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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump



  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    You my not get a new gas gauge sender with an after market fuel pump. Make sure your pump has float & rod on it.
    Also forget about the diodes up front, if your car starts and goes down the road, the diodes are OK.
    It sounds like your problem is throttle position sensor. It is mounted on your air intake tube, has two mounting screws, is small & black plastic, with a # of wires going to it.
    A new pump may fix your gas gauge, but it will not fix your running problem.
  • Thank You so very much I do appreciate your time and input on my situation.
    See the thing is I have been questioning my fuel pump because of the fact I can hear it working strong, to me it seems like something is blocking the gas flow. Every sence my roomate ran her (meaning my car) out of gas and kept cranking it trying to start it is when I started having this problem. Tonight I was driving it over to my friends place so we can drop the tank and when I felt her hesitate getting ready to die I let my foot off the gas and coasted down the street with my flashers on and it was like she started zooming down the road again, so i lightly pushed on the gas pedal and away we went, then she like chug chug and the engine light came on I let off the gas and the engine light went off and we drove to my friends house with out her cutting off.

    thank you again....
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Well now, I guess you could have a weak pump but try this first. With key in the off pos. turn off all acc, radio,wipers, blower motor, door closed, and seat belt buckled. Turn key to on pos,
    and listen for a humming noise that last for 1-3 sec. and stops. If it does this, look on your fuel rail for a port that looks like a tire valve, the fuel rail is on top of your eng and is stainless steel, looks like chrome. Remove the valve cap and depress the valve stem with small screw driver, ball point pen or anything you can find. DO NOT have y.our face over this port. It should shoot a stream of gas out of the port. If it dose, your pump is building up ample pressure. If it just dribbles out then let me know, and I'll point you to another area
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    I had a problem similar .......... make sure you have an good ground!! I ran a dedicated ground to mine and it seemed to make a difference.......... also I believe yours also has a fuel return system built right into the pump. By that I mean when there new they will overcome the relief valve on the pump and keep the pressure where it needs to be but after they wear in if its bypassing pressure constantly then it will slowly wear itself out and wont be able to produce enough pressure. I have seen that before so pay particular attention to the bypass thats built into the pump module!!!!!!!!
  • The Fuel Pump makes the humming sound then I checked the valve stem like you said and only dribble comes out its like no pressure at all it seems, Just to add when I took off the gas cap there was no hissing sound either. So is this indeed the fuel pump, I did replace the fuel filter and when we took out the fuel pump everything was intact it looked fairly brand new, with that in mind, why doesn't the gas Gage work? If there is anything else I can do to determine what's wrong please let me know. Oh! One more thing I forgot to add the car sat in her drive way for about 4-5 months because her late husband bought her a 2011 ford taurus, he did start it every other day to pull it from the street to the dive way, if that makes a difference in solving my problem. I bought the car from my best friend last month. She was the second owner, her mom bought it from her best friend in late 1990 with only 15,000 miles on it...any ways if you could get back to me ..... Thank you
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    On your fuel rail, you have a fuel pressure regulator. It is about the size of a very small Dixie
    cup and it has a vac. hose on the top. Do the same test as before, only this time pull off the vac. hose and see if there is any gas in this hose. if so replace this valve. if ithis valve is DRY,
    them your pump may be the problem.
    1 other thought, get a feul pressure gage from Auto-Zone ( rent at no charge ) and hook it up the the test port on the fuel rail. The fuelpump should build up about 40-45 lbs. pressure. If it does your pump is ok, but you could have a fuel injector not holding pressure and leaking into the cyl.
    Do these checks and let me know.
  • johnh7097johnh7097 Posts: 1
    Hi, i have read all of the messages on here and on other web sites about these fuel pump issues on the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. Needless to say i can't believe how many of us have had the same issues and been unable to solve them. As usual Ford will not officially admit their responsibility. I have had the same problems as everybody else, the car runs fine, then one time you stop for 10-15 minutes and the car will not restart. let it sit for 1/2 hour and it starts and runs fine. This happened a couple of times then finally it stopped running altogether one day cold in the garage. I broke down and bought a motorcraft fuel pump, $325, put it in myself, thought the problem was solved, car ran great for 2-3 months, not it stopped working again altogether, no fuel pump run on initial ingnition switch on again, no start. now I have to start all over again, hopefully it will be something easy instead of a