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PT Cruiser Air Conditioning Questions/Problems

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  • We tried that, I'm starting to think its the compressor. The compressor and fan both kick on and run as long as their is refridgerant in the system and it slowly leaks. According to a mechanic it could be leaking from the compressor itself. So that my next replacement.
  • Before you replace the compressor, try a lubricant/leak sealer charge. Most national and local auto parts suppliers have these on floor display. They may also include them as part of a kit with a Freon cannister, hose, and pressure gage. The lubricant/leak sealer is a small cartridge that attaches to the low pressure port (the same port used to charge the Freon). The lubricant/sealer also normally includes a red dye to help identify the source of any leaks. Once the lubricant/sealer has been drawn into the A/C system, you will need to check the Freon charge. After a time, the sealer will do its job and the Freon charge will need to be checked one last time.

    These kits are a heck of a lot cheaper than compressor replacement.
  • ptc3ptc3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 PT Cruiser. I have had A/C issues and had my compressor replaced and it still isn't blowing ice cold air. It does blow cooler then before but doesn't ever gett cold enough were I need to lower it. What else could be the issue?
  • Two things come to mind: (1) Post-compressor-replacement Freon leak (it happens); have it checked; and, (2) compressor short-cycling, typically caused by our old friend, the LPS.

    Even when all works well, do not expect "ice-cold air". When all works well, the car interior should be comfortable on fan speed 1 (recirculating mode- MAX) in 100-degree heat after a ten-minute cool down at higher fan speeds.
  • The relay modules for low and high speed are mounted on the radiator fan shroud assembly.
  • shawnxl1shawnxl1 Posts: 1
    can u tell me were the lps is located i have touring and it my differ from yours but ne info would help
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Posts: 62
    edited July 2011
    It is located atop the accumulator against the firewall on the passenger side. Here's a link to a posting page that includes a diagram of what it looks like (it looks the same on a Jeep and a PT):

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c-low-pressure-cut-off-switch-827635/
  • Well, PT A/C fans, believe it or not, I replaced my LPS (Low Pressure Switch) for the second time in a little over a year. That means I am on my third one since I bought the car (and I did not even have any A/C for over a year). So, any A/C mechanic or dealer who claims no knowledge of this probelm is either uninformed or just not being truthful.

    The good news is that the cost this time out was $10.00 cheaper this year than last ($19.81 vs $29.54), and, I bought it from the same outlet (AutoZone - it was in stock). The part is a Santech MT1191 "A/C Clutch Cycling Switch". It took me all of two minutes to replace it once I opened the hood (See my replacement instructions from last year).

    Once again, my advice to anyone with PT A/C problems is to always, always perform the LPS paperclip test BEFORE spending any money on expensive repairs. Just make sure the system is charged with Freon first.

    Good luck. Please post your success stories on this forum.
  • ollinmollinm Posts: 2
    A/C still working great. We had several 100+ degrees days in July. I replaced the fan assembly just to be sure. I guess I'll throw the old one away now even though it still works after a few drops of oil in the motor bearing.
  • I also have all of these A/C problems. I've read ALL the messages, but I can't find if you can install a new LPS without losing all of the freon. How can that work???

    If I change the rad cooling fan, how does the low/ high speeds work with only 2 wires on the new fan? Why do you talk about the hi/lo relays? I only have 1 relay in the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. Too many unanswered questions.

    I live in MN so we're almost finished with summer anyway, but I hate to dump the car on some unsuspecting soul. I did A/C work for years back in the past, but things have changed a lot since then.
  • Integral with the accumulator LPS fitting is a "Schrader" valve - the same type of valve used on tires for over 100 years. The LPS screws onto the valve/fitting the same way you mights screw a pneumatic device onto a tire valve. The Freon can only escape for a scant second as the LPS is tightened and sealed at the same time the valve begins to open.

    The cable assembly from the controller to the radiator fan shroud contains more than two wires. A connector on the shroud terminates wires from the two fan relays (Hi and Low) also mounted on the shroud. The relays can be seen from underneath the car while looking up at the shroud assembly.

