My 2 year old Honda Accord factory alarm system is acting up-- intermittently. Sometimes when you start the engine the alarm goes off as if you pressed the panic button. You can stop it by turning off the engine and pressing the remote unlock button several times. If you try starting again, it may go off or it may be reset and be fine for a week or a day. Anyone have a clue as to what might cause this and if the cause can't be found, can the alarm be disabled?? The Honda service reps say they must see it do the problem. Thanks, Frustrated
I have a 1996 Honda (I have had it for 3 months) with the 2.2 liter 4 cyl. non VTEC engine with 44,000 miles. It makes a clicking sound that I had taken for valve noise. I had the car in for the balance shaft seal recall and asked the tech to check the valves. They said the valves sounded fine, and did not adjust them.
A few days later I opened the hood to listen for myself, and when I put my ear to the valve cover I could hear the valves ticking away, but they were fairly quiet, and you could not hear them unless you were right up close. The other ticking was still there, but seemed to be coming from lower down in the engine. It occurs at about 240-300 ticks per minute (4 to 5 per second), and is present even when the car is fully warmed up.
Overall the engine seems course sounding to me. It idles quite loudly (when you are outside the vehicle). It is quiet under light load, or when cruising, but during moderate acceleration it is quite noisy (sounds kind of like an older Subaru boxer engine, but not quite that bad). I did test drive a 2.3L VTEC that still seemed a little course during acceleration, but was smoother overall and there was no tick.
Is the 2.3 VTEC generally smoother than the 2.2 non VTEC?
Is this behavior (ticking and course sounding) typical of Honda engines (had a Toyota 4-cyl that seemed smoother) or is there something that may be wrong with mine?
I'm following this forum for a while. Appreciate the contributions by auburn63 and others. I'm starting to become a fun of car maintenance and repair by reading the posts. I have a 96 accord and no problem since I bought it new. Just oil chance and regular maintenance cost on this car. I bought a manufacturer service manual and plan to do the maintenance work myself. It seems pretty easy to do the valve adjust by follow the service manual. There are some details I am not quite sure. Appreciate your inputs whoever done this: 1. It seems that no enough room to put a wrench on the crank pulley nut to rotate it counter clock. Do I need to remove anything out of the way? 2. Do I need to remove the belts? 3. Do I need to disconnect the wires of the alternator? 4. The manual says that it is needed to re-torque the nut to 180 St after the adjustment. How can that kind of torque on the pulley not turn the engine with manual or auto transmission? Thank you advance and I think some other guys over there reading this forums might want to get hands dirty.
ticking noise, If you are correct in your discription and it is a tick rather than a knock then I would either suspect a loose timing belt which to me sounds more like a slapping but may sound like a tick, or a valve noise.94-96 had a small problem with the #2 intake rockers.They would wear premature and need replacement. To diag this you would need to check the valve clearance and if found to be more than a few mm/thousands out of spec then probably would need it.
Accordic, 1.If you turn the wheel all the way to the left and look at the splash shield you will see a cut out section. Bend those out or in and use a 19mm socket on an extension to turn the crank pulley.No need to re-torque that bolt it is a bear to get off. 2.Do not need to remove any belts 3.Do not need to disconnect any wires except for the ground wire that goes to the valve cover.The other wires can be cleared on removal and install by moving them slightly. 4.No need for a re-torque godzilla can't get that bolt loose most of the time. Good luck and have fun
I have a 2001 EX-V6 with 3500 miles. I noticed the oil light blinking every once in a while and checked my oil and it didn't even register on the stick. It took 3 quarts to get it to the full line. I called my dealer and they want me to come in and have it checked. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so, what was the cause? By the way, I am still waiting for 5000 mile to do the first oil change. Thanks for the help! PS Haven't noticed any other problems.
We have not seen any with consumption problems. We have seen one or two with leaking oil pans or rear mains but thats not the norm.If there is no leaks have them(which I am sure they will anyway) start an oil consumtion test. That involves them filling it up to full and you stopping back by for them to re-check as 500 or 1000 miles go by.Good luck.....
My 1990 Honda Accord Automatic with 116,000 miles, intermittently hesitates shifting into reverse for a couple of seconds, all other shifts have been normal. Fluid level is normal and changes were made at about 30,000 miles increments, although last 2 were not Honda Fluid. Is this a sign of impending failure? Or are there perhaps other things worth checking? Thanks for any information.
One final question. How do you differentiate between a tick and a knock? I know it is hard to describe sounds. If the engine sound is a knock, what does that mean?
My take is that a knock is the sound from using low octane fuel, and a tick sounds like tapping two pencils together. I would say the main diff is the knock is louder, but how loud is loud?
