The "tip of the iceberg" then Honda must be doing quite a good job of customer service. I kno whenever they had any other problem Edmunds blew up with complaints. I haven't seen it with any of the more recent issues. I mean other than people coming in to point it out or just generally get their [female dog] on.
Just bought a 2004 Accord LX Coupe (Silver/Black) and really love it. However, I noticed a tizz from the right rear speaker when certain bass frequencies occurred. It was driving me crazy. I opted for a home remedy since I find that when dealers start screwing around with stuff, they usually make it worse.
Anyway, I opened the trunk and looked at the speaker from underneath (a cheapo Pioneer made in Mexico). I noticed that there was an opening where the cone was exposed. When I pressed my finger to the cone, the tizz stopped. SO, I got some thick, soft cotton material (cut up an old blanket) and stuffed it in the opening against the cone. The tizz was gone and my ears are happy once again.
I've read several posts on this and other forums about speaker tizz. Hope this home remedy helps.
This is the second time around for this problem. The first time an independent shop told me it was something to do with the transmission shift sensor. We thought it was fixed. Months later, doing the same thing. Engine will not start though it will turn over until the battery runs down. Transmission shift indicator lite D4 remains on and flashes constantly. Problem is intermittent and unpredictable. Looking for a troubleshooting guide for Honda of this year model. Help! Thanks.
As a general proposition, that may be true. However, in this instance, I still get the lower frequencies only without the tizz. IMHO, it's a much better solution than having the dealer screw around with removing the top deck or pulling the head to adjust the gain.
So I have had my 95 accord for a week and I am very happy with it except for the leaking of water onto the floorboards. I think it may be the condensation from the air conditioner, but am not sure. It has been to warm this week to really drive without it. I am planning on taking it on a trip this weekend, but would like to have it fixed. I am going to take it to my mechanic this week, but If there is someone else out there with some more ideas I would sure like to hear them. It may help my mechanic to fix the problem. Thanks
"You can crucify any make or model based on anecdotal evidence" "typical Honda and Toyota on a par"
I couldn't agree more. Initial quality on Toyota is 15 problems out of 100 vehicles. Honda is 16 outa 100. This is over the first 3 years. You should see the other manufactures! Toyota/Honda after 5 years have problems almost half as many times as domestic. All this info is based on JD Power initial quality and Consumer Reports 5 year cost of ownership.
I would put all of that up as qualification for my opinion: I like my Honda.
The fellow who "hates his Honda" I'm sure is having a bad time with his Tranny, but a rant about selling all of the 99's is a little much. Leave this thread for Honda problems and solutions!
On that note: Many thanks for the info on my Black oil post! After much (MUCH) reading I am going to take a different approach to my oil changes. Mobile 1 100% Synthetic every 5,000-7,500 miles
My 2004 Accord EX-L have only 700miles. Recently, the rear view mirror begins to vibrate and make a buzzling noise when I drive the car in a rought highway or over the concrete divider. I tried to use my hand to hold the mirror but that didn't help at all. Anyone have this problem?
sounds familiar to my situation with a '94 2DR. when I went around curves, water would drip from the evaporator pan to the footwell.
mechanic blew compressed air up through the drain tube that exits through the fire wall, and can be seen a tad behind the passenger front tire.
tell-tale sign of blockage, stop car with AC on maximum and look under the vehicle: is water going drip drip drip about once per second or so from the drain tube or not?
if not, it's probably blocked.
the mechanic who worked on my car recently indicated leaves and debris can enter in through the vent at the bottom of the windshield and clog the drain.
after the shot of compressed air - he claimed about a gallon of water exited. since then, the car is dripping water through the hose to the ground again, rather than on my feet.
There is no sunroof on the car. And if it was leaking from the windshield wouldn't it leak from somewhere other then the vents. I haven't been able to pinpoint it to outside water. I think it is condensation from the A/C. I am going to look at it in the morning. Thank you
I just took my 4 month old Canadian Accord to my dealer because of a vibration when braking on the highway. The car, which has done 2,000 miles, has front discs and rear drums.
I assumed the front rotors had warped but, after examination, the dealer advised that the rear drums were badly out of round due to defective drums from a supplier and could not be replaced just yet because Honda Canada has them on back order.
The car was built in Marysville so this may be a problem for some US owners as well.
It happened on my 89 Accord. Every time I had a car wash or it was pouring, there was water leaking around the dashboard & passenger vent and dropping on the floor. I knew it was the windshield seal, but I couldn't pinpoint the exact location. Until last year, the windshield got chipped & I had it replaced. The leaking disappeared.
