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Comments
Just let them fix the car!
Now that I have this defective bumper shouldn't it be replaced? Anyone's thoughts on what I should do?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
If it were my car, I wouldn't care assuming it looked OK and it was securly installed.
But, it's not my car, it's yours and I think it should be fixed to your satisfaction. I think a repair would be sufficient since it's covered anyway.
Lately it has been getting louder. Obviously I am taking it to the dealership, but any ideas what it could be?
At 10, 20, 30 and 40mph. When I am accelerating it slightly pulls to the front and then back once it shifts. If I accelerate hard then you really feel the jump. Also when trying to cruise at a little about 40 and I let go of the gas paddle RPMs are at 2000RPM and it stays there and feels like it’s dragging. But if I kind of jerk the gas paddle up to about 3000RPM then it goes down to 1400 or 1500RPM and then it doesn’t feel like its dragging. Also when going down a steep hill RPMs go up to like 3500RPM. I guess it’s supposed to do that but I hate it. I get scared every time. My problem is that when I was getting my tranny replaced I asked the dealer to fix this annoying rattle on the rear right from what sounds like coming from the trunk or underneath the car. After I picked it up there was no paperwork about the rattle and so naturally I asked them and they knew nothing about it. So I complained to US Honda Corp and they told me that the dealer does not want you to come back to him because I was rude. Yes I was upset but I wasn’t rude. So it came down to that that dealer is responsible for this tranny because they replaced it but I can’t complain. US Honda Corp told me to prove first if my tranny is bad at another dealer then they can make them responsible. So now I hate this tranny and don’t have a clue how to proof this. What are your thoughts guys?
It happens only when the outside temp. soars into
the 90's, and the car stops and goes in the traffic jam. The calipers were replaced last year. The brake fluid level is OK.
Does anyone know what happened?
A co-worker says there might be a leak in the master cyclinder.
Been to the dealer twicw & they've checked the seat, said it was secure, and they drove it but it didn't happen with them.
I'd like to hear follow-ups on this...
Thanks so much!
The car I am driving has the rear-view mirror upgrade and I noticed that the driver side visor makes contact with the mirror when placed in the down position. This happened several times this afternoon and is quite annoying since I have to reset the mirror everytime. Does this only happen with the mirror upgrade or does standard mirror do this???
I also noticed that in order to adjust the AC fan you have to choose the AC button and switch to that screen on the navigation display and select your fan speed instead of having a simple switch on the dashboard. This may not seem like a big deal but when you first get into the car the navigation product can take up to a minute or so to get past all the legal disclaimers which leaves you sitting there with no airflow until it finishes. FYI, I live in Texas and it is already HOT here.
Are there other little issues hiding out there that I am not yet aware of? Please let me add that the missing key cylinder on the passenger side is of no consequence to me but these other items leave me with the feeling that there are some things Honda did not consider while designing. So far, I do not find these kinds of negative perks with the Acura but I am sure it has it's share.
Any thoughts and comments are appreciated.
PS If anyone is interested, I have worked the following deals after much deliberation over the past month or so (both are Automatic Transmission):
2004 Accord EX-V6 with Navi - $26,000 (includes very good money for my trade)
2004 Acura TL with Navi - $33,700 and OK money for my trade
I checked Honda part on line it's about $140, including the reservoir.
The service manual does not say anything about bleeding the brakes after replacing the master cyclinder. I think I will let the local shop does this if it does not cost too much.
I plan to retire my 89 pretty soon. So I don't know if I should replace it. The brakes still operate under normal condition.
Only when the temp is really hot and there is a lot of braking, the brake fluid is getting hot. That's when the pedal starts shinking.
I have a 2003 Accord EX V6 with the auto-dimming mirror (I assume that's what you're referring to as the mirror upgrade). I use the driver's side visor all the time, and I've never had a problem with it contacting the mirror. Perhaps some issue with the way it was adjusted on the car you tested?
I don't believe that the physical size of either the auto-dimming mirror or the visors changed for 2004.
Also dealer wants to flush out my brake system (fluid) and put new fluid in for $125.00????????
Someone please help ASAP!
THANKS IN ADVANCE
Has anyone had problems with Gas Mileage on 2001 Accord 4 cylinder. In the city i'm averaging way too low --18.5 mpg. Dealer can't find out why and I'm no kid who drive fast around town.
Thanks
Any Solutions deeply appreciated
Teman
Not in a major city where you stop at every corner.
