Sounds like you made it better than it was if I am reading it right. I doubt you hurt anything although high revs on a cold engine is not the best thing in the world to do. The motors are pretty strong and don't damage easily. Warm it up and take it out for a drive, get it up to 4700 or so and see if you feel the vtec kick in. See if the power feels good and listen for noises. If all seems to be fine then great. If not then just bring it back in to the dealer and tell them that the engine don't seem right.Give them just enough info that they will look in the right area and let them do the rest.I have put many cars up to the rev limit before without any known damage so you should be ok.Good luck
I replaced the brushes, brush holder, and rubber insulator on my alternator and that did the trick - did not have to remove the alternator - phew!
Total cost $30 (could have gotten the parts for $22 from the dealership, but paid extortion prices at an electric shop that opened for me on Sunday so I could have the car ready for Monday - 6 dollars well spent in my opinion) . Saved $230 over getting a rebuilt alternator. Thanks for encouragement auburn63.
I had the same problem when my transmission was replaced. I worked around it as follows:
- After stopping, put the transmission in Park. - While it's in Park and without pressing the release button, pull the shift lever as far back as you can.
I found that this always worked for me. The dealer should be able to adjust the transmission lock to fix this, but hopefully this will help until you can make an appointment.
They will not be able to tell unless you set a code at the same time(check engine light on).Other than that there would really be no real proof only speculation.
Brushes Glad that worked out for you and you were able to do it in car. The Accords from like 90 and up are easy like that.Good job..
I'm new at this, so not sure I've even doing this right. But I have a 1999 Honda Accord 2dr coupe. The passenger door keeps sticking. I have taken it in to Honda 3 times already and they consider it a 'maintenance' issue. They have put lube on it, waxed the paint on the inside of the door and cleaned the rubber. Has anyone else had this happen?
Thanks alot for your response to my questions about the vent shut valve. I'll have it fixed next time I bring the car in for service. But I'll make sure they know exactly what's broken before they start replacing things. These guys seem to know what they're doing, so I'm not too worried.
I also want to let you know that I greatly appreciate the service you provide here in the Town Hall. You obviously are very sharp and seem to take great pride in the work you do. Honda is lucky to have you representing them.
That valve has become even more popular since my last post and there is also a service bulletin out for it also.The warranty period is still 3/36,000 but it may not hurt to put in a call to American Honda or ask to speak to the service rep from Honda. Just to see if they will help you out. They sometimes pay for the part if you pay for labor when things that are common to the car go bad early.
Also, thanks for the words. I like to try and keep people happy with their Hondas. Showing up here is cool because I don't get dirty.
Don't really see alot of them in my area but when we do we use Shin Etsu greese on the seals. It is long lasting and seems to work the best.If you have already tried that and you don't like it or it didn't work then maybe you need to loosen up the door adjustment a tad.Maybe it is in too tight.
I think the part is in the $100.00 - $150.00 range.As far as the labor it could range from 1.0 to 2.0 hours so depending on what the shops in your area get per hour.
After much research and many trips to various dealers. I think that Accord VP is the one. I do not mind the smaller non Vtech engine, smaller tires and manual windows. The best I have done was 15.700 with side air bags + TTL. I love the way this car looks and cannot believe that Honda can make it so cheap. My question is: What is the reputation of the non vtech engine???? I was told that it is the engine from the last generation Accord. Is it true. What kind of reliability can I expect from this engine? Or should I spend 2 grand more and get bare bone LX? Is there somebody with real experience with the VP? I would really appreciate the input. Thanx Saxon
Thanks for the advice on getting the vent shut valve fixed. The service guy at my dealer agreed to replace the fuel sending unit on my '98 Accord for free, even tho it is out of warranty, so maybe I can get them to do the same for the vent shut valve. I'll call American Honda if I can't talk my dealer into covering it.
Thanks Auburn63. I haven't heard of the grease you mentioned. Do you think it's a 'maintenance' issue that I should have to resolve myself...or Honda should?
Hi. I own a 98 Accord that I purchased used last year with 35,000 miles. I have also been plagued with the annoying hesitation problem. I have noticed lately that a strange popping noise has been coming from the left rear of the car (located by the gas tank). I hear this noise the first time it has been cranked for the day. It sounds like popcorn popping in my gas tank. Usually when I give it a little gas, the noise disappears. Any idea what could be causing this? Should I have it checked out?
