It's impossible to tell about the deal without knowing the price. I wouldn't purchase except from a good friend if the car is as K9Leader describes. Sounds like it just has too many miles.
I stopped doing major maintenance on my 89 Accord after it passed 100k mark. Besides wear & tear, the only things I replace (according to maint. schedule) after that were the following: the timing belts, plugs, oil, air filter and PCV valve. The fuel filter, dist. cap & rotor have 134k miles on them since I had them replaced at 65k major service mark by the dealer. I have the parts, but couldn't find the time to replace them yet. Amazingly, the car still gets 28 MPG on highway as indicated on the invoice sticker.
I agree, for it to be a good deal, it would have to be at a near giveaway price. At 180k miles, the following repairs are expected if they have not been done recently: a second timing belt job, alternator, CV shafts, ball joints, a brake job, and the list goes on.... The transmission if it lasts this long, it would continue to last.
Adding those expected repair costs, I would rather take the money and buy a new Civic. My 2 cents.
Suppose the buyer plans to use it as a second or third car. Maybe it'll get driven 5-7000 miles a year. If this is the case, and IF it passes a strict inspection, AND, the price is reflective of those miles,it could be a GREAT deal.
It could easily go another 50-100,000 miles with little trouble. It could last someone for years.
Now, if the buyer intends to beat it to death on the road and drive it 15-20,000 miles a year it would probably be wise to look for something else.
We bought several Hondas over 100,000 miles. Never a problem. My all time favorite car was a 108,000 mile 1987 Civic Wagon that I paid $500 for because the timing belt broke and it had a brick in the windshield. Another $500 in repairs and it ended up taking us to Canada, up the east coast a few times, and many other trips. I never looked at the odo. I give the entire car a chance.
Evaluate a used car STRICTLY by the odometer reading. Certainly important but not an end all. A lot of high mileage cars are actually in better shape than the low mile "grandma" car that never got on the freeway and never had a chance to warm up properly.
Wondering if someone has any suggestions. I own a 1992 Honda Accord with automatic transmission. Yesterday while driving down the interstate my car suddenly jumped to 5500 rpms and in order to maintain speed I had to keep it there. After pulling off the road and putting car in park the D4 light stayed on as well as the light of any other gear I put it in. The car does not seem to be changing gears and I've had no transmission problems. Car will go in park, reverse, etc. but acts like you are starting out in higher gear when going forward.
My beautiful 2 month old 2004 Red Accord was keyed this past weekend. I have stopped crying long enough to try and think about getting it fixed. The scratch covers the back passenger panel above the tire, both doors, and the front passenger panel above the tire. The scratch is very deep, I don't think you can see the primer gray underneath but there is a definite "ridge". It looks like they walked the length of my car, and then backtracked since there are 2 defined lines. What do I do? I have been told that the mark is so deep that it will need to be re painted instead of buffed out. Has this happened to anyone else? About how much should/did it cost? Once it was painted could you see a difference in the factory paint and the repair? Please help! This is my first car and I am devastated...
I have a 2003 Accord with 30K miles on it. I took a curb this afternoon and took a nice gouge out of sidewall of the tire. I am told I should replace this tire soon to prevent a blowout. The car came with Michelin Energy's that I am not reallly impressed with. These tires on tirerack are almost $150. Since the tires have almost 30K on them I am thinking about replacing all four tires with something else, since I will probably need to replace them before my lease is up and I might as well get the use out of the new tires. (I will probably put on another 25K before the lease is up.) I have heard good things about Bridgestone Turanza. Any other opinions?
gilberta: Once your car is repainted more than likely you will be able to tell a difference between the factory paint and the repaint. Good news is that since the whole side is being repainted it will not be as obvious. More bad news is that repainting the entire side of your car will more than likely decrease the value of the car. Maybe you should try a detail shop first and see if a good buff will make it bearable. In the meantime park as far out away from everyone as you can when in public parking lots.
jeffrey: I recently had an unrepairable flat in my 04 Accord (had 15k on it at the time). Cost for replacement was $145 through discounttire.com. I also debated just buying a set of cheaper tires instead of replacing only one but decided that the Michelin's were still a better tire with a higher mileage rating. We ended up paying $170 for the replacement tire but received lifetime rotate and balance as well as road hazard coverage on all 4 tires. Since your Michelins do have some life left in them you may want to consider putting the 3 remaining tires on ebay. Even if you only get $100 for 3 of them that's $100 off your new set of tires.
