I am new to this sale stuff.... original owner of a 1990 accord LX with 287,500 miles on it. I need all of your expert comment on how much should I sell this car. I do have a minor problem and that is I am loosing coolant somewhere. I check my dipstick and no visibility of coolant in oil. I took the car to a radiator shop to have the thermostat replaced and the radiator rod out. Friends tell me that I may have a crack in the head allowing coolant to enter around the piston. At stop light, the car sometimes overheat (meaning the gauge move way above normal temperature) and when it is moving the gauge move back to normal operating temperature. I noticed there is coolant overflow around the reservoir. When engine is cool it is not sucking it back into the radiator. I don't want to put any more money into this car and will like to sell it. I have change my oil every 3-5 thousand miles and all the miles are from highway driving. Anyone can advice me how much should I asked for? The kelley look book trade in is $1,800 dollars. Most of the honda dealer will not even want to take the car because they will not make a dime on it. Your comment is appreciated!
I have a 1990 honda accord with 251,000 miles on it when it happen. I was driving around city street when the car just shut down for no apparent reason. The alternator can still turn but there wasn't any spark going into the engine. The mechanic replaced the ignition coil and igniter.
I'm new to this "town hall" thing, but I've been reading here that there is some sort of problem with late model v6 accords with automatic transmissions. As I write this, my '98 ex-v6 (38,000 km), is in at the dealer having a new transmission installed. It went in a week ago with a problem that seemed like the engine was cutting in and out as you drove. The problem did not re occur for the dealer, however, he said the transmission was not shifting well, so he ordered a new transmission and it will be installed next week.
I would like to know from anyone with more information on this transmission problem, specifically what the problem is with this transmission. Also, is this common to Accords or just small number of them that will be dealt with under warranty? My dealer didn't know what was wrong with the unit, and that he could not disassemble it either, or else Honda would not pay him for the repair.
The problem you are alluding to was with a small batch of early 2000 production V6 transmissions; my recollection is that it originally surfaced in late '99, and was fixed by early 2000 - about 60-90 days worth of production was at risk, and not every car had the bad part [a supplier had changed a part-making process without consulting Honda - always a potential mistake]. The symptoms had nothing to do with what you are experiencing - the main symptom was a horrific clunking sound when the car was put into reverse. Yours sounds like the victim of the usual random things that occur in mass production, and indeed the standard approach in those circumstances is to replace the trans and be done with it.
There are no ongoing or historic transmission problems with the Accord, except as noted above. With those cars, the problem was evident real early in the ownership process - some people were able to spot defective cars at the dealership before ever driving off - it wasn't exactly a subtle problem. Anyway, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it - I own a '01 EX V6, and I certainly don't.
I have a 2000 Accord sedan V6. At higher speeds I notice a whistling sound coming from the engine compartment area. I really notice it at freeway speeds when I let OFF the accelerator. If I keep my foot on the accelerator pedal I don't hear the noise. The noise is not real loud, but loud enough to be a bother. It's definitely not wind noise coming into the car. This occurs with or without the radio/CD player on. Does anyone have an idea what this might be? The car has 5,600 miles on it. This noise started at about 4,500 miles. Any help will be appreciated.
That is the security system for the radio. The radio will not work until you enter the correct code. The battery cable was probably disconnected (did you have your car in the shop lately?) You need to reenter the 5 digit code using the radio buttons (code is probably on a sticker in the glove box) otherwise the dealership gave the code to you on a card (credit card size) when you bought the car. If all else fails the dealer can pull the radio to determine the code but that will probably cost you $100 in labor.
I was experiencing the same thing with my 91 LX. It was on and off for during my ownership. Mileage was around 128K. I never bothered to discover. It was not effecting the performance. But it good idea to ask auburn.
I have posted in this forum before with some slight problems that have been fixed.
I have a 2000 Accord SE purchased 12/99 with 7,400 miles on it.
Two weeks ago after the car was sitting for 5 days in some cold weather I started the car up.
