In regards to Bars, all of their products have worked great for me, especially for the water leakage. This is the only product that I know actually works. Just be sure to shake it up well. Good Luck!
There is a TSB on this very problem and I took my 03' EX V6 into the dealer two days ago for the problem and they replaced the pads and machined the rotors at no charge. Try www.alldata.com for the TSB number. Honda has requested that they do not update any other TSB's, but the one pertaining to your car is on there. Also. Temple of VTEC is a good source of info as well.
My '98 2.3L VTEC Accord occationally will not start when it has been sitting in the heat. My dealer just told me to knock around the base of the steering column to shake it into action and to see if that is indeed the problem. My question is this. Is this a common problem on '98 Accords and since I would like to replace it myself, where is the Main Fuel Relay located? Thanks, Greg
the 03 Accord and some 04s are now included in the recall along with some 04 TLs. How long is this going to go on?? I thought my 03 would be okay. Makes me wonder about the 05 Odyssey as well. Check hondanews.com under corporate news for info.
I have a 1992 Honda Accord with 154,000 miles on it. It still has original radiator and hoses.
Bars Leak goes back to my childhood days (I'm 60), my dad used it all the time on his cars and it works great, but it is only a stop gap.
I guess you can tell by my handle that I'm a Mustang guy. I visit a Mustang chat site that offers radiators for all vehicles at a reduced prices by just mentioning "MustangSteve" when you call or e-mail the radiator supply house. I'll bet you you can get a replacment radiator through this guy for a lot less than $400, here's the link, just follow the instructions if you're interested:
I recently noticed that when I shift gears and either don't have the clutch or gas pressed in, my car makes a sound like it's about to clunk out. It seems like the muffler is rattling or something, anyone experience this?
Good question... I don't know where it was made, other than the fact that it was in the US. Are there particular problems w/ certain factories? Where would I find that info on the car?
Thus far the only thing they've fixed is the vibration in the door. They say the seat shift is normal, even though other people who have this car don't have that happen. They either couldn't hear all of the headliner noises or they assume it's also 'normal.' I honestly think the dealer I'm going to is either lazy or likes to mislead/lie to appease me, rather than actually looking at possible solutions. Also, in the process of fixing the vibration in the door, they did something that makes the auto up/down driver's window not work. Once they resolve that, I'm going to take it to another dealer to sort out the other various issues from my previous post.
I own an '03 EX V6 and have been complaining about the car's shifting seat problem for the past year. At various times the dealer has told me "they all do that",or "Honda is aware and they're working the issue", or "there is no fix", or the latest, "that's within the acceptable range of movement." At one point, I told the dealer Honda must have a fix after selling this generation for two tears now and the dealer told me, "No,the 04s still have the same problem." I've been told using the shims or installing new seats or frames doesn't guarantee a fix. It is damn frustrating and Honda is stone walling.
I saw various posts about cabin noise issues. Could you guys tell me what success you have had in getting rid of the infamous A-pillar tapping/creaking, and the vibrating faux-gunmetal door trim pieces? It just drives me crazy.
I took it to the dealer, and they fixed my sunroof rattle instead of other problems I had(lol...). Just goes to show you how many build quality issues this model has.
I have had noises in the headliner, A, B and C-pillars.
Headliner was fixed with a new liner - problem over.
My A-pillar noise transcends all others. It's special but Honda has not given up yet.
B-pillar (ball bearing in a vibrating can - you know what I mean if you've heard it) - fixed. Witnessed just once in last 2 months.
C-pillar made noises over every bump in heat of day - fixed but returning.
The sources of vibration that cause these noises are not determined and fixed. Instead velour tape is applied to suspect areas. Time, temp and vibration may cause these to come back for brief periods.
It has been a long road. Dealer was OK but could not fix A-pillar noise. AH customer rep was a bad experience. Mediation and district representatives have been class acts and a pleasure to work with.
