Chevrolet TrailBlazer Electrical Problems



  • trailblazer1trailblazer1 Member Posts: 18
    2002 Trailblazer LT
    For the longest time the drivers side door speaker audio was not working and I had assumed that it had gone out. Then by coincidence I happed to notice the following set of unusual electrical quirks as it peratined to the speaker and the apparent intermittent problem of coming on at extremely low volume.

    The first procedure was to check L-R audio balance. When adjusting all the way over to L, I found that the L side speaker audio level was working but the volume was low to just barely non-existant. - R side was fine.

    This is where all the unusual electrical quirks come into play if and when the speaker works at it's proper volume. It just so happened that I was having 3 separate issues occur when the L side speaker volume would be non-existant or just barely noticeable.

    Daytime Running Lamp chime for on/off operation would not work all the time.
    Chime for leaving the Turn Signal on to long would not work all the time.
    Low Fuel Indicator Chime would not work all the time. (low fuel light works fine)

    The strange thing is that when all the above do work, the speaker comes on and works just fine. The only distinct correlation I've found when everything is working properly is that on summer days when the outside tempurature is 90 degrees or above or the car sets long enough in the heat everything works as it should. During cooler days sometimes it worked sometimes not. Just so very intermittent.

    Have not taken it to a dealer as of yet because I fear it will be a control module or
    sensor of some sort and the cost for the fix will be outrageous.

    Any thoughts would be helpful.
  • leblanc5leblanc5 Member Posts: 3
    how did you resolve the problem. I'm having the same problem
  • leblanc5leblanc5 Member Posts: 3
    i have the same problem after changing a battery. how did you fix it
  • malibukpmalibukp Member Posts: 7
    Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been on this board in a while. I never got my problem fixed, kept having strange things happen. Then, the last time I had it serviced, they had replaced my battery in my key remote. Everyhing was okay for a few days, then that battery went out again (the one in the key remote, for the automatic doors, etc- and it was less than a week old). I just didn't bother to replace that as I figured who cares- and I have not had a problem since. Someone in this thread mentioned that that was my problem, and I think he/she was right. It is slightly annoying to not have that auto lock, but it is a small price to pay for comfort of having a car that starts. :)
  • malibukpmalibukp Member Posts: 7
    Thanks, I think you are right. After they replaced my battery in my key remote, that same battery died like 3 days later. I didn't bother to fix it because it was the least of my problems at the time. Since then, my car has only died once. I think that maybe there is a short or bad connection in the remote that was signalling something to my car that was off/wrong??
    Also, seem to have the problems when it is really cold/wet. Now that we are getting into winter, we will see what happens. I will keep in mind some of the other responses regarding the connectors to the computers being corroded, etc.
  • tamesatamesa Member Posts: 5
    I had my mechanic tear apart the connections from the computer and repair them. :blush:
  • jrcranejrcrane Member Posts: 1
    I am having this same problem. What took care of the problem?
  • ticadooticadoo Member Posts: 40
    Sometimes by left turnsignal will go crazy, sounds like it is getting ready to blow up. When it does this, the actual signal does not work. I have found that it happens when the bulb gets wet or is lose. These trucks need to have major work done to them. What a disapointment!!
  • trailblazer02trailblazer02 Member Posts: 11
    I have the same problem with my LH Driver speaker not working. The chimes go through that same speaker so that's why you do not hear them. If you hold down the sixth preset station button with the radio off, you can set you chimes on loud.

    Once you do this and adjust the sound all the way over to the left, you'll should here a faint chiming when, for instance, you leave the keys in the ignition with the door open. So the chimes do work.