I had a "Buzz Kit" installed in my 1995 Honda Accord LX about a year after I purchased the car new to silence a buzzing noise at 1800 rpms and also at cold startup. It was as per Honda Service Bulletin #A940056. It was a new flexible exhaust gasket that was installed before the cat/converter. Honda fixed it free of charge under the 3/36K bumper to bumper warranty. It is now 5 years later, and the car is making the same buzzing raking sound. Will Honda again repair this defect for free? The first "Buzz Kit" gave out after 5 years. Anyone else experience this problem?
I checked today and the part was only 54.00 so either it has been reduced in price or I was way off on the first thing I said.Sometimes once they put out bulletins on a failed part the price goes down also. I guess because they are selling alot of them.
I havent heard the noise you are talking about however you could be talking about the purge control valve or one of the other sensors in the evap system doing their first morning check.If not for sure have a Honda tech listen to it.
Buzz kit, You will probably find that the buzz kit repair will be covered by the 3 year 36,000 warranty and anything after that will be a charge. You could take off the gasket and coat it with never sieze compound and the noise will be gone for a while.
This vent shut valve isn't the same one I told you was ticking in my car, is it? It was located on the left front strut tower and also has to do with the purge control valve. I believe mine was the vacuum switching valve for the purge control valve.
My 99 EX Coupe has an occasional rattle related to the small speaker in the corner of the windshield on the drivers side. I can stop the noise by putting some pressure on the speaker.
I am hesitant to tear the whole dash out to get to it since I think they are more prone to rattle after they have been taken apart.
No this valve is under the car by the gas tank. Your valve is the purge control valve itself and next to it is the vacuum valve that operates the rear engine mount.
I have one of the older Accords with the engine you're asking about. It has 143,000 + miles on it and the only issue was the oil seal gasket that blew out (in my driveway fortunately) at 92,000 miles. Car still runs fine, doesn't burn any oil and gets 29 mpg on the highway.
Thank you for the info. I myself drive 1989 Honda civic with 159K and it runs fine. I need to get another car that will serve me for the same amunt of time/miles and Accord seems to fit my needs perfectly. I am so glad that Honda is making this car for so little $$$ and yet manages to produce such outstanding automobile. peopel are paying over 20K for basically the same body, so I figured that for around 5K less I could do the same. Thanx for the info. Saxon
I've had my 01 Accord EX since Jan. About two weeks after I got it the red SRS light came on and will not go off. And lately I've had problems with my in-dash disc changer. All of a sudden it will quit playing and it will flash "disc". I've reported these problems to my dealer and am taking the car in next week to get these things fixed. Has anyone else had problems with these two things?
I have a 2000 Honda V-6 Coupe and when I step on the brakes, the car pulls either left or right (you can feel the steering wanting to turn and stopping at red light, you can see steering wheel turn). It occurs at all levels of speeds (5 mpm to 70 mpm). I have had front end alignment, pressure in tires checked and nothing seems to help. I have taken it back numerous times to dealership and even had District Service Manager check it out but they can't duplicate the problem (though my passengers have noticed it). Has anyone ever experienced this or have any ideas. I'm schedule to go to dealership soon so that they can go through braking system with a fine tune comb to see if there is anything they can see. Thanks.
Does anyone know what the typical cost is to have a timing belt replaced?
I have a 97 Accord EX 5-Speed with the 2.2 4 cylinder VTEC and 70K highway miles. I've had most of the suggested routine maintenance as well as regular oil changes but haven't changed the timing belt yet. Any advice when it comes to the timing belt?
Have problem with the cooling fans. Sometimes they will stay on in cold weather when I shut off the car. I can make them stop by turning ignition key. One time it ran the battery down. help
my timing belt (96 ex, 5 spd) cost almost $700. however, i had my water pump replaced, because i heard over and over that it is smartest to do it then, since the labor is nonexistent. if i just got the belt replaced, the ranges of price were from $410-$500 (honda dealer was $430).
has anyone replaced a starter for a 96 ex??? how easy/difficult is it?
I have a '96 EX 4 cyl. and changed the water pump at the same time as the timing belt, as well. The local Honda dealer quoted $550; my mechanic charged $450, so it may depend on your local market prices.
I have a 2000 Accord EX 4DR which is due for its first scheduled maintenance.
The question is - Do I have this done at the Honda dealer ($90) or at a trusted local store ($35). The only difference is that the dealer will add an engine cleaner to the oil and fuel injector cleaner to the fuel. But are all these additives really needed? (FYI: My car clocked only 7500 miles in 18 months).
