Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

jyo

Last week my 91 Accord gave me check engine sign and also oil pressure sign came up. After checking
for oil, I realised that I had very little oil left. My mechanic told me that there was a leak at the distributor 'O' ring but that does not explain why nearly all the oil is used up. He told me that
my air filter was dirty and also sparkplugs were nearly dead and that may make my car run harder.
Is this a possible reason?? I live in a area where
there is lot of construction. Thanks, Jyo

auburn63

If the spark plugs are worn then they need replacing, have found that the NGK's run the best.
A 1991 is probably burning a little oil as well as leaking it. Not a big problem but you will need to check it more often as running it low like that will be a problem.If you are asking could it be your code I doubt it. Check engine lights have many codes, what was the code?

jyo

I am not sure what spark plugs and dirty air filter have to do with car burning more oil???
on a 91 accord with 135000 miles, I do not expect to have this problem.. I may be wrong here but I need some sort of advice if this is indicative of
a major problem. I will decide to sell this car if
it indicates a major problem. Any advice would be
helpful in making my decision. If dirty air filter and spark plug changes gets my car in better shape
I will be happy. Jyo

auburn63

No I wasnt saying that they would be related I was just saying that it may be burning a little bit of oil.After time goes by if the motor wasn't taken care of the rings get sticky and dont seal as well. I am not saying that is what is wrong with yours but it could be. Have you seen the top half of the motor with the valve cover off? Is it clean? Pull the spark plug wires out and see if the tubes are leaking. If they are you will see it on the plug wires.Is there any leaks on the ground?

snowman

Your accord seems like pretty much ignored for long time.

gye

My 97 Accord has developed tail brake light problem.
Center mounted and two inner tail brake lights(trunk lid mounted)do not come on when brake was applied. Only two outer brake lights still work.

Check the "stop light" fuse and it's fine. The possibility for 3 burned bulbs is very unlikely.

Any one had same problems before?

isellhondas

On a 130,000 mile accord unless you are one to skimp on oil changes and other maintenance.

Your air filter must have been pretty dirty for a mechanic to mention it.

Any car can be killed from lack of care, even a Honda.

snowman

Most likely you can recall that my car was hesitating during acceleration with cold engine. I took it to dealership along with service bulletin. They set the base engine idle but the proble is still there. When I was driving away from dealership it did not hesitate but this morning it hesitated. It is doing it if the engine is cold and does it only once, more likely
AT kick feel (I have 5spd). I don't want them to take parts apart and use try and error method. What would you do if this car was in your service bay.
Thanks.

auburn63

I will call techline for you if you wish. I can only call them with a VIN number however, so if you feel comfortable sending me your VIN you can send it to my e-mail auburn63@home.com. Maybe they will be able to help.Give me the state you live in as well if possible, it may help them if they have certain issues in certain parts of the country.Also does it ever stall? If you dont feel comfortable then just ask your dealer to call for you and see about it.I would have to think that it has to be something with the TW (water temp)sensor but that is just a guess.Let me know.

snowman

Thank you. I e-mailed every info that I have. I will be looking forward to hear from you.

jyo

Thanks for your info. I have been changing oil every 3000-3500 miles and have never missed it.
I did my last major service at 115000 miles and
I am not sureif they changed the air filter then.
I know it sounds like the accord was not maintained well but it was. I hope the fact that I have changed oil at regular intervals will help
me in this situation. SO far I have driven 1000
miles after the service and oil is still full so
let's see. Thanks,
Jyo

auburn63

I e-mailed you a more complete explanation about your car.
As for the one time cold hesitation within about a mile of first driving. This is being considered a characteristic of the car. The purge control solenoid is opening to do a evaporitive emission test at that point and when it opens it causes this hesitation.It seems that only those with manual transmissions will notice as the automatics absorbs the hesitation better. However even an automatic owner could feel this as it does happen with all the Accords it is just not as noticeable in automatics.

x1x82

My pathetic '99 Accord Coupe EX-VL has yet another problem. During mildly aggressive acceleration from a full stop a clicking/thumping can be heard and felt in the steering wheel and gas pedal. The rate of the annoyance increases as the car accelerates. It feels like I'm running over little sticks in the road.

The problem is sporadic and hard to reproduce, therefore, the Honda dealership gave me the "don't worry about it you've got two more years warranty" excuse.

I've already had the torque converter replaced (twice) for the shudder problem many are having.

