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Buick Regal Problem



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Did you ever have the FAMOUS a/c start up when turning off engine problem. It will absolutely kill your battery everytime around. Fortunately, there is a TSB for it...
  • edregaledregal Posts: 1
    Our 1992 Regal shakes or bucks a bit when it is idling, for example when waiting at a traffic light. It helps if you gun the engine a little bit, to fool it into not thinking it is actually standing still. One enterprising young mechanic decided an engine mount was at fault, which he replaced but this had no effect. Some people have suggested a faulty fuel pump. Any ideas or experience with this? It's been going on for some time with no detectable other effects.
  • jlkiljlkil Posts: 18
    ok. my '98 regal drives awful. the steering wheel has a "hard" feel to it when driving straight and a slight vibration when doing short turns, like changing lanes or going around a curve. It has 55K miles on it. I replaced the Eagle LS with regular Eagle tires.. no change... took it into dealer, they could not find anything wrong, shock, sway bars, etc ok. got a new set of Eagle front tires, no change.. surely I don't have to go back with the Eagle LS tires to make this car drive good. anyone else had this problem?
  • babywuzumbabywuzum Posts: 2
    I am looking to purchase on of Buick's Regal LS sedans. But I want to know is it even worth it any more? I mean all hear is here complain, complain I HEARD ENOUGH about the squeaky dashboardt but what else is there should I know about?I have $15,000 cash and want to know can I purchase a 99 LS for that type of money. Is it even worth it? Tell me more about the CPU problems also like the climate control and what ever more is out there
  • babywuzumbabywuzum Posts: 2
    Which is the better car and why? What exactly are heated seats and how do they work? And is the supercharged even worth it sounds like just more gas to me.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    Please remember that this conference is dedicated to folks having maintenance or repair issues with their vehicles, so it really stands to reason that this topic in this conference would be focused on complaints - that is why we are here!

    I suggest you take a look at this topic:

    Buick Regal

    in our Sedans conference. You should find a much more balanced viewpoint, lots more advice on whether the 99 LS can be had for that amount of money and on which model might be considered the "better" car. You can just click on that link to go directly to that topic.

    Good luck.

    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • baystaterbaystater Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Regal GS with approx. 29500 miles on it. My problem is the driver's side front speaker and the passenger rear speaker do not seem to be functioning (no sound from either). When I turn the engine off, periodically a buzzing sound comes out of the front driver's side speaker, even when in "mute mode". The dealer had the car for 3 days and could not come up with a diagnosis or fix. Has anyone else experience same or similar problem.

    Also, I had the same flickering of the dash problem, one time only, and the dealer could not replicate the problem so no fix....
  • toddexp24toddexp24 Posts: 1
    i bought a new regal gs on 11/99. since feb/00, the engine has stalled out 5 seperate times. each time it stalls, the engine loses all power, all the dash lights come on, and the speedometer goes up past 120, then back down. sometime the car will start back up coasting in neutral, and sometimes i have to park it. everytime but 1, the engine has stalled out on acceleration in traffic, twice almost causing an accident. the dealership has had it 5 time, put over 800 miles on it, and kept it for 13 days, and cannot find or duplicate the problem. the car is fine other than that small issue. anyone heard of this?
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I own a 99 Regal GSE and just had the oil changed at a regional tire chain.
    They told me that my tie rods are going bad, too much play in them side to side. The car has 14,000 miles on it and they suggested that I take it to my dealer for repair.
    Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • mimsjw1mimsjw1 Posts: 1
    My wife's town and country van has the same problem. Have you been able to get your buick fixed
  • Vehicle has approximately 17,000 miles and during road trips the "service vehicle soon", "anti-lock",and "trac-off", lights appear. Dealer to inspect again next week. First response last month was possibly the gasoline cap. Any information would be helpful before I visit the dealership again.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    '99 Regal LSE w/Gran Touring Suspension and 16" alloy wheels. Owner's manual says wheel nut torque s/b 100 ft lbs, but assume that is for stock steel wheels, not for softer alloys. Measured torque to be in 50-60 ft lb range (after 10k miles) when removing one of the wheels. Any ideas as to what torque should be on these wheels? Many thanks.
  • I'm just about to make a claim under the NC Lemon Law for a 1998 Buick Regal. I bought the car new and have had it in the shop 6 times for the same noise-problem. The "noise" comes only when the car is slowing down, between 17 and 16 mph. It's best described as a 1 second rough scrape-like sound. It goes away after the car has been in use for about 20-30 minutes, but comes back without fail whenever the car sits for 4-6 hours. Here's what the dealer has done so far.:

