Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • weav727weav727 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2000 EX coupe 5 speed also. I occasionally have trouble getting into reverse. I usually go to first and then to reverse, or go to neutral, let the clutch out and try again. One or the other will work.
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    If your car is no longer under warranty then you really don't need to go to the dealer for anything. The only thing I go to my dealers for is free warranty work when needed. I have all my maintanance and repairs done elsewhere. You will pay far less if you shop around for a reputable and avoid the dealerships.
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Could you elaborate when you say "the car decelerates quickly down to a really slow idle"? Idle is usually used to describe a condition when the car is not in gear or rolling and the RPM around 700 (or whatever the curb idle RPM is specked to be). It sounds to me like a normal Honda transmission from what you've described to be honest. First gear is meant as a "launch" gear and if you don't use the clutch while you're varying speeds I would expect it to lurch on you. As for second, I would expect it to do the same but to a lesser extent. On my Civics, I keep my foot steady on the accelerator while in those gears. When I have to change speeds in those gears (like when going over a speed bump) I will depress the clutch just for the change then let up and drive normal again.

    If your car truly is misbehaving in an abnormal way, it could be considered "clutch chatter". In Subarus anyway the condition usually effects drivers when first getting going in first gear (especially in cold weather) when the car shakes and bucks unless you clutch it hard. It's sometimes considered normal in Subarus because of the flywheel they use, but in other cars, I suppose it could be caused by a worn down flywheel I think. Something to look into anyway.

    You might try test driving a new Civic and just comparing the difference to see if it's more that you need to get used to driving Civics or if it really is something flaky with your car that you should pursue.

    Hope that helps
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,335
    Dealers HAVE to be able to diagnose and solve problems with the cars they sell. a lot of good independants out there to be sure but when they throw up their hands, guess who gets to fix the problems?
  • yleecoyoteyleecoyote Member Posts: 32
    Just a quick update on my experience with my 2001 EX Coupe. Right at 150,000 miles since buying new in the summer of 2001. I replaced the front struts with Koni's around 60,000 after they caused problems due to leaking. I replaced the rears with Koni's as well around 140,000 miles. That has been the only maintenance concern that I have had.
    Believe it or not, still driving with the original front brake pads, at the last tire rotation still had about 1/4 inch on the pads. Around 10,000 miles ago, I thought the valves were rattling a little more than usual. Checked, the exhaust valves were at the limit of the maximum clearance, intake valves were very close to the minimum.
    I'm still running on the original plugs, mileage is 37 to 38 mpg, cruising at 73mph on the interstate.
    Great little car, doing what I ask it to do, support my 50,000 mile per year commute. I am expecting 250,000 miles from the car and it doesn't look like it will disappoint me.
    Happy motoring!
  • atworklisteneratworklistener Member Posts: 1

    I too have started to hear this noise at 80mph. Do you have a fix for it?

  • drejdrej Member Posts: 119
    Hi Our 91 CRX auto- has the shift select lever stuck in Reverse. I dissassembled the console and determined its' the shifter in the transmission?. I first thought it was the shift interlock but its fine. The car (130K) had some recent history of difficult shift from park to drive,... it got worse & now its stuck in Revese! I could... if I forced it... get it back into drive or park... I did manage to get the keys out but back to reverse it is. Help! I disconnected the batery for now. Is there some Tranny adjustment?
    Thankx ~D!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H EdmundsAdministrator Posts: 11,126
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  • carconfusedcarconfused Member Posts: 5
    I am trying to buy a used Honda civic from a person and I need to take it to a reliable mechanic in Boston MA... does anyone have any advice? The car's history seems clean according to the history report. It's a 98 civic EX with 80,000 miles, I was told these are reliable cars that last, does anyone have any advice? I'm sort of lost in this process and my old car was recently totalled so i am looking to replace it.
  • carconfusedcarconfused Member Posts: 5
    I am looking at a used Honda Civic EX 80,000 miles in boston, I need to take it to e mechanic for an inspeaction to make sure it's as good as it seems... does anyone have any advice?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I am looking at a used Honda Civic EX 80,000 miles in boston, I need to take it to e mechanic for an inspeaction to make sure it's as good as it seems... does anyone have any advice?

    Who was maintaining your old car that was just totaled? Take it to the same guy. That would be a good start.
  • er3456er3456 Member Posts: 2
    Call AAA and ask for a local garage in your area that participates in their VIP program (Vehicle Inspection Program).

    I used it when I was looking for used cars. It's a fairly thorough inspection that takes about 2.5 hours and they uncovered all sorts of stuff wrong with the two cars I brought in... frame damage, evidence of collisions, corrosion, salt damage, fluid leaks, etc.

    If I remember correctly they charge a flat fee of $79.95 for the service.

