Just to let everyone know that I have been having trouble starting the engine on my 2003 Accord V6 also. The dealer confirmed the problem and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. The problem still continues but not as frequent as before. Just to give people a little more info on the issue, turn the car on such that you can hear the fuel pump working, wait, wait, then try to start and you can let it crank away for over 5 seconds and it will not start. Now just last week it did not start the first time then even after stopping the cranking and trying again it still stumbled to a start. I will have it back at the dealer in a couple weeks to see if they can work on the issue again.
Niceguy, how did the dealer know to replace the fuel pressure regulator? Since you still have the starting problem, my interpretation is that they have not solved the problem at all ?
I've put insulating tape around the outside of the glovebox as previously suggested, but the rattle hasn't changed. I've also taken the glovebox out & looked behind it without finding the rattle source. I know my front windows rattle, but this dash rattle is extremely annoying. I'll appreciate any advice. Thanks.
As a follow-up to my post of several months ago, my 03 EX V6 has continued to have intermittent throttle response problems. You can be sitting at a stop and press the pedal and nothing happens. The vehicle has been to the dealer the allotted number of trips and they have made no effort whatsoever to fix. Always "cannot duplicat problem". I sent the Lemon Law letter to American Honda last week.
Last two months, I have the same many rattle problems that you have. I took my car to the dealer, and we went for a test drive. They found the rattle on the Sun Visor and passenger air bag. They fixed wit with warranty coverered no question asks. I thought the rattle came from the dash too. Today I took my car to the dealer again because of a rattle coming from the sunroof and driver door. The sunroof they can't address because it only rattle during long trip, thus, dealer could not hear the rattle during test drive. They were able to confirm to rattle on the door and fix it. If you still have basis warranty coverage, I suggest you take it to the dealer and let them address it. I hope that help!
I had a 99 Accord LX Auto, that had the same stalling issues you talk about. Like your accord, it would stall in any weather condition, and at any time of the day.
There were 2 recalls on the 99 accords that had to do with the ignition, one was the actual ignition, and the other was an electrical issue. I only did the ignition change, and the stalling problem was gone, but I was left stranded once because the car would start at all. The engine would turn but not catch. So, when I contacted Honda they realized that there was another recall (the electrical issue) that hadn't been done on my car, so that was the cause of my starting problem. Well, I didn't stick around to let them experiment, so I traded it in for a new car!
But, try to find if there were recalls for the ignition for the 2000 accords as well. I'm sorry I wasn't much help, but I now how frustrating this must be for you!
I have a 94 accord and do the belt every 90k on my 4th belt If you want to be safe have a mechanic who is familiar with honda belts to check it takes 15 min to take the valve cover off and top timing cover check the teeth and play If you do the belt honda has a recall on the front balance shaft seal . It's a clamp or clip that holds the seal from popping out cost less than 5 bucks if they don't give it to you [very important weather you keep the car or not] although I can't figure out why you would want to sell it
Thanks for the info. Yes, I still have the warranty, only have < 12K miles. When the car was only 2 months old, I took the service advisor for a ride to show the rattles. I don't live near the dealership, so it was a big hassle. The roads around the dealership were all smooth, so he never heard the rattles & said they can't do anything until he hears the rattles. So I've been trying to fix the rattles myself ever since. I've checked my sunvisor. Can you tell me what they did to quiet the passenger airbag? Thanks!
I'm new to Edmunds.com forums, though not to on-line discussion. So y'all be nice and I'll promise not to be obnoxious or totally clueless. So, let's start by hoping Problems & Solutions is the place to post this query.
I'm about to retire my old, old Accord ('87 LXi hatchback, 200,000+ miles). One of this beast's main jobs was hauling our (sea) kayaks from home to water and back. I use a Yakima rack (w/ the extender for more room between the crossbars). The boats ride in saddles (hull-side down), rather than on their sides. I use Yakima tie-downs front and rear on both boats.
Enough background ...
