Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

lancerfixer

I didn't have much choice at the time; I had just left college and hadn't found full time work, but both brakes and exhaust were getting really bad.

myers11

Hi all,

1995 Accord EX VTEC 4, 139,000miles.

I have diagnosed that an acceleration problem I have is a bad EGR valve. I have it disconnected and it runs fine. The Check Engine light finally came on.

My question is this. What would it hurt to just leave the EGR disconnected? Honestly. I really don't want to spend another $175 just for the part. That is the dealer price. Can't get it from another source here.

I disconnected the vacuum hose and capped the EGR nipple. The car runs fine. Should I just leave it this way? I have replaced the timing belt, and had a major tune-up in the last 4 months. I am tired of dumping money in this thing.

Thanks.

Chris

teo

Fellow Honda Accord owners:

My sister currently owns a 1999 Honda Accord LX sedan 4-speed auto. The car currently has a chronic problem of front brake pad premature wear. The first time she had to have her Honda dealer change the pads was at 16K miles back in October 2000. Almost 9 months and 7,000 miles later, her front pads are completely worn out again!. She took the car back last week and the tech confirmed that the front pads were gone again! She had them resurface the rotors and replace the pads for another $150.00. Her service advisor told her that current generation Honda Accords and Oddessey Minivans are NOTORIOUS for premature wear of the front brakes....(I can relate to this as I had similar brake problems on my 1997 Acura 2.5TL). Needless to say, my sister is extremely dissapointed at the quality of the current Honda Accord. She has had 4 Accords before her current one and the '99 has been so far the most 'problematic' of them all. Also last week her engine's oxygen sensor had to be replaced under warranty as well. The car has been babied, Honda serviced only, since she bought it in Jan of '99. And no, she doesn't drive with her foot on the brake pedal, carry heavy weights or tow a trailer with her car.

Has other current generation Honda Accord owners experienced these nagging problems???

My sisters next car will probably be a Toyota.

What's up with the all 'almighty' Honda quality???

jrct9454

I drove a '98 Accord LX 4 with automatic for 17,000 miles, with pads that looked like they would go for 60k miles at least. Our '01 V6 has 4,000 miles on it with no discernible wear of the front pads AT ALL. We use these cars in normal suburban driving, with 5 miles stretches near our house with 45 mph speed limits and lights every half-mile, before we can get to the freeway. I would call it 50% city and 50% highway use.

I strongly disagree that these cars have endemic problems with pad life. Something is very wrong with your sister's experience. And, we have had no failures of any kind [nothing but routine oil changes] with either car. That doesn't help you, but it suggests your experience might not be average, either.

auburn63

EGR,
If your problem that you are having is a miss fire or studder around 1800 rpm's on light accel then you problem may be the EGR ports in the manifold. We see more of these than we do bad valves.There is a mostly labor procedure to clean them out.

Brakes,
We see most fronts lasting from 30k-60k and rear pads from 25k-45, rear shoes seem to last forever.However most of the time it comes down to the driver and there braking habbits. I have replaced fronts at 15k(rare but I have)but I have also replaced a first set of fronts pads at 90k so as you can see there can be a big differance in drivers.

myers11

So, is this just a matter of removing the EGR valve and cleaning the surface that meets the manifold? Then putting it back with a new gasket? Or is there a more detailed procedure you are talking about?

I can do the EGR removal and clean it no problem.

Thanks.

carguy62

You should be able to purchase that part from one of many on-line parts suppliers. Should be significantly less than what the dealer quoted.

robr2

I have a 98 EX-L 4 and auto and replaced the rear pads at 30K. I did have the front rotors replaced at 15K under warranty and the dealer said they put the original pads back in.

I just had it in for 37,500 and they said the brakes look great.

