And if you don't regularly slalom and brake test your Accord they are above average sets of tires. That's why they are OEM. I have a set of MXV4's on my GS300 and love em so much I just Ebay'd a new set last week.
My point is that no one can identify if the problems of the Accord are from an engineering design problem or from a factory assembly line flaw. If it's an engineering design problem, then most Accords should experience that problem to some degree. Since only some people complain about rattles or A-pillar problems, then we need to know from what assembly line their car came from. If all owners stated where there car was built, I think we could see a trend and put the blame at the factory, not the engineering efforts of Honda. If however, the complaints are from owners with cars built from both US and Japanese plants, then you can blame Honda for their shortcomings in engineering, and not point to a specific factory problem.
if anybody remember me from a while (i think it's a long time) ago, i used to complain about my car not running smoothly and that the power is never there when i need it, AND my car vibrates really bad when stopped with lights on or A/C on. well, it's been there since the day i drove the car off the dealer's lot in sep, 2001, i took the car bak for many many times and they always "found nothing wrong". after multiple attempts they started to ignore me as i stood in the service lane, that made me lose all my hope so i gave up, drove the car home and decided to love it the way it is. and may i remind u that i'm not crazy, my friend has an 02 i4 sedan and his car runs as smooth as silk. oh, btw, my engine/exhaust made a lot more noise as well, noise is vibration, and that just made my car seems so unrefined. so about 2 months ago i decided i wanna modify my car a little, for the fun of getting new stuff, so i got some aftermarket air intake system and cat-back exhaust, i did a lot of research before i purchased the stuff and i was in the accord performance forums a lot as well. therefore i learned that i should reset my ECU after putting in the intake/exhaust so the computer will learn the difference faster. so i did it. fast forward, about a week ago the sound of the intake/exhaust just really got to me, it got so annoying i just can't take it anymore, so i decided to go all the way bak to stock. as i exchanged bak to stock i didn't forget to reset the ECU again. and let me tell you, now my car runs just like my friend's 02 sedan, even better, the engine is silky smooth, now i just press the pedal a little and there's plenty of power to accelerate up to speed, and all the excessive noise is gone. stop here, before you tell me that i feel this way because of the difference going from aftermarket intake/exhaust bak to stock, IT'S NOT! i have been driving like this for a few days already, plus i drove my friend's 02 sedan again bak to bak and they drove the same. AND my car doesn't vibrate as much as it used to before, the vibration is still there, but it's much of it is reduced, i no longer feel like i'm forced to have a massage that i don't want. i still don't know what exactly was the thing that fixed my car, but i believe resetting ECU did plenty of good and it does no harm at all. maybe auburn63 can give a logical explanation of this miracle? and should i go teach the service ppl at the dealer a lesson? hehe, just kidding. nonetheless, i suggest everybody reset their ECU once in a while, you might notice something you like! =D
They were only made in Japan. I was astonished by the quiet, tight nature of that little car. When I went shopping for my current Accord in December of 2000, you can bet I was searching for a "J" and I found one.
I admit, I have a bias because of the success I've had with these cars. But, because of it, I look for "J"s when shopping for used cars also,whether it's Mazdas, Toyotas or Hondas.
Maybe it was just the luck of the draw, but I'm hooked on "J"s.
pull out the owner's manual, and look up the fuse box below the steering wheel on the left of the center dash, there is a fuse for ECU in there, just pull that fuse, wait for 30 sec then put it bak in and it will reset the ECU. ALTHOUGH i've never done it that way, i just pull the negative terminal on the battery and wait for about 10-15 mins then put it bak in. but this way you will have to reset all your radio settings and stations (you also need your radio code to get your radio working again). but i'm sure next time i will just pull the fuse, much more convinient. correct me if i'm wrong auburn63.
I had a "J" 99 Accord and a "1" 01 Accord and now an 03 Accord. Haven't had problems out of any of them. Although I had the 99 longer than the 01 and for 3 times the mileage so can't say for sure whether it would've been as problem-free. However, although reliability is TBD, my US built Accords seem to be just as solid and well-built as the Japanese one.
