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PT Cruiser Air Conditioning Questions/Problems

myrtlebeachptmyrtlebeachpt Posts: 2
edited May 2015 in Chrysler
hi my wife has a 2006 2.4 touring edition with 36.6 k miles on it and the AC knocked off today...i cant find any relays or anything in the fuse box that seem to have anything to do with the HVAC system except for a single 10amp fuse that is when i have the hood up and the ac on i dont even hear the compressor cutting in and out...i dont think that it is low on coolant because in my previous vehicle experience they would gradually become less and less effective until they quit cooling because of coolant loss....any help would be appreciated thanks guys and gals

See Also: PT Cruiser Electrical Problems


  • Hi all, I have a 2005 PT Cruiser that has recently started giving me some problems. I notice when I am sitting at a light and my AC is on the car jerks. It is so bad that I have to turn off the AC. I noticed this AM that the lights even flicker as it is jerking. I took it into the shop and they did a complete system check and said they couldn't find where the problem was. I am still under warranty on this. Does anyone have any ideas?
    I have 49,000 miles on it.

    Thank you :confuse:
  • I have a 04 PT Cruiser 2.4L Non Turbo. When waiting for a traffic light the A/C vents start blowing warm and the compressor cycles very fast. (driving along is fine, ice cold air) I noticed the electric fan was not working. At home in the driveway it works perfect. It idles with the fan running and ice cold air out of the vents all day.
    Anyone else have this problem?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I am not an expert but it seems that your problem may involve a sensor that controls the engine's idling. The A/C adds an extra load on the engine and there's a sensor that adjusts the idle for the additional load. This may be a good place to start to find the answer to the problem. Good luck.
  • tstahltstahl Posts: 1
    The same thing happened to my car. How do u fix it. If you could reply back i would really appreciate it. Thanks
  • My PT cruiser (2005 touring edition w/ 2.4L engine) is having the same problems as all the others in this forum. The compressor cycles erratically causing the engine rpm to fluctuate and jerk. What I noticed today when connecting my gauges to the system was that the reason why the compressor is cycling on and off is because the high side pressure is rising above 400psi. When it reaches approximately 450 psi, the high side pressure switch cycles the compressor off for safety reasons. The normal operating pressure for the high side is about 150 - 200 psi. Not sure what is causing the pressure to rise so high, but it appears that there may be a blockage in the system restricting the refrigerant flow.
  • When your high side pressure spikes to 400psi or higher, that could mean that you might have a bad radiator fan motor,or a bad fan relay. Also your engine may be overheating. on a 95 degree the high side pressure should be approxmately 275-300psi.
  • In response to 93taurus's comment, I already checked the operation of the radiator fan motor and relay and they both seem to work fine. As for the high side pressure, it spikes above 400 psi within 4 mins of starting the vehicle up from a cold start and with the a/c on high.
  • The PT Cruiser has a two speed cooling fan. If the A/C pressure is climbing to 450 pounds while sitting still it's most likely going to be either the high speed fan relay (most likely) or a bad cooling fan.(least likely) Without the extra air flow through the condenser from the high speed circuit the pressure will spike until the high pressure cut out switch opens.
  • sorefootsorefoot Posts: 2
    I started to experience the same symptoms as everyone else, stopping in traffic and the A/C starts to pour warm air out of the vents. I had the dealership where i purchased it look at it thinking it needed recharged. Instead the service person came and told me it would be close to $700 to fix the problem, i was informed that the FAN MODULE was bad. I took it to another Chrysler dealer and was told the same thing. I couldn't afford to have it replace so i opted to keep driving it as long as it didn't over heat. My daughter purchased an 07(mine is an 06) 2 days after i purchased mine at the same dealership. she called me 2 weeks ago and asked me what problems i was having and she now has the same problems as i. My future son in law also purchased a used PT Cruiser last yr and he is having the SAME problems, the local Chrysler Dealer told him close to $600 to have it repaired. I'm inclined to think that these fan modules aren't made to last more than about 40,000 miles and then give out. Isn't it amazing that you can' t find them anyplace but the DEALER, unless you can be lucky enough to find one in a salvage yard.
    Anyone else having problems please contact me here. I'd like to see how many of us are having the same problems.
  • gmaureengmaureen Posts: 1
    I think I have the same problem. When I stop in traffic, the engine seems to rev-up then die back and shudder...but only when the A/C is on. Today, the A/C stopped working. I only have 22,000 miles on this car....a 2006 Limited, non turbo
  • mjtoledanomjtoledano Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my PT cruiser, a 2006 Limited Edition non-turbo w/ a 2.4 L engine. I initially recharged the system and the problem never went away. I also checked the fan relays and the fan. I noticed that as the refrigerant pressure rose up approaching 450 psi, the compressor would kick off and the air would become warm. The A/c works fine if i'm driving down the road, but once airflow stops over the condensor the pressure increases which eventually causes the compressor to shut down. If the condensor fan isnt working properly, it will not reduce the refrigerant temperature/pressure and the system will cycle on and off, over and over again. I was able to find the condensor fan on ebay for $98 with free shipping. Replacing the fan was fairly easy, taking about 40 mins to take off the old one, and put the new one on. Once the new one was on, the system works likes it's suppossed to. The dealer charges an arm and a leg for the fan, and also for labor. If you bought a chilton's manual for $15 and the fan for $98, you could fix the problem for a fraction of the costs of the dealer.
  • sorefootsorefoot Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info Maureen. I contacted my state consumer advocates office and the Feds yesterday as well as Chrysler. I'm getting forms to fill out from the state and feds and Chrysler is startting a probe into whats going on. Although I have to take it to a dealer to have it "RETESTED" because it's been a year since they dicovered the problem. I'm going to look into your solution but I'm hoping Chrysler will come around and discover that their "fan modules" stink and replace it at no charge.
  • mysteriousmysterious Posts: 2
    Usually there are high and low pressure switches on your a/c lines that tell the compressor to kick on and off. Chances are that your pressure is too high or low, which tells the computer to leave the a/c compressor off so that it doesn't tear up the compressor and make your problem worse. Take it to a technician to have the pressures and sensors checked.
  • mysteriousmysterious Posts: 2
    Sounds like you have an electrical short somewhere in the system.
    I would check the connection at the compressor first. Wiggle it with the a/c on and see if it makes the compressor go off and on. If so, you found your problem. Find other sensors(high and low) that are part of the system and wiggle them too.
  • pegscakespegscakes Posts: 2
    We just bought a 2005 Dream Cruiser edition. When we initially were purchasing it the air was not working. It was blowing hot. We asked the dealer to fix it before we picked up the car. They indicated that they replaced a "switch" and the air was working. We used the air the following day and it smelled a little toxic to me. Today when we turned the air on we were back to square one again with it blowing hot air. This seems like the same problem others are experiencing. We had the oil changed earlier today and they also flushed the radiator because the previous owner had the wrong coolant in there, UGH. Do you think the flushing could have caused the air to stop working?? At least the dealer gave us a 6 month warranty on the air, hopefully they will fix it. I'm sure they won't appreciate me coming in there with an idea that the fan module needs to be replaced. Can anyone give me a better way to explain this to the repair people??? Thanks
  • gigilgigil Posts: 2
    Last October the dealer replaced the thermostat/radiator & cooling fan after my car overheated (and less than a week after I got it out of the shop for a broken timing belt). Of course, now it is June and my a/c no longer works. Any ideas what it could be? It appears as if the components that everyone else is having problems with have already been replaced.