How come the rear pads wear out so much faster? I will admit, I was spoiled. My 91 EX 5sp required new front pads at 112K and I never touched the rears. I realize the auto will probably use pads more often, but this fast on the rears?

jrct9454

For reasons known only to the designers, the rear pads are a fraction of the thickness of the fronts. I suppose this is an attempt to equalize wear, since the fronts have to work so much harder, but the effect in the field seems to make the rears go away even faster than the fronts. Shows this can still be as much art as science...

angeloudasou

Hi everyone,

First time Honda owner. I bought the 2001 Accord V6 fully loaded on April 30 with the leather (put 1300 miles on it so far). I had the car in the dealership this weekend to check the compressor on the air conditioned, and everything was A k. I love the car, but today I noticed that the side air bag indicator was turning on and off in the morning. Has anyone had this happen to them? Also, my sun roof seems to be rattling anyone have this happen to them too?

Thanks in advance for your input guys.

Angelouda

mdames

Was anyone sitting in the passenger seat when the light was going off and on? If so, they were probably sitting sideways or leaning to far forward. If the front passenger doesn't sit in the seat properly, the light will go on, indicating that they are not in the proper position for the side airbag to safely deploy. This happens to me whenever my daughter sits in the car with me. She tends to move around in the seat. The light then comes on.

comboy

If you have your briefcase in the passenger seat, that may cause the light to come on. The side air bags are disabled, I think, when the sensors detect a light object (like a small child) that could be injured by the side air bag.

auburn63

From 94-97 you have to remove the fuel injector rail to gain acces to the manifold plate under it. This plate covers the EGR ports and gets clogged up.Once the plate is of you need to clean it and the manifold as good as you can and punch clean the holes for each runner as they get clogged up.

auburn63

Brakes
The rears wear out as they do for differant reasons. One is as has been said is due to their thickness when they are new.They are about half as thick as the fronts and alot smaller in overall size. Others could be from emergency brake cables that are not fully releasing, sticky caliper pins or slides.30k is about normal for rear disc to be close enough for replacement but a little soon to be hitting the sensors and making noise. Most of the time brakes get replaced on the early side due to it being so hard to guess how long it will be before they hit the sensors or totaly wear out.

Airbag
If you have something on the passenger seat,something hanging of the backside or the seat gets wet the sensors can cause the light to go on. If the leather was installed by an outside company then the seat may need to be re-initialized into the system. Good luck

angeloudasou

mdames, you were right about having someone sitting sideways next to me. I hope that was the reason. I will try to observe if this happens while I am driving alone.

Thanks,
Ang

pjdonnelly

Just want to add my two cents to the discussion on Honda Accord brakes. Mine is a '95 EX 5-speed with 101,000 miles. I had the rear pads replaced at 73,800. I had it in the shop this past weekend for timing belt, etc., and had a brake check done at the same time. The front brakes still have about 50% wear left. They're the original pads. This some kind of record? I probably didn't even need a timing belt/water pump change, but I want to get at least 200,000 miles out of this car and thought it a good investment toward that end.

jrct9454

I believe there is a TSB out on quieting noises from the sunroof. See previous posts, or NHTSA website. Auburn, do you know offhand?

talon95

Angeloudasou,

I'm just about positive that a passenger was your 'problem'. My mother is about 4'10" tall and the side airbag light is constantly going on and off when she sits in the passenger seat. When just about anyone else sits there, the light stays off.

teo

Reagrding the brake issues on my sister's '99 Accord LX. I'll keep everyone posted on the performance of the new pads. We have also opened a file with American Honda with the premature brake wear problems this car has had. New brake pads every 7K miles is simply not normal.

spokane

If the owner of the '99 Accord has owned several previous Hondas and experienced normal (30,000+mile) brake life on those cars, she has convincing evidence that her driving habits are not the cause of the 7000-mile brake pad life. Some mechanical defect clearly exists. A defective caliper is often the culprit but if both sets of front pads are wearing excessively, I would look to the master cylinder, the brake proportioning valve, and even the hydraulic tubing. The dealer would be correct in pointing out that brake pads are not warranty-replacement items. However, you have strong evidence that the pad wear is a symptom of a deeper problem and it's that underlying problem (probably in the hydraulic system) that must be corrected. The defective component(s) are almost surely covered by the warranty. I suggest that you carefully document details of what has taken place to date and use the written documentation, including the driver's past brake-wear experience, to focus the service manager's attention on the problem. If necessary, remind him that this is a safety issue and let him see that your documentation could serve as an effective letter to the zone management. Please let us know what you find out.

