Does your car have the interior air filters? If so try changing them. Also check to see that the drain is not clogged. If your car does not leave a puddle of condensed water while running its probably clogged. That causes the accumulated water to get stagnant.
My wife has a 1999 Accord. We had the musty smell too. However, I believe it was caused in our case bcuz my wife NEVER would leave the windows cracked or rolled down, bcuz she loves that new car smell. Instead, she got a new smell. Since the car is always garaged she finally decided to take my advice & leave the windows partially open & the smell has gone away. This isn't the fix 4 everyone, but I just wanted to share what happened to us.
In a previous post related how got a CEL and a code of 0720, 7 blinks on CEL light when "shorted" and a flashing D4 light. Last week would clear ECM memory and the CEL and D4 would only occur after about the second or third start. Now it does it every time-when shifting from first to second gear. The local honda dealer said it was way too expensive to buy a new tranny or have his guys rebuild it. The only cost viable options being to get one out of a low mileage wreck or have a knowledgeable independent rebuild the tranny. Cost of getting one out of a wreck is around $2K for the tranny and $500 to install.
The service supervisor recommended going to an independent rebuilder and gave me a name. turns out this guy has rebuilt several tranny's for my brother who has a fleet of trucks in his landscaping business driven by kids.
Talked with the guy and and after testing the tranny and making certain the problem is not a speed sensor or something simple will rebuild replacing all clutches, torque converter, speed sensors and the "metal" parts contacting the clutches and a couple of bearings that have failed in prior accords of this vintage. He also replaces the part of the reverse mechanism that gets bent-don't think mine is but he says this is a common problem with honda trannies-particularly if you put them in reverse while going forward or vice versa-never never rock them to get them out of a snow drift. He will use all honda parts and the price for this if nothing else must be replace is $1,500. He gives a 12 month 12K guarantee.
Will ask him about maybe changing the CV boots-maybe just the outboard boots since he has to pull the short shafts. Any other suggestions?
The car has 156K on it and is in great shape other than the tranny. One piece of advice-change the ATF every 30K-check the ATF at least every time you change oil-I do that at 4K. Smell the ATF and look at it. If it appears dark or smells burnt-change asap. Now I will carry enough atf and a funnel with hose to do the change on the road if necessary.
Anyway thanks a bunch Auburn63-will let u know how it comes out. Am going to get all the replaced parts to just see what they look like.
I have 2001 LX V6 with 53000 km on it. It is an excellent car in the way it handles, gets close to 27-29 MPG mixed driving and it came by cheap when I traded in my 1992 Camry LE V6. Only thing I am having tough time is when the car takes off from stop, in the first gear to second gear transition. I can't seem to launch the car smoothly enough. In winter time, the traction control turns on even at giving slight gas. Took it to the dealership and they didn't think much of it. Did a test drive and said the tranny oil was a bit dirty. Would changing the tranny oil make that much difference as the car has still fairly low milage? I think a lot of earlier V6 tranny had problems in this model line and post 2000 V6 tranny were ok.....I am beginning to wonder if some of defective tranny were used to build my car. I am otherwise happy with the vehicle. I am too crazy about the new Accord and their Buick-esqe tail....although 5 speed auto tranny and LCD dash sounds pretty cool.
Price sounds good for what you are getting. The used trans price was real high, glad you didnt go that route, 2k for a used trans, yikes, they get like 1200 around here and they buy it for 600. Anyhow hope all works out for you, good luck..
I'd Like to get a feel for how many owners are having trouble with warp rotors. My EX has 4k on it, and it's not high speed miles or rain splashes. If it's my driving, I'd sure would like to know. Can you put cross drill rotors on to help ? Thanks !
I own an 03 Accord EX-L 4 Door autowith 2750 miles. I keep hearing a very annoying squishy sound from the center console, right by the cd holder and coin holder. i go over less than smooth pavement and it squishes. What can i do to relieve problem???
FWIW, My EX has 4000 miles on it and I just took it for an oil change over the weekend and it's in great condition. It's problem-free so far, but I don't drive her very harshly either. Not that you do - just saying my driving style is rather gentle.