  • trese1trese1 Posts: 1
    I have a 06 Cruiser and my air condition only blows warm to hot air the fluid is full What else could it be? I don't heard anything turning on when i try to turn air on.
  • ptcruizinptcruizin Posts: 1
    I have an 07 PT Cruiser and in the last few months when driving on the highway (usually at speeds above 65 mph), I begin hearing water dripping or running and the AC begins to decrease and is not as clod. I will also see steam/smoke coming out of the vents, but nothing is burning.

    Any thoughts? I have about 54,000 miles on it and bought it used.
  • melssatmelssat Posts: 1
    My car is a 2007 PT Cruiser convertible with 39,000 on it. It just started doing the same thing described here. I am really upset over this as I still have 5 years left to pay for this car and already big problems.
  • gigilgigil Posts: 2
    I took my 03 to the dealership. Turned out that there was a leak in the O-ring. Cost $180 to replace.

    One thing I learned is to call Chrysler (at their 800 number) and complain. When my timing belt broke at 85K miles, they agreed to pay half of the repair (since it didn't last until 90K which is their recommendation per the owners manual.) I will warn you that it is time consuming. It took me two hours with at least 3 different people (up the food chain) before they agreed to pay. Persistence (and the threat of buying a Honda or Toyota in the future) paid off.