    I am guessing mine is a bad speaker connection or blow speaker?
  • poppy12poppy12 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, i need HELP! The passenger side of my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer does not work! The power window, door locks and interior light does not work, but only on the passenger side. Also the "service engine light" has recently came on and stays on constantly. I thought maybe I had a blown fuse so I stopped by one of the many auto parts store here in Tupelo and was going to have a diagnostics ran on it by hooking it up to the computer under the dash drivers side. However, the diagnostic machine would not read anything! The tech at the parts store told me I had a blown fuse, thats why my passenger side dosen't work and that same fuse powers the computer. Is that true? Whats the deal? Can u please help me?
  • ticadooticadoo Member Posts: 40
    All I can say is good luck. I've had my 03 Trailblazer at so many shops I have lost count. Nobody can fix the electrical problems; nobody can tell me why the "service engine" light is on.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    No it's not true. For the problem you describe I would look for a loose or faulty connector in the wiring harness that connects the passenger side systems to the main harness.
    For the check engine light, the first place to look is always at the fuel cap. Is it on straight? Is it snugged down? Does the rubber seal in the cap have cracks in it like ours did? I wiped a little thick grease on the rubber seal on the cap and put it back on and the check engine light went away in a couple of days. Replaced the cap and no more problems.
  • gianni2gianni2 Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing same problem. My headlights are flickering,dash lights will dim down at same time,also note the gauge to drop below 14 for several seconds. I have replaced the battery and alternator. Any suggestions?
  • gianni2gianni2 Member Posts: 2
    I have been noticing my headlights flickering & at the same time dash lights will dim,also notice the gauge will drop will 14 for the duration. This will usually last several seconds. Sometimes it will only occur once or twice and other times it will persist for the entire ride. I tried going to dealer for computer diagnostic,nothing showed up. I have replaced battery & alternator. Any other suggestions?
  • rpowersrpowers Member Posts: 24
    I have the same symptoms on my "05" - it just started this week and I have no idea what it could be? All of us that have these light problems should bring this to the department of transportation - consumers groups - and GM = this is very unsafe and should not be affected by an out-of-warranty situation --- this is UNSAFE and should be a recall to repar no matter what mileage!!
  • sharv10sharv10 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 05 Trailblazer. It only happens in cool damp temps and I have found that as long as I let the truck warm up for a few minutes it does not do it while driving. I had it to the dealership a couple times but they had no answers as it would not do it for them. I had it to my local mechanic and he thinks it is an issue with the voltage regulator sticking. I agree that is should be a warranty issue.

    I also have trouble with my speedometer not working after a few minutes of driving. Have not gotten too many answers on that one either.

  • bigfigbigfig Member Posts: 35
    I added windshield fluid and when using the rear wiper there is no fluid coming on the rear glass but inside. How do you remove the rear panel to unclog the hose since fluid is coming out but not on the glass and the wiper is working?
  • nutrinomannutrinoman Member Posts: 10
    When the outside temp goes below 5-10 degrees the battery voltage drops to 6.8-7.2 volts which means absolutely nothing works on the vehicle. 45 days ago I replaced a 2 year old Sears Die Hard Gold series battery (an 8 year battery) with a new one. The problem went away for 45 or so days. Last night the temp went to -2 degrees. This morning, the battery read 7.1 volts. I jumped started it, letting it run for 30 minutes. Now it starts fine. I checked with the Chevy dealer I bought it from and they say it is up to date on all recall notices. They also say they have never heard of this problem. After searching the web I find that hard to believe. Previous posters mentioned corroded computer connections. Where is this computer located?

    In addition to the battery issue, I have another with the front passenger door electrical system. Sometimes all the electrical stuff works fine and other times nothing works, mirror adjustment, switch lights, window, and lock. If any work then they all work. I can drive during the night and watch the lights on the switches turn on and off. It looks like a connector problem but I can't find one that seems to cause the problem.

