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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump



  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    You also have a fuel pressure control valve on the fuel rail.if this valve goes bad they can pump the fuel back into the tank. It should regulate the pressure from 35-40 lbs, and send any excess pressure back to the tank.
  • richf65richf65 Posts: 1
    My 2002 Ford Taurus recently started having problems starting when it has only been off for about an hour. It starts up, but gurgles like it is not getting enough fuel and then dies. I can wait a few hours and it starts fine with no issues. Is this the fuel pump going bad or something else. It seems like if it was the fuel pump, it would die while driving.
  • Are you still available for info?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    edited October 2010
    WHAT KIND OF PROBLEM ARE YOU HAVING ? If eng is hard to start when hot, it is most likely that the eng is being flooded with fuel while sittng after you shut off eng. get a fuel pressure gauge ( you should be able to get a loaner at Auto-Zone ) connect it to fuel rail, bring up eng to operateing temp, shut off eng and watch the fuel gage and see what it reads, it should retain running fuel pressure. if pressure drops down, you may have an injector leaking fuel into a cylinder when shut down. Also, there is a check valve in the fuel pump and it could be leaking pressure back into tank.
    Run these tests and let me know.
  • I’ve encounter this problem before, it gurgles like that. And golferric’s suggestion is right. I thought I needed to replace a lot of my ford taurus parts,but a friend told me that my injector might be leaking fuel and we’ve done the same test.
  • My 2001 Taurus has no ground to the fuel pump relay coil.
    Has power to the contactor and if jumperd fuel pump will run.
    Question: does the computer control the ground to the fuel pump relay?
    Is it ok to add ground? Is the fuel pump supposed to run all the time when power is on? it does when I jumper it.

    Thanks in advance,
  • You should Not run a seperate ground to the relay.
    If I remember correctly, look in the fuse box under the hood, you should find 2 small black diodes, i think they are towards the front a box. 1 of these diodes is for the fuel pump, the other is for ??? Try switching these 2 diodes and see if this fixes your fuel pump relay ground problem, if it does, buy a new diode and WALA.
    Also, check the crash cut out to the fuel pump, I think it's located in the R. inner
    kick panel. Make sure the button plunger is pushed all the way down, it will be a red button.
    Keep me posted
  • 2bef2bef Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Taurus (approx 130K mi) and my fuel pump is acting up. It does not consistently come on for the 2-3 seconds necessary when starting the engine. Most of the time when it's acting up, it will finally kick in if I keep turning the key off and on. This morning it never kicked in. When I got home tonight it still did not kick in and finally the battery started to run down. I hooked up my battery charger and after a few minutes I tried it again. The 2nd time I turned the key on, the pump kicked in and it started right up.

    After a hundred or so attempts this morning and tonight with no success, the logical conclusion (well, logical for me anyway) is that the extra juice from the charger made the difference. Isn't 12 volts, 12 volts? If there were enough amps to keep turning the engine over I've got to believe there were enough amps to make the fuel pump kick in, right? I'm looking for some hints/suggestions. Even at auto zone the fuel pump assembly is $270. I'm broke and can't really afford spend that kind of money unless I'm really sure that will fix the problem. Is there a sure fire way to know the fuel pump is bad or going bad? Any assistance, thoughts, prayers, etc. is greatly appreciated.
  • I've been following this thread trying to figure out what to do next. The '94 Taurus we just picked up just suddenly wouldn't start; it cranks and there is spark but it won"t turnover. I'm trying to do all I can do before I have to drop the tank. How do I find this 'relay' I hear talked about, I don"t see anything in the fuse box designated for the fuel pump.
  • Your fuel pump relay is located in the under hood fuse box, it should show it in your owner's manual. BUT first, Get in a totally quiet location, door closed, seat belt on,
    radio off, Turn the key to the RUN pos. You should hear a low hum noise for 2-3 sec.
    then it stops. If you hear this, then the relay and the pump are working. Do this then let me know what you find.
  • yes, I did hear something that quit after a moment or two.
  • So if the fuel pump works, since I did hear the hum, is there something else between the fuel line and the injectors that could be the problem? Other than hearing the hum is there another test to insure that the pump is working?
  • So did anyone figure out the answer to this one because i have the same exact issue going on now.
  • What in detail is the problem with your car ?
  • alnmaralnmar Posts: 6
    edited December 2010
    I have switched the diodes in the fuse box this morning and the noise test worked and the car started. I ran my car for 30 minutes and shut it off. I tried to restart car and the car tried to start but then just didn't turn over. I waited for a while and bought two new diodes and I didNt hear the pump when key was in the run position. I haven't looked for the shutoff in the right kick panel. I was wondering if with the new diodes after running the car today and it not restarting what other checks I can do because I don't believe the fuel pump is bad. Or at least I hope. Any help would be appreciated. Cliff where you at buddy?
  • Hey a thought, Think of the diode as a 1 way check valve, current will only flow in 1 direction. So turn the diode 180* and reinstall.Do that 1 at a time and listen for the pump running. Then let me know.
  • I gave the diodes the quick look but am unable to turn the diodes in a180" direction because the connections are predetermined. Unable to turn. I just find it weird after reading all the other info about the fuel pump. It worked in the morning after a quick switch of the diode but later not at all. I guess my last question before I try and pull the gas tank is what does the shutoff valve look like in the right kick panel. And do you think there may be some sort of short. Also gas level is low possible fuel pump burn?
  • One thing to remember is to keep your fuel level above 1/2 tank. this is what keeps the pump running cool. Now before you condem the pump, you said it ran for 30 min, right? If it did then cut off switch is ok. Have you change or switched the fuel pump relay ?