Also, when we replaced my Michelin the tire shop gave me a prorated credit due to an agreement they have with Michelin. You may want to bring this up to your tire shop.
Hi, I'm new to this board. Trying to pry off the blinker light lense on my wifes honda..Any special method to pop off this cover? There are no screws seen from the outside of the car holding the lense. I pried a few times and the lense cover is starting to chip! According to her manual, it says just to pry it off if no screws are present. Maybe I'm too leary of busting the lense? Seem correct in just prying harder to pop the lense off to get to burned out bulb? Ger
I've got a 92 Accord with a 154,000 miles on it. Lately I've been experiencing a creaking noise coming from the driver's side of the dash around the 'A' pillar that occurs when going around curves on mountain roads. I beleive it's the padded dash that's loose, but I can't find the fasteners under the dash. Does anyone know how or where the padded dash is attached to the body and how to tighen it down?
I thought you have to remove the side marker lense in order to replace the bulb. If you have to remove the lense, I would replace all two bulbs because it's pain in the neck to remove the screws that hold the lense.
Thanks 69mach1. It is the front passenger blinker lense. I did not see screws on the lenses of the side marker lights either. I'll try to pry the passenger side one off tonight to see if I can get the bulb on the front lense. Definitely cannot access it from underneath..
The screws are inside the two holes. You need to open the headlight up to see them. There is a 3rd screw with a clip. I don't know if you have to unscrew this one. You may need to remove the headlight cover so you have room to work with these screws.
I have Bridgestone Turanzas on my wife's Altima, and they are a great tire. I am in fact planning to replace the Michelin's on my 03 Accord (36k miles) with either turanzas or RE 950 potenzas. Both are available at the tire race, Turanzas for around 90each, and potenzas for 80 each.
keep in mind that the potenzas are unidirectional tires and rotation is different.
My 03 Ex V6 developed a sunroof rattle after about 9 months. The dealer today took the headliner off and applied some tape to it. Seems to be gone now but I'm not sure if that is a permanent solution. I suspect tape was used in the factory then 1 day just broke loose. We'll see.
BTW noticed that when looking down on the sunroof it seems a bit sunken instead of meeting flush with the metal roof. Mainly a bit in the middle...wonder if this is a problem?
I took my V-6 6 speed coupe in yesterday for the 3rd time for the headliner making a cracking, popping sound. I explained to the service rep what I thought the problem was, it seemed to me that the adhesive was not sticking like it should causing the headliner to make noise. I got a call today from Honda and they told me that there are strips of velcro that go across the roof and the headliner and these strips were not holding. The rep said that they were going to purchase better strips and add more so that the headliner should stay in place. I will let you all know how it works out. I still LOVE this car though, I have had it now for 5 months and I still smile getting into it.
We bought our first Honda today. The color is graphite. We didn't do a good look over until all the paper work was done. I noticed three tiny scratches, one on hood, one on trunk and one on side of passenger door. Each one is about __ as long as that underline. The dealer said it's not all the way thru to metal. It won't buff out and we could bring it back on Thursday for some touch up paint and clearcoat. The dealer said we'd be able to see the touchup, but if we didn't point it out no one else would be able to see it. My brother in law said not to touch it up because we will see a difference. My question: Is it best to just live with the small scratches or get them touched up? Thanks for any input. I'm just not sure what to do. Also, thanks to everyone who posts on this board! Deb
My 2003 Honda Accord EX-6 with Nav has experienced multiple brake failures and I was almost killed because of this. My car has been in the shop multiple times, starting since the day after I purchased the car. Honda Corporation cannot find the problem and refuses to help me since they can't fix it. They were sympathetic to my near-death experience, but won't declare my car a lemon. The local service people were very nice, but the fact that Honda refuses to help correct the problem is unacceptable. I have to hire a lawyer to help me.