    Any ideas for either of the problems would be greatly appreciated.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    During the 45 days the problem went away, did the temperature drop below the 5-10 degree point at any time?
    I think I would do this, but it depends on your personal level of ability:
    The next time low temps are expected overnight, disconnect the battery. If the battery charge stays up then you have a pretty good idea that the battery is OK. If that's the case then I would suspect some system in the vehicle is turning on when the temperature drops down, or some component is being effected by the cold causing a load on the battery. Under these conditions you could verify it by measuring the resistance across the battery cables. It should be quite high. That's going to be very hard to diagnose, since it only occurs during cold weather.
    If after the battery colds soaks overnight the charge is low (assuming the charge was good before the cold soak), then the battery is likely weak. You need to keep something in mind, just because a battery is new or has a good warranty, that doesn't mean the battery won't fail. Batteries today are shipped wet, which means that they start aging the day they are filled with electrolyte. If they sit around on a shelf for a long while, they may be already old when you get them.
  • nutrinomannutrinoman Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the reply. I had not thought of disconnecting the battery. Unfortunately, sort of, it is not supposed to drop below 10 degrees for the next week, maybe not until next winter.Thanks also for the info on the battery warranties. I just assumed that the statement that battery was good for eight years was truthful. I should have remembered caveat emptor.
  • triumph57triumph57 Member Posts: 1
    My 04 TB just developed a stange electrical starting situation.
    The battery does not have the power to start the vehicle, but the battery tests just fine. I was thinking that ti could be the alternator, but now the battery will not hold a charge when I have charged it--the volt meter shows as low as 9 volts after charging
    The interesting twist to all this is---If I just try to start it normally, it won't start--not enough battery power, the gauges go all the way to far left and the clock on the radio resets to 12:00.
    On the other hand, if I quickly just barely turn the the key in the ignition swith to start and release it, somehow the ignition system sems to dig deep for enough battery power to actually get the vehicle started. The gauges all go full left and the clock still resets, but the vehicle starts--something it won't do if I hold the switch in the start position.
    I am baffled after reading some of the posts here but am hopeful someone can shed some light on this problem.
  • mrfryanmrfryan Member Posts: 2
    I also have an '05 TrailBlazer that just started the same thing. Only when I start it in the morning and when I leave work (After it's been sitting for awhile). The last few days have been damp too. I had the Alternator and the Battery checked and they were both fine. Please let me know if anyone has a solution!!!
  • nutrinomannutrinoman Member Posts: 10
    Just an update. It turns out the problem is not temperature related. I have had the voltage drop overnight a few times when the temp stayed at or above freezing. I have not yet found the problem. One side note to this though... If I put my old Sears battery charger on it for only a couple of minutes I can start the car without problems. When this happens I can watch the in-dash meter go to about 7 volts, hover there for 5 or so seconds then jump right up to its normal position of 14 volts.
  • itagoitago Member Posts: 1
    I am not sure what the problem is but I took it in for a diagnostic and they told me that the BCA need further diagnostic service. But my main complain is that I had changed the ignition fuse for about 8 times noa and it blows out everytime I drive for more than 20 miles or so. I really need help. I was told by the mechanic that did the original diagnosis to take it to a chevy dealer but I want to know first how much it will cost to fix something like this. :confuse:
  • seah1018seah1018 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT LS with 65000 miles on it. The car has recently started acting up electrically, I think. When ever I turn on the air conditioner a set of warning lights comes on and the dash starts beeping. The lights that come on are the emergency brake light, the ABS, the Traction control and the 4 wheel drive train, the air conditioner will not blow except in the back. If I turn the a/c all the way to level 5 the warning lights will not come on but I can not put it any lower than 5. Yesterday I tried just having the rear air on rear control and the same thing happened, the lights came on and the beeping began. This has been happening off and on for a few weeks, never with the rear air control until yesterday. Does anyone have any suggestions? I tried unplugging the battery for 20 min to reset the fuse but the problem persists. Thanks :mad:
  • ajscott19ajscott19 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2005 Trailblazer and about 9 months after I bought it I was driving at night and my volt meter dropped causing my dash lights, head lights and tail lights to flash like a strobe light. After it started it seemed that every other day it was doing it and would not stop until I pulled over and re started it. I took it to the dealer I bought it from and they replaced the altenator, a week after it was replaced the same problem occured so I brought it back and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. As soon as I left the dealer it starts doing it again. I decide to take it to another chevy service and they replace the altenator again (I told them that this was already done) A week after I pick it up it starts again so I take it back and they replace the ground fault wire. Again after I pick it up it happens and they tell me they can't duplicate the problem (yeah right) By this time I am so frustrated I write chevy and explain everything in which they set me up an appt. at a chevy dealer which is for tomorrow. We'll see how that goes, but I hate my trailblazer and will never buy one in the future. Has anyone else had this problem that they figured out what was causing it?
  • mrfryanmrfryan Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like you have the same or similar problem as mine. Mine is the secondary air injection pump for the exhaust. My check engine light came on and it read the code for the secondary air system. I replaced the check valve and all was well for about a month. Then my check engine light came back on and my truck started randomly doing what you explained. The Volts would fluctuate back and forth and in the mean time the lights was dim like a strobe light. It would only do it for about a minute and then it'd stop. Turns out the after I replaced the check valve, the actual electronic pump went bad and was causing a drain on the system. They only want some $400 to replace it!!!!!!!!! The dealership said that it shouldn't affect performance of the car, it's just to disperse the pollutants in the exhaust. So instead of replacing the pump, I just pulled the relay for it and all is well (except my check engine light is always on).

