I own 08 Sport AWD. Please need help or advice on the following matter: After unlocking door either form remote or from inside the car keeps unlocking it several times by itself. So I can hear multiple clicking of the lock and can see small movement of the the lock knobs. If I insert the ignition key after that glitch described above the front windows open themselves. It's not 100% repeatable and it happens like ones after 10-20 times of unlocking the door. so I do not know do I need go to the dealer right now or wait until my first oil change. The biggest concern is that - will my cx-9 open the front windows by itself in the middle of a rainy night? this is scary
Key fob might be wacking out on you. If you can, try to snap it open and remove the battery (or simply leave it somewhere out of range of the CX-9) and use your other key fob for a while and see if you get the same issue.
Thank you for the responses Well I showed it today to a mazda technician. In the beginning He thought it was a problem with the "transmitter"-key as well . But seems like it's internal problem with the lock system. After small shake of the car like door was slammed or the car just hits a bump it happens time to time. The technician was surprised seeing it. It might be some wiring problem so we'll see. Tomorrow I'm going to leave it at Mazda service center for the repair and It's only 750 miles on it which makes me upset ..
Update My cx-9 already 2nd day in repair shop of Mazda Dealership. They dissembled all front doors and checked the wires then they replaced the door lock system block of the driver side. Still nothing - can not find and fix the problem.A tech manager said that they're going replace computer block and assured me that it will fix the problem. Well I'm not so sure about that.
I also believe it is the remote (it sounds like you don't have the SmartEntry system) that got stuck from time to time (specifically the Unlock button). You know that when you hold down the unlock button on your remote, the window will roll down. That seems consistent with your description. Have you tried to use the other remote? If both had the same problem, then it is not the remote. If there is no DTC (error code) showing on M-MDS (Mazda's diagnostic computer), all the technician does is swapping parts. They are not any smarter than we are.
Well I'm back on the road. Thank you everybody. Yeah just got back form Mazda Dealership driving my cx-9. Well it was a Body Control Module (BCM) which was causing the problem. Apparently BCM had a glitch when it was sending repeated commands to unlock a door after which car opens windows as a next programmed operation to that sequence. Hopefully it's what was causing the problem and my car is not a lemon :lemon: because I love it
Ignore my last post. :mad: :mad: The problem is still there they did not fix anything by replacing some parts. About remote. Yes I've tested both remote keys - same thing and same problem. Shoot It smells like lemon
Update: Seems like it was fixed. A team lead technician said How stupid he feels. Well probably they did not touch the door lock wires at all means did not disassemble the door. After replacing block by block and not finding any problem they found internal door wires shorten. Duh!
At 5400 miles, 1st problem showed up. Last week, I tried to roll down the driver-side rear door window. It made a loud noise 1/2 down and continued to go all the way down. Tried it again (up and then down), no noise! Buffled. So I tried the other side (still rear door window). It made the same loud noise. Tried a couple more times, it stuck at 2/3 and wouldn't roll down. No problem rolling up, thought.
My gut feeling was that something in the window mechanism was loose on both sides (! together!). So, today I took it in to Oak Tree Mazda in San Jose. I explained and showed the problem to the service advisor (nice guy, friendly, too). He got me a loaner (Mazda 3 sedan with 1400 miles on it! Nice!). When I picked it up, both are fixed nicely. Here is what they put down on the service record: "Rt side: Styroform pads has completely fallen off and is blocking the glass. Reinstalled styroform pad using silicon rubber." "Lt side: Styroform pads inside the door has falled off from summer heat on the double sided tape attaching the styroform. Reinstalled styroform pads but applied silicon rubber for added support." (word by word) They even turned on the "autolock" feature of SmartKey for me for free. All it costed me was 1 gallon of gas I had to put in the loaner Mazda 3.
Anyway, summer is here. I don't think I am the only one that has this issue. It is also nice to know that Mazda give customers loaner for repair and major service. I don't think I was ever treated like that from Honda or Toyota!
Sure, I am not happy with the material or workmanship that caused the failure of the windows. However, I am glad that Oak Tree Mazda treated me fairly. I would recommend Oak Tree Mazda to anyone. They will get a 5-star for satisfaction from me for sure.