If I have the work done at a local shop, will they charge me extra to reset the maintenance required indictor?
AAAcckk!!! I just thumped bumpers with another car in the parking lot - no damage to his, but mine now has this funny light color to it on and around the area of impact. It almost looks like the plastic is a shade lighter in a 10 inch cirlce around the right rear corner. It's not dramatic, but since it is Brand New and my first new car ever, I'm heartsick. Did I permanently screw up my bumper's appearance, or is there a solution to this? Thanks in advance (and sorry if someone has posted this question recently)
I have noticed the new Accords have cheaper looking exhausts systems than for example the 5th generations. Even your top of the line EX V-6 Accords have a chip prone exhaust where the black paint chips off in hunks. The transmission failure rate on V-6 Accords is also quite alarming. One thing I could never understand is why the Honda Accord's engine isn't a DOHC like the Toyota Camry's.
Have you got some concrete figures on the tranny or just going by postings on boards like these? I'd be interested in seeing them. Could help me decide if I should go for the extended warranty before my manufacture's warranty expires. Thanks.
Go to the service desk at your local Honda dealership and ask the service writer if you can see the directive on the V-6 Accord 1998-2001 transmission issued by Honda. That should answer your question. Also go to http://www.Honda-Acura.net and run a search on Accord V-6 transmissions. You will be alarmed at all the problems. In addition, look at the exhausts of any EX-V-6 in any parking lot and notice the chunks of black that have chipped off of the transmission. If you are buying a V-6 Honda, buy the Honda extended warranty before the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expires. Remember, the power train warranty on Accords is only 36K as compared to Camrys at 50K.
Go to the service desk at your local Honda dealership and ask the service writer if you can see the directive on the V-6 Accord 1998-2001 transmission issued by Honda. That should answer your question. Also go to http://www.Honda-Acura.net and run a search on Accord V-6 transmissions. You will be alarmed at all the problems. In addition, look at the exhausts of any EX-V-6 in any parking lot and notice the chunks of black that have chipped off of the transmission. If you are buying a V-6 Honda, buy the Honda extended warranty before the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expires. Remember, the power train warranty on Accords is only 36K as compared to Camrys at 50K.
I know there have been a few tranmission problems in the past but not a large percentage. I have not yet seen any late 00 or 01's have the problems at all.However I think extended warranties that go up to 100,000 are a good idea with any car.
My car was made in 8/99 and I do remember a guy who had the same manufacturing date and had to have his tranny replaced. I haven't had any of the problems most often discussed here, but I guess I will start budgeting for the ESP anyway.
The Michelin Energy Plus tires on my 2.3 liter 98 Accord LX are shot at 35K (H speed rating). The same tire currently sells for about $120 per tire. Therefore, cosidering the cost per tire and the short tread life of the Michelin, I am considering replacment tires that are T rated (one rating below H). Has anyone replaced the OEM Michelin's with a T rated tire? If so, is there a noticable change in performance? I should add that the car is used for daily commuting only and is not driven hard. Please provide your thoughts and any specific tire recommendations. Thanks for your help.
I was careless enough to get some minor parking lot scratches on the front bumper of our Black Accord. The scratches are really minor and I could touch them up myself. However, I am not very confident of doing a good job and dont want to do any long term damage. I visited a body shop and got an estimate for $500 !! They told me that the entire bumper needs to be repainted to ensure that the touch-up is perfect !! Any Tips / Advice will be greatly appreciated.
Do you know what dc-sports is talking about when he refers to a 'directive' from Honda concerning the tranny's? I would imagine Honda would be reluctant to provide this info to a v6 owner since it could invite tranny complaints(either real or imagined). What do you say?
Spaceinvader - An accord 4cyl will do fine with T tires. In fact you may find it quieter and smoother with non mich tires. I put Toyo 800 Ultra on my 93 Legend. They are touring tires with high tread life. I was able to get them for about $80 each.
As I mentioned, Honda sent a service bulletin out to all Honda Dealerships regarding the transmissions failures in V-6 Accords as well in their V-6 mini-vans. The Honda Service Bulletin is SB614081. You can also verify this information by going to a Honda dealership or by going to NHSTA's web site. Unfortunately, the only known cure as indicated in the bulletin is to replace the transmission with a re manufactured one.
What causes late 80's and early 90's Honda Accords to shake and rumble at idle? I have been told its broken or worn out motor mounts. But, when I replace the mounts it doesn't fix the problem. Any thoughts?
