Might need a another repaint, based on my limited experience in this area. The little experience I have was repainting a small area of my son's Montero, where - following instructions - I allowed each layer of primer and paint to dry totally between coats. Result was almost perfect, and there was no dulling.
Another cause of dulling I'm aware of, other than not drying the layers, is primer/paint material that's incompatible with the original paint.
Might as well go to a quality bodyshop to have this done properly once and for all. Since they'll probably repaint the whole bumper to avoid paint mismatch, the tab may not be cheap. It'll pay off when the next buyer of your car won't be able to bring it up as an issue.
As I wrote in my 1st 4 days message, I drove my Accord first time on the highway last night. I didn't go above 65, although I was very tempted. The engine is under 2000 rpm while going 60.
As for the pillars, I think there is a problem with the c-pillar. It is way too thick and causes blind spots. Just be more cautious if you decide to drive or buy this Accord model.
Also, I don't think it's because of the airbags that affect the pillars. I believe the pillars are of the same size on all Accords.
i think 18-19 is extremely low although i guess if you're in constantly below freezing temps, and drive only short distances without warming up, you may see those numbers.
in CA, where its never really cold, the worst tank we've seen on our EX I4 2003 Accord has been 23 mpg...which was purely stop and go city driving. overall, we see typically 27-28...on pure highway (only one such trip), we saw 36-37 driving 70-75 MPH. these numbers were all achieved in the first 4000 miles of ownership.
The blind spots should be directly perpendicular to where you're facing, that is, right at the front windows. When I change lanes, I only look to the sides. You should be able to see around the C-pillars by using the side mirrors.
Update on a previous posted problem. Had a motor mount replaced at the advice of two different places. Did not take care of the problem at all. Noise is getting very loud particularly at these times. On a hill when just taking off. If I keep the car at very light throttle I can keep the noise going indefinitely. Stops when I gain speed but gets real loud again at 1800-2000 RPM and is much louder on hills. Sometimes get it when backing up or idling. Had the heat shield checked twice. This started as one of those noises you barely notice about a year ago and now has reached the point where my wife doesn't want to drive the car. I cant seem to here it when I stand outside the car. I'm taking it back to the Honda place that put the motor mount in on Monday. When I mentioned the short pipe exhaust noise problem as a possibility the Honda shop said that it only applied to the 94-96 models and not the 97. Any of you had the sort pipe buzz fix done on a 97? I'm really bummed out. This has been a great car until now. Now it looks like I have an expensive motor mount I didnt need and more repairs ahead. I wish I had picked up the car instead of my wife. She was in a hurry and didnt drive it before paying. auburn63, bburton1, anyone else I need your help again. My thanks for your previous efforts and any in the future.
Took delivery of our '03 Accord EX V6 almost 3 weeks ago and just have some nit-picky problems which we took back to the dealer to rectify, and were far from happy with the service. Wondering if I'm alone... First off, while driving it will slightly pull to the right. The dealer tried to convince us it was just during acceleration, and that was normal due to the torque. But it happens at constant speed on a level surface. Secondly, does anyone else notice the rattle coming from the mirrors in the sun visors? Also, within the first 30 seconds to a minute of starting the car we hear and feel a short, quick grinding coming from under the driver's floorboard. The service manager thought we were crazy, but wrote it down. When we picked up the car, both items showed "test driven, could not duplicate problem". Well guess what, they also record the mileage in and out, and we made note of it ourselves--the mileage was the same! We'll be going to another Honda dealer from now on. After doing some research, I was wondering if the grinding noise is coming from an ABS check system...any thoughts? But the alignment and mirrors rattling still annoy me. And in response to an earlier post, I also notice a creaking noise coming from the back right seat. I think it's just the seat belts resonating off the leather. Not quite as annoying ;-)
I experience the same grinding/groaning within the first 30 seconds with my '03 Accord EX V6. I just assumed that it was the ABS system check, but I'm not sure... my 2000 EX V6 had the whirring sound that was the ABS system check on that model, but that sound is missing here.
