7500 seems unbelievable. I can understand if this only applies to CA. I'm located in PA. Is it ok if I change the oil every 7500 Miles, then after my car reaches 50k (when the car gets older) I'll do it every 3k....
Can anyone tell me the difference between the 5w-20, 10w-30, 10w-40??? What are the specs of them....Please clarify for me...
you might get a note from the "host" to ask your oil questions in the oil forums.
we get bogged down by way too many "discussions" about oil change intervals and oil usage and oil specs here in Honda land. just use what the manual says and don't stress about it. you will find more things to stress about with your Accord later on. leave the oil change issues to the CR-V people
but a quick answer, yes, you should wait until 7500 to get your first oil change. don't wanna chance voiding your warranty or having engine issues later by not following the owners manual and the direction of your Honda dealer.
Welcome to Town Hall, Mark. As justin said, the oil issues and Accord change intervals have been discussed repeatedly here. You can read these messages by inserting "oil" in the discussion search.
Hi. I just got my accord new a month and a half ago. From the first day it has periodically given me trouble starting. The engine sounds as if it wants to start but it will not turn over. After stopping and retrying a few times it will start but being a new car I dont think it should do this. Does anyone else's do this or does anyone know what the problem might be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I hope to get it in the shop this week but am still mad that its a new car and has to go to the shop! Is it too late to get a different one?
Hi, I purchased a 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 Coupe w/automatic about 8 days ago. The car comes with ABS and Traction Control. I noticed after the 2nd or 3rd day a slight grinding noise/vibration coming through the pedal when the car is in Drive and soon after I start the vehicle.
I've read post #8188 and the following msgs concerning this matter. Maybe it's because I am aware of the noise and I am paying closer attention to it, but it seems like it is getting louder.
People are saying it is because of the TCS self testing. I would like to know if your vehicle is affected by this and has anything else occured because of it. If you could please post whether or not you are affected by this issue and what model you own. TIA!
Did you try to hold the key in Start position a bit longer? This V6 generation takes longer to start. It happened to my 03EXV6 a couple times, not often enough for me to warrant a (TSB 03-079) trip to a dealer.
your V6 will continue to start slowly like that. just leave the key in the "on" position for like 1 full second before you move to "start". lets the fuel pump get ready or something like that...my VW was the same way. something about emissions i think.
shammy:
2003 EX V6. have the same noise. it is the ABS self-test. never gotten worse. no biggie. ignore it if you can. listen for all of the other noises the car can make!
I have my accord v6 for about 1 month now. I recently also notice the slight vibration on the accel pad. This only happens for 3-5 seconds and it occurs in the 1st min of driving the car.
Another issue...I recently realize my engine is a bit louder after it starts up...after it warms up for 2 mins..the loud engine sound goes away.
We were told in the past (on our Odyssey V6) that you need to turn the key to the ON position and wait 3 seconds before turning it to Start, and to never step on the accelerator pedal before it started - or you would have problems occassionally. Don't know if this is true, or whether it applies to the new V6's, but I've never had a problem starting the Odyssey or the 04 Accord using this.
markv6 - can you elaborate on the vibration? I've noticed on my 04 V6, (which I've only had for 2 weeks) a slight "thump" feedback in the accelerator pedal the very first time I step on it after backing out of the driveway in the morning.
It's after I put the car in D for the first time, and about 3 seconds into my pull-away that I feel it. Only happens once. Never feel it again after that. It's happened 4-5 times so far.
It's not terrible, but you can definitely feel it in the pedal when it happens.
when you first start the car, and put the car in in any forward gear, anywhere between 1 and 5 seconds later, you WILL feel a slight blip in the gas pedal. it is the ABS self check. if you DO NOT feel it, your ABS light will most likely come on and direct you to your closest Honda service facility.
Glad to provide humor. But, why would I feel it in the gas pedal if it's an ABS check? Yes, this is a real question - I might expect to feel a moment of hesitation, or resistance in forward motion, or feedback in brake pedal, but not a thump in the gas pedal.
