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Buick Regal Problem

2

Comments

  • nitro3800nitro3800 Member Posts: 2
    Free up at least 2 hours and work on a cold engine, that way there is less of a chance of pulling apart plug wires. Oh, and be prepared to make up new swear words and combine existing ones because you may be left with battle scars. You may want to remove the cheap plastic cover that says 3800 etc. Also make sure you have an assortment of extensions for your sockets. Have fun:)
  • dclaudesmithdclaudesmith Member Posts: 2
    Had a similar problem with stalling after car was warmed up. One time it took me two hours to go five miles. It was the late at night, no mechanics available and I had to get home.

    The mechanic changed regulator, alternator, etc. more than once. Eventually I found out it was the ignition module. It was an inexpensive part to buy and I installed it myself. Also, since I keep a car for many years I change all the fuses every two years.

  • gstanisgstanis Member Posts: 1
    I too have a 94 Buick Regal.

    As regard to the Engine light coming on during startup, I have the same problem. I too can turn around and restart it, and the light goes away. My understanding is that the problem is with the engine crank sensor for timing purposes. I have not had mine diagnosed yet, but I will very soon. It is getting annoying to say the least, plus more frequently happening too.

    I also have had my electric windows act up. I the driver's door window, has failed to function on several occasions. First I thought it was the switch, but after replacing the switch, it has occurred again. Currently it is working, and I do not know what is really causing it to fail. I can hear the motor trying to operate, but then a breaker sounds like it stops sending juice to the window motor. Still working on this one.

    Other than that, I have not had any real problems with the car. I bought it used with 45,000 miles on it in 1995. Now it has 103,000 on it. Pretty reliable so far. I do enjoy driving the car. It is one of the easiest cars I have ever driven. And yes I agree, they can be sleepers with the 3.8 liter engine. The car does really move.
  • dhay1dhay1 Member Posts: 4
    On a fairly regular basis, a noticeable smell I would describe as "hot"plastic/vinyl appears in the car. Several times on a calm day in bright sunlight, smoke comes out of the front in the area of the passenger side headlight area. By the time I pull over and lift the hood, the smoke or fumes are gone but the smell is strong. I cannot find anything melting/burning; everything works. Some previous postings mentioned a problem with the A/C fan motor. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • jpmiller99jpmiller99 Member Posts: 50
    I noticed something funny, and want to know if any other Regal LS owners ever noticed the same thing.

    When driving, even under hard acceleration, there are no engine misses. However, when in Neutral and revved to 4K RPMS it starts missing, like it can't get enough fuel. This doesn't happen when driving, only when revving in Neutral (which I don't often do.)

    Is there a fuel cut off when revved to 4K RPMS in Neutral, or is something missing in the motor??
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The Powertrain Control Module doesn't like the combination of inputs it's seeing from throttle position, manifold pressure, mass air flow and R.P.M. It interprets this combination as a no load, high R.P.M. condition and is programmed to shut down injectors to prevent an engine grenade.
  • lkohnlkohn Member Posts: 13
    I had the stalling engine problem with my 1996 Chevy Corsica with the 3.1 engine. Here are the different things I did that seemed to solve the problem.

    Always keep the radiator fluid filled. When stuck in traffic, the car would get very hot and the engine would shut down. (Over time it got so hot that I had to replace the heater core because the plastic heater core connectors actually melted!)

    Get a new gas cap. This was suggested by a friend. Seems if the gas cap is not tightened properly or if the cap does not form a good seal, then air gets into the fuel system and could cause a stall.

    Get the EGR (or ERG) valve replaced. (This may be for California cars only. This part has something to do with the smog system.)

    Take extra keys/keychains off of the keychain that holds the ignition key. A Honda owning friend of mine had an engine stall problem and this turned out to be the culprit. I thought it was a bit far fetched but her car hasn't stalled since.
  • drdave35drdave35 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a tie-rod problem with my 1999 Regal GS.

    The vehicle has had a vibration and tire-wear problem since new, and an independent mechanic diagnosed worn tie rods at 31,000 miles

    The Dealer, Century Buick in Tampa, FL has told me that "they're worn, but it's not bad enough to cover under warranty".

