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PT Cruiser Air Conditioning Questions/Problems



  • joliverijoliveri Posts: 1
    i wanted to thank you for this post! my air conditioner is fixed now, just in time for the first really hot week in the northeast this summer.
    a note to other 2007 pt cruiser owners who can't get the original low pressure switch from chrysler -- the santech part (MT 1191) is on back order now too but MT 0205 in conjunction with MT0135 will work too. I got this info direct from santech.
  • smccanssmccans Posts: 1
    can you tell me when you changed this part did you have to drain the a/c or are you able to just replace it?
  • voxxyvoxxy Posts: 2
    Same problem here. Base model '06 PT w/manual transmission, 52.7K miles. Just started happening maybe 10 days - 2 weeks ago (a/c blowing warm at slower speeds, one incident of smoke expelling from left side following short hiss, terrible idle w/ a/c on, etc.). Firestone quoted me $1251.00 to fix! They said high end pressure @ 500psi. Took car to AAA Auto Care. It's there right now. Awaiting word tomorrow, but would very much like to repair for MUCH less. I'm not mechanical, however, so not sure what to expect re: making a repair myself or via a mechanic friend. Already out time and $$ for multi-day car rental, etc. I will also call Chrysler and at least let them know that I am another customer with this problem. I'm sure grateful for all the info here and to know I'm not alone.
  • My 2002 Cruiser has a hole in the high pressure hose connecting the condenser and compressor. My repairman's efforts to secure a replacement part have proved fruitless; his supplier can only find four in the country and those dealers won't sell them. Does anyone have any good leads on where I can look for this hose? Thanks!
  • voxxyvoxxy Posts: 2
    Update: AAA diagnosed my problem as a bad cooling fan, which seemed to match what I had been reading here so that was a relief. They said my model ('06 base model w/manual trans) only has a single cooling fan, btw, and not the two that some other PTs have. The part was back ordered 3 weeks, however, so I decided to call an acquaintance who works for Chrysler locally to see if he could do anything. He said that local dealers are not willing to part with these fans b/c they obviously need them for their own customers but he found a few in another city and got one for me.

    Then I called Chrylser. They said they might be willing to consider a goodwill compensation for this repair if I had it done at a dealership. Well, the bottom line is I did that, and they decided to totally cover all parts and labor. This had nothing to do with the fact that I knew a Chrysler employee, either. In fact, he thought I was "screwed" b/c I was past the 36K original warranty (I'm at 52.7K). He was very surprised that they did this for me.

    Chrysler clearly realizes that this is an issue. I think everyone should call them (800-992-1997) and at least report their issue. I was only on the phone a very short time both times I called them and had good reps, too. My second call to them, after the repair was done, was to see if they would be willing to help me with my car rentals, and I'm awaiting a response today. I am still out $500 ($360 for rentals and $140 for Firestone and AAA's diagnoses), but I am pretty happy to not have it any worse.

