Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently tried to lease a vehicle again after your last lease ended, and found that average monthly payments have gone so far up that you decided to get a cheaper vehicle with a lower monthly payment or purchase a used car?
If so, a reporter would like to talk to you about it. Please reach out to [email protected] by Thursday, October 18, 2018 telling us a little about your experience, and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.
If you experience loading issues with the login/register form, please completely disable ad blocker or use an incognito or in-private window to log in.

Mazda CX-9 Maintenance and Repair



  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    At 5400 miles, 1st problem showed up.
    Last week, I tried to roll down the driver-side rear door window. It made a loud noise 1/2 down and continued to go all the way down. Tried it again (up and then down), no noise! Buffled. So I tried the other side (still rear door window). It made the same loud noise. Tried a couple more times, it stuck at 2/3 and wouldn't roll down.
    No problem rolling up, thought.

    My gut feeling was that something in the window mechanism was loose on both sides (! together!).
    So, today I took it in to Oak Tree Mazda in San Jose.
    I explained and showed the problem to the service advisor (nice guy, friendly, too).
    He got me a loaner (Mazda 3 sedan with 1400 miles on it! Nice!).
    When I picked it up, both are fixed nicely.
    Here is what they put down on the service record:
    "Rt side: Styroform pads has completely fallen off and is blocking the glass. Reinstalled styroform pad using silicon rubber."
    "Lt side: Styroform pads inside the door has falled off from summer heat on the double sided tape attaching the styroform. Reinstalled styroform pads but applied silicon rubber for added support." (word by word)
    They even turned on the "autolock" feature of SmartKey for me for free.
    All it costed me was 1 gallon of gas I had to put in the loaner Mazda 3.

    Anyway, summer is here. I don't think I am the only one that has this issue.
    It is also nice to know that Mazda give customers loaner for repair and major
    service. I don't think I was ever treated like that from Honda or Toyota!

    Sure, I am not happy with the material or workmanship that caused the failure of the windows. However, I am glad that Oak Tree Mazda treated me fairly.
    I would recommend Oak Tree Mazda to anyone.
    They will get a 5-star for satisfaction from me for sure.
  • clairebclaireb Posts: 12
    Does anyone know if you have to take your car back to the dealer you bought it from? I just realized after reading your post that we have your problem - we've only put 53 miles on the car :( !!!!!

    I thought the window only went down 1/2 for safety or something, then I tested the other side and it goes all the way down!
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Apparently the use of double-sided tape is not sufficient under hot summer. Bring my post to the dealer. It can be done very easily. I could have done it myself if the CX9 is out of warranty.

    No, you don't have to go back to the dealer you bought from. However, chances are that they might treat you better since you bought from them. Find a dealer that gives you a loaner since this is repair. They get money from Mazda.

    Many people might have the same issue. Chances are that many don't open their windows often. When they did, they thought (like you) it only opens halfway ;)
  • tammyetammye Posts: 2
    Has anyone had their CEL light come on? Mine came on with 4,740 miles and has now been in the shop for 8 days. They replaced the mass airflow sensor; picked up car at 5:30 pm after 3 days; parked car in garage; drove 1 mile the next morning and light came back on; car was back at shop at 9 am. I am pleased that Mazda has given me a rental. GMC would not do that. Any suggestions? They have spoken to 4 Techs at Mazda and no one seems to have a clue.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Since CEL is on, there must be error codes thrown in OBDII. The tech can scan them and debug the issues from there. In the Workshop manual (they all have one), it lists all the possible causes for certain code. They just have to check all the possibilities. Apparently, their 1st try failed (they thought they did it). Since you have a loaner, let them do the job.

    Did you go to a Ford/Mazda dealer? I would recommend an independent Mazda dealer if possible. They usually are more competent when it comes to Mazda vehicles. That is just my opinion.
  • tammyetammye Posts: 2
    It is at a Mazda/Hyundai dealership. They have reported to me that they have checked all the codes and can not figure it out. I was just wandering if anyone else with this model has had a problem. I have found out the CX-7 has had this problem. I'm wandering if it could be the same thing on the CX-9. Thanks.
  • clairebclaireb Posts: 12
    Well, we decided to take it to the dealer we bought it from and they fixed it straight away.