Has anyone else had a problem with their Homelink system from an 03 Accord EX V6? The range seems to be only 2 feet from the garage. Any further, it will not work. I have reprogrammed it 3 times, but no change.
Also I had a creek on my passenger side when starting from a standstill on hills. The dealer worked on the car for a week and replaced the front sping/shock and realigned the fender. That cured the problem.
I need help!....Last night I was driving my 03' Accord EX-V6 and I went over a bump, no damage just a regular bump in the road and the side curtain airbag popped and tore out of the roof completely destroying it and the seat airbag tore out of the seat completely destroying that too!! My whole car is now trashed, my ears are killing me because of the loud bang! Is this under warranty or do I have to go through the insurance???? PLEASE HELP WITH ADVICE!! Thanks!
Jeezus, I am sorry that happened. That just made me laugh out loud. I know it is serious and you are pissed, but that story is insane...simply insane. I cannot believe that happened.
Kindly read the following postings #4644 & 4646. This is only a suggestion. If you read through the postings on this board about the 2003 4 cylinder Accord, you will see that some owners are complaining about a vibration at idle. When I picked up my 2003 Accord I had a slight vibration at idle. Since I introduced MM oil the engine is vibration free and very smooth. I believe that the vibration is coming from fuel injectors that DO NOT close completely. This allows raw fuel to dribble into the cylinder. Fuel in this form CANNOT BURN. ---MM oil provides a lubricant for the fuel system components, and it also keep components clean. I am only offering this information for your consideration. You will read many opinions on the subject of "upper cylinder lubrication in fuel" on this board. My Honda dealer recommends a fuel system additive every 7,500 miles. I believe that the dealer understands the importance of fuel system component lubrication. In addition, if carbon locks the rings in the grooves of the pistion, the engine will develop "blow by" and "sludge" which will compound the operational problems. An upper cylinder lubricat can desolve carbon. The final decision is up to you! I also use this product in a 2000 Honda Civic, and a 1999 - 7.4 MerCruiser V8 Marine Engine. Carbon is a VERY BIG problem in marine engines. -----Just my opinion. ----Greg
If this was my vehicle, I would take the following actions: ---1.) I would consult with my attorney. 2.) I would take pictures of the entire vehicle.(Make multiple copies of the pictures) 3.) I would notify the dealer, (in a written format), as to what transpired with this vehicle.(Include pictures) 4.) I would have my attorney investigate the "Lemon Law" in my state. 5.) I would have my attorney notify Honda about this incident.(Include Pictures) 6.) I would contact my insurance company and report the incident, (in a written format with pictures). If you want to get this vehicle repaired in the proper manner, you MUST GET EVERYONE'S ATTENTION! ---Just my opinion. ---Greg
This whole discussion, including the differences between the paint types, was hashed out on this board about a year ago. Here it comes 'round again.
I think the point that one poster was trying to make is, Honda has built Accords in the United States for 20 years. And in that time, it has built a reputation for reliability. This would hardly be the case if the U.S.-built Accords were crap.
And for all of those that are ready only to accept a J-VIN car, consider this. A good friend of mine has a J-VIN 2000 Accord EX-L I4. With under 20,000 miles on the car, the whole engine was replaced because of a noise the engine was making and metal shavings found in the engine and oil pan, the sources of which couldn't be found. So obviously, Japanese Accords are not perfect either. And, it rattles and squeaks worse than either my 2002 EX-V6 did or my 2003 EX-L or my wife's 2002 LX do. All of which are U.S.-built Accords.
i just purchased and EX-L 4 cylinder auto this sat. this is my first new car in 11 years so i'm not really sure how to drive this baby from the get-go. there was only 1 mile on the car when i picked it up.
should i do highway driving? what is the top speed i should do? how many miles should be on it until the engine is "broken in"? please advise. thanks.