    I love my trailblazer... even with it's little quirk. :blush:

    I hope that helps and you figure out what's wrong with yours!
  • ticadooticadoo Member Posts: 40
    My 2003 TB EXT just turned 76000 miles. To look at it from the outside and inside, you would think it was a perfect truck! This has to be the strangest-acting vehicle I have ever had...and I am getting to I am afraid to trust it...but I am stuck...I lost my 2nd job and can't afford to replace it.

    Last week I was coming home from 2 hrs away (family member in hospital)..on the interstate...and the windshield wipers came on by themselves...switch was off and it was NOT raining. This has now happened three times.

    This past weekend, I stopped to get gas (another 2 hr trip), turned the engine off..key was out of ignition, I was pumping gas...kept hearing something..the rear A/C was on and blowing! So, in addition to putting over $100.00 worth of gas in my truck last week (16mpg)...I have all these strange things...

    Two weeks ago I had to replace the water pump..$400.00. Now, when I start the truck and get ready to take sounds like a jet plane trying to take off. I have people stop and look at me....I guess it sounds like I am getting ready to "speed" off...but I'm not... :mad: What could this be?
  • ajscott19ajscott19 Member Posts: 6
    I took it back and the dealer said the truck was supposed to do that...yeah right! They could find nothing wrong with it, who know's I get the feeling that I will never get the issue fixed.
  • trailblazer1trailblazer1 Member Posts: 18
    It's the dreaded fan clutch!

    Check out all the past threads and you'll find that many of us have had to replace the engine fan clutch. And your right, it sounds like a jet engine.