Does anyone know if you have to take your car back to the dealer you bought it from? I just realized after reading your post that we have your problem - we've only put 53 miles on the car !!!!!
I thought the window only went down 1/2 for safety or something, then I tested the other side and it goes all the way down!
Apparently the use of double-sided tape is not sufficient under hot summer. Bring my post to the dealer. It can be done very easily. I could have done it myself if the CX9 is out of warranty.
No, you don't have to go back to the dealer you bought from. However, chances are that they might treat you better since you bought from them. Find a dealer that gives you a loaner since this is repair. They get money from Mazda.
Many people might have the same issue. Chances are that many don't open their windows often. When they did, they thought (like you) it only opens halfway
Has anyone had their CEL light come on? Mine came on with 4,740 miles and has now been in the shop for 8 days. They replaced the mass airflow sensor; picked up car at 5:30 pm after 3 days; parked car in garage; drove 1 mile the next morning and light came back on; car was back at shop at 9 am. I am pleased that Mazda has given me a rental. GMC would not do that. Any suggestions? They have spoken to 4 Techs at Mazda and no one seems to have a clue.
tammye, Since CEL is on, there must be error codes thrown in OBDII. The tech can scan them and debug the issues from there. In the Workshop manual (they all have one), it lists all the possible causes for certain code. They just have to check all the possibilities. Apparently, their 1st try failed (they thought they did it). Since you have a loaner, let them do the job.
Did you go to a Ford/Mazda dealer? I would recommend an independent Mazda dealer if possible. They usually are more competent when it comes to Mazda vehicles. That is just my opinion.
It is at a Mazda/Hyundai dealership. They have reported to me that they have checked all the codes and can not figure it out. I was just wandering if anyone else with this model has had a problem. I have found out the CX-7 has had this problem. I'm wandering if it could be the same thing on the CX-9. Thanks.
Regular 87 octane is what is needed for the our MZI 3.7L engine. Going upward will not gain anything since the compression ratio of 10.3 is not that high for the engine to benefit from higher octane.
Synthetic oil may help a tiny bit on the MPG, and can prolong the oil change interval up to 15,000 miles (i.e. 3X longer). It also helps reduce wear on cold starts. However, the oil is nearly 3X as expensive. You might also void your warranty if you decide to change your oil at 15,000 interval should anything bad happen to your engine. My advice is that do synthetic after the OE powertrain warranty runs out. After that, do whatever you want (synthetic or not). It is a matter of trade-off.
I turned off my 2007 CX9 while in gear last night. Realizing this I put it in park. When I went to restart it approximately 5 minutes later it would not start. Battery is fine, fuses are all good, don't know what to do next.
I do the same by mistake time to time on my both cars and do not have any problems. I think your problem is something else. Call your dealer and let them fix it. Do not say anything about what you did before. They can be very mean and blame you that everything is only your fault and try to make you look stupid. Let them investigate the problem on their own. I really do not think that switching gear on not moving car with engine off can hurt.
"would not start" needs more clarification. If there is no cranking, I am betting that the interlock is somehow at fault. The system prevent one from starting engine at any gear other than P. That is obviously for safety reason. Yours somehow may be broken. Therefore, the system still think it is NOT in P position. Just my guess.
"would not start" needs more clarification. If there is no cranking, I am betting that the interlock is somehow at fault. The system prevents one from starting engine at any gear other than P. That is obviously for safety reason. Yours somehow may be broken. Therefore, the system still thinks it is NOT in P position. Just my guess.
Suggestion, try this... - step on the brake - shift in/out of Park a few times to all positions - shift back to Park - start engine
If not helping, visit dealer. Use the free roadside assistance from Mazda.
I purchased a 2008 CX9. I like to tinker with the repairs myself. I wanted to purchase the workshop manual.
But I had been trying to buy the workshop manual for 6 months now. It is driving me crazy.
I called three local dealerships. Six months ago, they said to came over to their parts department. When I went, they said they don't have it and will try to get it for me. They never did.
Now, they say I can get it from mazdausa.com. But I can't find it in mazdausa.com.
Well, there's the Online Repair Manuals guide, but it's hit and miss on makes and models.