Check you manual as it should mention it. But basically, try to keep it under 70 or so and don't make panic stops unless you have to. Make slow gentle stops. For the first 1000 miles. Just be gentle with it, like a first love.
No full-throttle starts either. We always try to keep the revs below 3500 RPM for the first thousand miles. Should be very easy to do since this Accord has a wide powerband. I very rarely go above 3500 now unless I am trying to prove a point
Just wanted to post my 2 cents on this debate. I own a 2003 Accord LX Auto with about 7.5k miles on the odo. This is a US built accord (VIN starts with 1) and till date I have had no problem with this car. No rattles nothing at all. I like to drive the pants off my cars and after carefully breaking in the car (which was a breeze with the wide power band), I really drive very hard. I regularly get 33-34 MPG on highway so no problems there too.
I would say it is wrong to generalize that [non-permissible content removed] built Accords/cars have better construction, since I never had any such problems. A relative of mine has a [non-permissible content removed] built Camry (1998), which has its transmission replaced under warranty at around 20k miles, and started leaking oil again at 70k miles. So much for a [non-permissible content removed] built car.
I also own a 2000 Altima built in Tennessee with 56k hard driven miles on it, and till date I have not had to go to the dealer for anything other than oil changes that I get done 3-3.5 k miles. This is the most trouble free car I have ever owned, and I hope to get the same kind of service from my Accord.
The air bag re-action was bad but normal. The dealer should had gave you a littler manual that explain the way air bags works and the precaution you should have with them, yes, it is there where it explain that the air bags might deploy if you happen to go through a porth hole or speed bump. the manual is call "understanding your car's safety features" and on page 12 it states that, "If a wheel drops into a deep poth hole, or you strike a hard, raised object such a curb or speed bump, a brief high rate of deceleration may cause the front air bags to deploy." check and see if the dealer gave you one. Greetings from sunny Miami. v/r Fig.
It maybe be normal for the bags to deploy, but the way they deployed, leaves a lot to be desired. I mean, the cat sai that they ripped through his roof and casued all kinds of damage. THAT does nto sound normal.
I don't care what the manual says. If it is "normal" for side air bags to deploy when a driver goes over a bump, something is very, very wrong. This is more than a malfunction, it is a serious safety issue. Imagine the danger to drivers if the side air bags start deploying when one goes over a bump (even if it happens only rarely).
I'm willing to bet that if lvboy1980 makes a little noise, he will get whatever he wants from Honda. This sounds likes signficant lawsuit potential. Its a product liability issue.
lvboy1980, you manual should have a phone number and address for your areas national Honda rep. I'd sent them a certified letter describing the incident.
And not knowing how bad the pothole was it's hard to say. But airbas have to rip out of wherever they are stored so it's quite obvious they are going to do damage when they operate. They'll fix or replace the car under warranty.
The relay is located up under the drivers side dash area near the cruise control control unit if you have cruise. usally a grey case with a brown connector bottom..
If I am reading my parts mans hand writting correctly the part number is 30105-PR4-A03. That is a sub assembly which usally comes with an igniter, cap and rotor, no coil but not totally for sure and it goes for about $250.00..Ask your Acura dealer to run that number and see if it is a good number as we show it as available..good luck
HomeLink replicates the remote transmitter’s frequencies and signal strength. If the range is too short,install new batteries in the remote transmitter and reprogram HomeLink. For more HomeLink informationgo to http://www.homelink.com.
