I can't beleive we, as a larger communityh don't have a listing and PDF's of all the 2003 Accord TSBs.
It is frustrating not being able to get things fixed in a timely manner, esp. when they are known issues. Dealers, on the other hand, make lower money doing warranty repairs, so they aren't always as eager to find a problem.
I was listening to a CD on my drive home from work yesterday and after about 45 minutes the disc ejected. It put an error number on the LCD display which I believe was P-EO (not sure since it was there and gone). When I tried to re-insert the CD, it would not accept it. Looking at the owners manual was useless. I was hoping that it would have managed to "fix itself" overnight, but when I got in the car this morning it still didn't work. I did notice that the little green light is lit indicating a disc is in the unit even though one isn't.
Is there anything that can be done to fix this without having to take it to Honda because it would probably be cheaper to buy an aftermarket CD player with all the bells and whistles than the cost of labor to fix it. Thanks!
Thanks for the advice. When I park the car in the garage and turn the ignition off, I sometimes hear a loud ticking sound. Maybe 1 or 2 seconds in between ticks. Other than that the car is driving fine, gas mileage is still good 20+MPG. No notitceable leaks. I will keep monitoring as you suggest. My service advisor told me that unless the car overheats again, I should not worry. She said overheating would imply coolant seeping into the engine as a result of a blown gasket.
Thanks for the information. Maybe it's time to set up a board dedicated to 03 Accord noise! And maybe we should air our complaints to NHTSA about Accord.
Honestly, I never had hot key, rattling, noise and other annoying problem with my first used Accord, 1987 LXi 5-speed manual. I guess this will be my first new Honda and the last one.
I will wait at the end of this month for the first oil change and let the dealer know I am not happy with the car. I will also fill out the Honda Survey then to let Honda know that their car kind of sucks.
I remember reading about a recall for ignition switches that would catch fire on the Cavalier. Now, that's a hot key! I have driven our 03 Accord 12 hours at one time and the key got moderately warm. I'm guessing it's caused by a large current that run through the switch, but as long as the plastic doesn't melt, I can live with it.
I've noticed a rattle in the rear window when it's closed, but I haven't had time to lube it yet. Other than that, the car's been running fine.
I had my 03 Accord LX-V6 sedan (silver exterior and black interior) this March, the mil age is now over 3K. I got a very good deal on the car ($20880 including shipping fee), I was told LX V6 sedan was not a very popular model. The car is quite large for my taste, it is very powerful and smooth, it reminds me a American car except it may handle better especially when I push hard. I own two Honda products before -- 87 Accord LX sedan and 92 Acura Integra GS, they were all very good when I had them. But this one for some reasons I feel Honda has made it different from their previous product. What is really brother me is its quality. My complains are below: (1) Interior: The material looks and feels cheaper than other Honda I have. The famous one piece dash is gone, and replace with a multiple-piece dash. Some of the interior door trim plastics has touch-up paint to cover the defect -- it very visible, Honda QC did a bad job. The seat cloth has low quality feel. And I do not think the front seat is very comfortable for long trip. I am not sure why some car magazines claim its seat is very comfortable. For me, it is oversize and too tall ( my height is 5'7") (2)Transmission: The transmission shift very smooth most of the time. But I always have one harsh shifting when the car is parked for a period of time ( over three hours), it feels one of gears does not have lubrication. The problem goes away once the car gets moving. Anyone has similar problem, please post your message. (3) Starting Problem: Like many posts here, I have problem to start the car several times, I have to have second crank. But I later realize this may be related to the fact this car key has a chip inside, it may take time for the engine computer to recognize the chip before firing up. So I normally let the key its hole for a half second before I start cranking. It seems to work for me. (4) Coolant Leak: I notice some coolant leaks between the radiator cap and the tank. It is bad workmanship for the overflow pipe. (5)Front Tire Skidding: I am not very a aggressive driver even I owned a Integra for five years, but this car very easy gets into skidding when it starts in wet surface. and ABS is too easy to activate when it stops in the wet surface. This may be related to its tires.