Kie, If you are not a troll, you may want to explain your problem again. When I read your post it sounds like your shifting gears on a manual tranny without depressing the clutch pedal. If you are, You definitely will hear lots of noise until you destroy it.
does anyone have a rattle in what seems to be the drivers door or the pillar between the drivers side front and rear door? i have a slight rattle - if i hit the door it goes away sometimes. can't pinpoint it though.
I seem to have a "rattle" coming from the drivers door panel. I have not put much concern into it due to the fact that I added a sound system and figured the bass had caused it. It kinda sounds like there is a loose screw vibrating around in there... is this what your experiencing? If not then my problem is probably my own doing!
On a less serious note, I too have "that grinding noise" when shifting without the clutch down... can't figure it but i'm told it will stop soon enough
Used to do that with our Studebaker when I was a kid. It would go from 1st to 2nd. You just let up on the gas. Same for 2nd to 3rd. It had overdrive which let the trans freewheel; it wasn't driven by the rear wheels when coasting. The trans would drop down to engine speed I guess.
After having the check engine light pop on on my '98 4-cyl, I took it to my trustworthy mechanic, who said that my catalytic converter was bad. I had the work done ($600) and when I left the shop the new part was making a ticking/rattling noise. The mechanic said it would go away in a few days since I was "breaking it in", but it's been over a week and a half and it's still ticking. Is this normal?
The V6 Accord has had a transmission issue in the past. We own a 2003 4 cylinder Accord, and a 2004 4 cylinder Civic, both with an automatic transmission. Both vehicles were purchased with a 7 year 100,000 mile, bumper to bumper Honda extended, zero deductable warranty. The extnded warranty on the Accord cost $875.00 and on the Civic $975.00. As you know from my past postings, we maintain our vehicles VERY well! The Accord has just had an oil and filter change at 28,000 + miles. So far, we DO NOT HAVE any symptoms, of a "transmission issue" on these vehicle. At 30,000 miles the Accord will go to the dealer for the 30,000 mile service, (the service appointment has been made for October 4,2004). In addition to the regular 30,000 mile vehilce service, we will have the automatic transmission fluid drained and refilled with Honda fluid. I am doing this because I DO NOT want an issue with this transmission, the Honda Corp. and the extended warranty over a lack of preventive maintenance of this unit. I would strongly suggest that as long as the vehicle is still under warranty, that you purchase an extended warranty to cover future expenses. The price of an extended warranty against the price of a transmission is "simple logic:! One transmission "out of warranty" could cost you $3,000.00 to $6,000.00 dollars! In addition the extended warranty covers other components on the vehicle. If our transmissions fails, it is Honda's problem. The dealer gets the Accord, and we get a loaner vehicle. Life becomes "stupid / simple"! Since we service our vehicles at the dealer, all of our service records are in one place! As owners we are out of the repair process. The total problem is Honda's!
...that by PURCHASHING/PAYING Honda for the warranty, you are simply rewarding them for making inferior products. i understand your logic, a warranty costs less than a transmission, but i can't wrap my head around the "principal" aspect of it. a car shouldn't need work done at 40k miles. especially a Honda. whats the point of buying a Honda if you have to pay for an extra warranty on it?
You are also correct! But there is a reality to this issue. If Honda DOES NOT extend a warranty on this transmission, a lot of Honda owners will be paying "big bucks" to repair their vehicles. And, this process might not be just a "one time deal"!. It could be an on-going problem throughout the life of these vehicles. If you have an extended warranty it coveres the vehicle bumper to bumper. A starter, alternator or an AC compressor repair could easily pay for the 7 year warranty, and after the repair has been completed, you still are covered for additional repairs. You are then riding on their money! When we purchased the 2003 Accord, we turned in a 2000 Accord that was on a lease. While the interior of the 2003 Accord is a lot more plush, mechanically, I think the 2000 Accord was a better vehicle. We will not own this vehicle past the 7 year 100,000 mile warranty. It would be too expensive to maintain. I would rather trade it, and have a vehicle under warranty. Just my opinion... Greg
so, let me ask you this: since you don't mind buying an extended warranty on your vehicles, why did you buy a Honda?
why not a VW Passat?
i think most people buy Honda/Toyota because they want a car that runs all the time. an extended warranty is great, and can save money if repairs are required, but again, the whole point of Honda is to NOT have to take the car in for repairs. it is a hassle. but, taking supposed reliability out of the equation, i feel cheated with the Accord. the compromise i made when i bought it now seems not worth it. coulda had a V8 or W8 in this case..;)
i guess my bottom line point is, if Honda isn't going to be more reliable than a VW, i would simply buy a VW, and get the extra warranty, than pay a premium for a Honda, and have to buy a warranty as well.
and yes, the 2003 Accord interior is quite nice indeed!
