly HI and AK. Any problems, let me know.
Bookitty
Can't remember the post but to say the least there are lots of discussions here on Dodge brakes and I offer this: Join the crowd! I am one of those with my truck BACK at the dealer with 14K and warped rotors. This is the second set on there and yea I know there are hills in PA but so what? You'll find hills anywhere you go unless its Kansas or something. Anyway, here's some food for thought:
Ever since NAFTA was implemented more and more auto suppliers have set up shop down there to take advantage of the cheap labor. Own a RAM? Your leaf springs came from San Luis Rassini in Saltillo. Next time you lift the hood on your Dakota, check the throttle position sensor, the cam reference sensor, the Idle seed motor, the MAP sensor and the little gizmo attached to the power steering pump: All are from Mexico. And speaking of brakes, the drums and rotors are courtesy of Bendix be Mexico. Yes, I saw MEXICO stamped on the inner hub of my original and replacement rotors as well as the replacement drums. Got ride quality issues? Check your shocks, mine are from Brazil. Got a beef with the electrical system? Weird shorts, or other funky stuff going on? Your wiring harness came to Warren michigan assembly courtesy of Thailand.
SOme of you wondered what happened to the v-8 magnum engine badges. Ask the bean counter at Chrysler; those things cost money and doing away with them saves $$$ which=bonus for the guy who thought it okay to take them away.
REsult? Sub standard manufacturing quality and a shuddering front end when I slow down. Never knew my truck would try to imitate a paint shaker.
Try drinking coffee when that happens. Not a pretty sight.
Bottom line is this. In the never ending quest for profits and bonuses, there is a headlong race to the bottom of the barrel for whomever can produce the the cheapest. IF thats MExico, so be it, if Taiwan so be it. Never mind the quality. If it works in a test lab, fine. Let the user deal with the problems later.
I wrote a letter to Chrysler outlining some of the aforementioned points.
I'm still waiting for a reply.
At the end of the day, globalization is among us and unfortunately we have to deal with this situations. It may help someone's bottom line, but what about the poor slob who invests nearly half his income on a vehicle only to watch it start to fall apart before its paid off?
I'm unfortunately sitting behind the 8-ball on a car I'm currently leasing and have a crap load of negative equity that the dealer is willing to build back into the truck (Thank goodness for the 2,000 rebate!!!).
Should I worry about the absense of the 2 mentioned packages, or does the 4.7 in MOST instances have enough power to handle most towing jobs.
Thanks for all your advice.
What type of synthetic lube are you running in the front axle of your 4x4 and your 5sp manual xmision? I will be changing the front end and xmision fluids in my 4x4 again & if I remember correctly you are running synth in your vehicles (front axle & xmision). What did you chose (brands / oil weight / etc)? And have you had or do you anticipate any trouble with your dealer over using a "non-approved" lubrication?
Thanx for any info you may have!
Cowtown Aggie
Thank you
Bookitty
I do recommend getting the heavy duty service group. It doesn't cost much and is cheap insurance. It is always good to have extra cooling capacity. It helps to make vital components last longer.
Any time heavy duty service stuff is available it is a good idea to get it.
Also in my opinion, the 2000 lb payload at 180 bucks (msrp) is worth it just for the bigger rear brakes. The standard rear brakes whether you get ABS or not are 9 X 2.5 drums. With the 2000 lb package they are 11 X 2.
1) soft suspension - it's outstanding (plush) over the bumps at most speeds, but I found one quirk: when hitting certain medium (or large) sized bumps in a turn, the whole back end of the truck feels like it's kicking out - I've driven a lot of trucks, and ones with big tires, but never felt this before. But, I've never had a truck with this plush of a suspension, so I'm guessing that's the cause... comments anyone?
2) "shifty" tranny, but driveable - I do find myself changing my driving habits to make it work better but it's no big deal - it's all in the right foot...
3) mileage - close to the 14mpg mark - in mostly city/hilly western PA driving - I'll probably try a couple of mods to see it I can improve this a shade...
4) starter problem - the starter continues to run after motor starts - it's happened 3 times, but very sporadically- dealer couldn't find problem after 1st visit- waiting to see what happens in the long run - hopefully it will either go away completely, or manifest itself - it's a little unnerving...
5) motor - sweet! could use a shade more low end sometimes - but splitting hairs here
overall, I love this thing. It's the perfect size for everyday driving, looks great, V8, blah, blah, blah... if I was listing my compliments, it would fill the whole bulletin board!
rck
Thanx,
Cowtown Aggie
I would also really like to know what synth recommendations on the front diff everyone is using?
robert
about putting on a 3"Gibson Side Swept Catback very soon.. and K&N intake/filter, and minor things.
I am still not sure if the cat-back would void my 3yr warranty?? as I have not see any posts on that.
I did read it was fine to put on another air filter assembly without voiding the factory warranty.
My last 98 Dakota had to have the cat replaced by the dealer (11k miles) because of loose baffles, and I do not want to have to pay for a new cat if the factory installed one blows out again
if the dealership voids my warranty on the exhaust portion..
Besides,,,the dealership had to cut and weld my replacement cat in and I don't have welding equipment to do it myself.!. I should be thinking positively!! but have read many posts here and on the DML news group that the cat is STILL falling apart internally on occasion.. my luck it'll happen again.. Mr. Loser.
