Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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The best place to start is to go to www.zainobros.com. You'll find a "tips and tricks" page there as well as a page on applying Zaino. Alternatively, you can go through some of the older posts in this topic to find how some of us put Zaino on.
No need to start the whole process all over again with each application. That's one of the pluses of Zaino. After the initial treatment, upkeep us a breeze. Just apply Z2 or Z5 (because you have clearcoat on your car) whenever you feel like it to deepen the shine even more. You'll want to put Z1 Polish Lok on your car once a year or after every 10 coats of Z2 or Z3 just to "tighten-up" your shine.
Let us know if we can help!
Perhaps a question for Mr. Sal?
Thanks.
As Sal has said on his WEB site, using Z1 after 10 coats of Z2/Z3 or after 1 year "tightens" the shine. I put on Z1 every spring, regardless of the amount of coats of Z2/Z3, I "only" have 8 coats on now.
I suppose that if you only want to put 1 coat of Z1 and Z2 or Z3 per year then that would be the right prescription. That said, multiple coats of Z2/Z3 realy does make a big difference in the depth of shine and the amount of protection you'll receive. Even though many on this board have done their own "durability" tests with Zaino with great results, since it's so easy to put another coat on, I do it fairly regularly and always increase the depth of shine with each succeeding coat.
I too am subject to salt and sand used for roads in winter. During the winter months, I visit the local spray wash at least once every two weeks and give a good rinse to the underbody. In the spring, or if the weather cooperates, I do it in my driveway.
I know what you mean. My car looks the same after the raindrops dry. I'm having Z withdrawal here in CT with all the rain. ;-)) The forecast isn't much better for this coming week either. I guess it's okay because I have to order some more Z-5 and Z-6 anyway.
fastdriver
1. Do I polish lock in circles or back and forth?
2. How much pressure do i need to apply when applying wax?
3. Which products do I need to use on my rims?
4. Arew any of the products damaging to glass or a sunroof?" T
Thanks.
I hope some of you veterans will not mind
rehashing a few answers for a first time Zaino
user.
1. Do I polish lock in circles or back and forth?
Z1 PolishLok should be applied in a circular motion.
2. How much pressure do i need to apply when
applying wax?
"Medium" comes to mind; heavy pressure would tend to insure that you're getting more of the product off the applicator, but you have to be careful that you don't pick up any grit in the process and scratch the paint. Watch the paint surface carefully, and look at the product side of the applicator frequently. Too light a pressure would seem to risk not getting the entire surface evenly and fully coated.
3. Which products do I need to use on my rims?
Dawn (or Z7), Z1 and Z2, Z3, or Z5 can be used. If you have it, Z12, the glass polish, can also be used on chrome.
4. Arew any of the products damaging to glass or
a sunroof?" T
The Z12 does have some abbrassive in it, so would tend to scratch coatings that have been applied to one of the surfaces of glass, but not the shading that is within the glass.
Thanks.
Rehashing is not a problem; while the Zaino web site has instructions, suggestion, and tricks, some of the advice we have was not picked up there. One of mine is passing along the suggestion to wash the car with the recommended towel material (hand size) wrapped around a sponge.
I use Z1/Z2 on my rims, too. Works well.
None of the Zaino waxes will harm the sunroof, windows. Z12 is specifically formulated for windows (have not tried it on chrome, though). Wouldn't attempt it on anything else (except as daverose says, perhaps on chrome). I would use Z1/Z2 on the chrome, also
Washing cloth? Kind of small for that. No? I use a 100% cotton wash mitt made in the USA. Seems to be fine so far.
The applicator pad is perfect for applying the Z, but not good for washing. It would take forever to wash the car with that tiny pad. LOL..... Besides, with it's cotton thread stitching, I don't think it would hold up too long.
fastdriver
GREAT idea! Thanks. I never thought of that.
fastdriver
It appears the windows, all but the front windshield, are treated on the outside surface and could somewhat easily be scratched.
Any advisors out there?
Thanks!
Applicator Pads: OK, Ok, I won't use my old pads for washing. That's a good idea 'bout using them for Z-16. After ruining a cotton towel (I cannot tell a lie: my wheel rims did it!), I'm presently down to using an old T-Shirt. And yes, I cut off ALL the seams and edges. It is 100% cotton, but I don't think it does a good job of lifting dirt out.
