Having been a former Gold Class user until switching to Zaino this spring, I think your process ending with Gold Class will look terrific---for about 2-3 weeks. The labeling on Gold Class does not tout its durability, and Meguiar's phone line does not recommend Gold Class if long-lasting shine is your goal. They recommended their polymer-containing products (e.g. Medallion) for best durability on their #800 line when I called several months ago. I think Z2 at least matches the Gold Class shine but lasts MUCH longer & repels dirt/dust better (at least when Z2 is finished with Z6).
In addition to everyone's advice above, I would "dump" the Mother's Clay. I used it once and never again. Out of all the "clays" I've used (Zaino, Clay Magic, Meguiars and Mothers) Mother's is probably the worst. It crumbles and doesn't do nearly as good a job as Zaino clay or, my other favorite, Clay Magic.
If you're going to order Zaino, why not get their clay, too?
If your swirls are minor, I would give Z5 a shot. If the swirls end up being a bit more stubborn for Z5 use, go to 3M foam polish pad.
If you're stuck on Mequiar's, get Clay Magic while you're at the store.
Just curious...what would cause swirl marks on a car besides going through a car wash, which I never do. It sounds as though a lot of you use Z5 but also wash your cars yourselves. So what is causing the swirl marks?
1) Z5 and Swirl Marks - First, other than brefraz commenting that Z5 was "lousy", only jona57 even lightly commented that Z5 does not and can not REMOVE swirl marks. I think it is important to make this distinction. All Zaino products are non-abrasive. Z5 tries to "fill" tiny scratches so that they are less noticeable. Of course there is a visual limit to what you can fill. If you have noticeable marks, you will need an abrasive cleaner or polish to remove some paint down to the lowest level of the scratches. That is the ONLY way to remove them. Z5 is not intended for this.
2) Where do swirl marks come from? Car paint, espcially now that they have to be water-based, is relatively soft. It seems that every thing that touches your paint will scratch it, a little. EVEN pure cotton, sheepskin, etc. If you go to a car wash - scratches. If you use a towel with some poly in it - scratches. If you wipe your car down when it is not perfectly clearn - scratches. Etc., etc.If you use a power washer - scratches! If your wash mitt has some dirt in it - scratches!
Unless it is a show car, always covered and garaged, your paint will accumulate a fine network of tiny scratches. If they are circular, as from wiping or washing the car, they can be called "swirl marks". If your car has been to a car wash or polished by other than a fanatic detailer, you are guaranteed to have them in some degree.
I feel that it is important to follow Sal's wiping advice even when washing or drying the car - up and down on the sides, back to front on the horizontal surfaces. That way when the light hits the marks, they will be less visible.
3) Wash Mitts - After trying many types, I prefer the sheepskin waash mitts found at Costco in 3 packs. When they get dirty, wash them, and toss after a couple of washings.
Another place to get swirl marks - from you washing your car. Living in Florida you find sand everywhere. I use two buckets to wash my new SUV. One bucket is to rinse the mitt before getting a fresh load of suds. I also use two mitts to wash the SUV. One only for the paint, the second only on the cladding. They are marked so no mixup. If one slips and hits the ground, I get a third mitt - the mitt that hit the ground is washed, rinsed, dried and examined for sand/crud before the next use. Another easy place to pick up scratchy sand and dirt are the wheel well edges.
Yeah, it's more work but all it takes is one sandpapery mitt and lesson learned.
Hi. I rec'd an unsolicited e-mail promoting a new comparison. Here's an excerpt from the e-mail:
"52 full-color pages of truth, free of any outside advertising. We unmercifully reviewed 46 waxes and synthetic protectants from the likes of Armor All through Zymol. We give you the skinny on how easy the waxes were to use, how durable they were, and how they performed over a period of eight harsh weeks. The results may be surprising, but they're honest and our reports are not subject to manufacturer influence. What you see is what we saw. What you read is what we wrote. Period. No sugar coating, no looking for the silver lining - just the cold, hard truth.
And don't think for a second that we're going to rest on our laurels - no way, mister. We're busy testing more of the products you want to learn more about: leather care products, wheel and tire care products, glass cleaning products, car washing solutions, performance and street tires, radar detectors, and so on. Equip yourself with the most powerful tool there is - knowledge. Make informed decisions before you spend your hard earned cash on products that may or may not perform as claimed.