    Good luck,
  • drejdrej Member Posts: 119
    This was the Automatic shifter to Transmission cable. Seems they "all eventually go bad". Especially in salt. I replaced the cable and all is allright. A little tricky, you have to remove the console disconnect the clip at the cable, then unbolt brackets underneath and the worse part accesing the clip and cotter at the trans link. Don't loose the bushing in the eyelet if you have one. Put it all together and it should be good for another 130K miles.
    I guess the failure is the shaft/cable had corrosion in the aluminum section where a "ball"exists, here you get corrosion and binds.
    You usually feel it getting worse before it fails! (I wonder if ther would be some way to drill/ then lub that part of the cable as they're way over $100 at the dealers...
  • tomtom Member Posts: 8

    Just bought a new 2004 Civic VP automatic, and driving about 200 miles. Found some problems and need your advices and experience:

    1. Driving at speed about 20-40, turning the wheels on left and right, feeling a little bit slip (like bubble inside, and pulse without back force)
    during turning and minor vibration without noise, and it is not happened at higher speed,

    2. Stop the car, and turning the wheel. Feeling small force pull back (this may normal), and the slip again.

    It is appreciated if someone who can give me some idea on this problem. Thanks for your help.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    1. Driving at speed about 20-40, turning the wheels on left and right, feeling a little bit slip (like bubble inside, and pulse without back force)
    during turning and minor vibration without noise, and it is not happened at higher speed

    If you are doing the full left to right lock at 40 mph, they "bubble inside and pulse" you feel is form the blood not reaching the intended destinations from the exceeding G forces. lol You must have some sticky tires on the car not to go into a full fish tail.

    Good luck.
  • yaobyaob Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Civic EX. When driving on highways or driving over a bump, the right side of the car would give out a metalic grinding noise. It would go away only if I brake hard(lightly tapping the brake would not work). If the car slows down, the noise persists but its frequency decreases.

    The car has about 30000 miles on it and its brake pad could be worn out. Is this a brake pad problem or is it something more serious than that?

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Sounds like the brake wear sensors are warning you that front brake pads are low. Although, it is kind of low mileage to have brakes wear out, if you bought the car used, chances are that 30,000 is not the true mileage. On average, stock Honda brake pads wear to 60,000 miles, but if you, or previous owner did some extreme driving or was a two footed driver (if you have auto tranny) that would explain the early brake wear.
  • yaobyaob Member Posts: 5
    Yep. It turns out that the brake pads need to be replaced. My commute route used to be very short and a rather entertaining drive (it is an automatic), hence the short life of the brake pads. Thanks!

    BTW, I just had them replaced at Honda of Princeton. I was very impressed with their service.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    What was the mileage between brake pad changes?
  • jlm1955jlm1955 Member Posts: 9
    I went to close the deal on a new 2004 Civic/LX. It was discovered it had a scratch on the left rear bumper. First they said, go ahead an take the car and bring it back and we will fix it. I did not like this idea. I wanted it fixed before I accepted the car. Also, I thought I also deserved some compensation. They said the price was already too low. I said the price was not relevant, I did not buy a scratch/dent car. Finally, they agreed to fix it and give me a year's of maint (about $100). They then called me the next day saying they would replace the bumper but there would be no compensation. Overall, I am not too happy with the situation. I do not like their "it does not matter", you are getting a great price attitude.

    Please comment? Am I being unreasonable? Should I take the new bumper or get the current one repaired?

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,335
    Really shouldn't matter.

    When we sell a car really cheap, we will usually tell the customer..." Now, look the car over carefully because for this price, if there is a small scratch or blemish, we aren't going to fix it"

    And, no, I don't think you deserve any "compensation" providing they repair the car properly. Things happen.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Our new Accord has a "repaired" spot that only I can see. I let it slide when I bought the car but now it really erks me. I'll take the compensation thank you. Too bad it was the last burgundy 5 speed EX-L on the lot. Heck probably in the southeast. I hear they make very few of that combination.

    I understand "things happen". As long as they happen to the other guys car.
  • dgreeneydgreeney Member Posts: 3
    Should a honda civic, 2000 or 2001 have a transmission problem at 60,000 miles.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    As with any machine.
  • jlm1955jlm1955 Member Posts: 9
    The car was sold as NEW, no caveats. The fact that a dealer thinks you got a good deal does not give them the right to sale defective goods.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,335
    But it sounds like they have agreed to replace the bumber cover and that should make it the same as new. Not like they are painting metal parts or anything.

    You asked the question and I gave you my opinion.

