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Tranny fluid change: If you start changing tranny fluid early in the life of the car, my opinion is you are only doing GOOD to protect it! Everyone buying new cars should change auto fluid on a reasonable basis. (20k? 30k?) The majority of trannies would last longer, I think, if people put some care into them. Especially if their driving habits beat up the tranny. Just watch rush hour, and you'll know there are millions of cars that fit this description!
N8wvi, number one, motors tend to like to run under a load, versus no load. Under no load, they are somewhat "unstable." The worst case scenario is revving an engine that is not in gear. Bad, very bad. But I think mainly, an idling engine is running hotter. Fluids are being pumped slower, in older cars with belt driven fans, less air is being drawn through the radiator. Realistically? I've had cars that I've idled through my lunch (20 minutes/ 30 minutes) because it was winter, and my car was the only getaway from work that I had. Never had a problem. Of course, I'm religious about oil changes, radiator fluid changes, etc.
Every couple of oil changes I add a half quart of kerosene to the dirty oil and let the engine idle for about 20 minutes and then let it drain thoroughly, usually overnight, then the next morning on goes a new filter and new oil and I'm done. Kerosene is a solvent that still has oiling properties and gets in the small spaces to dissolve sludge better (in my opinion anyway) than the other solvents that are sold for the purpose (usually about the same weight anyway) and helps the oil drain better.
Another option is just drain the dirty oil, (don't change the filter yet, unless you're REALLY into results, you'll be surprised how dirty it will be after a couple days) fill with new oil and drive it for a couple days and then drain oil/replace filter and there ya go you've done your own flush safely,,,oil is a pretty good cleaner all by itself especially if you sub a quart of the 15w-40 shell oil (Rotella-T) made for diesels,,
this works good and is still cheaper than most commercial places, (and you do it yourself so you know you didn't screw it up!!)
I believe the main thing is being regular, sort of like the old folks, they know a thing or two that deserves a listen...
see y'all
Automatic transmission flush machines replace fluid by removing it and adding fresh with the machine connected in series in a cooler line. They don't add to or reduce "crap" in the filter or pan, nor do they cause harm. The filter should be replaced and pan cleaned prior to flushing.
Ugh, I really distrust any kind of quick engine flushes. My idea of an engine flush is one or more short interval oil & filter changes (and including a quart or more of a detergent-intensive 15W40 like Delo 400 or Rotella) is a good idea. You might also considering a detergent like the CD-2 detergent and leaving it in for a few hundred miles.
--- Bror Jace
Think about it, I am using 1/2 qt of kerosene in 4.5 gts of dirty 10w30 oil. The dirty oil is a lot thicker than the clean 10w30 oil was, I am basically using it to help the old oil drain better, adding 1/2 qt does not do any heavy solvent action, I don't like any kind of fast flush either, I don't consider this a fast flush.
The idea about a short interval oil change is a good safe thing to do too
see y'all
The costs of transmission service for my Malibu at Firestone:
$49.59 labor, plus
$2.50 disposal fee, plus
$80 new transmission filter, minus
$25 "special friend service discount" (coupon).
Total $107.09 before 6% sale tax.
The prices are for April 14, 2001. However, the Malibu filter is unusually expensive. The labor rate in the shop, currently is $85 per hour, also not typical: CT is an expensive place...
As to about watching the Firestone mechanics: well, this is technically possible. They are working with open doors, and, any case, glass is everywhere aroung.
However, I would not do this. Personally, I would not like to be closely watched at work, and, probably even would make more mistakes. So why would I to do this with these mechanics? Either I trust them, or would rather look for another shop.
Any suggestions on where I can locate one?
thanks
dave
My Toyota dealer wanted $85.
Guess I will give a call to my local Fstone for the next time.
Thanks
I think that all Mercon V ATFs are a synthetic blend ... at least the ones I've seen ... like the Quaker State stuff. Maybe someone makes a non-synthetic ATF that meets Mercon V standard?? Seeing the direction in which lubricants are headed and what is asked of ATFs in particular, I'd expect them all to use "synthetic" stocks to one extent or another. They just might not bother to advertise this ... for fear of offending the 'old guard' do-it-yourselfers who still think of anything with the words "synthetic" on it to be some form of voodoo just waiting to make your car erupt oil out of every opening imaginable. >;^)
As for kerosene in the role of engine, I still think it's an unnecessary gamble. When I was much younger, I used one of those kerosene motor flushes on an older, Chevy V-8 engine while I was having it's replacement built (high-performance style) and a week later the head gasket blew. And just recently, I spoke to someone who had a nearly identical experience with a totally different car. I suppose if you are only using 1/2 as much kerosene it's a little safer but I don't think the end result justifies it at all, especially when you'll have heavy traces of that kerosene in your crankcase even after the oil change.
Yes, it's nice to have a motor that's VERY clean on the inside but I don't think the risk is worth it. 10W30 (or any other weight of oil) with a few thousand miles on it shouldn't be any thicker than new stuff, maybe even a tad thinner. It's only when conventional oil has been left in a really, really long time (8-10,000+ miles or so) that it begins to oxidize and thicken. But at that stage you are seriously abusing your motor ... and I don-t think ANY of us here are doing that.
If I were to clean out my motor with some additive other than the aforementioned CD-2 detergent, I might add a little ATF to the crankcase, run the car for up to an hour and then drain the whole mess. But so far, I haven't even felt the need to do this.