Any thoughts that would help a newbe with claying would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
How's the durability of Z-16 and what kind of shine does it have?
(Until you feel comfortable in doing it at a speed that won't pull the bar out of your hand or so slowly that you fall asleep or get discouraged, you might want to put a clean ground cloth/shower curtain on the ground in the area you are working and, perhaps, work in clean bare feet to keep the cloth clean. You DO NOT want to drop the clay on the ground or a dirty/muddy cloth and pick up dirt/sand that will scratch your paint.)
Basically, you have a spray bottle of lubricant, soap mixed with water in one hand, and the clay in the other. (I don't advise that you use Dawn as the soap, here; I found that it caused the clay bar to begin separating.) You spray about a 1' by 1' area of the vehicle with lubricant, place the broadest side of the bar down on the lubricant and slide it back and forth with a somewhat gentle downward pressure. The bar should slide around and start pushing the water aside and come in more direct contact with the paint and start grabbing at any contaminants; you might even hear some soft "shussing" as the contaminants are picked up. (The first few times you do this, you might want to slide your fingers in the lubricant before and then after using the clay; you should feel an increase in the smoothness after you clay.) Once you've done that first area, move to an adjacent area and start the process over in the new area. If you use too little lubricant the bar will grab on the paint and kind of "stub."
After a while, the clay will begin to reshape from the heat of your hand. You should also notice "stuff" dirtying the clay; rub your fingers frequently over the contaminated area to remove any visible/"feelable" grit. When the clay is fairly well-soiled, fold the dirty area in on itself and re-shape the bar for further use with a clean surface.
You might want to mix doing horizontal surfaces with vertical surfaces, rather than do the vehicle from the roof to the rocker panels, to avoid muscle fatigue in your hand/fingers. I would do the bottom panels last from back to front just so any brake dust you pick up near the front wheels is the last thing you do. Some advise pulling off a small piece of clay to do the center of the wheels and throw it away when done.
With care, the clay should last through many uses.
I have a one month old Acura 3.5 RL-Black(wife actual thinks it's hers), which I have already used Meguirs Showcar glaze to clean-up the dealer marks and put on a coat of Gold Coat. Before I could put on another coat I found this forum. Since reading the numerous post praising the product I have sent For the Z1/Z2/Z6/Z7 group. I have decided not to clay as I am in Los Angeles, so I know there is not much(any?)rail dust(car shipped into Long Beach).
I expect to have my Zaino by next weekend. Wife thinks that the new towels from Bloomingdales(on sale $7.99) are for her. I may have to get more just to appease her.
Secondly:
My car is a gold 94-Legend Coupe, which until recently has been neglected. It is currently in the body shop having six years of dings repaired and painted. The car clearly needs the entire treatment. When I asked the bodyshop guy how long I needed to wait before I detailed the car, he said I could do it immediately. This seems contrary to what I have read here for a waiting period on aftermarket paint jobs. I would love to get right to the car but I feel I should wait some time.
Any suggestions?
Matt
Do I clay the rims? Thanks
I would say one or two hand towels (wrapped around a sponge) to wash the vehicle (using one towel at a time), a bath size towel or two to dry the vehicle, a clean hand size one, possibly two, to apply Z1 AND the Z5 or Z2 or Z3 (if you're not using any applicators) a bath size towel or two to wipe off the dried polish, and one or two clean hand towels to give the car a Z6 rubdown. AND are you going to do multiple coats of polish before you can re-wash them. So, 2 to 8 hand towels and 2 to 4 bath towels; more is better so you're essentially touching the vehicle with unsoiled toweling. (Don't forget to wash them with liquid laundry soap only, NO bleach or fabric soften, and rinse them twice BEFORE using them. Otherwise you will have a snowstorm of lint! Long-term care is the same.)
I would clay the rims.
Re-washing or applying Z6 depends on how dusty/dirty the car gets overnight. You might be able to just take a clean, dry bath-size towel and lightly drag, not wipe, it over the vehicle to remove any dust, or use a California Duster or similar product to lightly brush over the surface to remove the dust after any morning dew has dried. If the surface does not get fairly clean from this, then use Z6 before you apply the Z2. If you find that your towel from the Z6 application is getting dirty quickly, stop this step and wash the vehicle.