Take control of your detailing destiny - go to our website, order the The Wax Test, "Special Report", and then use our website and report as the most powerful ally you'll ever have. Turn darkness into light, knowledge into power - put the Guru Reports Special Reports in your corner...TODAY."
They're charging $20 for this report ($15 for Father's day)...a bit much in my opinion. Has anyone one seen it or know how the various products faired? Also, if anyone has seen it, what was their testing methodology?
IMHO...you have a lot of testers right here that can give you wax advice....FOR FREE! Moreover, you have a bunch of people using products over a long period of time that you can derive benefit from.
Two places you can go...right here in the Zaino category or over to the "Store Bought Wax" category. Plenty of comprehensive help/testing can be found. I can't think of any wax that hasn't been covered in either of these two threads.
To charge $15-$20 for such a "test" is a little nervy.
What you received was a notice of the latest verison of thewaxtest.com (now .org). While thewaxtest.org is no longer free, the number of waxes, polishes, and sealants tested have increased.
I don't believe the e-mail was unsolicited. You probably signed up to receive future notifications of this information some time ago. Thewaxtest.org is only sending announcements to those who asked for it, AFAIK.
graphicguy. I agree...there is a slew of info and advice on both threads. BTW.....I've been using Zaino for over 2 years now.
bretfraz....perhaps you're right....I may have signed up for updates some time ago. Probably just don't remember doing so. Whether it was solicitied or unsoliticited really does not matter to me. I'm just curious what the results were.
Correction to your amusing June 6 "scratches" diatribe - even garaging and covering can cause the scratches. I can attest to this, as my attempt to cover my car this weekend resulted in - you guessed it - scratches from the car cover!! :-)
Car covers come in different "quality" levels. Sometimes you do get what you pay for. This could be one reason for scratches.
I know most people think I'm a fanatic about keeping my car shimmering and scratch free. However, despite what my pics look like, I wash/Z it when I have time and when I feel like it. Right now my car needs a few coats of Z5 and a wash, but I have too many other things to do this weekend. When I get a chance, it will be clean and almost scratch-free again. I don't think scratches can be eliminated completely, but you certainly can minimize them using the proper materials you use.
I tried Liquid Glass a few years ago, including using their cleaner/prep product & following all directions (per my usual car care compulsion!). The result was a very blotchy and uneven shine on my beige Chevy van. I was so disappointed & upset that I threw the stuff away. OTOH- it's still on the market, so some folks must like it.
I've been reading alot about microfiber towels. Quality & cost seem to vary greatly. Some folks seem to swear by microfiber while others (perhaps using inferior towels) claim the polyester in them can leave fine scratches. I've been very happy following Zaino's advice in using quality US-made 100% cotton towels. Why switch if good cotton works so well?
pemarsh: I've used Liquid Glass on my bass boat (fiberglass) and it gave a nice shine. BUT, it was a lotta work to polish out. Used LG that one time - still got the cans sitting in the garage. It's been almost four years and now that I know there's better stuff out there, guess it's time to toss 'em, eh? =;-)
If you use a car cover, you must be sure that the car and the cover are both completely free of dust and grit - even the smallest, or you get . . . . You know! Covers are really a mixed blessing. If I am going out of town for a long time and want to cover the car, I will wash the car and vacuum the inside of the cover before putting it on. Problems will result otherwise.
I have used Pledge for 20+ years on the interiors of my cars, for the plastic, chrome, vinyl, and the wood trim on my Lexus and other cars. I have found that it works great! What is the problem that you see? It is best to spray a little of the Lemon Pledge on a soft cloth, wipe on, and buff with the dry side of the cloth. Maybe you are using too much or spraying directly on the wood?
I did the whole Z treatment on Saturday, and I am amazed. Dawn/Clay/Z7/Z5/Z6/Z5/Z6 to my 1.5 month old Onyx Black Envoy with the Z5 ZFX enhanced and the results are amazing.
The few swirls and scratches I did have are mostly gone after just the 2 coats and the color depth is amazing. I have to admit, I was a little skeptical of the clay bar process at first, but the results shocked me. It felt as if the paint was 'waxed' already.