A few weeks ago, I posted my concern that my car seems sluggish and tired. It's very hard to describe, but it just doesn't feel as peppy as when I first bought the car. The engine is very loud and I can feel the loudness in my foot when accelerating, primarily once I hit 40 mph. It's as though something is grinding and I can feel it in the gas pedal. I can also hear my engine over the radio (and I listen to very loud music). That didn't happen the first 1000 miles. I know my description of the problem is vague, but that's the only way I can describe it. That's why I haven't gone to the dealer yet. I know they'll look at me like I'm insane.
Also, I've heard conflicting opinions regarding whether to use primarily the highest octane gas. I thought using the highest octane would bring the life back to my car, but that doesn't seem to do it. Some people say that the highest octane isn't good for all cars. Others say it is the only way to go. I'm completely clueless in that department, so obviously need some help.
Otherwise, the other issues have been resolved and I'm quite happy with the car, despite the fit I threw on this board a few weeks ago. But definitely want that quiet and smooth ride back.
The only time I ever experienced something like that with a car was a bunch of years ago with a VW Rabbit... it turned out that the catalytic converter had shattered and was blocking the exhaust system.
You shouldn't be hearing the engine over a loud stereo in that car, so I'd go to the dealer post haste. Take the service manager for a test ride and demonstrate the noise. If they try to brush you off, demand to take another ride in a comparable demo and show that the noise doesn't happen.
...that your car had premium gas when you took delivery ?
If this was the case, performance would be top-notch until the next fill-up, which presumably was with regular unleaded.
How much of regular was in the tank when you put in premium ? If 1/3 full, you'd still not get that off-the-lot performance you got initiated to.
Obviously this is all hypothetical. But my 03 V-6 coupe is not as snappy as it was on day 1, like yours. I'll probably refill with premium next chance, with tank nearest to empty as possible, and see how it runs.
I've been thru that with my previous Accord... someone suggested that I try premium, that it would make a difference. I did, it didn't. I know you mean well, but I was skeptical then, and totally unconvinced now. And I'm aware of Mr. Baker's "extra 10 hp with premium" comment... I'm still not convinced.
And aren't we kind of sending lawgirl down the garden path with this premium gas stuff? The engine roaring over the stereo at 40 isn't going to be helped by switching from regular to premium, I can guarantee it. Again, I realize that you mean well, but the bottom line is that she needs to get the car to the dealer ASAP.
Unfortunately, I do not know whether my car had premium when I took delivery. When I asked the salesman what gas I should use, he said regular is fine, but he would recommend premium every three or so fill-ups. I did use regular a few times after I took delivery, but then on third fill-up used premium. Even while using regular, the car was great. The last four fill-ups have been premium, and now sluggish and tired.
"The last four fill-ups have been premium, and now sluggish and tired."
Good, I'm glad to hear that you've already gotten that out of the way. I'm not at all surprised that it didn't help, since the symptoms you described didn't sound at all like insufficient octane.
All I can do is to urge you to take it in to the dealer ASAP, before the problem gets worse, or a more catastrophic breakdown occurs and leaves you stranded somewhere.
I completely agree. There is a problem with her car. She needs to bring it in.
As with your past accord, you are correct. Whom ever reccomended that you put premium in, well was a fool. Sutides have shown, for pre-2003 models(accords), the car actually preformed worse.
But, with the new 2003 V6, when the car is using regular gas, due to the higher compression and lower octane rating, the spark is retarded( hence lowering the actually power derived from burning the fuel). I remember reading an article that interviewed one of the lead engineers from Honda. He stated that the V6 will experience a 10hp increase and 8 lb torque when premium is used.
Yes, I saw that too... that's my Mr. Baker comment. He was the lead engineer on the 2003 Accord, and the word came from him.
That's OK... I think I'll still pass. I've seen several comments from other automotive experts who express strong skepticism about the claim... they basically pass it off as marketing hype. Besides with the breathtaking performance on regular gas, I can't imagine that the extra money would really be worth it even if it did work.