I got a chance to look at my wet floorboard problem tonight. I found the line were the condensation is supposed to come out and it was not dripping at all. I took my air compressor and sprayed it up the hose and all the sudden I had a big puddle on the ground. I think that will probably fix my problem. Thanks everyone for all your help. joe
is yours a 2003 or 2004? i didn't think Honda made Accords with drum brakes anymore....did they mean the rear rotors maybe? i could understand that as they have a huge problem with rotor quality.
It's a 2004 Canadian 4 cylinder LX Model with front disc and rear drums. The service manual shows that the US & Canadian DX models and the Canadian LX have rear drums. (The US LX has rear disks.)
The dealer advised me that the drums were so out of round that they could not be machined. He said a supplier had supplied defective drums.
Canadian and American Honda Accords are slightly different from each other. Our base model is like the Americans second or third up from the bottom. Canadian Base has power windows, A/C and rear drums (why are they still using these?!).
Funny note worth making... I was in a US dealership to have work done on my Canadian Base model and the fellow ask what level of trim. I told him it was a base and he fell out of his chair... "with ROLL UP windows?!?!" Guess not too many of those sold in the US
It appears to be some one broke into car while it was sitting on delaer's lot. And whoever fixed it had not done good job. You should have bought the silver one. I don't think that they will exchance it for you. Good luck.
The '95 Accord wagon just hit the 200K mark....w no, zero, maintenance problems ! Nothing ! Unfortunately, Honda does not sell the wagon in U.S.---it is sold in Japan-- or make an AWD Accord on the Accord platform. The SRS light has been reset twice, dealer says the controller or body control module needs replacing. Expensive, $700. job. Need the air bags for Maine inspection and safety piece of mind. Bite the bullet and be grateful for Honda engineering and quality, or ???????? Ideas ? A.G. Downeast Maine
There are many providers who as a practice require to inspect the car 1000 miles on/before the factory warranty expires. Rates hover at $700-$800 depending on deductible.
An aftermarket warranty from the manufacturer is ideal, but there should be reputable non-manufacturer providers. Just know enough of the company's track record to be confident that it doesn't impose unreasonable claim requirements or worse, won't pay for legit claims.
Also, it's critical to know the fine print provisions of the coverage, because huge deductibles could be part of the package.
I would call a dealer for quotes or referrals. Aftermarket companies want our extended warranty business.
I have a question for all you out there: my 92 Accord will not start intermittently. At first I thought it was a crack in the spark plug wires and cap wire somewhere so I replaced them. It still continues though. It hasn't quit permently to the point of towing (knock on wood). It turns over strong, but no firing. I haven't pulled the coil wire to check for spark yet- suggestions?
Any help would be much appreciated:) Thanks in advance
Do not purchase an "After Market Extended Warranty". If your vehicle is still covered by the three year 36,000 mile factory warranty, purchase a Honda Warranty from the dealer. REMENBER; ----A Honda extended warranty can be used at any Honda dealer in the United States without a problem. If you do all your preventive maintenance work at your dealer, and you have an issue on a long trip, the dealer providing service can get your service records from the selling dealer and handle your warranty claim in a simple straight forward manner. Keep your life simple!
This may not relate to your situation exactly, but my son's '98 Accord coupe recently had a starting problem that sounds like yours -- cranked fine, just would not start. It was an intermittent problem, but was getting worse. Interestingly, I had it in for 90,000 mile service and mentioned this problem, but they found nothing. So, when I went to pick it up, it wouldn't start.
Turned out electrical was fine -- it just wasn't getting any gas. They installed a new fuel pump main relay, and it's started fine ever since. I guess the old relay was worn out. They said they become susceptible to a hot interior when they get old -- it's located somewhere under the dash. $89.86 for part, labor, and sales tax.
If the car has given you almost 10 years and 200,000 miles without major problems and you still like the car spend the $700 and drive it a while longer.
When driving on the freeway at about 50mph or so. When I am just slightly trying to maintain speed. My Gas paddle vibrates more then it used too. Sometimes I get it to grind slightly. I had this problem on my old car but didn't care about fixing it and was very happy that this car didn't have it at first. This problem was not there when this car was new. This developed over time.