I've had similar problem with my CD changer. It refused to work, then after multiple tries it worked again and then breakes and so on. I went to my dealership and they replaced the unit. So far it works OK.
YES...I am having rotor problems also. At 2K we were in for a replacement console compartment that broke and I mentioned the shaking. They resurfaced the rotors and the ride was great. BUT then about 4000 miles the shaking was back! Took it in at for the 5k oil change to also have the brakes looked at, but, "no techs are available, pls reschedule....arrrhh".
As for driving habits... its my wifes car and she is very gentle on the car.
Is it an aggressive shaking. I may be experiencing it in my 03 Accord V6, but then again I am paranoid. When my girlfriend drove it, she said they were fine, so who knows.
The Accord rotors are very easily warped if your lug nuts are overtorqued. I just bought another Accord last Monday. The first thing I did when I got it was to drive it home and retorque every lug nut to the recommended 80 lbs. Even if you don't want to rotate your tires yourself, I would recommend going to Sears and buying a torque wrench and torqueing your own lug nuts every time you get work done on your wheels, tires, or brakes. Give an overworked mechanic not working on their own vehicle a power tool to torque those lug nuts and your just asking for warped rotors on a Honda IMHO.
I got my 03 accord lx last Oct. I have been experiencing the rattling problem. First, it came from the speaker in the passenger side (below the windshield). The dealer fixed that. But I came back recently. The second rattling came from the driver door window. The dealer said Honda cannot fix this problem. Now I heard some rattling from the back everytime when i drive very slow. The dealer said they checked the brake and did not find anything wrong. These rattlings are so annoying. Does anyone experience these kind of rattling and any suggestion. Thanks.
The a/c on my '02 Accord does the same thing -- the compressor cycles on and off, with the cooling fans, about every 15 seconds. I called the dealer today and they say that the refrigerant has probably leaked out. Good thing it's under warranty -- I'm afraid you have no such luck with your '98.
Otherwise my biggest gripe with the Accord are all the squeaks and rattles from the dash area and front doors. After several attempts to have the dealer fix them I've given up. Fit and finish and assembly quality of this Ohio-built car are unimpressive. Next time I probably won't buy a Honda. My '92 Plymouth Acclaim with 195,000 miles has been to the shop fewer times than this car! Oh well... guess I just got a bad one. I do like the engine/transmission and gas mileage.
I just called the dealer where I purchased my 2003 EX-L Sedan with Navi to ask about a small issue.
The drivers side front door does not align perfectly with the rear door, it sticks out just a little bit, really only noticable when looking in the side view mirror. It does not make any noise and really is not a problem but it is a new car and it seams like it should be a simple enough problem to fix (simply move the stike plate in a little bit, right?).
So the guy in the service department tries to tell me that this is the way the car is designed "at the factory" to minimize wind noise. I asked him why the passenger side doors align perfectly and there is no wind noise from them. He says that he isn't sure but maybe it is because it is a different mirror "or something".
Now back to the subject of this posting...
Do these dealers think we are stupid? The guy was clearly making things up as he went along. Now if I do bring the car to the dealer to have them adjust the strike plate I am afraid they will only make things worse when it isn't really causing any problems as is.
*** Note to dealers and service departments *** Lying to your customers or making up answers to questions instead of actually doing your job to find the appropriate solution will only undermine the customers' confidence in your knowledge and skills and will make them seek service elsewhere.
I will probably leave well enough alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I have a silver 03 V6 and have had the same break problems (graby, pulses very oddly during some breaking, feeling of them always being on). Also, I found a small chip in the paint on my hood very soon after purchasing it. While I know that this can happen on the hood normally, I really didn't recall anything hitting the car with ANY force. Also, since I first asked about this I have seen several posts all by owners of silver 03's. Anyone else having these issues with the paint besides freezeepop, angeral, and myself?
I'll let you know what the dealer tells me about these.