    Having said that, I am unknowledgeable about the exact configuration of the '04 PT. I believe these are the facts for at least the '06 through '10 model years. If anyone else can provide additional confirmation, please do so by posting to this thread.
  • Thanks for explaining the Schrader valve. I'm very familiar with them. It's almost like they planned on failures. I jumped mine and the fan or compressor still didn't come on.

    I do not have relays on the shroud, just the 3 wire connector. One (black) is ground (center) and when I run a hot wire to one side wire, the fan comes on, I don't know if it's high or low. Nothing on the other wire.

    There is one relay in the fuse box under the hood that says "low speed fan". I switched it with a new one and nothing cheanges.

    When I start engine and turn on the a/c, the compressor comes on, but not the fan, (thinking that's the low speed that's not responding to the Hot wire).

    My question is still, there are only 2 wires on the new fan, how do I hook that up to the hi/low factory wires? Should I just hook it up to the one that I know is hot?

    I also jumped the wires on the thermostate housing senser and it wouldn't start the fan.

    I finally spliced a 14 gauge wire into the wire that makes the fan run and put a stitch inside the car and ran it to the battery term. I just have to make sure I turn the fan off when I get out of the car.

    Thanks for any help you can give me. I used to work for our local Chrysler dealer and I doubt if they have ANY idea of what's going on.

    Frustrated!
  • Thank GOD the weather has cooled off (80's now). I've been driving on the highway and everything is COOL (great). Temp gauge stays right in the middle, A/C works great. I don't know how the fans are working and don't care as long as everything is working OK. I still have the bypass switch inside the car in case I HAVE to cool everything off. When the weather cools off, I'll unhook the switch and put it back to normal.

    I've had Mopar mini vans for years, but don't need the extra room anymore. Bet I'll have another Mini Van!!!

    So Sad! I love the car, but will dump it in a minute if I get a chance . I bet I don't own it next Spring!!!!! Thanks so much for all the info.

    Later
  • Hello;
    I have had A/C issues as discussed in this forum in my 2003 PT. It passed the paperclip test. The radiator fan was not coming on when selecting A/C so I replaced the low speed fan relay since it was easy and cheap. Turned out it was the radiator fan itself. Replaced that and system works fine however, I suspect an overpressure/bleed event happened because the system is not as cold as it used to be. Originally, the air conditioner in this car would freeze you out, it was the coldest I have known.
    My question is; can I charge the system (just add some R134a) using a gage? I just have a single gage, not a 2 gage manifold set. So I can only check high side or low side. Every shop I have called says the only way to do it is evacuate and recharge (to the tune of $150). I feel since I know the event/failure that caused the charge to be a little low it would be nice to just add some freon however, I don't want to overcharge either.
    Thanks for your help.
  • bmacflabmacfla Posts: 5
    edited September 2011
    Anyone out there, have you replaced your a/c compressor yourself. I am having trouble figuring out how to get to it. I have the passenger wheel off and the plastic shielding and I can get to the bottom mounting screws but the top are tough and forget about the lines. How did you do it?

    Did you have to tilt or remove the radiator or if you can get the 4 bolts off will it lower enough with the lines attached to get to them?

    any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    2006 Pt cruiser convertible touring edition 2.4L turbo/ auto
  • I did get all 4 mounting bolts off but how do you get to the gas connectors?
  • got it done
  • I have a 2004 Turbo and the low pressure A/C hose split. I have unbolted it, but I can't remove it. I know I can cut the hose, but then how do I get the new one in? I have looked at the manuals , but they don't say anything about it. I can't afford the $400 for the mechanic to do it. What is next? It is still in the 100's here so I have to have a cool car.
    Help!
  • We just got our 07 touring out of storage (2 years). It sounds like a motor cycle engine when you accelerate. The mechanic could not make the car repeat the noise when he took it for a test drive. It ends up it is the bearings in the a/c compressor. Mechanic said we have to replace the entire compressor? Before we put it in storage, we had the problem with blowing hot air when a/c on, but we did not have time to get the LPS changed. Could this have caused the bearings to go bad, or do you think it was sitting for 2 years.