Any ideas? CV joints? Complete tranny replacememt?

auburn63

I have had 1 car with a similar problem as yours. I was able to hear the noise on turns while accelerating and once in a while hard accel straight ahead. I could hear and feel the noise from the floor board area.Turned out to be the exhaust hitting the floor board near the resenator. If nothing else ask them to look at the exhaust and see if it is bent or out of place..If it were a cv joint it would make more noise on turns and change as you turn left to right.Plus I would think they(Honda techs) would be able to hear that one and identify it.Also would want to check the rear engine mount and make sure that the padding is not comming out of place..Good luck

theresa11

I am interested in buying a 2000 Honda Accord EX-6cyl but have heard that reliability is an issue; transmission, leaking oil, etc. I have owned 2 previous Honda's w/o any trouble. Current Accord has 115K miles. Any feedback before I take the plunge. I've tested every car on the market and my other choice is a Volvo S70. Any help is appreciated.

x1x82

Theresa11,

My feedback to your post is don't buy a Honda. I've owned my '99 Accord Coupe EXVL for just one year and have had numerous problems. Lets see...

- paint flaking off the mufflers
- fuel gauge stopped working
- numerous rattles and squeeks in the interior
- driver's seat feels loose and sloppy
- heater/air fan rattles when turned on
- 'two' torque converters replaced
- may be getting transmission replaced soon

Since I bought my Accord something else bad has happend every month. I will never buy a Honda again.

Good Luck!

broncodave

Any given car can have trouble. I have had 2 Pontiacs and had nothing but trouble with them as have many others. Once is a mistake, twice is a trend, and 3 times is a problem. IMO you cannot beat the long-term reliability year-after-year of the Accord. That is not to say you can't have problems. However, I think your ownership experience is more common that x1s82's.

As for the V6 Accords, one of the reason that I went with the 4cyl is that it gets better gas mileage. Also, Honda has perfected the VTEC 4cyl. The V6 is fairly new to the Accord lineup.

If you are into the Volvo class market, what about an Acura? The main thing that scares me about Volvo is that they are owned by Ford.

snowman

Looking for advise??? Best feedback will be your experience and you already have it.
Accord is the best car that you can buy within $18K-$22K.

jacktor

'00 Accord EX - 6 cyl

I have an Accord LX-V6. It is a fine example of quality, reliability and functionality, the best price to value car available today. The Accord may be "plain vanilla" when compared to the near-luxury cars with extra bells and whistles but is an excellent trade for the peace of mind that comes with such a fine automobile.

Regards,
Jack

x1x82

Thanks for the info. about possible solutions to the my post about drive train clicking. The problem has finally gotten bad enough that I can consistently reproduce it. I'll be going to the shop again this Monday and will mention your thoughts to them.

Thanks for the response!

tisun

I have a 90 Accord LX with 165K miles. Recently, I have started having problems with starting the car. The battery and starter seem fine, because there is power and the engine cranks as I turn the key. However, sometimes the engine either doesn't start or just sputters and dies. Usually, repeated attempts do not help; at other times, it runs. Does anyone know what's happening and how to remedy this? Thanks.

-Ti

auburn63

x1x82,
It always helps when the noise can be duplicated easily so maybe,hopefully they will be able to find and fix it. Always glad to try and help, so your welcome and good luck..

tisun,
Sounds to me like you either have a distributor related problem such as a rotor, igniter, coil or you have a bad main fuel relay. The main fuel relays were going bad alot. They tend to not want to start on real hot days or when you take a short trip get out for a bit and then get back in and try to restart.That is not to expensive so i would probably start with that..Good luck

piceno

When can I expect to see the true gas mileage on a
brand new car? I now have 1600 miles on my 2000
Accord EX V6, and I'm not getting the expected
22 MPG combined city/highway. Does anyone know
if the "BREAK IN" period of a new car means
higher gas consumption?

Thanks, Piceno

xfactor

Well the check engine light came on again. Called the dealer he said bring it in Monday.

Second time. Any suggestions on what I should push the dealer to do. If you recall I had the same issue only two-three weeks ago.

Both times the light came on when slowing down and then giving a little gas to make a turn. Not that this means anything.

I did mention to service guy on phone this is second time he says those lights can be a nuisance".

I also had a problem two months back were the SRS light would not go out.

Other then documenting the visits I would appreciate any suggestions insights possible things to look for.

Thanks

thicks23

It is not uncommon to have bad gas mileage on a car that hasn't been broken in. Gas mileage usually improves as you get closer to 5k miles and sometimes 6k so no need to worry. Whatever you do don't get the oil changed until after 5k miles because it is important to leave the special break-in oil in the engine until the first scheduled maintenance comes around.

Tom

auburn63

I would have them look at it early and give you a call with the findings.If it is the same code as last time then they need to find out why. If it is a differant code then maybe it will be a common one like an o2 sensor or a evaporative emmission.These are starting to become more common therefore easier to diagnose and repair.If I remeber correctly it was a P1486 Range/Performance Problem in Thermostat this would lead me to check the thermostat and the tw sensor as well as the coolant level.Let us know what they say and good luck..

flyers99

I have 2 questions.