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I have a 1991, Accord, LX, automatic, which exhibits a vibration while at idle and in gear. It is most noticeable in reverse gear. I noticed that the front engine mount (the torsion engine mount) does let the engine rotate/shift a fair amount when a shift is made from park to drive or reverse. I don't know what is typical though. I looked at a new front torsion mount and it had a fair amount of movement within itself. It was not a stiff mount by design. My question is: How much should the engine transfer/shift/rotate under acceleration or engagement of gears with an auotmatic? Also, if the front mount is shot, does it result in the failure of the other mounts? Does the front torsion mount typically fail due to its inherient application and it being located beside the high temperature of the exhaust manifold?
Finally, how many engine mounts are their? I only see three, one front and two side. Their is a mention of a rear mount in the Haynes' repair guide. It was described as electrical though. Any input would be appreciated. Calling any gear heads.
wdoran, Well I think at this point is would be a worth wild venture to have a trans flush. There are machines that work well and there are manual labor procedures. Either way they sometimes cure sticking valves or partially blocked pressure holes.Honda doesn't advise the use of any additives so you may have to request that they do not use any. Also the Honda trans fluid is better and does make a shift quality change.Also have them look at it for you while you are there and see what they think.Good luck
Dudleyr, A knock noise is more of a deeper noise than a tick and usally unless real bad will only happen on a load situation.They octane noise is more of a ping but would be closer to a tick than a knock if that helps any.
ahughes2, There are four mounts, one is on the pulley side of the motor,2 is on the transmission, 3 is bettween radiator and motor(front side), 4 is opposite 3 on the rear beam and attaches to the motor and trans.The rear mount (4) is operated by vacuum which is controlled by a solenoid.You can test that one by having someone in the car in gear and pulling off the vacuum hose going to the mount. If the vibration gets worse then it is ok but if no change then it could be bad.The front(3)mount really needs to be taken of the car and looked at to be 100% that it is bad but we see alot of them go bad and cause vibs.Other possibilities are tight valves, intake manifold leaks to high idle, too low idle and balancer belts misinstalled.Good luck
I removed the engine torsion mount which is #3 in the above post by Auburn. One of the webs in the mount was cracked all the way through. This mount being located next to the exhaust surley limits its life span due to high temp. , thus dry-rotting it and finally cracking. The magnitude of the vibration was reduced when I replaced it. The other mounts were probably stressed by #3's failure. The small vibration it has now is tollerable. Thanks for the info. Auburn.
I have a problem with my Integra. It's a 95 LS with low miles (45K). I haven't had the 30K maintenance done on the car, otherwise its well cared for(regular oil changes and such). I noticed recently that there is a oil leak from the engine. From the looks of it, the engine has been leaking for a few days (a week or so). My dealer says that it could be a major repair (I took it in for some bodywork and he noticed it). I haven't noticed anything amiss while driving. The oil leaks from the engine gasket at the top. What should I do? If it is a major repair, how much can I look forward to paying for it? Also, should I get it repaired elsewhere if it turns out to be a major repair?
Hi ... I have 2k Accord SE (automatic) and put in about 6k miles. So far so good. The last time I checked the fluids, I noticed that the Coolant level is way below the MIN mark, I looked at the Manual and states that they recommend to use THEIR antifreeze/coolant (Honda Brand) otherwise it damage you coolant ... Is this TRUE or NOT ? Are they saying that to compel you to buy their products ? I read also about other fluids (engine/washer/transmission) and they didn't recommend any Honda fluids ... I'm just about to go to my dealer and buy the antifreeze/coolant but I need to have your opinions ....
Read your manual a bit more closely: you'll find they require proprietary Honda fluids for ATF, power steering, and coolant. I would follow their advice - the stuff is readily available across the counter at the parts dept, and unless you know for sure the chemistry of the fluid you want to substitute for theirs, my reaction is one of caution. In this one area, I tend to be strict about following the requirement in the manual.
I have been thru this entire board and not found much discussion on my issues:
'96 EX Sedan 1. ABS light comes on momentarily accompanied by a tick from behind glove box, pop on the radio, and the speedo dances to zero and back. This appeared a little over a year ago. The dealer jiggled some wires and it went away but has now returned. The dealer cannot fix it. It eventually goes off and appears to have no adverse affects on the car. Anybody else seen this?
2. AC system leaking and needs $650 worth of work. Any comments on AC problems at, IMO, such a young age?
I haven't gotten on here for a long time know, so I am sure this question has probably been asked and answered already. I have a 2000 LX/V6 and I have watched closely the gas milage after 15000+ miles now (mostly free way miles). I might have gotten 25 miles to the gallon, at most, on long road trips. Any one else have such bad numbers? Also I noticed that my speedometer is off by 3 to 4 miles/hr (shows 75 when actually about 71-2). I used measured miles and a second driver/car as a reference and both showed the discrepancy. I do remember this problem being discused months ago, but can't remember the solution. I have to take in the car soon, so should I have the dealer fix or replace it? One last thing, has any one delt with a water leak INTO the cabin on the passenger side under the glove box? We have. Supposedly the dealer found and fixed it before, but we just got rain here in Phoenix and the carpet is wet again!