    Needless to say, I've involved Buick's Regional manager, but have yet to hear back from him.

    The dealership is full of B.S. and excuses, and tried to tell me "maybe you're over-sensitive to vibration". All the while, they did admit to having to replace the tie rods in several Regals the week before. What does it take, a class-action lawsuit?

    I have reported this to the NHTSA, but Buick still buries their collective heads in the sand, apparently afraid of a recall. I'm so disgusted with the whole thing that I'm ready to trade the car in, or lemon-law it, which is always a gamble.

    Anyone else with the same problems out there?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I had a 90 Grand Prix with the 3.1l V6. It too had the stalling problem. I'd be driving through Dallas on LBJ Freeway and the dang thing would just die... no power nuthin.. brakes, steering, engine.

    It ended up being the computer control module, which attaches near the firewall. I also ended up having problems with the ignition module/coil packs.

    This car was an electrical hell. I want the new 2001 Regal GS, pending spousal approval, but I have confidence GM has gotten a bit better over the last 10 years. :)

    Paul
  • dhay1dhay1 Member Posts: 4
    Finaly got up the courage to change plugs. Nitro 3800 estimate of 2 hours bang on. I may require cosmetic surgery to my right forearm.At 79,000 kms plugs were in bad shape. A noticeable improvement in power.. The 2 hours spent "up close and personal" with the engine help me identify the problem I have with a "hot plastic / vinyl odor". The front valve cover seems to be leaking slightly, allowing oil down on to the exhaust mainfold. R & R of the gasket looks like a major operation , removing ignition coils/brackets etc. Any helpful hints?
  • frankkfrankk Member Posts: 35
    I had the power window motors on the two passenger side door fail (intermittently). The dealer replaced them and they have been fine since. Also had a funny squeek in the back seat once, also fixed by the dealer.

    I have had no problems with rattles, stalling or tire wear problems. Its a 99 GS with 17K miles on it, and I don't expect to replace the tires for another 15K (not bad for a very torquey FWD with a lead foot driver).

    I have been very pleased with this car. Even though it hasn't been perfect, it has been better than our last 3 japanese cars.

    I enjoy the performance and handling (I do wish they came with better tires). The brakes are great. Some people complain that the car has a top speed governor (110 mph, or something like that), but since I never drive that fast its a don't care for me. Its very fun to drive up I70 to the ski resort areas and outrun the so called "sports cars" on the uphill sections of the road.

    We have been so pleased with this car that we just replaced my wife's Nissan with a 2000 Impala.
  • nymjknymjk Member Posts: 5
    picked up my new 2000 GS two weeks ago, 685 miles on the odometer.
    love the car, but one real issue: the seats have no lumbar support to speak of. anyone else with this issue?
  • bporter1bporter1 Member Posts: 229
    I have yet to take my car in to have the tie
    rods looked at. Frankk
    I also had to hae my passenger side power window motor replaced on my 99 GSE. The sunroof switch went bad too. For all the little nigglng problems I have had since I've bought the car, it has been a great ride though.
  • jpmiller99jpmiller99 Member Posts: 50
    I agree that the seats on the Regal have no lumbar support. I car that I have/had has better lumbar support.

    I would love to do something, but what?
  • dhay1dhay1 Member Posts: 4
    Oil is leaking from most major gaskets; both valve covers,oil pan etc; not enough to drip but everything is wet. I use Quaker State 100% synthetic 10-30. I have heard some synthetic oil causes the silicon in some gaskets to deteriorate and become porous. Has anyone experienced similar oil leaks? Any cures?
  • cmm30cmm30 Member Posts: 1
    When my '91 Buick was stalling it turned out that the computer was reporting faults that didn't exist and stalling the car. Once the computer was replaced the stalling stopped.

    My problem: The ABS light comes on and there is a whirring sound that repeats over and over. The whirring sometimes continues after the car is stopped and drains the battery. My mechanic has replaced a leaking switch in the ABS but this did not solve the problem. Any suggestions?
  • johnwesley01johnwesley01 Member Posts: 1
    My '90 Regal has the same problem w/ the ABS light and the noise (no stalling). It started when I replaced the front brake pads. The rear pads were such a b*tch, I took it to a mechanic. He hooked up a code reader to decipher the ABS light prob, but said it didn't register anything.