A wagon or car-based SUV would be ideal in many ways for this and similar uses, but the prices in comparison to the Accord just put me off. For instance, compare an Accord EX-V6 sedan to a Passat GLX-V6 wagon, and you'll get the idea (and a Subura is out, as I'm too tall for the interior arrangement).
So, to my real question ...
Would anyone care to share their experience with using Yakima (or Thule) roof racks on '03 / '04 Accord sedans?
The door seal seems to be pretty tight for the rack tower clips to fit w/o causing seal integrity (and eventual replacement) problems. Also, the position on the roof where the tower bottoms would likely sit looks to be a good bit inboard from the door top edges, making for a rather awkward angle for the clips to sit at.
FWIW, I normally leave the rack towers and crossbars on the roof from mid-Spring to mid-Fall. I may remove the kayak saddles to exchange them for my bike carriers. But the rack itself stays put.
Am I asking for trouble in doing this with the latest style Accord sedans? Ideally using a wagon with factory roof rack, plus Yakima accessories added to it (as I've set up on a relative's Outback) would be the more obvious approach, but it just doesn't appear to be in the cards. So, help me out and share your experience / advice.
Please allow me to piggyback on your question. I am also considering a roofrack for my 04 Accord. I am looking at either a Thule or Yakima. However, my question is: Is it okay to install such roofrack on a car with a navigation system? The manual made mention that car windows should not be tinted with metallic compound/ingredient in it because it will distort the navigation/satellite. So, thinking along that line...does anyone have a roofrack with navigation/xm satellite? If yes, then what is your experience? Thanks.
Just got back from my third visit to the dealer. They finally fixed the molding with 3M Sealant. Hope this is the last of the molding problem.
The dealer did nothing with my noisy metal rubbing brake. It's even worse now. I hear the brakes work each and every time I step on it and the metallic rub happens more frequently than before. Yet, it's considered to be normal.
The clunky ABS self check is still clunking.
I have no choice but to live with a noisy car.
Asafonov, thanks for the service bulletin. I'll be sure to take it in with me next time I visit the dealer.
I was just browsing www.handa-accessories.com and noticed they have a roof rack available for the 03-04 sedan. Maybe you can get the specs on it and see if they match the specs for the brand you want to purchase.
You might also try asking the same question (or searching the archives) in the Honda Accord Owners: Accessories & Modifications section to see if anyone there might have a direct answer for your roof rack question.
My engine in my 1990 LX runs extremely rough. I have changed plugs, wires, dist cap. Car has had a hard life with mostly non highway miles and has 130000 miles. Has anyone used a product called sea foam to clean carbon from engine? People on a Maxima board sware by it to make engine run smoother.
Have a shop do a "carbon blast" treatment on it. They will run strong solvents through the intake system.
Rislone works well too. You might buy a can of Rislone concentrate. Put it in the oil and take the car out for a HARD run. Don't be timid when you do this. Keep it in a lower gear and run it close to redline on the tach for a good ten minutes. I wouldn't have believed it, but Rislone really gets the job done!
Never have used it, but other web site board participants I respect give it the thumbs up. It is supposed to softly and gradually dissolve carbon and let it harmlessly burn off with the engines exhaust gasses. If you suspect you have a serious carbon build up problem, be careful about using any quick "blast" type approaches. If a chunk of hardened carbon happens to break off and keep a valve open when it should be closed, you will could wind up with a burnt valve and the prospect of needing an engine rebuild.
I can never be absolutely sure that such a chunk of carbon was the culprit, but after a high RPM blast on my '91 Accord with a similar history to yours, I had a rewarding puff of smoke showing carbon burning, then the agony of the engine running so roughly that I barely made it to the repair shop. Good luck.
All of the time and have never had a problem that I've heard of.
In the old days, mechanics used a spray bottle of water. Talk about scary! It did work very well at knocking the carbon out. A little too much water could shatter a piston.
If vehicle owners would run a "fuel additive / upper cylinder lubricant" on a continuous basis, there would not be a carbon problem in the engine. Sea Foam is a very popular product in the marine engine business. I use Marvel Oil to control carbon in the upper cylinder area.