My 99 accord V6 has 99 K. Last year it started to have starting problems but only when it is hot outside, only after having driven the car for over 30 minutes or more then letting it sit for 30-60 minutes, then attempting to start it. It will take up to 12 cranks to start up. Each time I turn the key the engine turns over but immediately quits. It's like start up, shut off immediately. But if I let the car sit for a bit I guess to cool down it will start up fine. In cold/ cool weather the car will not have any problems. I can also start it up by giving it hard throttle a couple to times immediately after turning the key, I guess to pick up the idle. There are no CEL's. I also changed the main relay because the dealership was 90% sure it was the problem - big mistake. The problem is not getting worse, just consistent. Any suggestions ?
I have a 2K Accord coupe with 40K miles on it. I have a few questions about a rattle I'm having in the dash.
1) The rattle developed a couple of thousand miles ago in the dash, to me it seems like the ducts for the front windshield came loose. currently, it makes a pretty loud rattling noise. What do you think the chances are that HOnda NA will pay for it if I Complain?
2) I thought about trying to fix it myself, since I can tell it's coming from behind the gauge cluster. Is the gauge cluster easy to remove? If so, how? And how hard would the vents be to replace.
3) If I take it to the dealer, how much do you think(approx.) it will end up costing me?
I agree with your findings though I haven't encountered some of your problems.
My V6:
1. rattles on slightly rough road (for example, on a bridge)
2. makes noise when I make a turn. I guess Honda wants a friendly reminder.
3. shifts harshly. Especially at low gear.
4. has a uncomfortable driver seat. Found out after a recent 50-mile short trip.
Finally, I don't buy the saying that the engine computer needs some time to recognize the key code. I work in IC (Integrated Circuit) chip related area, I know how fast a chip can run, even like a chip on a car. You may want to check out the TSB regarding long cranking time on the "Honda Accord" Board.
it sonds like you didn't put enough thought into the purchase of this vehicle. I say that because:
>The car is quite large for my taste
That is something you can determine without ever eevn getting into the car. If you don't like large (Full-size) Sedans why not choose something else.
>What is really brother me is its quality.(1) Interior: The material looks and feels cheaper than other Honda I have. The famous one piece dash is gone, and replace with a multiple-piece dash.
All of this can be evaluated on your first test drive. I can tell right off the bat if I the quality of a purchase meets my standards.
>Some of the interior door trim plastics has touch-up paint to cover the defect -- it very visible, Honda QC did a bad job.
Not so visible that you purchased another car though.
>The seat cloth has low quality feel.
Again, first maybe second test drive, you can figure this out
>And I do not think the front seat is very comfortable for long trip..... For me, it is oversize and too tall ( my height is 5'7")
This is very subjective and you should have an idea from the get-go if the seat feels snug like your Integra or bigger like a buick. I used to have an Integra (I'm 5'8") and loved the seating in it. but I also love how the Accord gives me a little more hip room, especially in the summer when tight fits are uncomfortable.
>(5)Front Tire Skidding: I am not very a aggressive driver even I owned a Integra for five years, but this car very easy gets into skidding when it starts in wet surface. and ABS is too easy to activate when it stops in the wet surface. This may be related to its tires.
I'm not understanding this. Your owned an Integra which is notorious for people driving them aggressively. Maybe you didn't but I don't understand why you mentioned that. It is the Tires about the lack of traction in wet. Read some reviews/opinions about the MXV4 tires. Everyone hates them and can't wait to change them out.
The other issues seem more mechanical and I can't address those. I just hate when people make poor buying decisions and then fault the product for very subjective flaws.
I have friends that own older Accord and they also say there's front tire skidding problem with their Accord. Last week when I was driving on the highway with not much gas in my tank. I feel that the steering was kinda hard to control. It seems that the tires were skidding when I turned. After I've parked the car and checked the tires, they looked fine to me. Last Sunday was a bit windy though but still the feeling wasn't that good. I will keep my tank to be half-full at least in the future.
I have an Accord LX-V6 and I am gonna have to say that I disagree with everything you are saying. The cloth feels very nice to me, the dash is beautiful, the clicking noise is probably an ABS self-check and I have never had a problem with skidding yet.