    You could have simply refused delivery too.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    If you are unhappy with the vehicle, do not accept the car! ---- In 1995, my wife and I leased a new Jeep Grand Cherokee. It was loaded with every option. When the day arrived to sign the lease papers, we received a phone call from the F & I person saying that the vehicle would not be delivered on that day, because the service department was too busy to prep the vehicle. They re-scheduled the delivery for the following day. As I put down the phone, a little voice inside of me said, cancel the deal, (let the dealer take me to court). Since I did not have any money down on the deal, it was an easy thing to do! I did not listen to that little voice, and the mechanical quality of the vehicle was very bad. It lived at the dealership, (drive train problems, brake problems and electrical problems). For 30 months, I remembered that phone call. If I had to do this all over again, I would have cancelled the deal. I now make it a point to go with my feelings. If I go into a dealership and I do not like the atmosphere of the operation, I walk. It is our money and we can spend it anywhere we like. A NEW car is a NEW car, and it should be delivered without damage.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Cheap NEW does not equal cheap damaged. If a dealer wants to sell a new damaged car cheap, let them sell it as a one year old car.
  • podunk503podunk503 Member Posts: 45
    i bought my 03 ex cp w/ 16 mi on it on 11/11/03. since then it has had all 6 bushings replaced on the drivers seat, a new pass door panel, a new wind regulator, and a new MASTER SLAVE CYLINDER! what's going on here?! i bought this thing because i needed to finance and i figured what better brand? btw it now has 22,000 mi. the clutch work was done at 20,700 mi. this is my 1st new car, i'm 19, does anyone have advise for me? for all those things the car has been in at least twice for each one because they had to diagnose then order the part then repair. is this normal that your second home is the honda service department after you drop thousands of $ on a car?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,335
    big difference between buying a car with a small scratch and buying a Jeep.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Read posting 3170! --- You missed the point.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Read posting 3169 again. A customer has the right to walk on a deal if they feel that the dealer is not operating in a professional manner. When my wife and I purchase a new or used vehicle, we do not put any money down prior to the closing of the deal. All funds are transferred on the day of delivery. If the dealer does not like these terms, he or she can keep their car, and we keep our money. In the past we purchased a number of late model off lease GM vehicles, (great vehicles). Our down payment was our trade in. No other money was exchanged. If the deal was not right, for any reason, we could have walked. One Ford dealer did not want to do business with us under these terms. When we did not want to put a cash deposit on a used vehicle,(in addition to our trade), the sales manager told us: ---- "You would pass up the car of your dreams, because you do not want to give us a deposit"? ----I responded "YES", and walked out of the showroom. He kept the car, and we kept our money. We didn't loose anything. We purchased an off lease GM vehicle, but the Ford dealer lost the sale. The customer is in the driver's seat during the deal, as long as they hold onto their money. "Money" is the important motivating factor. I would advise any customer to walk out of the showroom during the deal if anything does not seem to be professional. I would NEVER accept a NEW vehicle that was damaged at any price. If the vehicle is such a bargain at a given price, let the dealer sell it to his / her own family! The customer is paying the dealer with "good money", not "play money", so as such, they deserve a quality product. The price has nothing to do with the quality. If the vehicle is being sold as a NEW car, then the quality is NEW!----- QUESTION: ----Would you purchase a NEW vehicle that was sold "as is"? ----I don't think so! If it is sold "as is", there is some sort of damage on the vehicle, so it is not a NEW vehicle, (because of the damage), so as such, it then needs to be sold as used, (at a much lower price). If the car was sold as a one year old vehicle, then it might be a "good deal" depending on the damage.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    ....while I drag this dead horse over to Smart Shopper where you can discuss Inconsiderate Dealers and/or Inconsiderate Buyers.

    Only Civic problems and solutions allowed here, thankewverymuch.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I was beginning to think this thread was renamed : Beating dead horses, count the ways? :(
  • jlm1955jlm1955 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the comments/discussions.

    I did decide to "walk". It was not necessarily because of the scratch it was my perception on how they handled it.

    As fate goes, it actually worked out for the best. I was able to get the care via another dealer. The price was a little better, the color was our first choice and the car had a couple of minor options (door guards, mud guards).

    I do not understand the first dealer who lost the deal. They not only lost a sale but they lost the service on this car and my Odyssey.
  • civic04civic04 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I think I know what the solution to the Wind Noise at highway speeds is! I happened to me and I relaized that the weather stripping on my roof towards the front windshield was not sitting correctly. I simple adjusted it with my thumb and drove off without the wind noise.

    When the weather stripping doesnt sit properly, it loops back the wind at high speed causing a whistling sound. Hope that helps!
  • ibrahimibrahim Member Posts: 1
    I am getting the same noise in my honda 2002 civic (25,000 miles) when accelerating at about 35mile to 50 miles.

    Did you manage to fix that problem in your car.

    Your replay is appreciated.