    The ABS *seems* to be working. If I try to force a braking skid, it pulses the brakes. I'm wondering now if the mechanic bothered to bleed the brake lines. (Guess I need to call him.) I'm wondering if the whirring noise is a pump trying to maintain pressure in the system.

    BTW, I just got a recall for my car to have the engine mount(s?) replaced. I'm gonna have the dealer look into to dash light while I'm there.
  • nymjknymjk Member Posts: 5
    JP,
    I'm going to head over to a local leather seat / convertible top shop in my town and see if they can add some material to enhance the lumbar support. I won't be able to adjust it, but hope that it will improve the situation.

    Any one out there with any other suggestions??
  • drivehard1drivehard1 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 1993 Buick Regal with 77900 miles and the 3.1 Liter engine. I have a couple of porblems. One, the engine in the morning has hesitaion, like when you push the accelorator down the engine rpms drop suddenly and rev, and also goign along with that is when you are in drive and you stop and push the gas the same hesitation happens. The other area of concern is the transmission?? When it downshifts it is abrupt and sudden, i have noticed this more in the winter then in the summer! Does anybody have any ideas?
    Thanks
  • meyersejmeyersej Member Posts: 13
    The condition you describe (missing when revved above 4K RPM, but only when in neutral) is normal. Many GM cars I've owned have exhibited this trait. I first noticed it on a 94 Saturn I had and the dealer explained that it was normal and was to prevent you from over-revving the engine in neutral.
  • 91regal91regal Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 1991 regal for two years now- I bought it second hand at 82,000 miles. It now has 128,000 on it.

    It still has a whirring sound coming from the brake pedal area. the noise sounds like it is trying to build brake pressure. My antilock system was not working correctly- the fuses were pulled and the system was disengaged.

    Will this pump system ever fail?- I am very afraid. Has anyoneone seen a solution?
  • thenimble1thenimble1 Member Posts: 5
    I've got a 99 Regal LS with 43K miles. Have had terrible knocking and clunking when shifting. Dealer has said that the repair costs would be close to $3000.00. I may be out of line, but that seems like a lot of money for a major component that is less than 10K miles out of warranty. The service manager contacted Buick on my behalf and was told that no assistance would be granted. He suggested that I contact Buick myself. I've done that today and will hear back on Thursday. My questions to you:

    1 - Anyone know of any "know issues" with transmissions on the 99 Regals?

    2 - What are my options regarding working with Buick to get some sort of warranty exception?

    Any help and opinions would be appreciated.
  • dennis80dennis80 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 LS with 30K. The trip odometer will kick in while driving over-riding the odometer. You cannot disengage it. At this same time the tack stops working. It may sit at zero or at 1k. The "fill washer" light comes on. After a couple of days everything is back to normal and it may stay that way for weeks and then start again. Dealer says they'll replace instrument module. I hate to have them digging around in the dash when maybe the problem is at the fuse areas and will repeat it self with a new module. Would you expect any competent person to first see if the electrical problem exists at the fuse box wiring? Isn't this like changing the light fixture when only the bulb is burnt out? Any comments, suggestions or similar experiences?
  • thenimble1thenimble1 Member Posts: 5
    I've not experienced the trouble that you report, but I have had the climate control display go out on me. Seems to be worse on cold mornings. I'm told that it is a $600.00 repair. I think I'll deal with it and hope that it is just a cold weather thing.
  • regalloverregallover Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Regal GS and love it. I just hit 40,000 miles. Two days ago I blew the transmission! I had just driven 150 miles at 65-70 mph on the highway and had slowed down to a crawl (in town) when the car started vibrating. Was going 8-10 mph, getting ready to make a left turn when the front end "clunked". I pulled over and parked the car. Each time I pulled forward it clunked...tried to back up and got nothing... It only revved like it was in neutral. My husband looked under the hood and said the whole engine shifted each time I put it in gear. Of course I was out of warranty!! I had it towed to a Buick dealer anyway. The mechanic did an inspection (checked fluid levels, etc.) said I blew the trans...thinks a bearing broke loose and took out the gears (??) The dealership was great about it. Promised GM would pay for it... that something like this shouldn't have happened (maybe my crying in front of him didn't hurt). This is the first problem I have had with this Regal. I traded in a 1988 Regal with over 200,000 miles on it for this one. Husband thinks maybe the trans was too small for the supercharger 3800. Good luck with your Regal. My engine is a little bigger than yours but the story is similar. I would definitely fight it out with GM if I were you. A trans should certainly last longer than 40 to 50K!!
  • toptech1toptech1 Member Posts: 1
    When we picked up the car an annoying knocking developed every time we accelerated. After numerous returns to the dealer it was finally fixed. We have also had a oil leak since it was new. Valve cover gaskets have been replaced and it still leaks oil. We took the car back to the dealer 16 times the first year. We complained to Buick but that did not help. Today we still own the Buick Regal and just ignore the oil leaks and rattles it has. We have decided this will be the last American car we own.
  • regalluvr1regalluvr1 Member Posts: 53
    to hear of the problems with your 97.5 Regal.We currently have (5) liscensed Regals and have driven mostly Regals since 1984.All have been very dependable and almost trouble free.

