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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    I'd be concerned about this behavior, irrespective of whether it's a design "feature," or not.

     

    If I understand you correctly, this system will permit you to open your doors, set something inside the car, _including your keys_(!), then close the door to do something else momentarily -- and the system will LOCK YOU OUT! Now, with the keys inside the locked car, you're going to be unhappy.

     

    Either way, it's defective, in my opinion.

     

    A well-designed system will not permit the driver to accidentally lock himself out. My '02 Civic Si protects me from such errors, while my '02 Mazda P5, alas, does not, since it allows one to depress the interior lock "button" on the door windowsill, or activate the locks with the remote with the hatch lid open, and then when I close the hatch (with my keys inside the trunk). . . I'm going to be unhappy. :-(
  • kauai215...thaks for the info...I agree with you. I think it is a defect. In my 4 1/2 years of owning this car I have never experienced that except for this winter. Thanks. I checked my manual as well and there is no mention of this. I will go back to the dealer as well.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    If your door switches are not working in the cold, the alarm doesn't know you opened the door and got in. In that case, all newer Hondas have a delay that locks the doors after a certain amount of time. Sounds like you may have moisture in a door switch.
  • gogiboygogiboy Posts: 732
    I'm hoping some other Civic owners may be able to comment on my suspension woes.

     

    I have my 1994 Civic EX (113K) at a local mechanic because of persistent noise coming from both the front and back suspension--the typical squeaks and creaks that make it sound like the springs need lubrication. His recommendation: replace all 36 bushings to the tune of $1300 parts and labor. Needless to say my jaw dropped although I can hardly complain about the Civic as this is the first major expense in 11 years of ownership.

     

    I'm wondering if this is typical and whether the price seems reasonable? I bought the car new and never have abused it and I don't live on or off of dirt roads.

     

    He's also recommending a timing belt/water pump and seals due to significant oil leakage. I had the timing belt replaced at around 60K by the Honda dealer, but the $250 job never covered the water pump or seals. This mechanic has a good local reputation, which is more than I can say for the Honda dealership. His price for the timing belt/water pump seals and labor is $500.

     

    Thanks for any advice or tips.
  • I thought of that too. I have seen this problem occur when the dome light comes or when it does not come on upon unlocking and opening the door.
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    This is an interesting puzzle.

     

    The door switch notion appeals to me; I'd go down that path for a ways before setting it aside.

     

    Have you tried each door, one at a time, independently of the others, to see if you can replicate the problem? I assume you've seen the problem repeat itself with the driver's door. How about if you leave the driver's door closed, and just open and close the passenger door(s)? Do you get the same results each time?

     

    If not, then "something" relating to the "different" door, the "offending" door, is related to the problem. Since it's almost certainly electrical in nature, I like that door switch suggestion.

     

    Is it possible that the door switch moves just enough to activate the dome light, but not the contact connected to the alarm and locking system?

     

     
    You say that your dealer claims this to be normal. Hmm... I'm not surprised. My guess is that this may be one of those problems you'll need to solve yourself, then have the incompetents at the dealership replace the offending parts after you educate them. Every serious or just difficult diagnosis on a car I've ever had... I had to solve myself. Service Writers are imbecilic losers, that's why they're not mechanics, and the way they are paid encourages them to abuse you one way or another. They're aren't likely to make much money from you for this problem, and it "pays" them to hustle you out of there with reassurances that "they all do that."

     

    If you (we?) cannot pin this down, you might consider this strategy: Take your car to the dealership and park it in a way that most obstructs the morning clients coming into the service area. Be sure to secure the handbrake firmly, and put the car in gear.

     

    Now... bring the moron over who said this is normal behavior and talk to him about the problem while you leave your keys (inadvertently) in the car and close the door. When the system locks the car...

     

    Pretend you don't have a spare key, or can't find it.

     

    Now, the moron will begin to understand the problem. It's now HIS problem as your car is blocking the service area and is going to be a pain to remove.