It just so happens that I had a 4 cylinder automatic 2000 Accord SE and traded it in for a 2003 Accord LX 4 cylinder coupe with manual transmission. Although I never had any transmission problems whatsoever with the 2000, I did receive notification from Honda extending the warranty on the automatic tranny to 100K. The only reason I traded was because I wanted a coupe and a manual transmission.
I have never had any problems of any kind with either vehicle. There is no way I would ever even consider an extended warranty for a Honda (I also have a 2002 CRV-EX) that I buy new and maintain myself. IMHO, for every person that gets their money's worth from the extended warranty there are 20 others that never needed it and some, not all, of the ones that do need the warranty may not have maintained their vehicle as carefully as I do.
It is really a matter of what enables each owner to sleep well every night. Personally I have the utmost confidence that I will never need warranty work the first 100K but I can certainly understand someone else needing the warranty to feel secure.
We looked at the VW and we didn't like the vehicles. In addition, we didn't like the dealer! We will probably trade this vehicle at about 95,000 miles. At the rate that we are accumulating mileage on the clock, this will occur when the vehicle is about five years old. At that point in time we will probably look at Honda, Chevrolet, Pontiac and Toyota. Maybe there will be new vehicles on the market that burn new fuels???????????????? Think of the possibilities. We would like to stay with a four cylinder vehicle, but we would consider a six cylinder vehicle with a high mileage per gallon rating. I guess time will tell! -----
The ticking sounds should end soon. I don't think you will have problems and it does tend to take awhile. An example; when I first bought an '86 Dodge Charger Turbo, which had a stainless steel exhaust, the ticking lasted long enough that I missed it after it stopped.
I just took my 1993 Accord 10th Anniversary edition to a dealer because the rear brake calipers had seized. They replaced the calipers and pads and resurfaced the rotors. When I got home I jacked up the car and spun the rear wheels. They turned pretty well but I could still hear a periodic hissing sound when the brake pads hit certain spots, so I assume the rotors are still slightly warped. Does this mean that the mechanic did not do the job right?
In your posts #7817 and #7819 you indicated that you purchased a seven year extended warranty. That's all well and good. I personally have never considered such a product for a litany of reasons.
However, I'm puzzled by your post #7822 indication that you only intend to keep your Accord until it "is about five years old". That means you will have paid for a seven year extended warranty when you are only keeping the car for about five years. In reality, a seven year extended warranty is only a four year extension to the manufacturer's basic three year OEM warranty.
That means that you will be covered by your extended warranty for only two years if you trade in five years. Seems like a waste of money to me unless the product is not as reliable as the brand has always been.
But if someone drives lots of miles (like me) the would be covered an additional 62,000 miles over factory warranty. Alot can happen to even the most reliable cars in 62,000 miles.
1. It isn't blinking and it isn't on anymore. Regardless, I'm taking it in to have it checked out.
2. It's definately in the pillar on the drivers side. It only really occurs when it is cold and it seems to be a common problem that I've read about in here within several posts.
3. Yes, I noticed that when the system is set to recirculate the problem stops. I never really thought about it but it is only logical that if the system is open to ambient external conditions that some air will naturally flow.
Does that extended warranty pass to the next owner? IF it does, then it ups the value of greg's used car in the buyer's eyes, so he should get his money back from the buyer or the dealer if he trades his car.
I change oil pretty much the same as greg. I am analytical as to the type of driving and temperatures during since the last change and adjust changes intervals from 2500 to 3800 or so..