I'm having a problem that I haven't heard of anyone else having. I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl with automatic transmission. For many months I've been having a problem with the key not wanting to turn all the way to come out of the ignition. It stops in the position where the radio and such are still on and won't go any further. At the same time, I cannot press the shift button in to shift out of Park. I can turn the key back the other way and re start the car, but can't turn it all the way back to get it out. I know the brake is connected to shifting out of park, and I've tried pressing the brake, pulling the emergency brake, turning the car back on and then off again, etc. Usually I just sit and wait a couple of minutes and it'll just finally turn all the way like it never had a problem!
It's not the key - I've used all of my keys. Because the shifter won't shift out of Park when this is going on, it's gotten to the point where I leave the car in Drive at drive-up windows because I'm afraid if I put it in Park, I won't be able to leave! It's actually happened to me at the drive-up window of my bank, and also at the end of my drive when I left the car running in Park while I crossed the street to get the mail. I've also had to leave the keys in it once or twice because I didn't have enough time to just sit and wait. I'd throw something over the steering wheel so you couldn't see the keys hanging out and use my spare to get back in.
Also, I've had major problems with the electric windows on this car (I bought the car used). The driver's window was rising outside the guide track on the way up and I had to pull inward on it while going up to make it stay in the track. The passenger window was also making a lot of noise on the way up. I was told that the regulators were bent and I had them replaced in both front doors. The windows are going up OK now, but there is still a lot of noise going on inside the door when they're used. It sounds like metal bending each time.
I love my Honda. It's been a very mechanically sound car for me, but it's definitely had it's quirks. I have never replaced so many tires on a car in my life. And never have I had a windshield take as many rock hits or crack as badly as the two I've put on this car. It's like a huge magnet that just attracts rocks to jump up on my hood and slide on up.
Last week I filled the tank of my new 2001 Ex-6 for the first time and used Mobil, since it has been recommended by some of the Town Hall participants. Today I had to refill the tank and figured my mileage at 17.8 mpg. What gives? This is awful. I know that mileage is supposed to improve at about 6,000 miles, but this seems awfully low. I'd appreciate knowing what others aree getting. By the way, about 80% of my driving is on streets, about 20% freeway.
What exactly did the dealer find? Did they tell you? I dealt with water leakage on the driver side after having a new windshield installed. It wasn't obvious that it was coming from the window as there was no drip or run anywhere inside the glass. But it was coming down behind the dash and totally soaking the front floor, under the driver seat, and the back floor. Come to find out, the guy who installed my glass did not properly seal it under the molding. It took 2 visits to get it done right. I told them it was a good thing it leaked on the driver side because I have a computer under the carpet under the glove box on the passenger side, and also under the passenger seat.
Hi, The PGM-FI light comes on while cruising at light throttle settings between 2000 to 3000 RPM. If I keep the RPMs over 3000 at freeway speeds the light does not come on. I have replaced the O2 sensor in the exhaust header and this did not seem to help. Switching the ignition off and back on will reset the light. Is there another sensor that should be replaced or something else that should be done? Car has about 148,000 miles, is well maintained and no other problems. Thanks, Paul
Just purchased an 2001 accord ex v6. I've noticed wind noise coming from the drivers side when i go about 30 mph. Its seems to be the outside mirror. If I collapse it, the noise goes away. Pop the mirror back out, it returns. Is this normal for accords?
I have a 91 EX Accord w/ 170k miles-and overall it's been a real sweet little car -Lately tho, it has displayed symptoms of a failed Speed Sensor (Speedo pegged low, Sport Mode Transmission light flashing, Check Engine comes on after about 5 minutes, and ECU shows a code #17).
My questions are: 1) Where IS this sensor and its cabling. 2) Is this something a shadetree mechanic can FIX / replace?? 3)If I CAN do this myself...are special tools needed?
My CHILTON (actually it's a Haynes)doesn't show it , and says to take it to a dealer for evaluation. Haven't found any details on the NET regarding this fix.
Please give your advice - as I'd HATE to pay $500.00 to the local Honda joint when I can buy an $80.00 part & do it myself.
First let me expound on the leak. The very first problem I had was air blowing in from the bottom passenger corner of the windshield. Two window "reseals" later I discovered the leak. Then the third reseal, and I still have a leak. I was able to feel up under the dash with my wife driving, while it was raining, and could feel the water running down a cable. Now I don't know that that couldn't mean that it is coming through the fire wall, but a possibility? Wind Noise: yep, you got it. This is the biggest fault I have with my Honda (other than the leaks). I noticed the wind noise right off myself. I have read in some other places that this is pretty much standard, and my guess is because of the way the mirror housing is designed and placed. Just going to have to live with it and hope Honda realizes it and fixes future designs. Question: Anybody know about the speedometer problem?