Genrally, I let it warm up but needed to drive about 30 feet to let my wife get her van out.
As I hit the gas I heard a ticking noise in the engine. Since then I have heard it one additional time after the car was sitting for 14 hours in sub zero weather. Once the engine warms the noise goes away.
I have called the dealer and am bringing the car in this week (Earliest appointment I could get).
What should I be pushing for? A new car? I had the car last year during very cold weather and never heard this noise.
I have recently begun driving the '01 EX V6 we purchased in October (fiancee drove it before). I have noticed that when the cruise control is engaged I hear a clicking noise from under the hood. It is definitely related to the cruise control because when I shut the cruise off the noise disappears. It seems more apparent at lower speeds (I use the cruise on some lower limit roads nearby where the police tend to prowl). Any thoughts?
I also have noticed a build up of ice on the interior of the front window after the car is parked outside for long periods of time (in cold temps obviously). This can't be related to recirc or fresh because the car isn't running. I never had this happen with my old Accord and remember my dads pos Excel having the same problem and it was attributed to bad weatherstripping.
I'm having a problem with my 2000 Accord V-6 Coupe and was wondering if anyone else has experienced the problem. When I step on my brake, the car pulls sometimes to left and sometimes to the right, at various speed levels (including 15 miles per hour). The car has 21K miles and has been back to the dealer 3 times for this problem. Today I took it to another reputable dealer and they classified the problem as Rough Rutted Road Wanderer (they said that there is a bulletin about this problem). However, I don't believe this is the reason for my problem. Any help or information will be appreciated.
Have you checked to see if tires are over or under inflated? Does the car go straight when you let go of the wheel (and not under braking)? Usually when a car pulls when braking indicates a problem with the brakes, but yours pull in both directions, so it may not be the brakes.
If your engine noise problem started shortly after the last oil change, the oil filter may have a defective anti-drainback valve allowing oil to (you guessed it) drain back to the oil pan. It then takes a little while to pump oil back up to the top end, especially when it's cold and the oil's thicker.
The other night I was driving home on the freeway and my 96 Accord suddenly stopped running. As it turns out there is an engine defect that causes a seal to malfunction and all the oil drains out. My engine seized up and it will have to be replaced.
Honda has agreed that it is their fault, but will only put a used non-honda certified engine in to replace the damaged one. We want a certified honda engine. Any insights on the quality of these used non-certified engines would be helpful.
Also, does anyone know of someone else who's had this problem? Or if anyone's been injured as a result?
I have an appointment on Tuesday. Dealer wants me to drop it off Monday night so they can start it cold.
When I made the appointment the service guy mentions this is normal especially in the cold weather we have been having.
I told him that I did not want to be a pain in the A-- but my prior cars an 89 ny'er and a 1990 Chevy Lumina never had this problem and experienced much colder weather then we are currently having.
Based on some limited research post #620 comment seems to be the most prevalent reason for the noise. It also appears that some cars do this allot.
I have typed a letter to the dealer documenting the issue and stating that I do not believe the condition is normal. I will give it to him with the keys when I drop the car off.
Has anyone else experienced this problem the overnight temperature (excluding wind chill factor) in my area of NY have ranged between 0 and 30 degrees.
Any other suggestions of what to put in the letter.
I know this all may seem like overkill but I have found formally putting all your issues in writing can help down the road.
I have two hondas (actually an Acura Integra and an Isuzu Oasis) and live in SD where it gets very cold in the winter. The clickling happens all the time when it gets very cold (-20 is common), and gets better when the car warms up. I think it is the valves. Using an oil that flows better in the cold might help. I use Mobil 1 since it flows at -65 degrees.
By the way I posted earlier about a problem with excessive oil consumption. It turns out that even though I checked the oil on a flat road, the crown of the road was enough to through the reading off by .6 quart (the dipstick is on the side of the oil pan). I put the car in the garage and it read just fine. I have since checked several times, and no oil is used at 600 miles. Thanks everybody for input.