What is this non sense with the skiding problem. The half tank of gas theory really doesnt make any sense to me. How can 40 pounds ( The difference in weight between an empty tank and a half tank) at most, affect the stability of a car? Maybe you were experiencing crosswinds, but then again I dont know where tire skid comes into play. Please go into more detail!
keung Sounds to me like an ignition switch problem, which there is a recall pn them for causing stalling..Have you had it done? If not call them and have them see if your car gets one or if you want e-mail me or post your VIN and I can check and see if your car qualifies. If you want to e-mail me give me yours and I will reply...Good luck
maxhonda99 Are you sure the rattle is not coming from the strip on the outside of the windshield that goes to the back of the car? We have seen these rattle and the problem is a clip that didnt get installed correctly on that strip. As for Honda covering it under warranty you could try, as that never hurts anything, but chances are that on a rattle they are going to say no. As for how to remove the panel Tilt the steering column down.
Remove the screws, and detach the clips, then carefully remove the instrument panel Good luck..
03lxv6 What TSB for long crank time? I could only find info found on a service news write up talking about the immobilizer and looking for it blinking or not durring the long crank. Do you know a number of the TSB..
After reading this board for a period of time, I have noticed that there seems to be a number of problems with the V6 Honda Accords. We have owned or leased three,(3), 4 cylinder Honda Accords, (1997, 2000, and 2003), and we have not had the problems as described in these postings. QUESTION: ----Could the V6 be that different in terms of "quality" from its four, (4) cylinder relative?????-----greg
I have a low sounding rattle/knock, when the car is going around corners (esp. downhill), and on normal/roughish roads (paved, but uneven).
It sounds like it underneath/outside the interior cab. Very hard to localize; sounds like the middle of the car. This is definitely structural and not engine or tranny related.
Tends to go away after the car warms up a bit, although I'm on the freeway, so I don't hear it much.
THanks for the info. I'll check on the strip. I think I know what you are talking about, the strip that connects the front windshield to the rear windshield on both sides of the roof(rain gutter)?
Treoster and Maxhonda99 For the rattle, creaking or clicking from the dashboard or A-pillar when driving over rough roads, the problem may be a loose clip on the windshield portion of the roof molding. You can check if this is the problem by sticking a piece of cardboard between the molding and the windshield glass and test-driving the vehicle. If the noise goes away, a loose roof molding clip is the culprit. To fix this problem, remove the inner fender, and look up at the roof molding clip. If the clip isn’t fully engaged, just slide the clip down to the end of the molding, and push it into the hole.
By the way Maxhonda this is the strip you and I are talking about...
I am allowed to give out info from service bulletins but I am not allowed to share or post the entire bulletin. Honda is going to be making them available for the general public soon. So for the mean time I can still try and search them and give advice on what to do...Other than the info in the above post I could not find any other info and have not had any other rattles or knocks in the Accords as of yet.
You can find this on the "Honda Accord" board. It is posted by emale. The message # is 10674.
Honestly, I don't have the long cranking issue at this moment. But please everyone, don't buy into the words that it takes some time for the engine computer to compare the key code until it is shown that the computer has a problem.
2003 Accord 4 Door EX V6 After months of hearing rattle sound coming from the center storage area and some cracking noise from the driver’s window finally decided to take it to dealer. Not sure exactly what they did, but in the service invoice it says insulated center storage compartment door w/felt tape. So far I have not heard any rattle sounds so it appears to be working. I will be test driving late at night when no one is around so I can hear better.
As for the cracking noise, they lubricated left window run channel and door seals. It appears this occurs more often when the weather is dry. I have not heard this sound since the service.
If you can’t take rattle sound or cracking noise any longer take it to dealer for service
Ok thats not actually a TSB, thats a tech line write up for a possible solution to the long crank. That is however the start of the necessary gatthering of info in order to narrow down the problem and if needed make a sevice bulletin. Depending on the results they get from the fuel pressure readings. Some other tech line write ups have had the tech check for immobilizer light and ECM grounds but so far no luck on pinpointing it down..
Thanks but my model doesn't qualify for the recall on the ignition switch. It does for the EGR but since it hasn't had a problem they won't touch this either. Next possibilties ?? Oh since I have taken the car into 2 separate dealerships, the first Honda dealer ran it on the scanner and came back clean. I went to the second dealer and all he did was make a phone call to tech support who suggested the main relay, so I paid $ 100 for a phone call. When I went back to the first dealership to tell them tech support at the second dealership said it was the relay, the first dealership then called up tech support and they said it would not be the relay. Quite confusing.