Now that I've had my 2001 Accord Coupe for 3 weeks, I am ready to lodge my first legitimate complaint. This only applies to Accords with the I-4 5-spd. Second gear is geared too long. If the car seems a bit sluggish with low-speed acceleration, I've determined the cause is the misplaced second gear.
Honda recommends shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15 mph for normal acceleration. This means you are shifting at about 2800 rpm. However, because 2nd gear has a 1.777 ratio, shifting at 15 mph means the engine speed drops to 1500 rpm. If you've driven any Honda 4-cylinder, you know that the engine is absolutely dead at that speed and acceleration really suffers. I've found that to get good normal acceleration, you need to stay in 1st until you hit 22 mph or 4000 rpm. If you shift into 2nd at this speed, the engine drops down to about 2200 rpm, which is just high enough to keep the torque output flowing. Honda's recommended shift points for 3rd, 4th and 5th gears are reasonable. It's 2nd gear that's an issue.
I'm not automotive engineer, but it seems to me a ratio like 1.950 would be a better choice for 2nd gear. With this ratio, you could shift from 1st to 2nd at 18mph and the engine speed would drop from 3350 to 2000. As it stands now, you really need to hold on to 1st gear for a while so the drop to 2nd doesn't kill performance.
2nd gear on a manual transmission is often dubbed the "power gear". 1st is used just to get you going, and 3-5th gears are for cruising at various speeds. With a long 2nd gear, the Accord fails miserably accelerating from a 10 mph coast. Often I find myself slowing down to 8-10 mph in traffic and then needing to accelerate. Well, to protect the drivetrain, you are locked out of 1st gear above about 5 mph (which is too conservative). So, basically, you are stuck with 2nd gear. At 10 mph, 2nd gear spins the engine at 1000 rpm. This means the engine will lug and sound sick if you give it throttle. The only solution I've found is to come to a near-stop and then use 1st to get going. Perhaps this is normal for other cars, but my torquey Ford Contour V6 could start out in 2nd gear without the same issues.
I wonder if Honda engineers had a sly motivation for selecting such a long 2nd gear. At the engine redline of 6250 rpm, 2nd gear produces a road speed of 62 mph. So you only need to shift once in a 0-60 run. I wonder if they were after good 0-60 figures, at the expense of real-world versatility.
Of course, if you really need to haul butt, redlining 1st and 2nd produces fine acceleration. But overall performance would be more appealing if 2nd gear were steeper.
ABS light and elctrical problems, if it is not a loose connector in the area it was last time then it may have a bad fuse box or ignition switch even.When experiancing the problem try to reposition (slightly)the ignition switch. If that doesnt work try pushing on the inside fuse box.Try those first but we have not seen many like yours.
Gas milage I don't have an answer for and the odometer will be and is more acurate than the speedometer is but both have a tolerance and it seems as if yours is within the specs.
The key stuck can be any of the following..A bad brake switch,a bad shift position switch or a bad trans computer. Durring the problem times do you hear a clicking sound with your foot off the brake? If so you need a trans computer for sure.Is the D light on the dash when in park and having trouble?If not then it can be a gear position(inhibitor) switch or bad TCU(trans computer). Plus there is a few other options but try and see about the questions first if you can.
87 LXI you should try and get the code off the computer and that will help lead you to the failing sensor..Probable EGR problem but will need the code.
Speed sensor for the speedometer is located on the trans near the back side and is electrical. Not hard to replace has 2 10mm bolts that hold it in.
Anyone that I didnt answer is due to not having an answer for you at this time but I will try and see..Good luck all...
Can't say much for mileage -I have 16k on my 2k EX i4 auto and average around 30mpg using Mobil. Just had my 15k checkup (also included trans oil change) and the car runs great and has not had one problem.
The odometer in many of the Accords seems to be off by approx. 10% i.e. going 40mph? Nope. Try 36mph. Going 70? Nope. Try 63. How do I know. The local police use the roadside radars that display your speed when you approach. I have gone by (no other cars in front or rear of me) at various speeds and it is always off by close to 10%. About a year ago another new accord owner posted that they had a friend who was a cop and used the radar to verify this and his speedo was also off by 10%. Another had clocked his speedo with a stopwatch and distance meters and his was also off. Someone posted that they did complain to Honda and they said this was within government specifications and they would not do anything about it.
My 98 Accord V6 has 69,000 miles and the transmission has gone out. I don't abuse it, but I don't baby it either... consider myself a normal driver. A friend of mine owns an auto repair shop that specializes in transmissions. He said they told him in a transmission training class this past summer 98 V6's were having transmission prob's but Honda wasn't owning up to it. Anybody have a similar experience or know of one? Should I expect Honda to pay for part/all of the repair or am I pipe-dreaming? Any hidden recalls out there on this? Help
I also have a 91 EX that had the same symptoms as yours has. It had 145k mi at the time(3 mo. ago). The dealer replaced the speed sensor, p/n 78410-SY0-003 ($150.17 + $105.00 labor). If I would have known at the time which sensor it was, I would have replaced it myself. The sensor is located on the intake side of the engine on the distributor end, about 14 inches below the hood line and has a short cable and connector right there. This solved the problem. But it has created a new one. Now the speedo shows the car is going faster than it really is. I've only checked it at 80 mph, which is actually 75 mph. The speedo was within 1 mph before the sensor was replaced. I haven't taken it back yet to see if they can recalibrate the sensor/speedo, because this way my wife may not get speeding tix as much. Hope this helps. Good luck.