But whoever's getting the tradeins is getting only well-cared for motor. It should last hundreds of thousands of miles -- short of any design failure where oil changes won't help -- can you say Toyota oil hot spots?
You missed the point! We purchased a 7 year 100,000 mile, bumper to bumper, 0 deductable, extended warranty when we purchased the new 2003 Accord. Now,we are putting a large amount of mileage on the Accord in a VERY short period of time. At this rate, we will probably have 100,000 miles in five years. The vehicle will then be "out of warranty"! We do not want to own a vehicle "out of warranty", because the cost of repairs is just too great!
A piece of glass is broken on the rear tail light of my 1995 Honda Accord LX 4 DR AT. I think I will have to replace the Tail Light Assembly. If I buy it on the Net, would I be able to replace it myself. I have replaced tail light bulbs - nothing more than that. If instructions are available, please post them or point out the URL for this.
i own a '91 accord lx. and within the past month, the motorized shoulder seatbelt strap on the driver's side has gone out on me. it started by sometimes stopping in the middle of going back when i closed my door. but then it would eventually go to its intended position after a few seconds or so. it progressively got worse. then, as time went on, the seatbelt light started flashing and beeping even though everything was strapped in and in the position it should be in. it didn't do this 100% of the time, and it would go away and come back at certain times. but now, it is to the point that it doesn't even go back at all when i close the door, and the beeping and flashing is non-stop. i tried doing as the manuel stated (checking the fuse, manually cranking the seatbelt back, and then putting the fuse back). but the next time i open the door, the strap goes back to the front position and never returns to the back position after the door is closed. i have eliminated a few possiblities (as listed below), but i still do not know the exact cause of this malfunction.
-->it is not the fuse. the fuses (both for driver side and passenger side passive seatbelts) are both good. i even tried replacing it just in case. -->it isn't the door pin. the beeping and flashing dash light stop when the door's open. -->it is getting power. when i manually reset the position, it still automatically goes forward.
so yesterday, i just took out the fuse so that it doesn't move at all, and then reset it into the back (strapped in) position, just so that i will not get pulled over for supposedly not wearing a seatbelt. but the flashing dash light and the beeping alert are still constant, even with that fuse out. any suggestions on how to get the motor properly working again? or is there a better way to stop the beeping besides pulling its plug from behind the dash?
Yeah I got it. I just got an 04 LX sedan. I have a little squeak, rattle that seems to come from the driver door panel by the door lock. If I put my arm on the top of the panel or push lightly on the top it stops. Can Honda fix this or am I stuck??? Also why does Honda use the old fashioned pull thing for a lock. It is in the exact position where my arm needs to go.??? Easy
I just leased an 04 LX in June. We took atrip to NY and we got to the coast of NJ, Brick to be exact in about 3/4 of a tank. Thats about 360 miles from Pittsburgh. ALso we are getting decent mileage on the city but I dont have a MPG yet
I have an 04 LX sedan and have the same tranny noise. It sounds like a faily loud click or maybe a clank when shifting from Park. Can anyone help us on this noise???
It may help to contact Honda. I own a '90 Mazda Protege. Some years ago Mazdas were having a problem with the motorized seatbelt and were forced to extend the seatbelt warrenty because of safety issues. The warrenty was extended, I think, to specify the life of the vehicle. I did receive a document expressing the warrenty extension. I think this might be why so many carmakers got away from the motorized belts.
I know this is off-topic for this forum, but I want to help you if you didn't respond to Mazda's letter about the motorized seat belt and it's sticking:
My'04 Accord replaced a superb 1991 Mazda Protegé DX that had that dumb, automatic seatbelt (so happy not to have that now!) Mazda sent a letter to me saying that the motorized belt could stick and guaranteed it for 12 years from date of purchase--the letter was sent about 5 years ago, so I had about 4 years to respond. The letter said to take the car to a Mazda dealer to have contact points cleaned.