1. I've read many of the posts and some may have covered this topic, but I own a 1999 Accord EX 4cyl. The transmission nevers seems to find the correct gear after I slow down and then hit the gas. It hesitates and then jerks forward. This also happens when I turn a corner at slow speeds. VERY ANNOYING! Anyone else have this problem?

2. The drivers seat I have comes with a power switch for moving the seat up & down. I really want a seat that has the power tilt for the front of the seat. Does anyone know if Honda makes a power seat with this option (In cloth) for the Accord? Even a manual adjustment to tilt the seat up would be great. Thanks!!

jthukral

I own an SE 00 and hv been experiencing the same problem.When I'm moving at 50mph and brake,it to 30mph or so , the car shifts to lower gear ( I think 2nd) and then if I press gas it hesitates for a while before moving ahead. This happen everything I brake and go.

Mine car has 700 miles on it and I thought its bcos of breakin period and should go but not sure now as your's has already crossed that period and still has the problem.

xfactor

Thanks for the prompt response and the information.

Your memory is correct the last code was p1486. I will ask the dealer to call me with the code when they know the problem.

I will keep posted.

acmeroadrunnr

The Honda dealership I purchased my Accord from drains the factory oil from every new car they sell and replace it with Valvoline before the car goes anywhere. They also recommend the first oil change at 1000 miles (which I did). I now have 10,000 miles on my 2k EX I4 and it seems to be fine.
Anyone know if the lack of "breakin oil" is really going to cause a problem for my engine later on? Or, is the factory oil just a conservative approach.

auburn63

Honda has told many of the dealerships(obviously not yours) that the break in oil is superior to regular market oil and to leave it in their motors for a minimum of 3750, max 7500.Now is it going to cause your engine any problems? I don't think so. For years we have done 1,000 mile changes and the cars have been just fine and the motors are not all that differant from then. So don't worry about it, just enjoy the ride you will be fine....

mmulliki

I have a 2000 Accord Coupe V6. I am also experiencing the transmission shudder problem at low RPM's. At the first oil change, I had the dealer check it out and they gave me the 'its operating as expected' line.

Have any of you had to contact Honda to get your car fixed? If so, can you share your experience? Who did you contact and how many times? How long before you got a resolution?

I have heard of people having the torque converter replaced -- did that totally fix the problem? Has anyone had a complete transmission replacement (not those that had the reverse clunk problem)?

terminalis

mmulliki,

Sorry to hear about your problem. When was your car manufactured?

This problem has been discussed extensively before. I had the torque converter replaced in my Accord V6, but it didn't solve the problem. After that, Honda replaced the complete tranny. No shudder anymore, not even once after the replacement. Yes, I had to contact Honda to do something about it. Honda will push the dealership to take a closer look at your problem. However, the hard part was that Honda needed a confirmation from a Honda mechanic before authorizing the replacement. I have to tell you that it was a long hard road and a major piss off. Good thing is that everything seems fine now. Only complain I have now is a strange noise coming from undercarriage during moderate acceleration.

And don't believe the "it's normal" [non-permissible content removed]. If it's really normal, then a replacement tranny should do the same thing. But, in my case, the replacement solved the problem. Moreover, before replacement, the tranny didn't downshift properly. And the car seemed sometimes so "heavy", and didn't respond to throttle nicely. The car didn't respond and, instead of releasing lock-up, the tranny downshift when pressed hard. This problem has also been solved after the replacement.

I'm surprised that some folks are still having this shudder problem. I was told that this problem has been solved already.

Good luck.

maq4463

Hi Guys,
I had the same problem with starting my 90 Accord LX. I changed the distributer cap and rotor and that seemed to have worked. It didn't have the problem any more.

One quetion though. Now the speedometer have started behaving funny. Mostly in hot weather, it seems to die down while driving then suddenly comes back. Keeps doing that on and off. I know 90 Accord doesn't have Spedo Cable, its electric. Any suggestions!
Thanks

x1x82

My '99 Accord V6 had the common transmission shudder at low RPMs. My Honda dealership replaced the torque converter, but the problem still existed. About a month later they replaced the torque converter again with a torque converter that "addressed my specific problem" and I haven't had a shudder since. The dealership also told me they've fixed three other cars that had the same problem with the new torque converter.

The problem is real. Honda does have a fix.