It's odd the parts departments are clueless (maybe it's intentional?) - there's even a part number for the factory service manual in the owner's manual: 9999-95-003B-08.
Mazda Tech Info is another resource but it's not cheap for more than occasional use.
Try Rosenthal Arlington Mazda. It looks like they have one for $135, and they say they can order them if they don't have the one you need in stock.
lockloop, You best bet is the eBay for price concern also. I got mine there. However, it comes and goes. I heard that waynemazda.com sell them online. Try them. I have WorkShop manual. If you are a DIY guy, you should get the Wiring Manual as well.
Thanks (to both Steve and Ceric) for your replies.
But I am still not able to get it.
I can't find anything from the Online Repair Manuals guide and Mazda Tech Info. The manual in Rosenthal Arlington Mazda is for CX-7. I am looking for the manual for CX-9. Rosenthal doesn't have manual for CX-9.
Hmm, I searched Rosenthal by SKU and thought I hit it. Sorry. The CX-7 has different SKUs for '07 and '08, but who knows if any major changes were done to the manual for it for '08, or for the CX-9 for '08.
Contact www.waynemazdafactoryparts.com OR www.mazdaparts.org I heard that they can order them for you. No dealer is gonna stock those manuals for sales. Few people buy them.
I bought mine (new WorkShop manual) from eBay (forgot how much). They come and go. If you don't want to order by paying high prices, wait for eBay patiently.
Does anyone know how to manually turn on AWD in a CX9 (with AWD of course!). I have an issue with the CX9 rolling backwards on a steep uphill gradient when I take my foot off the brake (in San Francisco), and was thinking that this may solve the problem.
I don't think the problem is either AWD or your tires, it's compression. In automatic mode, the compression on the engine is pretty soft - and you can roll backwards quite a ways. I complained about this to my dealer's service people, and they couldn't offer any alternative other than to switch into the 'manual' mode, where the compression on the engine is quite a bit better.
Thanks for the info, all! Overall, we are thrilled with our CX9. Just put 200 miles on it today driving back and forth to/from San Jose and Santa Rosa.
After I bought my cx-9 I had read couple complains from different people that there is significant vibration after applying the brakes at the speed 40- 50 mph. Well at 11K miles it happened to my cx-9. I searched online and saw many people have this problem. The reason is in the weak rotors that have to be resurfaced (cut) to remove the issue. Frankly speaking I have very bad experience with my dealership. It's all the time hostile - when I need a help they blame me that is my fault and then accept the problem. Can I install aftermarket rotors at different repair shop (not Mazda) and keep the warranty on brakes?
I think "warped rotor" is a wrong concept. The vibration of pad on rotor is caused by uneven surface of the rotor. However, the unevenness was not because the rotor was "warped". It is because brake dust accumulate on the rotors. It started small (maybe from rust), and accumulated over time. i.e. the reason rotor "warps" is because it is "hard", not because it is "soft". German vehicle (BMW, for example) uses soft steel in rotors. The rotors wear with pads together. They have to be replaced together ($$$ to you). The soft-steel rotor does not "warped" because they are "soft".
Rotor "warping" comes with hard-steel rotors (so it lasts several pads, not just one). It happened to all other vehicles I have owned (other than the bimmer). So far, my CX9 is fine for 20K miles. Once in a while, a hard braking (safely done) can alleviate accumulation of brake dust on rotors.
Your brake (inc. pads/rotors) is only covered by 1yr/12K miles from factory.
During the recent cold spell, some type of rodent set up camp under the engine cover in my 2009 CX-9. In addition to using the insulation from the fire wall as its nesting material, it decided to munch on the wiring harness that goes to the fuel injectors and spark plugs. I can't find a part number and none of the online catalogs I've seen have a good illustration. Does anybody know of a good website that might have more information on the wiring harness I'm looking for?
By the way, the dealer has told me that the repairs won't be covered under warranty...
Unfortunately repairs will definately NOT be covered under warranty because it was not a cause of factory defects. I do not have the Mazda part number nor an illustration, but I do work for am auto group (dealership). What you are going to need is the engine wire harness that basically connects to all injectors, sensors, switches, etc. found mounted on the actual engine. I looked up an 2007 Ford Edge which will closely almost be the same to the 2007 CX-9 with the 3.5L Duratec it came with. The retail price for that harness is $450.00 so I would assume to expect to pay ~ that same amount. Spark plug/coil connectors will also be included in this harness. Hope this helps a little.