I lost ability to open/lock doors the other day. It seems I can also only roll down the windows on driver side now. While all windows work, I cannot roll down passenger side windows from driver's seat. Any ideas what this is? My husband checked the fuses and thought they looked ok.
I'm bummed since my car only has about 60k miles on it.
Yes, a new car **should** be pefect when it's delivered. In the real world, however I can probably find, if I look hard enough, small scratches on any new car.
Drive that new car two weeks and it'll have more of these. From your description, they sound like they aren't worth messing with.
If it were my own car, I wouldn't worry about it unless they can be easily seen.
Thanks. We just weren't sure about getting them fixed. Anyway we bought the car for our son whose away at college. He didn't want one until he graduated because he didn't want it to get messed up. He really needed one. We've put 4 alternators in his current car in 12 months - ever since we had an MP3 player installed. It might be a coincidence, but I believe there's a problem with the installation. It's a 92 Stanza with 150,000 miles on it. So we got our money out of it.
We also have an 03 graphite pearl, and it does show scratches easily. However whatever scratches it does have came from heavy contact with something, like a suitcase hitting the rear bumper while being taken out.
Furthermore, that car, and 3 other Accords we purchased from a Southeast volume dealer, did not have scratches when delivered.
While true that "eventually it'll have scratches anyway," I'm not sure how folks paying $20k will take to this advice. If there are flaws, a reputable dealer will correct them.
That said, I'd ask the dealer's detailman on retainer how well it can be restored. I've purchased pre-owned cars for my sons whose scratches and other cosmetic flaws were removed by the dealer's detail person.
I bought this car new in October 94 and have put about 112000 miles on it. I've experienced relatively few problems in the past 10 years.
A couple of months back I began to notice a problem with starting. Very ocasionally, when you turned the key, you would get only a clicking sound. At first, this was very subtle, and I wasn't sure whether I had simply not turned the key far enough, particularly since it always started up the next turn of the key. When eventually there occurred two clicks in a row, I knew it was something other than just my imagination.
Anyway, the problem occurred only once in a while - days would go by when it didn't manifest itself. Given the age of the car, I didn't worry too much about it, since it always ultimately started.
On June 9, a very hot and humid day where I live, the problem flared up more dramatically. The problem recurred 3 or 4 times that day, and on a couple of those occasions the car started only on the sixth turn of the key ... the first five turns just producing the 'clicking' sound.
I looked under the hood in the area of where the Honda Service manual says the starter is located and didn't see anything obviously amiss there (not that I would be likely to recognize any internal problem by glancing at it anyway). I did notice though that the end of the radiator hose where it goes into the water pump(?) seemed to have a crusty exudate on it, as though there may have been, at one tme or another, some minimal leakage from it. This crusty area seemed to be roughly above the area where I think the starter is located.
For the next nine days, some of which were hot and others cooler, the car started first time every time. Yesterday, which was a rather cool day here, with temperatures in the low 60s, the problem recurred. One time the car started only on the 4th try. Looking under the hood, I noticed that the crusty buildup around the end of the radiator hose seemed to be a bit greater than when I had looked at it 10 days prior - I can't be losing any great amount of radiator fluid though as of yet, since the car does not seem to overheat.
My question is this: can subtle leakage from this radiator hose that somehow finds its way into the starting system be causing the starting problem, or are these two conditions likely to be unrelated?
I'm going to have the radator hose replaced, but I'm wondering if initially I should even mention the starting problem, in the hopes that patching up the leak will take care of the starting troubles (of course, the starting problem could recur while it's at the repair facility). What I want to avoid is getting involved in some costly and perhaps unnecessary repairs/replacements to the starter system if the problem is really just attributable to some leaking radiator fluid.
