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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • Check fuel pump pressure and volume. You might want to put this engine on a computer, to see the condition of the ignition system.
  • Thanks...they had it on a computer today. No codes unfortunately. They said fuel pressure was fine, but were unable to test it while driving.
  • Does your vehicle have a flexible hose for the air intake system? If it does, look for holes, (openings), in the hose. All the incoming air must be accounted for by the computer. The engine rocking on the motor mounts could be opening the air hose, especially if it is pleated type, and in the process, allowing additional un-measure air into the engine thus giving the engine a lean mixture. By placing the trans in neutral, you take the load off the engine, and the openings in the hose close, so the engine recovers. Check all the intake hose connections. Make sure everything is clean and tight. Question: ---- Is this issue temperature sensitive? Does the problem occur when the engine is at normal operating temperature, or does it only occur when the engine is cold? If it is temperature sensitive, make sure that the connections are clean and tight to the temperature sensor on the engine. The computer needs to know the temperature of the engine to set the proper air fuel mixture. Just a thought! ----Greg
  • Ok my cd player out of my 95 honda civic ex got stolen and untill i can get a new one i have to use the factory tape deck. It has been working just fine till yesterday. I have a tape addapter for my cd player, when i put the tape in it just flips it over and over. Like if i was to have a normal tape in and it was to get to the end of one side and flip it over. I have tryed cleaning it, reseting it and getting a new adapter. Nothing is working THE RADIO IS DRIVING ME NUTS!! I need help i know nothing about tape decks and have no clue what to do to fix it??? Any ideas anyone??????
  • Hi, I just bought a 90 civic wagon awd 80K miles
    and it came with NO drivers manual-
    I could use a little explanation in regard the the gear shifter(automatic transmission)-
    Under the D (drive indicator) in my instrument panel- the S3 has a little green blinking square around it....what is it and why is it blinking?
    What does the 'S' stand for-
    AND while I'm at it, what is the Low Hold System and Shift Lock Release down on the consul-
    Any info would be ever so appreciated!!! Thanks :)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX which I love I might add. The problem is, lately I will for instance drive my car to the post office with no problem. When I get back in the car and try to start it, it won't start like it is flooded or something. After I put my foot on the gas for a long time it eventually starts.It is continually doing this. If i let it sit overnight it starts just fine but when I turn it off and try to start it again, it won't start. Any suggestions on what I need to do to fix this?

    99 EX is fuel injected VTEC engine, pressing the gas should not make a difference, unless it is not getting anough air. PRessing gas on FI car only opens the trottle plate, it does not inject more fuel in the combustion chamber.

    Does the car crank when you try to start it? Is it just canking over without catching? How is the fuel pressure? Spark? Filters? How many miles and when was the last service perfomed (what was done compre to what the manual says to do)?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I've got a 1990 Civic DX, with an automatic. It has about 110,000 miles on it. Lately it has been losing power when I go to merge into traffic or leave from a stop sign. Sometimes I can recover it if I put it into neutral and feather the gas pedal, other times it stalls. Sometimes it restarts quickly, other times it does not. The repair shop doesn't have any ideas...any owners who do?

    Carb? Plugs? Fuel filter? Air Filter? PCV? Dirty oil?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Ok my cd player out of my 95 honda civic ex got stolen and untill i can get a new one i have to use the factory tape deck. It has been working just fine till yesterday. I have a tape addapter for my cd player, when i put the tape in it just flips it over and over. Like if i was to have a normal tape in and it was to get to the end of one side and flip it over. I have tryed cleaning it, reseting it and getting a new adapter. Nothing is working THE RADIO IS DRIVING ME NUTS!! I need help i know nothing about tape decks and have no clue what to do to fix it??? Any ideas anyone??????

    You nedd a tape adaptor that has gears in it. Some cassette decks, not just in cars, sense the end of tape by the lack of movement in the source reel, while others sense the lack of movement in the receiving reel, and the third kind uses a pin that pushes on the tape before it gets to the reader head. Whe tape ends, either the source or receiving reels stop moving, or the tape's tension pushes the pin up to stop the play function.