Don't feel bad about the rough idle. My 1995 Honda Accord LX has a rough idle since purchased new. During the cold winter months, it is more pronounced and takes at least two hours of driving for it to disappear in temperatures below 30 degrees. Ironically, in the summer months, the idle is as quiet as my 1999 Toyota Camry's.
Comments
Total cost $30 (could have gotten the parts for $22 from the dealership, but paid extortion prices at an electric shop that opened for me on Sunday so I could have the car ready for Monday - 6 dollars well spent in my opinion) . Saved $230 over getting a rebuilt alternator. Thanks for encouragement auburn63.
- After stopping, put the transmission in Park.
- While it's in Park and without pressing the release button, pull the shift lever as far back as you can.
I found that this always worked for me. The dealer should be able to adjust the transmission lock to fix this, but hopefully this will help until you can make an appointment.
Brushes
Glad that worked out for you and you were able to do it in car. The Accords from like 90 and up are easy like that.Good job..
time I bring the car in for service. But I'll make sure they know exactly what's broken before
they start replacing things. These guys seem to know what they're doing, so I'm not too
worried.
I also want to let you know that I greatly appreciate the service you provide here in the Town
Hall. You obviously are very sharp and seem to take great pride in the work you do. Honda is
lucky to have you representing them.
joefriday
Also, thanks for the words. I like to try and keep people happy with their Hondas. Showing up here is cool because I don't get dirty.
What is the reputation of the non vtech engine????
I was told that it is the engine from the last generation Accord. Is it true. What kind of reliability can I expect from this engine?
Or should I spend 2 grand more and get bare bone LX? Is there somebody with real experience with the VP? I would really appreciate the input. Thanx
Saxon
joefriday
I have noticed lately that a strange popping noise has been coming from the left rear of the car (located by the gas tank). I hear this noise the first time it has been cranked for the day. It sounds like popcorn popping in my gas tank. Usually when I give it a little gas, the noise disappears. Any idea what could be causing this? Should I have it checked out?
I havent heard the noise you are talking about however you could be talking about the purge control valve or one of the other sensors in the evap system doing their first morning check.If not for sure have a Honda tech listen to it.
Buzz kit,
You will probably find that the buzz kit repair will be covered by the 3 year 36,000 warranty and anything after that will be a charge. You could take off the gasket and coat it with never sieze compound and the noise will be gone for a while.
I am hesitant to tear the whole dash out to get to it since I think they are more prone to rattle after they have been taken apart.
Any suggestions???
I have a 97 Accord EX 5-Speed with the 2.2 4 cylinder VTEC and 70K highway miles. I've had most of the suggested routine maintenance as well as regular oil changes but haven't changed the timing belt yet. Any advice when it comes to the timing belt?
will stay on in cold weather when I shut off the car. I can make them stop by turning ignition key.
One time it ran the battery down. help
however, i had my water pump replaced, because
i heard over and over that it is smartest to do
it then, since the labor is nonexistent. if i
just got the belt replaced, the ranges of price
were from $410-$500 (honda dealer was $430).
has anyone replaced a starter for a 96 ex???
how easy/difficult is it?
I have a 2000 Accord EX 4DR which is due for its first scheduled maintenance.
The question is - Do I have this done at the Honda dealer ($90) or at a trusted local store ($35). The only difference is that the dealer will add an engine cleaner to the oil and fuel injector cleaner to the fuel. But are all these additives really needed? (FYI: My car clocked only 7500 miles in 18 months).
If I have the work done at a local shop, will they charge me extra to reset the maintenance required indictor?
Thanks in advance for all your answers.
I just thumped bumpers with another car in the parking lot - no damage to his, but mine now has this funny light color to it on and around the area of impact. It almost looks like the plastic is a shade lighter in a 10 inch cirlce around the right rear corner. It's not dramatic, but since it is Brand New and my first new car ever, I'm heartsick.
Did I permanently screw up my bumper's appearance, or is there a solution to this?
Thanks in advance (and sorry if someone has posted this question recently)
a 96 ex? how easy/difficult is it?
The scratches are really minor and I could touch them up myself. However, I am not very confident of doing a good job and dont want to do any long term damage.
I visited a body shop and got an estimate for $500 !! They told me that the entire bumper needs to be repainted to ensure that the touch-up is perfect !!
Any Tips / Advice will be greatly appreciated.
http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_lines/broad/800.html