I have a brand bew 03 silver EX-L and have similiar issues. Slight scratches have seemed to appear on different sections, including the front hood. Before I bought it actually, there was a small scratch on the front bumper, which they replaced prior to delivery. IS the Silver paint that weak?
Now, I have written several messages on here about my braking issues as well. They are still very grabby, unless I am VERY soft on them while I stop. I also feel like they are on all of the time, but can't tell if that is the Grade Logic at work or what...does the computer think I WANT to slow down on a straightaway just b/c I let off on the gas? Its not a terrible problem, and I hope it goes away after break-in but still.
I actually like the grade logic, especially when traveling down and incline.
As for the paint, yes I have two small chips on my hood, and little tiny chips on the majroity of the lower hood section. I think its normal because I travel about 4 hours up state every other weekend, and I can only imagine the crap that gets kicked up while on 87.
Also, I was driving today, with the windows down ( FInally its not rain on the east coast) and while I was holding my hand out the window, a pretty decend sized peeble, the size of a pin head, struck my hand. Let me tell you, it was a pretty sharp pain and I can only imagine what will happen when it hits the surface of our paint jobs.
To update-got CEL, blinking D4 light, 7 flashes on the simple code readout and 0720 on a OBDII reader. Went to a tranny rebuilder last night-supposedly one of the best in the area-he got the same 0720 code again and after driving the car with the OBDII reader hooked up and observing the shifting he said the problem was with the either the main or counter shaft speed sensor and that I should replace both.
He said it was fairly rare for clutches to slip in honda trannies but the speed sensors do get out of specs and when that happens-the CEL warning appears cause it is also part of the emissions bit. Ordered the parts this morning and will install in a couple of days.
One more time-check that atf fluid level and change atf using only honda atf every 30K.
Oh called a large junkyard and used honda at's are available for around $500-not the $2k quoted by my dealer-guess he had a boat payment coming up-but he did tell me which rebuilder to approach.
I just installed the Honda-made nose bra on the my desert mist sedan. Personally, I think it looks good. More sporty. My wife is more likely to agree with the ugly as sin statement but, hey, it's my car. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right?
I too have had more paint scratches than I think is appropriate for a new car. My worst scratch is on the hood (through the clear coat) and that one is farther up than the bra covers so the bra would not have prevented it (that rock also hit my windshield causing a small star which I had fixed immediately).
I do think that the paint on the new generation Accord's is less durable than it should be based on my experience and of others on this site.
Anyway, I still love the car and am very happy with my purchase decision.
I thought about getting a bra for my accord, but didn't want the hassel of putting it on and off. It looks a bit dorky as it fades and shrinks and rips with time. Plus with some dust or dirt that gets trapped inbetween the hood and the bra, it probably will behave as a sandpaper. I bought a hood deflector as I had several chips on the edge of the hood. Did some touch up paint to prevent rust and put the deflector on and it looks half decent. It takes 2 screws to undo to wax the car twice a year. It deflects bugs and pebbles well and I think better choice to have if traveling lots on the highway.
I own a 03' Accord LX Sedan. As soon as I purchased the car I could hear wind from the drivers upper window area, as well as the passengers side. I took the car into the dealer and they looked at it, tried to adjust the door(bending it with knee at the bottom and pulling the top). They finally taped up the door and the window, and could not hear the noise. They ordered a new window channel (piece of rubber) installed it and did no good. They said I will have to talk to the manager and see what he will do for me. What is the possiblity of getting a new one? I have less then 4k miles. Or what could/would they do for me?
I also have a silver car, with chips in the hood and on the back passenger door (above where a door ding could occur) they look like they could possiblity be bursted bubbles.
