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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005



  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Posts: 326
    Just got my LX Coupe back from service. I mentioned that the windshield gasket on the drivers side does not fit properly at the bottom (about 1" of raw edge of glass is exposed). Just cosmetic, no leaks. I thought that they could just seal back down, but they are ordering a new gasket. How difficult is it to replace this gasket? I want it to look as good as new when they get done. What is your opinion on replacing the gasket?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    They dont have us reseal the glass at our shop, we have a glass company do it.So I dont know how involved it is,however I dont know if I would have it done with it not leaking or anything. If it is just cosmetic could you not do something to make it look better? Although I am sure it is not a bad job cause they seem to do it easy enough,I just wouldnt want to take the chance on creating a problem.Are you sure there are no leaks? Of course I can't see it so I dont know how bad it is and if it bothers you then you deserve the car the way you want it so....I guess what I am saying is, it is your choice. I have seen them after they were done and the ones I have saw came out nice.Good luck with your choice
  • notmnotm Posts: 22

    I've noticed something that may be affecting my A/C temperature. My A/C on a 2000 LX is just not that cool. I am in SF and it doesn't get that warm here.BTW it does not have the Auto Temperature Gizmo that the EX has.

    With the Temperature(blue/red ring) knob set all the way in the blue AND A/C OFF AND recirc air OFF-- the air coming from the dash center/side vents is quite warm. I've checked the temp in separate and combinations of the following (without thermometer) normal driving windows up, after car has sat over 4hrs, windows up, windows down; highway and street speeds; fan at 1-4--the air coming from the vents is always warmer than outside air.
    Only after A/C is turned off after running 10+ minutes is the vent air not warmer than outside for a little while until it gets warm.

    Is it possible to get pure outside air that is not heated?

    This warm air coming from just the vent seems to be related to the fact that the AC is not that powerful. It is starting with a handicap.

    Any similar observations?

    Auburn, Any explanations?

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Some of the vented air that is coming into your car has passed over the engine and underhood area.So therfore it will be alittle heated because of this. Also incoming fresh air runs through the inside of the car before exiting out the vent and it picks up some of the heat inside the car. You will also want some one to check and make sure the hot water valve is completly closing if not then the air is also being heated by the heater core.
    For max cooling when first getting in car you should have windows down,recerc on,ac on max speed.After short time(1-3min)roll up windows and adjust blower speed to your comfort.The lower the blower speed the cooler the air will be,however when it is hot in car its best to have on high until you get cooled off.
  • j_walkerj_walker Posts: 99
    I recently installed the in-dash CD player in my
    wife's 1998 Accord and now noticing that the
    digital clock's time displays when the key is not
    in the ignition per the owner's manual. Also, the
    clock isn't back-lit allowing the time to be
    displayed in low light or when the headlights are
    turned on. I'd not noticed this before. Are
    either of these symptoms normal?
  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    Dude, you are good!!!! I took it to the Honda service department, and they said the same thing. Good feeling that I only will be out a couple of hundred bucks instead of thousands. Gotta give Immke Honda's (Dublin, OH) service department credit for excelling in customer service. They always do a great job.
  • cgianoscgianos Posts: 3
    My wife's car has a braking problem. On hot days the brakes will almost totally fail if the car is going down a hill. It feels like there is air in the system but after a minute or so they work OK again. (They have been bled twice) This only happens occassionaly, but obviously it is a big problem. Two trips to the dealer have resulted in "there is nothing wrong with it". I saw an article in a Sacramento area paper about a women who's Accord went through the same thing, resulting in an accident that killed a passenger. This really has us worried but we expect others may know how to fix this.

    Any suggessions on what to look for? We would like to keep the car a couple more years, it is only usxed for a short (3 mile) commute to work.

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    The bulb is probably blown. I have replaced many, all you need to do is pull the clock and take out the small bulb and replace it. If the bulb is good then you need a clock but most just need the bulb.

    Amazon, y thank you,,,thank you very much ;)

    Most likely one of two things...
    1.Sticky or frozen brake caliper pins, if the caliper can't slide then it makes the pedal effort harder and the pedal to go lower to the floor.