    Thanks again to everyone who has posted here. You all gave me the inspiration and motivation to see it through to this point, and things have gone relatively well so far despite the time, stress and effort. My A/C is back blowing the cold air it is supposed to now!
  • My 2007 Cruiser is spitting out a cold oderless vapor or "smoke" similar to what you see once you open a freezer or coming from dry ice. The air blows cold but the smoke comes out only when i have been driving for 10 to 15 minutes and stops once I idle. My mechanic cannot replicate it to determine the cause. I have taken it in 3 days in a row to have them figure it out. It is very strange, as if the A/C is too cold but it comes and goes with out any other symptoms. I wonder if I should worry about it or just see if it goes away once the weather cools down. Anyone else experience this?
  • slw22slw22 Posts: 1
    I was having problems with my AC blowing warm air when at an idle. In late June I took it in and they replaced the radiatior fan module. I had to pay the $100 deductible. A few weeks later I started having more problems. A lot like what is being described above. AC works on and off and sometimes I have vapor coming out of the vent. I took it to the dealer and they can not figure out what is wrong. They want me to leave the car all day but I can not do that because I have no other means of transportation. Now my AC is not working at all. When I called the dealership they pretty much told me I have to leave my car. I asked what am I suppose to do to get to work? They basically told me nothing they could do about it. I called Chrysler and was told they could not give me a rental unless they know what the problem is. Well since they can not even figure out the problem what am I suppose to do? So basically they are telling me to bad. Last time I buy from Chrysler. No wonder they are having such bad times.
  • After chasing my tail and the web I found that removing the LOW SPEED FAN RELAY FUSE Located under the hood in the Power Center Fuse box is a simple way to Not only diagnose if the Fan is working but it Will make the AC work properly. HOWEVER, REMOVING THE LOW SPEED FAN RELAY FUSE WILL MAKE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND STAY ON IF REMOVED. The upside is the HIGH SPEED OPERATION, if properly working will STAY ON ALL THE TIME. The method is before you start the car, pop the hood and locate the Central Power Fuse Box. Check the diagram for the LOW SPEED FAN RELAY(Larger 40amp black fuse) should be on left side nearest end toward BOOSTING POST. Remove the fuse and simply crank the car. The fan should spin with or without the AC on. The engine code will be P0480, Cooling Circuit 1. No spin bad fan. Spinning fan good AC. ;)
  • Would you be able to post a pic that shows exactly what relay to pull? I don't want to wind up pulling the wrong one and cause something else to go out.
  • Yes, but the diagram on the inside of the Power box cover has good details. The fuse is locate on the end with the RED Plastic Positive Boosting Post. Start at that post and look for the first 1x1 Cubic Fuse. Refer to the diagram of the Box Lid, Holding the lid/diagram properly-Readable, Words and numbers NOT upside down is a perfect match to the fuse box itself. Hint: Slightly wiggle the fuse as you pull it out, makes remove somewhat easier. ALSO, the engine Light Will come on, DTC code P0480 Cooling Circuit 1 will remain open allowing the High Speed to run all the time. The Fuse Must Be Put Back into the slot to remove code. If you remove the fuse, it is only a bypass/crossover, I Keep the Fuse in the Glove Box until I fix what I hope is only a new switch on the Climate Control Panel. That seems to be the cause, I took off the AC knob and could simply see a Big Crack running from the Knob Spendle. Check you Knobs, the short may be there. ;)
  • Help 06 p/t 50 amp fuse was blown, engine heating and a/c not working, looks like high speed and low speed relay on right side of fan shroud, no power to either, new fuse did not blow,where does the power go to after ther fuse. help
  • I know the fan plug can be seen from underneath the front bumper, roughly center yourself between the driver side head light and center grill line. Looking up from the ground the plug will be easy to spot on the fan housing. You can chase the wires toward the fuse panel which are aligned with more wires. You may try check the High speed fan relay. Currently my fan runs all the time with NO Low Speed Relay in at All. If working properly the High Speed Relay should overide and cool the radiator all the time. My fix will be a new Heat/Control Panel in the dash, not too pricey on Ebay.
  • :confuse: I noticed yesterday that when I turn on my air conditioner, a gurgling sound can be heard. Later, after a three hour drive, I found that my passenger side floorboard is wet! Also, water can be heard sloshing around when I turn curves. I have no idea what to do about this! My first thought was that water has somehow gotten into my car since it has been raining in my area for weeks, but that just seems unlikely. Any idea what my problem might be?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You may have a plugged AC system drain. The evaporator and condenser remove moisture from the conditioned air and that water usually drains away while you drive. If the drain is plugged or damaged, the water collects inside the system.

    Have a mechanic who is skilled with AC check the drains.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • You were absolutely right! There were leaves all in there, and when the mechanic popped off the hose, he quickly found the problem.

    Thanks for calming my nerves. :-D
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You're very welcome - glad it was just that! :)