     

    Make your problem HIS PROBLEM, and I'll bet he/she becomes more interested in seeking a solution! ;-)

     

    Would you do me a favor, please? Write back and let us know the solution. I'd appreciate it. :-)

     

     
    -Kauai (who's feeling the devil in himself this evening. ;-)
  • Thanks for your suggestion. I was able to replicate the problem in front of the service advisor. He saw the door relock and alarm reactivate after I closed the door, but still he said it was normal. I will talk to the service manager. He is a good guy and I believe very competent. Thanks agin for the info and suggestions. I will try them out.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I have a 2000 Honda Civic LX sedan with a Honda security system. When the weather is cold and the car is locked and alarm activated if I unlock the door and get into the car and close it again, the doors will lock and alarm will activate in a minute or so if I do not put the key into the ignition. Is this normal? My dealer says so , but I never noticed it before.

     

    If you have OEM Honda alarm unit (your remotes are Honda branded remotes) there is a switch inside to go from "Passive" to "Active" system. In "passive" mode the alarm should re-arm automatically, in "active" mode the alarm will not arm untill you click the remote. The insurance companies only give you discount on "passive" systems, as it eliminates human factor.

     

    It is possible that the door switch is faulty, but it is also possible that the switch inside the alarm unit got switched to "active" either from a very hard bump, or the "brains" in the unit got messed up.

     

    OEM unit in the 2000 EX goies under the dash by the steering column entering the firewall.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I'm hoping some other Civic owners may be able to comment on my suspension woes.

      

    I have my 1994 Civic EX (113K) at a local mechanic because of persistent noise coming from both the front and back suspension--the typical squeaks and creaks that make it sound like the springs need lubrication. His recommendation: replace all 36 bushings to the tune of $1300 parts and labor. Needless to say my jaw dropped although I can hardly complain about the Civic as this is the first major expense in 11 years of ownership.

      

    I'm wondering if this is typical and whether the price seems reasonable? I bought the car new and never have abused it and I don't live on or off of dirt roads.

      

    He's also recommending a timing belt/water pump and seals due to significant oil leakage. I had the timing belt replaced at around 60K by the Honda dealer, but the $250 job never covered the water pump or seals. This mechanic has a good local reputation, which is more than I can say for the Honda dealership. His price for the timing belt/water pump seals and labor is $500.

      

    Thanks for any advice or tips.


     

    Timing belt is due at 120K on your car, we well as the water pump. $500 is about what dealer charges. The parts will cost you $100, everything else is labor.

     

    36 bushings for $1300 is kind of pricey, but OEM parts are not cheap. Look into urethane aftermarket bushings from a reputable supplier. Labor is still going to be a major part of the bill.
  • gogiboygogiboy Posts: 732
    Dear blueiedgod--

     

    Thanks for the reply. I read a lot of your posts and have a great deal of respect for your knowledge about Civics. You have definitely reassured me and I hope to eventually squeeze out 200K or more miles on my Civic.

     

    Gogiboy
  • Thanks blueiedgod for your ideas. I e-mailed the service manager about the symptoms and he is basically saying the same thing you are. I am supposed to bring my car in the get my cruise control actuator replaced and they will switch from the passive to active mode. Thank you!
  • jlim1jlim1 Posts: 50
    Hello,

     

    Has anyone tried the high performance headlight bulbs on the Civic (white light)? Is it acceptable/safe to switch from regular halogen to this? Please advise.

     

    Thanx.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Actually. on a 1994 the timing belt change interval is 90,000 miles. If you are going in there anyway to change the seals I would replace the belt at any mileage. If may have oil on it which will cause it to fail.
  • I ran the Silvanias in my 94, worked great, and no one ever flashed me as if I had my hibeams on accidently. Made night driving much easier.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    just inherited an '87 CRX, 140K, running well but hardly driven the last three years or so. It is too bad - seems there are no dedicated CRX threads here at Edmunds. Was just wondering if anyone knew a good source (maybe internet or something?) for OEM body parts - this car has a nosepiece and front fenders that appear to be made out of something like fiberglass, all are cracked, the nosepiece itself has a big ugly chunk missing. Seems worth replacing because the rest of the car is in such good shape - all the metal panels are undamaged, and since the car spent most of its life garaged, even the paint is in excellent shape.

     

    This car is so great - I love crank windows and manual steering! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • gogiboygogiboy Posts: 732
    isell--

     

    Thanks for the update. That's why it is so disappointing to have to replace it at 113K--even though it was replaced early at 65K.

     

    I've washed my hands of the local Honda dealer after they tried to sell us an $1100 catalytic converter despite the fact that I told the service manager that I'd run over a log the night before. Took it to a local muffler chain and their tech diagnosed it as a bent heat shield that needed to be tack welded. Price $10!