If your car has been serviced a number of times, as you stated, and Honda cannot fix this very serious problem, then you should not be fighting with Honda or the dealership. You should invoke the lemon law process and I'm not sure you need to hire an attorney to do so. I believe there is reference to this process in the documentation you received from the dealership. Fortunately, I have never had to file a claim under the lemon law, but I know of several who have and because their issues were well documented, they won. We have had our Accord for less than two months and find it a great car and have not had any issues with it. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Get a "lemon law attorney" in your state on this case immediately. Start "legal action" against the selling dealer. This is a safety issue, and they are responsible for correcting this problem. You should not be driving this vehicle! The selling dealer should be providing you with a "loner" until this problem can be resolved to your satisfaction! This is a safety issue! If you continue to operated this vehicle, knowing that it has a defective brake system, and you are involved in an accident, you could be held responsible for the accident! I cannot believe that the Honda Corporation with all their engineers cannot find a problem with this one vehicle! Put legal pressure on the selling dealer! Get advice from your attorney! A vehicle without brakes is as deadly as a gun in the hands of a child! Don't take chances. Keep us informed as to your progress!---Lots of luck!
The leaking hose is possibly creating a short that prevents the starter from receiving current. I'd fix the leak first and observe. After the fix, there might still be intermittent operation due to rust or oxidation in the starter's parts (like the solenoid) but maybe it won't be the case. If the latter, you'll save a good $250 on unnecessary repair.
Opinion comes from owning older cars in the past, with mechanics changing - and charging for - both good and bad parts due to inaccurate diagnosis.
In your case, the most expensive scenario is a shop recommending a new hose, a new starter, and a new battery (all related in varying degrees to starting problems). Ouch.
I'd agree with gregoryc1 about checking with an attorney regarding lemon laws if you decide to go this route. The local newspapers recently ran a story in which a woman tried to go the lemon law route with a Mazda Tribute that had transmission problems that Mazda couldn't correct. Although she had a strong case and met all of the criteria, a minor oversight in the wording of her request to Mazda gave them a loophole with which to refuse her claim, and the courts backed Mazda on this... absolutely incredible, when you're talking about a set of laws designed to protect consumers. But then, nobody ever accused the US court system of having lots of common sense.
I'm sure that it's true that you don't need a lawyer to pursue the lemon law, but based on the issue noted above, deciding to do so without the advice of a lawyer could end up being a false economy. I'm not a great advocate of lawyers, but sometimes you have no choice but to consult one to protect yourself.
Here's hoping that this is resolved to your satisfaction.
You haven't told us anything about what your brakes are doing and what the dealership has done to attempt to duplicate your as of yet unexplained problem.
a complaint about an Accord on an Accord board is ALWAYS suspicious. i have no choice but to believe "none" COULD be speaking the truth. Honda can't design brake PADS correctly, how can people have faith in an entire brake system?
i do agree though, if he/she doesn't come back, it was a Toyota Camry salesman
We believe you when you say your brakes are having problems. However, when someone comes in here who has never posted before and says "I was almost killed because of faulty brakes" without giving more details it is VERY suspicious.
I would run it into a pole. Heck they won't fix em and at least Hondas have been shown to be crash worthy. Get GAP insurance and go buy somehting else or another Accord.
Besides...If someone has had brake FAILURE once. What stopped them after the brakes failed? You'd think you can have that happen only one time.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe a dealer would not let you take delivery of a car with malfunctioning safety systems. I know when I bought my new car I was told that I had to wait until they ran an inspection checklist before I took delivery due to liability issues.
Thank you AtlantaBenny & IsellHondas for your replies and advice. I went ahead yesterday and had the radiator hose changed. So far, after a few starts, I've had no problem. Of course, this doesn't mean much, since even previously it could go for days with no sign of trouble. I guess I'll only know for sure if this was or wasn't the solution if the problem recurs in the near future.