I got my '01 EX a week ago and have an intermittent buzz in the radio, AM & FM, and in the CD player (6 CD changer). I can't connect it to anything I am doing at the time although it seems to happen more often when I am going downhill. Anyone else have this problem? I saw a post (#375 by Duper in October) that had a similar problem in his '01 LX but have not seen any followups. Haven't been to the dealer yet but will soon.
Usally that code is a clogged EGR vacuum check valve located in the emissions box on the right side firewall.It is a little vacuum tee like thing that has a very small port in it that doesnt take much too clog up.If it is not that and all vacuum lines are connected and good then it is probably the EGR solenoid.
I have my coolant level at in. When I bought my 99LX 1.5 years ago it was sitting between in and ax. Since then, now it is at in. level. I assume this is normal. Should I buy the coolant, dilute it with water and add it to reservoir or I can just add water. I am so lazy in these days that I don't want to drive to dealer to buy coolant.
You should be checking the resovoir when the motor is cold. If you are and it is at the min then you could add water to the bottle without any problems as long as there is coolant in the bottle now. You would want it to freeze on you.But since it is just a little and there is probably coolant in there then you will be fine..
Hello all this is my first posting in this forum. I own a 98 Accord Coupe EX V-6 with 44,000 miles and just got thru paying $250 for a cleaning of a clogged manifold and Egr valve (my check engine light came on). My question is if anybody has any idea how to prevent this from happening again (maybe a fuel system cleaner periodically?). None of my previous cars have had this problem. Thanks for any advice in advance.
Hello Everybody, I just bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX sedan with auto. I like the car a lot, everything except a little problem from the driver's side seat belt. It works, but whenever I move my body or pull on the seat belt, there is a SQUEAKING noise coming out of it. I don't know if anybody out there ever has this problem. And if there is a Honda mechanic out there or anybody, Do you know if the dealer can just change that snapper(or whatever that thing is called that clip on the belt). Thanks for any responses.
I'm noticing jerky performance from my 99 Accord Coupe V6 transmission.. i've even complained about a tranny shudder that i've been on Honda about for 2 years now.. and let me tell u.. THEY DENY EVERYTHING... they claim the transmission will never go out.. u're the second person complaining about a blown out transmission.. anyways, i'm willing to help you anyway i can.. i'm very close to deciding on getting rid of this car..
A coworker bought a 2000 Accord LX sedan with automatic last year. It's now ready for the 7,500 mile service. In addition to the oil change and tire rotation, the dealer says it needs various "adjustments," which will bring the total bill to $90. I say the only thing this car needs is an oil change and a tire rotation, and the other "adjustments" are nothing more than the dealer's attempt to make extra money. She, however, is afraid of voiding the warranty if she doesn't follow the dealer's recommendations. What needs to be done at 7,500 miles besides an oil change and tire rotation?
You won't void the warranty if you don't get the "adjustments" done. Those adjustments probably are valid, but usually Honda recommends that service at 15K, not 7500 miles. These adjustments typically include adjusting the timing, idle speed and checking the valve clearance. Not bullcrap work, but certainly not necessary for your coworker's car with 7500 on the ticker.
In my opinion, Honda still has trouble making a fine automatic transmission. Toyota's and GM's are a bit better. People complain about the current Accord's shift quality, but you should have felt the 86-89's! BANG! CLUNK! I actually didn't mind the unmistakeable and "tactile" shifting, but it's not appropriate for a modern vehicle.
OTOH, Honda makes some of the finest manual transmissions on the market. Considering the small-displacements of many Honda engines, you really need the manual control and extra gear ratio of a 5-spd. Of course, if you want the V6, you are stuck with the slushbox...but that MAY change with the redesigned 2003 Accord. Stay tuned!
hello everyone, i have a 93 accord and the driver side door window rolls down fine, but will not go back up? what could be the problem and the easiest way to fix it? thanx
Hey bgabel1260, I am curious about that 15000 mile work over you talked about. I just called to schedule mine and they told me different information. Do you think there's a standard check-list or are they "electing" to do just what they can make the most on--or something like that? If I remember right they weren't going to get nearly as "engine" oriented, rather more like rotate tires, oil, and tighten the tie rods. Maybe the guy was just lazy and didn't want to spell it all out for me. By the way, they quoted me about $120 for this check-up. What is everyone else paying? Oh, and amen to the spelling--seems to make up its own mind what spelling will be included. I'll just live with the speling mustakes!