    Try plaing a tape in the cassette deck and se if it still flips it. BTW, for the cost of two cassette adaptors you can get a cheapo CD player at Best buy or Circuit city.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Hi, I just bought a 90 civic wagon awd 80K miles
    and it came with NO drivers manual-
    I could use a little explanation in regard the the gear shifter(automatic transmission)-
    Under the D (drive indicator) in my instrument panel- the S3 has a little green blinking square around it....what is it and why is it blinking?
    What does the 'S' stand for-
    AND while I'm at it, what is the Low Hold System and Shift Lock Release down on the consul-
    Any info would be ever so appreciated!!! Thanks :)


    All I know about Honda automatics is that if the ring around the gear indicator is blinking that is code for malfunctioning transmission.

    S3 is probably sport, there should be an S4 to the right of it, and when you press the "overdrive" button on the shifter, it should shift from S3 to S4. I have that on my 88 Prelude 4WS. This was Honda's first attempt at manuamatics. The ones that have S3/S4 side by side have an electronically contorlled tranny, rather than mechanical tranny.

    Shift lock release is when your tranny intelock is malfunctioning you can manually release the tranny from park.
  • thank you very much..that does clear some things up!!
  • I'm thinking about buying a Honda Civic as I want something more fuel efficient and I was wondering if any of you are having any problems with rust. It seems that many Honda's I see on the road have rust especially around the locks and latches. They don't look to be very old. If you have rust, how many years before it appeared? I have a 94 Mustang driven through all kinds of weather in the midwest for the last 11 years and it has 120,500 miles on it with no rust at all. So, I've been hesitant to go with a Honda because of the rust issue. Would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
  • time to change the head gasket. I just had the same thing happen to my 92 civic .Make sure your head is not warped before replacing the gasket.There is a kit that honda sells for leaking gaskets. The kit has a different gasket and head bolts. Honda also has a service bulletin out on this problem.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I'm thinking about buying a Honda Civic as I want something more fuel efficient and I was wondering if any of you are having any problems with rust. It seems that many Honda's I see on the road have rust especially around the locks and latches. They don't look to be very old. If you have rust, how many years before it appeared? I have a 94 Mustang driven through all kinds of weather in the midwest for the last 11 years and it has 120,500 miles on it with no rust at all. So, I've been hesitant to go with a Honda because of the rust issue. Would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.

    I would think that any car will rust if not washed and taken care of properly. I have an 88 Prelude that is starting to rust around the wheel wells, but that is because the previous owner never fixed the paint chips.

    Newer Hondas come with rust perforation warranty for something like 5 or 6 years and unlimited mileage. I have not had rust issue on my 85 Civic (250,000 miles), 99 Civic, 2001 CR-V, or the current 2002 Si.

    I think this would be more owner dependant than anything, although Honda does have some rust prevention coating on the insides of the panels. You can also rust proof it at a car wash or a dealer, although I doubt that it would be better than OEM rust proofing on the car already.
  • jmz23qtjmz23qt Posts: 1
    My 93' Honda civic started fine and the clutch was fine also. i went away for 2 days came back to start my car and the clutch pedal was pushed all the way to the floor and i had no clutch. I couldn't shift into any gears and the pedal was all the way down. Once i warmed the car up a little bit the clutch pedal was better but barley any clutch . Has anyone had this problem or can someone tell me if this means i need a new clutch altogether.
  • mnavamnava Posts: 5
    Honda Civic 99 – 65k miles
    Hi everyone, I need help here. I have been reading a couple of messages here to try to figure out the problem, but I ran into so many different scenarios that I got lost. I am also afraid of getting ripped off. So, basically I have the check engine light on for a few weeks already and now the car shakes and looks like it is going to die when stop at the traffic light. I disconnected/connected the battery and light was off when I turn the key, but it came back on after 10 sec I started the car. It does not seem to overheat.
    Please any help is valuable. Thanks
  • Could it possibly have been that you thought you had a lot of clutch left when you really didn't? When the clutch was working before you noticed the problem, did you have to draw the pedal almost all the way out to get any friction? If so you had a clutch on its way out. That's a start for you, maybe need a little more information to try and help you better.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The engine control computer has stored a diagnostic trouble code relating to the affected circuit. AutoZone will retrieve the codes no charge. Post them. Any other approach is guesswork.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    Sounds like a slave cylinder problem. Check the fluid level and moisture content. How cold was it? Brake fluid accumulates moisture.
  • mnavamnava Posts: 5
    Thanks a lot, i will bring it in.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Sounds like a slave cylinder problem. Check the fluid level and moisture content. How cold was it? Brake fluid accumulates moisture.