Lucky me, the Z got its first test yesterday, as it sat out in a typical Midwest thundershower. I get up and out this morning, and it looks as good as it did at the end of the day Saturday,
Thanks to all who post here, it was helpful; not only related to Z but other things like, CA Water Blade, Absorber, etc.
One quick question. I was able to do two coats using about 0.75 oz. Does this seem like I spread it too thin??
Again...WOW!
JAW
P.S. My wife thinks I am nuts for taking so long. We will see how she feels when her car has been Z'd.
Hello all, I was wondering if any of you dampen the applicator(#314) before applying the product. I have tried both a damp applicator and a dry one and the damp one seems to work better. The dry one seems to just soak up the Z2.
jwinky: I use about the same amount for my car and that is after applying 2 coats. I don't think I applied it too thinly either, in fact I think I applied it too heavily since it took lots of wiping to get it all off.
dry also which could relate back to putting too much on. Most likely even if you did put too much on it wouldn't take much effort to remove if completely dry.
Please spray some Z6 on the applicator and work it in before putting Z2 or Z5 on it. The Z6 will stop most of the waste and help you to control the amount of Z you are applying. Z6 (unlike water) is compatable with Z2/Z5. Also, the first time I put Z2 on the damp applicator, I use just a little more by applying an "X" on the applicator, and then working it in. That spreads it out on the surface of the applicator. Afterward, I just put a dime sized amount on the applicator.
obyone is correct. When dry, the residue just wipes off. If it take a lot of effort, it may not be completely dry. Both temperature and humidity are the main factors in drying time. If it is a really, really humid day, I'll let it dry overnight.
I don't think you can put it on too thin. The usual problem is putting it on too thick, which makes it take a long time to dry.
The man is correct: spray Z6 on the applicator to moisten it.
I just did my two-door RAV 4, which is plastic cladding on the lower half. This is a great car to work on because there is no bending over, and there is so little paint to deal with. This car took me about .5 oz, and I think I probably put it on too thick (I'm still new at this.) My other car (Lexus SC430) is small also, and takes a little more, but not much. You don't mention what you car is, but if it's an Explorer or god-help-us-an-Expedition or something like that, you will use a lot more Z. It sounds to me like you are not using too much.
From my limited experience, it seems to me like adding the ZFX also makes the coat dry more quickly.
See- now you know that we ZAINOHOLICS tell the truth. Just wait until you put a few more coats on that Black Envoy! You'll be even MORE amazed. I must be getting lazy in my old age because I can't even IMAGINE Z'ing an Envoy even though the Z is a snap to apply! ;-))
donl68-
I wet my Zaino applicator with water and wring it out real good. Then I apply the appropriate Z product. No problems that I've noticed.
i was reading on the NSX board and there was a test between zaino, zymol(both expensive and cheap zymol) and megu.'s on the hood of a red NSX. the tester was a lifelong zymol nut-he then extended it over 3 months and had independant people-neighbors mostly,i gather, rate the hood on several factors-zaino won by a landslide with zymol coming in sec and megur's didnt even place-a lot of people were confused about its application so there may be many more future addicts on the board soon
I actually tried both water and Z6, as well as a dry applicator. I did the same thing as fastdriver with the damp applicator. I think maybe it just wasn't totally dry, even with the ZFX. Before I knew better I always used Turtle Wax, you can really tell when that stuff is dry and ready to wipe off so I assumed the Zaino would be similar. The Zaino doesn't really haze like I am used to. I guess I just have to get used to using Zaino. It does look great though and I can't wait to put on some more coats of Z.
On the Zainobros website, the Tips & Tricks section suggests : "slightly dampen [applicator] with water or Z6". I use water, others use Z6, and I've also heard some dampen the applicator with H2O then spritz it with Z6. I think the important concept here is that dampening the applicator will help keep more Z2/Z5 on the surface of the applicator (rather than absorbing the stuff into the applicator). This helps in applying an even thin coat & also avoids wasting polish.
I did finally find a detailer in the Chicago land area that uses Zymol...which still pleases me. I dont know too much about these waxes, but from what little I do know, Zymol is an excellent product.
The reason that there are "few" detailers that use Zaino is simple. Detailer make their profits on repeat business. Waxing requires re-waxing every 6-8 weeks. Zaino MAY require redoing every 6-8 MONTHS. Which one makes you more money?