Should that happen, I will take it in to the dealer and, I guess, follow through on whatever they recommend. Perhaps it's a bit of wishful thinking that I could resolve this situation simply by replacing the radiator hose, but I was too curious not to at least attempt that as the first step and see what happens.
Again, thanks for your advice. I will update if anything significant occurs (or doesn't occur).
Check the condition of your other hoses as well. Since they were all installed at the same time, they tend to fail the same way. After that many years, they get hard and brittle and they can fail when you least expect them to.
My 2003 Accord EX-V6 has a water leak in the trunk. Gast! The dealership has replaced the trunk seal and after a heavy rain - there is still a leak!! I'm hoping I can get further clues as to the solution, so that I can inform the dealership. I don't like being without my car...:(
Yes - I have eliminated that possibility, because I actually witnessed water dripping thru the holes of the frame - inside, on the top, south of the speakers as you look inside the trunk and underneath. I'm thinking that a rear window seal? Or perhaps something else around the trunk seal, or open seam on the car frame itself. Very strange - I did not notice leakage last year - mainly due to the drier summer for 2003 vs this year.
My mother-in-law had the problem mentioned in message #3682 ( original is #3619 ) twice. It so happened that both times when it was raining, the passengers who were sitting behind the front passenger ended up getting their pants rather wet - so the water somehow comes from underneath. Since the message #3682 was posted in Nov. 2002 and I haven't come across with a similar one somewhere else, I was wondering what was the "real" culprit and how it can be solved. If anybody had a similar problem/experience and had it fixed, will you please reply to my posting?
I think you might be on track, I would have the rear window checked. My friends Prelude started to leak at the wind shield and the water dripped from behind the dash.
My 04 Accord EX V6 seems to have a very sensitive brake. As a result, my car stops too jerky even when I step on the brake gently. Did anyone notice the same problem?
I've already had my '04 Coupe 6-speed into the dealer twice. My biggest mechanical issue was that it would pop out of first gear while driving! After once being told this is 'normal', sending a long angry e-mail to them, they found out from Honda that it IS a problem. They had to replace my first gear shaft something-or-other.
Now I'm bringing it in for various noises. Hopefully with the help of info from these boards, some will be solved. They include:
Vibration in front driver's door "metel" trim. They've already pulled the door apart twice to put in foam tape. I keep telling them all they need to do is detach and reattach the little piece of plastic trim and it would be fixed.
Tapping noise from top of driver's window. Hopefully this can be solved by doing something with the top trim as noted on the boards.
Cracking/popping noise from dash. Usually in the glove box/right area, but sometimes from left. Hopefully adjusting the a-piller clips and adding some foam or padding will solve this.
Spring noise from shifter. This just started, I have no clue what it is, but usually at slow speeds. Sounds like a spring recoiling.
Driver's seat shifts forward then back when braking. 2 people at the dealer said this was normal, though at least one on this board had it 'fixed'. The passenger side doesn't do it. If it's truely 'normal', they can let me drive another coupe on the lot and prove it!
Other than that, great car. Have to admit I'm highly disappointed in the build quality. I've had more of the cosmetic/noise problems w/ this car than any other. All my other cars were much older. So much for buying a new car and not having to worry about it!
Comments
Besides wear & tear, the only things I replace (according to maint. schedule) after that were the following: the timing belts, plugs, oil, air filter and PCV valve. The fuel filter, dist. cap & rotor have 134k miles on them since I had them replaced at 65k major service mark by the dealer. I have the parts, but couldn't find the time to replace them yet. Amazingly, the car still gets 28 MPG on highway as indicated on the invoice sticker.
I agree, for it to be a good deal, it would have to be at a near giveaway price. At 180k miles, the following repairs are expected if they have not been done recently: a second timing belt job, alternator, CV shafts, ball joints, a brake job, and the list goes
on....
The transmission if it lasts this long, it would continue to last.