    I am not sure if 93 Civic had hydraulic clutch, I am pretty sure it was a cable clutch.

    My 93' Honda civic started fine and the clutch was fine also. i went away for 2 days came back to start my car and the clutch pedal was pushed all the way to the floor and i had no clutch. I couldn't shift into any gears and the pedal was all the way down. Once i warmed the car up a little bit the clutch pedal was better but barley any clutch . Has anyone had this problem or can someone tell me if this means i need a new clutch altogether.

    Sounds like JMZ23QT needs to get the cable adjusted as it may have just stretched. I highly doubt that a worn clutch would cause the pedal to sink. A new cable may be in order as well.

    Another possibility is the trow out bearing. It is difficult to diagnose without seeing the actual car.

    Locate the cable connected to the lever on the tranny, and have someone press the clutch, see if the lever moves. If not, it is the cable. If the lever moves the full range of motion, then look for trow out bearing, or the clutch plate itself. This will require the removal of tranny from the vehicle (minimum $200 charge). Of you can just bench press the tranny your self while the car is on jack stands. I did that in a VW to replace the clutch. The clutch it self will cost you about $80 with all associated hardware.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Honda Civic 99 – 65k miles
    Hi everyone, I need help here. I have been reading a couple of messages here to try to figure out the problem, but I ran into so many different scenarios that I got lost. I am also afraid of getting ripped off. So, basically I have the check engine light on for a few weeks already and now the car shakes and looks like it is going to die when stop at the traffic light. I disconnected/connected the battery and light was off when I turn the key, but it came back on after 10 sec I started the car. It does not seem to overheat.
    Please any help is valuable. Thanks


    Like advised before, get the codes from Auto Zone. Chances are it is the oxygen sensor, so be prepared to pay upwards from $180 for it. It is not difficult to replace it your self, but it may be rusted from heat and you need to get under the car to get to it.

    99 may have two oxygen sensors one before the cat and one after the cat. I believe 99 is ODBII and should have 2 sensors.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    99 may have two oxygen sensors one before the cat and one after the cat. I believe 99 is ODBII and should have 2 sensors.

    Every vehicle sold in the U.S. and Canada since 1996 is OBD II compliant and has a post-catalytic converter O2 sensor to monitor catalyst efficiency.
  • leafleaf Posts: 9
    05 Civic LX

    Does civic has an engine air filter? How often do you need to replace it? How to get to it?

    Thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Nope it was a hydraulic system. You can buy the part here.
    http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/palace/wizard.jsp?partner=palace&year=1993&make=HO&mo- - del=CVC-DX2-001&category=I&part=Clutch+Slave+Cylinder


    My bad.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    05 Civic LX

    Does civic has an engine air filter? How often do you need to replace it? How to get to it?

    Thanks.


    If you refer to an air intake filter, all cars should have one:

    1) Complain to the dealer that your new car did not come with an owner's manual.

    2) When you get the manual, read it from cover to cover, and you shall find asnwers to most questions you may have.

    3) It is probably too early to replace it, unless you have racked up some high miles on the new car.
    Good luck.
  • 88crxsi88crxsi Posts: 1
    I bought one of those intake sensor mods and I have no clue where my intake air temperature sensor is. People tried to explain where its at but I just can not find it.
  • hpydudehpydude Posts: 3
    Hi. I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX Coupe with 75000 miles on it. Last week when I was waiting outside the office buliding with engine off but the radio and head lights on for 10 minutes, after that CAR did not start. I had to get the jump from other car's battery.