ALSO - until the introduction of ZFX, it was very difficult for a detailer that wanted to use Z to put 3-4 layers of Z on a customer's car for maximum gloss unless the customer brought it back several times or left it several days - both of which are not very likely.
I think that there is at least one smart detailer here in L.A. using Z, others will catch on.
By the way, when I apply the polish to my applicator pre-wetted with Z6, I put it on in a "Z" pattern, seems to work better!
I still think one needs to be very careful when using ZFX. Specifically, it would be safest to throw absolutely everything that comes into contact with ZFX away after a single use.
To reuse the Z applicator, for example, I put it in a large pot with ammonia, water and concentrated Dawn to try and get the applicator clean. (For some reason, no matter how hard I try to get the car completely clean, some dirt gets on the applicator when I polish the car.) I put the pot with applicator on a heated stove burner because that is the best way to keep the water hot enough for long enough to cut through the greasy dirt on the applicator.
During my last cleaning session, the applicator had ZFX/Z2 on it, and to make a long story short, the ZFX combination appears to have bonded in some way with the pot. The pot now has nasty stuff on it that is very very difficult to remove.
This leads me to wonder what ZFX may do to the washing machine or anything else, even the rubber on the auto, that it might come into contact with.
Oh, well, just something to pay attention to when using ZFX. I believe I will write to Sal and ask him about this.
After my first Z treatment (ZFX enhanced) this weekend, I decided to throw the applicator away because of the ZFX. However, I would think it would not harm the tub in the washer, and may even, dare I say, protect it. Most are baked-on porcelain over mild steel, similar to a car (baked-on paint). Just a thought.
I think you could also just wash the pad by hand using Dawn as well. I had very good luck getting the mixing bottle clean without some of the 'warping' side effects others have spoken about here. Now that I have my base coats on, I plan on using non-ZFX-enhanced product each time I put on another coat.
As far as the clay bar is concerned, how many uses, on average does everyone get. By the time I finished this weekend, the first use, the bar is no longer smooth, and almost looks like the bar is breaking down. When I pull and fold, the clay takes on a cratered appearance. Could this possibly be the result of using too much lubricant when I was doing the treatment??
Sorry for the long post. Atoews, let us know what Sal says.
Regarding your clay bar...it really depends on how much "gunk" the clay picks up to how many times you can use it. If I use water/Z7 mix for lubrication, I've been able to use 1/2 a Zaino clay bar for about 3 entire car clay sessions. That means 6 full sessions with the whole clay bar. If your clay bar is cratered and crumbling, it's probably at the end of it's effective life. Don't know what you're using as a lube, but the clay should last longer than just one car application.
All that said, after I do my initial clay routine (usually when the car is new), I only use the clay for "spot" application...like when I get some particularly stubborn "bug splats". I've had the useful life of a clay bar last 3 years.
If you stored the clay in freezing temps (like in your garage in winter), my experience has been that the clay will break down quicker, too.
I've also known folks who use Dawn/water as a lube (not recommended). That tends to break down the clay quicker, too.
I emailed Zaino bros.about what I could use on my walnut interior paneling and Sal replied that I should try Z6. I must admit that I have not heard that one before.
This weekend, I will perform a test:
1) Panel 1 using automophile's recommended process 2) Panel 2 using Zaino Z6.
I tried Z6 on my interior wood and it seems to work fine. I believe I will use Z6 for now on the wood, as it advertises UV protection and my car sits in the hot desert sun, 10 UV rating, for eight hours per day.
However, my car is new. If I had a problem with a drying wood finish, I might use pledge because more moisture seems to be retained in pledge than Z6 once applied to the panels.
Hey guys--I could use some advice! Recently, I noticed that the rubber/plastic trim around the windows of my SUV is fading pretty dramatically. There are areas that used to be completely black but now are spotted gray. I'm wondering if the Zaino Tire Care product will help to fix this problem since the description says it's recommended for all rubber trim parts and has UV protection. Will it help to restore the trim to it's original glory or is this a problem that I should bring to the attention of the dealership and have them fix since it's still under warranty??? Thanks in advance...