bad pump, one thing that bothers me about some of these posts is the guys that recommend runnning a seperate ground wire to the pump. After reading about the inertia switch being on the ground side of the pump, if that is true and you are telling people to run a seperate ground from the pump to under the rear seat to a " good ground " then you are telling people to bypass a very important safety feature of the ford fuel system. If you bypass that inertia switch and something happens to that car in an accident where the fuel pump keeps running and the fuel spills causing a fire and continuous flow of fuel keeps coming out, when Ford Motor Company put in a safety feature to prevent that, and someone dies in the fire, morally and legally you would be responsible for someones death, i know they may never be able to prove the death was a result of this post but your name and e-mail account are attached to this website and you could be drawn into a multi-million $$$ lawsuit, so before you go giving advise on how to disable safety features on vehicles you should think twice about adding wires or disconnecting wires that may or may not involve safety features that are built into cars by the manufacturer. Just my opinion be careful and be safe, fix it right or leave it to an expert, don't half [non-permissible content removed] your wiring systems on your car or you could be sorry, thanks for this website,
  • I replaced my fuel pump did everything I was asked to do and I did not even get 5 miles and the dam thing did it again, only this time 4 to 7 hours later after being stranded it started I got it to Auto Zone where I bought the Fuel Pump asked to Borrow their Pressure Gage only to be told it would cost be $160.00 and when i bring them back the Pressure gage I would get the $160.00 back, now mind you my car was just outside their front door, but no they would not even let me borrow it they would not even come out their with me, I was told they do not do that kind of services along with the check engine light service.
    Any ways do you think this could be a faulty Fuel Pump, my other one I had no problem hearing it this one i have to strain to hear it, and it did not correct my fuel gage problem, I have a full tank and it just started reading 1/2 a tank, it just verys some times it reads a quarter of a tank.
    So far this project has cost me a total of $500.00 parts and labor and I am at my witts end a couple guys that work with me at the Auto Auction we are going to start from the rear and work our way to the front cleaning and inspecting every inch of this vehicle to figure out what the hell could be causing this. It is rediculous that Ford has not come up with a solution to this matter, Seeing that it is a on going problem with this make and model, you would think they would do everything in their power to fix or at least pin point why we are all having the same problem, with the way the economy is today we do not and can not afford being with out our vehicle let alone paying cost after cost to keep doing the same job over and over due to faulty parts and not knowing why this keeps happening to this vehicle. If you come up with any other ideas what may be causeing this problem, please I am all ears.
    If we run into anything I will keep you all posted, we are going to clean, test, make notes of everything that is being done to my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan....
    Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
    Thank You... S
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    As far as your fuel level reading is concerned ............ the gauges in the car are electronic too. That being said they operate within a certain ohm range..... meaning resistance is what the gauge reads. Now there is a rheostat (otherwise known as a potentiometer) that is built into the fuel pump assembly .............. that works basically the same way the thermostat on the wall in your house works by varying the voltage that gets to the gauge. However there are instances where the gauge itself can be bad because the electronics in the gauge do not properly read the voltage coming from the fuel pump. I myself have only seen this a handful of times (maybe 3). So that all said you could possibly have 2 separate problems going on here. Like I said in a previous e-mail you need to make sure that the pressure relief part of the system is functioning properly. You may have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail under the hood. There should be a vacuum hose attached to it........... if the car will start....... remove the hose and see if any fuel comes out. If it does replace the regulator the diaphragm inside is bad!! If it doesn't have the external pressure regulator I would almost have to say the pump is defective if the fuel pressure doesn't fall within specs. IMPORTANT........... make ABSOLUTELY sure that all the connections are good ESPECIALLY the ground!!!!!!!!!! In one instance I had to run a dedicated (separate) ground to the pump along with the one built into the harness........... I dont know why this made a difference......... I can't explain it........... but it did. The only thing that makes any sense is there was to much resistance in the harness ground. Anyway I hope this helps??? Best of luck to you!!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    1. Other cause of fuel pressure loss could be a leaking fuel injector, With everything turned off, radio, heater,door closed, seat belt latched.
    Turn ign key from off to the run pos. listen for a humming noise that lasts 1-2 sec. then stops..
    Does the car run at all ?