I have a 2002 Accord SE. January 3, 2004 the car started to smell like garbage. Absolutely terrible! As soon as I started the car, within a few minutes, the smell would reduce. This is so embarrassing when valeting the car. (20 degrees outside and pull up with all 4 windows down). I have had it in to Honda and they keep saying "oh does it smell like rotten eggs"- sulfur- catalytic converter problems, but it doesn't smell like eggs. They have run every test and said they cannot find the problem and it is the gas due to the high sulfur level. Anyone else have this problem? Please help- very frustrated!
We bought a 04 EX-V6 back in Oct 03. My wife loves it, but has one small complaint. Her Passat used to allow her to leave her cell phone plugged in and because the outlet always had power, she could rely on it charging her phone. We never had a problem with it running down the battery in 6 years. Is there a way to change the power outlets in the accord so they always have power instead of only when the key in turned on?
I was under the impression that Honda Vehicles DID NOT SUFFER from a "Carbon Build - Up Problem" in the upper cylinder area of the combustion chamber!----- When I advocated the use of an "Upper Cylinder Lubricant / Carbon Control Agent" in the fuel, everyone jumped all over me!---- In the old days, the mechanic would pour a mixture, (emulsion), of warm water and Kerosene into the Carb. The engine had to be at normal operating temperature, the mechanic had to wear safety glasses, and the engine had to be at a "HIGH RPM" during the process! The emulsion was dribbled VERY slowly into the Carb.---- In addition, there were things called "inverse oilers" that operated only when the engine was under load. YES, the "Carbon Issue" has been around for years, only today, it is being caused by the "fuel", rather than the "engine oil" leaking into the combustion chamber through the valve guides and / or a piston ring / main bering problem. A "Carbon Build - Up" can cause the cylinders to run "lean", because the carbon will "soak up" the fuel before it has an opportunity to burn. Carbon will also cause the valves to "stick" in the guides and / or operate in a "lazy fashion", and it will "lock" the piston rings in their grooves on the piston causing cylinder wear and blow by.
Actually, the carbon build up was most likely caused by oil consumption in my case. My caution regarding the high RPM carbon blast approach was offered more because of the age of the car and the possiblility that there may be a good amount of carbon hardened over the years present. After many years and thousands of miles of short trips, I began some long distance highway traveling and my Honda began consuming oil noticeably, about a quart every 1200 miles. No smoking from oil burning while driving, but it would occasionally emit a puff of smoke on first startup of the day, a classic sign of leaking valve guides. Only near the end did I hear any pinging on 87 octane, which is why I attempted the high RPM carbon blow approach. During the engine tear down, I saw carbon on the crown of the pistons but otherwise the engine was very clean, no sludge in the valvetrain gear, no carbon on the valves. After the engine rebuild and examination of parts, it was obvious that the 12 year old engine's mechanical problems like worn oil control rings and worn valve guides were beyond the help of chemical approaches. Only wound up replacing one valve and thankfully there was no damage to any of the pistons.
BTW, Isell's recommendation is good - his opinion and judgment is one that has proven to be extremely reliable over the years. I was just relaying my experience as caution to those who aren't familiar with the process. As Isell stated, there are many shops that successfully perform carbon blasting under controlled conditions.
Point being, as any car ages and parts begin to wear and tire, some flushes, blasts and other approaches that work wonderfully with newer cars can sometimes have unforseen consequences with older cars. As Isell and greg alluded, some approaches to getting rid of carbon can be dangerous! Turns out that my car had more carbon than I suspected and I MIGHT have caused a problem by using my approach.
lanz, do you park your car in garage and hv the garbage can in there too? I had the same problem with my 03 Accord but I found out it's becaues I park in the garage.. and it explains why the smell goes away after few minutes of drive
My 89 Honda Accord with 260,000 miles, has a problem. It seems to have NO power on hills, high RPM, pedal to the medal and no pick-up. IS IT WORN OUT? Has been a great car, just doesn't seem to be shifting into 4th gear. It's an automatic. Can it be an exhaust problem, air problem, need help please. "Sluggish" is the best description
If your problem is the rotten egg smell called hydrogen sulfide check the catalytic converter I have an 03 Accord Ex-L i complained under warranty and was told to change gas I did change to Exxon from Coastal made no difference. At 8000 they put on a new catalytic converter and the problem went away for the most part 95% On the other hand it could something in car like a dead animal or you hit a skunk or something or bad upholstery
I had something like this happen to me with an old VW Rabbit... turned out the exhaust system was plugged due to a catalytic converter that fell apart. So you may want to check your exhaust system as another possibility.