     

    So it doesn't surprise me that my previous timing belt replacement didn't cover the water pump and seals. The current mechanic said exactly what you said, which is that it was almost certainly leaking oil onto the timing belt.

     

    This local dealership is nothing like the one you work for isell. When we bought the Civic in 94 is was a friendly, family run place that was low-pressure and only sold Hondas. After changing hands a couple of times it has become one of those screamer ad places that sells and services Hondas and Chrysler stuff out of the same building/lot. They seem more interested in moving used vehicles of uncertain provenance that are towed in for weekend quick-sales Quite disappointing, really. The bent heat shield was actually the third and final straw--although I guess I'm still paying for their ineptitude on the timing belt.

     

    Doesn't change my feeling about high quality of the Honda brand. My wife and I also love our Toyotas.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    maybe this as one possibility might work for you:

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    thanks a lot! That place has everything in stock I need.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Thank you.

     

    (brought a tear to my eye)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Thank you

     

    (see above)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Hello,

      

    Has anyone tried the high performance headlight bulbs on the Civic (white light)? Is it acceptable/safe to switch from regular halogen to this? Please advise.

      

    Thanx.


     

    I run MTEC's on the Civic. Those are rated at 160/170 watt, with only 90 watt draw. This puts it very close the the rated amperage on the head light circuit, but just bellow it so not to blow the fuses and fry the wiring.

     

    I have tried Sylvania Silverstar, they are good, but not as good as MTEC. MTEC is the closest you can get to HID without the HID conversion. They don't have that annoying puple/blue look to them, just white, very white light. MTEC's come with lifetime warranty and I have used it a few times. They usually last a year, and I put in the Silverstars while the warranty is being processed (you have to send the old ones back with a $4 check, to get the new ones)
  • hi,

    I bought 40mm lowering springs for my 95 civic coupe. just wondering weather it will be a stright forward enough job to do myself or weather there will be complications while fitting them.I have fitted springs on vw's before but ive heard that the honda suspension can be quite tricky. Anyone??
  • Blueiedgod,

     

    What's the model # or specs for the MTECs you have on your civic? Also, do you know where I could get them cheap? Thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Blueiedgod,

      

    What's the model # or specs for the MTECs you have on your civic? Also, do you know where I could get them cheap? Thanks.


     

    It all depends if you have high/low in one or separate high and low beams. If memory serves me right, Civic never had separate high and low, they have always been in one bulb. So you should look for 9003 replacement. Check out ebay for MTEC.
  • Hello!

     

    Okay, I'm a girl so I don't know that much about cars, but enough to get me through a semi-educated conversation.

     

    My car is doing this weird thing when it idles. It kind of makes this noise * puh *puh at the exhaust. it sounds HORRIBLE! I am thinking that it might be a sensor or my fuel injection or something. It drives fine when I'm on the gas, its just when I go in on the clutch. or I am at a stop.

     

    I appreciate any help you might be able to give me, clues or anything.

     

    here are the Stats:

    2000 Honda Civic Ex

    87,000 miles

    reg. maint. done (oil, filter, etc.)

    some after market: air filter, cold-air intake.

    standard (no other way to go)

     

    I'm trying to get away from a 70.00 diagnostic fee from the honda dealer in town, so any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!
  • HELP! i need to remove a radio from a 1994 honda civic immediately. do i need to pop the dash off? i've tried everything else and nothing is working. please, i need to do this before my car is towed.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Stereo Radio

    Honda Civic/CRX/del Sol 1984-1995 Repair Guide

     
    1992-95 Models

    The original equipment radio has a coded theft protection circuit. Before beginning removal, be sure to know the code for re-installation. The code is erased whenever the battery is disconnected or the No. 32 (7.5A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box is removed. When power is re-connected, the word "CODE" will be displayed and will require entry of the 5-digit code for that particular unit.

        

      WARNING

      

    All SRS wire harnesses are covered with a yellow insulation.

     

    Remove the center instrument panel by removing the four philips screws on the top and sides.

    Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the cigarette lighter.

    Remove the two screws, then disconnect the 16-pin connector and the antenna lead.

    Carefully pull the radio/cassette player out.

     

    To Install:

     

    Plug in the 16 pin connector and install the two retaining screws.

    Plug in the antenna lead, the cigarette lighter and carefully install the unit.