  • mautomauto Member Posts: 75
    I have a light out in the headlight cluster, I guess it is called a "parking light" on my 02 Civic. This bulb seems to be purely decorative and a bit larger than a tic tac breath mint. Has anyone ever replaced this bulb? Talk about a major undertaking. I think the only way to get to it is to remove the headlight assembly, which means removing the front bumper, which means forget it! You can imagine I had some choice words for the designer. Yep, 2 hours labor to change a 99 cent bulb. Since these bulbs put out all of the illumination intensity of a household night light, this is one bulb that's just gonna have to stay burned out.
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    You can get to it by removing the splash guard in the wheel well by removing those little push screws they have holding it in. Also so the wheel is out of the way, turn it one way or the other to give you more room. I think there is a general way of going about doing this outlined in your owner's manual. Take a look at that too! They have some very valuable information in there and is not meant as a decoration to your glovebox all the time. Good luck.
  • yleecoyoteyleecoyote Member Posts: 32
    I share your opinion on the utility of the light vs. the time it takes to change it. Looks neat, but doesn't appear to have much function. Both of mine have been out for over a year now and I don't have any plans to replace them.
    I knew the method of going through the wheel well, but figured a few of the plastic holders would also be broken in the process.
  • mschlockmschlock Member Posts: 3
    Just bought a 2004 Civic EX on Saturday. I've noticed that the air conditioning doesn't blow cold air -- at all. I think I read that the 2004 might have less cooling power than my 1999 did (did they switch away from Freon?), but it literally seems to be blowing warm air even when it's set to a/c, and it stays that way even when I leave it on for 5-10 minutes.

    I figure there would be a lot more complaints on the Internet about this if this was "as designed," but thought I would check -- does your 2004 Civic indeed blow actually cold air when set to a/c? You can hold your hand up to it and it feels cold, right?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,335
    That it just might be YOUR 2004 Civic that's having an isolated problem?

    The A/C in my 2004 Civic is just fine.
  • mschlockmschlock Member Posts: 3
    Yep, I'm thinking it's that mine has issues. Time to call the dealer!

  • mautomauto Member Posts: 75
    My 97 Civic HX with dealer installed A/C was not of the freon type, but blew frigid air, contrary to the popular belief that dealer installation was somehow inferior to factory installation.

    Now I have an 02 EX and I must say the A/C is mediocre at best. The air does indeed feel less cold than it used to. Part of the blame lies with the feeble blower unit that even on its highest setting is only putting out the same volume of air as on other car's 2nd or 3rd (out of 4) fan setting. The variable fan control actually isn't continuously variable but has 9 settings. 1-5 seem to but out barely a breath of air and it's not until about 6 or 7 do you feel the flow. Pathetic. I've driven a CR-V (02) and its fan speed seems like a hurricane by comparison - a much better unit. Shame they didn't put that one in the Civic.

    Then the penalty for using this mediocre system is lethargic acceleration. Activating the A/C is like driving with the handbrake on - painfully slow. Revving the engine makes a hell of a racket and does nothing to aid acceleration - I thought they had more soundproofing in these cars?
  • mschlockmschlock Member Posts: 3
    Took it into the shop this morning and they found the problem. There was an o-ring misaligned or missing and it let all the gas out. Better that than an electrical problem, is my thought.

    As far as the fan force, although it wasn't blowing cold air at the time, when I was fiddling with it it felt about as forceful as my '99, which I was perfectly happy with.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a light out in the headlight cluster, I guess it is called a "parking light" on my 02 Civic. This bulb seems to be purely decorative and a bit larger than a tic tac breath mint. Has anyone ever replaced this bulb? Talk about a major undertaking. I think the only way to get to it is to remove the headlight assembly, which means removing the front bumper, which means forget it! You can imagine I had some choice words for the designer. Yep, 2 hours labor to change a 99 cent bulb. Since these bulbs put out all of the illumination intensity of a household night light, this is one bulb that's just gonna have to stay burned out.

    Read the OWNER'S MANUAL and save your self $99. Then go to AuoZone and buy LED replacement bulbs that are guaranteed to not to burn out for 7 years of continuous use. With the normal, intermittent use you are looking at a lifetime of not replacing the bulbs.
  • wade1wade1 Member Posts: 1
    Is there an answer to the problem of the speedometer stopping and starting as described in question 3039?
    I have a 1994 honda civic and am experiencing the same problem.
    Please advise
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    An intermittent speedo is usually a defective vehicle speed sensor or it's associated wiring.
  • paseosherrypaseosherry Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know how to fix a starting problem after a short trip? If I start my 92 Civic with automatic trans, take a short trip, turn off the car for a few hours and try to turn on my car, then the car won’t start. For example, I started my Civic in the morning, drove to work, but my car would not start on my lunch break. My Civic, with 149,000 miles, starts in the morning when the engine is cold. Why do short trips make a difference?
  • 00civic00civic Member Posts: 1
    I just recently got my front brake pad replaced and the rotors machined and a front end alignment on my 00 civic lx, it was fine for a couple of months, now it's back to pulling sharply to the right and bouncing if I stop quickly, is there something I over looked?
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