'99 DX 4cyl. w/ 30K miles I have problem with a rough idle. It gets noticeably worse when electrical system is loaded. Idles at approx. 750 rpm. Idles better when idle speed increased.
Dealer claims valve adjustment needed (which I plan to have done). Any insight? Will valve adjustment correct this? What's the connection to electrical loading? Heard references to TSB on rough idle - but could find no details. Any links to this TSB?
My first thought is possible feed back noise. There is a ground strap on some models that was installed from the right shock tower area to the motor that can and does cause a noise. You can take and move this ground to the front right headlight / radiator area and the other end to the front of the motor.If that isnt it then there is a known 60-70 mph wind noise problem with the front windshield moldings that is tricky at times to find but tech line has info on it. Lastly there is the possibility that you are hearing a noise that is not heard by most. There is some small amount of trans gear noise that can be heard if tuned to it or lisenting for it.Those are the only things that I am aware or that I can think of for possibilities. Good luck
The last I checked on the cruise control click Honda was calling it normal. But it has been a while since I checked so I will try and check again. The only time I have ever heard it was at speeds under 35 is this the same with you? As far as the ice problem I haven't seen it happen but are you sure that you don't have a clogged a/c drain or small water leak? Either of these would leave enough moisture in the car to create dew then frost.They also say wet floor mats will cause this.
Re: cruise control, yes definitely have the clicking at lower speeds, below 35 as you said. Be curious to see what else you can tell me about this. Why would it only occur at lower speeds? My '89 Accord certainly doesn't do it. Anyone else notice this?
Re: moisture. The car is definitely wet inside from snow etc. so maybe that is it. How would I check for a clogged drain?
Hi Everyone, I hope some one can help. I own a 1990 Accord Lx and it seems to have developed this little problem. When turning off the car I cannot turn the key out of the ignition. At first I thought it maybe the ignition lock so I sprayed a little WD40 on the key to loosen it up...didnt work. I next took of the cowling around the steering column and tried to tighted up the whole assy
tightening the assy didnt work either. I Then noticed that the transmission would'nt register in the park position up on the dash panel. I shake and bang a little on the shifter and the little red box appears around the "P" and then the key is able to be pushed in and turns out like it should. Is there a transmission module or some electronic part that needs to be replaced or is the ignition lock assy really the problem?
If anyone has any history on this kind of problem I would surely appreciate some help
Not sure if it is the same problem but I own a 1990 Accord DX 5 speed that several months ago the key was hard to turn. Once I started the car I could not turn the key back and the key came out of the ignition while the car was running. The dealer replaced the ignition switch and it works fine now.
Probably a bad or misadjusted inhibitor switch(gear position switch).If it is not that then it may have a bad TCU(trans computer) but I doubt it is the TCU, most likely the switch.
My dealer gave me an estimate of $220 to clean the egr valve ports on my 91 accord that we discussed a few weeks back. Is this reasonable, or should I check elsewhere?
That sounds a bit high even though to tell you the truth I don't know what we get dollar wise. I know it pays us 2.0 hours and we get like 63.00 an hour. The parts for the repair are just little blow out plug things so that can't be more than a buck each. So the way I see it the cost should be around 130.00 give or take.It only takes me like a half an hour from start to finish now that I have done so many and know what to do.So I would ask them how come it is so high in price.If needed there is now a bulletin out for it so I could check on that for the suggested time if it has it.Good luck
When it's at stop, my 2000 Accord SE/4 (bought May 2000 and 7000 miles on it) seems to have increasing noise over the past 3 month.
Here is what I found: 1. The noise/vibration is loud/big during the engine startup and first 10 minutes of drive. Then it fades away, but still noticable. 2. The noise/vibration seems worse when temperature is "low" (around 45, which is not really low). 3. The worst case is, when I turn on the headlight, the noise/vibration become even louder/larger, and cause my hands on steering feel discomfortable.
Anybody has similar problem ? Anyway, I'm going to see the Honda service guy this week. See what he says.