    2.The brake master cylynder is on its way out only intermitantly failing at this time.Sometimes you can check this by putting car in gear and rolling forward then very slowly apply the brakes. If the brake pedal sinks to near the floor and gives you very little braking then it is bad.Give it a try and if you are not for sure it may be a best guess kind of thing.I have seen a lot of the 90-93 Accords need masters as of late.
  • cls2000cls2000 Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2000 EX V6 in April and I have been very pleased with this car so far. I have not had any of the transmission problems which I have read so much about here but my car was manufactured in Jan '00. I have noticed a persistent rattle in the dashboard especially at highway speeds but also noticable on a bumpy street. Has anybody had experience with this? I noticed it at about 500 miles and now at over 2000 miles it is not getting any better. Sometimes it is more noticeable than others and you can't always drown it out with the radio. I hesitate to bring this to the dealer to try and find beacuse I know it can be hard to locate and I don't want to create a new problem while fixing a fairly minor one.
  • prodigyprodigy Posts: 7
    I had a similar rattle in my 2000 EX V6. It was more prevelant when it was cold. It did not always rattle. I took it to the dealer on a cold morning and luckily was able to reproduce it when the service writer took a ride with me. Later in the day when the tech looked at it, it would not rattle. Fortunately, he was able to reproduce it by turning the A/C on. It turned out to be both of the side vents (driver + passenger) that had to be "re-crimped". It was quite annoying until it was fixed.
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    I haven't heard the rattle from the dashboard yet, but I have hear many others from my nice Accord Coupe. Does anyone else hear a rattle from the sunroof ONLY when you close it from being opened, not tilted up? Of course the dealer can't hear it, along with my other 2 rattles.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    If you use the Shin Etsu greese on your sunroof gasket most of the roof rattles will be fixed.You can buy it at your Honda dealer.Clean around the area first then apply it,let it stand for 2 min then lightly wipe the gasket with a clean cloth to work it in.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    I left the windows(front) down about an inch. Rained pretty good. Got the front seats mildly wet. Now the side airbag indicator light is staying lit. Anybody know why? It's pretty dry now, but the light hasn't gone out yet.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Based on your advise, I called regional customer service department and asked the copy of service bulletin about hesitation/stumbling. They were very helpful and faxed it to me. I will take my car with the copy of this bulletin to dealership and get this adjusted.
  • picenopiceno Posts: 55
    I purchased my HONDA ACCORD EX-V6 in May/2000,
    in Montreal, Canada. The first problem I had was that the SRS red light would not go off. This
    happened on a saturday, and I was afraid to drive
    the car for fear that the AIR bags (SIDE or FRONT)
    would deploy at high speeds. So I had to wait for
    Monday when the dealer investigated, and found a faulty SRS control module. They pronptly replaced the module. I have not had a problem with the
    SRS warning light since.

    By the way, I have NOT had any transmission problems with my EX-V6. I now have 1500 kilometers (or 900 miles) on it. The car was
    manufactured in March/2000. This date is clearly
    visible upon opening the front driver's door.

    So far I love this automobile (signet grey).
    Here are the reasons why:

    . Tremendous acceleration & passing power
    . Extremely quiet engine; it's so smooth that
    I have to look at the tachometer to see if the
    engine is engaged.
    . Beautiful, functional & ergonomic interior.
    I had the simulated woodgrain installed, and
    it adds a true look of class.
    The leather seating is very comfortable.
    The back seats are very spacious.
    I also like the automatic climate control,
    although I'm still not used to it.
    . The CD player is very clear & crisp; the sound
    system is excellent.
    . The alloy wheels are really great looking, and

    Before this car, I had a Honda accord 1987...and
    I was also very pleased with it. By the way, it's
    still running, with 125,000 miles on it!

  • dc18dc18 Posts: 6
    I've notice a "clunk" sound when I start my 2k Accord (4 cyl, auto trans). It doesn't happen all the time, but it is noticeable from inside the car. Anyone else have this noise???

  • vinneyvinney Posts: 43
    I haven't had time to take my 2000 accord lx 4cyl auto trans in yet for that one time hesitation. I know you said reseting the idle w/ pgmfi tool procedure cures the 99's. Here is what I did differently, instead of putting trans in D4 I shifted to D3 until the car hit normal operating temp.then shifted to D4 and did not feel the jerk or hesitation three days in a row.My question is do you still think it is the idle still because I just read a bulletin in NHTSA about the torque converter causing shudder or judder between 20-40 mph while clutch is not quite in lockup mode.My car just jerks once if its in D4 at 40 to 50 mph. I have another question if the problem is to reset the idle why won't the car act up while driving in D3.Also do you recommend lubricating window channels since I've noticed some windows move up and down faster than others. Can I use silicone spray and also for the weather stripping?
    Thanks for your response on my other post.
  • vinneyvinney Posts: 43
    I also have a 2000 accord 4cyl auto and almost all the time I hear a clunk when starting engine cold. I think its normal,when engine is cold it starts quickly at fast idle and thats what we are hearing. Also, it really doesn't sound like a clunk to me more like engine mounts reacting to engine starting quickly at fast idle. Well I hope this helps and its only my opinion.
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    asethi, I noticed the same thing on my 4cyl accord after I got it. It drifts to one side, you correct a little and it seems to dart for the other side. This happens continuously. It's as if the car is following a path within the lane you're in. I took mine to the dealer and they could not find a problem. I have either gotten used to it or it has gone away. I think it's a combination of the car and the type of road you're on. The front end is light and road impressions tend to easily change the direction of the car. My other cars don't do this.
  • notmnotm Posts: 22
    Right, I know that the air passes over the engine, just like almost all other autos. this air is warmer than any car that I've ever driven or ridden in. Also other cars do not require BLASTING the AC on HIGH to cool things down. The fan is annoying. I don't even like AC but it is my only choice to cool the car down.