Because when you started moving forward with your foot just on the gas pedal and you heard a slight thump. That made you feel the thump came from the gas pedal. That's how I heard & felt the thump too on my 03EXV6. Try to pump the brake pedal gently a couple times before pulling out & driving forward and see if you still hear the thump.
you feel it in the gas pedal because that is the pedal your foot is on. notice you don't feel it in the gas pedal if your foot isn't on the gas pedal.
since 1987 at least, this has been a regular occurence with lots of cars. Dad's brand new Toyota Supra used to do the same thing in 87 and it was strange, but you get used to it. It was also mentioned in the owners manual back then. not sure about the OM for the Accord. you might check it though.
i know i am a perfectionist when it comes to my cars, but i think we finally found someone that makes more mountains out of molehills than me!
Nah, I won't get mad - except at the "it's the pedal your foot's on" comment (just kidding) ;-)
But seriously, asking questions isn't making a mountain out of a molehill. I've had 15 cars before this one, including my share of recent model Hondas, Toyotas and Nissans, and I've never felt anything like this before. But I never said it was horrible, or I was upset, etc. Just asked about it.
And maybe I'm a bit gun shy on this one because so far my 2 week old Accord has been in the shop for seven different repairs - from the headliner falling out, to a broken dashbord to paint delaminating off the bumper to a distorted windshield (where the Service Manager said "woah, I haven't seen one that bad before"), etc.
Yes, those things are all cosmetic, but do I ask about a thump in the pedal then when it happens? Yes.
Call me silly, but every car has its nuances and it adds peace of mind knowing that something is simply a characteristic of the model rather than an individual problem.
It is very different if you fall into a "Severe" driving conditions category, as opposed to "Normal" driving conditions.
I have a 2003 Accord V6 auto, and I must change the oil every 3,750 miles, NOT every 7,500 miles. I must note that MOST drivers will fall into "Severe" category. From the Honda maintenance manual:
Severe Follow the "severe" schedule only if you drive in one or more of these conditions most of the time:
Trips of less than 5 miles (less than 10 in freezing weather) Extremely hot weather (over 90 degrees F) Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving Trailer towing, car-top carrier, or mountain driving Muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I think the key one is for the majority of us that drive in the suburban stop and go rush hour traffic.
I asked my Honda dealer(s), where I purchased in Atlanta and where I get service now, in Kansas City, and they BOTH said I must adhere to "Severe" schedule simply because I was in that city. It seems that anyone living in a medium-sized city and larger would need to follow 'Severe' schedules or risk having their Warranties voided.
Some of you fall into Normal, I know, but be sure to double-check with a dealer rep or two.
Justin is right, every page has a post about a thump, bump, vibration or grind that is both heard and felt after placing the Accord into Drive and moving forward up to 10 mph. It is 100% normal and very necessary. It is routine ABS self-diagnostics and like Justin said, if you DON'T hear or feel it one morning, be worried. You will feel the thump or vibration no matter what part of the car you are touching, but more so through either of the pedals. The gas is next to the brake and attached to the same frame (on the firewall), so you will feel sympothy pains from the brake when you have your foot on the gas.
This is common sense people, once you read ONE post that explains something similar, please make a mental note and say "Ah, that is what I am experiencing...cool. Now I can go on with my day and be a happy camper knowing my ABS is calibrating correctly in case I need it to save me from a horrible accident"
This isn't even a molehill to make a mountain out of, but more like concern over what is working as intended.
"I must note that MOST drivers will fall into "Severe" category."
Note that the manual also says, when describing the normal maintenance schedule:
"The "normal" schedule is fine for most drivers, even if they occasionally drive in severe conditions."
So Honda clearly doesn't agree with your statement. I live in a suburb of a medium sized city (Milwaukee), and I work in the outskirts of the city. This is a larger metropolitan area than either Atlanta or Kansas City. And nothing about my driving fits into the description of the severe schedule.
If I commuted every day to the downtown area and drove during the height of rush hour, I'd probably fall into the severe schedule by virtue of the "extensive idling or stop-and-go driving" condition. But my commute isn't like that... it's more like ~50 mph with a stoplight every couple of miles. I experience the occasional minor backup, but not even close to extensive.
