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Comments
Of course, I pile it on in the fall because you never know when winter will keep you from doing it for a long time. Likewise in the spring to build it back up. YMMV.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
While I've extensively used rotary buffers in the past, I'm not a big proponent of them since a lot more can go wrong using them than the benifit you derive if you don't have any experience in using them.
That said, the ones I used were all more than 3-4 years old and they were commercial grade. If the orbital buffers that are on the market now are slow enough and light enough not to "burn" paint, then you might want to take a look at them. Just remember to apply no pressure to the buffer and let it "glide" over the surface, not allowing it to stay in any one spot more than a fraction of a second (think of just letting the buffer sway from side to side, holding the very back of the buffer to guide it where you want and not apply pressure over the pads).
Other than that, I've also used 3M polishing pad by hand. Works great, but a lot of work.
You might want to take a trip over to Sears or PEP Boys to take a look at their buffers. Get the lightest, slowest ones they sell and make sure they have a handle that's not situated directly over the motor/polish pad itself.
Porter Cable makes several models using the same design with the primary difference being what parts and counterweight are included. Lowe's carries the model 7336 (same machine as 7424) for about $110.
For detailers the best kit I've found is sold at Coastal Tool. Have a look here and check out all the good stuff they include in the package:
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/main.htm?E+coastest
Click on "polishers" then click on the Porter Cable Bonus Kit. I would have included the direct link but stinkin' Web Crossing is too incompetent to parse URL's and won't let us paste one longer than 115 characters. God, I hate WebX.......... but I digress.
For the price the Coastal Tool deal is fantastic. I bought my PC from them and can attest to their customer service.
Short of going to a rotary, a PC is the best polisher out there.
Hope this helps.
Should I just use the 3M swirl mark remover with a pad on an orbital buffer (such as the porter cable one), instead of the 3M Foam Polishing Pad that the stuff is supposed to be used with? Or.. is the 3M swirl mark remover mild enough that a completely inexperienced person such as myself can use it with a rotary buffer and not hurt anything?
Thanks again!
The "secret" to using the 3M polish is to work one small area, say 2 sq. feet until the polish is completely gone, and then move on to another patch. You don't work it for a while and then come back and buff it off later. You press harder at the beginning, and then lighten up as it starts to dry. The foam pad helps to distribute the pressure evenly. Do be careful - this stuff IS abrasive, unlike the Zaino products, and DOES take off paint. I don't advise using it very often. Be very easy on any edges or corners where the pressure builds up - you can get down to the primer really quick!
I believe that you can use any orbital as long as the foam pad fits properly. I would surely leave the rotary buffer to the hands of the experts.
Quickly, wipe off the rain water on top of the drying Z2 layer. Should I blow dry it? No, how 'bout an Indian Anti-Rain dance? Towel, towel, where's that towel! SPOTS, Damn. Stop, let it dry. Dry, damn it! (Note: even in the high humidity conditions, the Z2/ZFX dried quickly.) Solution....After I finished drying the rain water spots, I did let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then (after residue removal) applied a second coat. It was so humid that fog started to appear. So, I let it dry overnight, and after the wipe-down, I applied Z6. The results are actually great. But I did waste about a 1/3 of an ounce of Z2/Zfx.
I've also found that trying to wash out the used ZFX bottle is pointless. The unused portion of Z2 will coat the kitchen sink. It's good that Sal packages three little bottles with every order.
any real risk in using that, over finding the
one for white paint?
It's probably got the different color spout/cap so assembly is more reliable and faster (and less expensive). In the package, you get one bottle with one color sprout/cap containing the ZFX and three empty bottles all with the same color sprout/cap rather than four of the same color spout/cap that may or may not have one, and only one, vial of ZFX in it depending how observant the assemblers/quality control inspectors might be of what is IN the bottles, or not.
I have had no trouble cleaning the bottles, but they do cloud a little bit, which is not a problem to me.
Its funny, when I had a little bit left over (about 1/4 oz.) after the second coat (during the rain storm), I actually was having trouble dumping that little bottle into the waste can. I starting looking around for additional applications. 'Couldn't see wasting it!
