Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

deyounk

We have a `98 Accord EX-V6. It has very low mileage, but it's making clunking noises in the transmission. I know this is a very common problem, but when the dealer looked at it they couldn't find anything wrong. What should I do? What have other people had to do to fix this problem?

Thanks

bchoy

i bought my 2003 EX v6 2 weeks ago...my car is in the dealer....the car keeps pullling to the lerft/right......first ,the mechanics said it is fine.....i insist the service manger to drive with me....he agreed that......but i doubt they can get it fix....if they can fix it in 4 times i will demand for refund due to lemon law....so don't buy this yr accord......do u guys have similar problem????

levick

Your problem reminds me of one I had years ago on a Chevy Corvair, not in warranty. Dealer service dept. kept charging me to do things,new alternator, battery, etc. car would work OK and then battery would die later. I went to pick it up at service dept. since they told me they had fixed it, and when I turned the key in the service dept. it was already dead. The specific mechanic who had worked on the car saw me doing this, came over and said "Oh, that's just the bare wire under your car that is shorting out/draining the battery. I'll recharge it again." The crooks knew all along that there was a bare wire underneath that would drain the thing no matter what they replaced, but they never fixed that. I guess I was too good a source of income for them!!!

levick

I had this on a 1989 Accord for many years, and now have it again on a 1 month old 2003 Accord. Even after a very short trip (1 mile), when I turn off the car and get out, I hear a metallic, clicking, noise seeming to come from under the car for a few minutes, maybe near the front wheel wells or elsewhere under the front. I've never figured out what that was on my old car, and now am doubly curious since I have it on my brand new car. Any ideas???

levick

Greg had 2 oil changes in 6000 miles and is going in for 7500 mile service. If I read the manual correctly, they say that service, including the first oil change, need only be done at 5000 miles unless you drive severely. My last Accord required 3,000 mile oil changes, 7,500 mile service intervals. My new 2003 Accord only has 400 miles on it. What's the group take on when I should take it in for first oil change and for first overall service????

stickershox

This post is about that rotten egg smell that comes from the Honda Accord 2003 model. My Accord has approximately 1300 miles. The rotten egg odor is still there. When will the rotten egg smell disappear?

speedracer03

I posted a while back about a creaking sound coming from the dash that was fixed. That problem was with clips in the A-pillar. Now there are rattles coming from the rear pillars or somewhere near where the door and pillar meets. My car is at Honda right now but they can't seem to replicate the rattles when they take it out for a test drive. Has anyone had this problem or had a fix for it yet?

spud41

Did the dealer state they checked the amount of current draw? If your battery is draining over time, then some electrical component is causing this. If the dealer finds excessive current draw, they can remove fuses one at a time until the current draw returns to normal. Then, they will at least know which circuit has the excessive draw. Then, it's a matter of checking (or unplugging) each component in that circuit until it's found. Do you have any after-market accessories on the car?

If the dealer checked for excessive current draw and was not able to find any, then the battery should not be going dead (unless the battery is bad, but you state it's already been replaced).

I'm interested in knowing what the dealer's next step is,,,

fredv1

Page 252 of the 2003 owners manual advises that for the four cylinder under normal conditions oil is to cnanged "every 10,000 miles or yearly" Oil filter is to be changed, "every other oil change." Page 250 states, "If you only occasionally drive under a severe condition, you should follow the Normal conditions maintenance schedule." I myself will not second- guess Honda.

spud41

1) This might be a dealer only type part, but I'm not 100% sure.
2) I would start with replacing the driver's front, then retest.
3) After removing the door panel and inner plastic, disconnect the the outer door handle rod from the latch. Next, disconnect the inner rod handle and lock rod from where they connect to the latch (be careful not to damage the plastic clips that hold them on, the outer door handle rod can be very hard to remove from the clip). Next, remove the 10mm bolt (from the left lower part of the door panel) that holds the rear window run channel in place. The rear channel can now be moved out of the way. Unplug the electrical connector, then remove the three screws that hold the latch in place. After you remove the latch, the actuator can be separated from the latch by removing a couple of small screws. I hope this helps!!