We have had our CX-9 (GT, AWD, Vermont) for 1 year now, ~6500 miles, and have had no problems whatsoever. We love it just as much as the day we bought it. The remote start and heated seats are a real luxury during the Vermont winters.
I was chasing a young woodchuck out of the garden this summer and it ran under our CX-9 and disappeared into the engine area. I coaxed it out without any issues to the car (of the woodchuck).
call your insurance company to see if it's covered under comprehensive. Years ago a squirrel got in the engine compartment of my 1-year old Accord and did quite a damage to the wires. The insurance picked up most of the repair cost.
GOOD NEWS! The insurance IS going to cover the damage. Not only that but I kept my ZERO deductible on comprehensive coverage so it should cost me nothing. The car is at the dealer now and I should have the estimate tomorrow...
I'm expecting that TSB 02-003/07 may apply to our CX9. In less thatn 25k miles the front tires are shot. Left front worst of all. I'm interested to learn what others have experienced regarding tire wear. We are in southern california so pot holes and other rough road conditions basically don't exist... meanwhile my other car has about the same number of miles and almost no tire wear at all.
Just returned from a Niagara trip and it was a pain in the bu%% to remove all the dead bugs from the front of the car as well as from the side mirrors. Besides I was always worried about paint scratching.
I'm contemplating getting the bug mask but wanted to hear from current owners. Those of you who have purchased the bug mask and/or the deflector can you please share your experiences with it ? Does it keep out all the bugs ? Is it easy to install and uninstall. Does the area under the mask get dirty ?
I'm in Florida where the bugs get really bad. I keep the front end and mirror housings waxed and spray a little Pam on the nose prior to longer trips. A little Simple Green and a bug removal spunge are all it takes to get those monsters off.
I have a 2007 CX-9 and just replaced the brake rotors for the 3rd time....Rosenthal said they would cover it even though it has been a year since they replaced the second set.
Has anyone else had the same problem? With only 37,000 miles on the car I'm considering not purchasing it at the end of the lease!
This is common well-known problem for cx-9. The original rotors are too weak for a such heavy vehicle. The fix is trivial - install better rotors like slotted rotors. For instance: http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A4921A0A0.aspx
All cars have flaws and the rotor issue is not a big deal.
Overall cx-9 is very nice and reliable automobile.
I really love the car. We traded in an Isuzu Trooper for it. This is actually the 4th set of rotors.....the real frustration is having the service guy say it really was out of warranty when he knows I'm there for my 4th set of rotors!
Comments
Please need help or advice on the following matter:
After unlocking door either form remote or from inside the car keeps unlocking it several times by itself. So I can hear multiple clicking of the lock and can see small movement of the the lock knobs.
If I insert the ignition key after that glitch described above the front windows open themselves.
It's not 100% repeatable and it happens like ones after 10-20 times of unlocking the door. so I do not know do I need go to the dealer right now or wait until my first oil change.
The biggest concern is that - will my cx-9 open the front windows by itself in the middle of a rainy night? this is scary
Well I showed it today to a mazda technician. In the beginning He thought it was a problem with the "transmitter"-key as well . But seems like it's internal problem with the lock system. After small shake of the car like door was slammed or the car just hits a bump it happens time to time. The technician was surprised seeing it. It might be some wiring problem so we'll see. Tomorrow I'm going to leave it at Mazda service center for the repair and It's only 750 miles on it which makes me upset ..
My cx-9 already 2nd day in repair shop of Mazda Dealership. They dissembled all front doors and checked the wires then they replaced the door lock system block of the driver side. Still nothing - can not find and fix the problem.A tech manager said that they're going replace computer block and assured me that it will fix the problem. Well I'm not so sure about that.
If there is no DTC (error code) showing on M-MDS (Mazda's diagnostic computer), all the technician does is swapping parts. They are not any smarter than we are.