If it wasn't raining, I would have done some of the house windows (already did all of the car's windows). Then again, 'how 'bout the TV and computer monitors?
I'm not remebering who the regular is here who uses Z-6 everywhere around the house, but I see no reason not to use the polish on outside metal around the house; the A/C unit in particular.
Now, is it the like-new/well-maintained look you can achieve along with the sun protection, or the aromas that make us want to find other uses for the polishes?
Hope all goes well!
LOL.... I was thinking of you two the other day. I do Z6 my TV screens and my computer monitor. I was on a cleaning streak IN the kitchen- moving the fridge, stove etc. to clean underneath. The top of the fridge was covered with dust also. Yesterday, I thought why NOT Z it!!! At least with Z6, if not Z2. The top and the sides are white metal. The doors are textured. I haven't done it yet because my Z is in the garage, but this will certainly be a GREAT test for Z6! I'll let you know how it works as far as repelling dust!
Getting a new eMAC today. Now I'll have a bigger screen to Z6! :-))))))))
fastdriver
Next weekend Z'ing the new Jetta should be a snap after this weekend!
Again, thanks to all tipsters on this board.
I found the 35mm film canisters hold an ounce of fluid. Any photographer can load you up with as many as you can use. I also found that using high quality, 100% cotton wash cloths damp with z-6 over rectangular foam waxing pads produce better results than wax pads made out of unidentifiable substances.
LOL. I will admit to using Z6 on our TV sets. It actually works. My wife was yelling at one of our cats to get off the dinning room table. Its made of marble, and I'm wondering if a good coat of Z2 will work. I can see the cat sliding now.
That reminds me of an incident two weeks ago just after I finished Z'ing (the 2 coats of Super-Z2 in the rain). My wife was sitting in the car in preparation for her favorite sport - shopping. She was laughing so hard she had a hard time calling me over. It seems that a spider was trying to attach a silk thread to my front windshield to start building a web. Well every time the spider placed the thread end where he wanted it, he would slide down the rest of the Z covered windshield and the thread would not stay attached. We watched the little 'fella try for about 10 minutes (laughing all the time) before he finally gave up.
jphdxl,
How much is a good question. And the answer is "as little as possible". Ok, That doesn't quite help you out. Using those small ZFX bottles, I seem to be able to cover my car with about 1/3 (yep, that's one third!) of an ounce.
I drive a '98 Accord Coupe which probably has half the surface area of your Sub. Again, I first wet my applicator with Z6, use very small amounts of Z2 on the applicator, and apply with a very light amount of hand pressure. Given the size of your Suburban, I'd guess 3/4 oz should do the job. Don't be afraid to use just a little bit. The concept actually works. Just glide your applicator over the surface in long straight strokes. Then overlap with the next stroke. I tend to put a small "X" of Z2 on the applicator and make it last for a complete car panel. My front hood counts as three panels and my roof as two. Give it a try and let us know how you do.
Z6 applications have been excellent after washing car with Z7.
LOL, Gotta love it! Hey, why do I get the crabby old men?
jphdxl,
Aside from cost and drying time, I really don't know of other negatives regarding applying "Too Much" Z (2 or 5). I'm not sure it will buy you additional protection, but it shouldn't be a negative.
Jon
>Looks like I got some of the "new" Z5 it is
>An almost orange Color? Smells the same...
>not white like I have had in the past.. Just
>like Sal, always making it better
-Do I still need to wash with Dawn first, even if I'm claying?
-Do I clay first and then wash the car, or wash then clay then wash?
I can't wait Z my new Passat this weekend!
It's alot of work, but it reassures me that I'm starting with a perfectly clean surface. The better the prep the better the final shine!!!!
Thereafter, dirt & contaminants will not adhere as much to the paint so future cleanings are less work .
Jon
You did not indicate in your question whether you have Zaino on your car now or wax. If you have not applied Zaino yet, then wash with dawn to remove the wax. If you have zaino on there now, just wash with z7, and clay it.
