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Buick Regal Problem
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Comments
The mechanic changed regulator, alternator, etc. more than once. Eventually I found out it was the ignition module. It was an inexpensive part to buy and I installed it myself. Also, since I keep a car for many years I change all the fuses every two years.
As regard to the Engine light coming on during startup, I have the same problem. I too can turn around and restart it, and the light goes away. My understanding is that the problem is with the engine crank sensor for timing purposes. I have not had mine diagnosed yet, but I will very soon. It is getting annoying to say the least, plus more frequently happening too.
I also have had my electric windows act up. I the driver's door window, has failed to function on several occasions. First I thought it was the switch, but after replacing the switch, it has occurred again. Currently it is working, and I do not know what is really causing it to fail. I can hear the motor trying to operate, but then a breaker sounds like it stops sending juice to the window motor. Still working on this one.
Other than that, I have not had any real problems with the car. I bought it used with 45,000 miles on it in 1995. Now it has 103,000 on it. Pretty reliable so far. I do enjoy driving the car. It is one of the easiest cars I have ever driven. And yes I agree, they can be sleepers with the 3.8 liter engine. The car does really move.
When driving, even under hard acceleration, there are no engine misses. However, when in Neutral and revved to 4K RPMS it starts missing, like it can't get enough fuel. This doesn't happen when driving, only when revving in Neutral (which I don't often do.)
Is there a fuel cut off when revved to 4K RPMS in Neutral, or is something missing in the motor??
Always keep the radiator fluid filled. When stuck in traffic, the car would get very hot and the engine would shut down. (Over time it got so hot that I had to replace the heater core because the plastic heater core connectors actually melted!)
Get a new gas cap. This was suggested by a friend. Seems if the gas cap is not tightened properly or if the cap does not form a good seal, then air gets into the fuel system and could cause a stall.
Get the EGR (or ERG) valve replaced. (This may be for California cars only. This part has something to do with the smog system.)
Take extra keys/keychains off of the keychain that holds the ignition key. A Honda owning friend of mine had an engine stall problem and this turned out to be the culprit. I thought it was a bit far fetched but her car hasn't stalled since.
The vehicle has had a vibration and tire-wear problem since new, and an independent mechanic diagnosed worn tie rods at 31,000 miles
The Dealer, Century Buick in Tampa, FL has told me that "they're worn, but it's not bad enough to cover under warranty".
Needless to say, I've involved Buick's Regional manager, but have yet to hear back from him.
The dealership is full of B.S. and excuses, and tried to tell me "maybe you're over-sensitive to vibration". All the while, they did admit to having to replace the tie rods in several Regals the week before. What does it take, a class-action lawsuit?
I have reported this to the NHTSA, but Buick still buries their collective heads in the sand, apparently afraid of a recall. I'm so disgusted with the whole thing that I'm ready to trade the car in, or lemon-law it, which is always a gamble.
Anyone else with the same problems out there?
It ended up being the computer control module, which attaches near the firewall. I also ended up having problems with the ignition module/coil packs.
This car was an electrical hell. I want the new 2001 Regal GS, pending spousal approval, but I have confidence GM has gotten a bit better over the last 10 years.
Paul
I have had no problems with rattles, stalling or tire wear problems. Its a 99 GS with 17K miles on it, and I don't expect to replace the tires for another 15K (not bad for a very torquey FWD with a lead foot driver).
I have been very pleased with this car. Even though it hasn't been perfect, it has been better than our last 3 japanese cars.
I enjoy the performance and handling (I do wish they came with better tires). The brakes are great. Some people complain that the car has a top speed governor (110 mph, or something like that), but since I never drive that fast its a don't care for me. Its very fun to drive up I70 to the ski resort areas and outrun the so called "sports cars" on the uphill sections of the road.
We have been so pleased with this car that we just replaced my wife's Nissan with a 2000 Impala.
love the car, but one real issue: the seats have no lumbar support to speak of. anyone else with this issue?
rods looked at. Frankk
I also had to hae my passenger side power window motor replaced on my 99 GSE. The sunroof switch went bad too. For all the little nigglng problems I have had since I've bought the car, it has been a great ride though.
I would love to do something, but what?
My problem: The ABS light comes on and there is a whirring sound that repeats over and over. The whirring sometimes continues after the car is stopped and drains the battery. My mechanic has replaced a leaking switch in the ABS but this did not solve the problem. Any suggestions?
The ABS *seems* to be working. If I try to force a braking skid, it pulses the brakes. I'm wondering now if the mechanic bothered to bleed the brake lines. (Guess I need to call him.) I'm wondering if the whirring noise is a pump trying to maintain pressure in the system.
BTW, I just got a recall for my car to have the engine mount(s?) replaced. I'm gonna have the dealer look into to dash light while I'm there.
I'm going to head over to a local leather seat / convertible top shop in my town and see if they can add some material to enhance the lumbar support. I won't be able to adjust it, but hope that it will improve the situation.
Any one out there with any other suggestions??
Thanks
It still has a whirring sound coming from the brake pedal area. the noise sounds like it is trying to build brake pressure. My antilock system was not working correctly- the fuses were pulled and the system was disengaged.