    The worst lemon we ever owned was a 89 Toyota Camry which we took a bath on and made us swear we would never own another foreign car.All car companies foreign or domestic build lemons once in awhile.

    One of the most dependable cars I ever owned was a used 77 Toyota Celica GT that leaked engine oil from the time I got it but ran great up to 175,000 miles before the body rotted off it.
  • lissyannalissyanna Member Posts: 1
    My brakes go out on me (once while I was on the freeway which wasn't fun). They tell me that I need to reset my brakes by setting the parking brake, but that doesn't work anymore. The brakes have already been replaced once before - does it need to be done again?
  • mikedunbarmikedunbar Member Posts: 2
    Hello, knowledgeable people--
    I have a nice-looking 1990 Regal GS with the 3.1 V6. My brake lights stopped working, and the dealer said it was the turn signal switch. I think they're right, because when you turn the wipers on now (with the same stalk-style switch), smoke comes from inside the steering column, accompanied by a strong electrical-fire type of odor. How do you get to this switch to replace it? The steering wheel has controls in it for the stereo- how do they hook up?
    This has already been an expensive car to own, so I can't stop buying new parts now!!
  • mikedunbarmikedunbar Member Posts: 2
    johnwesley01 wrote that he was going to the dealer to have this recall modification done. I hope so--I didn't, and when they towed my car ten miles, the engine fell out onto the ground when they put it down. The dealer did fix it for free, but it would have been quite dangerous if the same thing happened while I was driving.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Assuming you have a steering wheel puller and a steering lock plate remover/installer, it's a relatively straighforward job. If not I'd recommend having a professional do it. Btw, the brake light circuit is routed through the signal switch. Did you ever notice that when the car ahead of you brakes and signals, the signal flashes the brake light on that side? The switch can be easily diagnosed by disconnecting the harness for the old one at the steering column, and plugging the new one in prior to installation.
  • will38will38 Member Posts: 30
    I own a 99 Reagl GS, The front door panels suck in when the windows are lowered. Does anyone else have this problem? The passenger side door panel also has a rattle in it. I thought they might be related. I had a rattle in the dash that was looked at. They moved the wiring harness. It helped but another rattle has appeared. I also have a small rattle somewhere on the driver's side. But I can't pinpoint it. The dealer doesn't seem to want to look for it. They told me to turn up the radio. I did, but the passenger side door panel rattles. The headliner also rattles but I tighten that myself. Besides the squeaks and rattles I really like the car. I have owned 8 other new Buicks and this is the first one that disappointed me.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Is your GS supercharged????