Anyway, Can't wait to be dodgetrukn again!
Thanks in advance for the help...
http://carrola.home.texas.net/dodge/DakStereo.html has excelent info on swapping the head unit but I want to be informed before going to the local shops to audition speakers. And yes, I know all about Crutchfield, they don't appear to have install guides for the QC rear doors...
cheers,
twj
"No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name;..."
What this means is that Ford, or any other manufacturer, cannot condition coverage under warranty to exclusive use of OEM parts. However, it does not allow blanket warranty coverage for all aftermarket parts. Only if the aftermarket parts work in the same way as the original parts did and do not alter the vehicle's operation, is there mandated warranty coverage. If the aftermarket parts are not true "replacement" parts, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act does not apply.
An example is this- if you use a Napa oil filter, or Bosch spark plugs, or a Fram air filter, it will not void your warranty. These parts are not made by Ford, but they do not change the way the vehicle works. Ford cannot force you to use Ford products.
However, if you use an aftermarket chip which alters fuel delivery and timing, or an exhaust system which lowers back pressure, or a supercharger, you alter the way the vehicle operates. These are not "replacement" parts. They are significantly different from Ford, or OEM parts. Denial of warranty coverage is proper under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, because the denial is not because it is not an OEM part, it is because the part does not work within the same parameters as the OEM part and alters the operation of the vehicle.
Whether or not the part caused the problem is irrelevant. You can like it or not or think it's stupid, but the law is the law.
Will JET Performance tuning void my warranty?
No. Federal law prohibits a dealer from voiding your warranty just because you are using aftermarket speed equipment, with only two exceptions: the warranty can be voided if the aftermarket part causes damage or adversely affects the emissions or the emissions system. In recent documents produced by the SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association), a trade association-representing specialty automotive parts manufacturers, and the following quotes have been extracted:
"The vehicle manufacturer is not allowed to void the vehicle warranty just because aftermarket equipment is installed on the vehicle. This protection for consumers is the result of a parts self-certification program developed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA).
"Under the program, if a parts maker completes the EPA process of self-certifying its parts, the vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty even if the certified part has failed and is directly responsible for the warranty claim. In cases where such a failed aftermarket part is responsible for a warranty claim, the manufacturer must arrange a settlement with the part manufacturer, but the new vehicle warrant is not void under the law.
"If the failure to honor a claim involves the new-vehicle warranty, and it appears that the manufacturer is improperly denying a claim, the incident should be reported to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). The FTC is responsible for monitoring compliance with the warranty law; the agency's telephone number is 202/326-3128."
BTW, the paperwork that comes with Gibson's Single Swept Catback says that the system is "in compliance with VC27156 when installed behind the catalytic converter. No exemption number is needed."
Again, I'm only reiterating what these manufacturers have claimed. Whether this information is correct is for you and your attorney to decide!
Those of you with the sliding window, do you use/enjoy it? Or is it too far out of reach to be useful? Does the rear window get fogged up?
Thanks.
Bookitty
I have a few problems with my new Quad Cab, but I won't detail them here again, lest some think I may be whining (or that I don't bust my butt at work every day).
I instead would just ask those who have had to fight with DC, and received positive outcome, to please help me with this question...
What is the chain of command when dealing with warranty and quality issues? So far I've gone through Service Manager, Dealership Owner, and District Rep. Who is next that can give me results?
Should I move on to outside authorities?(and who would they be?) Or is there still a chance to resolve these issues with some higher-up at Chrysler?
Thanks so much--appreciate all the informative posts
run down on my buy back:
they will pay me every cent back that i bought the truck for, pay me full price with receipt for any accessories i added. then i have to pay the msrp price difference on my truck and the new one which is 4 grand since i am getting a few other things this time. then i have to pay .15 per mile for use of the truck. bottom line my payment is about 500.00 now and once the dust settles i will have driven the truck for about 410.00 per month for the last 18 or so months. when you add the 4 grand and the .15 per mile divided by 18. thats a great 18 month lease rate LOL...
any questions please feel free to ask
good luck and sorry so long
robert
My understanding is that the slider has a darker tint than the plain window. This is why I ordered it. I have the slider in my 97 Club Cab and have never opened it. Don't know if I'll ever open it or the one in my new Dakota. I like the heated mirrors. The mirrors are more important to me for seeing what is happeninmg around me than the window is.
As far as I know the slider is not available with defroster. To get the defroster, you have to get the power windows too. I did not want power windows myself.
I wish it were a power slider because it is too far to reach from the driver's seat.
Personally, I would not mess with the exhaust until the warranty time has expired, but thats me.
Truck runs great as is, so I'm not sure if there is a lot of performance gain with an aftermarket exhaust.
Good luck,
Bob
What comment do you have on the 3.92 rear axle ratio and limited slip differential? I believe I understand the purpose of these options; I'm more interested in feedback from your actual experience.
Thanks again.
Is the d/c rep you talk about the same as a "District Rep"?
Who should I be mailing certified letters to specifically? Dealership owner? Detriot?(Which Office?)
And finally, who to contact about arbitration? DC or BBB?
-thanks for your time
-Q.
Bookitty
i hope it all works out for you and hopefully d/c will be as good to you as they have been to me so far.
robert