sflora

I'm going in next week for my first 30K service on my 2000 Accord. Dealer seems to follow the recommendations in the manual except that they also replace the differential fluid, brake fluid, and the valve cover gasket and seals. Any comments on the necessity for these extras? How about changing the coolant - every 30K? 45K?

jrct9454

The first two items are marginal, though at 30k miles [lots of driving, eh?] the brake fluid replacement is not a bad idea. However the valve cover gasket is completely over the top...there is no reason to pull the valve cover unless you are experiencing valve noise, so this is just an attempt on their part to make money at your expense. Coolant is another marginal item, but again, at 30k miles, not a bad idea.

LOOK IN THE BOOK. Use the maintenance schedule in the manual as as guide...you'll find which of these items are within a reasonable envelope, and which are just silly. Of the things you have listed, the valve cover gasket falls in the silly bucket...most of the rest I would describe as "not unreasonable".

snowman

That must be the biggest rip off. I have never heard it before. Unless valve cover leaks oil there is no need to get it done.

jposter

I have been going nuts over a humming / wind sound which I thought was coming from the sunroof seal. The noise only happened at highway speeds (over 60mph) and was especially bad when it was windy outside.

Actually the sound was coming from the rubber seal around the front windshield, not the sunroof. There is actually a TSB on this. I was at the dealer today, they told me this is common on only the 2001 Accords for some reason. The dealer had a glass company come replace the rubber seal with one which was thicker--the sound is gone!

teknogeek9

That is something that you can look for and listen for. If you don't see any evidence of oil leaking or if your valves aren't playing a drum solo, I wouldn't recommend this service.

Unless you are going for a brake job, leave the brake fluid alone except to top it off. The differential fluid is a different story. There is no way of determining the condition of that until you actually get to it. Since you are halfway there, you might as well do it. That shouldn't cost more than $20 to replace.

As for the coolant, have it checked with a hydrometer first. If it needs to be replaced, go for the flush job which will remove some of the deposits that build up inside the engine and radiator.

joannek

I have a Honda Accord '95 and my fuel gauge is completely unreliable at this point. My husband had a '88 Civic and the fuel gauge broke on that too at about 7 years old. The gauge will either read about a quarter of a tank lower or no reading at all. Looks like it might be a trend.

anselmo1

Honda has had trouble with their supplier regarding their fuel sending units. I have had mine replaced on my 1995 Accord three times under warranty. (I bought the extended warranty through Honda). The newer Accords have even a bigger problem with the unit that effects the gas gauge. All that I can tell you is my Honda dealership has a huge supply of replacement units in their parts department.

sflora

...for the advice, folks. I'm guessing the reason they replace the valve gasket and seals is because they do a valve test as part of the service? In any event, it does seem excessive at 30K. Although not as bad as the dealer that wanted to change my platinum spark plugs at 15K!

patnams

Gurus,

I just got my front pads on Accord 98 46k by a Dealer. Fluid Flush $75, Rotor Job $145 and break pads $55.

1. What is the cost comparison for Rotor Job v/s Rotor Replacement, which one is advisable.

2. How do the prices compare for the jobs I got
done, are they normal ?

Thanks
Sridhar

hai_from_va

Salute all Accord folks!
I just found this site and been reading a lot of your messages. Thanks for all wonderful info and experiences you posted here!
Anyway, I have an Accord 2000 SE with 11000 miles on it. The malfunction indicator light has been on since yesterday. I have scheduled with a dealer to take a look at it. Talked to tech quickly about the cause. they told me that 90% is the fuel cap problem. Manual states that if fuel caps loose will have to take 3 trips to clear it. It is true that I had just filled my gas the day before the light got on. But I didnot find the cap loose at all.
I just wonder anybody here has accord se 2000 and experienced the same problem.
Will let you know what the dealer find out about this problem when I bring it in next week.
BTW, how do you make a search on this discussion thread ? Manually browsing all the messages to look for related problem is almost impossible and painful.