Having a little sludge residue in a few quiet corners of your engine really isn't hurting anything ... but using methods that are aggressive enough to dislodge ALL of it certainly could. It's a balancing act and despite my propensity towards anal retentive fussiness, I've really come to terms with the occasional brown streaks and tiny amber puddles I can see when shining a light into my oil cap filler hole on the car with over 100,000 miles on it. I don't bother them and they don't bother me. >:^)
--- Bror Jace
I think that as long as I am changing oil regularly any "kero-flush" I do really only helps drain more than actually any cleaning...now if I had gone longer between changes,,,I'd never do it that way, I would however do a couple of short term oil intervals but that would be it. Some of this stuff just gets to the point of ever-dwindling returns..
ITS FINALLY FRIDAY!
See Y'all
Thanks,
Ken
Never heard anything bad about it from anyone...
Most mfg'rs don't recommend that weight these days though, but if you live in Florida, go fer it!
The box did say something about a new "GF-3 formula" or something.
The 5W20 was sitting on the same display as the other weights with a price sign of about 20 bucks, so I assume that it's a) dino-based oil and b) same price as the other Pennzoil dino-based oils.
Just thought I'd mention this, since folks are having a fairly tough time locating 5W20.
So far I've seen Motorcraft 5W20 and Pennzoil 5W20. I wonder how long it will be before the other sellers get into the act in a major way? I think I've heard rumors that just about ever oil brand had a 5W20 formulation in the works but so far ... zippo.
--- Bror Jace
I've checked a few websites (Titan, Blackstone, etc.); they all seem to charge $25-30 per analysis so I guess this is standard.
In advance thanks for any tips!
--- Bror Jace
extended drain intervals. Mark Graham is president of Jiff Lube International, the foremost fast lube chain owned by Pennzoil-Quaker State (PQS), the number one engine oil marketer. He has also recently become chairman of the board for the Automotive Aftermarket Industry Association (AAIA), the premier representative for the automotive aftermarket. In a September 2001 Lubricants World interview, Graham took on the issue of extended drain intervals, revealing
exactly why he opposes them. When asked what issues the AAIA is currently dealing with, Graham replied, “There is a significant issue out there that affects anybody that utilizes
lubricants, and that is extended drains. The fact that consumers to day have been creating a larger spread in between their oil changes has had a significant effect on anybody in the oil change business. Everything that we can do to bring the oil change interval back into a logistical time-frame, the better off we are.” Graham goes on to explain that OEMs (original equipment manufacturers) have “confused” the issue by telling people that 6,000 to 7.500-mile intervals are fine as long as they are not “severe service” drivers. In his opinion, consumers are
confused over what makes a “severe service” driver. “At (PQS) we use a number internally that if we [shorten the drain interval] by 100 miles [for each car serviced], it would mean an additional $20 million in revenue for the company.” Proclaims Graham. “The revenue benefits are equally significant for everybody else. That’s a lot of money. Jiffy Lube also estimates that if we increased one car a day [per shop] in our system, that’s $33 million in revenue. "Looking at all this from another angle, if we could move our customers to get one more oil change per year, it’s worth $294 million for the oil change alone, and $441 million in revenue, when you include the ancillary products and services customers typically buy along with the oil change.” “We need to educate consumers on reducing the extended drain, and then we [Jiffy Lube] certainly want to out-market our competitors,” says Graham. “But before we do that, we have to get into the heads of the consumers that a 5,000- or 6,000-, 7,000-mile oil change is not OK, and
we need to tell them why. And we need to get them to understand that normal vs. severe really means.”
Hmmmm, why is it not ok?? Because you are losing money??? Must be feelin' the hurts now that more people are following OEM scheduled oil changes, not theirs. My truck (2500HD with 8.1L) doesn't even have an oil change schedule, states to follow the oil change light, don't exceed 1 year or 12k on the oil.
One thing I can gaurantee is that this is one truck that will be in NO ONES quicky oil change computers, let alone my wifes new car!!
Good article, where did you pull it from??
Bob
This lady does not know much about cars, she does whatever jiffy ask her to change, air filter, coolant, trans fluid, windshield wiper, etc. All these at full price. Easy money.
As in "Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt" of what will happen to your company and your career if you buy hardware/software/services from a non-IBM vendor.
That saying was very true until at least the 1990s and still exists for some unenlightened companies today.
My only problem with telling people they can go longer than 3,000 or 5,000 miles between oil & filter changes is that some people push those limits as it is and end up neglecting their cars.
I pulled the oil filler cap off an early nineties Honda Civic (not unlike mine) and there was a 1/4" layer of crud on its underside ... and the car only had 80,000 miles on the clock. I bet I could count on one hand the number of changes that the vehicle had during its life.
I think owners of such cars should be forced to watch their engines be disasembled, all the goo and crud scraped off/out of it and then forced to EAT IT!
--- Bror Jace
What do you (brorjace and adc100) guys know about this even more specialized synthetics?
Thanks
Later,
Al
With the reduced amounts of this additive in SJ automobile motor oils, these specialty formulations become that much more special.
--- Bror Jace
Now I wasn't born yesterday, not even the day before, so I know that these infomercials are masters at the halftruth, the mistruth and things completely foreign to the truth but does anyone here know anyhting about this stuff. Anyone want to admit that they bought it? >;^)
The last time I plunked down my money for snake oil was for Prolong ... and I'll never do it again. I WOULD however, like to know more about this Zmax if anyone out there knows what this stuff really is (PTFE, ZDDP, something else) and more importantly, who is suing them for false advertising. >;^)
--- Bror Jace
Also, I heard somewhere that the new API SL petroleum oil is really synthetic blend? Is that true? I was checking out different brands of SL at Walmart and none of them says they are synthetic blend. Can anyone verify this?