  • yes the car does run, only now after i run it for about 4 miles or let it idlel about 20 minutes then it shuts down and I am unable to start it again for about 2 to 3 hours. when it shuts down and i try to restart it, it souds like its not getting any gas, or theres no spark. does that make sence?

    open for anything , thank you guys again...
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    This might sound really dumb but here goes. Is there a hose that is dedicated to venting the tank? If not does the car have a vented gas cap? This could be a simple case of just being vapor locked. In other words if the inside of the tank cant draw air from outside then it could be what they call vapor locking. Try running the fuel cap loose and see if the same problem persists and let me know.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    If you have a FORD fuel cap it is vented to let air into the tank, DO NOT leave your cap loose.
    any excess pressure in the tank is stored in the fuel vapor canister. If you leave your cap loose, it could trigger your check engine light to come on.
    After it dies
    Remove the tire valve looking cap on the fuel rail and see if you get a shot of fuel or not. Press on the valve stem. DO NOT have your face over this valve when you press it.
    Let me know
  • wrenchedwrenched Posts: 12
    Just so ya know Cliff........................ been doing this about 20 years......... and it will not set an immediate code if she loosens the fuel cap for a couple of minutes. It has to have a couple of drive cycles on it before it will set that code. That code is for the evaporative emissions system and WILL NOT set immediately!! I thought this would be a good way for her to determine if its vapor locking once it dies. Ya know........... the car dies ........... loosen the cap.......... see if it starts and runs with full pressure!!! quick easy way to see if its vapor locked. Oh yeah .............. and in the future............ don't come back and make me look like I'm a complete REALLY pisses me off!!!!!!!!!!!!! Been doing this a helluva long time PROFESSIONALLY I might add............ with great success.......... I pretty sure I know what works and what doesn't!!!! Have a nice day!!
  • Well i did all the test with the fuel pressure regulator, checked the injectors and the fuel pressure, everything seems to be working as it should, the only thing that i have not checked is the ground running from the tank, I am getting ready to crawl underneath there and start from the Tank to the front of the car to see what i find, I do how ever need to check the throttle positioning sensor and degrease the rest of the car and around all the connectors because it is nasty I surprised anything is reading properly. My gas gauge is still not reading right however it is reading over a half a tank now.(progress maybe). If you have ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I REALLY APPRECIATE EVERYONE'S INPUT AND HELP...
  • Thanks I have the exact same problem and today it finally gave up the gun even when the car was cold.

    My mechanic said he thought it was the fuel pump also, problem is he says, is the fuel pump is an assembly that has a bunch of other components that costs in the neighborhood of $400.. Will look for a junk yard special or internet special.

    Thanks for the info.
  • coach59coach59 Posts: 5
    Where do you find the ignition modulator on a 94 Taurus. The book shows it as if it's right under the distributor cap but that does not seem to be the case. We're are trying to replace the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and modulator. The plugs also seem particularly hard to get to, especially the one underneath. What is the best way to do this? Do we need to remove other components?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I've been gone for a while, Still having problems ? What have you done &
    what did you find out ?
  • Hi, guys! I used to have a similar problem with my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan, though live in Novosibirsk city. After being stranded several times, I also thought it was a pump: during the tests with pressure gauge, sometimes the pressure dropped to 28-29, and also PCM returned a code 41 "system lean" on daily basis after some 10 minutes of driving) so I have ordered a new pump from Walbro Inc. When it has finally arrived from U.S, I have replaced original Motorcraft's one -- only to find out the problem is still there.. luckily, it got reproduced in the garage, after several cranks and running idle.

    When engine started to about to stall, we quickly started probing all the wires under the hood and near tank to see if any wire makes the difference. Imagine, it was as simple as the plug to the ingition distributor: when pressed, the engine recovered quickly. Looks like one of the plug's pins got oxidized/covered with some corrosion over time, so the solution was basically to switch off the ignition, have the plug out and then back in.
    I think I should have done it earlier because I have seen the codes in memory: 14 (PIP circuit failure) and 18 (SPOUT circuit open or IDM circuit failure). I do advise to replug the connectors under the hood (incl. the PCM one) if you have your engine to randomly stall still.

    The other problem to find out was that the newly installed pump is probably also flawed:
    after returning home happily from the friend's garage 15 miles away, on the very next day, I heard no humming buzz from the pump on the key switch. The wires near the Ford's fuel shut-off switch (in the trunk) were warm. I measured resistance on the switch plug pins and it showed about 1.5 Ohm -- exactly the same value as the installed Walbro's pump had on itself.. So I knocked the fuel tank with a wooden hammer several times, and tried the key again -- barely heard humming suddenly buzzed back? I knocked it again and tried cranking the engine -- it almost did it, but still no go.. If that was a fuse, it wouldn't behave this way i think. But I was told Walbro's pumps are very good? Anyway, it's a public parking near the 9-storeyed block, so I guess they'll have to see my shoe sole more often this week :)
  • she is all fixed and running like a champ, the problem was a loose wire harness connector located underneath the distributor, the ignition module. After locating the bad connection and correcting it's problem, everything seems to be going great, another important reminder is resetting all the trouble codes, I got lucky to have a friend that happened to have the code reader and he took care of everything for me, what we couldn't find in a month he found in 2 days. The only thing is my fuel gauge still does not work. Any suggestions what might be causing that, i almost do not want to bother with that because of how great she has been running, we don't even think it was the fuel pump at all, because my old one was running strong.