I took my 03 EX V6 in to have the popping noise upon acceleration looked at. Honda Service Department said the problem was a bad master cylinder... I had my doubts but they changed it anyways and I still have the popping noise. Could someone please post the name of the dealership where the problem was successfully resolved or post the TSB that explains how to correct the problem. I don't want the service department to change any more parts that don't need to be changed...
The question relates to an '01 CL, but I figure it is a close enough relative to the Accord.
Recently I have noticed that when I turn the engine on, and switch the Air cond on right away (or if the AC is already on), there would be a fairly loud noise best described as a sort of groaning, squeaking noise. The noise seems to intensify if I crank the steering which leads me to think maybe it is related to the load put on the engine. The noise also seems to disappear or lessen after awhile. I have not noticed any difference in either engine performance or AC effectiveness.
keung Has you VIN ever been run for the ignition because 98-99accords L4 and V6 were part of it? As for any other suggestions I would say probably a bad air control valve on the throttle body. We have seen a few of these intermitantly go bad, no codes on comp. Other than that maybe a computer reset and an Idle relearn procedure..
bodble2 The only thing I can think of is either a belt noise or idler pully other than that I dont know I havent had any similar complaints..sorry...
As stated in an earlier post, I had the popping noise fixed on my V6 Sedan. The noise is caused by the floor pan bumping against the firewall (bulkhead?) near the tunnel area. The Honda suggested fix is to flat weld the area. I was told by my service advisor that this info came from Honda's Techline. Not sure why some Honda service departments have this information and others don't. There is definitely a fix for this problem. Good luck.
Unfortunately a close to 1" long nail penetrated my 02 Accord V6 tire (65R16 I guess) with only head left outside. I pulled it out and drove for 10 miles. So far it has been 1 hour and the pressure is normal at 32psi. Do you think the pressure should drop noticeable quickly or very slowly if the nail did hurt the tire? Or my tire is OK. Thanks!
In case it happens again, you should just leave the nail in. Here's a little test you can do. Spit on the tire, or use a more classy approach and take some soapy water and apply it to where the nail was. If you see bubbles then take it to get patched. No bubbles then you are most likely A-OKAY.
I ran over a small nail a few weeks ago while traveling back from along trip up state. Walked around the car, didnt notice anything wrong. Next morning, you guessed it, the tire was nearly flat. So u never know!
I would just like to get some clarification on exactly what I'm doing with the windshield trim piece. By the fender well trim piece you speak of, I think you mean the front driver and passenger side wheel well black plastic trim pieces, right? So I remove the wheel well trim by removing the little black clips and the piece you are speaking of that could be rattling would be towards the back of the front wheel wells?
ANother question. If that doesn't work, and I want to meddle with the dashboard, is their anything I should be careful with when removing the gauge cluster? Any wires that are sensitive? or is any part of the exposed gauge cluster sensitive? ANd is the gauge cluster held in by screws?
BTW, thanks for your help! You provide very valuable help and advice.
Have a 97 I4 auto with 156K and got a CEL and tranny D light flashing-checked the ATF and was one quart low. THis is the first time this has happened-not a bit of fluid lost before this event. Changed ATF 9K ago. No obvious signs of a leak around the bottom of the tranny or short shafts. Tranny shifting fine-any ideas. Any typical problem areas to check.
maxhonda99 That sounds correct but before you do that try putting a piece of folded paper or cardboard bettween the strip and the windshield to put some tension on that strip and see if the noise changes or goes away. If it does then that is your rproblem, if it doesnt then you can start looking elsewhere. Before taking the dash area apart try lubing the window seal and see if that helps the noise. That seal on both front windows is so hard that it rattles against the glass and causes a noise also. If you need to remove the instrument cluster area I will try and remember to look up some directions for you
bburton3 You can short the SCS connector and count blinks for the codes or you can go get them pulled at the dealer. It may even be covered under the warranty extension depending on what it is..The one quart low shouldnt have hurt anything. Good luck
Did read the code-was 70 which is a general tranny code. Will look for source of leaks-any likely places - could the atf cooler in the radiator spring a leak? Just curious where most leaks happen in Honda auto trannies.