phelpsg

Thanks for the message on the wind noise. My 2001 Accord V6 just purchased in April is doing the
same thing but it's most noticable around 50mph.
It's driving me crazy because it doesn't do it all the time. At night or if it's humid outside, it doesn't do it. Also, if I fold in the right side mirror, it's not as loud. I'm taking it back to the dealer next week.

macho3

I have a 97 accord v-6 that is loosing antifreeze,I brought it to the honda dealer and they could not find nothing wrong with it!but it must be going somewhere!!!!any ideas

sukang

I bought Accord EX V6 2001.
The Moon roof height need fine alignment because of the passenger side is slightly higher than drive side. Can anybody inform me that how diffcault to alignment be done. Is it simple adjustment be done by Car owner? other than turn Car in to the dealer for all day that adjustment be performed?.
Everyone's helpful information will be appreciated.

snowman

Your water pump might have small leak and antifreeze might be getting vaporized simply when it contacts. Just a guess. It happened to me with my 91 LX.

hai_from_va

The problem was the fuel cap as expected. The dealer had to use their computer to clear the light.
I swear to myself I will make sure to tight the cap more than 3 clicks from now on.

fritz1224

And don't leave the car running when you fill up. Same thing will happen.

pblevine

Actually, the damn light was correct and trying to tell you something. The only trouble is that such a simple device cannot easily tell you what and where the problem is. Maybe its a way of forceing you back to the dealership. Ah, an engineering feature!

drobertson1

Thanks for the note on windnoise (#1126). I have a '01 Accord LX 5spd. On a windy day at highway speed there is a whistling sound coming from the top of the windshield (although locating the exact place where the sound is coming from is difficult). Has anyone else had the problem? The glass people placed a bead of sealant along the top inside of the windshield hoping to seal any pin-hole sized gaps. Next suggestion is that they would lift the windshield and re-seal the whole thing. The first option hasn't worked. I'm curious about replacing the outside rubber seal. I will ask my dealer to check for the same service bulletin. Let me know what you folks have experienced. Other than that, a fine little car, comfortable, efficient, peppy...

jmmctighe

Need help....90 accord ex, 160k. ran fine until engine light came on. Engine light went off after restart but now at a stop, the rpms drop from 650 to 100-200 then go back to 4-450.
Engine seemed to have lost some punch on occation before that. did a complete tune-up 3 weeks prior, no code on the ecm! i think it might be the idle air control (IAC) on the FI.
Any ideas?

alcan

Check all the intake ducting for cracks or other damage that may allow air leaks. Also, go here for Honda trouble code retrieval. Btw, disregard the OBD-II code information. It does not apply to your vehicle:

http://www.batauto.com/honda.html

madjio

Bonjour,

I have a little problem with my 96 Honda Accord LX (127,000miles). It's burning too much oil! The problem related to the oil leak, at the front of the engine caused by the dislodged seal on the front balancer shaft has been supposedly fixed.
There was no charge for that (merci NHSTA for pointing that to the Honda folks!).
Anyhow I still believe that the problem that I am having is still related to that, but my dealer tells me now that it might be a coil. This would require according to them a half-engine overhaul ($800 + the part if it's indeed the cause!).
I believe that this is a manufacturing defect, and Honda Co. should pay for it
My 87 Chevy Nova doesn't burn that much oil! C'est fou.
Let's all buy Chevy Novas!
Thanks for any suggestion, comment or opinion.

anselmo1

Sounds as if they done the work wrong when replacing your blown balancer shaft seal. Hope they replaced your water pump and timing belt at the same time. You are right, you shouldn't be burning that much oil. I would probably take it to another Honda dealership or Honda certified mechanic.

carguy62

I have an '89 Accord LX-i. About 15 months ago one of the cv boots was replaced as it was torn. Now I am hearing noise when turning which leads me to believe there is a problem with the drivetrain. Assuming I have to fix the entire system what am I actually replacing. Axle?, drive shaft? Any idea on cost? Obviously I'm not too well versed so I would like a little knowledge before I turn my wallet over to the dealer. Any info on the system will be appreciated. Thank you.

robr2

I'm no expert but had a clicking noise in my front end when turning on a 91 Accord I had. Of, course a CV boot was torn and had to be replaced. I was quoted a price (don't remember now) and was advised to replace the axle at the same time since it was probably damaged by whatever the torn boot was letting in. To do the axle was a small amount and labor was almost nothing extra. Essentially, they were opening it up and might as well do it.