THe other day I was accelerating in my 02 Accord when I smelled smoke. Windows were all closed and a/c was on. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Anyone hear of such a thing. We checked the belts and fluids everything checked out. Oil was about a quart low, just had oil change 1000 miles ago (that is another story!) but they said I am not leaking oil. If you can think of what would cause this please let me know. I am at wits end! This has happened several times since this incident when I am accelerating from 0 to 60. Thanks Annemarie
No way should an accord that new will loose that much oil-quart in 1,000 is obscene. Check it again on level ground-make sure the dipstick is all the way in. Where you park the car for the night-put some newspapers on the ground under the engine-look at them in the morning for signs of oil-sounds like a valve cover leak and it is hitting the exhaust-did you just have it serviced including adjusting the valves-suspect that is the problem if it did loose a quart in 1000 miles. Usually the valve covers leak on the ends in the inverted "U" area. Had and serviced 3 diff accords with over 200K on the clock and none of them ever lost over 3/4 a quart in the 4K oil change interval i maintain.
I own a 97 Accord V6 with approximately 100k miles on it. I recently noticed that at constant speed on the highway or in town the tachometer starts going places, apparently downward to 0 rpm and never over. While hunting, say, between 1000-3000 rpm, I notice no change in quality of ride. When the tach tries to reach to 0 I notice hick ups as if the engine was trying to stall. The problem is intermitent, and from what I saw, it is not related to engine being cold or warm. Two dealers were of no help in solving this issue. Anyone ever had something like this?
The spec for a properly adjusted door is about the thickness of a dime and for the door to be out that much and not flush. Just place a dime on the back door and see if the adjustment is equall to or less than the dime. The reasons given are for debris deflection(less stone chips) and noise, if the back edge catches air it will make noise. If more than the dime then get it adjusted in and recheck it your self and see..Good luck
The vehicle now has 10,500 miles on the clock. The engine is VERY smooth at idle. No rattles in the vehicle. No wind noise. Great acceleration! No exhaust smell. It is a "quality piece of equipment"! I have a "Great Dealer" in New Jersey who does all our "preventive maintenance service". This is our 3rd Accord and our 4th Honda vehicle. We also have a 2000 Civic which is also a great vehicle. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this vehicle! Our last "American vehicle" was a Jeep Grand Cherokee. (The vehicle from Hell)! It lacked "quality", and the "customer service" of Chrysler was "less than professional". Chrysler is the reason why we are Honda Customers today. Since the Jeep, we have owned or leased four (4) vehicles. They could have been Jeeps had we been treated in a professional manner. But Chrysler showed us who was boss, so as such, they sold four (4) less vehicles. ---Greg
This issue is actually not related to my Accord but rather my mini-van. But folks on this board are so knowlegeable & active - so please execuse posting to this board -
6 Mo ago purchased (4) XOnes along with full 12 mo warranty. One just went bad due to (non-repairable) roadside hazzard. Tire dealer readily replaced under warranty - but had to replace with a Harmony. This since X-Ones apparantly are being phased out.
So front axle is 1 X-one & 1 Harmony. Tire dealer says this not a problem at all. Michelin on other hand says it is safety issue. They say must have same type tread on same axle. That would mean buying one more Harmony.
I have had several talks with both tire dealer & Michelin. Get different answers. I'm not opposed to $100+ for new Harmony tire IF it is really necessary to replace in pairs. On other hand, I know they may be forced into an overly cautious positon.
Can anyone provide insight? Not really concerned with handling, noise etc. My concern is safety or (severe) premature wear differnce.
Is it OK to have two different tire tread styles on same axle? Thanks for any insight.
Others here know more than me but my main advice would be in between what you were told. I think it's ok to have different treads on the back wheels, but would not do it on the front tires as you'll have different traction (assuming it's FWD) and possibly a bit different braking - which isn't so good since the front wheels provide more of the braking force. Just a quick reply, sure better ones will come along.
Don't know what board to go to for this but here's my quality of dealer service question. I took my car in on Sunday to have the back passenger side window replaced as it was broken into, to have the glass vacuumed out, the grabby breaks evaluated, and the first service done.
Here's how the car was when I picked it up. In the back seats there were still corn kernel sized peices of glass, many shards in the seats seams, and in the front, grease around the window chrome from the instalation of the new window, the maintanance light still on, and the brakes still squeaking at times and catchy.