Do an honest evaluation of your driving habits, and if you have any doubts that you fit into the normal schedule, err on the side of caution and use the severe schedule. But according to how I interpret the schedules, they're set up so that most drivers will fall into the normal category, not the severe category. Years ago, "normal" schedules were set up so that almost nobody would fit that category, but things are significantly different now.
oh, i didn't think the gas pedal comment was funny. that was me being serious. the moutain out of molehill comment was me being a little bit smart
and of course, i feel your pain about your Accord problems. i have my own lovely set of problems with my V6. my point is - don't let the ABS self-check add to your stress. forget about it! concentrate on getting the other stuff fixed so your car can be as perfect as possible. before a shopping cart hits it or something like that and takes away all joy from the experience.
Thank you everyone for your comments. I do feel better now hearing that others are affected with this grinding noise. I think I just needed to hear this, now I can sleep better at nights.
I own a 1991 Honda, went to the dealer and had them run a recall list form my Honda. Come to find out there was a recall on the passive seatbelt. They replaced the front seat belts for free. You should look into it.
I have a 1991 Accord with an erratic idle and it is driving me crazy because it is intermittent. At start up it will run fine until I press heavy on the gas pedal. The car acts normal when I am driving then occasionally at a dead stop the erratic idle will show up. I am at a lost on what to do next because I tried almost everything. Here is what I did so far:
Ether the vacuum lines looking for a vacuum leak Checked and cleaned the EGR valve ohms and voltage checked the MAP sensor ohms and volatge checked the fuel injectors cleaned the IAP sensor checked the fuel regular Changed the throttle body , but not the position switch changed O2 sensor and PVC valve changed the ECM module
To top it all off and what pisses me off the most is that I have yet to get a check engine light. Any ideas out there?
Since you are not getting a code / check engine light, it would have to be something that would not set a code. Your condition is erratic, so I would look at the fuel system. A fuel injector might give you this type of symptom. Water in the fuel is another possibility. Change the fuel filter, and at the same time take a sample of the fuel in a clean jar. On the electrical side of the issue there is always the spark plugs and wires. I hope this helps. -----Greg
I took the car in to the dealership and the shop foreman took it for a drive with me. He was shocked that the brake pedal would sink almost to the floor. They kept the car overnight and resolved the problem.
They couldn't find any leaks in the brake system and the resevoir was full, but the problem was resolved by purging the brake lines... twice.
My question is (and no one at the shop seemed to want to speculate on it), how did air get into the brake lines? I'm under the impression that it's a closed system. Is that not right?
I did change the oil in the car late last week. The front end was jacked up before the brake problem evolved, but I didn't open the brake fluid resevoir. I did, however, apply the emergency brake AFTER lifting the front end of the car (I had forgotten to do it before). Could this have put air into the brake lines??
Your problem sounds exactly like my problem. I just hit 2000 miles on my car and started feeling a drag whenever it shifts from 1000 to 2000 rpm. AND I've noticed a rattling from the trunk just only after a week I started driving. I just went to a dealer and they sat behind the wheel to test my car for the drag I was complaining about. He claimed he felt nothing. I'm so frustrated seeing that you and another edmunds.com user has the exact same problem. Has anything new come of your situation after this posting in June? I need advice.
Yes. My son's Accord 2003 V6 Coupe AT got recalled for problem with second gear of transmission too. If your car is over 15K mile and there is some real problem after the inspection, Honda may give you a new transmission. Otherwise, it installs an oil kit to lubricate the transmission. Good luck. Call a Honda dealer to schedule transmission inspection ASAP.
'99 4 cyl - After many buys of Honda oil filters, my Honda parts dealer has told me that Honda no longer makes the original size (approx. 80 mm dia.) and I had to buy a new size (68 mm dia.). Supposedly this is across all Honda parts locations. I have seen nothing on this in back posts.
Is anyone still finding the '99 original (larger) size? Or is it just my dealer that decided to discontinue? Has everyone went to the smaller size? Are Honda OEM available on-line (original size)? Not so much a case of not trusting the smaller dia. size but I would have to get a new filter wrench if I switch. What have others done?
You offer us your very nice feedback. Honda parts are expensive but they are of excellent quality. My 95 EX I4 runs great at 181K mile. My other 92 LX I4 ran over 200K miles before I tuned it up and gave it to my Dad. I have owned 8 Honda autos and motorcycles for over 35 years. I am going to buy a Honda Accord hybrid 2005 very soon. The key thing is scheduling good periodical maintenance on your Honda to keep it going like...crazy.