    Any problems with that? Does anyone know what the oil is in this unit, owner's manual only gives a part # absolutely no specs or alternatives. The Buick parts depts says, "it comes in a quart container and I have no idea wha t is in it. " Is it engine oil (dino or synthetic) transmission fluid, gear oil or some other concoction??????
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Read post #102 in Pontiac Bonneville Problems. The part # is for 8 oz. bottles. Takes about 2 1/2.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    What is the lubricant? Is it engine oil, gear oil, transmission fluid or a unique blend and are there substitutes?????????
    re: if plain ole engine oil fine, if Dexron III fluid fine but what are the specs, for some reason they refuse to print them in the manual?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I'm not sure what the formulation is but my Riviera factory manual is pretty specific about NOT using anything other than GM supercharger oil. It isn't engine oil, ATF, or typical high viscosity gear lube. It may have extreme pressure or friction modifying additives, but $3,200 Cdn to replace a blown one is too much for me to screw around with. I'm assuming the engineers who designed it know their business, so when I changed mine by syphoning out all the old lube and refilling I used what the manual called for. Three 8 oz bottles @ $10 per.
  • BushwackBushwack Member Posts: 258
    FWIW... I have a 2000 GS (as does my sister-in-law). Both our front door windows are a bit more 'authoritive' when going up or down. But so were other Regals on the car lot when I bought the car.

    As for rattles, etc., I haven't heard one. I had owned a 97.5 GS that had a rattle or three; still I was happy with the car (it got totalled no thanks to a city garbage truck). Other then disappointing gas mileage (60% highway/40% city = 19.5 mpg), this 2000 GS hasn't disappointed me yet after 3,500 miles.
  • jdg3jdg3 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, noises seem to be a common theme. I have a couple of solutions. I have 4. One is the side window vent. Dealer seems to be able to fix with silicone. Driver door frame, no luck yet. Driver side visor: panels inside visor rattle. Dealer will either replace or stuff something in between the panels. Big I found was a dash rattle that seemed to puzzle a lot of people. Mine is coming from the instrument panel shield. When you hear the rattle, push on the clear lens of the instrument panel shield and it stops. Don't know how the dealer will fix it yet. Mine is still under warranty so they will fix it.
    Hope this helps.

    In agreement with others, had to have my comfort center display replaced. Passenger window goes up slowly, like so many others. Hopefully dealer will repair. Having slight transmission problems. Hope they don't turn out to be big ones like some others.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Yep, picked up the Regal 2000 model about a week ago and it now has 700 miles on it and it is leaking oil in puddles. I really wanted the Maxima but this 2000 GSE was on the lot and they were giving it away so I took it. Ah, American quality.

    Buy a Buick and buy the best, drive a mile and walk the rest.

    To the shop tomorrow!
  • crew6crew6 Member Posts: 2
    In reference to Will38's comment about the door panels "sucking in" when windows are lowered, I, too, have noticed that on my 99 GS. It's especially noticeable when the window closes. I can feel the whole door panel re-adjust. It's a little annoying, but doesn't create any other problems beyond that. There is a rattle in the driver's door, however, along with everywhere else on this car. (My 93 Ford Ranger which I just sold had far less rattles than this car.)

    The most annoying rattle is in the dashboard. I took the car in to a dealer here in Austin, and the service manager had me drive the car so he could hear the rattle. As luck would have it, the temperature had dropped that day, and the rattle disappeared. (hmmmm). But I left the car with them anyway and told them exactly where the rattle was and that if they would just remove the lower panel on the dashboard by the temperature controls, they would probably see what it was. (Wishful thinking) Arriving the next afternoon to pick up the car, I was told that they did nothing about the rattle since they couldn't replicate the sound. Man, was I ticked! By the time I got the car home, the rattle was back, only this time I discovered EXACTLY where it was. It was inside the panel of the temperature controls. When I pushed in on it, the rattle stopped. So now the car goes back in for another inconvenient day of life without transportation.

    My car is a great looking vehicle, but the rattles and loose-feeling suspension have really soured me on Buick. This was my first one, and I assumed Buick produced solid fitting vehicles. I have serious doubts about that now. I probably won't buy Buick again.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Service says the bolts on the oil pan were loose and that should do it. Okay, so how did this get past quality control. Should not happen on a car with 700 niles!
  • michigansammichigansam Member Posts: 1
    After driveing car, and when parked it leaks coo lent. Shouldent a water pump last longer? I only have 25k miles on car
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Could be hoses crakced or simply loose.
  • stimpsjdstimpsjd Member Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Buick Regal 2dr., 3800 V6, 54000 miles. Only non-scheduled repair has been a transmission cooling line.