    Install the center instrument panel. Re-connect power to the car, and enter the 5-digit theft protection code for the radio/cassette player.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    a "puh puh" huh? ;)

     

    maybe there's a hole in the muffler? can you look under the vehicle and determine if there are any holes in the piping, cat convertor or muffler?
  • My 1998 and my daughter's 1999 Civics developed an engine whine that sounds like a whisper jet taking off. I just had my timing belt and water pump replaced and that did not solve the whine/squeel problem. It is not the sound of a slipping belt, and not the typical sound of bad bearings. Sounds like it is coming from the engine. It can happen accelerating/decellerating/putting clutch in/not putting clutch in...it can happen anytime. On very cold days, it continues for 45 minutes til I arrive at work. On cold days, it goes away once the engine is totally warm. On warm days, it does not occur. By the way, this car has had regular oil changes and scheduled maintenance.

     

    Anyone have similar problem? Anyone know or want to speculate the cause?

     

    Thanks,

    Dan Diviney
  • john500john500 Posts: 409
    The first things I would do are:

    Step 1. If you are in a cold climate, put in a bottle of "dry gas" to rule out water in the fuel line.

     

    Step 2. Although you correlate the sound with the clutch, I think you can safely rule that out. When the cluch goes, there is normally a high-pitched ring (throw-out bearing typically) instead of a puh-puh sound.

     

    Step 3. Check your fuel filter for restrictions since the problem goes away at full throttle and lingers at idle(although you indicate that regular maintenance has been done and I assume that means the fuel filter also).

     

    Step 4. Too technical for me.
  • I do know a little about mufflers... so no. I can differintiate between the sounds. I have an after-market exshaust system and I have had it re-done a few times because of problems. THIS however is something else.

     

    Thanks for your help, I appreciate anything people are willing to help me with.

     

    Oh yea... the puh puh is kind of like a mini-backfire to maybe make the sound a little more understandable...lol.. what can I say I'm not a car, I can't make car sounds.. lol. thanks.
  • hey thanks for the help! I will give the list to my boyfriend ;)

    Let him figure it out. lol...

    I think it might be a sensor or something, but the check engine light isn't coming on so I'm not sure...

     

    And the only thing about the clutch is just when I push it in to take the car out of gear, I agree with you, it has nothing to do with the clutch.

     

    Thanks again!
  • khaokhao Posts: 1
    i just put a b18c motor into my civic dx '00. i keep getting a check engine light. when i dianostic it, it throw a tps code... i changed the whole throttle body and checked the wiring still having problems. sometimes when driving the car feels like its idle but im in gear and when i gas it doesn't accelerate until i press the pedal almost half way! after that happens it throws check engine light. does any body have an idea whats goin on?
  • I have an '02 Honda Civic LX. Recently, the turn signals stopped working. The fourways worked, though. I pulled the fuse for the turn signals and it was blown, so I replaced it. It blew that one as well, but I tried once more. The turn signals worked for a couple of days, but then the fuse blew again. All 4 bulbs work fine. What could be causing this?

     

    Please email me at [email protected] if you have any ideas. Thanks.
  • hello can anyone out there tell me how much does a clutch replacement cost including tax&labor thanks
  • [non-permissible content removed] man here again sorry forgot to mention its a 95 civic Lx
  • I am having the same issue as alanhj. They dim while I am cruising. It does not happend when I hit a bump or if the car suddenly moves or jolts. It happends sporatically, totally unexpected.
  • I was quoted $389.00 out the door to replace my clutch in my old 89 Accord Lxi from an independent mechanic. I'm not sure exactly how much they cost today, I'm guessing more since this was close to 4 years ago. Your best bet if you want to save some money is to go to a reputable independent mechanic in your area, preferably someone who specializes in foreign cars, as they will probably be able to get the job done faster hence saving you $$$..good luck
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Hello!

      

    Okay, I'm a girl so I don't know that much about cars, but enough to get me through a semi-educated conversation.

      

    My car is doing this weird thing when it idles. It kind of makes this noise * puh *puh at the exhaust. it sounds HORRIBLE! I am thinking that it might be a sensor or my fuel injection or something. It drives fine when I'm on the gas, its just when I go in on the clutch. or I am at a stop.

      

    I appreciate any help you might be able to give me, clues or anything.

      

    here are the Stats:

    2000 Honda Civic Ex

    87,000 miles

    reg. maint. done (oil, filter, etc.)

    some after market: air filter, cold-air intake.

    standard (no other way to go)

      

    I'm trying to get away from a 70.00 diagnostic fee from the honda dealer in town, so any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!