It was a bad main relay. Check that and the mains. The same thing happened to my mom's 87 Camry. It stopped running on the freeway. Then it just turned bad on before i really noticed what happened. Weird.
Just got my 04 accord v6 this weekend; was hoping I would not be posting to this board so soon, but oh well. I have been noticing a clunking "feel" when turning the steering wheel for the first time after the car has been sitting for at least a couple of hours. It's not a loud noise, it almost feels as if I drove over a small pothole or something like that. I believe it is originating from the front passenger's side, not positive about that though.
Any ideas? It only happens the first time I make a turn, but will reproduce if the car has been sitting for a few hours.
Wanted to be more informed before I get a dealer to take a look...
Since you are in the Honda Sales business, maybe you can answer these questions. There seems to be more problems with the Honda Accord V6, than with the 4 cylinder Accord. (Body noise, Trans Problems, Engine Problems ---etc) ----Why? Are the two cars that different in construction?---When we purchased our 2003 Accord, we tested a V6 Accord. It had a lot of extra power that the 4 cylinder did not have, and it felt like a heaver vehicle, but we did not see the need for a bigger engine, so we purchased the 4 cylinder Accord. We would have liked a 6 way power seat on the passenger side, but we would have had to get the V6 engine for that creature comfort. That does not make any sense. What does an engine have to do with a power seat on the passenger side? I was willing to have the dealer install the power seat on the passenger side, but even this was not a possibility, due to warranty issues with the parent company.
Although I'm not isell, it doesn't require a sales professional to explain this.
As with many low-to-mid-priced cars, a larger engine is considered a luxury/tradeup item, just as are power seats, particularly on the passenger side. It's not that the two features have any specific dependencies or affinities, other than being features that most people, if they're looking to keep the price down, are willing to do without. And that people who decide to trade up would expect to find.
For the record, I agree that it would make sense for Honda to offer a 4-cyl model that provides most or all of the same features that the top line V6 model offers. But I certainly understand the rationale behind the accessories offered with different models, since the Accord has to span market segments from inexpensive affordable mid-sized sedan to entry-level luxury sedan. And I appreciate the efficiencies in their accessory packaging (vs. many individual options, a much more costly approach) that allows them to sell an Accord for less than a comparable Camry, Passat or Altima.
BTW, getting 6-way passenger power seats would have been difficult with the Accord, since NO current model offers them. The only power passenger seat available on the Accord is a 4-way, which doesn't add any adjustment options over the manual seat. It just adds power to the standard manual adjustments (seat fore/aft adjustment, seatback recline). For this reason, even though my Accord has it, I find little benefit in having the passenger side power seat. If they included height adjustment, that would be a different story.
And one more "for the record"... I'm on my second V6 Accord, and the engines have been outstanding. No problems with them whatsoever. And the cars are a blast to drive with all of that power.
With regards to Honda and creature comforts. As you know Honda does not like options and for good reason. It complicates car building and increases costs. I believe they benefit with a substantial cost savings in production and this is partially passed onto the customer. Honda seems to be doing quite well they way they are, I can't imagine them changing this.
I just feel fortunate that Honda still offers a manual transmission on their Accords, too bad not on V6 Sedan. I personally would not consider any vehicle with an automatic transmission.
I just recently purchased a '04 EX-V6 Accord. This is my first car with leather seats. A co-worker has the '03 EX-V6 Accord so I inquired about leather care products. He indicated that he had never cleaned or treated his seats because Honda leather isn't "real" leather. Is this true? Comments appreciated. Also, product recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I would to keep the seats and dash in top condition. Thanks to all.