That's my take on it... obviously, YMMV, and it seems that it already has. <g>
Unfortunately, I do not know whether my car had premium when I took delivery. When I asked the salesman what gas I should use, he said regular is fine, but he would recommend premium every three or so fill-ups. I did use regular a few times after I took delivery, but then on third fill-up used premium. Even while using regular, the car was great. The last four fill-ups have been premium, and now sluggish and tired.
The pull in your car is probably the tires. If the dealer does the alignment and it still pulls I would suggest you start rotating the tires and keep a record what you have done. It drove me nuts in my 2002 Coupe, I even replaced the tires and finally found a configuration that is almost perfect. Good luck
Auburn63, I have just replaced the brake pads on my son's 91 Accord LX. The right outside pad was worn down to metal, inside pad at about 10%. Both left pads were at approx. 25%. Do you know what may have caused the right pads to wear so much more than the left?
Hi, I have a '99 accord with 67,000 miles...here are my problems my engine light has come on...it rained very hard yesterday so i went to put the car in the garage the head lights would'nt come on??? I opened the hood and checked the light's then closed the hood the right light came on???? then i jiggled the left light then it came on now when i turn the light's on one or the other dosent come on...when I hit the top of the hood they pop on?? now I hear a squeak over the right rear tire when the car roll over a bump or a dip in the road help!!!
I know the service bulletin ends in 1996 and I am not for sure if the exhaust are the same or not without taking a look but your complaint sounds exactly the same..I would have them atleast look into it but if I can get a peek first then I will get back to you..
Hello, Well first thing that comes to mind is a sticky caliper pin or two. When they hang a bot they wear out the outside pad as well as keep some presure on the inside but not as much. This will cause the wear pattern you discribed. Other than that the system is a diagonal brake system so if you had a problem with the left rear it would also show up on the front right in some cases..But chances are the caliper slide pins were a little stuck due to the greese caking up a bit...Was the caliper bolts hard to get out or did they pull right out? nice to hear from you again..
I too purchased a 2003 Honda Accord EX V6 only 2 weeks ago. The radio died on me three days after I purchased the car and the car pulls to the right. Service manager claims that I damaged the car and wants me to pay out of pocket to have the control arm replaced. I find it completely unbelievable that I am having so many problems so soon. I am very disappointed in the car thus far. Has anyone else experience similar problems?
Just bought a 99 Accord EX-L 5-speed with 30,000 miles. Owned a 91 Accord and a 99 Prelude previous to this Accord. Problem 1: its barely quieter on the highway than my Prelude. The Prelude had tire noise and so does the Accord, but the Accord also has lots of wind noise from around the front pillars, at least above 75mph or so. Id expect the Accord to cruise much more quietly than the Prelude. Problem 2: I just took a 400mile road trip, all highway, from Boston to Saratoga NY. Temperature was around 40 degrees. Average speed going there was 68, coming back 71. Cruise control used most of the time, mostly set on 76 there and about 78 coming back. My average mpg for the trip was 29.7, which seems low to me. The EPA ratings are 25/31, and from experience, an all highway driving trip tends to average slightly above the highway rating. I was expecting around 33 or so in this car. My 91 Accord could average about 34 on a highway trip (EPA 24/30) and the Prelude around 30 (EPA 22/27). The same gas was used as I always buy. ANy owners of this generation comment on these aspects of their car? Thanks.
could be faulty ignition coils...not producing enough voltage....I had the exact same problem with my non-honda japanese car. I was in no position to describe it to the dealer, but then six months after I started experiencing the symptoms, the coils finally degraded enough to set off the CEL. Then the dealer replaced the ignition coil + wires. Works better now.
I too purchased a 2003 Honda Accord EX V6 only 2 weeks ago. The radio died on me three days after I purchased the car and the car pulls to the right. Service manager claims that I damaged the car and wants me to pay out of pocket to have the control arm replaced. I find it completely unbelievable that I am having so many problems so soon. I am very disappointed in the car thus far. Has anyone else experience similar problems?