    After that one more time same thing happened by just keeping the radio on with engine switched off.

    Is this a battery issue ? If yes then where should I get the battery from and which one ?

    Thanks
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    It could very well be. Most places that sell batteries have a checking tool for battery and charging system. You can find out real quick.

    For one dollar, get yourself a 5 ball battery checker. Read the chart and so many balls that sink indicate a % of discharge or (float= % charge) remaining. I dont know how technical you want to get beyond that, but up to a certain % charge, it makes all the sense in the world to get a recharge. Past a certain % you are better off getting a new battery. (group 51) If it were mine to get, I would purchase a Costco (Johnson Controls) brand that has 3 year free replacement with 100 mo prorate @ $38.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Hi. I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX Coupe with 75000 miles on it. Last week when I was waiting outside the office buliding with engine off but the radio and head lights on for 10 minutes, after that CAR did not start. I had to get the jump from other car's battery.

    After that one more time same thing happened by just keeping the radio on with engine switched off.

    Is this a battery issue ? If yes then where should I get the battery from and which one ?

    Thanks


    I agree with ruking, about Costco branded battery. Costco has proven to have some very high quality items under their kirkland and costco brands.

    As far as the battery issue, do you have a high powered aftermarket stereo? If so, another battery of the same kind won't do much good. You may want to get a larger capacity battery, or a second battery for the sound system, such as sealed optima, and mount it in the trunk.

    Another thing to consider is how long your drive is. If your battery is discharged to the point where it won't crank the engine, you would need at least an hour of driving time at highway speeds (RPM's at or above 3000) to fully charge it. If you have short commute and frequent engine restarts, you would benefit from a larger capacity battery as well.

    It could be that your battery is fine, but the 10 minute headlights on thing discharged it, and the short drive never fully charged the battery. Although, if this is the original battery that came with the car in 99, you better off just replacing it now, rather than being stuck some where at the least expected moment.

    Battery replacement is within the scope of DIY, but it does require lifting of the somehwat heavy (25 lbs) battery, and removal of few connectors, and hold down plate. Then you have make sure the polarity is not reversed, when installing new battery.
    If you are not handy, Sears is probably the easiest place to get a replacement, but beware that the sales clerks are on comission. I think Sears has or had a 15 minute guarantee, or its free.
    Don't fall for the "goo-ga ga-ga" battery sales pitch, chances are you will not have the car by the time the warranty on the new battery is up. I have had $30 K-mart batteries last years and years.
  • I have a 2001 Honda Civic ex with 105,000 miles. The dealer is recommending a timing chain(belt?) replacement which is pretty costly. Nothing is wrong with this car and I'm wondering if this is REALLY necessary.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I have a 2001 Honda Civic ex with 105,000 miles. The dealer is recommending a timing chain(belt?) replacement which is pretty costly. Nothing is wrong with this car and I'm wondering if this is REALLY necessary.

    Timing belt replacement is necessary as well as water pump. You don't want to have the timing belt break on you, unless you have spare engine at home. Water pump replacement is just a preventative measure. Water pump ot riming belt them-selves are not expensive, but to get to them is very laborous. If you look at the cost breakdown, 80% of it is labor, 20% parts.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    " beware"...sales clerks are on commission.

    Like this is a "bad" thing?

    "goo-ga ga-ga" battery sales pitch??

    It's been a long time since I managed a Sears Auto Center but I sure don't remember any of this??
  • leafleaf Posts: 9

    If you refer to an air intake filter, all cars should have one:

    1) Complain to the dealer that your new car did not come with an owner's manual.

    2) When you get the manual, read it from cover to cover, and you shall find asnwers to most questions you may have.

    3) It is probably too early to replace it, unless you have racked up some high miles on the new car.
    Good luck.


    Yes, I am refering to air intake filter. I re-read my manual again and there is no section about DIY air filter replacement. The closest part may be related is that in scheduled maintanence, the air clean element needs to be replaced every 30k miles.