    1) replaced the cruise control module
    2) found and fixed a short in the ABS module
    3) replaced a solenoid in the transmission
    (they hooked up a bionic ear and heard the noise in the transmission....)
    4) replaced another solenoid..
    (this was a redesigned solenoid model recommended by a Detroit Buick engineer...)
    5) replaced ANOTHER solenoid...
    (who knows...)
    6) put in a new transmission!
    (if all else fails...)

    Guess what, the noise is still there.

    I'm talking with dealer management and Buick management now to see if I can settle without arbitration. I think I have a firm case for a Lemon Law claim in NC. I just wanted to see if anyone out here ever heard of this before. Buick sure doesn't seem to know how to fix it!!
  • I know how much fun a Lemon can be.
    Mine was a '98 Intrigue.

    Don't know the lemon laws in NC, but wish
    you well.

    At this point, if the dealer isn't offering it,
    request that they put you in contact with
    the factory rep for Buick. They have some other fancy name for factory rep(which I forgot) but they know who you mean if you say "Lemon Law rep". This person is NOT
    an employee of the dealership.

    The dealer I dealt with (and even Olds customer service) were pretty evasive and
    kept trying to fix the car and kept refusing
    to put me in contact with the factory rep.

    I imagine you hate to hear this, but you may
    have to consider/hire a Lemon law attorney; I didn't, but that's just me.

    By the time the Olds factory rep dealt with me,
    he stated "I should have gotten this case
    a long time ago".

    Once I dealt with him, it was a breeze.

    I do know this though. If you are going to persue as a Lemon law issue, do NOT
    let them try and fix your car again.

    Once they fix it, (although, why should we think
    they could now, if they haven't in 6 trys...) they
    will tell you that they have satisfied the terms
    of the warranty and Lemon law no longer applies to this problem. But only if the problem goes away.

    Now your problem is different than mine in that when they fixed my car, the fix lasted about two months, then the problem came back.

    It seems like even if they do fix yours again, the noise probably won't go away.

    Point is, the car has to still be broken to persue Lemon law (at least here in California)
    so be careful what you let them do at this point
    (disclaimer: I am not an attorney, I'm only sharing what Olds told me back when I went
    thru this; use your own judgement...).

    Also, be sure you are still within mileage limits or whatever terms your state dictates as valid to persue the Lemon law (again, don't know
    what that is there).

    If GM does "repurchase" the car from you, they should offer you cash as one of your options. In my case, they paid me, the price
    I paid for the car, plus tax, license and registration. Minus a per mile use charge
    and minus any DEALER installed options.

    In my case I was around 11,000 miles and
    had a $200.00 dealer installed security system (that I could not for the life of me
    get them to take off when I was buying the car)

    So I got back all the money mentioned above
    minus about $800.00 for use (and that stinking add on security system); which I thought was fair.

    If you are not offered something like I mentioned above, it may just be the dealer
    trying to hornswaggle you (like basically
    trade in your car, give you blue book and make
    you buy a new car at retail). Lemon law
    does not work that way. You should get all
    the stuff I mentioned above, unless for some reason, you don't qualify for lemon law.

