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Comments
I can't find any mention of this in the manual.
The noise goes away after the first or second time I hit the brakes. It happens even at very light initial stops.
Any advice is appreciated.
P.S. -- The car is fabulous in all other regards!
If the RPM continues to rise and/or fluctuates while in P or N, you need to have the dealer look at it because of possible safety implications. Hope this helps.
It's not a big deal and three or four brake applications will rub the rust coating off.
Can someone please tell me what the hell is that noise, its pissing me off to the point that I put the stereo loud just so I dont hear the noise.
PS. "THE CLICKING NOISE THAT I HEAR IS NOT THE SAME NOISE YOU HEAR WHEN YOU JUST CHANGE GEARS, ITS SOMETHING ELSE"
1) Purchase Honda shop manual via ebay or new from helminc.com. Perhaps most important step you will make for DIY work. Excellent manual w/ good illustrations and pictures.
2) If mileage exceeds 90K and you can't verify the timing belts, balance shaft seal and seal retainer, and water pump have been replaced, you should perform this maintenance as first priority.
3) Change the transmission fluid per instructions and use Honda ATF, if equipped w/ autotransmission.
4) Replace antifreeze w/ long life Prestone or other high quaility antifreeze. Honda also distributes an antifreeze product.
5) Bleed/flush all brake lines and replace w/ new brake fluid.
6) Change oil and filter.
7) Remove inlet air duct and clean throttle body in place w/ spay throttle body cleaner and old toothbrush.
8) Replace PCV if mileage/time unknown.
9)Check the boots on the front half-axles.
Hope you find this useful. BTW for your vibration issue, you might take a look at the motor/trans mounts.
There is an emissions system recall on 97 I4 accords-it is good till you hit 150K. You can get plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, oil and filter change free of charge. If you have not had this service-get it done before u hit 150K-honda plug wires and cap are not cheap. Also if you have any emissions problems-ie CEL alert-honda will fix it free of charge even after u get the above freebies as long as u have less than 150K on the clock. Honda replaced several parts of my emissions system before they finally replaced the O2 sensor -that is a $200+ item also - Honda's price. Use all ur bennies
Specifically, I think it's the windshield defroster vents that are rattling behing the instrument cluster.
If it requires just tightening, is it a job I could do myself? Anybody know anywhere on the web where I can find pics of the inside of the dash to attempt to do it myself. I would take it to the dealer, but I'm sure it will end up costing a few hundred bucks to fix it.
I know a lot of people question Honda's quality, and they certainly aren't perfect (what is?), but my previous car was a '97 Civic with 70K miles. I bought it in HS and kind of ragged it (and crashed it once), but it never let me down and ran like a champ until I sold it for 40% of it's original value. If I had bought a Neon or a Sentra I probably would have been lucky to get 20-30%.
My cousin bought a Jetta 1.8T recently, nice little car. However, it has given him so many problems that he is trying to get VW to buy it back under the lemon law. He now wants to get an Accord like mine.
I know there have been some issues with the new Accord, but at least the windows aren't falling into the door and the engines aren't failing.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
A Alternator at 85K miles? I don't consider that normal. It should last much longer. As for american cars only lasting 30K, that's Bull. I have a Lincoln Town Car in the driveway with 180K miles with original alternator.
1400 puny miles and no real rattles yet...
Be easy, try to keep the Internet bulletin board thing in proper context.
PS. Thanks bburton3 for replying to my previous msg.
I've got a question and am asking for help.
My new LX V6 has a hot key after stop-and-go traffic. Is it normal? Lugwrench says it may indicate wiring problem and suggests me asking technical advice from you.
Thanks a lot.
The most common cause of warped rotors is people using air driven impact wrenches to tighten lug nuts-never let anyone use those things on your vehicle-those things called torque sticks which are supposed to keep the impact wrenches from overtorquing your lug nuts don't work IMHO. I take my $175 snap on click type torque wrench and make the tire jockeys use it on my lug nuts while I watch.
Rotors can be warped by hitting large water puddles when the rotors are really wet but in 20+ years of driving honda's-never happened to me-torque wrenches every time.
And greg is right. An inexpensive beam type torque wrench will do the job just as well as the 175.00 one.
Wonder if you had some idea about my problem.
1-month new 2003 LX V6 AT with just 650 miles. Sometimes the car key is quite warm after the trip, though not so hot that I could not even touch it. Dealer told me it was normal. Don't quite buy it.
Thanks again.
I posted a message earlier about a grinding brake noise after the car sits for a bit.
Now the noise has intensified and happens even if it sits for only 20 minutes or so, and even on warm, dry days (someone posited that it might be condensation or rust buildup).
It happens the first three or four times I put on the brakes after the car has been turned off. Not only does it make the horrible noise, but it also takes longer to stop. On a grade, such as in a parking garage, the car actually skids forward a bit, which is alarming.
The dealer agrees that it's abnormal. They have called Honda Engineering in California to see what to do. The dealer doesn't seem to have an answer. At least they're admitting it's a problem...
Has anyone else had this problem? There are only 750 miles on the car. I've never had a car with ABS before (not sure that it's worth it), so I don't have any experience with this.
No warning lights have come on.
Any advice/input is appreciated.
I'll post if anything else sounds weird.
The dealer claims that it is ok to drive the car in the meantime and they have lubed this and tightened that as a temporary fix. Since it only happens the first few times I use the brakes (usually at light stops), it seems like it's ok to drive.
I'll see if I can get more specific information about the problem from the dealer. If anyone has dealt with this problem and had it fixed, it would be great to know how it was resolved.
He said that the problem lies with the noise insulator pad for the brakes. Since the problem is widespread, Honda has apparently redesigned the insulator pad for the four-cylinder models, but is still working on a redesign for the six-cylinder models.
As a temporary fix, the dealer added a composite goo that supposedly hardens to provide a measure of noise insulation. The brakes don't make the noise now, but I don't know how long that will last.
I am supposed to check back in a few weeks to see whether Honda has come up with a fix (I guess it would be just too difficult for them to get in touch with me
I really don't know enough about brake operation and design to know whether this sounds logical.
When I hear about the permanent fix from Honda, I'll post the information.
It's disappointing to have this happen with a new car, but it's just a machine, and Honda seems to be doing something about it.
>>>With all the things that could possibly go wrong with this Honda, he feels that a set of brakes should last more than 60,000 miles, and an alternator should last more than 85,000 miles. These expectations are not reasonable for these two items.<<<<
I agree with you on the brake pads-since I go through my fronts about every 25K miles and rears about every 35K miles on cars I've owned so far. I do think he's unreasonable on that count and my advice to him would be to drive even slower than he already is. The Alternator I agree somewhat on. I guess 85K is a reasonable lifespan for a alternator, but I have never had one go bad on any car in my household before 100K miles.
Could you kindly explain what kind of noise and under what condition does it happen. I see you said every 03 Accord has the problem.
Thanks.