My car's seat belt was sticking at times; however, I squirted some WD-40 into the door latch and that fixed the problem for a number of months. The contacts are in the door latching mechanism, not in the track that runs over the front door, so don't spray anything there.....Richard
There is a chance that the inner rail seal has come apart and jammed inside the rear interering with the rear position switch. Check and see if the seal is all there on both sides of the rail. Next is the control unit itself goes bad either internally or with rusted connections. It is located under the passenger side seat and can be inspected for corrosion at the connectors or unit. If all else fails you can keep the unit disconnected...
i haven't had Honda look at the rattle. it won't do it when the car is in the shop of course. eventually perhaps a TSB will be out for it....hopefully.
my transmission makes no noise. when you press the brake pedal, you will ALWAYS hear a "click" noise. that is the transmission lock out feature disengaging. but it isn't actually "gear noise". and there is a minscule delay when shifting from park to R or D. my VW had a 2 second delay. it is to protect the tranny from "catching" the new gear selection while you are still moving in another direction. a lot of people reverse, then throw it in D while still moving backwards. the new tranny's kind of compensate for that with the delay.
Rbruehl had two transmissions replaced on his accord a few years back. He sold the car and bought a toyota. I guess this post may be referring to his dislike for honda and its listed now to remind us that the accord has another trnsmission problem.
Comments
Good Luck!
Will they update this in July 04 as well or are only specific vehicles affected (i.e. built at a specif location and not another)?
If you are able to see your Accord actually displaying a recall, please advise...thanks
Thanks, Greg
Bars Leak goes back to my childhood days (I'm 60), my dad used it all the time on his cars and it works great, but it is only a stop gap.
I guess you can tell by my handle that I'm a Mustang guy. I visit a Mustang chat site that offers radiators for all vehicles at a reduced prices by just mentioning "MustangSteve" when you call or e-mail the radiator supply house. I'll bet you you can get a replacment radiator through this guy for a lot less than $400, here's the link, just follow the instructions if you're interested:
http://www.mustangsteve.com/radiators.html
My favorite fuel adative is made by BG, it's a fuel injector cleaner and is the best that I've seen. You can but it at NAPA.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Thus far the only thing they've fixed is the vibration in the door. They say the seat shift is normal, even though other people who have this car don't have that happen. They either couldn't hear all of the headliner noises or they assume it's also 'normal.' I honestly think the dealer I'm going to is either lazy or likes to mislead/lie to appease me, rather than actually looking at possible solutions. Also, in the process of fixing the vibration in the door, they did something that makes the auto up/down driver's window not work. Once they resolve that, I'm going to take it to another dealer to sort out the other various issues from my previous post.
I took it to the dealer, and they fixed my sunroof rattle instead of other problems I had(lol...). Just goes to show you how many build quality issues this model has.
When you shift gears, you are supposted to depress the clutch!
Headliner was fixed with a new liner - problem over.
My A-pillar noise transcends all others. It's special but Honda has not given up yet.
B-pillar (ball bearing in a vibrating can - you know what I mean if you've heard it) - fixed. Witnessed just once in last 2 months.
C-pillar made noises over every bump in heat of day - fixed but returning.
The sources of vibration that cause these noises are not determined and fixed. Instead velour tape is applied to suspect areas. Time, temp and vibration may cause these to come back for brief periods.
It has been a long road. Dealer was OK but could not fix A-pillar noise. AH customer rep was a bad experience. Mediation and district representatives have been class acts and a pleasure to work with.
It's a wonderful car. Mine just has a problem.
If you are not a troll, you may want to explain your problem again. When I read your post it sounds like your shifting gears on a manual tranny without depressing the clutch pedal. If you are, You definitely will hear lots of noise until you destroy it.
anyone?
On a less serious note, I too have "that grinding noise" when shifting without the clutch down... can't figure it but i'm told it will stop soon enough
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
why not a VW Passat?
i think most people buy Honda/Toyota because they want a car that runs all the time. an extended warranty is great, and can save money if repairs are required, but again, the whole point of Honda is to NOT have to take the car in for repairs. it is a hassle. but, taking supposed reliability out of the equation, i feel cheated with the Accord. the compromise i made when i bought it now seems not worth it. coulda had a V8
i guess my bottom line point is, if Honda isn't going to be more reliable than a VW, i would simply buy a VW, and get the extra warranty, than pay a premium for a Honda, and have to buy a warranty as well.
and yes, the 2003 Accord interior is quite nice indeed!
