Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Jeep Liberty Engine and Performance Problems

tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
We're consolidating similar discussions into this topic for your conveniences.

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper


  • rjbushrjbush Posts: 1
    My 2004 Liberty has been diagnosed by a mechanic with no power to the O2 sensor heating element which causes the engine light to come on. We have not found a wiring diagram for this. Can anyone help?
  • This is a 2006 Jeep Liberty sport 24000miles 3.7l
    Ok I was trying to merge onto beltway\highway traffic when I started to push the gas petal the ESP light started flashing {was not currently on}
    On and off {on the dash} and the car lost total power and started to decelerate {rpms stayed the same even know the petal was floored and there was no speed increase}. This lasted about 18sec. Then the rpms shot through the roof and the truck took off and the light stopped flashing. Conditions on the road were warm and dry. This seems to happen every morning now and afternoon and never when I have the service mang. in the car. They ran the computers and found no error codes. Has anyone else had this problem? I need some help because the dealership can't do anything unless the computer leaves an error code and my jeep may leave me in a situation that may leave me dead

    Ok if you have any info at all that might help me please post asap I am going to meet the head of Jeep's service department tomorrow and any other experiences with this or solutions I can offer him will be a great help. Also, I have found this problem usually happens when the jeep has either sat over night or all day while I work. If you turn the ESP on with the button on the steering column It seems to fix the problem but when you turn it back off it will start again for aprox 15 to 17 sec. I’ve counted
  • I got the dealership to finally agree that there was a problem and take my liberty in. Just 1 day later I have been told that it is fixed and that the problem was caused by the left rear wheel sensor.
    This morning on the way to work again when merging into traffic the ESP light started flashing and the same problem. This time it lasted only a few seconds. I am doubting myself slightly because it was misting\ light rain out. the possablity is there that the ESP system was doing what it was supose to.
    I will update after this weekend and let the fourm know if it happens again and if it really was the rear wheel sensor.
    I will say for a 5 star dealership I am very disapointed ! I have been disrespected, lied to ,and basiclly given the run around. :(
  • Looks like the left rear wheel speed sensor wasn't the fix I had hoped for.
    Last night going to dinner, it happens again. Just tiring to accelerate on the highway and ESP light started flashing and loss of gas peddle and it seemed like the jeep was breaking. This was going on and off for about 5 miles. I did notice that when you turn on the ESP you do get back little control. Well its back to the dealer Monday.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    electrick: The ESP is on all 2006 Liberty's. The CRD is totally computer controled, and perhaps, they may have incorperated the esp into that control system. You might call some other 5 Star dealers and see if there might be a better quality service tec's. Hope this works for you.

  • The manual doesn't help at all... How do I re-prime? We are stuck in Ohio, the car doesn't start....Argh!!!!!
  • I would suggest to get a 11mm wrench. Make sure the tank is not empty, or why are you priming it in the first place? Anyways, pump the hand pump on the filter assembly till it gets harder to pump. Bled the air out by opening th the little nipple on the side of the fuel filter with the 11mm wrench but close it before the air stops coming out. Repeat the pump till it gets hard and letting the air out till bubble free fuel comes out. Just like the air shut the nibble off before it stops flowing. By the way use a long hose like a oversized aquarium hose on the end of the nipple to a container below the the jeep, or some rags to catch the fuel. Or one will smell fuel for a few days. Make sure the air nipple is closed tight and try to start it again. Might suggest putting the battery on a charger if you have tried to crank it a bunch.
  • Hubby let the fuel get too low, then put a Bio/regular diesel mix. I think since it was so cold, the bio would not let the fuel flow. We ended up having it towed to a garage which was heated. The mech. did almost exactly what you said. But it really needed to be out of the cold for a while too. He suggests changing the fuel filter, who knows what it is going to look like now.

    thanks...sorry to freak was freezing on the Ohio turnpike

    We have had so many issues already with this vehicle. Our turbo went bad and stranded us in Virgina. The parts were on back order, so the jeep had already been in the shop for a month. thanks much
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Hi Anabelle,

    I was wondering if you know why your turbo failed? Were you following the turbo cool down procedure according the the owner's manual - such as letting the engine idle for 3 or 4 minutes before shutting it off after pulling off the interstate on a hot day? Was it just defective? Thanks in advance for your response.
  • Hi,
    I had put in some diesel fuel additive to allow the fuel to work in -20 degree weather and still had engine problems the next day. I purged the line and all worked OK..

    I would like to add:
    1) Be sure to get an open-end wrench. I had an 11-mm socket and it wasn't long enough... Ooops.

    2) Also, a paper cup can be used to hold fuel when pumping out the fuel line. I dumped the fuel into my used oil for disposal...