Now I think Toyota Camry is really really much quieter than the Honda Accord.
hello, i have a 2000 accord lx auto. the dealer installed a honda keyless w/no alarm but didn't tell me i have to add a power trunk opener to open trunk using keyless entry. my question is do they have to take the dash etc apart again to program the power actuator to work or is it just install the part and your good to go. by the way how much should i pay for this? if i remember correctly they wanted $70.00 total including parts and labor. is this to much? also,what's a good price for window tinting and does it stick well to the rear defroster and does it affect the operation of the defroster? do they remove the rear window brake light or just cut around it? thanks!
I just purchased a new 2001 exv6 coupe in November. Alreardy I'm starting to hear more and more creaking from the dash/windshield area, moonroof, and driver side door/window. The dash and moonroof creaking is exacerbated during really cold weather. The driver side door rattling is only heard when a song with a lot of bass is playing. I have an appointment to take it in to have it looked at. I was wondering if others have had the same problems and how they were resolved. I'm afraid of them explaining to me that there is nohting they can do about rattling and creaking. Otherwise I love the car. It's just very annoying to drive the car without the radio to drown out all of the interior noise. Also.. I think the wind noise is terrible, I can't imagine how loud it was if this year was suppose to be an improvement. Is it possible I have a bad seal or something?
As I understand it the 5W-20 was specified to help with the gas mileage (I may be wrong, anybody?). Since the same engine called for 5W-30 in the past I can't see why it would be a problem. When I had my first oil change (at 3800 miles, didn't feel like waiting longer) I specifically asked the dealer if they use 5W-20, they said yes and I noticed the tech filling from quart bottles, but I never did check.
Creaks and rattles are usually very hard to diagnose. In my sedan I had some that have gone away and others that have appeared. None too bad though. I learned with my Accord Hatchback (noisy hatch) that unless it's an obvious defect they are so hard to pin down.
As for the wind noise, I didn't think the changes for '01 addressed that rather they added more underhood insulation to reduce engine noise. If it's very bad you probably should have that checked. I do get wind noise as well but it doesn't seem excessive to me and frankly I just would rather live with it than having the car torn apart.
I have owned 2 Honda Accords. I recently just purchased my 3rd. It's a 93 LX auto with 80K. I bought it from the original owner. From my last Accord (a 1992) I remember that it shifted less smooth than other cars I have owned (I have had a Lexus ES 300 & a 94 Camry, all with similar mileage) My question is, do 93 Accords shift from 1-2, & 2-3 with perfect smoothness or do you feel some light jerking between the gear change? I.E. about 1/2 as much if you were driving a standard of the same model? I am used to a very smooth tranisition between gears and at low speeds and that is not what I get from this Accord. I think it's normal but I'd love to hear from other 93 owners & a tech if possible. Also, while in D idling I notice a slight vibration in the steering wheel, and after a couple of minutes it gets slightly worse, it's not rattling my teeth or anything but is this normal? The AC is not on when it does this, and if I turn the AC on it has no effect on the vibrating. I remember when I asked the dealer about the same problem in the 92 I owned they said 'it's normal'. Last question, the radiator was just replaced due to a crack, the temperature gauge on the dash shows the temp to stay about 1/8 " above 1/2 way between C & H, is this normal? Thoughts?
Is Honda a good manufacturer? read on... and make your own conclusion.
As a follow-up to message# 634, here is what I experienced:
On Jan 9, 2001, I sent in my Accord 2000 SE, and reported to the Service Advisor that recently there is significant increase in noise and vibration whenever I turn on the headlight, and I did NOT have this problem before. As usual, he verified the symptom/problem, took note of it and asked me to pick up the car in the afternoon.
Then around 3:30pm, he called me saying that they could NOT fix the problem, AND in fact, this is NOT a problem. Because they have checked other two similar Accord, all exhibiting this characteristic, but at different degree. So there is nothing they can do about it, even though I told them I didn't have this annoying characteristic before.