Are there any TSB's for excess vibration and slight grinding in the gas pedal.
that is interesting, as your gas pedal doesn't actually attach to anything (drive by wire). not sure why it would be vibrating. same stretch of road everytime? Hondas are VERY sensitive to road conditions i have always found. some of the road variations find there way to the strangest places sometimes....
My wife's 97 Accord SE (about 77,000 miles) is nearing the end of the Honda Care extended warranty this autumn. Up until the last 9 months, I thought we would actually never use that warranty. However, the following items have been replaced under the warranty:
1) Engine control computer after "check engine" light came on and stayed on last January. 2) Radiator - started leaking after upper radiator hose was replaced. 3) Both front wheel bearings.
The warranty has more than paid for itself at this point.
So, if you were me, what else would you pay attention to before the warranty expires in November? Any other notable weak links?
The car is mostly driven in commuting cycle that's 50 miles a day. The drive is not in heavy traffic. Oil has been changed on average every 4,000 miles using Mobil 1 5w-30. We plan to keep the car until it's dead - easily another five years. I'll be doing the timing belt/water pump/accessory belts in early November.
I have had a problem lately on my 98 Accord. Right after start up, there is a hesitation when I press the accelerator, almost like the car is not getting gas, then it cleans out and runs fine after the initial hestitation. Again, this only happens at start up, and I believe only happens on a cold engine. Could this be a main fuel relay issue?
My post regarding the fuel pump main relay replacement on my son's 98 Accord coupe was just me passing along what they did. I'm not mechanically inclined -- just try to sort out what they're telling me. They did nail this problem, though -- since they did the replacement, the car has started right up, just as always. But it was for that problem only, not a hesitation after startup.
The hesitation you mention is something I thought fuel injection pretty much took care of. The old carburetor system produced some cars with real hesitation problems. I haven't experienced this in years, since I started buying fuel injection engines.
Also, my son's car is a manual transmission, so that may make a difference. His car is right at 90,000 miles and never skips a beat, even just after startup. It's impressive how smoothly and strongly it runs at that mileage.
I'm just rambling, I know. Hope someone else has some insight into your problem. Good luck.
The hesitation in my car seems to be only at first take off on a cold engine. After the initial hesitation at start up, it drives fine. For example, by the time I reach the stop sign at the end of my street, take off from that point is fine, no hesitation. Could it be a spark plug issue? I have 77,000 mi. on it. It's a V6 with platinum plugs so I wasn't planning on changing them until 105k when I have the timing belt replaced. Maybe an EGR carb-up issue? Thought I would get some thoughts from the forum before I go through the hassle of taking it in to the dealer. Thanks.
I have a 2001 Accord EX with 50,000 miles. Recently, both the SRS light and Brake light come on and stay on. The brake light only stays on the first time I drive the car each day. After driving about 5 minutes, it goes off.
I had the local dealer (Crown Honda) check this out. They could not re-create either problem. For the SRS light, they said there was no data in the computer, but since they checked it, that problem has stopped. They claimed that putting a cell phone or other object on the passenger seat could cause the light to come on, which sounds like total BS to me. This is the third time in 2 years that I have had this problem, and each time after they check it, I get the same story and the problem goes away for awhile.
The brake light continues to be a problem. Crown Honda said the brake fluid is OK, and the brake pads are OK. Any one else have this type of problem?
I own a 1991 Accord LX, and as of an hour ago Im not able to open my driver's side door, from the outside or inside.....This is strange because I never had any problems of this nature.....Im wondering if anyone on here has any advice on how to fix the problem, as Im a DIYer.
Had the identical problems in my 2001 LX. I'm was lucky and they happened under warranty. The brake light is caused by the float sticking in the brake reservoir cap. It controls a switch for the brake light. Notice the electrical leads to the cap. The bad news is you have to replace the cap and the float is attached to it. It's actually a common problem. The SRS light fix it really going to make you unhappy. They will have to take apart the seat and replace the control unit. This won't be cheap. I'm a mechanic and I can vouch for the repairs they did. If I had to pay for the repairs, I would keep driving and ignore the lights. They won't hurt anything.
Are you sure that is isn't a sticking gas pedal because we see alot of them that stick first thing in the morning due to the throttle plate being gummed up. A good throttle body cleaning cures that. Other than that I couldnt say without knowing and viewing some data from the computer.