    Any one can confirm with their manual? And the air clean element just like asking you to go to the dealer place...
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    The shop manual does not make a DIY distinction. Can you still DIY? Absolutely! Would they rather you use a dealer? Absolutely!
  • mnavamnava Posts: 5
    I would like to thank you all for your help and share my findings.
    I went to the closest Auto Zone store and they let me use their code check for free. I got the following messages:
    option 1 - Read Codes - P0135 (Bank 1 sensor 1) - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction
    option 4 - I/M Monitor - O2 sensor, Evap Sys, and Catalyst (Not Ready)
    Moreover, I ended up spending ~$85 just for 1 Bosh Oxigen sensor (before or top) and replacing it myself after they lend me a socket.I just had to use my own wrench. At the end, I disconnected/connected the battery and that was it.
    Thanks again and I hope this info may help others.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The heater circuit brings the sensor up to operating temp faster so it can start producing it's signal sooner. Glad to hear you got it sorted out. Good of them to lend you the socket.
  • mlcolemlcole Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Del Sol, 5-speed, small block engine (no VTEC), stateside spec's with 215,000 original miles on it. My problem is the engine will not start.

    The problem started Monday afternoon. Took about 5 minutes before the engine caught and the cylinders fired up. A couple of times the engine did fire up, but it sounded like it was starving for something...trying to fire but couldn't[hope that makes sense]. Didn't have a problem all day after that.

    The engine has been working fine all week until Saturday morning. It did catch, like Monday, and worked fine all day. This morning, the problem is back and it's not catching like it did yesterday.

    Here's what I observed:
    1. When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump engage...normal
    2. The engine turns over, but the cylinders never fire. Only one instance of a "rumble" like they're trying to fire.
    3. Battery is good...replaced 8 months ago.
    4. No idiot lites to indicate a specific problem area.
    5. When I stop trying to start the engine I hear 4 distinct beeps in rapid succession.

    I suspect the 4 beeps are trying to tell me something. Anyone have a clue?

    Oh yeah...at the moment the weather here is cold, between 28F and 38F.

    Also, I have about an 1/8 of a tank of gas. The gas from the military gas stations tend to be a bit watery at times. I was going to run the tank dry and fill it up with an octane boost today.

    Thanks in advance for any assistance.

    regards

    .
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    If you only have 1/8 of a tank of fuel, and you have some water in the tank, you have found your problem. Get some good quality "Dry-Gas", and some additional fuel in the tank. DO NOT run the tank dry. If you have an electric fuel pump you will destroy the pump, because "fuel" is used to cool and lubricate the pump. Keep us posted on this issue. ----Greg
  • prosperprosper Posts: 3
    I know im probable to late for the battery problem but let me give u guys some advice, its not always a battery issue when your car decides to die out on u, u could do a couple of things check the ground wire's, after market electrical equipment that was just installed, and the alternator i use to have a lot of people come into my shop with this kind of problems, and it ends up being faulty wires or alternator or starter ground not being installed properly or have been loosened do to vibration.
    Water in the tank could be caused by weather changes and gregoryc1 has the right idea if there is enough water in your gas tank it can cause pump damage or even worse your engine could hydro lock and trust me u really dont want that....
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I re-read my manual again and there is no section about DIY air filter replacement. The closest part may be related is that in scheduled maintanence, the air clean element needs to be replaced every 30k miles.

    Any one can confirm with their manual? And the air clean element just like asking you to go to the dealer place...


    Unless the 2005 manual is completley redone, in the maintenance section of the owners manual it explains how to do most of the maintenance, including air filter replacement. It does in my 2002 Si, as it did in my 2001 CR-V, 1999 Civic, 1988 Prelude, 1987 Accord, and 1985 Civic.

    I don't know the exact orientation of your engine, but you should find the air box. If you don't know what it is, trace the air intake (it will look like black plasticky/rubber flexible pleated oversized tube) from the throttle back to the air box. The air box may have clips or bolts to undo it, un-do all of them, lift the top, or remove the bottom, depending on design. The air cleaner element will be inside. When installing new filter look for the air flow arrow poiting in the same direction as it did on the old one. You can buy new filter at the dealer or your local parts store.
  • hpydudehpydude Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for your advice Ruking and Blueiedgod. I think I will get the battery from COSTCO. Do you guys know if COSTCO installs the battery?
    Answers to BlueiedGod : I have the same car-stereo car came with.
    Yes, this is the same battery from 99
    My commute is real long ones, more than an hour each way.
    I also thought it would have drained by just keeping the headlights on for 10 mins. But the second experience with just the radio on was scary.
    Al right thanks again for all the input.