That's Crazy! I know the diff. between leather and playther. Why would your friend pay for leather without being assured that at least the seating surfaces and the wheel are covered in real leather?
A lot of these "problems", in fact, most of them are pretty trivial. I ride in and drive new Accords on a daily basis and for some reason, I don't hear the squeeks, rattles, clunks, thunks, and other things I read about in these forums very often. In fact, I don't ever think I have heard a squeek or a rattle in a new Honda.
A few years ago, some people were complaining they could hear the gas slosh around in Odysseys.
One quiet night, I was riding in the back of an Odyssey, and, sure enough, I heard it. To me, it wasn't a big deal. Nothing to get worked up about bt to others, this was a "problem".
No car is perfect, not even Hondas. People with problems, real or not tend to seek help in these forums.
As far as leather seating. It's real leather, but only on the actual seating areas and the seat backs. The rest is a good grade of vinyl that matches so well, it's hard to tell the difference.
If you hear someone say their interior is "all leather" they are mistaken.
I have a habit of testing the brakes on my 89 Accord before pulling out the drive way (by gently pumping the brake pedal a few times). The habit carries to the 03 Accord. The other day, I didn't pump the brake pedal on the 03 and pulled out the drive way I heard a clunking noise. So if anyone experiences this clunking noise, try to pump the brake pedal a few times before pulling out of the drive way. If you don't hear the noise when you pull out of the drive way, then you know it's the ABS doing its testing as the others have thought.
Yes, think it is the ABS self check. It has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel, it happens exactly when I first hit 10mph. Searching in past messages, this matches with other people's experiences.
Hi, I have a problem with my 97 Accord EX manual transmission, 110k miles, that I was hoping someone in this forum would know something about.
I am experiencing sudden loss of power in the first couple of miles after starting the car. Doesn't happen every time I start the car, only most. This happens when I'm accelerating or just driving along. It feels like the engine gets stuck in a low rpm state. Pumping the clutch brings back full power for a split second before it loses power again. This lasts for about a minute. When this happens, switching to neutral and depressing the gas pedal all the way shows the tachometer stuck at like 2k or 3k rpm. It always goes away after a minute or so but it's a really bothersome problem.
I put a bottle of fuel system cleaner into the gas tank a couple of weeks ago. It seemed like it solved the problem but it came back in a few days. Any ideas?
I have no idea whitecloud. I personally wouldn't have upgraded from a LX with cloth to an EX-v6 if I thought the seats were not leather. I did have another conversation with this person and he stated that the seats are leather-trimmed which in his mind indicates that some but not all of the seats are leather. Go figure. Anyway, I plan on maintaining my leather seats.
Hi. About a month ago, I posted about what I thought was a problem with my transmission. The issue was that my car (1997 Honda, 100,000 miles) would make a high-pitched sound when (I thought) going up an incline after a standing stop (or near-standing stop, i.e., after waiting at a traffic light). I took my car to the dealer, who did a road test and came to the conclusion that there was a minor hole in part of the exhaust system.
Well, I think I have identified the real source of my problem. The other day I happened to turn on the air conditioner, to clear a foggy windshield (it was raining). The car make the most incredible high-pitched squealing sound and began to strain. I shut the A/C off immediately, and the problem stopped. I then waited a while, turned the A/C back on, and bingo! same problem.
I have an appointment at the dealer on Tuesday (May 11) to diagnose and fix the problem. But in the meantime, has anyone heard of (or experienced) this problem before? What is the cause, and what's going on?
Comments
There were 2 recalls on the 99 accords that had to do with the ignition, one was the actual ignition, and the other was an electrical issue. I only did the ignition change, and the stalling problem was gone, but I was left stranded once because the car would start at all. The engine would turn but not catch. So, when I contacted Honda they realized that there was another recall (the electrical issue) that hadn't been done on my car, so that was the cause of my starting problem. Well, I didn't stick around to let them experiment, so I traded it in for a new car!
But, try to find if there were recalls for the ignition for the 2000 accords as well. I'm sorry I wasn't much help, but I now how frustrating this must be for you!