Adding those expected repair costs, I would rather take the money and buy a new Civic.
My 2 cents.
Suppose the buyer plans to use it as a second or third car. Maybe it'll get driven 5-7000 miles a year. If this is the case, and IF it passes a strict inspection, AND, the price is reflective of those miles,it could be a GREAT deal.
It could easily go another 50-100,000 miles with little trouble. It could last someone for years.
Now, if the buyer intends to beat it to death on the road and drive it 15-20,000 miles a year it would probably be wise to look for something else.
Any help would be appreciated.
What do I do? I have been told that the mark is so deep that it will need to be re painted instead of buffed out. Has this happened to anyone else? About how much should/did it cost? Once it was painted could you see a difference in the factory paint and the repair?
Please help! This is my first car and I am devastated...
jeffrey: I recently had an unrepairable flat in my 04 Accord (had 15k on it at the time). Cost for replacement was $145 through discounttire.com. I also debated just buying a set of cheaper tires instead of replacing only one but decided that the Michelin's were still a better tire with a higher mileage rating. We ended up paying $170 for the replacement tire but received lifetime rotate and balance as well as road hazard coverage on all 4 tires. Since your Michelins do have some life left in them you may want to consider putting the 3 remaining tires on ebay. Even if you only get $100 for 3 of them that's $100 off your new set of tires.
Also, when we replaced my Michelin the tire shop gave me a prorated credit due to an agreement they have with Michelin. You may want to bring this up to your tire shop.
You may need to remove the headlight cover so you have room to work with these screws.
keep in mind that the potenzas are unidirectional tires and rotation is different.
BTW noticed that when looking down on the sunroof it seems a bit sunken instead of meeting flush with the metal roof. Mainly a bit in the middle...wonder if this is a problem?
I'm bummed since my car only has about 60k miles on it.
Yes, a new car **should** be pefect when it's delivered. In the real world, however I can probably find, if I look hard enough, small scratches on any new car.
Drive that new car two weeks and it'll have more of these. From your description, they sound like they aren't worth messing with.
If it were my own car, I wouldn't worry about it unless they can be easily seen.
Furthermore, that car, and 3 other Accords we purchased from a Southeast volume dealer, did not have scratches when delivered.
While true that "eventually it'll have scratches anyway," I'm not sure how folks paying $20k will take to this advice. If there are flaws, a reputable dealer will correct them.
That said, I'd ask the dealer's detailman on retainer how well it can be restored. I've purchased pre-owned cars for my sons whose scratches and other cosmetic flaws were removed by the dealer's detail person.
A couple of months back I began to notice a problem with starting. Very ocasionally, when you turned the key, you would get only a clicking sound. At first, this was very subtle, and I wasn't sure whether I had simply not turned the key far enough, particularly since it always started up the next turn of the key. When eventually there occurred two clicks in a row, I knew it was something other than just my imagination.
Anyway, the problem occurred only once in a while
- days would go by when it didn't manifest itself.
Given the age of the car, I didn't worry too much about it, since it always ultimately started.
On June 9, a very hot and humid day where I live, the problem flared up more dramatically. The problem recurred 3 or 4 times that day, and on a couple of those occasions the car started only on the sixth turn of the key ... the first five turns just producing the 'clicking' sound.
I looked under the hood in the area of where the Honda Service manual says the starter is located and didn't see anything obviously amiss there (not that I would be likely to recognize any internal problem by glancing at it anyway). I did notice though that the end of the radiator hose where it goes into the water pump(?) seemed to have a crusty exudate on it, as though there may have been, at one tme or another, some minimal leakage from it. This crusty area seemed to be roughly above the area where I think the starter is located.
For the next nine days, some of which were hot and others cooler, the car started first time every time. Yesterday, which was a rather cool day here, with temperatures in the low 60s, the problem recurred. One time the car started only on the 4th try. Looking under the hood, I noticed that the crusty buildup around the end of the radiator hose seemed to be a bit greater than when I had looked at it 10 days prior - I can't be losing any great amount of radiator fluid though as of yet, since the car does not seem to overheat.