    My husband is very impressed with the service we were given - they even cleaned the car! Not that it was dirty, but it was a nice touch!
  • cry1raycry1ray Posts: 2
    Just bought an 09 CX9 and wondering should I put super unleaded gas and also should I use synthetic oil. Any thought anyone??

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You may want to write up a report in our Dealer Ratings and Reviews.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Regular 87 octane is what is needed for the our MZI 3.7L engine. Going upward will not gain anything since the compression ratio of 10.3 is not that high for the engine to benefit from higher octane.

    Synthetic oil may help a tiny bit on the MPG, and can prolong the oil change interval up to 15,000 miles (i.e. 3X longer). It also helps reduce wear on cold starts. However, the oil is nearly 3X as expensive. You might also void your warranty if you decide to change your oil at 15,000 interval should anything bad happen to your engine.
    My advice is that do synthetic after the OE powertrain warranty runs out. After that, do whatever you want (synthetic or not). It is a matter of trade-off.
  • staggsstaggs Posts: 1
    I turned off my 2007 CX9 while in gear last night. Realizing this I put it in park. When I went to restart it approximately 5 minutes later it would not start. Battery is fine, fuses are all good, don't know what to do next.
  • euaeua Posts: 9
    I do the same by mistake time to time on my both cars and do not have any problems. I think your problem is something else. Call your dealer and let them fix it. Do not say anything about what you did before. They can be very mean and blame you that everything is only your fault and try to make you look stupid. Let them investigate the problem on their own. I really do not think that switching gear on not moving car with engine off can hurt.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    "would not start" needs more clarification.
    If there is no cranking, I am betting that the interlock is somehow at fault. The system prevent one from starting engine at any gear other than P. That is obviously for safety reason. Yours somehow may be broken. Therefore, the system still think it is NOT in P position. Just my guess.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    "would not start" needs more clarification.
    If there is no cranking, I am betting that the interlock is somehow at fault. The system prevents one from starting engine at any gear other than P. That is obviously for safety reason. Yours somehow may be broken. Therefore, the system still thinks it is NOT in P position. Just my guess.

    Suggestion, try this...
    - step on the brake
    - shift in/out of Park a few times to all positions
    - shift back to Park
    - start engine

    If not helping, visit dealer. Use the free roadside assistance from Mazda.
  • locklooplockloop Posts: 15

    I purchased a 2008 CX9. I like to tinker with the repairs myself. I wanted to purchase the workshop manual.

    But I had been trying to buy the workshop manual for 6 months now. It is driving me crazy.

    I called three local dealerships. Six months ago, they said to came over to their parts department. When I went, they said they don't have it and will try to get it for me. They never did.

    Now, they say I can get it from But I can't find it in

    From the following link: #9

    It said
    "How do get an owner's manual, wiring diagram and/or workshop manual?

    Please contact your nearest authorized Mazda dealership and speak with the Parts Department. They will be more than willing to assist you."

    This is the manual mechanics in Mazda dealership use. Clearly it exists and is for sale. But somehow, I am not able to find it.

    Anybody know how to get it?

    ps. If anybody know of repair manuals made by third party companies, let me know also.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Well, there's the Online Repair Manuals guide, but it's hit and miss on makes and models.

    It's odd the parts departments are clueless (maybe it's intentional?) - there's even a part number for the factory service manual in the owner's manual: 9999-95-003B-08.

    Mazda Tech Info is another resource but it's not cheap for more than occasional use.

    Try Rosenthal Arlington Mazda. It looks like they have one for $135, and they say they can order them if they don't have the one you need in stock.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    You best bet is the eBay for price concern also.
    I got mine there. However, it comes and goes.
    I heard that sell them online. Try them.
    I have WorkShop manual. If you are a DIY guy, you should get the Wiring Manual as well.
  • locklooplockloop Posts: 15
    Thanks (to both Steve and Ceric) for your replies.

    But I am still not able to get it.

    I can't find anything from the Online Repair Manuals guide and Mazda Tech Info. The manual in Rosenthal Arlington Mazda is for CX-7. I am looking for the manual for CX-9. Rosenthal doesn't have manual for CX-9.

    In Ebay, there is a used 2007 CX-9 manual for $135. The link is here: dZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem56300a9050QQitemZ370173186128Q- QptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

    But my CX-9 is 2008. Are the manuals the same between 2007 and 2008 CX-9?

    I can't find the wiring manual.