You probably are not going to like this answer but it sounds like your latch has broken, no fault of yours, and will need to be drilled or cut out. Most Honda shops know how to drill a certain spot of the latch to get it to pop open. The door panel may get damaged due to the fact that it has to be pulled off with the door closed which it is not designed to do. But most of the time that is just a warning and not a norm, I can usally get it off with only a broken clip or two...which can be replaced cheep enough.Good luck
Sometimes if you just turn the cap and lift it off and move the float around a little bit it will fix the brake light for a pretty long time. As for the side air bag, when the light is on, supposedly the bag will not activate. It's a really small side airbag and the reality is it really doesn't give you that much protection in a crash. I though the system was a piece of crap, so when I bought my 04 Civic I didn't get side airbags. It's your call, but looking at the crash numbers, you aren't gaining much protection whether it works or not. Good luck!
3 days ago I noticed that when my car is turned off and the headlights are on, you dont hear the beep msg that remindes you forgot you lights on. Also my driver door small light at the bottom is not even working, I checked the bulb and its fine. Are those two problems linked together? I can't even find the fuse for either? could somebody tell me what the problem is?
Originally did the chime only come on when you left your lights on AND opened the drivers door on your 97? If thats the case, and it no longer happens then I suspect it is your drivers door pin. Do this... -Open the driver door. Does the dome/door lights come on? -Open the Pasanger door. Do the lights come on then?
If the lights only come on after opening the passenger side then the drivers door pin is stuck or shorter.
Let me know if I am off base. If I am please provide more info on the situation.
I drive a 1988 Accord DX, 185k miles. It is a great car. On rare occasions I encounter a problem that makes me wonder if the design engineer was sane. Or sadistic.
The current: the right front turn signal bulb is burned out, or so I think (bulb does not illuminate, rear bulb blinks quickly, everything else appears normal). The Honda shop manual shows two screws holding the lens on, accessible from the front. But there are no screws visible. I tried to access the signal housing from above (removed the headlight), as well as from below, but no joy. This is the first time a front turn signal bulb has ever gone out on this car. I will have to ask the dealer to replace the bulb, if you all cannot tell me how. The car is in good shape and I anticipate driving it for many more years.
Comments
Anyway, I opened the trunk and looked at the speaker from underneath (a cheapo Pioneer made in Mexico). I noticed that there was an opening where the cone was exposed. When I pressed my finger to the cone, the tizz stopped. SO, I got some thick, soft cotton material (cut up an old blanket) and stuffed it in the opening against the cone. The tizz was gone and my ears are happy once again.
I've read several posts on this and other forums about speaker tizz. Hope this home remedy helps.
Engine will not start though it will turn over until the battery runs down. Transmission shift indicator lite D4 remains on and flashes constantly. Problem is intermittent and unpredictable. Looking for a troubleshooting guide for Honda of this year model. Help!
Thanks.
"typical Honda and Toyota on a par"
I couldn't agree more. Initial quality on Toyota is 15 problems out of 100 vehicles. Honda is 16 outa 100. This is over the first 3 years. You should see the other manufactures! Toyota/Honda after 5 years have problems almost half as many times as domestic. All this info is based on JD Power initial quality and Consumer Reports 5 year cost of ownership.
I would put all of that up as qualification for my opinion: I like my Honda.
The fellow who "hates his Honda" I'm sure is having a bad time with his Tranny, but a rant about selling all of the 99's is a little much. Leave this thread for Honda problems and solutions!
On that note: Many thanks for the info on my Black oil post!
After much (MUCH) reading I am going to take a different approach to my oil changes. Mobile 1 100% Synthetic every 5,000-7,500 miles
mechanic blew compressed air up through the drain tube that exits through the fire wall, and can be seen a tad behind the passenger front tire.
tell-tale sign of blockage, stop car with AC on maximum and look under the vehicle: is water going drip drip drip about once per second or so from the drain tube or not?
if not, it's probably blocked.
the mechanic who worked on my car recently indicated leaves and debris can enter in through the vent at the bottom of the windshield and clog the drain.
after the shot of compressed air - he claimed about a gallon of water exited. since then, the car is dripping water through the hose to the ground again, rather than on my feet.
hope it helps.
I assumed the front rotors had warped but, after examination, the dealer advised that the rear drums were badly out of round due to defective drums from a supplier and could not be replaced just yet because Honda Canada has them on back order.
The car was built in Marysville so this may be a problem for some US owners as well.
disappeared.
but drums? how can they mess those up??
The dealer advised me that the drums were so out of round that they could not be machined. He said a supplier had supplied defective drums.
Funny note worth making... I was in a US dealership to have work done on my Canadian Base model and the fellow ask what level of trim. I told him it was a base and he fell out of his chair... "with ROLL UP windows?!?!"