If side air bags deploy when the vehicle goes over a bump or into a hole on the roadway, I DO NOT WANT THAT VEHICLE. That is an accident looking for a place to happen. For me to keep this vehicle, Honda would have to adjust the sensitivity of the deployment mechanism, or disconnect the side air bags, or exchange the vehicle for one without side air bags. A sudden deployment on the road could cause the driver to loose control of the vehicle and get into an accident, or be the cause of an accident. This is totally unacceptable from any vehicle manufacturer. ---Just my opinion. ---Greg
I have driven GM, Chrysler and Honda vehicles with Air Bags. None of them, had air bags that deployed sporadically! I WOULD NOT ACCEPT A VEHICLE THAT HAD THIS PROBLEM! This is a SAFETY issue, and should be handled in a professional manner by both the selling dealer, and the manufacturer. This action could cause an accident. It could also cause eye and head injuries to the driver, since it deploys without warning. In an accident situation, the driver sees what is coming, and as such, he or she is prepared. This is a different set of circumstances. If necessary, I would envoke the "lemon law" in my state, or I would take it into the courts if I did not get any help from the dealer or the manufacturer. -----Just my opinion. ----Greg
What I'm saying is that it has happened. I have not won the lottery or been hit by lightning either. But it happens. It just happened to happen to you this time. Buy another car if you wish but I think it would be short sighted to do it because of the airbags.
Airbags can and have killed people. The can do much more than injure.
Since I have a 2003 4 cylinder Honda Accord with side air bags, I am VERY interested in the outcome of this issue. Please keep me advised as to the progress you are making with this problem. My E-mail address is: ---ggcordano@yahoo.com If you e-mail me, and you would like to speak over the phone, I would be glad to exchange phone numbers. Thank you in advance for your cooperation with this issue. This is VERY serious! ------Greg
I just got a used 2002 EX coupe a few days ago. Test drove it about 30 minutes and didn't have any problems. However, since the purchase the seat has really bothered me.. i have EX V6 so its one with one a power seat. Needless to say i've tried about 10 different positions and they all are killing my lower back. The main issue is with the lower support bar "not the lumbar", as it doesn't seem to have enough cushin and puts a lot of pressure on my back. Being new to honda i haven't read a lot of the post on here and wondered if this is a reacurring theme or do i just have an overly sensitive back? If this keeps up i won't be keeping the car long..
car was in service today, since the 3rd day of my ownership the transmission has been having a whistling noise when traveling at constant speeds. never thought of it as a big deal, but since i had time today i decided to give it a check up, so i grabbed a technician to test drive with he, he heard it too. 6 hrs later, the service rep called me and said the noise was coming from inside the transmission so they are ordering a new one for me. woo hoo ~~~ i'm not at all nervous about getting a new transmission, in fact, i'm pretty excited, knowing that the annoying noise is gonna be gone plus my car is probably gonna run smoother (it jerks a little in parking lot stop-and-go situations). and the fact that they didn't give me a hard time at all about the new transmission under warranty, car has 37.5k now, hehe. i don't really care about the risks of getting a new transmission, and if you own my car you probably wouldn't either. since my car wasn't running like a honda should from the beginning. everything was fine during the test drive tho, how lucky i am. haha. good things have been happening to me lately, maybe i should buy some lottery, lol. =D
this is a 97 accord. After running the car for about 20 minutes, I hear a clicking noise from the compament (like a relay) then ABS light turn on. It will turn off after 2 seconds. The same thing will happen again in about 2 or 3 minutes. Also whenever I start the car, it feels like the battery a little short of power. All of this happens after I wash off the coolen pill over the fan (change my coolen ofcouse). Anyone have any idea what has happened? Thanks
After reading all of the posts, I want to thank all of you for the good advice! So far I have called HONDA and advised them of the situation. Honda said that there is NOTHING that they can do and to call my insurance company! I am still waiting for the adjuster to come out and assess the damages. All of my co-workers said that this is NOT an insurance issue but a HONDA issue! I also took the car to HONDA WEST in LAS VEGAS where they said I was a LIAR and they found a mark under the car! I said "a "Mark" can be caused by ANYTHING cars are driven on the road and there are things that can make marks on the undercarriage you idiot!" I looked at the mark and it is so small like a stone hit it and scratched some of the undercoating away! Also, I know someone made a comment about the airbags deploying on page 12 of the "Understanding Your Cars Safety Features" It says the FRONT AIRBAGS can deploy if the car strikes a pothole or a curb...etc. It says NOTHING about the side airbags deploying!!! in fact, if you turn to page 14 it has a whole 2 pages on side airbags that says "Side airbags deploy only when they can be helpful" It also says " A side airbag is NOT LIKELY to inflate even during a sideswipe!!" and "A sideswipe may result in extensive vehicle damage, but the impact forces are ususally not large enough for a side airbag to be helpful" so I am consulting an lawyer at this point because if a sideswipe wouldnt cause them to deploy how will they explain NO DAMAGE!!!??? I hope this makes sense because I am still very upset! Thanks for reading and giving me advice. ~Kurtis
I was having some problems when I first bought my 2003 Accord with power seats, but I took some time adjusted them and they are perfect. I love my Accord.