Can you ask him to prove that you damaged the car? If not, tell him to fix it or bring it to another dealer.
I just bought an 03' Accord LX V6 two weeks ago. Wonder how I can find out the exact manufacture date of it. Since I am quite worried about the problems about the broken timing belt on V6.
I have a 2K Accord V6 Coupe. I had a couple of questions for people who may know this.
1) What part of the Accord's seats are actually leather?
2) My car has only 38K miles on it, and is garage kept. yesterday when cleaning and moisturizing the leather, I noticed the leather or vinyl starting to tear on the outside side bolsters of both front seats Has anyone else had this problem?
Sounds like most of the problems that are being described in these threads, are for the V6 Coupe. I have the 2003 EX-L 4 Cylinder Sedan and am having no problems at all.
I know this does not solve your problem but it is a funny story. My wife and I were out driving new cars to decide what to purchase. We were driving a Honda LX model and the car kept pulling to the right. When I mentioned this to the salesman his exact words were, and I kid you not " You know they make cars now so they pull to the right, that way if you fall asleep you won't drift into oncoming traffic." I guess trees, buildings, etc. are better! Well we went to another dealer and drove another. Guess what? It pulled to the right also. At least this time we didnt' get some ignorant excuse. I guess this made me a little leery of this first year model. I sure hope they solve your problems. I had luck in the past in going directly with my complaints to Honda Motor company . I would certainly try that if I had to. Oh, I bought a Camry. They were giving the suckers away, and financing me for virtually nothing. No pulling and no rattles, yet! Just my opinion but I think many of the new models have this problem and Honda should be fixing it and owning up to it. My 97 Accord tracks perfect down the road with 86K on it and it's never had to be aligned.
Had car at the dealer all day today. Guess what, now they say it was the short pipe after all! They took it off and adjusted it, noise is not gone but back to about where it started a year ago. The Service Manager is gone on vacation until Wednesday when I guess we'll have it out over the $300 dollar motor mount job I didnt' need. [non-permissible content removed]. Manager is telling me it was bad anyway. Said it was a special one with vacuum to adjust vibrations in the engine, and the vacuum was not working when they checked it. All I know is that it does not seem to have been the noise problem. Man I can hardly believe this since I personally mentioned the exhaust issue before the motor mount was ever done. What is the responsibility of the dealer here? Any suggestions on how to handle this?
I guess the way I would go with this is to have the talk with the manager stating that you wanted the exhaust noise looked at and got a miss diagnoses for your complaint. The repair they sold you was for a vibration that would mostly be felt(not heard) at idle in gear. Since the repair made no change in your original compaint, the fact that it was bad or not is besides the point and should have been sold as a add on repair. The fact that you asked to have the exhaust checked and was not checked is the real issue.. Good luck
I never owned a Honda Accord but I am considering buying one so I am checking these posts. In reference to a car pulling to the right, this can be caused by improper camber/caster alignment settings, but also a bad tire. I had the same problem with a brand new 99 Mazda 626 V6 which was pulling slightly to the right. The alignment was correct, but the right front tire was defective. After replacing the tire under warranty, the car tracked fine. Of course, I had to go to several dealers because I was initially told that my car is tracking properly. I finally found a decent dealership which found and fixed the problem. I guess persistence pays off, but it can be very frustrating and time consuming.
Has anyone else noticed the harsh ride? My V6 has less than 600 miles on it but already I am starting to notice a change in the ride. I can feel every crack in the road sometimes even announced by a thump. I have experimented with changing the air pressure in the tires to no avail. I just can't believe that they are marketing this as a luxury car when my Pilot and my friends Mustang with competition suspension are both much smoother.
Thanks for the replies. By the way my car is an 2003 EX V6 Sedan... I don't know if that makes a difference or anything. I am going to see if rotating the front tires will help. I read that few people had good results by doing this. I want to try whatever I can before letting them take the car apart.