If you want to be safe have a mechanic who is familiar with honda belts to check it takes 15 min to take the valve cover off and top timing cover check the teeth and play
If you do the belt honda has a recall on the front balance shaft seal . It's a clamp or clip that holds the seal from popping out cost less than 5 bucks if they don't give it to you [very important weather you keep the car or not] although I can't figure out why you would want to sell it
I'm about to retire my old, old Accord ('87 LXi hatchback, 200,000+ miles). One of this beast's main jobs was hauling our (sea) kayaks from home to water and back. I use a Yakima rack (w/ the extender for more room between the crossbars). The boats ride in saddles (hull-side down), rather than on their sides. I use Yakima tie-downs front and rear on both boats.
Enough background ...
A wagon or car-based SUV would be ideal in many ways for this and similar uses, but the prices in comparison to the Accord just put me off. For instance, compare an Accord EX-V6 sedan to a Passat GLX-V6 wagon, and you'll get the idea (and a Subura is out, as I'm too tall for the interior arrangement).
So, to my real question ...
Would anyone care to share their experience with using Yakima (or Thule) roof racks on '03 / '04 Accord sedans?
The door seal seems to be pretty tight for the rack tower clips to fit w/o causing seal integrity (and eventual replacement) problems. Also, the position on the roof where the tower bottoms would likely sit looks to be a good bit inboard from the door top edges, making for a rather awkward angle for the clips to sit at.
FWIW, I normally leave the rack towers and crossbars on the roof from mid-Spring to mid-Fall. I may remove the kayak saddles to exchange them for my bike carriers. But the rack itself stays put.
Am I asking for trouble in doing this with the latest style Accord sedans? Ideally using a wagon with factory roof rack, plus Yakima accessories added to it (as I've set up on a relative's Outback) would be the more obvious approach, but it just doesn't appear to be in the cards. So, help me out and share your experience / advice.
Thanks for reading through the ramble :-)
The dealer did nothing with my noisy metal rubbing brake. It's even worse now. I hear the brakes work each and every time I step on it and the metallic rub happens more frequently than before. Yet, it's considered to be normal.
The clunky ABS self check is still clunking.
I have no choice but to live with a noisy car.
Asafonov, thanks for the service bulletin. I'll be sure to take it in with me next time I visit the dealer.
Good luck!
Have a shop do a "carbon blast" treatment on it. They will run strong solvents through the intake system.
Rislone works well too. You might buy a can of Rislone concentrate. Put it in the oil and take the car out for a HARD run. Don't be timid when you do this. Keep it in a lower gear and run it close to redline on the tach for a good ten minutes. I wouldn't have believed it, but Rislone really gets the job done!
I can never be absolutely sure that such a chunk of carbon was the culprit, but after a high RPM blast on my '91 Accord with a similar history to yours, I had a rewarding puff of smoke showing carbon burning, then the agony of the engine running so roughly that I barely made it to the repair shop. Good luck.
In the old days, mechanics used a spray bottle of water. Talk about scary! It did work very well at knocking the carbon out. A little too much water could shatter a piston.
We got the message ad nauseum!
The cars that carbon up are the cars that never get driven hard. Grandma putts around town and the tach neve hits more than 2000 RPM.
Point being, as any car ages and parts begin to wear and tire, some flushes, blasts and other approaches that work wonderfully with newer cars can sometimes have unforseen consequences with older cars. As Isell and greg alluded, some approaches to getting rid of carbon can be dangerous! Turns out that my car had more carbon than I suspected and I MIGHT have caused a problem by using my approach.
hydrogen sulfide check the catalytic converter I have an 03 Accord Ex-L i complained under warranty and was told to change gas I did change to Exxon from Coastal made no difference. At 8000 they put on a new catalytic converter and the problem went away for the most part 95% On the other hand it could something in car like a dead animal or you hit a skunk or something or bad upholstery
Shouldn't the CEL come on if something is wrong with the cat?
I am curious if your 89 still has the original cat.
Mine does.