    Good Luck

  • ticadooticadoo Member Posts: 40
    I've already replaced that too! :mad:
  • nutrinomannutrinoman Member Posts: 10
    The others are correct for the "jet plane" sound. I had it and it sounds like a harrier taking off. Your fan clutch has died. I replaced my own. If I remember correctly the clutch was somewhere between $150 and $200. You have to disconnect the transmission coolant lines and then remove the radiator to give you enough room to replace the clutch. With a friend helping it took us about 1.5 hours to replace it.
  • ticadooticadoo Member Posts: 40
    How long are these supposed to last? I had mine replaced just over a year ago. :mad:
  • jspr363jspr363 Member Posts: 1
    Hi gang 1st time posting. The key will not turn to off position(where you can remove it) it stays in the aux position keeping dash lights on and running down battery overnight, everything else is ok. It all started when the shifting colum was accidentally moved to park while the car was rolling slowly ahead. The transmission seems to be fine goes into all gears and park no problem. What interlock should I look for that is holding that key from coming all the way home? thanks Jon
  • rpowersrpowers Member Posts: 24
    My oil light stays on for 20-30 seconds after the engine starts (05 TB) my brothers 05 is now doing the same thing - both have about 40,000 miles on them, have had oil changes at 3000 miles - no leaks - oil level is perfect.
    Is any one else having this - or has anyone found the cure?
  • lmgranger69lmgranger69 Member Posts: 1
    over the past couple of weeks everytime I turn my car on my clock is back at 12:00. Now my car is having trouble turning over. Why???? :o)
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The battery is probably bad.
  • keithb5keithb5 Member Posts: 2
    05 Trailblazer LS. Headlights dim and AMP meter dives sporatically - most evident at night, of course. Dealer replaced fuse box under hood, but the problem returned a short time later. Dealer then replaced 'faulty' alternator, but the problem returned. I notice the alternator output (AMP meter) falls during hard acceleration, such as when accelerating on highway entrance ramps. When engine RPMs settle after shifting, the problem usually goes away. Faulty serpentine belt or idler pulley? Crappy electrical system? The headlights random dimming at night is a huge distraction.
  • ajscott19ajscott19 Member Posts: 6
    I have been having the same issue, altenator was replaced twice, ground fault wire replaced, now they are telling me they cannot duplicate the problem and Chevy's are made to do that! Yeah right, since when are your headlights, dash lights etc. made to strobe? I've had enough and will never buy a chevy again
  • bigfigbigfig Member Posts: 35
    I have an '03 Trailblazer and one night my low beam headlights went completely out but did have the high beams and drove home using the high beams. In talking with my local Chev. service dept., they suggested changing the relay switch part #1501-6745 which I did and have not had any problems since. I do not know if this will solve your problem but you may give it a try. The relay is located in the fuse box.
  • boatcapboatcap Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Trailblazer speedometer began registering incorrectly during a trip home on the interstate. It progressively read higher and higher speed until the needle was pointing straight down (6 o'clock position). Dealership estimated a $350 switch replacement, but a friend suggested I "reset" the system by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. It WORKED, but I discovered the problem would return every time I used the cruise control. I decided to save the money and not use the cruise. That problem has not reoccurred.
    But since then, my gas gauge has begun registering incorrectly. After a recent fillup, the gauge dropped to empty, setting off the alarm/light. I tried the battery reset trick, but it didn't change. Any suggestions?
  • bainmsbainms Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys... just thought I'd throw my 2-cents in here. Last week I started experiencing a similar issue with my 2005 Trailblazer LT. I work evenings (unfortunately, in a bad part of town) - and upon leaving my shift at 10:30 pm I noticed my headlights (and dash lights) would flicker. They never completely went off, but would pulse or flicker. Initially I thought perhaps I'd hit a rough patch of pavement, and the flicker I saw on the road in front of me was a result of uneven pavement.

    The further I drove on my route home, the more I noticed the flicker - and quickly discerned that there was an issue with my vehicle. As the lights would flicker, my battery guage would pulse or fluctuate. It varied between roughly 11-14... but only fluctuated when the lights would flicker. Immediately I called my dad, who like I - thought it was probably the alternator going out. (Typical symptoms of a faulty alternator.) Luckily I made the trip home safely... but obviously worried because had it broken down in my employer's area of town - YIKES!

    So, the next day - I take my truck into a local shop. They replace the alternator - $480 later (gulp), I'm back on the road. Don't notice anything odd for 4 days. Then LAST NIGHT, the pulsing is back. Single girl, no family for 3 states - and having been unemployed for the last year, immediately I peg the worry meter because even I (with my limited knowledge) recognize that it's probably more than an alternator issue at this point... and honestly, I'm stone cold broke.

    So again I make it to work with the incredible blinking car - and again call my dad. During my shift, he did a bit of research and found the following...