gregoryc1

If you change your oil every 10,000 miles,(or yearly), and you change your oil filter every second oil change, that translates into using an oil filter for 20,000 miles!---- Are you running AMSOIL Synthetic Oil in your engine with an AMSOIL Oil Filter? QUESTION: ----How do you feel about changing engines at about 40,000 miles, when the engine becomes loaded with sludge? I would not want to purchase a used vehicle from you! -----Greg

blane

levick:

That "metallic clicking" that you are concerned about is totally normal on most vehicles. It's just sheet metal components of your exhaust system (catalitic converter, muffler, pipes) cooling down after having been running at maximum temperature while driving. It's the same sort of thing that you hear when the heat is coming up or going down during the heating season in your home if you have finned baseboard radiators.

scape2

My wife and I own a 2000 Accord LX, purchased new. I expected this car to be nothing but perfect with Honda reputation. I have had the car back to the dealer 3x since we have owned this vehicle. Anyhow, not seeing what people get so excited over these vehicles for.. Drove a Mazda 6, Passat and these vehicles had soul and character.
Enough of this.. I have a question. Does anyone know how to turn off the "maint req" (maintenance required light? I do all my own oil changes/brakes ect...
Thanks.

brozhnik

In response to "This post is about that rotten egg smell that comes from the Honda Accord 2003 model. My Accord has approximately 1300 miles. The rotten egg odor is still there. When will the rotten egg smell disappear? "

My sister is having the exact same problem in her 2003 Accord EX (with about 2300 miles now). She notices it when she idles and has the window open, and she says it's very strong. The service dept. told her that it was common in a number of new car makes (although it clearly is not universal to all makes, from what we hear, it seems to be common in Accords). It's some chemical in the catalytic converter that burns off over the first 10K miles and then is gone, they say. Will let you know how it plays out. She's not happy about this, although she likes everything else about the car.

hondadriven

(Re: #4994 of 5009 1997 Honda Accord Door Lock Actuator)
=> Thanks Spud41 for your response.
The front actuator was replaced and tested but have 2 other messed up actuators (rear left, front right). I disconnected the front right and could only hear the buzzing sound from the rear left actuator so far (doesn't unlock or lock anymore automatically, nor does the front left).
Anyways, junk yard guy hasn't fallen through per the actuators I need, will check during the week. Haven't found anything yet on the web(gotta check some more, I guess)... Anyone got a site, pass it on pls. will appreciate.
=> Will try your instructions on removing once I get the part. Sounds like it will work. Will update once I get those items (hopefully).!!! Thanks again Spud41!!

4ztc524

Gregoryc1, I think your comments to Fredv1 are unfair. He is following the oil and filter change intervals specified in the manual, and you imply that he is not properly maintaining his car! While I hate to bring up the subject of oil additives, you have been pushing "mystery oils" despite the fact that the manual says (page 270) that additives are not required, and may affect the engine's performance and durability. I think Honda knows what is best for their engines.

Bob

rmd122

scape2: Hold the odometer reset in when starting the car to turn off the maintenance light. It should be described in the owner's manual.