Then because I still didn't believe Honda would actually make such a design mistake and just let the noise/vibration go on like that. I made a call to American Honda Customer Service, and after a long talk and several verification/confirmation, the guy over the phone finally told me that, YES there will be additional noise/vibration when the headlight is turned on, and Honda can NOT do anything about it even when the noise/vibration causing discomfort.
So can you believe this, it is design defect and Honda knows it.
Although I agree to say that this defect probably will not cause safty problem in short term, but I'm sure it will cause some kind of trouble later. Because generally the noise/vibration implies some sort of kinetic imbalance with the motion mechanism, and kinetic imbalance will lead to uneven wear-out to the mechanical parts much quickly. So in the long term, we may have big problem. We just don't know it now.
So try to test your Honda Accord, see whether you have the similar problem. You start your car, release hand-brake, shift to "R" or "D", and put your hands on steering wheel, listen to the noise, feel the vibration, and then turn on headlight. Feel the difference ? --- difference may vary from car to car, you are lucky if there is no difference for your car.
Anyway, anybody has any idea how to solve this problem ?
Most likely, they made up this design defect story to get rid of you from the line. I am a good reader of many forums but this is the first time I hear such a problem.
Majority of consumer made problem categories are not recognized by manufacturers even though some of them are real.
Anyone having trouble starting their Accord in cold weather and also noticing very harsh shifting from 1-2 for the first 10 miles of driving or so?
I just brought it to the dealer and told me my starting problem is due to all the new emissions controls. They also said that it was due to me running the car low on fuel. Funny thing is, I always keep it full and have no problems starting any of my other cars.
I also realize that automatic trannies tend to shift a little harder until the fluid warms up, but this car seems to have a sudden thrust between the shift.
The dealer also told me that I've obviously never owned a Honda before and this is normal for a Honda. Funny thing is we traded a 97 Civic on this car at that dealer.
I think they're full of it and was wondering i fanyone else is experiencing the same?
Sounds as if the shifting is normal, if it is set up correctly it should have what we call a positive shift which is a bit firm. But that is a good thing as there is no slipping clutches with a positive shift. This makes it last longer.
As for the temp and vibs, with a moderate outside temperature(60 or higher) about half way is normal. On colder days it really should be below the half way mark but again slightly above half will be ok until the summer rolls around then it may need attention.As for the vibrations, some amounts are normal but I have seen alot of the front mounts going bad and they cause a higher than normal vibration so you may want to have it looked at if it seems to be a bit more than you think it should have.
The service advisor said about $40 for the chemicals and the rest is labor for a total of around $220. Must be about 2.5 hours, because their labor rate is $67.50 per hour.
What is your experience with synthetic oil? I have been thinking about switching my 2000 4 cylinder coupe to Mobil 1. It is highly recommended by some people, while others think it is a waste of money???
Well if thats the best you or they can do then I guess its not that bad but try and see if they will give you something off or an oil change or something.
I like mobil 1 but you don't really need it if you change your oil often.I always try to use the best products that I can afford for my cars and almost always go OEM, which we all know cost more and some say isn't worth it either.With that said if you feel Mobil 1 is the choice for you then Mobil 1 it is. I use castrol gtx in mine in case you wondered. but have nothing bad to say about synthetics...
Just an update on my engine ticking noise problem.
Dealer examined car and has stated the noise is normal in very cold weather.
In the letter I sent him detailing the problem I provided some of the suggestions in this forum. Dealer provided a free oil change with filter.
Have not heard the noise since but it has not reached sub-zero temperatures yet. What's interesting is I do not experience this noise with my HO or my former Lumina and 89 NY'er. They are or were all V-6's. Maybe that was the difference.
Your problem sounds very similar to one I'm having. I have been calling it 'rough idle'. but I think your terms & description of vibration is more descriptive of the problem.
I find any electrical load (e.g. lights, defroster) makes the symtoms worse.