Yeah just got back form Mazda Dealership driving my cx-9. Well it was a Body Control Module (BCM) which was causing the problem. Apparently BCM had a glitch when it was sending repeated commands to unlock a door after which car opens windows as a next programmed operation to that sequence. Hopefully it's what was causing the problem and my car is not a lemon :lemon: because I love it
After three attempts, you can ask for a new CX-9 under lemon law.
Good luck.
Last week, I tried to roll down the driver-side rear door window. It made a loud noise 1/2 down and continued to go all the way down. Tried it again (up and then down), no noise! Buffled. So I tried the other side (still rear door window). It made the same loud noise. Tried a couple more times, it stuck at 2/3 and wouldn't roll down.
No problem rolling up, thought.
My gut feeling was that something in the window mechanism was loose on both sides (! together!).
So, today I took it in to Oak Tree Mazda in San Jose.
I explained and showed the problem to the service advisor (nice guy, friendly, too).
He got me a loaner (Mazda 3 sedan with 1400 miles on it! Nice!).
When I picked it up, both are fixed nicely.
Here is what they put down on the service record:
"Rt side: Styroform pads has completely fallen off and is blocking the glass. Reinstalled styroform pad using silicon rubber."
"Lt side: Styroform pads inside the door has falled off from summer heat on the double sided tape attaching the styroform. Reinstalled styroform pads but applied silicon rubber for added support." (word by word)
They even turned on the "autolock" feature of SmartKey for me for free.
All it costed me was 1 gallon of gas I had to put in the loaner Mazda 3.
Anyway, summer is here. I don't think I am the only one that has this issue.
It is also nice to know that Mazda give customers loaner for repair and major
service. I don't think I was ever treated like that from Honda or Toyota!
Sure, I am not happy with the material or workmanship that caused the failure of the windows. However, I am glad that Oak Tree Mazda treated me fairly.
I would recommend Oak Tree Mazda to anyone.
They will get a 5-star for satisfaction from me for sure.
I thought the window only went down 1/2 for safety or something, then I tested the other side and it goes all the way down!
No, you don't have to go back to the dealer you bought from. However, chances are that they might treat you better since you bought from them. Find a dealer that gives you a loaner since this is repair. They get money from Mazda.
Many people might have the same issue. Chances are that many don't open their windows often. When they did, they thought (like you) it only opens halfway
Since CEL is on, there must be error codes thrown in OBDII. The tech can scan them and debug the issues from there. In the Workshop manual (they all have one), it lists all the possible causes for certain code. They just have to check all the possibilities. Apparently, their 1st try failed (they thought they did it). Since you have a loaner, let them do the job.
Did you go to a Ford/Mazda dealer? I would recommend an independent Mazda dealer if possible. They usually are more competent when it comes to Mazda vehicles. That is just my opinion.
My husband is very impressed with the service we were given - they even cleaned the car! Not that it was dirty, but it was a nice touch!
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Synthetic oil may help a tiny bit on the MPG, and can prolong the oil change interval up to 15,000 miles (i.e. 3X longer). It also helps reduce wear on cold starts. However, the oil is nearly 3X as expensive. You might also void your warranty if you decide to change your oil at 15,000 interval should anything bad happen to your engine.
My advice is that do synthetic after the OE powertrain warranty runs out. After that, do whatever you want (synthetic or not). It is a matter of trade-off.
If there is no cranking, I am betting that the interlock is somehow at fault. The system prevent one from starting engine at any gear other than P. That is obviously for safety reason. Yours somehow may be broken. Therefore, the system still think it is NOT in P position. Just my guess.
If there is no cranking, I am betting that the interlock is somehow at fault. The system prevents one from starting engine at any gear other than P. That is obviously for safety reason. Yours somehow may be broken. Therefore, the system still thinks it is NOT in P position. Just my guess.
Suggestion, try this...
- step on the brake
- shift in/out of Park a few times to all positions
- shift back to Park
- start engine
If not helping, visit dealer. Use the free roadside assistance from Mazda.
I purchased a 2008 CX9. I like to tinker with the repairs myself. I wanted to purchase the workshop manual.
But I had been trying to buy the workshop manual for 6 months now. It is driving me crazy.