    3) One last "Doh!": I took the oil filler cap off - and engine cover off to get to the fuel separator. DON'T forget (like I did) to put the oil filler cap back on when test-starting the engine. You can get covered with a fine, black oil spray.

    I was very lucky that I had some coffee and talked over the most common diesel problems with the mechanic at the Jeep dealership beforehand. He said that air in the fuel line was the #1 problem - and purging the line was relatively easy.

    Hope this helps...
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Don't use Biodiesel above 5% in a CRD engine. Biodiesel holds more moisture then #2 petroleum diesel. The high pressure at which these injectors work will cause any amount of water in liquid form to cut the injector tips. Then you will have to replace the injectors. The first sign of this happening would be poor fuel economy and an engine misfire at startup. I really don't recommend using biodiesel at all for this reason. When the quality issues related to biodiesel fuels are resolved, maybe. The air in the fuel issue won't be addressed by Jeep. Your going to have to bleed the system about once every 3000 miles or so. I will be changing my fuel lines to steel braided ones after the warranty is up. I will also add another heated fuel filter/water seperator when I replace this assembly with a dual filter assembly with the fuel lines. It has been almost two years since I bought my CRD. The EGR issue has turned out to be related to LSD, Turbo Boost Sensors clogging and dumb dealership mechanics shot gunning repairs. The shudder is air in the fuel system which also causes damage to the trans and torque converter. I believe the issues are about over and as Farout says we were used as a test market to bring the DCX US dealerships up to speed with small diesels. I for one know diesels and love my CRD. It has met all my expectations. The Dealerships failed big. Good luck.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    goodcrd: What is a LSD? I know it was a drug long ago, and it might be Latter Day Saints, which none of these fit with a CRD.
    When we hear back from DCX about what they intend to do we have studied this inside and out, and we want the problems fixed. There is no reason to have to spend a dine for them to make it up to standard. What is odd iis the engine is not the big problem it's little things related to the rest of the vehicle. Our fuel gage stays at 3/4 full when it won't take another drop. This will make the 5th sending unite they will have had to replace. This problem is not the CRD's fault. Some how it's easy to jumble all the problems up and lump it all together.
    We have had a jerkiness in the engine from day one. Is this what others call shudder?
    We like the 4 cyc. engine, we think it helps our earth's air. Instead of a HEMI, less not more power makes more sense. I want good fuel mpg and I have had several Neons that got 32+ mpg. We still have a Dodge Neon with 193,800 miles on the original engine, The head gasket was a recall and when they did that ate 90,000+ miles we had the timing belt and water pump replaced at the same time. The Neon still gets 28+ mpg. Which beats the Caliber, Compass, and the Patriot. Where are the brains of these designers> The 3 cars get 23-26 mpg. Heck many of the CRD's do that and better.
    As I have said we are a "test Market" that is no longer a test. DCX has moved on the better toys. I hope Chrysler does split off, and I am of the opinion that who ever buys Chrysler, I won't be surprised if this isn't for the better. I just hope it's not a buyer from Korea or China. I think there was a huge mistake to make the Compass. The GC and Commander should be combined into one vehicle. Better to have 4 really outstanding vehicles than 6 that are low quality and are made of cheap plastic like the Caliber, Compass, Patriot, and the insides are really cheap looking, and feel below Korean quality! I think the Liberty has a good interior, except for the Iron Canvass they used for the seats.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    In the auto context, LSD means Limited Slip Differential.

    I suppose you could complain about your LSD not fitting into your cupholder (Large Soft Drink ;) ). Or if your CRD won't get up and go, it'll turn into a Low Speed Diesel. :shades:
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    LSD when referring to fuel is Low Sulfer Diesel. And Farout learn to bleed the air from your fuel system and see if the shutter goes away. Even you can do this procedure. Read all the posts on it.