On your vibration, is it only at idle or can you feel it accelerating.The cold noise and vibs are probably normal due to the higher engine idle and cold motor mounts.If when warm it is still there at a point where it is visibly noticable then possibly you may have a valve on the tight side or it may even be running too lean.However if it was running to lean then it should kick a check engine light.If they are willing have your dealer check the valve adjustment and possibly try and reset the ECM/PCM then do an idle adjustment. Depending on the valves and if any were tight or not you may notice atleast a small change.Good luck
Comments
Friends tell me that I may have a crack in the head allowing coolant to enter around the piston.
At stop light, the car sometimes overheat (meaning the gauge move way above normal temperature) and when it is moving the gauge move back to normal operating temperature. I noticed there is coolant overflow around the reservoir. When engine is cool it is not sucking it back into the radiator. I don't want to put any more money into this car and will like to sell it.
I have change my oil every 3-5 thousand miles and all the miles are from highway driving. Anyone can advice me how much should I asked for? The kelley look book trade in is $1,800 dollars. Most of the honda dealer will not even want to take the car because they will not make a dime on it. Your comment is appreciated!
Hope this help.
is some sort of problem with late model v6 accords with automatic
transmissions. As I write this, my '98 ex-v6 (38,000 km), is in at the dealer
having a new transmission installed. It went in a week ago with a problem
that seemed like the engine was cutting in and out as you drove. The problem
did not re occur for the dealer, however, he said the transmission was not
shifting well, so he ordered a new transmission and it will be installed next
week.
I would like to know from anyone with more information on this transmission
problem, specifically what the problem is with this transmission. Also, is this
common to Accords or just small number of them that will be dealt with under
warranty? My dealer didn't know what was wrong with the unit, and that he could
not disassemble it either, or else Honda would not pay him for the repair.
There are no ongoing or historic transmission problems with the Accord, except as noted above. With those cars, the problem was evident real early in the ownership process - some people were able to spot defective cars at the dealership before ever driving off - it wasn't exactly a subtle problem. Anyway, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it - I own a '01 EX V6, and I certainly don't.
Mileage was around 128K. I never bothered to discover. It was not effecting the performance. But it good idea to ask auburn.
I have a 2000 Accord SE purchased 12/99 with 7,400 miles on it.
Two weeks ago after the car was sitting for 5 days in some cold weather I started the car up.
Genrally, I let it warm up but needed to drive about 30 feet to let my wife get her van out.
As I hit the gas I heard a ticking noise in the engine. Since then I have heard it one additional time after the car was sitting for 14 hours in sub zero weather. Once the engine warms the noise goes away.
I have called the dealer and am bringing the car in this week (Earliest appointment I could get).
What should I be pushing for? A new car? I had the car last year during very cold weather and never heard this noise.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Much Thanks for your help.
rubber seem to be ok,any ideas on what to replace
or clean out?
I also have noticed a build up of ice on the interior of the front window after the car is parked outside for long periods of time (in cold temps obviously). This can't be related to recirc or fresh because the car isn't running. I never had this happen with my old Accord and remember my dads pos Excel having the same problem and it was attributed to bad weatherstripping.
As you can see I put very little mileage on the car.
I checked the oil level first its fine.
The dealer has done the oil changes on the car to date and interesting enough the issue happened soon after the last oil change.
The new car comment was a wise crack please forgive.
Usually when a car pulls when braking indicates a problem with the brakes, but yours pull in both directions, so it may not be the brakes.
Honda has agreed that it is their fault, but will only put a used non-honda certified engine in to replace the damaged one. We want a certified honda engine. Any insights on the quality of these used non-certified engines would be helpful.
Also, does anyone know of someone else who's had this problem? Or if anyone's been injured as a result?
Thanks.
I have an appointment on Tuesday. Dealer wants me to drop it off Monday night so they can start it cold.
When I made the appointment the service guy mentions this is normal especially in the cold weather we have been having.
I told him that I did not want to be a pain in the A-- but my prior cars an 89 ny'er and a 1990 Chevy Lumina never had this problem and experienced much colder weather then we are currently having.