Thanks. Yeah, I know about the seals on the windows! They are as hard as a rock!!! I generally lube them every 3 months or so with a silicone based lubricant. Can you recommend a better lube for that seal as well as the door seals?
I have a rattle that sounds like it is coming from my drivers door. Either in the window seal area or above the window. Could this be the oft mentioned mohawk strip problem? The dealer claims they lubed the window but it doesn't seem to have done any good. Not sure weather to believe they actually did anything though, since they can't seem to tighten an oil drain plug correctly.
It could be the strip or it could be the hard window seal, we use Shin_etsu greese on the seal that the window contacks at the the top just before closing. Sounds like that whats you got but you may have the other type rattle. If lube doesnt work or if you just want to try it first put the folded paper inbettween the windshield and molding and see if it goes away..
Where do I stick the piece of cardboard? Is it on the trim piece on the front window near the wiper or along the side near the a pillar? Also, is there a Honda part# for that grease? And if my dealer doesn't have it in stock is there anything specific I should look for other then being silicon based if I head over to Pep Boys?
I can only imagine how much they mark up that grease at the dealership. Go check out Home Depot or your local autozone. I use silicone based grease from Home Depot and it works well. Best of luck!
The greese isnt all that expensive and we carry it but I dont know about all. As for the test, you put the folded paper or cardboard on the side bettween the strip that goes front to back and the windshield. The purpose is to take up some slack and if it is the noise it will dampen or silence the noise.
Comments
Need that TSB....
It is frustrating not being able to get things fixed in a timely manner, esp. when they are known issues. Dealers, on the other hand, make lower money doing warranty repairs, so they aren't always as eager to find a problem.
If you have a link(s), please, please post.
Thank you.
Is there anything that can be done to fix this without having to take it to Honda because it would probably be cheaper to buy an aftermarket CD player with all the bells and whistles than the cost of labor to fix it. Thanks!
Thanks for the advice. When I park the car in the garage and turn the ignition off, I sometimes hear a loud ticking sound. Maybe 1 or 2 seconds in between ticks. Other than that the car is driving fine, gas mileage is still good 20+MPG. No notitceable leaks. I will keep monitoring as you suggest. My service advisor told me that unless the car overheats again, I should not worry. She said overheating would imply coolant seeping into the engine as a result of a blown gasket.
Honestly, I never had hot key, rattling, noise and other annoying problem with my first used Accord, 1987 LXi 5-speed manual. I guess this will be my first new Honda and the last one.
I will wait at the end of this month for the first oil change and let the dealer know I am not happy with the car. I will also fill out the Honda Survey then to let Honda know that their car kind of sucks.
I've noticed a rattle in the rear window when it's closed, but I haven't had time to lube it yet. Other than that, the car's been running fine.
(1) Interior: The material looks and feels cheaper than other Honda I have. The famous one piece dash is gone, and replace with a multiple-piece dash. Some of the interior door trim plastics has touch-up paint to cover the defect -- it very visible, Honda QC did a bad job. The seat cloth has low quality feel. And I do not think the front seat is very comfortable for long trip. I am not sure why some car magazines claim its seat is very comfortable. For me, it is oversize and too tall ( my height is 5'7")
(2)Transmission: The transmission shift very smooth most of the time. But I always have one harsh shifting when the car is parked for a period of time ( over three hours), it feels one of gears does not have lubrication. The problem goes away once the car gets moving. Anyone has similar problem, please post your message.
(3) Starting Problem: Like many posts here, I have problem to start the car several times, I have to have second crank. But I later realize this may be related to the fact this car key has a chip inside, it may take time for the engine computer to recognize the chip before firing up. So I normally let the key its hole for a half second before I start cranking. It seems to work for me.
(4) Coolant Leak: I notice some coolant leaks between the radiator cap and the tank. It is bad workmanship for the overflow pipe.
(5)Front Tire Skidding: I am not very a aggressive driver even I owned a Integra for five years, but this car very easy gets into skidding when it starts in wet surface. and ABS is too easy to activate when it stops in the wet surface. This may be related to its tires.
I have a 2K Accord coupe with 40K miles on it. I have a few questions about a rattle I'm having in the dash.