Clay it means wet down a panel with a spray of z7 and water, then wipe the clay bar over the surface of the car. You don't have to rub or push or expend too much effort. Just keep the surface you are working on wet with the soap/lube and hold on to the clay bar tight, because it will get slippery; if it hits the ground, you have grit in the clay and you have trouble.
This takes very little time at all. Less time than washing, probably. Washing afterwards is easy, as a spray from the hose will cause all the z7 to suds up. Wipe off to get rid of any clay residue, rinse again and pat dry with a fluffy towel.
Piece of cake.
If you wash with Dawn first, be certain to thoroughly rinse, or rewash with Z7, the area that will be clayed. I have found that Dawn adversely affects the clay, causing it to form bumps and be hard to work for a while. I repeatedly dunk my clay in the bucket of hot water and Z7 and rub my fingers across the surface of the clay to keep it as clean as possible.
I agree that removing as much from the paint as possible before claying helps extend the useful life of the clay.
For first-time users, I would clay the horizontal surfaces first to get the feel for using clay and a reduced likelihood that if it slips from you fingers that it will fall to the ground. Gripping it too tightly, however, might be like squeezing a bar of soap and it will squirt out. Also the energy/motion/pressure should be parallel to the panel surface, you only want to press toward the panel if you have something visible to work on, like tree sap.
Squidd99 wrote: "Clay it means wet down a panel with a spray of z7 and water, then wipe the clay bar over the surface of the car."
Your use of the words "wet down a panel" could be understood to mean, wet an entire panel, then go at it with the clay. I believe it should be done more like using Z-6; you spray a small area with the lubricant bottle in one hand then work on that small area with the clay in the other hand. So it's a small area at a time, not a panel at a time. You also write that it's important to keep the area being clayed well lubricated and that is right on.
I find clay to be a great "tool."
BTW- If you do you do put Z2 or Z5 on too heavy & get smears, The Zaino web site recommends wiping with a damp cotton towel (NOT Z-6; see Application Tips #6).
Jon
I am thinking about buying the Zaino products, but hesitate only because others tell me it is not a wax and therefore does not protect your car. I would just like honest feedback from a couple of people that have used Zaino for say, 2-3 years. Any problems?
That being said, is there even pluses for using Zaino over wax?
Sorry if these are redundant. Just want to feel more confident before I put anything on my baby (2001 Silver, Infiniti I-30).
Thanks for your replies,
Jim
You have been told correctly - Zaino is not wax - it is a polymer compound. If done correctly, polymers can be far better than ancient wax technology, and Zaino is far superior to waxes in every way:
- It is not organic, so it doesn't break down as fast as wax, and therefore lasts much longer
- It does not "yellow" as it ages.
- The shine is better.
- It gives better resistance to pollution, dirt, bug droppings, acid rain, etc.
- It wipes on and off in minutes, no rubbing is necessary.
- It gets shinier as you add more layers, unlike wax.
- A little goes a LONG way - one small bottle can do 10-12 cars or one car 12 times (or more), so the cost per application is lower than wax.
- Zaino products are non-abrasive, and cannot damage your finish.
- Zaino has developed a complete "System" with several different product designed to provide the best products for all parts of your car.
The list goes on and on. Many people here including myself were wax fanatics. I only tried Zaino after reading about it for a year, and seeing some of the photos of users' cars. Like the others, I will never go back to the old wax technology.
Surely the wax makers are working hard to come up with their own polymers, but Zaino has been doing this for many years, they have a lot of work ahead of them to catch up.
Jimmy says "others" tell him: "...others tell me it is not a wax and therefore does not protect your car." What others are saying is that only wax protects your car. Clearly we all know this is not correct.
Items other than wax protect your car; the question is whether they do a better job. Zaino is far better than wax is almost every respect.
When I started with Zaino, before ZFX, the big drawback was that each coat took 24 hours to cure, so an initial application of about 3 coats would take 3 days to complete, a major drawback. Now, however, with ZFX, you can do 3 coats a day, which I have done several times.