Will this pump system ever fail?- I am very afraid. Has anyoneone seen a solution?
1 - Anyone know of any "know issues" with transmissions on the 99 Regals?
2 - What are my options regarding working with Buick to get some sort of warranty exception?
Any help and opinions would be appreciated.
The worst lemon we ever owned was a 89 Toyota Camry which we took a bath on and made us swear we would never own another foreign car.All car companies foreign or domestic build lemons once in awhile.
One of the most dependable cars I ever owned was a used 77 Toyota Celica GT that leaked engine oil from the time I got it but ran great up to 175,000 miles before the body rotted off it.
I have a nice-looking 1990 Regal GS with the 3.1 V6. My brake lights stopped working, and the dealer said it was the turn signal switch. I think they're right, because when you turn the wipers on now (with the same stalk-style switch), smoke comes from inside the steering column, accompanied by a strong electrical-fire type of odor. How do you get to this switch to replace it? The steering wheel has controls in it for the stereo- how do they hook up?
This has already been an expensive car to own, so I can't stop buying new parts now!!
Any problems with that? Does anyone know what the oil is in this unit, owner's manual only gives a part # absolutely no specs or alternatives. The Buick parts depts says, "it comes in a quart container and I have no idea wha t is in it. " Is it engine oil (dino or synthetic) transmission fluid, gear oil or some other concoction??????
re: if plain ole engine oil fine, if Dexron III fluid fine but what are the specs, for some reason they refuse to print them in the manual?
As for rattles, etc., I haven't heard one. I had owned a 97.5 GS that had a rattle or three; still I was happy with the car (it got totalled no thanks to a city garbage truck). Other then disappointing gas mileage (60% highway/40% city = 19.5 mpg), this 2000 GS hasn't disappointed me yet after 3,500 miles.
Hope this helps.
In agreement with others, had to have my comfort center display replaced. Passenger window goes up slowly, like so many others. Hopefully dealer will repair. Having slight transmission problems. Hope they don't turn out to be big ones like some others.
Buy a Buick and buy the best, drive a mile and walk the rest.
To the shop tomorrow!
The most annoying rattle is in the dashboard. I took the car in to a dealer here in Austin, and the service manager had me drive the car so he could hear the rattle. As luck would have it, the temperature had dropped that day, and the rattle disappeared. (hmmmm). But I left the car with them anyway and told them exactly where the rattle was and that if they would just remove the lower panel on the dashboard by the temperature controls, they would probably see what it was. (Wishful thinking) Arriving the next afternoon to pick up the car, I was told that they did nothing about the rattle since they couldn't replicate the sound. Man, was I ticked! By the time I got the car home, the rattle was back, only this time I discovered EXACTLY where it was. It was inside the panel of the temperature controls. When I pushed in on it, the rattle stopped. So now the car goes back in for another inconvenient day of life without transportation.
My car is a great looking vehicle, but the rattles and loose-feeling suspension have really soured me on Buick. This was my first one, and I assumed Buick produced solid fitting vehicles. I have serious doubts about that now. I probably won't buy Buick again.
For the past few weeks I have noticed on the overdrive shift that the engine increases in RPM's (about 300) and then drops to the next gear. I haven't seen this with any other shifts, just this one. Do I have a problem here or is this normal? I may have become more conscious of this recently but to me it just seemed weird. Is this the torque converter not locking up?
I purchase a used 1994 Buick Regal last August and it now has 80000 miles on it. It has the 3800. I was wondering if anyone had any performance improvements I can make to the engine and/or other parts. Ultimately to produce improved power and gas mileage if possible. I would really like to see improved power. If you could also direct me to some instructions or parts that I may need. I really have no complaints except for the ac compressor is shot and making a lot of noice but I am getting that replaced. Thank you for any improvements...
maf sensor
map sensor
coolant sensor
temperature sensor
coil pack
module under coil pack
plugs
wires
fuel filter
checked fuel pump...using the jumper lead by the battery...it whirred...so I assumed it to be ok
nuetral saftey module(wow thats an expensive one)
and after all of these...all the idiot lights returned to normal...no more coolant light or service engine light. It ran almost normal for a couple of weeks...although if I held the engine at 3000 rpms in nuetral...it would have a slight clicking sounding backfire once in a while. Then a few weeks later it began to take a couple of tries to start....now I can't even get it to idle more than 30 seconds before it dies...and if I try to drive it....it dies...and I am getting NO error codes now on the computer...despite the fact.....it is in many ways worse than ever....please give me some advice....RICK...DESPERATE IN CHICAGO
1) Engine stalls at slow speed, and all dash lights come on.
2) Pressed brake petal to shift out of park, heared a whinning at the petal, and shift was locked up. Off/On - fine.
3) Turned key, and nothing. Turn key again, and starts!
4) At one point, Speedo needle jumped to 120 and back a couple of times, and various dash lights come on and stay on for a minute, then go off.
Computer checked out good. Problem seems to be getting worse with time. Has anyone had this fixed with something besides replacing every part?