#7477
Just got my 04 accord v6 this weekend; was hoping I would not be posting to this board so soon, but oh well. I have been noticing a clunking "feel" when turning the steering wheel for the first time after the car has been sitting for at least a couple of hours. It's not a loud noise, it almost feels as if I drove over a small pothole or something like that. I believe it is originating from the front passenger's side, not positive about that though.
Any ideas? It only happens the first time I make a turn, but will reproduce if the car has been sitting for a few hours.
Wanted to be more informed before I get a dealer to take a look...
Thanks
As with many low-to-mid-priced cars, a larger engine is considered a luxury/tradeup item, just as are power seats, particularly on the passenger side. It's not that the two features have any specific dependencies or affinities, other than being features that most people, if they're looking to keep the price down, are willing to do without. And that people who decide to trade up would expect to find.
For the record, I agree that it would make sense for Honda to offer a 4-cyl model that provides most or all of the same features that the top line V6 model offers. But I certainly understand the rationale behind the accessories offered with different models, since the Accord has to span market segments from inexpensive affordable mid-sized sedan to entry-level luxury sedan. And I appreciate the efficiencies in their accessory packaging (vs. many individual options, a much more costly approach) that allows them to sell an Accord for less than a comparable Camry, Passat or Altima.
BTW, getting 6-way passenger power seats would have been difficult with the Accord, since NO current model offers them. The only power passenger seat available on the Accord is a 4-way, which doesn't add any adjustment options over the manual seat. It just adds power to the standard manual adjustments (seat fore/aft adjustment, seatback recline). For this reason, even though my Accord has it, I find little benefit in having the passenger side power seat. If they included height adjustment, that would be a different story.
And one more "for the record"... I'm on my second V6 Accord, and the engines have been outstanding. No problems with them whatsoever. And the cars are a blast to drive with all of that power.
I just feel fortunate that Honda still offers a manual transmission on their Accords, too bad not on V6 Sedan. I personally would not consider any vehicle with an automatic transmission.
A few years ago, some people were complaining they could hear the gas slosh around in Odysseys.
One quiet night, I was riding in the back of an Odyssey, and, sure enough, I heard it. To me, it wasn't a big deal. Nothing to get worked up about bt to others, this was a "problem".
No car is perfect, not even Hondas. People with problems, real or not tend to seek help in these forums.
As far as leather seating. It's real leather, but only on the actual seating areas and the seat backs. The rest is a good grade of vinyl that matches so well, it's hard to tell the difference.
If you hear someone say their interior is "all leather" they are mistaken.
The habit carries to the 03 Accord. The other day, I didn't pump the brake pedal on the 03 and pulled out the drive way I heard a clunking noise.
So if anyone experiences this clunking noise, try to pump the brake pedal a few times before pulling out of the drive way. If you don't hear the noise when you pull out of the drive way, then you know it's the ABS doing its testing as the others have thought.
It's just an idea.
Thanks you,
Rod Hoeks
I am experiencing sudden loss of power in the first couple of miles after starting the car. Doesn't happen every time I start the car, only most. This happens when I'm accelerating or just driving along. It feels like the engine gets stuck in a low rpm state. Pumping the clutch brings back full power for a split second before it loses power again. This lasts for about a minute. When this happens, switching to neutral and depressing the gas pedal all the way shows the tachometer stuck at like 2k or 3k rpm. It always goes away after a minute or so but it's a really bothersome problem.
I put a bottle of fuel system cleaner into the gas tank a couple of weeks ago. It seemed like it solved the problem but it came back in a few days. Any ideas?
Thanks,
enjoy
http://www.northcoasttuners.com/TSB/
Well, I think I have identified the real source of my problem. The other day I happened to turn on the air conditioner, to clear a foggy windshield (it was raining). The car make the most incredible high-pitched squealing sound and began to strain. I shut the A/C off immediately, and the problem stopped. I then waited a while, turned the A/C back on, and bingo! same problem.
I have an appointment at the dealer on Tuesday (May 11) to diagnose and fix the problem. But in the meantime, has anyone heard of (or experienced) this problem before? What is the cause, and what's going on?