gregoryc1

Thank you for your opinion on the subject of 10,000 mile oil and filter chnages, and the use of top cylinder lubricants in the fuel of vehicles. If you do a search of this board you will find owners who are complaining about a rough idle on four cylinder Hondas. Our Hondas idle VERY smooth. If you want to check out a sit dealing with the results of extended oil and filter changes, go to this site: ----http://www.cartrackers.com/Forums/live/Toyota/28.html----The owner of a vehicle is free to give that vehicle any type of maintenance that he . she sees fit to give that vehicle! Anything can be written in an owners manual. The important question is: ----"Will the manufacturer replace the engine if it fails because it is full of sludge,(even though the mileage intervals were followed)?" The bottom line is that the manufacturer is in the drivers seat when it comes to honoring the vehicle warranty and / or the extended warranty. If you were faced with an engine replacement issue on a three year old vehicle, and the manufacturer decided not to honor the warranty because of engine sludge, would you spend the money to go to court, or would you purchase a new engine? I know of a engine manufacturer that looks for reasons to go to court just to test their warranty in every State. It is easier to have excellent maintenance records at the local dealer. I am not pushing any product on anyone. I am just sharing my experience with interested people on this board. If someone takes my advise, and it helps them with a problem, I am happy! I believe in high quality maintenance. As far as fuel additives are concerned, 4 ounces of a product in 10 gallons of fuel would not even change the color of the fuel.(Picture pouring four ounces of orange juice in 10 gallons of water). Fuel injectors need to be lubricated in order to function properly. Valves need to be lubricated in order to slide in the guides. Piston rings need to be free in the grooves of the piston in order to do their job of sealing the combustion chamber. This small amount of "top oil" in the fuel provides this lubrication and cleaning action. If you do not believe in these products, please do not use them in your vehicle. This site is designed for the open and free exchange of ideas and concepts, as long as it is done in a "professional manner"! -----Have a nice day. ----Greg

pj23

Well, I have not yet used any top cylinder lubricant additive in the fuel for my 2003 Accord 4 cylinder, and it idles just fine. Smooth as can be. My take on the rough idle issue was the additional vibration that occurs in any 4 cylinder car that I've ever driven when the compressor kicks in. But that is just my take, so who knows?

To gregoryc1, is Honda the engine manufacturer that looks for reasons to go to court to test its warranty in every state? If not, then that fact really has no relevance to this discussion, other than to scare people. Besides which, litigation is horrendously expensive, and you never know when a jury will burn you. Doesn't appear to be a sound business practice to me.

I've said it before, but I will say it again. I really do not think that Honda will risk its reputation for quality, durability and reliability in this country by publishing a maintenance schedule that is incompatible with the long life of its vehicles and engines. If the engines in the Civic from 2001 onward, and now the Accord from 2003 onward (I don't have personal knowledge of the maintenance intervals for other Honda models) start self-destructing 5 or 6 years out, then Honda will have a very serious problem on its hands for its two volume leaders.

I am going to venture a guess that Honda would not allow its reputation as an automobile manufacturer and more importantly an engine manufacturer, to be ruined in that manner.

So while there isn't a problem in changing oil every 3,000 miles, I don't think we can conclude that the engine will be full of sludge in 40,000 miles following the maintenance schedule recommended by the manufacturer of the automobile.

blane

I estimate that I've driven about three-quarters of a million miles since I started driving in 1958. That's in eighteen or so vehicles.

I've followed all manufacturers' maintenance schedules closely, not arbitrarily changing oil at 3,000 miles because the oil companies say so. I've never added top cylinder lubricants, or other such snake oil, specifically because every one of the owner's manuals I've ever read specifically advised against it.

I have never had a sludge problem. I have never had an internal engine problem. I have never had to repair or replace rings, pistons, valves, bushings, etc. If I've ever had a rough idle it was usually because I needed to adjust a carburetter or to adjust or replace points, plugs, caps or wires. Oh yes, there was that one time that I bought some fuel with water in it, but some dry gas and refilling the tank solved that roughness in short order.

I've never wasted my money on additives, and I recommend that nobody else do it either.

cokane5227

hi auburn63, i just installed honda OEM fog lights on my 2002 accord coupe 4cyl, everything went pretty well. but, my fog lights aren't working, they are not lighting up at all, but when i turn on my headlights, the background lighting of the fog light switch lights up, but when i press it, the little green light doesn't light up.
well, i just think that if my fog lights aren't lighting up, then the case should be that the backgrond lighting of the switch doesn't light up either, since there is no connection whatsoever, but it does light up, but there is just no electrocity going to the fog lights since that little green light wouldn't light up.
it's already dark outside so i can't work on the car anymore, i'll check everything from start to finish again tomorrow but i'd like to have some advice on where i shoud look into, thanks a lot !!!

hondaman02

People.......scape2 is a Honda basher! I own a CRV and my wife a new Accord and on the CRV VS. Escape thread he definately makes it clear that Hondas are not what they say they are!!!