A staffer had someone vacuum it and clean the grease spots, and then turn off the maintanance light, but that was only because I got there early enough to still find service people working on their own cars. They didn't even give the car a quick wash.
So here's the deal, I sent them an email the next morning describing my displeasure at the poor quality of work and haven't heard a peep back. For $300 for a window I'd think they could have cleaned up properly. Should I simply learn from it and not go back? Would have liked to establish a relationship with my dealer...
How come you didn't just go to a glass shop to replace the broken window. The service may not have been any better, but at least you wouldn't have had to pay dealer rates.
And as a sidebar, I recently had to take my CL in to have a belt tensioner replaced. Because the part had to be ordered and also due to scheduling problems I had to go back 3 times within about 10 days (which was inconvenient but the dealer was not to blame). But they washed and vacuumed the car every time. Obviously for the second the third visits, the car really didn't need a wash, but they did it anyway. So I thought that was a nice bit of customer relation.
I just checked the website for michelin.com and there's no mention of X-Ones being phased out. It's still listed first as Luxury Traditional tires above the Harmony. Are you sure your dealer didn't want to have to order in an X-One? but instead shifted you to what he had in stock at his warehouse/store.
I'd check with another Michelin source to see if they aren't still available. Offer your dealer the chance to honor the Michelin warranty on the X-One.
Did you contact Michelin: 1-800-847-3435 ( from website). They also have a form on their website for sending email directly to them. I'd ask about the substitution and if X-Ones are being phased out...
The X-Ones are rated higher and have a different tread rubber and tread pattern. I'd want a match. I have X-ones on one car and would replace with same when two wear out. I'd take them over the Symmetry I have on the '03. I think they're a different ride.
Sounds like a tire sales rep lie to me-he just didn't have them in stock. Different tires have different traction and performance characteristics-you might be lucky and have no problems but I would not risk it-maybe a call to Michelin can get them to force the lying tire sales yahoo to make good on that lie. I would think the Michelin people would get steamed over this one.
Be careful out there-do it to them before they can do it to you.
I was told by the Honda dealer that this is normal, that when the compressor kicks on/off, the headlights will dim, as well as the drag on the engine. I think there is too much drag, and i dont ever remember the headlights dimming as much as they do with this vehicle. Anyone else in hot-weather climates (im in Tucson) seeing this ?
Hopefully a simple problem fix here but when I am stopped at a light, I lose brake pressure gradually forcing me to push way down on the brake pedal. I am thinking it is a vacuum problem because the fluid is at the correct level. I have a 1995 accord V6 with 100K on it. Thanks for the input.
I think your brake master cylinder might be the problem. I had that go bad last summer in my 93 Accord EX. The brake pedal would slowly sink to the floor after I stopped, especially when it was really hot outside. Pumping the brake pedal helped. The master cylinder was leaking internally past the seal, which is why I could not see any fluid loss. A new one from Honda was about $100. Good luck.
My wife's 99 Accord also does this. Doesn't really bother her or me. The 97 Accord she had before this also did the same thing. I'm in NYC, it isn't really hot hot, but whenever the A/C is on in her vehicle, it happens.
These cars use a ELD(electric load detector) and the correction to a lower voltage signal happens slower than the need at times for the increase inpower, which is why you see the dim. Completely normal...
Ordered some parts on line from Majestic in RI and they said ship in 2 days-5 days later still not shipped. Anybody know of any reliable online discount honda parts source.
tried www.hondaaccessories.com and got nada-will do a google but wanted to get a referral from someone who has ordered parts from an online source-they-Majestic- said 2 days now it will be at least 10. not good.
Biggest advantage, their shipping is only $3.95 regardless of weight which is very very nice. Also will price match which I had them do ever time hehehe. Over all excellent service. Try them out.
Comments
The service supervisor recommended going to an independent rebuilder and gave me a name. turns out this guy has rebuilt several tranny's for my brother who has a fleet of trucks in his landscaping business driven by kids.