    (I have not confirmed this with a mechanic, nor discussed it with the GM Dealership - but I followed the 30-second idle warm up rule, and drove home after my shift last night with NO issues). Just food for thought... here's what my dad found and compiled into an email by copying EXACTLY what he found in various websites:

    1. Let your TB idle for at least 20 seconds before putting it into drive. This drove me nuts, as my TB had done it from the day I purchased it. Every time I took it in for service, the dealer said "cannot duplicate condition", and sent me on my way. They replaced the alternator, cleaned and tightened all the grounds, cleaned and checked the battery connections, etc. I was finally told about the 20 second idle "fix", and it seems to work

    2. "Some customers may comment that their instrument panel voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their new 2005 model year light duty full size pickup/utility vehicle.

    For 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities, are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system, covered in the September 2004 TechLink. The RVC system allows changes to vehicle voltage, up or down, under various scenarios. Battery state of charge and the vehicle’s present electrical needs are only two of numerous conditions taken into account.

    This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts. By comparison, conventional systems usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts.

    This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and no repairs should be attempted."

    3. Bulletin No.: 05-08-42-001

    Date: March 07, 2005

    Subject: Diagnostic Information on Headlamps Flicker or Momentarily Dim While Driving

    Models:2004-2005 Buick Rainier
    2002-2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer
    2002-2005 GMC Envoy
    2003-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
    with 4.2L Engine (VIN S -- RPO LL8)
    A concern regarding headlamps flicker or become dim while driving may be easily mis-diagnosed. It is very important to capture as much information from the customer as possible. Below is a guideline to assist with diagnostics.

    Verify the customers specific concern.

    • What time of day does this occur (is it light or dark outside) ?
    • What driving conditions (vehicle speed, engine speed, throttle position, etc...)?
    • What was the outside ambient temperature when the condition occurred?
    • What accessories was the driver using when this condition occurred (A/C, heated seats, rear defogger, etc...)?
    • If the concern is at dusk, could it be the automatic headlamps changing from DRL to Headlamp mode and possibly back to DRL again?
    • Are there any other relevant operating conditions?

    Diagnostic Information

    • Service Bulletin - 02-06-03-008A - Info - Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output (SI Document ID #1540541)
    • Service Bulletin - 02-06-03-006B - No Start, No Crank, Battery, Batteries, Generator, Gages, SES, SIR, Brake, Security, Theft, ABS, Hot, DIC Messages, Lamp, Light, Battery and Generator Diagnostic Testing and Cadillac Roadside Service (SI Document ID #1563904)
    • Service Information - Exterior Lighting Systems Description and Operation (SI Document ID #826321)
    • Service Information - Battery Inspection/Test (Non-HP2) (SI Document ID #653410)
    • Service Information - Charging System Test (SI Document ID #1468059)
    • Service Information - Inspect for aftermarket devices that could affect the operation of the system. Refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in Wiring Systems (SI Document ID #816776)

    • Keep in mind high current draw items may cause a noticeable dimming of lights and a fluctuation in the voltmeter may be noted and is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle.

    • For 2004-2005 TrailBlazer, Envoy, Rainier and Bravada with the LL8 4.2L engine only, the Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump activation is thought to be the main contributor to this high current draw condition and is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle. Refer to Secondary Air Injection System Description (SI Document ID #1298539).

    For customers whose driving habits tend to run the AIR pump diagnostic test that leads to concerns with the headlight flickering, if the vehicle is allowed to idle for 20 seconds prior to driving, this should allow the passive test to pass and prevent from running the active test that may dim the lights. The passive test should/will usually pass 99 percent of the time, and by allowing the 20 second idle period, it should almost eliminate the active test. Be sure to check for codes and correct related concerns if this condition repeats.