    Good luck!
  • My brother is a mechanic and after spending several hours diagnosing the problem he had the same conclusion -- the low pressure indicator switch is out, but also on a major backorder (less than 100 available nation-wide and over 800 on backorder).

    He fixed it temporarily by simply bypassing the low pressure switch. The bad part about this is that the compressor runs all the time, so you must MANUALLY cycle it off when it starts freezing up so it won't burn up the compressor.

    Does anyone know where we can find this part? With the Chysler Bankruptcy issue, I'm not sure how long it will take to get back-order parts back in stock.
  • Me too -- Bought my '06 PT used with 32K miles -- now has 48K and having this issue with the AC. I've also had the shuddering issue when idling at a stop -- only warm air blows out unless you're driving.

    I had several Chrysler minivans and swore to never own another Chrysler...should have kept to my promise. THIS IS THE LAST ONE I WILL EVER OWN -- EVER!!! I'm buying a Honda or Toyota next time.
  • inlayusainlayusa Posts: 1
    I had the same A/C problem (compressor not turning “ON”) and many owners must have as well, since this original Chrysler replacement switch is in short supply. However, I got one through Auto Zone (6-23-09) in Mulberry, FL and it should be available from them since they had to order it from their warehouse (I got it the next day) and it wasn't just one they happened to have in store stock. It did not come in Chrysler packaging but is a Santech #MT1191 (A/C Switch) Low-pressure cut-off switch M12x1.5 Chrysler. It looks exactly the same and screwed into the condenser and the plugs-in is the same including the connector lock. It seems to be just like the original A/C switch and works just fine. It cost $30 bucks and change with tax. In case you can't get it through Auto Zone here is Santech address:

    2450 Handley Ederville Rd.
    Ft. Worth, TX 76118

    Hope this helps, InlayUSA
  • Thanks!! I called Santech in Fort Worth and they told me this is compatible, if not better, than the original MOPAR part (5058736AA) which is still on backorder across the country at Chrysler Dealerships. They are beginning to get their shipments, but very slowly -- and the parts they're getting in are already spoken for.

    This Santech part (MT 1191) is available at AutoZone, XL Parts (713) 983-1100 and North Houston Starter (281) 586-7374. Good Luck to everyone!!

  • jimwelsh1jimwelsh1 Posts: 4
    Same problems as described by everyone else in regards to the air conditioning. I have a 2006 PT Cruiser, 45K miles. Air conditioning started acting up. Compressor cycling rapidly, ‘bucking’ at a stop light, blowing warm/hot air at stop. Going around a corner sometimes the a/c would ‘catch’ and blow cold air. Noticed sometimes when turning on a/c, I would hear a sound like a flapper valve slamming shut. Noticed what appeared to be a cloud of steam or vapor coming from under the left headlight area, also noticed moisture vapors coming in through the vents. Took it to the local Jiffy lube to have the R134 checked. They told me that the compressor was not cycling, but there was no leaks.
    Long story short, all I get now is hot air coming through the vents. I have verified that the cooling fan does kick in. I tried disconnecting/ bypassing the A/C Clutch Cycling Switch to see if that would make any difference with no luck. Is there any other switch/sensor or relay I can bypass to see if the compressor will cycle?
    Jim Welsh
  • pegscakespegscakes Posts: 2
    We finally got our air conditioning fixed. After they replaced a lot of things (and it still didn't work) they discovered that the hoses to the air conditioner were getting crimped every time we turned the wheel and the freon was leaking out. They replaced all the hoses and now we haven't had any problems.
  • jimwelsh1jimwelsh1 Posts: 4
    I do not think that is the problem on my Cruiser. I did notice that there was a sending unit/sensor on the compressor itself. The only way I can see to access this sender is from undernieth unless you have very long, small hands and arms, then you can do it from the top. What would happen if I bypassed this sender, and is this the same sending unit as the santech?
    Jim Welsh
  • djanmitchdjanmitch Posts: 2

    I have an 07 PT and this just started happening to me in the past few weeks. I am the original owner and so (supposedly) still have that lifetime warranty and have around 60,000 miles on the car. I took it to a local mechanic and he said that it was my fan not kicking on (didn't say which one) and that it should be under warranty still and that the dealership would have to fix it.

    I know very little about cars and don't want to take it to the dealership to get royally screwed over. Can ppl advise me what I need to ask/talk to them about or what actions to take?