Talked with the guy and and after testing the tranny and making certain the problem is not a speed sensor or something simple will rebuild replacing all clutches, torque converter, speed sensors and the "metal" parts contacting the clutches and a couple of bearings that have failed in prior accords of this vintage. He also replaces the part of the reverse mechanism that gets bent-don't think mine is but he says this is a common problem with honda trannies-particularly if you put them in reverse while going forward or vice versa-never never rock them to get them out of a snow drift. He will use all honda parts and the price for this if nothing else must be replace is $1,500. He gives a 12 month 12K guarantee.
Will ask him about maybe changing the CV boots-maybe just the outboard boots since he has to pull the short shafts. Any other suggestions?
The car has 156K on it and is in great shape other than the tranny. One piece of advice-change the ATF every 30K-check the ATF at least every time you change oil-I do that at 4K. Smell the ATF and look at it. If it appears dark or smells burnt-change asap. Now I will carry enough atf and a funnel with hose to do the change on the road if necessary.
Anyway thanks a bunch Auburn63-will let u know how it comes out. Am going to get all the replaced parts to just see what they look like.
Can you put cross drill rotors on to help ?
Thanks !
As for driving habits... its my wifes car and she is very gentle on the car.
I am disappointed in the brakes.
The a/c on my '02 Accord does the same thing -- the compressor cycles on and off, with the cooling fans, about every 15 seconds. I called the dealer today and they say that the refrigerant has probably leaked out. Good thing it's under warranty -- I'm afraid you have no such luck with your '98.
Otherwise my biggest gripe with the Accord are all the squeaks and rattles from the dash area and front doors. After several attempts to have the dealer fix them I've given up. Fit and finish and assembly quality of this Ohio-built car are unimpressive. Next time I probably won't buy a Honda. My '92 Plymouth Acclaim with 195,000 miles has been to the shop fewer times than this car! Oh well... guess I just got a bad one. I do like the engine/transmission and gas mileage.
The drivers side front door does not align perfectly with the rear door, it sticks out just a little bit, really only noticable when looking in the side view mirror. It does not make any noise and really is not a problem but it is a new car and it seams like it should be a simple enough problem to fix (simply move the stike plate in a little bit, right?).
So the guy in the service department tries to tell me that this is the way the car is designed "at the factory" to minimize wind noise. I asked him why the passenger side doors align perfectly and there is no wind noise from them. He says that he isn't sure but maybe it is because it is a different mirror "or something".
Now back to the subject of this posting...
Do these dealers think we are stupid? The guy was clearly making things up as he went along. Now if I do bring the car to the dealer to have them adjust the strike plate I am afraid they will only make things worse when it isn't really causing any problems as is.
*** Note to dealers and service departments ***
Lying to your customers or making up answers to questions instead of actually doing your job to find the appropriate solution will only undermine the customers' confidence in your knowledge and skills and will make them seek service elsewhere.
I will probably leave well enough alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I have a silver 03 V6 and have had the same break problems (graby, pulses very oddly during some breaking, feeling of them always being on). Also, I found a small chip in the paint on my hood very soon after purchasing it. While I know that this can happen on the hood normally, I really didn't recall anything hitting the car with ANY force. Also, since I first asked about this I have seen several posts all by owners of silver 03's. Anyone else having these issues with the paint besides freezeepop, angeral, and myself?
I'll let you know what the dealer tells me about these.
Now, I have written several messages on here about my braking issues as well. They are still very grabby, unless I am VERY soft on them while I stop. I also feel like they are on all of the time, but can't tell if that is the Grade Logic at work or what...does the computer think I WANT to slow down on a straightaway just b/c I let off on the gas? Its not a terrible problem, and I hope it goes away after break-in but still.
Any advice from you longer owners?
As for the paint, yes I have two small chips on my hood, and little tiny chips on the majroity of the lower hood section. I think its normal because I travel about 4 hours up state every other weekend, and I can only imagine the crap that gets kicked up while on 87.
Also, I was driving today, with the windows down ( FInally its not rain on the east coast) and while I was holding my hand out the window, a pretty decend sized peeble, the size of a pin head, struck my hand. Let me tell you, it was a pretty sharp pain and I can only imagine what will happen when it hits the surface of our paint jobs.