Good Luck!

acmeroadrunnr

Thanks for the reply. I will keep a close ear to my engine for any noise, especially when I get close to 36k miles.

smithjt

My aunt bought a new 2000 Accord a couple months ago. She immediately started noticing a strange noise coming from the gas tank at approximately 5 minute intervals while the car is off. Apparently the tank is releasing pressure due to the warm climate (Ohio). The local dealer had "never heard of this" but called the factory and found out there was a service bulletin stating that this is normal. Meanwhile the service manager told her that her "hearing is too sensitive". She can hear this noise inside the house through the walls when the car is in the garage! Honda is being very rude to her and therefore I have ruled out Honda in favor of a new Volkswagen. Has anyone heard this noise or heard of this problem?

auburn63

Sounds as if your speedo head(guage) is going bad. I have not seen a bad sensor yet and the wires unless modified,chewed by animal,or in accident are usally good.

sanandton

My 99LX I4 does the same thing. Especially when it is warm. A friend of mine who is a honda tech. tells me it is a pressure equalizing valve of some type. It has been less noticeable after 7k miles, but I still hear it from time to time.

frag235

My new(3K miles)Accord SE's steering wheel seems to be a tad off-center (1/2")to the left when driving (been that way since new)...should I have the alignment checked, or is the car adjusting for the "tilt" in the road? When would you recommend the first oil change? (I do mostly highway driving) Should I do all my oil changes at the dealer? Thanks for all your help on this forum!

jthukral

Check air pressure, uneven air in wheels will cause car to tilt.

frag235

Already checked that....it's OK.

auburn63

I would take it in soon to the dealer,the warranty for alignments is not very long due to road conditions and such.The alignment may be off or maybe just the centering is off, either way it can be corrected.Have them give a look and see as I can't really determine if it is just road crown or not.
The first oil change according to Honda is 7,500 I like to change mine at every 3,750 with a tire rotation at every other(which works out to be a rotate every 7,500). You don't have to go to the dealer for the changes but I would suggest that if you do not then buy Honda oil filters and crush washers and take them with you.The Honda filters hold oil in them better for cold start and the crush washers are under the drain plug as gaskets and should be changed every oil change. Good luck with your car....

amadeus00

I've got a 98 EX Coupe and I hear a strange popping noise coming from the driver rear side. It occurs at high speed (40+ MPH) and it sounds irradic. It doesn't sound anything related to the tires or anything that moves at a constant rate. It sounds like pop corn or oil popping. You only can hear it when you have the radio off or listening to talk radio. Has anyone heard of this problem?? Please help because it's pretty annoying.

fritz1224

I think the majority of you people have nothing better to do than look for problems with your new purchase. I've been on this board for at least one year and there's always problems. Don't let these posts sway your perceptions of how this car performs. I have the 2k LX V6 and it has been perfect. I think it's a rocket when I want it to be.

fritz1224

You know what I mean

choken

When cruising along at between 1750 and 2000 rpm, with the torque converter locked (Between 55 and 60 mph) and applying a little throttle (so as to maintain speed up a slight grade), the car misses. It feels like an ignition miss of old. The dealer's service department couldn't replicate the miss upon the first complaint, and upon the second complaint said that the car was within "normal operating parameters." The car has 18000 on it now. I didn't experience the miss for the first 12000 miles or so. The service manual says that this kind of miss (low rpm) may be due to fuel pressure problems. Anyone out there with similar experiences? We love the car but if this is normal it is annoying.Thanks for your help.

frag235

for the advice - I'll schedule an appt with the local dealer soon. btw, I recently discovered that the tires were overinflated by 6psi (thought the ride was a little "firm" - it's better now.)

terminalis

choken,

Sorry to hear about your problem. When you say "miss", do you mean hesitation and/or shudder?

That's caused by faulty lock-up. This problem has been discussed extensively in the past for Accord, and I believe you need a new torque converter.

I had the same problem as yours. First, torque converter was replaced, but didn't solved the problem. I had to replace the entire transmission. Now the problem is completely gone. Don't believe the dealer's word that it's within normal operating parameters. Honda is aware of this.

As far as I know, Honda now has the newest or special version of torque converter to solve this problem. I was told that if you bought your car recently, the newest version of TC-Tranny is installed. When was your car made? Good luck.

choken

The car was made in August of 1999. I was aware of the transmission problems prior to my purchase due to this board. Two of the V6s that we test drove had a perceptable shudder when shifting from 1st to 2nd. The one we bought did not. It still shifts flawlessly. I would characterize what I'm calling a miss as a hesitation (alibet a major one). It feels as if all six cylinders are laying down for a second. My wife just walked in and she thinks it's a shudder. Oh Well! It IS most noticable when the torque converter is locked up, with the engine under a light load, between 1750 and 2000 rpms. Does this sound like your symptoms? I do really appreciate your response.