It just means that you're approaching a scheduled service interval. Normally, the light just flashes a few times when you start the car and then it goes off. 1500 miles before a scheduled maintenance interval (normal schedule), it flashes longer as a reminder. If you go over the interval without resetting the reminder, it stays on all the time.
Nothing to worry about... just make sure you get the service done.
Your dealer told you the truth. You can no longer buy the larger Honda oil filter anywhere, it has been discontinued. Honda is using the same smaller filter in both Civics & Accords. It serves the same purpose and saves Honda money by only having to carry one filter.
Thanks. I have scheduled regular maintenance at my friend's shop with better price. After the maintenance with new parts, the engine is so quiet like day one. It is a great car with power, 200 HP. I am going to buy an Accord Hybrid 2005 soon. It is fantastic to own a 255 HP Accord hybrid.
BTW, my Accord I4 EX 95 seems to burn oil at 180K miles. But it still runs great and the MPG is same like day 1. I have owned about 8+ Honda autos and motorcycles.
How hard is it to replace a timing belt in a '93 accord? I did replace the radiator and alternator brushes, so I can do basic stuff like that. Has anyone tried this themselves?
I just got my 2004 Accord V6 over the weekend and took it on a trip. It is VERY nice and smooth. However I noticed something strange. Whenever I first start the car and drive, as soon as it gets to 10 mph I notice a slight vibration under the pedal. If I come to a complete stop and start driving again it does not happen. It seems to only happen once after the car starts and hits 10mph. any ideas?
You won't be able to do it yourself. Honda made it so only a mechanic with a special honda wrench can loosen a key nut. I'm a pretty good mechanic and even I will be forced to have mine taken to a shop with the tool. Also, the tool is expensive, if you though you could just buy one.
Dear host, could we please get a disclaimer at the top that says the slight vibration under the pedal when you first start the car is the ABS self-check?
Thank you for the reply. from your reply i guess this question has been asked quite a bit. sorry about that but with over 8000 msgs i would have been searching for days. My 98 honda accord never did this and i was a little worried. Thanx again for your help.
I can't believe how small the oil filters are on newer cars. I looked up the Accord filter at my local parts store and it seems downright tiny compared to the filters on the cars I used to work on years ago. I would definitely change the oil and filter at least 3 times a year regardless of mileage. It's cheap insurance compared with the costs of an engine overhaul or having to scrap a car before its time due to a premature engine failure.
Save yourself some dough and grab the filter wrench at you local AutoZone, NAPA, or wherever (obviously). I got one for about $2, as opposed to the highway robbery price of $10 or more at the local dealers/online Honda dealers.
Well, I got used to the dragging problem. I only feel it when i am pay attention, which is case most of the time. My transmission still shifts hard and now I get engine vibration when accelerating, and the rpm is below 2000 RPM no matter what speed. Dealers told me this is supposed to happen after the engine breaks in. Right! I now have a lawyer working on my case. I have pretty much have given up on trying fixing anything at the dealers.
Comments
7500 seems unbelievable. I can understand if this only applies to CA. I'm located in PA. Is it ok if I change the oil every 7500 Miles, then after my car reaches 50k (when the car gets older) I'll do it every 3k....
Can anyone tell me the difference between the 5w-20, 10w-30, 10w-40??? What are the specs of them....Please clarify for me...
Thanks Everyone
we get bogged down by way too many "discussions" about oil change intervals and oil usage and oil specs here in Honda land. just use what the manual says and don't stress about it. you will find more things to stress about with your Accord later on. leave the oil change issues to the CR-V people
but a quick answer, yes, you should wait until 7500 to get your first oil change. don't wanna chance voiding your warranty or having engine issues later by not following the owners manual and the direction of your Honda dealer.
For your more general question concerning the differences in oil, please go to Engine Oil--A Slippery Subject.
I've read post #8188 and the following msgs concerning this matter. Maybe it's because I am aware of the noise and I am paying closer attention to it, but it seems like it is getting louder.