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • Is your fan still running with NO Low side Relay in it? Have you had any problems while running like this?
  • My 06 PT Cruiser was diagnosed needing the radiator fan module, will this eventually cause the car itself to break down, or lead to other problems? My car has never overheated, the AC just shuts on and off in traffic, and now that it's getting into fall, I don't even use the AC.
  • when i start the a/c the fan doesn't work,it only works with the engine.
  • That happened to our 2006, but it's not smoke, it's like a a mist. There are times it can actually look like snow is coming out of the vents. We we looked under the hood there is a white icey covering all over the exterior to the AC lines. We still don't know whats wrong. It happened during the summer and figure it will cost a lot to fix, and we don't have the money.
  • 3dpsycho3dpsycho Posts: 2
  • 3dpsycho3dpsycho Posts: 2
    I put my gauges on hi and low ports. Compressor kicks in and press increases on suction and discharge. I here switch on dryer closing and opening. Not sure if condenser coil fan is coming on. Is there a press switch that turns the fan on? Also as the press increases the engine starts to strain. Car is in park. System been vacuumed and charged, 1.2 lbs of 134A.
  • teedaladiteedaladi Posts: 1
    Last year i had problems with my air conditioner, and had to replace the fan which cost me over $1200, this year my air conditioner is blowing hot air, I had the coolant check and it was full. I have carried my car back over 4 times to the dealership where i purchased it. After leaving it there for 5 days, i have the same problems. Is there anybody out there that can tell me what to do. Someone mentioned the switch is bad, and i informed them, but they refused to fix it. Please someone reply and let me know what to do.
  • jimwelsh1jimwelsh1 Posts: 4
    Hello. Does anyone know how to bypass/troubleshoot the A/C fan switch and A/C fan relay on a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser? Apparently, it must be a trade secret or something, because I have searched the internet, Chrysler forums, asked for advise on the local craigslist, and nothing. Not even a whisper of advise. Oh, sure, the dealers and local repair shops will do it, only if they can replace the whole system, not troubleshoot it like I ask.
    Thank you.
  • aptosaptos Posts: 2
  • aptosaptos Posts: 2
    After running either the heater or A/C for about 30-45 minutes and internal vent door begins to close. I can hear the fan running at different speeds I select but the volume greatly reduced. After an hour off the same thing happens again .
    Are these vent doors operated by vacuum line or electrical drive?
  • bill1786bill1786 Posts: 1
    Sir I agree with you you are absolutely correct i appreciate your suggestion
  • tobor1111tobor1111 Posts: 3
    My ac works intermittently, but mostly it doesn't work at all. I paid to have it analyzed and was told that the compressor clutch module is not working. They said it was $600 to replace and then Chrysler may have to program it. Chrysler would not say how much that would cost. Does this make sense? I can't seem to find out anything about such a module and where it is physically located. Is it part of the compressor or clutch assy? Does anyone know? I would really appreciate any information.

    Thanks in advance.

  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Posts: 62
    edited July 2010
    After three visits at two different repair shops to repair the air conditioning in my 2007 PT, here is what finally worked:

    First, one shop told me that the computer module would need replacement. I did not even ask how much that would cost. Another shop told me that the entire radiator fan and cowling assembly needed replacement. The shop wanted $680 to perform the job. The reason given for the high cost was the $425 price of the original Chrysler part. I told the shop "no thanks" and I found the assembly on line (brand new) for $88. It was easy and fairly straight-forward enough to replace the assembly myself. After replacement, the A/C still did not work. There appeared to be no change in symptoms.

    Next, after more on-line post readings, I paper-clipped the contacts in the Low-Pressure Switch connector that sits atop the accumulator. After starting the engine, I immediately felt ice cold air for the first time in two years. I found the switch in stock at my local Auto Zone for $29 (Santech #MT1191). It was super simple to replace. No freon vacuuming is required - just unscrew the old switch and screw in the new one. The wiring connector easily pulls off and the only tool requited to remove and replace the part is a small crescent wrench or a half-inch wrench. It is a ten-minute job. Within an hour of the paper-clip diagnosis, the problem was repaired and the A/C has been working perfectly ever since.

    So, before you shell out big bucks on other "remedies", pull off that LPS connector, use a small piece of wire or paper clip and short the two contacts in the connector (do not let the jumper short out against the engine or body metal). Then, see if the A/C is working. You may want to take it for a full test drive before you decide. I did make sure that I had a full charge of freon before I tested the LPS.

    Good luck!
  • Hey where did you find the part for $88.00? I took my 2007 PT to the dealership and they told me $800 to fix it!! Said to replace the Fan. And you say that might not even be the problem? My A/C works as long as I am moving but when I am stopped, it starts to blow warm air and the RPM's drop - bog down as sounds like compressor is kicking in and out? Any additional Info greatly Appreciated!!
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