Try to find a good Honda mechanic - dealer would not be the place to take a 12 YO car IMHO.

Luckily ??? - car was totaled in an accident before I had the work done.

auburn63

If you are hearing a clicking sound on turns then most likely you have a bad outer cv joint. Some places replace the entire axle shaft and some replace only the outer joint so prices vary a bit.Plus aftermarket parts are cheaper than factory parts which can affect the cost comparission but factory parts are better.My thoughts would be to see if the place you had your boot replaced at could help you out at all with somekind of a discount. If the boots are still intact and not leaking then that would mean that some damage had already started back when they were torn. If they didn't make you aware of this then maybe they will give you something off the cost. Good luck

chris194

I have a '94 accord (automatic) EX with 113000 miles. The car has been great and reliable, with minimal unexpected maintenance. I have had all of the suggested maintenance performed, use Moil 1, honda filters and change the oil at about 3500- 4000 miles. I know, conservative, but I figure that it is a relatively low cost way to ensure long life. Only use Chevron gas. (no I don't work for them, it just seems to work best on all of my cars). For the past 10,000 miles, the mileage has dropped to about 20 city, 24 highway as opposed to about 24-25 city & about 26-32 highway. I just had the 120000 mile service performed early as the dealer suggested this would resolve the mileage concern. It did not affect it. Any other ideas? The car also seems to be a little less peppy than it used to be. Could it be the O2 sensor?

mwcarlso

I have a 93 Honda Accord EX with 138,000 miles on it. I will soon be changing the timing belt and water pump and I was wondering if I should be concerned about having anything done with this oil seal. I know there was a problem on the 94-97 4-cylinder Accords but does it also include 90-93 Accords? I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing the timing belt and then have the seal fail and possibly ruin the engine. Thanks for any help.

phelpsg

Make sure you refer to the TSB #00097 when talking to the Honda dealer. The TSB summary but not the full details can be found on the NHTSA web site. The fix is not accomplished by re-sealing the windshield itself because it's not leaking. Instead, a bead of sealer is placed under the back edge of the flat rubber molding that runs around the windshield on the car. Air is somehow getting under that molding and it's like blowing through a reed. The sealant will in effect glue down that molding.

auburn63

Chris,
The O2 sensor could be a source of your problem but so could several other things.Without being able to drive the car it would be hard to say what could be your problem. Most of the time a failing O2 will cause a check engine light. Engine timing, valve adjustment and fuel injectors are just a few areas where I would start to look at. Tire presure and condition is another when it comes to fuel economy concerns.Somewhere around 32-35 psi is a good all around setting for comfort and economy for most areas of the country.Good luck

mwcarlso
The seals do blow out on your year but not as often as they do in the 94-97. The only thing you need to do is ask, if your seal is leaking to have it replaced and install a seal holder on it.If it is not leaking then you can just install a seal holder and you will be sure it will not blow out. (The seal holder is a metal bracket that holds the seal in).This does not mena that the seal can not form a leak it just means that it will not fall out like the 94-97.I think it is a good idea to replace the cam seal and the balancer seal at timing belt intervals. The crank seal has a metal backing and hardly ever goes bad but could also be replaced at that time if you choose.

dash400m

My brother has a '96 Accord. The problem is poor radio reception on the "AM" frequency spectrum (530-1700 kHz). Nothing new -- most car radios today have this problem.

Question: Do you know of any after market radio that offers quality AM reception? I'd appreciate any references that you might have.

BTW: My '85 Civic Wagon (1.5L, Jasper reman engine) is running great. The engine cranking 75hp and running real smooth at 65mph (3300-3500 rpm) with the 3-speed automatic. I'm putting the car into the shop soon for a custom paint job. After that, it'll be showroom quality at 250,000 miles.

Thanks for any information that you might be able to provide on the radio.

j.w.