    If you can't persue Lemon law but are
    still within warranty, then disregard what I
    said about not letting the dealer try to fix it
    again. Obviously, if you have to keep the car
    and someone has to pay for repairs, better
    them than you.

    I wish you sucess.
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    & 3800 engine supplement for the 1990 Buick Regal!
  • In response to #41 Regal engine stalls by toddexp24, I'd like to explain my experience thus far. I'm leasing my '99 Buick Regal GS, had it for one full year. Has around 14,000 miles. While accelerating into main traffic, the Regal lost all power and stalled. No service lights until after the fact and the wheel was extremely difficult to turn off the road. Tried many times to get the engine to turn over, with no success. The car is currently being serviced by my dealership. So far, they've been able to tell me that it was the fuel gage fuse that blew. Their first guess was pinched wires around the sender opening, but found out that was not the reason. Fortunately, I'm under warranty and have a loaner car. They've fixed the problem (I've since seen the car running), but are still trying to figure out why it happened. Other than that, I love this car, no other problems, supercharged engine is awesome-lots of pep! I'll update this when I find out the final diagnosis.
  • I think I have heard the same noise in my 98 Regal. Mine started doing it immediatly after a transmission oil+filter change at 60,000 mi. It is intermittent but pretty regular. It does it only when slowing down. I thought it sounded like a dry scrape when the transmission kicks down to first gear while you slow the car down. I have not had it checked out but will and see if I can find an answer.
    If you have had the entire transmission replaced with no improvement, maybe it is something such as a cable attached to the transmission that is activated when slowing vehicle speed.
  • Any hints on how to replace spark plugs on the dash side bank? Detailed service manual didn't help.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Several newer G.M. ABS system do use integral wheel speed sensors which require hub/bearing assembly replacement. Had to do the right front on my 1996 Riv last week. I wasn't able to find an aftermarket unit.

    Regarding the alternator, ask your Buick dealer for the service bulletin which gives the part number for the larger alternator (and longer serpentine belt) which will eliminate the alternator frying problem.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I don't have the '99 spec handy, but the torque spec for the factory aluminum wheels on my '96 Riviera is 100 ft/lbs, and for the factory aluminum wheels on my '86 Laser it's 95 ft/lbs.

    If the owner's manual says 100 ft/lbs, it means 100 ft/lbs for the wheels the car came equipped with.
  • Free up at least 2 hours and work on a cold engine, that way there is less of a chance of pulling apart plug wires. Oh, and be prepared to make up new swear words and combine existing ones because you may be left with battle scars. You may want to remove the cheap plastic cover that says 3800 etc. Also make sure you have an assortment of extensions for your sockets. Have fun:)
  • Had a similar problem with stalling after car was warmed up. One time it took me two hours to go five miles. It was the late at night, no mechanics available and I had to get home.

    The mechanic changed regulator, alternator, etc. more than once. Eventually I found out it was the ignition module. It was an inexpensive part to buy and I installed it myself. Also, since I keep a car for many years I change all the fuses every two years.

  • I too have a 94 Buick Regal.

    As regard to the Engine light coming on during startup, I have the same problem. I too can turn around and restart it, and the light goes away. My understanding is that the problem is with the engine crank sensor for timing purposes. I have not had mine diagnosed yet, but I will very soon. It is getting annoying to say the least, plus more frequently happening too.

    I also have had my electric windows act up. I the driver's door window, has failed to function on several occasions. First I thought it was the switch, but after replacing the switch, it has occurred again. Currently it is working, and I do not know what is really causing it to fail. I can hear the motor trying to operate, but then a breaker sounds like it stops sending juice to the window motor. Still working on this one.