    Why is it so hard to find the manuals?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Hmm, I searched Rosenthal by SKU and thought I hit it. Sorry. The CX-7 has different SKUs for '07 and '08, but who knows if any major changes were done to the manual for it for '08, or for the CX-9 for '08.

    This is practically turning into a Right To Repair issue.

    My online resource through my public library (Auto Repair Reference Center) just has TSB and Recall blurbs.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Contact OR
    I heard that they can order them for you.
    No dealer is gonna stock those manuals for sales.
    Few people buy them.

    I bought mine (new WorkShop manual) from eBay (forgot how much).
    They come and go.
    If you don't want to order by paying high prices, wait for eBay patiently.
  • Not trouble free at all. For the first 11 months not one issue. Now I seem to be part of the electrical problem mystery group...
  • Does anyone know how to manually turn on AWD in a CX9 (with AWD of course!). I have an issue with the CX9 rolling backwards on a steep uphill gradient when I take my foot off the brake (in San Francisco), and was thinking that this may solve the problem.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    I know SF.
    You need better tires, not AWD.
    The OE tires are lousy.
  • I don't think the problem is either AWD or your tires, it's compression. In automatic mode, the compression on the engine is pretty soft - and you can roll backwards quite a ways. I complained about this to my dealer's service people, and they couldn't offer any alternative other than to switch into the 'manual' mode, where the compression on the engine is quite a bit better.
  • Thanks for the info, all! Overall, we are thrilled with our CX9. Just put 200 miles on it today driving back and forth to/from San Jose and Santa Rosa.
  • euaeua Posts: 9
    After I bought my cx-9 I had read couple complains from different people that there is significant vibration after applying the brakes at the speed 40- 50 mph. Well at 11K miles it happened to my cx-9. I searched online and saw many people have this problem. The reason is in the weak rotors that have to be resurfaced (cut) to remove the issue.
    Frankly speaking I have very bad experience with my dealership. It's all the time hostile - when I need a help they blame me that is my fault and then accept the problem. Can I install aftermarket rotors at different repair shop (not Mazda) and keep the warranty on brakes?
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    I think "warped rotor" is a wrong concept.
    The vibration of pad on rotor is caused by uneven surface of the rotor. However, the unevenness was not because the rotor was "warped". It is because brake dust accumulate on the rotors. It started small (maybe from rust), and accumulated over time. i.e. the reason rotor "warps" is because it is "hard", not because it is "soft". German vehicle (BMW, for example) uses soft steel in rotors. The rotors wear with pads together. They have to be replaced together ($$$ to you). The soft-steel rotor does not "warped" because they are "soft".

    Rotor "warping" comes with hard-steel rotors (so it lasts several pads, not just one). It happened to all other vehicles I have owned (other than the bimmer).
    So far, my CX9 is fine for 20K miles. Once in a while, a hard braking (safely done) can alleviate accumulation of brake dust on rotors.

    Your brake (inc. pads/rotors) is only covered by 1yr/12K miles from factory.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 774
    During the recent cold spell, some type of rodent set up camp under the engine cover in my 2009 CX-9. In addition to using the insulation from the fire wall as its nesting material, it decided to munch on the wiring harness that goes to the fuel injectors and spark plugs. I can't find a part number and none of the online catalogs I've seen have a good illustration. Does anybody know of a good website that might have more information on the wiring harness I'm looking for?

    By the way, the dealer has told me that the repairs won't be covered under warranty...
  • Unfortunately repairs will definately NOT be covered under warranty because it was not a cause of factory defects. I do not have the Mazda part number nor an illustration, but I do work for am auto group (dealership). What you are going to need is the engine wire harness that basically connects to all injectors, sensors, switches, etc. found mounted on the actual engine. I looked up an 2007 Ford Edge which will closely almost be the same to the 2007 CX-9 with the 3.5L Duratec it came with. The retail price for that harness is $450.00 so I would assume to expect to pay ~ that same amount. Spark plug/coil connectors will also be included in this harness. Hope this helps a little.
  • We have had our CX-9 (GT, AWD, Vermont) for 1 year now, ~6500 miles, and have had no problems whatsoever. We love it just as much as the day we bought it. The remote start and heated seats are a real luxury during the Vermont winters.

    I was chasing a young woodchuck out of the garden this summer and it ran under our CX-9 and disappeared into the engine area. I coaxed it out without any issues to the car (of the woodchuck).
Sign In or Register to comment.