     

    If you say that the sound is like the engine is back firing, then you have few possible causes:

    0) Throw out bearing is shot

    1) Fuel misture is too rich.

    2) Cat is shot

    3) Aftermarket exhaust is too free flowing, not enough back pressure.

    4) Ignition is out of whack.

    5) Timing belt is stretched.

    6) Burnt valve or valve seat.

    7) Idle control valve is messed up.

    8) Crappy fuel.

    9) Crappy oil.

    10) CAI let the engine "inhale" water.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    My 1998 and my daughter's 1999 Civics developed an engine whine that sounds like a whisper jet taking off. I just had my timing belt and water pump replaced and that did not solve the whine/squeel problem. It is not the sound of a slipping belt, and not the typical sound of bad bearings. Sounds like it is coming from the engine. It can happen accelerating/decellerating/putting clutch in/not putting clutch in...it can happen anytime. On very cold days, it continues for 45 minutes til I arrive at work. On cold days, it goes away once the engine is totally warm. On warm days, it does not occur. By the way, this car has had regular oil changes and scheduled maintenance.

      

    Anyone have similar problem? Anyone know or want to speculate the cause?

      

    Thanks,

    Dan Diviney


     

    Is the whine coming in from the speakers? Alternator may be at fault.

     

    If not, check the grade of oil the mechanics put in last time. It may be too thick for the cold weather.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I have an '02 Honda Civic LX. Recently, the turn signals stopped working. The fourways worked, though. I pulled the fuse for the turn signals and it was blown, so I replaced it. It blew that one as well, but I tried once more. The turn signals worked for a couple of days, but then the fuse blew again. All 4 bulbs work fine. What could be causing this?

      

    Please email me at [email protected] if you have any ideas. Thanks.


     

    Are you using the correct sized fuse for the circuit? On the fuse door it should state what amperage fuse should be used. 02 should be under warranty, if so, make it dealer's problem. Electrical problems can take 5 minutes or 5 days to diagnose. Sounds like you may have an intermittednt short in the flasher relay or the wires leading to the lights. One fo the lights may have water in it.
  • john500john500 Posts: 409
    If it isn't as simple as disconnecting the negative battery terminal, it sounds like you might need to reprogram your car's computer system to match the swapped engine specs. I am not familiar at all with engine swaps so I couldn't answer anything in detail about the throttle body sensor. The source of most of my problems on a 2000 Saturn S-series with the "check engine" light was with sensors on the intake and exhaust.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    Does anyone know if the engine used in the 2000 LX, 1.6L SOHC, is an interference design. This means that if the timing belt breaks the pistons could hit the valves thus causing bent valves. The engine has 98000 miles and may need a timing belt replacement soon. Has anyone replaced the belt at a Honda dealer and hpw much did it cost?
  • Run quickly to the shop and get that belt changed!!! Do it tomorrow, or Thurs, this is an emergency situation!!!
  • That is one thing you don't want to push back a few thousand miles.

     

    I had one go, @ same miles, 2 weeks after buying car from inlaws. Fortunatly I was all but stopped at a stop sign. Car died, like I shut it off. Mechs had the head off, no damage, cost was @300. for new belt and labor.

     

    A neighbor lost his at 45 mph, and his cheapest option was $1500. This was nearly 7 years ago, so adjust for inflation.

     

    Yes, is interference design. A rebuild could cost 2K these days. And that is just for a head and assembly. Nevermind if you need to replace any of the slugs. Lots of labor costs here.

     

    This should be enough to clue you into the necessity of changing the belt as recommended.

     

    Hope you get r done, in time, best wishes to you.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    The sky isn't going to fall.

     

    That 1998 Civic's timing belt has a reccommended change interval of 105,000 miles. It's in your owner's manual.

     

    Highly unlikely it's going to break soon.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    Also keep in mind, that is the statistical mode median, mean. There is a safety factor built in, but it has never to my knowledge been published.
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    mike372 wrote:

    “Has anyone replaced the belt at a Honda dealer and how much did it cost?”

     

    I believe that it _is_ an interference design.

     

    If you have it done at a Honda dealership, I’d guess the cost would run around $500, or more. Call around, though, because you may find a better deal at one shop than the others. Private shops probably offer lower prices than Honda dealers.