I called three local dealerships. Six months ago, they said to came over to their parts department. When I went, they said they don't have it and will try to get it for me. They never did.
Now, they say I can get it from mazdausa.com. But I can't find it in mazdausa.com.
From the following link:
http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=contactCustomer- #9
It said
"How do get an owner's manual, wiring diagram and/or workshop manual?
Please contact your nearest authorized Mazda dealership and speak with the Parts Department. They will be more than willing to assist you."
This is the manual mechanics in Mazda dealership use. Clearly it exists and is for sale. But somehow, I am not able to find it.
Anybody know how to get it?
ps. If anybody know of repair manuals made by third party companies, let me know also.
It's odd the parts departments are clueless (maybe it's intentional?) - there's even a part number for the factory service manual in the owner's manual: 9999-95-003B-08.
Mazda Tech Info is another resource but it's not cheap for more than occasional use.
Try Rosenthal Arlington Mazda. It looks like they have one for $135, and they say they can order them if they don't have the one you need in stock.
You best bet is the eBay for price concern also.
I got mine there. However, it comes and goes.
I heard that waynemazda.com sell them online. Try them.
I have WorkShop manual. If you are a DIY guy, you should get the Wiring Manual as well.
But I am still not able to get it.
I can't find anything from the Online Repair Manuals guide and Mazda Tech Info. The manual in Rosenthal Arlington Mazda is for CX-7. I am looking for the manual for CX-9. Rosenthal doesn't have manual for CX-9.
In Ebay, there is a used 2007 CX-9 manual for $135. The link is here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-Mazda-CX-9-Service-Repair-Manual-Book_W0QQcm- dZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem56300a9050QQitemZ370173186128Q- QptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature
But my CX-9 is 2008. Are the manuals the same between 2007 and 2008 CX-9?
I can't find the wiring manual.
Why is it so hard to find the manuals?
This is practically turning into a Right To Repair issue.
My online resource through my public library (Auto Repair Reference Center) just has TSB and Recall blurbs.
www.waynemazdafactoryparts.com OR
www.mazdaparts.org
I heard that they can order them for you.
No dealer is gonna stock those manuals for sales.
Few people buy them.
I bought mine (new WorkShop manual) from eBay (forgot how much).
They come and go.
If you don't want to order by paying high prices, wait for eBay patiently.
You need better tires, not AWD.
The OE tires are lousy.
Frankly speaking I have very bad experience with my dealership. It's all the time hostile - when I need a help they blame me that is my fault and then accept the problem. Can I install aftermarket rotors at different repair shop (not Mazda) and keep the warranty on brakes?
The vibration of pad on rotor is caused by uneven surface of the rotor. However, the unevenness was not because the rotor was "warped". It is because brake dust accumulate on the rotors. It started small (maybe from rust), and accumulated over time. i.e. the reason rotor "warps" is because it is "hard", not because it is "soft". German vehicle (BMW, for example) uses soft steel in rotors. The rotors wear with pads together. They have to be replaced together ($$$ to you). The soft-steel rotor does not "warped" because they are "soft".
Rotor "warping" comes with hard-steel rotors (so it lasts several pads, not just one). It happened to all other vehicles I have owned (other than the bimmer).
So far, my CX9 is fine for 20K miles. Once in a while, a hard braking (safely done) can alleviate accumulation of brake dust on rotors.
Your brake (inc. pads/rotors) is only covered by 1yr/12K miles from factory.
By the way, the dealer has told me that the repairs won't be covered under warranty...
I was chasing a young woodchuck out of the garden this summer and it ran under our CX-9 and disappeared into the engine area. I coaxed it out without any issues to the car (of the woodchuck).
Thanks.
I'm contemplating getting the bug mask but wanted to hear from current owners.
Those of you who have purchased the bug mask and/or the deflector can you please share your experiences with it ? Does it keep out all the bugs ? Is it easy to install and uninstall. Does the area under the mask get dirty ?
thanks
Has anyone else had the same problem? With only 37,000 miles on the car I'm considering not purchasing it at the end of the lease!
For instance: http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A4921A0A0.aspx
All cars have flaws and the rotor issue is not a big deal.
Overall cx-9 is very nice and reliable automobile.
Thanks for the advice!