  • You can now buy the fan at ORIELLY AUTO PARTS for around a hundred dollars. It is the fan moter only(that is all you need) the dealer wants to sell you the assemble. You can change it yourself in about an hour, it is a pretty simple job. You can drive the car at hiway speeds and it will be fine. If you are in town or in traffic it will start to overheat. While at hiway speed the car gets enough air flow to keep from overheating. If you have any questions i will be glad to try and answer them for you.
  • djanmitchdjanmitch Posts: 2
    Thank you so much!
    Would the fan be something that would be covered under the lifetime-power trane warranty? I am the original owner and if it's something covered under warranty I'll let them fix it?

    You're great!
  • joliverijoliveri Posts: 1
    i wanted to thank you for this post! my air conditioner is fixed now, just in time for the first really hot week in the northeast this summer.
    a note to other 2007 pt cruiser owners who can't get the original low pressure switch from chrysler -- the santech part (MT 1191) is on back order now too but MT 0205 in conjunction with MT0135 will work too. I got this info direct from santech.
  • smccanssmccans Posts: 1
    can you tell me when you changed this part did you have to drain the a/c or are you able to just replace it?
  • voxxyvoxxy Posts: 2
    Same problem here. Base model '06 PT w/manual transmission, 52.7K miles. Just started happening maybe 10 days - 2 weeks ago (a/c blowing warm at slower speeds, one incident of smoke expelling from left side following short hiss, terrible idle w/ a/c on, etc.). Firestone quoted me $1251.00 to fix! They said high end pressure @ 500psi. Took car to AAA Auto Care. It's there right now. Awaiting word tomorrow, but would very much like to repair for MUCH less. I'm not mechanical, however, so not sure what to expect re: making a repair myself or via a mechanic friend. Already out time and $$ for multi-day car rental, etc. I will also call Chrysler and at least let them know that I am another customer with this problem. I'm sure grateful for all the info here and to know I'm not alone.
  • My 2002 Cruiser has a hole in the high pressure hose connecting the condenser and compressor. My repairman's efforts to secure a replacement part have proved fruitless; his supplier can only find four in the country and those dealers won't sell them. Does anyone have any good leads on where I can look for this hose? Thanks!
  • voxxyvoxxy Posts: 2
    Update: AAA diagnosed my problem as a bad cooling fan, which seemed to match what I had been reading here so that was a relief. They said my model ('06 base model w/manual trans) only has a single cooling fan, btw, and not the two that some other PTs have. The part was back ordered 3 weeks, however, so I decided to call an acquaintance who works for Chrysler locally to see if he could do anything. He said that local dealers are not willing to part with these fans b/c they obviously need them for their own customers but he found a few in another city and got one for me.

    Then I called Chrylser. They said they might be willing to consider a goodwill compensation for this repair if I had it done at a dealership. Well, the bottom line is I did that, and they decided to totally cover all parts and labor. This had nothing to do with the fact that I knew a Chrysler employee, either. In fact, he thought I was "screwed" b/c I was past the 36K original warranty (I'm at 52.7K). He was very surprised that they did this for me.

    Chrysler clearly realizes that this is an issue. I think everyone should call them (800-992-1997) and at least report their issue. I was only on the phone a very short time both times I called them and had good reps, too. My second call to them, after the repair was done, was to see if they would be willing to help me with my car rentals, and I'm awaiting a response today. I am still out $500 ($360 for rentals and $140 for Firestone and AAA's diagnoses), but I am pretty happy to not have it any worse.