In my experience, applying 3 coats of Zaino is easier than applying one coat of wax, and not only is it easier, the result is optically much better and it lasts 6 months at least instead of just a few weeks.
Where's the downside?
The determining factor is the surface. If it has a rough grain, like a pebbled surface, and a plastic coating, then maybe you want to use Z-16. (See Sal's notes at www.zainobros.com for details.) However, if the boards are smooth and painted with the same automotive paint as the rest of the car, I'd use Z2, etc, and just watch your step. The lower part of the car gets a lot of snow and slush, and you want to protect this area as best as you can. These are made of aluminum probably so as not to rust.
I used to have something like that on my Jeep Wrangler, and even with a rubberized step area, they were slippery in the the rain and snow, and I lived through that.
I hear that Pilot is a great car; I wish I had one to replace my RAV4, but I exceeded my car budget last year; maybe some day . . . .
JimmyJ
There are a lot of people out there that live in the dark ages and cannot accept that something has come along that is better than their pet wax. These people are still listening to cassette tapes and don't trust phones without wires attached. The "other" wax forum is full of them. They will spread mis-information about Zaino whenever they can so their "authority" is not questioned by this superior product.
This is where such foolish statements such as "Zaino can't protect your car because it is not wax" comes from. You will see and hear more of them, so be prepared. We're up to nearly 4000 posts on this forum, and the positive posts are 99+%. Check it out yourself. If you can even find any negatives, you may find that they are the same people over and over again that don't follow directions or that can't admit that their pet wax is over the hill.
You'll hear such mis-leading BS as:
- "Zaino has so many steps and has to be put on in layers" - Yes, but it goes so fast, it is still faster than waxing.
- "Zaino can't remove scratches" - Correct - it is non-abrasive and is not designed to remove scratches. There are a lot of great products that will grind off some paint if you need scratch removal.
- "Zaino is expensive" - Yes it is, but you use so little, the cost per application is actually less than waxes.
- "You can't buy Zaino in stores" - So what? Does it have to be available at the 99 cent store to be declared "good"? This is a "boutique" product, designed for the show car industry. We are lucky to have access to it at all.
- Any others you hear, guys?
Switch to Zaino, Jimmy - you'll be glad that you did, just like the rest of the hundreds of happy Z users here.
Sorry for the venting and long post, but it just irks me to see the Luddites spreading their BS.
Your Infinity is about 2 years old, and is a really good car with a really good paint job.
Take the time to read up, both here and at www.zainobros.com, to learn how to do it right the first time. As noted above, the only complaints come from those who did not revove the wax from their old car correctly or who otherwise did not follow directions.
I would suggest washing fully and carefully with Dawn, then take the (not much) time to clay the car, then apply two coats of Z5 with ZFX. No waiting in between coats. Then apply z2 (no need for zfx, since you have to wait 24 hours after the third coat anyway).
The next weekend (or anytime after 24 hours), mix up some z2 with ZFX and do 3 more coats. That silver paint will shine like the noonday sun.
From then on, you only NEED to apply a coat or 2 of z2 or z5 every 4 or 6 months. With ZFX, you can apply 3 almost as easy as one. If your car is garaged, the Z will last even longer. More frequent applications will just enhance both the shine and the protection.
Throw out your wax.
The Glass Polish does work on the inside of windshields. This product is an abrasive and takes some effort. You have to apply it, work it by rubbing it into the windshield, letting it dry, and wiping the residue off. The residue is not easy to remove. I use Windex to then remove the remaining residue. This procedure, however, will get rid of that sticky smoke and plastic residue film. Some people report good results using old newprint to apply/rub the polish into the glass. It seems that newsprint ink is also a mild abrasive in its own right.
To maintain the inside glass on a regular basis, I've been using just good old Windex. I do use the Zaino Glass Polish about once every six months or so. This approach seems to work.
I'm open to other suggestions. 'Have thought of using an Army Flame Thrower, ant eaters with their abrasive tonges, government surplus acid rain, tooth paste (don't laugh - it might actually work), tape recorded speeches by Leona Hemsley, steel wool, and hydrofloric acid. Not that the smokey film bothers me.