    Other than that, I have not had any real problems with the car. I bought it used with 45,000 miles on it in 1995. Now it has 103,000 on it. Pretty reliable so far. I do enjoy driving the car. It is one of the easiest cars I have ever driven. And yes I agree, they can be sleepers with the 3.8 liter engine. The car does really move.
  • dhay1dhay1 Posts: 4
    On a fairly regular basis, a noticeable smell I would describe as "hot"plastic/vinyl appears in the car. Several times on a calm day in bright sunlight, smoke comes out of the front in the area of the passenger side headlight area. By the time I pull over and lift the hood, the smoke or fumes are gone but the smell is strong. I cannot find anything melting/burning; everything works. Some previous postings mentioned a problem with the A/C fan motor. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • I noticed something funny, and want to know if any other Regal LS owners ever noticed the same thing.

    When driving, even under hard acceleration, there are no engine misses. However, when in Neutral and revved to 4K RPMS it starts missing, like it can't get enough fuel. This doesn't happen when driving, only when revving in Neutral (which I don't often do.)

    Is there a fuel cut off when revved to 4K RPMS in Neutral, or is something missing in the motor??
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The Powertrain Control Module doesn't like the combination of inputs it's seeing from throttle position, manifold pressure, mass air flow and R.P.M. It interprets this combination as a no load, high R.P.M. condition and is programmed to shut down injectors to prevent an engine grenade.
  • lkohnlkohn Posts: 13
    I had the stalling engine problem with my 1996 Chevy Corsica with the 3.1 engine. Here are the different things I did that seemed to solve the problem.

    Always keep the radiator fluid filled. When stuck in traffic, the car would get very hot and the engine would shut down. (Over time it got so hot that I had to replace the heater core because the plastic heater core connectors actually melted!)

    Get a new gas cap. This was suggested by a friend. Seems if the gas cap is not tightened properly or if the cap does not form a good seal, then air gets into the fuel system and could cause a stall.

    Get the EGR (or ERG) valve replaced. (This may be for California cars only. This part has something to do with the smog system.)

    Take extra keys/keychains off of the keychain that holds the ignition key. A Honda owning friend of mine had an engine stall problem and this turned out to be the culprit. I thought it was a bit far fetched but her car hasn't stalled since.
  • I also have a tie-rod problem with my 1999 Regal GS.

    The vehicle has had a vibration and tire-wear problem since new, and an independent mechanic diagnosed worn tie rods at 31,000 miles

    The Dealer, Century Buick in Tampa, FL has told me that "they're worn, but it's not bad enough to cover under warranty".

    Needless to say, I've involved Buick's Regional manager, but have yet to hear back from him.

    The dealership is full of B.S. and excuses, and tried to tell me "maybe you're over-sensitive to vibration". All the while, they did admit to having to replace the tie rods in several Regals the week before. What does it take, a class-action lawsuit?

    I have reported this to the NHTSA, but Buick still buries their collective heads in the sand, apparently afraid of a recall. I'm so disgusted with the whole thing that I'm ready to trade the car in, or lemon-law it, which is always a gamble.

    Anyone else with the same problems out there?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I had a 90 Grand Prix with the 3.1l V6. It too had the stalling problem. I'd be driving through Dallas on LBJ Freeway and the dang thing would just die... no power nuthin.. brakes, steering, engine.

    It ended up being the computer control module, which attaches near the firewall. I also ended up having problems with the ignition module/coil packs.

    This car was an electrical hell. I want the new 2001 Regal GS, pending spousal approval, but I have confidence GM has gotten a bit better over the last 10 years. :)

  • dhay1dhay1 Posts: 4
    Finaly got up the courage to change plugs. Nitro 3800 estimate of 2 hours bang on. I may require cosmetic surgery to my right forearm.At 79,000 kms plugs were in bad shape. A noticeable improvement in power.. The 2 hours spent "up close and personal" with the engine help me identify the problem I have with a "hot plastic / vinyl odor". The front valve cover seems to be leaking slightly, allowing oil down on to the exhaust mainfold. R & R of the gasket looks like a major operation , removing ignition coils/brackets etc. Any helpful hints?
This discussion has been closed.