    Ruking Said :

    It could very well be. Most places that sell batteries have a checking tool for battery and charging system. You can find out real quick.

    For one dollar, get yourself a 5 ball battery checker. Read the chart and so many balls that sink indicate a % of discharge or (float= % charge) remaining. I dont know how technical you want to get beyond that, but up to a certain % charge, it makes all the sense in the world to get a recharge. Past a certain % you are better off getting a new battery. (group 51) If it were mine to get, I would purchase a Costco (Johnson Controls) brand that has 3 year free replacement with 100 mo prorate @ $38.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    I have to confess ignorance here. I just bought the thing and brought it home because the car that needed it was dead at home in the garage. I didn't want to chance taking it on the road with a restarted car, but dead battery.

    Of course you want to observe the battery install procedure so you dont get shocked. You also dont want to cross polarity and take a chance on shorting out a computer circuit either. Other than that just a few common hand tools and you are hooked up and ready to roll.

    I should have brought the old one up when I made the first (buy)trip. But I was concerned the lack of trickle draw would lose some of the codes. (the way I did it I lost nothing but have no real basis for comparison) On the next trip back to Costco, I brought the old one to the Costco tire center for disposal.
  • salongsalong Posts: 7
    Could be that water froze in your gas line or gas filter. I had this happen on an old pickup truck. When the weather warmed up, it started no problem. If this is the case, you would want to change you gas filter out. Hope this helps.
  • john500john500 Posts: 409
    Yow! 28 degrees. I wouldn't jump to changing the filter immediately. Buy some methanol (sold as "Dry-gas" at the store) and add it to your gas tank. If it is water phasing out, the methanol will depress the meltiing point of the water and form a flammable mixture at the same time. After allowing the dry-gas to mix for a few minutes, turn the car (in 5 s intervals) for a few minutes untill it starts. If it doesn't, then look into the fuel pump, fuel filter or spark. Check the manual for the significance of the four beeps. If it turns out to be water, a rule of thumb is to keep you tank 1/2 full in weather under 32 F.
  • eddief1eddief1 Posts: 13
    my 1987 civic1500 has the original carb with 130.000 on the OD. I just purchursed the car and the idle when started at any time (cold/Hot) will idle very high. It will not kick down this is causing the car to bang hard into gears. Any sugguestions with what to do.
  • If the fuel issue doesn't solve it, it could be a bad distributor/rotor cap which is responisble for providing spark. Since you say you get no firing in the cylinders sometimes, its a good bet that could be the problem. Had that problem with my 95 Civic DX which I believe had the same motor as what you have. It was an easy DIY and cost $50 approx.
  • Maybe a stuck automatic choke?
  • eddief1eddief1 Posts: 13
    THANK YOU I WILL LOOK INTO THE CHOKE. I AM GOING TO REPLACE THE TIMING BELT (GATES) WATER PUMP(BOSCH)WIRES,CAP,ROTOR(BORGWARNER)PLUGS(NGK)ARE THESE REPLACEMENT PARTS OK FOR THE 1.5 MOTOR FOR THIS CIVIC? ALSO I GOT A GOOD BUY ON (4) TOKICO SHOCKS FROM A GUY WHO WIPED OUT HIS 1987CRX. I LIKE TO REPLACE THE FOLLOWING PARTS WHEN EVER I PURCHURSE A USED VEHICLE ANY FEED BACK IS WELCOMED. THANKZ
  • eddief1eddief1 Posts: 13
    My new purchurse of a 1987 civic1500 hatchback has the original size 13 inch tires and rims. Can I put 14 inch rims and tires from a 1991crx?
This discussion has been closed.