If you have power windows then it probably has a bad power motor.They do go bad internally after a while and usally make a loud grrrrrrr sound. If it just doesn't make any noise trying to go up not even a nprmal motor sound then it could be the switch.Good luck
If I recall now, all those engine adjustments in the 15K service I mentioned were recommended by a local dealer, not something from Honda. That's rather typical since dealers like to make their money on service. And yes, each dealer might recommend different things at each service interval. If you look at your Accord manual, you'll see that you don't need much of anything until 30K. When in doubt, go by the manual.
If they are charging $120 for the 15K service, they are going to do some elective light work like you mentioned. More times than not, it isn't worth the money: either you can do it yourself for a lot less, or you wouldn't notice any benefits unless you keep the car for 150K or the like.
Local Memphis dealers are charging around $161 for this - what bugs me most is the majority of items listed for attention are "inspect" items, not "adjust" items where work is actually done. Other than the standard oil/filter change & tire rotation (which allows visual inspection of brakes, CV boots, etc.), I can't see anything extra that needs to be done. Do valves typically get checked? - seems like the only item worth considering, if the car is running welll. I have personally seen (at some dealerships) how few checks are actually done in the "21 point inspection" frequently advertised. Appreciate some more feedback on this since the 15k check is due on my 1999 LX. Thanks.
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Thanks,
Frustrated
A few days later I opened the hood to listen for myself, and when I put my ear to the valve cover I could hear the valves ticking away, but they were fairly quiet, and you could not hear them unless you were right up close. The other ticking was still there, but seemed to be coming from lower down in the engine. It occurs at about 240-300 ticks per minute (4 to 5 per second), and is present even when the car is fully warmed up.
Overall the engine seems course sounding to me. It idles quite loudly (when you are outside the vehicle). It is quiet under light load, or when cruising, but during moderate acceleration it is quite noisy (sounds kind of like an older Subaru boxer engine, but not quite that bad). I did test drive a 2.3L VTEC that still seemed a little course during acceleration, but was smoother overall and there was no tick.
Is the 2.3 VTEC generally smoother than the 2.2 non VTEC?
Is this behavior (ticking and course sounding) typical of Honda engines (had a Toyota 4-cyl that seemed smoother) or is there something that may be wrong with mine?
Thanks.
2. Do I need to remove the belts?
3. Do I need to disconnect the wires of the alternator?
4. The manual says that it is needed to re-torque the nut to 180 St after the adjustment. How can that kind of torque on the pulley not turn the engine with manual or auto transmission? Thank you advance and I think some other guys over there reading this forums might want to get hands dirty.
If you are correct in your discription and it is a tick rather than a knock then I would either suspect a loose timing belt which to me sounds more like a slapping but may sound like a tick, or a valve noise.94-96 had a small problem with the #2 intake rockers.They would wear premature and need replacement. To diag this you would need to check the valve clearance and if found to be more than a few mm/thousands out of spec then probably would need it.
Accordic,
1.If you turn the wheel all the way to the left and look at the splash shield you will see a cut out section. Bend those out or in and use a 19mm socket on an extension to turn the crank pulley.No need to re-torque that bolt it is a bear to get off.
2.Do not need to remove any belts
3.Do not need to disconnect any wires except for the ground wire that goes to the valve cover.The other wires can be cleared on removal and install by moving them slightly.
4.No need for a re-torque godzilla can't get that bolt loose most of the time.
One final question. How do you differentiate between a tick and a knock? I know it is hard to describe sounds. If the engine sound is a knock, what does that mean?
My take is that a knock is the sound from using low octane fuel, and a tick sounds like tapping two pencils together. I would say the main diff is the knock is louder, but how loud is loud?
Coupes, Convertibles & Sports Cars > Honda Accord Coupe-Part 3
#442 of 442 SQUEAKS, no RATTLES by notm
Anybody want to teach me how to make words link to specific messages, please?
Notm
You can right-click on the message-number link, copy the link, then paste it into a new post. The way the link displays in the new post is a feature of WebX.
For making other "hot" links, check out some of the html tutorials on the web. There are many!
:-)
Pat
Roving Host
I don't know what is typical though. I looked at a new front torsion mount and it had a fair amount of movement within itself. It was not a stiff mount by design.
My question is: How much should the engine transfer/shift/rotate under acceleration or engagement of gears with an auotmatic? Also, if the front mount is shot, does it result in the failure of the other mounts? Does the front torsion mount typically fail due to its inherient application and it being located beside the high temperature of the exhaust manifold?
Finally, how many engine mounts are their? I only see three, one front and two side. Their is a mention of a rear mount in the Haynes' repair guide. It was described as electrical though. Any input would be appreciated. Calling any gear heads.