People are saying it is because of the TCS self testing. I would like to know if your vehicle is affected by this and has anything else occured because of it. If you could please post whether or not you are affected by this issue and what model you own. TIA!
your V6 will continue to start slowly like that. just leave the key in the "on" position for like 1 full second before you move to "start". lets the fuel pump get ready or something like that...my VW was the same way. something about emissions i think.
shammy:
2003 EX V6. have the same noise. it is the ABS self-test. never gotten worse. no biggie. ignore it if you can. listen for all of the other noises the car can make!
I have my accord v6 for about 1 month now.
I recently also notice the slight vibration on the accel pad. This only happens for 3-5 seconds and it occurs in the 1st min of driving the car.
Another issue...I recently realize my engine is a bit louder after it starts up...after it warms up for 2 mins..the loud engine sound goes away.
Can anyone shed some light on this issue,
Thanks
-n
It's after I put the car in D for the first time, and about 3 seconds into my pull-away that I feel it. Only happens once. Never feel it again after that. It's happened 4-5 times so far.
It's not terrible, but you can definitely feel it in the pedal when it happens.
-n
when you first start the car, and put the car in in any forward gear, anywhere between 1 and 5 seconds later, you WILL feel a slight blip in the gas pedal. it is the ABS self check. if you DO NOT feel it, your ABS light will most likely come on and direct you to your closest Honda service facility.
Glad to provide humor. But, why would I feel it in the gas pedal if it's an ABS check? Yes, this is a real question - I might expect to feel a moment of hesitation, or resistance in forward motion, or feedback in brake pedal, but not a thump in the gas pedal.
That's how I heard & felt the thump too on my 03EXV6.
Try to pump the brake pedal gently a couple times before pulling out & driving forward and see if you still hear the thump.
since 1987 at least, this has been a regular occurence with lots of cars. Dad's brand new Toyota Supra used to do the same thing in 87 and it was strange, but you get used to it. It was also mentioned in the owners manual back then. not sure about the OM for the Accord. you might check it though.
i know i am a perfectionist when it comes to my cars, but i think we finally found someone that makes more mountains out of molehills than me!
just kidding, don't get mad!
But seriously, asking questions isn't making a mountain out of a molehill. I've had 15 cars before this one, including my share of recent model Hondas, Toyotas and Nissans, and I've never felt anything like this before. But I never said it was horrible, or I was upset, etc. Just asked about it.
And maybe I'm a bit gun shy on this one because so far my 2 week old Accord has been in the shop for seven different repairs - from the headliner falling out, to a broken dashbord to paint delaminating off the bumper to a distorted windshield (where the Service Manager said "woah, I haven't seen one that bad before"), etc.
Yes, those things are all cosmetic, but do I ask about a thump in the pedal then when it happens? Yes.
Call me silly, but every car has its nuances and it adds peace of mind knowing that something is simply a characteristic of the model rather than an individual problem.
-n
It is very different if you fall into a "Severe" driving conditions category, as opposed to "Normal" driving conditions.
I have a 2003 Accord V6 auto, and I must change the oil every 3,750 miles, NOT every 7,500 miles. I must note that MOST drivers will fall into "Severe" category. From the Honda maintenance manual:
Severe
Follow the "severe" schedule only if you drive in one or more of these conditions most of the time:
Trips of less than 5 miles (less than 10 in freezing weather)
Extremely hot weather (over 90 degrees F)
Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving
Trailer towing, car-top carrier, or mountain driving
Muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think the key one is for the majority of us that drive in the suburban stop and go rush hour traffic.
I asked my Honda dealer(s), where I purchased in Atlanta and where I get service now, in Kansas City, and they BOTH said I must adhere to "Severe" schedule simply because I was in that city. It seems that anyone living in a medium-sized city and larger would need to follow 'Severe' schedules or risk having their Warranties voided.
Some of you fall into Normal, I know, but be sure to double-check with a dealer rep or two.
This is common sense people, once you read ONE post that explains something similar, please make a mental note and say "Ah, that is what I am experiencing...cool. Now I can go on with my day and be a happy camper knowing my ABS is calibrating correctly in case I need it to save me from a horrible accident"
This isn't even a molehill to make a mountain out of, but more like concern over what is working as intended.
:^)
Note that the manual also says, when describing the normal maintenance schedule:
"The "normal" schedule is fine for most drivers, even if they occasionally drive in severe conditions."