Even Highway mileage is low...23 / 24 mpg
Thanks
So, those of you who know these cars, how big a problem is the 182K? It seems awfully high for a 4-cylinder engine, but it is a Honda, and it appears to have been well taken care of and all parts of the seller's story have so far checked out (Carfax, test drive and inspection, records and documentation).
Thanks for any enlightenment!
--K9Leader, Newark DE
If the Accord has been well-maintained 182k isn't the end of the world. I have seens lots of 200,000 mile plus Accords and you wouldn't know if you didn't look at the odometer. If the car still seems solid and he doesn't put a lot of miles on a car and the deal is good enough then go for it.
There is a simple fix to this issue, leave the setting on automatic with the temperature you wish to maintain. The care will adjust the fan speed accordingly as well as adjust several other factors. This part works even when the Navi has not gone through the legal disclaimers. (Honda designed this car with the assumption that Auto climate control would be used and manual as a secondary measure.)
Has anyone else experienced this or know what is causing the reduction in braking capacity with the AC on in stop and go traffic? Otherwise, my brakes work fine without the AC on or with the AC on at continiuos speeds not using the brakes frequently.
I also compared the TL and the accord. I wanted the TL in the worst way but I ended up chosing the accord. I have no regrets whatsoever. Nothing against the TL...(an AMAZING car) but in MY opinion it was not worth the extra money b/c I got most of the things the TL offered and didn't have to pay 8 thousand more (in my area that was the difference). Another thing that I didn't like was that the dealers weren't willing to really deal on the TL but you can get the accord for well under invoice. Sort of makes you feel like you aren't getting ripped off as bad. By the way...did 26k include ttl? I got mine for 25275 plus ttl...so if it didn't i think you can get them down some more...if that did include then you got an amazing deal!! rich
The price is without TTL but is with a very good trade in deal ($1500 more than other dealers in the area). So are you saying you got the V6 EX for that price? I am impressed with your deal making skills. What are do you live in?
The Acura is VERY hard not to spend the extra money on but it will be a little stretch for us and so we are really leaning towards the Honda. I drove the TL again today and it really is a level up as far as fit, finish and comfort but I am having trouble justifying the value and worth of it.
Browningm, thanks for the solution for the AC. I had thought I might have to try that or maybe use the voice activated function if that works before the disclaimer.
Took accord to dealer to get an ESTIMATE on repairing air conditioner which just recently stopped blowing cold air.
Charged $180 (1 1/2 hrs labor plus coolant) just to get an estimate of $780 to repair. Service mgr. claims the labor cost is typical just to evalutate the CAUSE of the problem.
Is this a rip off or typical for evaluation of A/C problem??
Just had same problem with my 97 accord AC. If the clutch and compressor are still ok-when you turn on the AC-check to see if the clutch engages and then carefully touch the high pressure side of the line going from the compressor to the AC cooler coil in front of the radiator-if that gets warm or a bit hot-then the only problem you have is being low on gas.
Due to govt regs you have to take it to some repair place that has the machine to pull a vacuum on your ac system and check to see if there are any leaks-if not then they measure the amount of gas evacuated from the system and then charge it to the recommended level-there is a sticker under the hood telling the guy how many ounces.
Cost to replace - $780
Cost to estimate the repair - $180
Why so much labor just to find the leak??
So, with 120.00 for labor plus the cost of the freon, it's not out of line in this day and age.
My co-worker told me it's probably the seal in the master cyclinder leaks when the brake fluid is getting too hot.
I guess we either replace the new master cyclinder or avoid traffic jam when the outside temp soars into the 90's. I choose the latter since I only drive it to work.
These are your BRAKES we are talking about!!
I don't remember the exact details, but I got this from a newsgroup and I believe it's accurate:
The clock/flasher assembly pops out as one unit. You can use a screwdriver but be careful not to scratch the dash. I opted for a 1 1/2" wide putty knife. Place tool in bottom middle of the clock/flasher and apply SLIGHT upward pressure and the assembly pops out. (Additional suggestion... put a cloth under the screwdriver/ putty knife when you do this, to avoid marring the dash.) The light is on the right side when viewed from the front, left side viewed from the rear. The round 3/16" diameter plastic head is the bulb. Using a small screwdriver, turn 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove. Install new bulb with 1/4 turn clockwise. Turn on ignition switch to check for operation. (Light comes on with ignition switch not headlights.) If everything works, the clock pops right back in.
Hope this helps!
With decent maintenance they don't get tired until at least 200,000 miles or more. I've seen 350,000 miles, still running fine.
Still, 180,000 miles is a lot. Even with "all highway miles" it's a whole lot of miles.
In order for it to be a "good deal" it would have to be at a near giveaway price. One major event wold total the car.