    Any advice? It's about $1000 to get a new compressor and we want to make sure this is our only option.
  • If it makes the whining noise with the A/C turned off then it is the A/C clutch, assuming that it is at all associated with the A/C. It could also be the power sterring pump. I do not know if it is feasible to replace the A/C clutch without replacing it with the compressor as a unit. But, I would sure try.

    The LPS would have nothing to do with the clutch noise. If the LPS is bad, then it would prevent the clutch from engaging; and when it is good, it can prevent the clutch from cycling when the system is too low on freon and oil.

    Attempt to isolate the noise to either the A/C or the power steering. Switch the A/C on and off to see if there is a difference.

    Good luck.
  • snow14snow14 Posts: 2
    The problem is now fixed. It was the compressor, LPS, HPS, and the fan. It now runs better than it did before it went into storage.
  • I have a 2006 and mine just started blowing the oderless vapor. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!! How do I fix this problm?
  • Help all...I had my AC fixed at the local Chrysler dealer last April for $917. It stopped blowing cool air after driving for 45 minutes. Now my AC stops blowing cold air while idling but works fine any other time. The dealer last year indicated to me and it says on my receipt, 3yr or 50,000 mile warranty. If it breaks, we fix it free. I took it in and not only am I expected to pay $119 for a diagnostic test, but I'm awaiting the estimate. The guy tells me warranty covers only the parts that have previously been replaced. There is no stipulation on this warranty. My question is, don't they have to honor the warranty they have in writing? PS I only have 40,000 on the car.
  • pcgrannypcgranny Posts: 2
    My 2005 pt just started doing the same thing !!
    previously it would jump and sputter when a/c was running and i was at a light.today when hubby turned on a/c temp shot straight up !! car alarmed,after it cooled it was fine temp went down,is it safe to drive the interstate as long as i don,t run a/c ? i drove the day before i had no problems,and no problem earlier this morn until he turned on a/c :sick:
  • pcgrannypcgranny Posts: 2
    can someone tell me whats wrong so i don,t get robbed at repair shop,my fan isn,t coming on when i run the casr or turn it off :mad: :sick:
  • mcclint67mcclint67 Posts: 2
    cooling fan needs to be replaced or you'll start to overheat. My AC stops at lights and this is the diagnosis. If your fan isn't coming on, that's what it is. I didn't have the dealer do the work as the total would have been $700. The part is way cheaper online and I'll go from there. I may even try to replace it myself
  • gbrauchtgbraucht Posts: 1
    I had the same issue with my 07' cruiser. The air conditioning would blow out warm/hot air while i was idling. Turns out I had some kind of major problem with my radiator. Luckily, it was covered by my warranty. After I got that fixed the air conditioning worked fine for about a year, then stopped working all together, only blows out warm air, unless the temp outside it lower then it will blow out cool air. I took it in to the dealership hoping the problem would be covered by my warranty. It was not. They told me they couldn't find any leaks and when they tested the air conditioner it was working fine. One year later, the air conditioner still does not work "fine". I have a much more reliable mechanic now and I will be taking to him to diagnose the problem.
  • Sounds like classic and notorious LPS (Low Pressure Switch) symptom. Review previous thread entries for this $19 fix.
  • porchdogporchdog Posts: 2
    warm air out of vents. replaced expansion tube and recharged. ice cold to the firewall but still no cold air out of vents. have been told it is the blend door. any info on this.
    thank you
  • Sounds like a diverting damper (blend door) that directs the flow of air over the heater core or the evaporator coil. On some cars, this is linked to the cool/heat/temp knob on the console which also regulates flow of hot water through the heater coil (it may also be linked to a separate heat/cool knob). I'm no expert here, but I think there is a actuator linkage for the hot water valve and a second bell-crank linkage for the damper. You should be able to hear the damper clamp shut (or open) when you twist the knob fully (and quickly) in either direction (full hot/full cool).
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