Switch the tires on the front left and right. IF the pull moves to the left now, you know you have a bad front tire. IF the pull stays to the right, switch the two back tires. If the pull stays on the right, then you have a car problem not a tire problem. Last check is to switch back tires to the front. Your dealer should be doing all these moves and driving the car in between to see if the tires make a difference.
I also noticed several times when the car was just started and a grinding noise seemed to come from the right front of the car. Sounds like two metal balls scratching each other.
As for the pulling right thing, I noticed it too after reading posting here. That is crazy to me to happen for a brand new car. There should not be any problem to the alignment or the tire.
Go Orange! Finally, we have something to cheer about in Syracuse.
When I read the manual, it says "You will feel a pulsation in the brake pedal when the ABS activates, and you may hear some noise". However, it says "you will need to press on the brake pedal very hard before you activate the ABS". So is the noise I heard ABS noise? I certainly do not brake hard at all but I do hear the noise on dry road, though not every time.
The Honda place is offering to do the exhaust work free. What exactly does this involve? I want to make sure on what they are telling me. What is the usual cost to get the exhaust "buzz" fix done? I think I am going to push for a little more work thrown in if the exhaust work is not very expensive. What do you think is fair cost wise?
But the question is... what is the noise supposed to sound like? On my 2000, it was a whirring sound that lasted about a second, and it usually happened as I was backing out of my garage. No sound like that from my 2003.
Comments
Another cause of dulling I'm aware of, other than not drying the layers, is primer/paint material that's incompatible with the original paint.
Might as well go to a quality bodyshop to have this done properly once and for all. Since they'll probably repaint the whole bumper to avoid paint mismatch, the tab may not be cheap. It'll pay off when the next buyer of your car won't be able to bring it up as an issue.
As for the pillars, I think there is a problem with the c-pillar. It is way too thick and causes blind spots. Just be more cautious if you decide to drive or buy this Accord model.
Also, I don't think it's because of the airbags that affect the pillars. I believe the pillars are of the same size on all Accords.
in CA, where its never really cold, the worst tank we've seen on our EX I4 2003 Accord has been 23 mpg...which was purely stop and go city driving. overall, we see typically 27-28...on pure highway (only one such trip), we saw 36-37 driving 70-75 MPH. these numbers were all achieved in the first 4000 miles of ownership.
That's the only one of your issues that mine has.
Also, I've heard conflicting opinions regarding whether to use primarily the highest octane gas. I thought using the highest octane would bring the life back to my car, but that doesn't seem to do it. Some people say that the highest octane isn't good for all cars. Others say it is the only way to go. I'm completely clueless in that department, so obviously need some help.
Otherwise, the other issues have been resolved and I'm quite happy with the car, despite the fit I threw on this board a few weeks ago. But definitely want that quiet and smooth ride back.
Any help would be great.
You shouldn't be hearing the engine over a loud stereo in that car, so I'd go to the dealer post haste. Take the service manager for a test ride and demonstrate the noise. If they try to brush you off, demand to take another ride in a comparable demo and show that the noise doesn't happen.
Best of luck...
Here's a good link that addresses the "premium is always better" myth:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
If this was the case, performance would be top-notch until the next fill-up, which presumably was with regular unleaded.
How much of regular was in the tank when you put in premium ? If 1/3 full, you'd still not get that off-the-lot performance you got initiated to.
Obviously this is all hypothetical. But my 03 V-6 coupe is not as snappy as it was on day 1, like yours. I'll probably refill with premium next chance, with tank nearest to empty as possible, and see how it runs.
And aren't we kind of sending lawgirl down the garden path with this premium gas stuff? The engine roaring over the stereo at 40 isn't going to be helped by switching from regular to premium, I can guarantee it. Again, I realize that you mean well, but the bottom line is that she needs to get the car to the dealer ASAP.
Good, I'm glad to hear that you've already gotten that out of the way. I'm not at all surprised that it didn't help, since the symptoms you described didn't sound at all like insufficient octane.