I have disagreed with him concerning the Escape as I had a very bad experience with a rental and ever since then he has bashed me for it

auburn63

Did you install them using the instruction sheet step by step or did you modify it along the way? If you used the instructions I would make sure of the fuses installed as well as the original fuses, check that the fog light switch and headlights are on and on low beams, check your fuseable link and make sure it is good and any installed grounds..If all seems good I can take a look at an electical diagram and give you some test points. Does the original lighting still work normally?

gregoryc1

QUESTION: ----Did you take the time to go to the "cartrackers site" that I listed in the #5013 posting, and review the material dealing with "sludge in engines", before you shared your comments in posting #5014? After reading this material you might have a different opinion on this subject! I run both land and marine engines, and I use the same maintenance schedule for both. In a Marine gasoline 4 cycle inboard or I/O engine, every 100 hours of operation is equal to 10,000 miles of use in a land vehicle engine, so as such, I change the oil and filter every 25 hours, and I use a top cylinder lubricant. (50 hours of use = 5,000 mile & 25 hours of use = 2,500 miles). High quality state of the art maintenance,(with quality products), is the "key" to long / trouble free engine life. You are free to give your vehicle any type of maintenance that you feel is adequate under the circumsantces. I am only sharing some information with people who might be interested. (Nothing Personal)! ----Have a nice day. ----Greg

imidazol97

I came away convinced that the sludge problem is caused by an overheating situation in the head or a coolant seepage affecting t he oil's characterists or a pressure relief valve malfunction of some type.
I did not get the impression that the sludge was caused by lack of an additive in the gasoline, in an amount so minor that it wouldn't even change the color of the water like adding 4 ounces of orange juice to 10 gallons of water...
I did get the impression that Toyota is flim-flamming the customers, just like Honda does, just like Ford does, just like GM does, etc....
I am convinced Toyota knows what causes the problem in part of the cases; the others may be lack of oil changes by customers at 3-5 K schedules as were needed for short trips in colder weather -- hard duty.

pj23

Thanks for your comments. No, I had not read the information regarding sludge in the engine in the cartrackers site when I posted my previous message, as I didn't think it necessary to make my point. I have reviewed the information presented therein, and agree with imidazol97's conclusion, in that the Toyota problem is not a result of poor maintenance or lack of a top cylinder lubricant. That is not to say in some or many cases, that the problem was not exacerbated by poor maintenance. I appreicate and respect both your experience with engines and your opinion. I merely offer my opinion on the situation as well.

For the record, all of my maintenance on both my wife's 2002 and my 2003 Accord is done at our dealership at the interval specified in the manual. Gregoryc1, I believe that this was posted by you at the cartracker's site:

"If the Toyota manual states that oil change intervals fall between 5,000 and 7,500 miles, depending on the use of the vehicle, then the engine should be able to perform properly with that type of preventive maintenance. Now having said that, it is the owners responsibility to have records of that service, and the best way to have records is to use the dealer for oil changes for the following reasons: ----1.) They are responsible for the quality and type of oil installed in the vehicle.---2.) They are responsible for the quality and type of oil filter element that is being installed in the vehicle. If a problem arises, you as the owner are out of the loop. It is their oil and filter, you have changed it at the proper intervals, and the dealer has the records. If you have to go to court, you have the documentation to win the case. ----Just my opinion. ---Greg "

I believe that your post quoted above related mainly to an owner's liability and/or responsibility in being able to prove that recommended maintenance was performed. But I am curious about the first part of this post, in which you state that (to paraphrase) following the manufacturer's recommendations should ensure that the vehicle will perform properly. This was in relation to Toyotas, would your statement hold true for Hondas? And what would be the endpoint (mileage-wise) where following the manufacturer's preventative maintenance recommendations would no longer guarantee proper performance?