Based on some limited research post #620 comment seems to be the most prevalent reason for the noise. It also appears that some cars do this allot.
I have typed a letter to the dealer documenting the issue and stating that I do not believe the condition is normal. I will give it to him with the keys when I drop the car off.
Has anyone else experienced this problem the overnight temperature (excluding wind chill factor) in my area of NY have ranged between 0 and 30 degrees.
Any other suggestions of what to put in the letter.
I know this all may seem like overkill but I have found formally putting all your issues in writing can help down the road.
Thanks in advance for all your help.
By the way I posted earlier about a problem with excessive oil consumption. It turns out that even though I checked the oil on a flat road, the crown of the road was enough to through the reading off by .6 quart (the dipstick is on the side of the oil pan). I put the car in the garage and it read just fine. I have since checked several times, and no oil is used at 600 miles. Thanks everybody for input.
I have problem with a rough idle. It gets noticeably worse when electrical system is loaded. Idles at approx. 750 rpm. Idles better when idle speed increased.
Dealer claims valve adjustment needed (which I plan to have done). Any insight? Will valve adjustment correct this? What's the connection to electrical loading? Heard references to TSB on rough idle - but could find no details. Any links to this TSB?
As far as the ice problem I haven't seen it happen but are you sure that you don't have a clogged a/c drain or small water leak? Either of these would leave enough moisture in the car to create dew then frost.They also say wet floor mats will cause this.
Re: moisture. The car is definitely wet inside from snow etc. so maybe that is it. How would I check for a clogged drain?
Thanks
I hope some one can help. I own a 1990 Accord Lx and it seems to have developed this little problem. When turning off the car I cannot turn the key out of the ignition. At first I thought it
maybe the ignition lock so I sprayed a little WD40 on the key to loosen it up...didnt work.
I next took of the cowling around the steering column and tried to tighted up the whole assy
tightening the assy didnt work either. I Then noticed that the transmission would'nt register in the park position up on the dash panel. I shake and bang a little on the shifter and the little
red box appears around the "P" and then the key is able to be pushed in and turns out like it should. Is there a transmission module or some electronic part that needs to be replaced or
is the ignition lock assy really the problem?
If anyone has any history on this kind of problem I would surely appreciate some help
When it's at stop, my 2000 Accord SE/4 (bought May 2000 and 7000 miles on it) seems to have increasing noise over the past 3 month.
Here is what I found:
1. The noise/vibration is loud/big during the engine startup and first 10 minutes of drive. Then it fades away, but still noticable.
2. The noise/vibration seems worse when temperature is "low" (around 45, which is not really low).
3. The worst case is, when I turn on the headlight, the noise/vibration become even louder/larger, and cause my hands on steering feel discomfortable.
Anybody has similar problem ? Anyway, I'm going to see the Honda service guy this week. See what he says.
Now I think Toyota Camry is really really much quieter than the Honda Accord.
Thanks
ZJ
Great car thus far.
Thanks
As for the wind noise, I didn't think the changes for '01 addressed that rather they added more underhood insulation to reduce engine noise. If it's very bad you probably should have that checked. I do get wind noise as well but it doesn't seem excessive to me and frankly I just would rather live with it than having the car torn apart.
I bought it from the original owner. From my last Accord (a 1992) I remember that it shifted
less smooth than other cars I have owned (I have had a Lexus ES 300 & a 94 Camry, all with
similar mileage) My question is, do 93 Accords shift from 1-2, & 2-3 with perfect smoothness or do you feel some light jerking between the gear change? I.E. about 1/2 as much if you were driving a standard of the same model? I am used to a very smooth tranisition between gears and at low speeds and that is not what I get from this Accord. I think it's normal but I'd love to hear from other 93 owners & a tech if possible. Also, while in D idling I notice a slight vibration in the steering wheel, and after a couple of minutes it gets slightly worse, it's not rattling my teeth or anything but is this normal? The AC is not on when it does this, and if I turn the AC on it has no effect on the vibrating. I remember when I asked the dealer about the same problem in the 92 I owned they said 'it's normal'. Last question, the radiator was just replaced due to a crack, the temperature gauge on the dash shows the temp to stay about 1/8 " above 1/2 way between C & H, is this normal? Thoughts?