On a side note, I just have to say how TOTALLY AWESOME the Zaino line of polishes are. I just applied my 5th coat of Z2 and my SUV never looked so good. The shine is amazing...
Try Meguires "SHINE". Stuff (spray bottle) works better then anyhting I have tried, lasts pretty long too and looks great. Spray on cloth and wipe on and no need to wipe off.
I've used the Zaino "Perfect Tire Gloss" on my rubber trim and weather strips. I'm not sure if it will "restore" your original look, but it sure does a good job. This Tire Gloss leaves a semi-gloss finish rather than a shiny one. But is does clean up and protect those rubber parts with ease. Try it.
I must admit I have not tried Zaino's Tire Gloss (yet) as I have been very pleased with Meguiar's Endurance for tires. I'll probably try it with my next order to Zaino. I do not care for Meguiar's "Shine" product, but I prefer their "Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant" for interior trim & dashboards. One treatment with a quick towel buff leaves a nice matte finish (rather than the glare-producing high-gloss of most protectants). For faded black trim or black trim with tough residue (e.g. tree sap or wax) I find their "Gold Class Trim Detailer" to be an outstanding product. For claying, I have found dilute Z7 (1 cap in a 16-20 oz spray bottle) to be the BEST lubricant I've tried. The Quick Detailer products seem to dry out too quickly & soften the clay into a mess. I have tried Z6 on the interior wood trim of my Chrysler 300M & seems to work well. My only regret from my 1st Zaino order was that I should have bought more Z6!!!
I keep on hearing people say I have got 3 layers of Zaino, or multiple layers, what is consist of a layer?? Z2/Z6 as 1 layer?
If I wash my car weekly, and after every wash, I do Z6/Z3/Z6, or Z6/Z5/Z6, and I have lost count of how many times I've washed my car since I bought it last year. Does that mean I have 20+, or even maybe 30+ layers of zaino on my car??
Well, FWIW, there's not an official definition, but I would count only the coats/applications of polish, not applications of Z6. Sure, there is effort involved in applying Z6, but that adds more to the look than protection for the paint. Additional coats have a greater effect on the level of protection than Z6.
Comments
Jon
If you're going to order Zaino, why not get their clay, too?
If your swirls are minor, I would give Z5 a shot. If the swirls end up being a bit more stubborn for Z5 use, go to 3M foam polish pad.
If you're stuck on Mequiar's, get Clay Magic while you're at the store.
http://www.nsxsc.com/nsexcitement/waxtest.html
2) Where do swirl marks come from? Car paint, espcially now that they have to be water-based, is relatively soft. It seems that every thing that touches your paint will scratch it, a little. EVEN pure cotton, sheepskin, etc. If you go to a car wash - scratches. If you use a towel with some poly in it - scratches. If you wipe your car down when it is not perfectly clearn - scratches. Etc., etc.If you use a power washer - scratches! If your wash mitt has some dirt in it - scratches!
Unless it is a show car, always covered and garaged, your paint will accumulate a fine network of tiny scratches. If they are circular, as from wiping or washing the car, they can be called "swirl marks". If your car has been to a car wash or polished by other than a fanatic detailer, you are guaranteed to have them in some degree.
I feel that it is important to follow Sal's wiping advice even when washing or drying the car - up and down on the sides, back to front on the horizontal surfaces. That way when the light hits the marks, they will be less visible.
3) Wash Mitts - After trying many types, I prefer the sheepskin waash mitts found at Costco in 3 packs. When they get dirty, wash them, and toss after a couple of washings.
Yeah, it's more work but all it takes is one sandpapery mitt and lesson learned.
"52 full-color pages of truth, free of any outside advertising. We unmercifully reviewed 46 waxes and synthetic protectants from the likes of Armor All through Zymol. We give you the skinny on how easy the waxes were to use, how durable they were, and how they performed over a period of eight harsh weeks. The results may be surprising, but they're honest and our reports are not subject to manufacturer influence. What you see is what we saw. What you read is what we wrote. Period. No sugar coating, no looking for the silver lining - just the cold, hard truth.
And don't think for a second that we're going to rest on our laurels - no way, mister. We're busy testing more of the products you want to learn more about: leather care products, wheel and tire care products, glass cleaning products, car washing solutions, performance and street tires, radar detectors, and so on. Equip yourself with the most powerful tool there is - knowledge. Make informed decisions before you spend your hard earned cash on products that may or may not perform as claimed.