And please let me state, I too mean no personal attack in any manner. But I do stand by my statement that the questionable practices of the engine manufacturer you mentioned in your post of #5013 do not relate to Honda unless there is some evidence that Honda engages in the same practices. To a certain degree, I think comparisons of experiences and practices among manufacturers is necessary and helpful. But I don't think that we can go that far.

98jettavr6

I have a '98 EX Coupe with the factory sunroof.
Is there any way to make the roof open all the way. Right now it only opens to about 75% of the available space?

bodble2

They all do that. To open it completely would require some additional accessories -- a hammer and a pair of big pliers. Just kidding

auburn63

I have been at a dealership for 20 years and in that time the regulars that you come across are plenty. They all have counted on us with the upkeep of their cars and we have never used additives for the oil or transmission as Honda has always said not too. Regular oil changes(even those that we saw every 7500) were all that have been needed. I have atleast 4 customers with 200,000 plus and 1 with 500,000 and still going on same motors. I personally had a Monte Carlo with 310,000, 92 Accord with 286,000 and a 4dr 92 Accord with 90,000 all with no major problems and original motors. So my point is that any additives are not necesary for to make the car last. As well, some(not all) additives can cause seal damage and if Honda finds this to be true in a warranty claim they will reject it. Anyhow this is just my 2 cents on the matter and if you use it or don't that becomes a personal choice and hey, you are paying for the car, so you can do what you want to it...
   "and thats all I got to say about that" Forest Gump

cokane5227

but i already fixed the problem, yea i had the step by step manual and followed and made no mods to the wires or anything whatsoever. the problem was that i did not connect the 2 terminals into the 14-pin headlight switch harness the right way, the manual didn't say how exactly how to connect the terminals, and i didn't figure out till later that i had to unclip that top part of the connector to free all the terminals so new ones can go in. anywayz thanks for the help, the fog lights are GREAT. =D

2003corolla

I have stumbled accross two separate maintenance intervals from Honda. The owners manual that came with the Accord, and the sticker in my window says 10,000 miles. But the online owners link website states the oil change interval is 7,500 miles/6 mos.
Which interval is correct?
Andy

gregoryc1

I like your posting, and you are entitled to your opinion, but you are wrong with regards to fuel and oil additives. If "additives" are NOT ACCEPTABLE to "HONDA", then why does my Honda dealer advocate the use of Krex Fuel System and Injector Cleaner, and Krex Graphite Engine Lubricant every 7,500 miles. (see this product site:-----http://www.krexinc.com/products/html ------). This seems like preventive maintenance to me! IMPORTANT NOTE: ----This dealership has an "outstanding service department". This is the reason why we are on our fourth Honda. If you do not want to change oil and filters at 3,000 miles and use fuel additives, don't do it!!!! But on the other side of the issue, don't take the point of view that these products do not accomplish anything. The Honda dealer that I deal with seems to think that they have merit. I will bet, that you do not take vitamins, because you think that they are a waste of money too. What is nice about this GREAT country of ours is that everyone has an opinion on everything, even though some opinions are not based on sound facts, information and logic. Having said that, you have a nice day, and remember, do not use any additives in your oil and fuel, and keep you oil in your engine for 10,000 miles. As you believe, additives are a waste of money. -----Greg

bodble2

I would have to go with auburn on this one for the following reasons:

1. From his numerous posts on TH, it is apparent the man knows what he's talking about.
2. He works in the industry, so he is intrinsically involved in the maintenance of engines.
3. He has professional and personal anecdotal evidence to back it up.

imidazol97

Please show me the website for your dealer or a written statement that they recommend using Krex Fuel System / Engine Oil Graphite additive. I'd like to see what Honda Motors says if I pass on the information to Honda. My question to Honda is does Honda support their dealer recommending additives and does Honda state they warranty the engines, etc., where additives have been used by their dealerships.