1) The rattle developed a couple of thousand miles ago in the dash, to me it seems like the ducts for the front windshield came loose. currently, it makes a pretty loud rattling noise.
What do you think the chances are that HOnda NA will pay for it if I Complain?
2) I thought about trying to fix it myself, since I can tell it's coming from behind the gauge cluster. Is the gauge cluster easy to remove? If so, how? And how hard would the vents be to replace.
3) If I take it to the dealer, how much do you think(approx.) it will end up costing me?
I agree with your findings though I haven't encountered some of your problems.
My V6:
1. rattles on slightly rough road (for example, on a bridge)
2. makes noise when I make a turn. I guess Honda wants a friendly reminder.
3. shifts harshly. Especially at low gear.
4. has a uncomfortable driver seat. Found out after a recent 50-mile short trip.
Finally, I don't buy the saying that the engine computer needs some time to recognize the key code. I work in IC (Integrated Circuit) chip related area, I know how fast a chip can run, even like a chip on a car. You may want to check out the TSB regarding long cranking time on the "Honda Accord" Board.
>The car is quite large for my taste
That is something you can determine without ever eevn getting into the car. If you don't like large (Full-size) Sedans why not choose something else.
>What is really brother me is its quality.(1) Interior: The material looks and feels cheaper than other Honda I have. The famous one piece dash is gone, and replace with a multiple-piece dash.
All of this can be evaluated on your first test drive. I can tell right off the bat if I the quality of a purchase meets my standards.
>Some of the interior door trim plastics has touch-up paint to cover the defect -- it very visible, Honda QC did a bad job.
Not so visible that you purchased another car though.
>The seat cloth has low quality feel.
Again, first maybe second test drive, you can figure this out
>And I do not think the front seat is very comfortable for long trip..... For me, it is oversize and too tall ( my height is 5'7")
This is very subjective and you should have an idea from the get-go if the seat feels snug like your Integra or bigger like a buick. I used to have an Integra (I'm 5'8") and loved the seating in it. but I also love how the Accord gives me a little more hip room, especially in the summer when tight fits are uncomfortable.
>(5)Front Tire Skidding: I am not very a aggressive driver even I owned a Integra for five years, but this car very easy gets into skidding when it starts in wet surface. and ABS is too easy to activate when it stops in the wet surface. This may be related to its tires.
I'm not understanding this. Your owned an Integra which is notorious for people driving them aggressively. Maybe you didn't but I don't understand why you mentioned that. It is the Tires about the lack of traction in wet. Read some reviews/opinions about the MXV4 tires. Everyone hates them and can't wait to change them out.
The other issues seem more mechanical and I can't address those. I just hate when people make poor buying decisions and then fault the product for very subjective flaws.
NO CAR Skids like that. If it was then you probably wouldn;'t be here to write about it.
Sounds to me like an ignition switch problem, which there is a recall pn them for causing stalling..Have you had it done? If not call them and have them see if your car gets one or if you want e-mail me or post your VIN and I can check and see if your car qualifies. If you want to e-mail me give me yours and I will reply...Good luck
maxhonda99
Are you sure the rattle is not coming from the strip on the outside of the windshield that goes to the back of the car? We have seen these rattle and the problem is a clip that didnt get installed correctly on that strip. As for Honda covering it under warranty you could try, as that never hurts anything, but chances are that on a rattle they are going to say no.
As for how to remove the panel Tilt the steering column down.
Remove the screws, and detach the clips, then carefully remove the instrument panel
Good luck..
03lxv6
What TSB for long crank time? I could only find info found on a service news write up talking about the immobilizer and looking for it blinking or not durring the long crank. Do you know a number of the TSB..
It sounds like it underneath/outside the interior cab. Very hard to localize; sounds like the middle of the car. This is definitely structural and not engine or tranny related.
Tends to go away after the car warms up a bit, although I'm on the freeway, so I don't hear it much.
Very annonying...would like to fix.
I will volunteer to do this if people will send me copies (or even post the links) of the TSB they have.
Who's game?
THanks for the info. I'll check on the strip. I think I know what you are talking about, the strip that connects the front windshield to the rear windshield on both sides of the roof(rain gutter)?