    For the past few weeks I have noticed on the overdrive shift that the engine increases in RPM's (about 300) and then drops to the next gear. I haven't seen this with any other shifts, just this one. Do I have a problem here or is this normal? I may have become more conscious of this recently but to me it just seemed weird. Is this the torque converter not locking up?
  • mthoskins1mthoskins1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,
    I purchase a used 1994 Buick Regal last August and it now has 80000 miles on it. It has the 3800. I was wondering if anyone had any performance improvements I can make to the engine and/or other parts. Ultimately to produce improved power and gas mileage if possible. I would really like to see improved power. If you could also direct me to some instructions or parts that I may need. I really have no complaints except for the ac compressor is shot and making a lot of noice but I am getting that replaced. Thank you for any improvements...
  • windycityrickwindycityrick Member Posts: 1
    I am desperate.... after $1000 in new parts and hundreds of dollars in diagnostics....the problems continue. It all started 4 months ago with a slight miss... and a coolant light... then progressed to periodic dying at idle... then a service engine light. But until the the service engine light, the car was very drive able. As time went on the engine would click out... even at highway speeds... although not fully die. So... started replacing the error code parts. I have replaced the following parts....
    maf sensor
    map sensor
    coolant sensor
    temperature sensor
    coil pack
    module under coil pack
    plugs
    wires
    fuel filter
    checked fuel pump...using the jumper lead by the battery...it whirred...so I assumed it to be ok
    nuetral saftey module(wow thats an expensive one)

    and after all of these...all the idiot lights returned to normal...no more coolant light or service engine light. It ran almost normal for a couple of weeks...although if I held the engine at 3000 rpms in nuetral...it would have a slight clicking sounding backfire once in a while. Then a few weeks later it began to take a couple of tries to start....now I can't even get it to idle more than 30 seconds before it dies...and if I try to drive it....it dies...and I am getting NO error codes now on the computer...despite the fact.....it is in many ways worse than ever....please give me some advice....RICK...DESPERATE IN CHICAGO
  • dfwsunsetdfwsunset Member Posts: 8
    Buick Regal 1991 - After 11 years and 221,000 miles - Bad design on the caliper- We are waiting for the refund check from the class action law suit filed. We received the info in Oct 2000, still own the car and had the repair bills. Power window driver side replaced the part however knock three times on the driver door to open the window. NEED INFO please on the ECM same as PCM. Electronic Control Module/Power Control Module. After 200,000 we replace the module and the CAM sensor. EXACTLY ONE YEAR and 21,000 miles later we need a new ECM/PCM and they have not said what else. It may appear as another bad design when one of the sensors goes out the ECM/PCM (the brains) blows out. The part was under warranty for One Year/12,000 miles. We were under one year but lost it on 9,000 miles. Please send info if you have replaced your ECM/PCM.
  • will38will38 Member Posts: 30
    I took my car in for a oil change at a different dealer this time. I told them about the rattle in the door panel. THEY FIXED IT !!!!! It was loose door lock rods. They replaced them under warranty. Also, I mentioned my disappearing temperature display on the climate control. Since I didn't mention this at the time I made the appointment, I told them I would bring the car back on another day. They said they would fix it the same day. I haven't purchased a car from this dealer. I guarantee I will give them my business if their new car prices are reasonable. I will keep everyone posted when I have the other rattles looked at.
  • chenigechenige Member Posts: 1
    The quality of the new style 2000 model year Regal is much better than the old pre 97 style and the old 95 Park Avenue. Per JD Power the problems per hundred on the 2000 Regal is lower than the 96 Camry that you owned.
  • garypcgarypc Member Posts: 12
    Out of the blue, my 97.5 GS just started having these symptoms I've read about here.

    1) Engine stalls at slow speed, and all dash lights come on.

    2) Pressed brake petal to shift out of park, heared a whinning at the petal, and shift was locked up. Off/On - fine.

    3) Turned key, and nothing. Turn key again, and starts!

    4) At one point, Speedo needle jumped to 120 and back a couple of times, and various dash lights come on and stay on for a minute, then go off.

    Computer checked out good. Problem seems to be getting worse with time. Has anyone had this fixed with something besides replacing every part?
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