     

    My greatest concern would be to find the right mechanic, one I could trust to do the job competently and responsibly, rather than selling me the slipshod, half-a**ed, incompetent and indifferent “workmanship” one sees all too often these days. I’d be much more concerned about the mechanic than about the price.

     

    I’d consider replacing the water pump at this time, too. It’s cheap to do now when all the bits and pieces are removed and access is easy. A new water pump is a wise investment at this mileage if one plans to keep the car for some time. (I’d wonder about the competence of the shop that didn’t offer this option.)

     

    isellhondas wrote:

    “The sky isn't going to fall.”

     

    Not yet, it isn’t. However, if the timing belt breaks, the sky WILL fall! The owner will be unhappy. ;-)

     

    For the general readers in this forum: It’s unwise to tempt fate by postponing maintenance on an item like the timing belt where the consequences of failure are catastrophic in almost all cases. There are a number of maintenance items one can neglect without incurring major problems. The cam timing belt is most emphatically NOT one of those items!

     

    If this were my car, and I intended to sell it right around the maintenance interval at, say, 105K miles, then I would not have the work done, but would make a BIG point of the necessity of performing this maintenance immediately to whomever I sold the car. In fact, I’d put it in writing and have the buyer sign it.

     

    If I were planning to keep the car, I’d do this maintenance on schedule, without delay. To do otherwise is to risk everything with the possibility of winning _nothing_. That makes no sense. (I realize there may be a handful of owners who lack the resources to get this job done in a timely manner, and to them I would say: Make this expense a priority just below food and shelter, because otherwise you may find yourself without a car at all. It really is that important, so don’t dismiss this maintenance lightly, folks.)
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    ruking1 wrote:

    “Also keep in mind, that is the statistical mode median, mean.”

     

    If you mean by “that,” the 105,000 mile replacement interval for the cam timing belt, I wonder if this is true. I’m not saying it isn’t, since I don’t know.

     

    But I would doubt that 105,000 miles is the mean time between failure (MTBF). Presumably the frequency distribution of failure is a standard distribution, and this would assume a bell curve distribution.

     

    If the replacement interval were set to the mode/median/mean, which you say would be 105K miles, then fully HALF OF ALL BELTS would break BEFORE that point! Uh-oh... ;-)

     

    I’m thinking that the 105K miles point is way down on the left-hand tail of the bell curve. At this point _very_ few belts would fail before this -- it would be statistically improbable, although still "possible" -- and the _vast_ majority of belts would last longer.

     

    This is not supposed to be a gamble, after all. We want to set the replacement interval at a point which virtually guarantees no owner is going to experience that “falling sky” problem. ;-)

     

    I’d think that would be the way Honda would want to do this, don’t you?

     

    I could be confused, though. It wouldn’t be the first time. ;-)

     

    Correct me if I’m wrong, please.

     

    -Kauai (who encourages everyone to refrain from gambling on _this_ maintenance item.)
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    No, I think you grasped the concept I was trying to get across. As I said, the MTBF has never been published. Nor has it been discussed anywhere at the consumer/DIY level. Also, if I had to guess, I am guessing there is a min safety factor of 2x or so built in. or 210-250k MTBF So as you said, if you apply the SD's... So there is some wiggle room at the 105k mile interval. Am I saying or recommending 210-250k mile intervals? NO!!! :):(

     

    This is might be off topic, but I watch a small population of VW Jetta/Beetle TDI's (10) having timing belts changed over a weekend. Later during the year I also watch 6 more being changed. (total of 16)(VW's have between 60-100k TB change intervals, redesigned belts are at a min of 80k (automatic) to the manual of 100k) The most amazing thing was comparing a brand new timing belt to the old ones. Someone inadvertently mixed in his new timing belt with a batch of old ones and believe it or not even the steely eyed ace tech had to make double sure he was using the BRAND new one. It was very difficult to pick out. I often think the real value here is that at 105k the thing is torn apart and inspected. The Honda and the VW TDI have some other "suicide" design features, so it is a good interval to inspect and take corrective action/s if the suicide features seem ready to do their deed. So that I am not vague, TB rubbing (causing damage to components or itself abrading), belt stretch,belt damage, tensioner, tensioner spring, water pump leaking, oil leaks from 2-3 seals, damage to gear teeth, oil/grease anti freeze etc. coating belt; to name a few.
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