Take control of your detailing destiny - go to our website, order the The Wax Test, "Special Report", and then use our website and report as the most powerful ally you'll ever have. Turn darkness into light, knowledge into power - put the Guru Reports Special Reports in your corner...TODAY."
http://www.gurureports.org/
They're charging $20 for this report ($15 for Father's day)...a bit much in my opinion. Has anyone one seen it or know how the various products faired? Also, if anyone has seen it, what was their testing methodology?
Two places you can go...right here in the Zaino category or over to the "Store Bought Wax" category. Plenty of comprehensive help/testing can be found. I can't think of any wax that hasn't been covered in either of these two threads.
To charge $15-$20 for such a "test" is a little nervy.
I don't believe the e-mail was unsolicited. You probably signed up to receive future notifications of this information some time ago. Thewaxtest.org is only sending announcements to those who asked for it, AFAIK.
bretfraz....perhaps you're right....I may have signed up for updates some time ago. Probably just don't remember doing so. Whether it was solicitied or unsoliticited really does not matter to me. I'm just curious what the results were.
Has anyone seen the report?
Car covers come in different "quality" levels. Sometimes you do get what you pay for. This could be one reason for scratches.
I know most people think I'm a fanatic about keeping my car shimmering and scratch free. However, despite what my pics look like, I wash/Z it when I have time and when I feel like it. Right now my car needs a few coats of Z5 and a wash, but I have too many other things to do this weekend. When I get a chance, it will be clean and almost scratch-free again. I don't think scratches can be eliminated completely, but you certainly can minimize them using the proper materials you use.
fastdriver
Jon
Jon
It seems that fine scratches are as much an issue on the wood interior trim as they are on paint.
I've used Liquid Glass on my bass boat (fiberglass) and it gave a nice shine. BUT, it was a lotta work to polish out. Used LG that one time - still got the cans sitting in the garage. It's been almost four years and now that I know there's better stuff out there, guess it's time to toss 'em, eh? =;-)
I have used Pledge for 20+ years on the interiors of my cars, for the plastic, chrome, vinyl, and the wood trim on my Lexus and other cars. I have found that it works great! What is the problem that you see? It is best to spray a little of the Lemon Pledge on a soft cloth, wipe on, and buff with the dry side of the cloth. Maybe you are using too much or spraying directly on the wood?
The few swirls and scratches I did have are mostly gone after just the 2 coats and the color depth is amazing. I have to admit, I was a little skeptical of the clay bar process at first, but the results shocked me. It felt as if the paint was 'waxed' already.
Lucky me, the Z got its first test yesterday, as it sat out in a typical Midwest thundershower. I get up and out this morning, and it looks as good as it did at the end of the day Saturday,
Thanks to all who post here, it was helpful; not only related to Z but other things like, CA Water Blade, Absorber, etc.
One quick question. I was able to do two coats using about 0.75 oz. Does this seem like I spread it too thin??
Again...WOW!
JAW
P.S. My wife thinks I am nuts for taking so long. We will see how she feels when her car has been Z'd.
jwinky: I use about the same amount for my car and that is after applying 2 coats. I don't think I applied it too thinly either, in fact I think I applied it too heavily since it took lots of wiping to get it all off.
obyone is correct. When dry, the residue just wipes off. If it take a lot of effort, it may not be completely dry. Both temperature and humidity are the main factors in drying time. If it is a really, really humid day, I'll let it dry overnight.
The man is correct: spray Z6 on the applicator to moisten it.
I just did my two-door RAV 4, which is plastic cladding on the lower half. This is a great car to work on because there is no bending over, and there is so little paint to deal with. This car took me about .5 oz, and I think I probably put it on too thick (I'm still new at this.) My other car (Lexus SC430) is small also, and takes a little more, but not much. You don't mention what you car is, but if it's an Explorer or god-help-us-an-Expedition or something like that, you will use a lot more Z. It sounds to me like you are not using too much.
From my limited experience, it seems to me like adding the ZFX also makes the coat dry more quickly.