If your vehicle is exposed to the elements 24/7, you'll want to dust it often and use Z6 afterwards some of the time.
I went to few shops to look for car care products and was confused by so many brands and types available.
Today I went to Costco and brought a car kit for $19.99.It contains
Meguiras cleaner wax, car wash, natural shine (for vinyl and rubber), along with Eagle One A2Z wheel cleaner, glass cleaner and Proseries simple green cleaner/degreaser. Also in the pack is a wax pad, brush, mitt, towel and the bucket.
If the above stuff is not right , what should I get ? OR should I buy some additional things along with them.
The products which I’m not comfortable in the kit are cleaner wax and wheel cleaner, also not sure of cleaner/degreaser.
I’m not sure if I got the right stuff and want your help. Also in the store was available Coral blue car wash and Meguiras gold liquid wax. Also how is Ziano and what products I need to get from them ?
My requirement is that I want to wash car every 3-4 week and wax every 4-5 month.
What I understood about car care is first time I need to wash my car with water, then with mild car wash and then apply wax (do I need to polish also before waxing?) What about wheel cleaning and how often .
Subsequent, I should wash my car with water and should wax when beading occurs.
Your suggestions and help appreciated about proper care and right products.
Since you're here at the Zaino topic, I'll limit the post to those products.
Let's start from scratch for your new Accord. I highly recommend you go to www.zainobros.com and see the application techniques and "tips and tricks" sections. Use only 100% cotton, made in USA towels (Fieldcrest or Cannon). Cheaper materials in cheaper towels (namely non-cotton threading) will scratch your clear coat (causing swirls/spider webbing). Get "the Absorber" to dry your car from an automotive supply store (this is a synthetic chamois that does an excellent job in drying your car):
1. Get some "blue Dawn" (yes, the dishwashing liquid) for your first wash (using the cotton towels). This will remove any cheap wax your dealer put on.
2. "Clay" your car. This will get all the "imbedded" impurities out of your finish and leave an ultra clean, very smooth finish ready for waxing.
3. Dawn wash your car again to get any clay residue off your car and remove any old wax that it didn't get the first time around.
4. Thoroughly dry your car.
5. Apply Z1 polish lok in a circular motion using the "polish applicator" that Zaino will give you when you order (tip--dampen the applicator with some Z6 shine enhancer and then put a small amount of Z1 in an "X" pattern on the applicator. Squeeze the applicator to get the polish to spread over the entire applicator. Thin even coats are the key. Reapply the Z1 whenever the applicator is no longer putting any Z1 on the surface).
6. DO NOT REMOVE THE Z1. Apply Z2 over the Z1 in a front to back motion on the horizontal surfaces and up and down in the vertical surfaces. You now have two coats of wax on your car that need to dry. This could take an hour or overnite depending on how humid it is in your area. After they dry together, wipe off with another clean cotton towel. (tip--if you begin to remove the wax and it smears, it's not dry yet...wait another hour. The Z1/Z2 combo should wipe right off with no smearing if it is dry).
7. After removing the wax, mist Z6 on a 2'X2' area and wipe right off with a clean cotton towel. This enhances the shine and makes your finish deep, reflective and very "slick".
Your wheels should get the same treatment as your painted finish.
That's it. This will take you about 3-5 hours depending on drying time and how meticulous you are.
I would get Z7 car wash to wash your car after you finish the above. No need to do the "dawn wash" again or to clay (unless you have some troublesome areas with tar or bugs). Just wash with Z7, apply Z6 after the wash and put subsequent coats of Z2 on whenever you want to deepen the shine. The more coats of Z2 you put on, the deeper your shine will get.
Once you get the 1st coat on, you'll find upkeep to be really easy. Just Z7 wash, Z6 shine enhancer and application of Z2 whenever you want to deepen the shine.
Good Luck and let us know if we can help.
Thanks,
Jeff
You guys have set my expectations pretty high. I'll let you know how it turns out. Could be awhile though, since 112 degrees with humidity is not the kind of weather (it's 90 - 92 at five in the morning and just goes up from there) I'd choose to do the initial, rather time-consuming, preparation & application.