    Additional high current draw items are rear window defogger, HVAC blower motor, rear air suspension pump along with other components. For easier diagnostics, it may be possible to control or monitor these components with a scan tool.
    It is important to inspect all related connections, grounds and battery terminals for integrity . A loose or corroded connection may exaggerate the concern, and may cause other symptoms. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections (SI Do
  • tmirgliottatmirgliotta Member Posts: 4
    its an indicator which tells you its time for an oil change. It must be re set everytime you change the oil.
  • tmirgliottatmirgliotta Member Posts: 4
    its a bad connection at the battery
  • tmirgliottatmirgliotta Member Posts: 4
    I've had this 05 trailblazer almost a year to the day and haven't had this issue this bad untill tonight. Coming home on the highway it kept losing power and almost stalled out several times. In the past its done it a little but never this badly. Had the charging system tested and they said everything was fine. I'll try this 30 second idle thing but can you reply and let me know if you have anymore problems
  • lpradettolpradetto Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Trailblazer that I've been having problems with the electrical system for a couple of years. At first the emergency lights would go on when the right turn signal was activated. This only happened when it was raining or very cold. Then the dome lights started flashing on and off a couple of times. Last December the battery died and we had it replaced by a local shop, asked about the lights and he checked it out and said he couldn't find a problem with anything. He replaced the battery again in March after numerous checks. We still have the problems with the lights and battery dying. In April we decided to take it back to the dealer ship we purchased it from. They say there is no drain showing on the vehicle but that GM has a couple of notices on the ignition and rear wiper motor cause battery drains, so we have them replaced. We didn't have any more problems until late September, oddly enough when the weather started to cool and get wet. Then the car would not start when the key was turned. Nothing, no clicking, lights, radio or anything. But if I tried again it would start right up. This happened about three times in the last three weeks and we had just decide to take it back in to have it checked out when it wouldn't start at all. This was last Wednesday. We jumped it and it ran fine again. We took it in to the dealership Saturday, explained that we had it in there back in April, what we had done then and what it was doing now. They called on Tuesday and said the battery had a bad cell and that would be the reason for the battery drain. When I asked if that would cause the problem with the ignition not starting at first then starting right up on the second try she said that she didn't think so, but there was nothing about the ignition problem on the work order so he might not have checked it. I asked to talk to the manager we talked to on Saturday when we took it in. I explained to him that I was told that the problem with the electrical was a bad cell in the battery. That the tech was not even told about the ignition. He said that the ignition wasn't the problem, that the battery drain was the major concern, so there was no reason to mention that. After going around with him for awhile he let slip that the battery tested fine on Saturday but that on Monday when they checked it again the bad cell showed up. According to him there is no way that the ignition or anything they did could have caused the break down in the battery. And that it would logical that it might be a problem with the ignition again causing all our problems. But that he didn't‘ want to replace it unless he could tell for sure and there was no way to check to see if it is bad. We are picking it up tomorrow. I didn't have the battery replaced. I'm going to have to take it to someone else. But I'm running out of options, we live in a very rural area and there are only so many repair shops around. Anyone have any ideas about what could cause the ignition to delay like it is and why would the battery suddenly go bad like it did?
    I would like to have an idea about it when I take it back in.
    Thanks, Linda
    And sorry this is so long
  • dilalljwdilalljw Member Posts: 1
    I just had my transmission replaced in my 02 and now my keyless entry device wont work and now the trunk/hatch is permanately locked and wont open, any suggestions?
  • lyferiklyferik Member Posts: 2
    03 chev trlblzr, 4x4, v6. the tacometer goes dead and the truck is fine, it has no instrument lights on, nor any codes pop, the fault is intermitent. i could travel 300 miles and the tac is fine, or i drive down the block and it drops to zero, yet when i step on the gas the rpms go up to what they are suppose to read. this hasent affected any power or performance, but still am worried. i asked the dealership and all i got was dollar signs behind their eyes. i am hoping someone else has had this issue and can steer me in the right direction. i try and do all work myself on my truck, for knowledge and experience. but am desperatly seeking enlightment on this issues. if you can help you can email me at [email protected] thank you.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    you can email me at...

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    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • seah1018seah1018 Member Posts: 5
    You might want to take it to a place that installs alarms such as best buy or something along those lines and see if they need to reset the alarm system or the keyless hand device. That would be my suggestion because when they replace things such as the transmission they usually have to un-do the alarm and what not. I don't know to much about cars but that is where I would start.
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