    I do all those steps you described in post #39

    thanks for the input!!!

    Accord owners--any similar hot air?
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Posts: 326
    I am able to cool my car down pretty quick by setting the fan to level 3, window cracked and air set to fresh air (ac on, of course). I run it like this for about 3-5 minutes to blow out the superheated air then switch to recirculate and turn the fan to level 2. Works pretty good for me. When I left work today it was 96 degrees and I was able to cool the car down with no problems. Of course your car is black so it gets hotter inside than mine does. May take longer to cool down initially, but should stay cool after that.

    You may want to check the temp of the air coming out of your vents to be sure that the ac is cooling properly. Auburn63 mentioned in an earlier post what that temp should be--around 55 degrees I think???
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Posts: 326
    I went back and found Auburn63's post on the temp from the center vent--Post #27. Temp should be around 45 degrees at idle.
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    The dealer told me that Honda had a problem with the A/C blowing somewhat warm air. I dunno. Mine really doesn't get cold unless you put it to 60 degrees and drive a lot. It doesn't bother me though, I rarely ever use the A/C.

    - Anthony
  • notmnotm Posts: 22
    I'll let you know what Honda says next week about the air.
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    Does anyone else have a rattle coming from the
    center dashboard near the two center air vents??
    It's pretty loud, so if you have it, I doubt you
    wouldn't be able to hear it. It first sounded like it was coming from the glove box, so I took
    everything out of there and the rattle didn't go
    away. Then I put me ear up to the vent (yes, while I was driving! Hey, it was 11:00 at night and no one else was on the road) and I heard it from around there. Anyone else have this problem??

    - Anthony
  • terminalisterminalis Posts: 40
    This is not a problem, so I don't know if I'm in the right forum. But, I know there are a few car enthusiasts here, so let me ask you folks some questions.

    I use Mother's liquid wax (often) and Maguire's cleaner wax (once in a while) for my accord. The problem is they don't last long enough. After like two washings, wax is gone. Do you know any good wax that lasts? Also, I'd like to get more shine. IMO, they don't really give good shine.

    I wax my accord every two weeks or even more often. Waxing is fun, but I think wax should last at least one month.

    Any suggestions?
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    The wax isn't really gone in two weeks, just the smooth feeling is. The water will still bead for about another two months or so. If you want the best wax that'll make your surface smooth like glass, and will make the paint look deep and glossy, it all comes down to Zymol. You can pick up the Zymol Cleaner Wax for about $12 for 16 ounces at Super Trak, Walmart, Target, etc. It is consumer rated #1, and I believe that it is the best wax in the world.

    - Anthony
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Posts: 326
    For a long lasting shine, use NuFinish. I waxed my Coupe with it in March, and water still beads on the surface. Others may shine better, but NuFinish lasts longer. My 2 cents worth.
  • bjklintonbjklinton Posts: 12
    Might suggest you go to Lots of great car care info there. After I studied their line of waxes, I settled on the "Blitz" wax. It is by far the best / easiest I have ever used (and oh what a shine). All the other products purchased from them worked exactly as they described, and I had them delivered to my door in about 2-3 days. Don't mean to sound like a info-mercial, but when I find something good I like to share it. Good luck.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    There is lots of information right here in this conference on waxes and other finishes. Check out these two topics: Store Bought Waxes (Topic #1038) and Zaino Car Care Experiences (Topic #1319).

    In case you are not familiar with Zaino, it is a mail order polymer based product that some folks around here are quite enamored of. The "Store Bought" topic was set up specifically to discuss all other car waxes and finishes besides Zaino. I'm pretty sure that Mother's, Meguiars, Zymol, NuFinish and Blitz have all been discussed there (or in its precedent).

    Each topic has links in post 0 to preceding topics. And if that's not enough to keep you busy for a while, we also have a topic on Paint and Body Care (Topic #20) that also has lots of good info.

    Happy reading! :-)

    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
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