I have never had any problems of any kind with either vehicle. There is no way I would ever even consider an extended warranty for a Honda (I also have a 2002 CRV-EX) that I buy new and maintain myself. IMHO, for every person that gets their money's worth from the extended warranty there are 20 others that never needed it and some, not all, of the ones that do need the warranty may not have maintained their vehicle as carefully as I do.
It is really a matter of what enables each owner to sleep well every night. Personally I have the utmost confidence that I will never need warranty work the first 100K but I can certainly understand someone else needing the warranty to feel secure.
Dodge Charger Turbo, which had a stainless steel
exhaust, the ticking lasted long enough that I missed it after it stopped.
In your posts #7817 and #7819 you indicated that you purchased a seven year extended warranty. That's all well and good. I personally have never considered such a product for a litany of reasons.
However, I'm puzzled by your post #7822 indication that you only intend to keep your Accord until it "is about five years old". That means you will have paid for a seven year extended warranty when you are only keeping the car for about five years. In reality, a seven year extended warranty is only a four year extension to the manufacturer's basic three year OEM warranty.
That means that you will be covered by your extended warranty for only two years if you trade in five years. Seems like a waste of money to me unless the product is not as reliable as the brand has always been.
1. It isn't blinking and it isn't on anymore. Regardless, I'm taking it in to have it checked out.
2. It's definately in the pillar on the drivers side. It only really occurs when it is cold and it seems to be a common problem that I've read about in here within several posts.
3. Yes, I noticed that when the system is set to recirculate the problem stops. I never really thought about it but it is only logical that if the system is open to ambient external conditions that some air will naturally flow.
I change oil pretty much the same as greg. I am analytical as to the type of driving and temperatures during since the last change and adjust changes intervals from 2500 to 3800 or so..
But whoever's getting the tradeins is getting only well-cared for motor. It should last hundreds of thousands of miles -- short of any design failure where oil changes won't help -- can you say Toyota oil hot spots?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks in advance.
-->it is not the fuse. the fuses (both for driver side and passenger side passive seatbelts) are both good. i even tried replacing it just in case.
-->it isn't the door pin. the beeping and flashing dash light stop when the door's open.
-->it is getting power. when i manually reset the position, it still automatically goes forward.
so yesterday, i just took out the fuse so that it doesn't move at all, and then reset it into the back (strapped in) position, just so that i will not get pulled over for supposedly not wearing a seatbelt. but the flashing dash light and the beeping alert are still constant, even with that fuse out. any suggestions on how to get the motor properly working again? or is there a better way to stop the beeping besides pulling its plug from behind the dash?
Also why does Honda use the old fashioned pull thing for a lock. It is in the exact position where my arm needs to go.???
Easy
Can anyone help us on this noise???
My'04 Accord replaced a superb 1991 Mazda Protegé DX that had that dumb, automatic seatbelt (so happy not to have that now!) Mazda sent a letter to me saying that the motorized belt could stick and guaranteed it for 12 years from date of purchase--the letter was sent about 5 years ago, so I had about 4 years to respond. The letter said to take the car to a Mazda dealer to have contact points cleaned.
My car's seat belt was sticking at times; however, I squirted some WD-40 into the door latch and that fixed the problem for a number of months. The contacts are in the door latching mechanism, not in the track that runs over the front door, so don't spray anything there.....Richard
my transmission makes no noise. when you press the brake pedal, you will ALWAYS hear a "click" noise. that is the transmission lock out feature disengaging. but it isn't actually "gear noise". and there is a minscule delay when shifting from park to R or D. my VW had a 2 second delay. it is to protect the tranny from "catching" the new gear selection while you are still moving in another direction. a lot of people reverse, then throw it in D while still moving backwards. the new tranny's kind of compensate for that with the delay.
that is what i was told anyway by VW.
Honda is about as bad as GM...