For the rattle, creaking or clicking from the
dashboard or A-pillar when driving over rough roads, the problem may be a loose clip on the windshield portion of the roof molding.
You can check if this is the problem by sticking
a piece of cardboard between the molding and the
windshield glass and test-driving the vehicle. If
the noise goes away, a loose roof molding clip is
the culprit.
To fix this problem, remove the inner fender, and
look up at the roof molding clip. If the clip
isn’t fully engaged, just slide the clip down to
the end of the molding, and push it into the hole.
By the way Maxhonda this is the strip you and I are talking about...
You can find this on the "Honda Accord" board. It is posted by emale. The message # is 10674.
Honestly, I don't have the long cranking issue at this moment. But please everyone, don't buy into the words that it takes some time for the engine computer to compare the key code until it is shown that the computer has a problem.
2003 Accord 4 Door EX V6
After months of hearing rattle sound coming from the center storage area and some cracking noise from the driver’s window finally decided to take it to dealer. Not sure exactly what they did, but in the service invoice it says insulated center storage compartment door w/felt tape. So far I have not heard any rattle sounds so it appears to be working. I will be test driving late at night when no one is around so I can hear better.
As for the cracking noise, they lubricated left window run channel and door seals. It appears this occurs more often when the weather is dry. I have not heard this sound since the service.
If you can’t take rattle sound or cracking noise any longer take it to dealer for service
Happy driving...
I don't think that it's a weld issue. I too thought that it might have been a bad master cylinder...guess not.
THOSE OF YOU THAT HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE RESOLVED, PLS PROVIDE SOME SPECIFIC INFO...
Recently I have noticed that when I turn the engine on, and switch the Air cond on right away (or if the AC is already on), there would be a fairly loud noise best described as a sort of groaning, squeaking noise. The noise seems to intensify if I crank the steering which leads me to think maybe it is related to the load put on the engine. The noise also seems to disappear or lessen after awhile. I have not noticed any difference in either engine performance or AC effectiveness.
Thank you in advance.
Has you VIN ever been run for the ignition because 98-99accords L4 and V6 were part of it? As for any other suggestions I would say probably a bad air control valve on the throttle body. We have seen a few of these intermitantly go bad, no codes on comp. Other than that maybe a computer reset and an Idle relearn procedure..
bodble2
The only thing I can think of is either a belt noise or idler pully other than that I dont know I havent had any similar complaints..sorry...
I ran over a small nail a few weeks ago while traveling back from along trip up state. Walked around the car, didnt notice anything wrong. Next morning, you guessed it, the tire was nearly flat. So u never know!
I would just like to get some clarification on exactly what I'm doing with the windshield trim piece. By the fender well trim piece you speak of, I think you mean the front driver and passenger side wheel well black plastic trim pieces, right? So I remove the wheel well trim by removing the little black clips and the piece you are speaking of that could be rattling would be towards the back of the front wheel wells?
ANother question. If that doesn't work, and I want to meddle with the dashboard, is their anything I should be careful with when removing the gauge cluster? Any wires that are sensitive? or is any part of the exposed gauge cluster sensitive? ANd is the gauge cluster held in by screws?
BTW, thanks for your help! You provide very valuable help and advice.
thanks
That sounds correct but before you do that try putting a piece of folded paper or cardboard bettween the strip and the windshield to put some tension on that strip and see if the noise changes or goes away. If it does then that is your rproblem, if it doesnt then you can start looking elsewhere. Before taking the dash area apart try lubing the window seal and see if that helps the noise. That seal on both front windows is so hard that it rattles against the glass and causes a noise also. If you need to remove the instrument cluster area I will try and remember to look up some directions for you
bburton3
You can short the SCS connector and count blinks for the codes or you can go get them pulled at the dealer. It may even be covered under the warranty extension depending on what it is..The one quart low shouldnt have hurt anything. Good luck
thanks again
Thanks. Yeah, I know about the seals on the windows! They are as hard as a rock!!! I generally lube them every 3 months or so with a silicone based lubricant. Can you recommend a better lube for that seal as well as the door seals?
bburton3
There is no common place for a leak as they usally do not leak but any place is possible. Do you see any leaks on the ground?
Jeff
Thanks