 Gregory1 says, "But on the other side of the issue, don't take the point of view that these products do not accomplish anything..." and I have to agree with Gregory1only on one minor detail only:. The additives are a _transfer device_: they transfer Greg's money to the dealership, by adding on to Greg's bill each oil change..., grin....

  One of my grad school roomies has worked for a major engine oil related company. I'm writing to him to ask about the additives. His specialty was organic chem. I'll post any comments he has...

deyounk

We have a `98 Accord EX-V6. It has very low mileage, but it's making clunking noises in the transmission. I know this is a very common problem, but when the dealer looked at it they couldn't find anything wrong. What should I do? What have other people had to do to fix this problem?

Thanks

bodble2

When you're shifting from Park to Drive, Drive to Reverse, etc. or when the transmission is shifting when the car is in motion?

blane

Any dealer that pushes any oil or fuel additive that is not required or recommended by the vehicle manufacturer is padding their bill. Nothing more. It's just another profit center.

I've had occasion to demand that the price of such unwanted snake oil be removed from my bills once or twice. It was. They know when they've been found out. But, it's surely worth doing if people don't know enough to complain.

auburn63

Honda has asked their dealers not to use additives. We used to use a fuel additive that promised great things but Honda asked us to stop and so we did but not all dealers stop. Fuel itself has alot of additives in it all ready and changing up gas brands evry now and then is all you need to do. But if you want the feel of added security or you just feel better I have no problems with that. You have to do whats best for you..

auburn63

Glad to see that it all worked out ok for you. Sometimes those instructions are not clear enough or exact enough. I like the look of them also, good luck

gregoryc1

I enjoyed reading your posting. QUESTION: ---Are you the "Additive Police for Honda"? You want to report my Honda dealer to Honda!!!! (I would NEVER permit this to happen)! At the present time, I am looking at a service mailing that offers service specials for mileage intervals of 7,500, 15,000, and 30,000 miles. Within each of these packages, they install Krex Graphite Lubricant, and Krex Fuel System & Injector Cleaner. In addition, the dealer recommends oil and filter changes every 3,750 miles. (The cost for an oil and filter service is $18.99 + tax). I don't think that this is "TOO EXPENSIVE" for some high quality / state of the art preventive maintenance. This "Service Announcement" is a very expensive color brochure, so as such, I am VERY sure that HONDA knows all about this offering. The two additives cost $4.70 each. An oil change at the above listed intervals, (with the two additives), would cost $28.39 + tax. This is hardly a "budget breaker"! If you do not believe in "additives" both in the fuel and in the oil, DO NOT USE THEM! But the fact that YOU do not belive in them, does not mean that they do not contribute to the efficient operation of the component. If you want to extend your oil and filter changes, that is your choice, but that does not indicate that this practice is a "sound preventive maintenance procedure". It is simply a personal choice on your part. In life everyone is entitled to their own opinion on a variety of subjects. You have one opinion, and I have another. So lets agree to disagree!-------Greg

mikek37

I think you guys should meet up and ARM WRESTLE eachother!

bburton3

Had several dealers to try and sell me on getting my FI system cleaned with a 3M product. This occured while I was getting some warranty emissions work done-one young tech who really knew his stuff-watched him working on my car-tried to sell me this package-think it was around $250 or so-said it would make my idle smoother cause the FI system had carbon in it. Put the best DSMG possible on and then asked-what is your spiff-think it was $30 or $50. He grinned also-can't blame him-as old pt said-there is one born every minute-kinda fun to have someone try to hustle you.