I purchased an ACCORD EX-L 4 cylinder Sedan this past Saturday. I should reach 100 miles by tonight. So far so good.
I would like to address some of the complaints I have read in the posts.
First, I do notice some rattles from the sunroof. However, they are minor and only can be heard if my radio is off.
Second, I haven't found the A-pillar to be a big issue. However, I do think that the C-pillar will create some big blind some spots. The A-pillar will be only be an issue if you do not properly adjust your driver seat.
Third, this is my first Honda. I have been driving a 1992 Toyota Camry. In terms of ride, the Camry is definitely smoother over bumps. This Accord is stiff by my standards.
Fourth, handling is great. I feel very little body roll in turns and twists.
The seats are great especially with leather.
I hope this Accord will last as long as my Camry which I still have as a second car.
Check your tire pressures. On a brand new car, it is not unusual for them to be very high, because of dealers who don't properly adjust them from shipping pressures [they are shipped with 50 psi in the tires to keep them from flat-spotting].
Cold pressures should be 32 psi or thereabouts.
Having said that, there will be no comparison between the ride on a '92 Camry and a contemporary Accord. Every Honda ever built rides more firmly than every Camry ever made. I thought our '01 Accord EX V6 sedan was right on the margin, when the tires were right, of being too firm. Depended on my mood for the day...
Has anyone heard of any these same problems in the euro/jdm accord (aka acura tsx in the US) The list of problems in turning me off to the accord and has me looking at the TSX.
How much business you think the accord is gonna loose to the TSX?
I am taking my 03 exv6 in on Friday for its 75 00 mile service. I am having a couple of issues that I wonder if they are duplicates of what others have seen and if there are any TSBs or other items the dealer should be aware of.
1) there is a noise ( I hesitate to call it a rattle) coming from above the drivers side door. Sounds more like a squeak caused by the something rubbing together. Not always present but worse in the 45-55 degree outside temp range.
2) Similar sound but more rattle like coming from the right back seat area. Its hard to pinpoint becuse it seems never be there when I get a chance to sit back there.
3) Headlights dim noticebly when accelerating. Letting go of the accelerator causes them to brighten again. Doesn't happen when the car is in park and seems worse in the 1500-2500rpm range.
my rear bumper was scratched and repainted, and now it doesn't shine like the rest of the car does, very dull color. when i bought the car i also bought the clear coat protection, but the bodyshop said they put in clear coat as well and it's the best they can do AND they can't tell any differences. i don't think i'll waste anymore time with the bodyshop cuz it clearly shows they are not gonna help. i brought it to the detailing shop that the dealer uses as their detailing shop, they told me to bring the car in tomorrow and they'll see if they can make it shine like the rest of the car does, but they also said "it might not work cuz the paint might be too thin." now i'm all clueless and worried that this huge difference is always gonna be there, does anybody have any suggestions on what i should do?
I have seen a few complaints on this board about the 03 Accord low gas mileage. My 03 LX automatic has about 3000 miles on it and has never gone beyond the 18-19 MPG (combination of city and highway). I saw Honda hyped their gas economy all over the place but mine is way off the mark of 24-34 range. I called the dealer and was told the exactly the same thing on the owner's manual: engine break-in and cold weather, etc. But I think 3000 miles would have been sufficiently enough... Any suggestions/reflections? Or anyone has really seen gas mileage improvement after 3000 or 5000 miles?