Well I think at this point is would be a worth wild venture to have a trans flush. There are machines that work well and there are manual labor procedures. Either way they sometimes cure sticking valves or partially blocked pressure holes.Honda doesn't advise the use of any additives so you may have to request that they do not use any. Also the Honda trans fluid is better and does make a shift quality change.Also have them look at it for you while you are there and see what they think.Good luck
Dudleyr,
A knock noise is more of a deeper noise than a tick and usally unless real bad will only happen on a load situation.They octane noise is more of a ping but would be closer to a tick than a knock if that helps any.
ahughes2,
There are four mounts, one is on the pulley side of the motor,2 is on the transmission, 3 is bettween radiator and motor(front side), 4 is opposite 3 on the rear beam and attaches to the motor and trans.The rear mount (4) is operated by vacuum which is controlled by a solenoid.You can test that one by having someone in the car in gear and pulling off the vacuum hose going to the mount. If the vibration gets worse then it is ok but if no change then it could be bad.The front(3)mount really needs to be taken of the car and looked at to be 100% that it is bad but we see alot of them go bad and cause vibs.Other possibilities are tight valves, intake manifold leaks to high idle, too low idle and balancer belts misinstalled.Good luck
The magnitude of the vibration was reduced when I replaced it. The other mounts were probably stressed by #3's failure. The small vibration it has now is tollerable. Thanks for the info. Auburn.
maintenance done on the car, otherwise its well cared for(regular oil changes and such).
I noticed recently that there is a oil leak from the engine. From the looks of it, the engine
has been leaking for a few days (a week or so). My dealer says that it could be a major
repair (I took it in for some bodywork and he noticed it). I haven't noticed anything amiss
while driving. The oil leaks from the engine gasket at the top.
What should I do? If it is a major repair, how much can I look forward to paying for
it? Also, should I get it repaired elsewhere if it turns out to be a major repair?
Thanks
Response is greatly appreciated ...
thanks ... xsite25
I have been thru this entire board and not found much discussion on my issues:
'96 EX Sedan
1. ABS light comes on momentarily accompanied by a tick from behind glove box, pop on the radio, and the speedo dances to zero and back. This appeared a little over a year ago. The dealer jiggled some wires and it went away but has now returned. The dealer cannot fix it. It eventually goes off and appears to have no adverse affects on the car. Anybody else seen this?
2. AC system leaking and needs $650 worth of work. Any comments on AC problems at, IMO, such a young age?
Thx for your feedback,
bteddlie
It's not the key - I've used all of my keys. Because the shifter won't shift out of Park when this is going on, it's gotten to the point where I leave the car in Drive at drive-up windows because I'm afraid if I put it in Park, I won't be able to leave! It's actually happened to me at the drive-up window of my bank, and also at the end of my drive when I left the car running in Park while I crossed the street to get the mail. I've also had to leave the keys in it once or twice because I didn't have enough time to just sit and wait. I'd throw something over the steering wheel so you couldn't see the keys hanging out and use my spare to get back in.
Also, I've had major problems with the electric windows on this car (I bought the car used). The driver's window was rising outside the guide track on the way up and I had to pull inward on it while going up to make it stay in the track. The passenger window was also making a lot of noise on the way up. I was told that the regulators were bent and I had them replaced in both front doors. The windows are going up OK now, but there is still a lot of noise going on inside the door when they're used. It sounds like metal bending each time.
I love my Honda. It's been a very mechanically sound car for me, but it's definitely had it's quirks. I have never replaced so many tires on a car in my life. And never have I had a windshield take as many rock hits or crack as badly as the two I've put on this car. It's like a huge magnet that just attracts rocks to jump up on my hood and slide on up.
Anyone else having these problems? - Thanks!
Hope you find the source of your leak!
The PGM-FI light comes on while cruising at light throttle settings between 2000 to 3000 RPM. If I keep the RPMs over 3000 at freeway speeds the light does not come on. I have replaced the O2 sensor in the exhaust header and this did not seem to help. Switching the ignition off and back on will reset the light. Is there another sensor that should be replaced or something else that should be done? Car has about 148,000 miles, is well maintained and no other problems.
Thanks, Paul
My questions are:
1) Where IS this sensor and its cabling.
2) Is this something a shadetree mechanic can FIX / replace??
3)If I CAN do this myself...are special tools needed?
My CHILTON (actually it's a Haynes)doesn't show it , and says to take it to a dealer for evaluation. Haven't found any details on the NET regarding this fix.
Please give your advice - as I'd HATE to pay $500.00 to the local Honda joint when I can buy an $80.00 part & do it myself.
Thanks in advance.
TRG
Wind Noise: yep, you got it. This is the biggest fault I have with my Honda (other than the leaks). I noticed the wind noise right off myself. I have read in some other places that this is pretty much standard, and my guess is because of the way the mirror housing is designed and placed. Just going to have to live with it and hope Honda realizes it and fixes future designs.
Question: Anybody know about the speedometer problem?