Keep us posted on the status of your brakes.
He said it was fairly rare for clutches to slip in honda trannies but the speed sensors do get out of specs and when that happens-the CEL warning appears cause it is also part of the emissions bit. Ordered the parts this morning and will install in a couple of days.
One more time-check that atf fluid level and change atf using only honda atf every 30K.
Oh called a large junkyard and used honda at's are available for around $500-not the $2k quoted by my dealer-guess he had a boat payment coming up-but he did tell me which rebuilder to approach.
The only viable option I see are the 3m clear bra's.
I too have had more paint scratches than I think is appropriate for a new car. My worst scratch is on the hood (through the clear coat) and that one is farther up than the bra covers so the bra would not have prevented it (that rock also hit my windshield causing a small star which I had fixed immediately).
I do think that the paint on the new generation Accord's is less durable than it should be based on my experience and of others on this site.
Anyway, I still love the car and am very happy with my purchase decision.
I also have a silver car, with chips in the hood and on the back passenger door (above where a door ding could occur) they look like they could possiblity be bursted bubbles.
Thanks
Mike
6 Mo ago purchased (4) XOnes along with full 12 mo warranty. One just went bad due to (non-repairable) roadside hazzard. Tire dealer readily replaced under warranty - but had to replace with a Harmony. This since X-Ones apparantly are being phased out.
So front axle is 1 X-one & 1 Harmony. Tire dealer says this not a problem at all. Michelin on other hand says it is safety issue. They say must have same type tread on same axle. That would mean buying one more Harmony.
I have had several talks with both tire dealer & Michelin. Get different answers. I'm not opposed to $100+ for new Harmony tire IF it is really necessary to replace in pairs. On other hand, I know they may be forced into an overly cautious positon.
Can anyone provide insight? Not really concerned with handling, noise etc. My concern is safety or (severe) premature wear differnce.
Is it OK to have two different tire tread styles on same axle? Thanks for any insight.
Don't know what board to go to for this but here's my quality of dealer service question. I took my car in on Sunday to have the back passenger side window replaced as it was broken into, to have the glass vacuumed out, the grabby breaks evaluated, and the first service done.
Here's how the car was when I picked it up. In the back seats there were still corn kernel sized peices of glass, many shards in the seats seams, and in the front, grease around the window chrome from the instalation of the new window, the maintanance light still on, and the brakes still squeaking at times and catchy.
A staffer had someone vacuum it and clean the grease spots, and then turn off the maintanance light, but that was only because I got there early enough to still find service people working on their own cars. They didn't even give the car a quick wash.
So here's the deal, I sent them an email the next morning describing my displeasure at the poor quality of work and haven't heard a peep back. For $300 for a window I'd think they could have cleaned up properly. Should I simply learn from it and not go back? Would have liked to establish a relationship with my dealer...
And as a sidebar, I recently had to take my CL in to have a belt tensioner replaced. Because the part had to be ordered and also due to scheduling problems I had to go back 3 times within about 10 days (which was inconvenient but the dealer was not to blame). But they washed and vacuumed the car every time. Obviously for the second the third visits, the car really didn't need a wash, but they did it anyway. So I thought that was a nice bit of customer relation.
I'd check with another Michelin source to see if they aren't still available. Offer your dealer the chance to honor the Michelin warranty on the X-One.
Did you contact Michelin: 1-800-847-3435 ( from website). They also have a form on their website for sending email directly to them. I'd ask about the substitution and if X-Ones are being phased out...
The X-Ones are rated higher and have a different tread rubber and tread pattern. I'd want a match. I have X-ones on one car and would replace with same when two wear out. I'd take them over the Symmetry I have on the '03. I think they're a different ride.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Be careful out there-do it to them before they can do it to you.
thanks
thanks
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Biggest advantage, their shipping is only $3.95 regardless of weight which is very very nice. Also will price match which I had them do ever time hehehe. Over all excellent service. Try them out.