    Well if anything else comes up I will be sure to let you know. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, but having my car again I had a lot of things to catch up on and take care of.....

    Best Wishes and If any one needs to know anything let me know and I will do my best to help out any way i can...
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Glad you got it fixed. INFO ONLY- you can clear all set codes by disconnecting your pos. batt cable for 30-60 sec then reattach,and walla, light is off.
    On your gas gage, if you can find the hot feed back to your fuel pump,Not the feed for the pump, but the 1 for your gage, ( it will be smaller gage wire than the pump takes) When you find this wire, have a helper turn key on and watch gage while you connect that feed wire to ground for just a sec. if your gage goes to full than your gage and wiring to it are in Good Cond and problem is most likely in your tank unit.
    Keep in touch
  • I have a 1996 ford taurus GL 3.0 v6 fuel injected It had stopprd running awhile back we had someone drop the tank and put on a new fuel pump when key on I get 12 volts to the safty shut off switch but drops down to zero volts when the clip is in the safty switch when i pull it out and turn the key off then on the meter jumps to 12 volts then backs down to 7 volts its only when i put the clip in that sends power to the fuel pump is when i get 12 volts when key turns on then drops down to zero. The car cranks over but will not start It was starting but now not starting at all I also dont hear the fuel pump kick on. I wonder is there some kind of short in the pump or wires or am i not getting a good ground can anyone help me? thx
  • Check for corroded wiring connector located around the bottom of the dist. Also check the fuel pump relay located in outside fuse box.Find it and swap it with another 1 of the same value.
  • Sounds like the power wire going to the pump from the inertia safety shutoff switch is grounded between it and the pump. I had a similar problem with my 94 taurus. With the key off; take a multimeter and read the wire going from the switch to the pump to ground. You should see about 27 ohms which would be reading a healthy coil of your fuel pump. My guess is you will read much less as your voltage is going to ground. I found that the wiring bundle going to the fuel pump was smashed flat between the fuel tank and the underbelly of the car. I had to replace about 8 inches of wire and it cleared it up. Unfortunately, you have to drop the tank to get to it. Its just a bad design.
  • The other day when I gave my 96 Taurus the gas it was like it was in park. The engine revs fine but it didn't move. To get it to move I had to put it in park, shut the car off and start it again. I was curious what this is because I know I need about $1,200 worth of underneathe work. I really don't want to make payments on a newer car if I don't have to. I know this drives pretty well on the snow and even when we get a little ice because it's a top heavy car. All the others in my price range are way less safe than this one. So please if anyone knows what this is please let me know so I can decide if having it fixed is the best option.
  • so sick of this fuel pump fails again. I heard from a friend that ford made bad fuel pumps for the taurus'. But I've replaced my 4 times already. So done with this. It's too hot outside to have my car not start especially with two toddlers.
    Any after market or suggestions for a different fuel pump? :mad:
  • Four times is rediculous there has to be a logical reason why this is happing. Either there is a electrical short in wiring damaging fuel pump motor or in my case after the new motor was installed they pinched the wiring damaging the replacement fuel pump motor. The car was driving for a long time ok till the pump went out again. One other thing i would change is the fuel relay note: the relay is actually several relays intergrated into one module mine was located on top to one side of the radiator. One other thing the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank needs the gas to Cool the electrical pump to prevent overheating the fuel pump motor so keep at least 1/8 to 1/4 full at all times.
  • Wiring over tank could be pinched OR look for wiring connection around your distributor or running under dist for any signs of green corrosion.
    Problems have been found there also.
  • Hi folks. Im new to this group. Im having a problem with the ladies 2000 Wagon. She ran it out of fuel...After adding fuel...No start. Towed it home, pulled tank and found that when supplying 12V to pump in the garage, the pump ran great. The problem...and what is Baffling me is that when I hooked up wiring and lines under car and turned key...all the pump will do is run for approx 1 or 2 seconds and shut off...HELP!!!!!! Point me in a direction if at all possible..
  • The pump is doing what it should. When the pump builds up pressure it will shut down with the eng off and the key on.
    Find the pressure test port on the fuel rail, remove cap and press down valve with small screwdriver, make sure you DON"T have your face over this valve. It should shoot a stream of gas for a sec. If you have the key on the pump should kick on again.
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