Honda recommends shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15 mph for normal acceleration. This means you are shifting at about 2800 rpm. However, because 2nd gear has a 1.777 ratio, shifting at 15 mph means the engine speed drops to 1500 rpm. If you've driven any Honda 4-cylinder, you know that the engine is absolutely dead at that speed and acceleration really suffers. I've found that to get good normal acceleration, you need to stay in 1st until you hit 22 mph or 4000 rpm. If you shift into 2nd at this speed, the engine drops down to about 2200 rpm, which is just high enough to keep the torque output flowing. Honda's recommended shift points for 3rd, 4th and 5th gears are reasonable. It's 2nd gear that's an issue.
I'm not automotive engineer, but it seems to me a ratio like 1.950 would be a better choice for 2nd gear. With this ratio, you could shift from 1st to 2nd at 18mph and the engine speed would drop from 3350 to 2000. As it stands now, you really need to hold on to 1st gear for a while so the drop to 2nd doesn't kill performance.
2nd gear on a manual transmission is often dubbed the "power gear". 1st is used just to get you going, and 3-5th gears are for cruising at various speeds. With a long 2nd gear, the Accord fails miserably accelerating from a 10 mph coast. Often I find myself slowing down to 8-10 mph in traffic and then needing to accelerate. Well, to protect the drivetrain, you are locked out of 1st gear above about 5 mph (which is too conservative). So, basically, you are stuck with 2nd gear. At 10 mph, 2nd gear spins the engine at 1000 rpm. This means the engine will lug and sound sick if you give it throttle. The only solution I've found is to come to a near-stop and then use 1st to get going. Perhaps this is normal for other cars, but my torquey Ford Contour V6 could start out in 2nd gear without the same issues.
I wonder if Honda engineers had a sly motivation for selecting such a long 2nd gear. At the engine redline of 6250 rpm, 2nd gear produces a road speed of 62 mph. So you only need to shift once in a 0-60 run. I wonder if they were after good 0-60 figures, at the expense of real-world versatility.
Of course, if you really need to haul butt, redlining 1st and 2nd produces fine acceleration. But overall performance would be more appealing if 2nd gear were steeper.
ABS light and elctrical problems, if it is not a loose connector in the area it was last time then it may have a bad fuse box or ignition switch even.When experiancing the problem try to reposition (slightly)the ignition switch. If that doesnt work try pushing on the inside fuse box.Try those first but we have not seen many like yours.
Gas milage I don't have an answer for and the odometer will be and is more acurate than the speedometer is but both have a tolerance and it seems as if yours is within the specs.
The key stuck can be any of the following..A bad brake switch,a bad shift position switch or a bad trans computer. Durring the problem times do you hear a clicking sound with your foot off the brake? If so you need a trans computer for sure.Is the D light on the dash when in park and having trouble?If not then it can be a gear position(inhibitor) switch or bad TCU(trans computer). Plus there is a few other options but try and see about the questions first if you can.
87 LXI you should try and get the code off the computer and that will help lead you to the failing sensor..Probable EGR problem but will need the code.
Speed sensor for the speedometer is located on the trans near the back side and is electrical. Not hard to replace has 2 10mm bolts that hold it in.
Anyone that I didnt answer is due to not having an answer for you at this time but I will try and see..Good luck all...
The odometer in many of the Accords seems to be off by approx. 10% i.e. going 40mph? Nope. Try 36mph. Going 70? Nope. Try 63. How do I know. The local police use the roadside radars that display your speed when you approach. I have gone by (no other cars in front or rear of me) at various speeds and it is always off by close to 10%. About a year ago another new accord owner posted that they had a friend who was a cop and used the radar to verify this and his speedo was also off by 10%. Another had clocked his speedo with a stopwatch and distance meters and his was also off. Someone posted that they did complain to Honda and they said this was within government specifications and they would not do anything about it.
The speedo was within 1 mph before the sensor was replaced. I haven't taken it back yet to see if they can recalibrate the sensor/speedo, because this way my wife may not get speeding tix as much. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Much appreciated,
trg
I just bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX sedan with auto. I like the car a lot, everything except a little problem from the driver's side seat belt. It works, but whenever I move my body or pull on the seat belt, there is a SQUEAKING noise coming out of it. I don't know if anybody out there ever has this problem. And if there is a Honda mechanic out there or anybody, Do you know if the dealer can just change that snapper(or whatever that thing is called that clip on the belt). Thanks for any responses.
OTOH, Honda makes some of the finest manual transmissions on the market. Considering the small-displacements of many Honda engines, you really need the manual control and extra gear ratio of a 5-spd. Of course, if you want the V6, you are stuck with the slushbox...but that MAY change with the redesigned 2003 Accord. Stay tuned!
i have a 93 accord and the driver side door window rolls down fine, but will not go back up? what could be the problem and the easiest way to fix it? thanx
If they are charging $120 for the 15K service, they are going to do some elective light work like you mentioned. More times than not, it isn't worth the money: either you can do it yourself for a lot less, or you wouldn't notice any benefits unless you keep the car for 150K or the like.