My question is this: can subtle leakage from this
radiator hose that somehow finds its way into the starting system be causing the starting problem, or are these two conditions likely to be unrelated?
I'm going to have the radator hose replaced, but I'm wondering if initially I should even mention the starting problem, in the hopes that patching up the leak will take care of the starting troubles (of course, the starting problem could recur while it's at the repair facility). What I want to avoid is getting involved in some costly and perhaps unnecessary repairs/replacements to the starter system if the problem is really just attributable to some leaking radiator fluid.
Any advice will be much appreciated.
We have had our Accord for less than two months and find it a great car and have not had any issues with it. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Dan
2004 EX-L, Nav ( actually my wife's car )
Opinion comes from owning older cars in the past, with mechanics changing - and charging for - both good and bad parts due to inaccurate diagnosis.
In your case, the most expensive scenario is a shop recommending a new hose, a new starter, and a new battery (all related in varying degrees to starting problems). Ouch.
Hope this helps.
I knind doubt if the radiator hose leakage is causing this but I guess it's possible coolant is getting into the starter...doubtful.
In any case, your car is talking to you...it's waving yellow flags at you t have someone who knows what they are doing take a look at it.
Sooner or later, it simply won't start if you continue to ignore this.
I'm sure that it's true that you don't need a lawyer to pursue the lemon law, but based on the issue noted above, deciding to do so without the advice of a lawyer could end up being a false economy. I'm not a great advocate of lawyers, but sometimes you have no choice but to consult one to protect yourself.
Here's hoping that this is resolved to your satisfaction.
I don't understand. "multiple brake failures"
Is this something the dealer can't find or recreate? A problem with a brake system should be very easy to locate and repair.
Something doesn't make sense here....?
i do agree though, if he/she doesn't come back, it was a Toyota Camry salesman
Besides...If someone has had brake FAILURE once. What stopped them after the brakes failed? You'd think you can have that happen only one time.
Should that happen, I will take it in to the dealer and, I guess, follow through on whatever they recommend. Perhaps it's a bit of wishful thinking that I could resolve this situation simply by replacing the radiator hose, but I was too curious not to at least attempt that as the first step and see what happens.
Again, thanks for your advice. I will update if anything significant occurs (or doesn't occur).
Best regards,
JH
Good luck!
My mother-in-law had the problem mentioned in message #3682 ( original is #3619 ) twice. It so happened that both times when it was raining, the passengers who were sitting behind the front passenger ended up getting their pants rather wet - so the water somehow comes from underneath. Since the message #3682 was posted in Nov. 2002 and I haven't come across with a similar one somewhere else, I was wondering what was the "real" culprit and how it can be solved. If anybody had a similar problem/experience and had it fixed, will you please reply to my posting?
Now I'm bringing it in for various noises. Hopefully with the help of info from these boards, some will be solved. They include:
Vibration in front driver's door "metel" trim. They've already pulled the door apart twice to put in foam tape. I keep telling them all they need to do is detach and reattach the little piece of plastic trim and it would be fixed.
Tapping noise from top of driver's window. Hopefully this can be solved by doing something with the top trim as noted on the boards.
Cracking/popping noise from dash. Usually in the glove box/right area, but sometimes from left. Hopefully adjusting the a-piller clips and adding some foam or padding will solve this.
Spring noise from shifter. This just started, I have no clue what it is, but usually at slow speeds. Sounds like a spring recoiling.
Driver's seat shifts forward then back when braking. 2 people at the dealer said this was normal, though at least one on this board had it 'fixed'. The passenger side doesn't do it. If it's truely 'normal', they can let me drive another coupe on the lot and prove it!
Other than that, great car. Have to admit I'm highly disappointed in the build quality. I've had more of the cosmetic/noise problems w/ this car than any other. All my other cars were much older. So much for buying a new car and not having to worry about it!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,