The snake oil crowd is having a real marketing problem-their adherents are leaving the scene-the biological imperative we all face and new people are not coming into the market. I still really liked some of the teflon additive products ads-read about one of the guys in that business-he had over 20 years of launching snake oil products in his career-he was from the south-wonder if he wore white belts and shoes-like the eevangelical preachers i used to marvel at when living in the south. If you want to see some really slick selling-go to a tent revival meeting some time-wow these guys could sell snake oil to an engineer.

spud41

Honda does not recommend or approve of any fuel/engine/transmission/coolant flushes. Dealers are independently owned and have the option to sell such products. Honda has the option to deny warranty claims.

martylaw

I have noticed a creaking sound when turning the steering wheel at low speeds. Has anyone out there had the same problem? Is there a fix? Can the steering rack be lubricated or adjusted?

hud59

Kokane 5227, I installed the factory fog lights on
my pristine 95 EX wagon and they didn't work either? The switch lighted up and everything. However, when I installed the wiring harness on the engine side, I decided the replacement screws for grounding the harness weren't needed and simply used the existing screws, Big mistake. Evidently, they are a certain alloy NOT good for
grounding electricity. After litteraly checking everything, I finally decided to use the screws supplied in the kit and "Voila". They work perfectly. Just a suggestion in case you made my mistake.

rogrdat213

A long story short:
Car: 02 Accord EX-V6
 
   I recently had an accident which caused some damage to the front passenger sides as a result of which the front passenger side suspension, door, wheel, etc had to be replaced. Also, the ABS sensor had to be replaced.

   I now have the car after the work has been done. The car looks new (it is almost) but I feel that I have to apply a lot of pressure to see the brakes respond. The body shop guy tells me that they didn't bleed the brakes or any thing like that, just disconnected the calipers from the rotors and put them back.

  While work was being on the car I have been driving a 03 Altima (Rental) whose brakes are great (stops on a dime).

  My question is this, is there something wrong with my brakes or is it that I haven't yet adjusted to the car after body work has been done (its 48hrs since I got the car back) ? But I clearly see that I have to apply a lot of extra force to have the brakes respond.

Your replies would be greatly appreciated..,

auburn63

Try a panic stop in an open area with your seat belt on and see if the ABS works and how the brakes feel and stop. It may just be that you need to readjust to your car but it maybe a hanging caliper pin or other problem. If not sure about it then go and have a brake system check at your dealer. Alot of them will do it for free...

azspyder1

My Camry xle v6 (top of line) is 80,000 miles and 6 years old. I had hoped to buy a Honda ex v6 (top of line)to replace the toyota, as I liked the idea of a 5 speed autotranny, and the 03 Toyota looks too much like my '97. The numerous complaints about torque steer, rattles in the dash, clicks and groans in the body window rattles,dead batteries, make me leary. (my camry has NEVER been in any shop for any servicing except for new tires at 45000. (I change the oil and filter) Am I likely to be disappoited with a Honda, or do you think these complaints are isolated instances. .

snowman

If you are putting more pressure than what you used to this indicates that there is air in the system. In order for them to pull the calippers out, pistons must be pushed back, this creates overflow in brake fluid compartment (master Cynl.compartment) therefore some fluid must be taken out.
When they are putting the calippers back and adjusting the pedals, if they forget to put new brake fluid (the same amount that they took out) into Master Cylinder compartment air will go into system. Same thing happens if you are not quick enough to fill the compartment. Just get brake system flush or get them bled again.

tony258

Hey guys, this is my first time posting but I love to read what you guys have to say. But now I have a problem so I come to you for an answer. I drive a '03 LX-V6 and I've notice that after only 500 miles on the car, the mileage is becoming a problem. The other day I filled the tank up and reset the meter and I noticed that at about 68 miles, the fuel gauge was already a third of the way down. At that rate, I would be getting maybe 200 miles out of a tank...I've already noticed that I've been spending a lot of money trying to keep gas in the car but I think I may have a real problem...is it just a bad gauge or is the mileage on my car that bad?