Comments
Getting a J accord without those wonderful Michelin energy tires could be a bear though.
well, it's been there since the day i drove the car off the dealer's lot in sep, 2001, i took the car bak for many many times and they always "found nothing wrong". after multiple attempts they started to ignore me as i stood in the service lane, that made me lose all my hope so i gave up, drove the car home and decided to love it the way it is. and may i remind u that i'm not crazy, my friend has an 02 i4 sedan and his car runs as smooth as silk. oh, btw, my engine/exhaust made a lot more noise as well, noise is vibration, and that just made my car seems so unrefined.
so about 2 months ago i decided i wanna modify my car a little, for the fun of getting new stuff, so i got some aftermarket air intake system and cat-back exhaust, i did a lot of research before i purchased the stuff and i was in the accord performance forums a lot as well. therefore i learned that i should reset my ECU after putting in the intake/exhaust so the computer will learn the difference faster. so i did it.
fast forward, about a week ago the sound of the intake/exhaust just really got to me, it got so annoying i just can't take it anymore, so i decided to go all the way bak to stock. as i exchanged bak to stock i didn't forget to reset the ECU again. and let me tell you, now my car runs just like my friend's 02 sedan, even better, the engine is silky smooth, now i just press the pedal a little and there's plenty of power to accelerate up to speed, and all the excessive noise is gone. stop here, before you tell me that i feel this way because of the difference going from aftermarket intake/exhaust bak to stock, IT'S NOT! i have been driving like this for a few days already, plus i drove my friend's 02 sedan again bak to bak and they drove the same. AND my car doesn't vibrate as much as it used to before, the vibration is still there, but it's much of it is reduced, i no longer feel like i'm forced to have a massage that i don't want.
i still don't know what exactly was the thing that fixed my car, but i believe resetting ECU did plenty of good and it does no harm at all.
maybe auburn63 can give a logical explanation of this miracle? and should i go teach the service ppl at the dealer a lesson? hehe, just kidding.
nonetheless, i suggest everybody reset their ECU once in a while, you might notice something you like! =D
PS:How did you reset the ECU?
I admit, I have a bias because of the success I've had with these cars. But, because of it, I look for "J"s when shopping for used cars also,whether it's Mazdas, Toyotas or Hondas.
Maybe it was just the luck of the draw, but I'm hooked on "J"s.
ALTHOUGH i've never done it that way, i just pull the negative terminal on the battery and wait for about 10-15 mins then put it bak in. but this way you will have to reset all your radio settings and stations (you also need your radio code to get your radio working again). but i'm sure next time i will just pull the fuse, much more convinient.
correct me if i'm wrong auburn63.
Also I had a creek on my passenger side when starting from a standstill on hills. The dealer worked on the car for a week and replaced the front sping/shock and realigned the fender. That cured the problem.
Thanks.
AL.
02 V6 Accord.
I think the point that one poster was trying to make is, Honda has built Accords in the United States for 20 years. And in that time, it has built a reputation for reliability. This would hardly be the case if the U.S.-built Accords were crap.
And for all of those that are ready only to accept a J-VIN car, consider this. A good friend of mine has a J-VIN 2000 Accord EX-L I4. With under 20,000 miles on the car, the whole engine was replaced because of a noise the engine was making and metal shavings found in the engine and oil pan, the sources of which couldn't be found. So obviously, Japanese Accords are not perfect either. And, it rattles and squeaks worse than either my 2002 EX-V6 did or my 2003 EX-L or my wife's 2002 LX do. All of which are U.S.-built Accords.
should i do highway driving? what is the top speed i should do? how many miles should be on it until the engine is "broken in"? please advise. thanks.
That's about it.