  • 1 more thought, get a fuel pressure gauge, ( you can rent 1 at auto-zone ) for no-charge. check & make SURE you don't have fuel pressure. Well 1 thing you can check is to remove the valve cap ( which is on the SSteel fuel rail on the top of the eng.) push down on the tire valve stem and stand back and see if it shoots out a stream of gas.
    Let me know.
  • I am going to check the relay and also the gas pressure. Today. I will let you know what happens
  • I switched the relay today and nothing. No start.
  • I was on the forum earlier with fuel pump issues. The original problem seemed to be fixed when we determined that the car alarm anti theft measure may have shut off the fuel injectors, but then the problem reoccurred; the last time it shut off while my son was driving home from work. It sat at home till I had a chance to look at it and when I did it turned over, now it won't again. Is there a way to bypass the anti-theft system or has it been your experience that a fuel pump my have this off & on problem as it is going out? I'm tired of getting it towed!
  • in my experience the fuel pump just started to go on and off while it was dying. I got tired of waiting and i did try every thing imaginable to try and not replace the fuel pump directly. Unfortunatley that is what i had to do to relieve this problem. Really not to bad a job to do if you have a couple of floor jacks and another hand to help. Part is the expensive part I got mine Napa for $300.
  • trose2trose2 Posts: 1
    I have an 02 taurus with 212000miles and recently have had to start replacing parts here and biggest question is, is when im going a certain speed like 30mph and i stay at that speed for awhile it starts to studder and act dumb...also when snow or to much air goes through in the front where the radiator sits it studders to...anyone have an idea what needs to be replaced??????
  • Replace your DPFE (EGR pressure sensor)! cheap and easy $30-40. If you have a OHV-V6 it's just over the back of the intake plenum just in front of fire wall-it's a small thin black box that mounts to back of intake it has a small circle button on top and 2 small hoses underneath and an electrical harness connection on backside (please check Ebay auto parts section and plug in your vehicle-look under emissions and put in egr pressure sensor in search line) This will give you a picture of part! So easy to change and I would almost guarantee that's your prob. I'm in need to change mine (167,000 mi.), 'Cuz it's doing it again after 50,000 mi. on part. Good luck-by the way it's not your EGR valve itself that's the cause so DON'T GET SUCKED IN TO BUYING ONE-THEY ARE $80 and don't solve prob!
  • I have a 2001 Ford taurus and after 130K miles the pump went out in December. My father in Law owns a ford dealership and has run the service dept for 40 years. He put in a Napa pump at the end of December to save me some money. 2 weeks later it went out. Napa warranted the pump but not the labor. Had a Ford dealer here where i live install the new pump from napa. Tech lowered the car down went to start it up, and the pump was shot! Again i paid for the labor. Now we went to pump 3, a ford pump with the warranty. Presto, it worked..... for 2 months then it went bad too. Now at this point, this is the 4th pump including the original. Ford fixed for free. Life was good for a while. Then last week, presto, the pump goes out again!!!!!!! Ford, the dealership and me are all unhappy. Car did 130K on the first pump and now the car has been driven a total of 10 miles a day for 3 months and we are working on pump 5. If it just tunrs over, its the pump. Mine would always start cold but not once it warmed up before it went totally out. Each one of my pumps died while the car was running. Once on the road and the rest in my driveway. Driveway is sloped so the pump has to work harder to pump the fuel. Half a tank will definitely help keep the pump going but ALWAYS get the ford pump that comes with the labor warranty. I have spent $2000 on this problem and my car was probably only worth $3000. DO NOT GET AFTERMARKET PUMP!. I Hope this helps more people.
  • On my car the gas Gage does not work and it is having the same problems, the only way I am able to keep it from cutting off and not starting is to drive it with my foot constantly on the gas even when I am breaking, I drove it all day yesterday like that, before I turned the engine off I just lightly pressed the gas pedal to the floor then turned it off. The car has started for me every time. My question is do to the gas Gage not working anyways and I am having the same problems is it wise to just go ahead and replace the fuel pump. To my understanding the gas Gage part has broken off and is floating in the tank the next thing to go is the fuel pump? Is this true....
  • alnmaralnmar Posts: 6
    i would just go ahead and replace the fuel pump.... it is a problem with the car it seems and is something that will give you a lot of headaches if you don't replace it soon... as far as how long it will start and stop i don't know, but the diodes under the hood may need to be replaced as well.....
  • Thank you for getting back to me so quickly greatly appreciated, I will also replace what you mentioned under the hood. Again greatly appreciated, you have a wonderful day. I will be sure to come back with any and all questions or concerns if any come up.
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