So Honda clearly doesn't agree with your statement. I live in a suburb of a medium sized city (Milwaukee), and I work in the outskirts of the city. This is a larger metropolitan area than either Atlanta or Kansas City. And nothing about my driving fits into the description of the severe schedule.
If I commuted every day to the downtown area and drove during the height of rush hour, I'd probably fall into the severe schedule by virtue of the "extensive idling or stop-and-go driving" condition. But my commute isn't like that... it's more like ~50 mph with a stoplight every couple of miles. I experience the occasional minor backup, but not even close to extensive.
Do an honest evaluation of your driving habits, and if you have any doubts that you fit into the normal schedule, err on the side of caution and use the severe schedule. But according to how I interpret the schedules, they're set up so that most drivers will fall into the normal category, not the severe category. Years ago, "normal" schedules were set up so that almost nobody would fit that category, but things are significantly different now.
and of course, i feel your pain about your Accord problems. i have my own lovely set of problems with my V6. my point is - don't let the ABS self-check add to your stress. forget about it! concentrate on getting the other stuff fixed so your car can be as perfect as possible. before a shopping cart hits it or something like that and takes away all joy from the experience.
BTW didnt mean to stir up such a fuss
Ether the vacuum lines looking for a vacuum leak
Checked and cleaned the EGR valve
ohms and voltage checked the MAP sensor
ohms and volatge checked the fuel injectors
cleaned the IAP sensor
checked the fuel regular
Changed the throttle body , but not the position switch
changed O2 sensor and PVC valve
changed the ECM module
To top it all off and what pisses me off the most is that I have yet to get a check engine light. Any ideas out there?
They couldn't find any leaks in the brake system and the resevoir was full, but the problem was resolved by purging the brake lines... twice.
My question is (and no one at the shop seemed to want to speculate on it), how did air get into the brake lines? I'm under the impression that it's a closed system. Is that not right?
I did change the oil in the car late last week. The front end was jacked up before the brake problem evolved, but I didn't open the brake fluid resevoir. I did, however, apply the emergency brake AFTER lifting the front end of the car (I had forgotten to do it before). Could this have put air into the brake lines??
Yes. My son's Accord 2003 V6 Coupe AT got recalled for problem with second gear of transmission too. If your car is over 15K mile and there is some real problem after the inspection, Honda may give you a new transmission. Otherwise, it installs an oil kit to lubricate the transmission. Good luck. Call a Honda dealer to schedule transmission inspection ASAP.
Call a nearest Honda dealer ASAP. Accord V6 2003/ 2004 have been recalled for transmission issues.
Is anyone still finding the '99 original (larger) size? Or is it just my dealer that decided to discontinue? Has everyone went to the smaller size? Are Honda OEM available on-line (original size)? Not so much a case of not trusting the smaller dia. size but I would have to get a new filter wrench if I switch. What have others done?
You offer us your very nice feedback. Honda parts are expensive but they are of excellent quality. My 95 EX I4 runs great at 181K mile. My other 92 LX I4 ran over 200K miles before I tuned it up and gave it to my Dad. I have owned 8 Honda autos and motorcycles for over 35 years. I am going to buy a Honda Accord hybrid 2005 very soon. The key thing is scheduling good periodical maintenance on your Honda to keep it going like...crazy.
Nothing to worry about... just make sure you get the service done.
Thanks. I have scheduled regular maintenance at my friend's shop with better price. After the maintenance with new parts, the engine is so quiet like day one. It is a great car with power, 200 HP. I am going to buy an Accord Hybrid 2005 soon. It is fantastic to own a 255 HP Accord hybrid.
BTW, my Accord I4 EX 95 seems to burn oil at 180K miles. But it still runs great and the MPG is same like day 1. I have owned about 8+ Honda autos and motorcycles.
Dear host, could we please get a disclaimer at the top that says the slight vibration under the pedal when you first start the car is the ABS self-check?
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint03.html
Save yourself some dough and grab the filter wrench at you local AutoZone, NAPA, or wherever (obviously). I got one for about $2, as opposed to the highway robbery price of $10 or more at the local dealers/online Honda dealers.
Happy motoring.
I wanted to know if this thing is normal. The light goes off in like 2 seconds, however it always comes on when you start the car.