I would say it is wrong to generalize that [non-permissible content removed] built Accords/cars have better construction, since I never had any such problems. A relative of mine has a [non-permissible content removed] built Camry (1998), which has its transmission replaced under warranty at around 20k miles, and started leaking oil again at 70k miles. So much for a [non-permissible content removed] built car.
I also own a 2000 Altima built in Tennessee with 56k hard driven miles on it, and till date I have not had to go to the dealer for anything other than oil changes that I get done 3-3.5 k miles. This is the most trouble free car I have ever owned, and I hope to get the same kind of service from my Accord.
a 93 Accord. Friend is having intermittent
starting problems with her Accrod. Suggestions?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
or trying picking the lock.
j/k
the manual is call "understanding your car's safety features" and on page 12 it states that, "If a wheel drops into a deep poth hole, or you strike a hard, raised object such a curb or speed bump, a brief high rate of deceleration may cause the front air bags to deploy." check and see if the dealer gave you one.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
v/r
Fig.
I'm willing to bet that if lvboy1980 makes a little noise, he will get whatever he wants from Honda. This sounds likes signficant lawsuit potential. Its a product liability issue.
lvboy1980, you manual should have a phone number and address for your areas national Honda rep. I'd sent them a certified letter describing the incident.
Airbags can and have killed people. The can do much more than injure.
Thanks,
James
6 hrs later, the service rep called me and said the noise was coming from inside the transmission so they are ordering a new one for me. woo hoo ~~~
i'm not at all nervous about getting a new transmission, in fact, i'm pretty excited, knowing that the annoying noise is gonna be gone plus my car is probably gonna run smoother (it jerks a little in parking lot stop-and-go situations). and the fact that they didn't give me a hard time at all about the new transmission under warranty, car has 37.5k now, hehe.
i don't really care about the risks of getting a new transmission, and if you own my car you probably wouldn't either. since my car wasn't running like a honda should from the beginning. everything was fine during the test drive tho, how lucky i am. haha.
good things have been happening to me lately, maybe i should buy some lottery, lol. =D
Anyone have any idea what has happened? Thanks
~Kurtis
I would like to address some of the complaints I have read in the posts.
First, I do notice some rattles from the sunroof. However, they are minor and only can be heard if my radio is off.
Second, I haven't found the A-pillar to be a big issue. However, I do think that the C-pillar will create some big blind some spots. The A-pillar will be only be an issue if you do not properly adjust your driver seat.
Third, this is my first Honda. I have been driving a 1992 Toyota Camry. In terms of ride, the Camry is definitely smoother over bumps. This Accord is stiff by my standards.
Fourth, handling is great. I feel very little body roll in turns and twists.
The seats are great especially with leather.
I hope this Accord will last as long as my Camry which I still have as a second car.
Cold pressures should be 32 psi or thereabouts.
Having said that, there will be no comparison between the ride on a '92 Camry and a contemporary Accord. Every Honda ever built rides more firmly than every Camry ever made. I thought our '01 Accord EX V6 sedan was right on the margin, when the tires were right, of being too firm. Depended on my mood for the day...
How much business you think the accord is gonna loose to the TSX?
1) there is a noise ( I hesitate to call it a rattle) coming from above the drivers side door. Sounds more like a squeak caused by the something rubbing together. Not always present but worse in the 45-55 degree outside temp range.
2) Similar sound but more rattle like coming from the right back seat area. Its hard to pinpoint becuse it seems never be there when I get a chance to sit back there.
3) Headlights dim noticebly when accelerating. Letting go of the accelerator causes them to brighten again. Doesn't happen when the car is in park and seems worse in the 1500-2500rpm range.
Any ideas?
i don't think i'll waste anymore time with the bodyshop cuz it clearly shows they are not gonna help. i brought it to the detailing shop that the dealer uses as their detailing shop, they told me to bring the car in tomorrow and they'll see if they can make it shine like the rest of the car does, but they also said "it might not work cuz the paint might be too thin."
now i'm all clueless and worried that this huge difference is always gonna be there, does anybody have any suggestions on what i should do?