See- now you know that we ZAINOHOLICS tell the truth. Just wait until you put a few more coats on that Black Envoy! You'll be even MORE amazed. I must be getting lazy in my old age because I can't even IMAGINE Z'ing an Envoy even though the Z is a snap to apply! ;-))
donl68-
I wet my Zaino applicator with water and wring it out real good. Then I apply the appropriate Z product. No problems that I've noticed.
fastdriver
That's an OLD test, but I guess it still holds up though.
fastdriver
"slightly dampen [applicator] with water or Z6". I use water, others use Z6, and I've also heard some dampen the applicator with H2O then spritz it with Z6. I think the important concept here is that dampening the applicator will help keep more Z2/Z5 on the surface of the applicator (rather than absorbing the stuff into the applicator). This helps in applying an even thin coat & also avoids wasting polish.
Jon
Zaino doesn't sell through dealers. It's either by mail or through a Zaino distributor.
ALSO - until the introduction of ZFX, it was very difficult for a detailer that wanted to use Z to put 3-4 layers of Z on a customer's car for maximum gloss unless the customer brought it back several times or left it several days - both of which are not very likely.
I think that there is at least one smart detailer here in L.A. using Z, others will catch on.
By the way, when I apply the polish to my applicator pre-wetted with Z6, I put it on in a "Z" pattern, seems to work better!
To reuse the Z applicator, for example, I put it in a large pot with ammonia, water and concentrated Dawn to try and get the applicator clean. (For some reason, no matter how hard I try to get the car completely clean, some dirt gets on the applicator when I polish the car.) I put the pot with applicator on a heated stove burner because that is the best way to keep the water hot enough for long enough to cut through the greasy dirt on the applicator.
During my last cleaning session, the applicator had ZFX/Z2 on it, and to make a long story short, the ZFX combination appears to have bonded in some way with the pot. The pot now has nasty stuff on it that is very very difficult to remove.
This leads me to wonder what ZFX may do to the washing machine or anything else, even the rubber on the auto, that it might come into contact with.
Oh, well, just something to pay attention to when using ZFX. I believe I will write to Sal and ask him about this.
I think you could also just wash the pad by hand using Dawn as well. I had very good luck getting the mixing bottle clean without some of the 'warping' side effects others have spoken about here. Now that I have my base coats on, I plan on using non-ZFX-enhanced product each time I put on another coat.
As far as the clay bar is concerned, how many uses, on average does everyone get. By the time I finished this weekend, the first use, the bar is no longer smooth, and almost looks like the bar is breaking down. When I pull and fold, the clay takes on a cratered appearance. Could this possibly be the result of using too much lubricant when I was doing the treatment??
Sorry for the long post. Atoews, let us know what Sal says.
JAW
All that said, after I do my initial clay routine (usually when the car is new), I only use the clay for "spot" application...like when I get some particularly stubborn "bug splats". I've had the useful life of a clay bar last 3 years.
If you stored the clay in freezing temps (like in your garage in winter), my experience has been that the clay will break down quicker, too.
I've also known folks who use Dawn/water as a lube (not recommended). That tends to break down the clay quicker, too.
His short answer was "No". :-)
Your profile does not show an email address, but if you like and you provide it, I can forward you his response.
This weekend, I will perform a test:
1) Panel 1 using automophile's recommended process
2) Panel 2 using Zaino Z6.
I'll post the results.
Atoews, see my profile to forward Sal's response about ZFX.
JAW
However, my car is new. If I had a problem with a drying wood finish, I might use pledge because more moisture seems to be retained in pledge than Z6 once applied to the panels.
On a side note, I just have to say how TOTALLY AWESOME the Zaino line of polishes are. I just applied my 5th coat of Z2 and my SUV never looked so good. The shine is amazing...
For claying, I have found dilute Z7 (1 cap in a 16-20 oz spray bottle) to be the BEST lubricant I've tried. The Quick Detailer products seem to dry out too quickly & soften the clay into a mess.
I have tried Z6 on the interior wood trim of my Chrysler 300M & seems to work well. My only regret from my 1st Zaino order was that I should have bought more Z6!!!
Jon
If I wash my car weekly, and after every wash, I do Z6/Z3/Z6, or Z6/Z5/Z6, and I have lost count of how many times I've washed my car since I bought it last year. Does that mean I have 20+, or even maybe 30+ layers of zaino on my car??
Am i over doing it??