Is Honda a good manufacturer? read on... and make your own conclusion.
As a follow-up to message# 634, here is what I experienced:
On Jan 9, 2001, I sent in my Accord 2000 SE, and reported to the Service Advisor that recently there is significant increase in noise and vibration whenever I turn on the headlight, and I did NOT have this problem before. As usual, he verified the symptom/problem, took note of it and asked me to pick up the car in the afternoon.
Then around 3:30pm, he called me saying that they could NOT fix the problem, AND in fact, this is NOT a problem. Because they have checked other two similar Accord, all exhibiting this characteristic, but at different degree. So there is nothing they can do about it, even though I told them I didn't have this annoying characteristic before.
Then because I still didn't believe Honda would actually make such a design mistake and just let the noise/vibration go on like that. I made a call to American Honda Customer Service, and after a long talk and several verification/confirmation, the guy over the phone finally told me that, YES there will be additional noise/vibration when the headlight is turned on, and Honda can NOT do anything about it even when the noise/vibration causing discomfort.
So can you believe this, it is design defect and Honda knows it.
Although I agree to say that this defect probably will not cause safty problem in short term, but I'm sure it will cause some kind of trouble later. Because generally the noise/vibration implies some sort of kinetic imbalance with the motion mechanism, and kinetic imbalance will lead to uneven wear-out to the mechanical parts much quickly. So in the long term, we may have big problem. We just don't know it now.
So try to test your Honda Accord, see whether you have the similar problem. You start your car, release hand-brake, shift to "R" or "D", and put your hands on steering wheel, listen to the noise, feel the vibration, and then turn on headlight. Feel the difference ? --- difference may vary from car to car, you are lucky if there is no difference for your car.
Anyway, anybody has any idea how to solve this problem ?
Sigh!
ZJ
Majority of consumer made problem categories are not recognized by manufacturers even though some of them are real.
I just brought it to the dealer and told me my starting problem is due to all the new emissions controls. They also said that it was due to me running the car low on fuel. Funny thing is, I always keep it full and have no problems starting any of my other cars.
I also realize that automatic trannies tend to shift a little harder until the fluid warms up, but this car seems to have a sudden thrust between the shift.
The dealer also told me that I've obviously never owned a Honda before and this is normal for a Honda. Funny thing is we traded a 97 Civic on this car at that dealer.
I think they're full of it and was wondering i fanyone else is experiencing the same?
As for the temp and vibs, with a moderate outside temperature(60 or higher) about half way is normal. On colder days it really should be below the half way mark but again slightly above half will be ok until the summer rolls around then it may need attention.As for the vibrations, some amounts are normal but I have seen alot of the front mounts going bad and they cause a higher than normal vibration so you may want to have it looked at if it seems to be a bit more than you think it should have.
What is your experience with synthetic oil? I have been thinking about switching my 2000 4 cylinder coupe to Mobil 1. It is highly recommended by some people, while others think it is a waste of money???
I like mobil 1 but you don't really need it if you change your oil often.I always try to use the best products that I can afford for my cars and almost always go OEM, which we all know cost more and some say isn't worth it either.With that said if you feel Mobil 1 is the choice for you then Mobil 1 it is. I use castrol gtx in mine in case you wondered.
Dealer examined car and has stated the noise is normal in very cold weather.
In the letter I sent him detailing the problem I provided some of the suggestions in this forum. Dealer provided a free oil change with filter.
Have not heard the noise since but it has not reached sub-zero temperatures yet. What's interesting is I do not experience this noise with my HO or my former Lumina and 89 NY'er. They are or were all V-6's. Maybe that was the difference.
In any event thanks for your help.
I find any electrical load (e.g. lights, defroster) makes the symtoms worse.
So far no luck with dealer. I'll let you know ...