    Thanks again to everyone who has posted here. You all gave me the inspiration and motivation to see it through to this point, and things have gone relatively well so far despite the time, stress and effort. My A/C is back blowing the cold air it is supposed to now!
  • My 2007 Cruiser is spitting out a cold oderless vapor or "smoke" similar to what you see once you open a freezer or coming from dry ice. The air blows cold but the smoke comes out only when i have been driving for 10 to 15 minutes and stops once I idle. My mechanic cannot replicate it to determine the cause. I have taken it in 3 days in a row to have them figure it out. It is very strange, as if the A/C is too cold but it comes and goes with out any other symptoms. I wonder if I should worry about it or just see if it goes away once the weather cools down. Anyone else experience this?
  • slw22slw22 Posts: 1
    I was having problems with my AC blowing warm air when at an idle. In late June I took it in and they replaced the radiatior fan module. I had to pay the $100 deductible. A few weeks later I started having more problems. A lot like what is being described above. AC works on and off and sometimes I have vapor coming out of the vent. I took it to the dealer and they can not figure out what is wrong. They want me to leave the car all day but I can not do that because I have no other means of transportation. Now my AC is not working at all. When I called the dealership they pretty much told me I have to leave my car. I asked what am I suppose to do to get to work? They basically told me nothing they could do about it. I called Chrysler and was told they could not give me a rental unless they know what the problem is. Well since they can not even figure out the problem what am I suppose to do? So basically they are telling me to bad. Last time I buy from Chrysler. No wonder they are having such bad times.
  • After chasing my tail and the web I found that removing the LOW SPEED FAN RELAY FUSE Located under the hood in the Power Center Fuse box is a simple way to Not only diagnose if the Fan is working but it Will make the AC work properly. HOWEVER, REMOVING THE LOW SPEED FAN RELAY FUSE WILL MAKE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND STAY ON IF REMOVED. The upside is the HIGH SPEED OPERATION, if properly working will STAY ON ALL THE TIME. The method is before you start the car, pop the hood and locate the Central Power Fuse Box. Check the diagram for the LOW SPEED FAN RELAY(Larger 40amp black fuse) should be on left side nearest end toward BOOSTING POST. Remove the fuse and simply crank the car. The fan should spin with or without the AC on. The engine code will be P0480, Cooling Circuit 1. No spin bad fan. Spinning fan good AC. ;)
  • Would you be able to post a pic that shows exactly what relay to pull? I don't want to wind up pulling the wrong one and cause something else to go out.
  • Yes, but the diagram on the inside of the Power box cover has good details. The fuse is locate on the end with the RED Plastic Positive Boosting Post. Start at that post and look for the first 1x1 Cubic Fuse. Refer to the diagram of the Box Lid, Holding the lid/diagram properly-Readable, Words and numbers NOT upside down is a perfect match to the fuse box itself. Hint: Slightly wiggle the fuse as you pull it out, makes remove somewhat easier. ALSO, the engine Light Will come on, DTC code P0480 Cooling Circuit 1 will remain open allowing the High Speed to run all the time. The Fuse Must Be Put Back into the slot to remove code. If you remove the fuse, it is only a bypass/crossover, I Keep the Fuse in the Glove Box until I fix what I hope is only a new switch on the Climate Control Panel. That seems to be the cause, I took off the AC knob and could simply see a Big Crack running from the Knob Spendle. Check you Knobs, the short may be there. ;)
  • Help 06 p/t 50 amp fuse was blown, engine heating and a/c not working, looks like high speed and low speed relay on right side of fan shroud, no power to either, new fuse did not blow,where does the power go to after ther fuse. help
  • I know the fan plug can be seen from underneath the front bumper, roughly center yourself between the driver side head light and center grill line. Looking up from the ground the plug will be easy to spot on the fan housing. You can chase the wires toward the fuse panel which are aligned with more wires. You may try check the High speed fan relay. Currently my fan runs all the time with NO Low Speed Relay in at All. If working properly the High Speed Relay should overide and cool the radiator all the time. My fix will be a new Heat/Control Panel in the dash, not too pricey on Ebay.
  • :confuse: I noticed yesterday that when I turn on my air conditioner, a gurgling sound can be heard. Later, after a three hour drive, I found that my passenger side floorboard is wet! Also, water can be heard sloshing around when I turn curves. I have no idea what to do about this! My first thought was that water has somehow gotten into my car since it has been raining in my area for weeks, but that just seems unlikely. Any idea what my problem might be?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You may have a plugged AC system drain. The evaporator and condenser remove moisture from the conditioned air and that water usually drains away while you drive. If the drain is plugged or damaged, the water collects inside the system.

    Have a mechanic who is skilled with AC check the drains.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • You were absolutely right! There were leaves all in there, and when the mechanic popped off the hose, he quickly found the problem.

    Thanks for calming my nerves. :-D
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You're very welcome - glad it was just that! :)

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • Is your fan still running with NO Low side Relay in it? Have you had any problems while running like this?
  • My 06 PT Cruiser was diagnosed needing the radiator fan module, will this eventually cause the car itself to break down, or lead to other problems? My car has never overheated, the AC just shuts on and off in traffic, and now that it's getting into fall, I don't even use the AC.
  • when i start the a/c the fan doesn't work,it only works with the engine.
  • That happened to our 2006, but it's not smoke, it's like a a mist. There are times it can actually look like snow is coming out of the vents. We we looked under the hood there is a white icey covering all over the exterior to the AC lines. We still don't know whats wrong. It happened during the summer and figure it will cost a lot to fix, and we don't have the money.
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