I just wash mine by hand with some dishwashing liguid. They don't come as clean as they would if you were able to put them in the washing machine, but the cotton threads used to sew the seams won't stand up to the washer. Maybe, if you could put the applicators inside something else in the washer maybe they would survive.
fastdriver
Good luck with "Zainoing". Let us know if we can help.
It is rare that one finds any product that works so well and has sterling customer service. I believe that's the reason we are all so positive about Zaino products.
Don't want to put words in anyone's mouth, but I'm certain that other ergular posters to this forum feel the same as I.
DCC
pjyoung: The "small" Z-7 bottle? Ha!
Washing Applicator Pads: I use a small amount of liquid Tide. I rub it in gently, soak, and wash it out manually. Then I let the pads air dry for a few days. They don't seem stiff and are ready for re-use.
BTW do I hv to buy all this z series u mentioned ?how much will it cost and how long will they last (for an av use).
I used the lubricant included in the "kit" and tossed the included polish away. I had also dried the car before claying, as I had not heard prior that it was OK not to do so - the water also acts as a lubricant. If doing it again, I'd still use the ABSORBER to remove most of the water before doing the clay.
SCSOLARA - The Z-6 nozzle can be adjusted by turning the end. You'll find the adjustment requires fine tuning to get a really good mist. You'll also find you still get a few drops along with the mist. If you're getting a stream of liquid, screw in the nozzle end until tight, then slowly back off until you get the desired mist.
I read much earlier in these posts where someone else commented about the misting ability of the "stock" sprayer. They had purchased a plant mister and were using it instead of the one which came on the bottle. Either that, or they just poured the Z-6 into the plant mister bottle.
TO ALL - earlier in these posts, or some other topic, someone gave a great tip for eliminating most of the water left on the vehicle after washing. REMOVE THE HOSE NOZZLE! I would never have believed that using the open-flowing hose end to do the final rinse would have eliminated so much water left on the surface. Try it, you'll agree. To whomever it was that gave that tip, A SINCERE THANKS.
Jim M.
A lot of this is very subjective. I function fine at ten and twenty degrees below zero, and a lot of people who live here in the "Valley of the Sun" function equally well in August. Go figure.
FWIW, but thanks for the input.
The reason we're so "fanatical" about Zaino is because it's the best, longest lasting polish with the wettest looking shine that we have ever seen. I just put some Z-2 on my car the other day, in the bright, hot sun with no problem. Last night when I was out, it rained AGAIN! I couldn't believe it. It's been hard to keep up with things in CT because of all this rain. Anyway, I had to drive home on the wet roads. I put the car in the garage, all wet, where it stayed until this morning. This morning, when I took it out, it looked like I had just washed it! I'll take some pics tomorrow morning to show you the shine.
Even after 2 years, I STILL can't get over that wet-look shine. I can't help looking at it. So, let the doubters and naysayers "harass" us all they want. We still have the better looking cars! ;-))
graphicguy-
You directions were perfect! I have them saved in case you don't. If someone needs them, they can just e-mail me and I'll pass them on. Like I've said before, if they just read Sal's website (http://www.zainobros.com), they will have all the info they need, provided they read them BEFORE they apply the Zaino and not after! ;-))
fastdriver
Thanks for the info. I just went to pep boys and bought the clay magic. I am going to try it on my 5 yrs old Nissan Maxima first before I do it on my 2000 suburban (may be not - start getting lazy).
Desmond
Although my car was already "glazed" and very slick, I used Mother's clay before Z-ing it, and it is soooo smooth it is unbelieveable. I will never again polish a car without claying it first, even a brand new one.
RINSING -
You have the right idea about taking off the hose nozzle, but it works even better with a plastic "fan spray" nozzle. It is still very low pressure, and it allows you to make even a larger "wall of water" as you rinse, so 90% of the water pulls itself right off. Spend $0.99 and try it!
seen on a car and I go back to the 2 part blue
coral treatment.Have one question,I got the clay
bar from pep boys ,I got a few clay skid marks
before I got the hang of claying,I used some
clearcoat polish to remove clay,the z-7 was
working but with much more scrubbing,what's the
best way to get these skid marks off?