    Good Luck
  • careybcareyb Posts: 4
    Traded in my wonderful 2002 liberty for a new 2007. Right from the start it seems to have some hesitation, especially at lower revs. At 1000kms I brought it in and they said it was running normal, that newer liberty's with the 3.7 runs leaner and so it has a feeling of sputtering/hesitation as it drives. It's true that that is the feeling while driving but its very annoying. Any way to fix this? The revs sometimes jump around while driving on level roads. Because no codes showed up when I took it in they say nothing to be done.... I really regret getting rid of my 2002.
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Posts: 33
    When I get my jeep back from the shop I am checking out my theory. That the jeep is designed or has a major flaw in the fuel lines. As in air gets into the fuel system too easy. Either by the plastic fuel lines contracting and shrinking around a poorly designed o ring or some other depressurization in the engine of the fuel rail when you shut down; a check valve might not be closing right. I am installing a clear house near the engine so I can see how much air is in the fuel will post more on this later. In a nutshell do not believe your dealer, they are tying to fix it the easy way by ignoring a real issue that might later be life threatening. (as in stalling out due to excessive air in the fuel) Does your state have a lemon law?
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Posts: 33
    My last comment was trying to reply back to you. Anyways here is a web site, reading some of the comments on the petition will give you a better understanding. I would recommend taking it back till it gets fixed. This can be a tough nut to crack as your saying something is wrong with your truck that the mechanic can’t find on a computer. Ask your mechanic how long he went to school. Did the teacher teach him or her to be a mechanic by using the codes or by troubleshooting? I wish you luck as frustrated and tired of being told [non-permissible content removed] to get me out the door with no codes and a vehicle sold that is not to standard instead of looking at what is wrong.
  • careybcareyb Posts: 4
    Thanks for the thought on air getting into the fuel. Looking at all the comments on this site about transmission related hesitation, maybe it is even trany related as there certainly is lots of hesitation when the engine is at lower rpms. What points me in the direction of engine vs trany is that the feeling that the engine is sputtering happens even at hwy speeds. but at lower speeds around town it is just much more noticeable.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    If I could bring my two cents worth of a thought here, I would like you folks to understand that the CRDs we get in the EU are not subject to these problems, at least they are not known to give problems. So where's the difference then? Is it a different group of employees who assemble the 'export' trucks? Could someone from the Toledo plant comment this?
    I doubt the fuel quality alone could justify so many issues. Every family here owns at least one diesel vehicle and dealerships no longer have dirty looking workshops. Most people buy their diesel fuel where it's cheapest, not where it's mixed with super high tech additives. The same applies to oil: people buy it in the supermarkets and the engines last forever ;)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Do you feel these hesitations when the A/C control and headlights are turned off?
  • careybcareyb Posts: 4
    yes, headlight and A/C are turned off. I guess, getting back to my 1st question.... being told that the new libertys run leaner and therefore have a tendancy to run a bit rougher (sputter/hesitate) it something I'm just not that willing to buy into for the next 5 years of owning it. If no one else has this problem then I will just have to be a constant thorn in their side hoping they can fix it. But combining the sense of sputtering with the way the trany seems to always be looking for the right gear in its quest to rev as low as possible combines for the less then perfect riding experience.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    sputter is normal, can it be?

    NO! It can be endemic to this particular year or model (based on CRD experience) but definitely not normal. If this were a 1960's car we would look at parts like the accelerator pump not squirting enough fuel, the vacuum advance sticking or not moving freely, centrifugal weights in the distributor not moving properly so not advancing the timing. Or even inaccurate timing or improper low speed jets in the carburetor - all things a corner garage could fix.

    What I would do is ask to drive another 2007 to see if they all do it. If they won't let you, go to another dealership. Verify for yourself that this is a common problem.

    These jeeps (like most everything else, now) are drive-by-wire. There is a rather cheesy position sensor in the gas pedal that may not be throwing a code but not reading properly. There is a throttle plate controller that may have the same issue. There are a number of sensors that might be performing marginally and not throwing a code. Just because there is no code does not mean the tech can't try something. It is a valid diagnostic to change out parts and change them back if there is no improvement.

    Lastly, if it is a common problem it won't take very long for a TSB to show up at dealerships that will almost but not quite fix the problem.:) ;) Good luck!
  • has anyone ever had a problem with loss of power while driving??
  • erzebeterzebet Posts: 1
    Yes, yes, yes! Have 2006 Liberty Renegade purchased in November 2006. Vehicle chokes (loses power) around turns and on hard acceleration. Dealer acknowledged issue and says Chrysler is aware of the problem, which affects all 06 Liberty and Commander models. Has to do with ESP, dealer has been waiting for fix from Chrysler since November 2006!
  • My problem was from a differnt size tire. When I bought the 06 libby it was used with about 5000 miles on it. Long story short they replaced 3 of 4 of the tires so when the car was going around turns or even just forward on the highway it would just drastly slow down and basicly I had no gas pressure. When all trires were replaced after [fighting with the dealer for about a month] the libby now runs fine or great.
  • toni13toni13 Posts: 2
    Help! I have had all four of my O2 Sensors replaced and my Check Engine Light is still on and the diagnostic is still stating it is the O2 Sensor.
  • toni13toni13 Posts: 2
  • blkrbtblkrbt Posts: 5
    Hello everybody,

    I need your help. A friend of mine imported a Jeep Liberty in the old country. In order to register the vehicle he also needs the engine#. I called my local dealership, service advisor told me it's located on the right(passenger) side of the engine. He had to look it up, so he couldn't tell me if the engine number would have just numbers or also letters. Also, does it start with the engine model? If anybody knows, please let me know. Any info will be great.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    The folks in Jeep Liberty should be able to help you.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • blkrbtblkrbt Posts: 5
    Thank you tidester
Sign In or Register to comment.