Guess not too many of those sold in the US
You should have bought the silver one. I don't think that they will exchance it for you. Good luck.
no, zero, maintenance problems ! Nothing ! Unfortunately, Honda does not sell the wagon in U.S.---it is sold in Japan-- or make an AWD Accord on the Accord platform.
The SRS light has been reset twice, dealer says the controller or body control module needs replacing. Expensive, $700. job. Need the air bags for Maine inspection and safety piece of mind.
Bite the bullet and be grateful for Honda engineering and quality, or ????????
Ideas ?
A.G. Downeast Maine
An aftermarket warranty from the manufacturer is ideal, but there should be reputable non-manufacturer providers. Just know enough of the company's track record to be confident that it doesn't impose unreasonable claim requirements or worse, won't pay for legit claims.
Also, it's critical to know the fine print provisions of the coverage, because huge deductibles could be part of the package.
I would call a dealer for quotes or referrals. Aftermarket companies want our extended warranty business.
Any help would be much appreciated:) Thanks in advance
Turned out electrical was fine -- it just wasn't getting any gas. They installed a new fuel pump main relay, and it's started fine ever since. I guess the old relay was worn out. They said they become susceptible to a hot interior when they get old -- it's located somewhere under the dash. $89.86 for part, labor, and sales tax.
Are there any TSB's for excess vibration and slight grinding in the gas pedal.
What could it be?
1) Engine control computer after "check engine" light came on and stayed on last January.
2) Radiator - started leaking after upper radiator hose was replaced.
3) Both front wheel bearings.
The warranty has more than paid for itself at this point.
So, if you were me, what else would you pay attention to before the warranty expires in November? Any other notable weak links?
The car is mostly driven in commuting cycle that's 50 miles a day. The drive is not in heavy traffic. Oil has been changed on average every 4,000 miles using Mobil 1 5w-30. We plan to keep the car until it's dead - easily another five years. I'll be doing the timing belt/water pump/accessory belts in early November.
the only link is the cruise control cable so maybe it is coming through there.
clint98v6at
Havent seen that one, can you let it warm up a min or so or is it always on first take off?
The hesitation you mention is something I thought fuel injection pretty much took care of. The old carburetor system produced some cars with real hesitation problems. I haven't experienced this in years, since I started buying fuel injection engines.
Also, my son's car is a manual transmission, so that may make a difference. His car is right at 90,000 miles and never skips a beat, even just after startup. It's impressive how smoothly and strongly it runs at that mileage.
I'm just rambling, I know. Hope someone else has some insight into your problem. Good luck.
Could it be a spark plug issue? I have 77,000 mi. on it. It's a V6 with platinum plugs so I wasn't planning on changing them until 105k when I have the timing belt replaced.
Maybe an EGR carb-up issue? Thought I would get some thoughts from the forum before I go through the hassle of taking it in to the dealer. Thanks.
I had the local dealer (Crown Honda) check this out. They could not re-create either problem. For the SRS light, they said there was no data in the computer, but since they checked it, that problem has stopped. They claimed that putting a cell phone or other object on the passenger seat could cause the light to come on, which sounds like total BS to me. This is the third time in 2 years that I have had this problem, and each time after they check it, I get the same story and the problem goes away for awhile.
The brake light continues to be a problem. Crown Honda said the brake fluid is OK, and the brake pads are OK. Any one else have this type of problem?
If the SRS light is on, doesn't that mean the airbag is turned off? That determines whether I can ignore the light.
Thanks in advance
-Open the driver door. Does the dome/door lights come on?
-Open the Pasanger door. Do the lights come on then?
If the lights only come on after opening the passenger side then the drivers door pin is stuck or shorter.
Let me know if I am off base. If I am please provide more info on the situation.
-Open the Pasanger door. Do the lights come on then?--- YES
i did not check the door pin, any other reasons you can think of??
The current: the right front turn signal bulb is burned out, or so I think (bulb does not illuminate, rear bulb blinks quickly, everything else appears normal). The Honda shop manual shows two screws holding the lens on, accessible from the front. But there are no screws visible. I tried to access the signal housing from above (removed the headlight), as well as from below, but no joy. This is the first time a front turn signal bulb has ever gone out on this car. I will have to ask the dealer to replace the bulb, if you all cannot tell me how. The car is in good shape and I anticipate driving it for many more years.
Thanks, Mark