All I can do is to urge you to take it in to the dealer ASAP, before the problem gets worse, or a more catastrophic breakdown occurs and leaves you stranded somewhere.
As with your past accord, you are correct. Whom ever reccomended that you put premium in, well was a fool. Sutides have shown, for pre-2003 models(accords), the car actually preformed worse.
But, with the new 2003 V6, when the car is using regular gas, due to the higher compression and lower octane rating, the spark is retarded( hence lowering the actually power derived from burning the fuel). I remember reading an article that interviewed one of the lead engineers from Honda. He stated that the V6 will experience a 10hp increase and 8 lb torque when premium is used.
That's OK... I think I'll still pass. I've seen several comments from other automotive experts who express strong skepticism about the claim... they basically pass it off as marketing hype. Besides with the breathtaking performance on regular gas, I can't imagine that the extra money would really be worth it even if it did work.
That's my take on it... obviously, YMMV, and it seems that it already has. <g>
I'll definitely be taking my car to the dealer. Let's just hope I don't get the run-around.
If the dealer does the alignment and it still pulls I would suggest you start rotating the tires and keep a record what you have done.
It drove me nuts in my 2002 Coupe, I even replaced the tires and finally found a configuration that is almost perfect.
Good luck
then i jiggled the left light then it came on now when i turn the light's on one or the other dosent come on...when I hit the top of the hood they pop on??
now I hear a squeak over the right rear tire when the car roll over a bump or a dip in the road help!!!
Well first thing that comes to mind is a sticky caliper pin or two. When they hang a bot they wear out the outside pad as well as keep some presure on the inside but not as much. This will cause the wear pattern you discribed. Other than that the system is a diagonal brake system so if you had a problem with the left rear it would also show up on the front right in some cases..But chances are the caliper slide pins were a little stuck due to the greese caking up a bit...Was the caliper bolts hard to get out or did they pull right out? nice to hear from you again..
Problem 2: I just took a 400mile road trip, all highway, from Boston to Saratoga NY. Temperature was around 40 degrees. Average speed going there was 68, coming back 71. Cruise control used most of the time, mostly set on 76 there and about 78 coming back. My average mpg for the trip was 29.7, which seems low to me. The EPA ratings are 25/31, and from experience, an all highway driving trip tends to average slightly above the highway rating. I was expecting around 33 or so in this car. My 91 Accord could average about 34 on a highway trip (EPA 24/30) and the Prelude around 30 (EPA 22/27). The same gas was used as I always buy. ANy owners of this generation comment on these aspects of their car? Thanks.
Then the dealer replaced the ignition coil + wires. Works better now.
Can you ask him to prove that you damaged the car? If not, tell him to fix it or bring it to another dealer.
I am a newcomer to this discussion group.
I just bought an 03' Accord LX V6 two weeks ago. Wonder how I can find out the exact manufacture date of it. Since I am quite worried about the problems about the broken timing belt on V6.
By the way, what is A-pillar?
Thanks for the help.
1) What part of the Accord's seats are actually leather?
2) My car has only 38K miles on it, and is garage kept. yesterday when cleaning and moisturizing the leather, I noticed the leather or vinyl starting to tear on the outside side bolsters of both front seats Has anyone else had this problem?
I love my car.
The "A" pillar is the front-most roof pillar (the one attached to the windshield).
IF the pull moves to the left now, you know you have a bad front tire. IF the pull stays to the right, switch the two back tires. If the pull stays on the right, then you have a car problem not a tire problem.
Last check is to switch back tires to the front.
Your dealer should be doing all these moves and driving the car in between to see if the tires make a difference.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As for the pulling right thing, I noticed it too after reading posting here. That is crazy to me to happen for a brand new car. There should not be any problem to the alignment or the tire.
Go Orange! Finally, we have something to cheer about in Syracuse.
Can anybody help? Thanks.
My non-Honda car with ABS doesn't make any noises after start up.