I have a ticking(clicking) sound also. It is very audible when I put my ear down by the transmission on the left side of the engine compartment. I was told it is the purge control valve. Try manually giving it some gas by moving the throttle linkage and see if you hear a kind of suction sound and the ticking stops for a few minutes. If so, it may be the vacuum switching valve for the purge control valve. According to the Honda tech who diagnosed my ticking, this is normal.
More clarification. Look at the outside mirror in front of it. i.e. in front of the drivers door and engine. Now collapse the mirror to the inside towards the window. The seam I'm talking about is where the outside mirror housing pivots with the actual mirror. Now snap the mirror back to regular position. You should see a a very small horizontal seam/gap between the mirror housing and the actual mirror(about 1/4 inch vertical and 2 1/2 inches horizontal. hats where I but the electrical tape over the horizontal seam. It took care of my wind noise, that's all I know. I assumed it was air rushing through this small gap that was making the wind whistle.
Can't believe my eyes -- we have a new 2001 EXL 4cyl with just 560 miles. Just noticed tonight we have a check engine light that stays on -- NO-- it is not the gas cap. Owners man. says it has to do with polution controls. Anyone else with a newer one of these -- had anything like this happen? -- Dealer will get a call first thing tomorrow-- Good grief -- I hope this is not an indicator of more problems -- Hell -- we have not even made the first payment!!!-- its only 2 weeks old!!
Understand, that if the gas cap was the source of the problem, EVEN AFTER IT HAS BEEN PROPERLY TIGHTENED, THE LIGHT WILL NOT GO OFF IMMEDIATELY. It takes a fixed number of engine starts [I believe it is six, but I'm not sure] before the OBD trap will be reset by the computer, and the light will go out. Of course, it could be something else, which is why the trip to the dealer is a good idea - but don't be surprised if the cap is indeed the source of the problem.
The federal rules on OBD sensitivity have been a huge issue for the car makers, especially Toyota, who actually went to court over this. Small or even non-existent problems are driving both owners and dealers nuts...don't assume anything about long term reliability over this situation.
i've heard people talk about, i think it's called, "dynomat." supposed to be wonderful for that kind of thing. i'm sure there are people here who've used it or the like.. maybe even adg44 has some input.
My 2000 accord V6 has the side air bag light go on intermittly. Called the dealer and they said its normal because of the passengers seat sensor due to weight shifting on the passengers side seat. Sounds like a bunch of [non-permissible content removed] to me. I dot believe that Honda would make a car and expect hats normal. Does anyone else have this problem or have a solution for me...
I did add Dynamat like stuff on my '96 Accord EX. While the installed was adding the insulation, they also sealed all holes too. Did I notice the difference in noise level? Yes definitely. Accord is not a very quiet car. However, after the treatment the car became noticeable quieter. But the biggest difference is the boost in mid-bass after sealing all holes and cavities. Music sounds a lot fuller and more balanced. Another benefit is that there is no rattle or buzz even when 150 watts are applied to each speakers in the doors. The installed charged about $200 for sealing the two front doors.
Hi everyone I am responding to a couple of messages posted earlier[around the #1230..] I do to have windnoise from my mirror it is not that bad though i dont even notice it anymore. Also I have the same thing happened to me today for the first time with the sideairbag lamp coming on shortly [978miles on my new 2001ex-v6 as of today],it came on today for a few seconds while i was sitting in my car in park with engine running waiting for the rain to stop...what wonders me about it is that when I am sitting down in the driver's seat im always getting this clicking noise from about where the sideairbag is located in the seat...also when im putting weight with my shoulder while sitting to the location where the sideairbag is Im also getting that clicking noise[always clicks once]aaaaaannnoying Finally has anyone ever noticed if it gets wet inside the car where the sunroof closes into the roof after it rains.....i noticed that i had some moisture in the crack between the roof and the part where the sunroof rests on when closed thankfully it doesnt get inside the cabin anywhere where it could hurt fabric [yet?]. there is a barrier to keep anything to get into the car and get the inside wet but i still dont like this............none of my previous cars'sunroofs have ever had let any water through before. please if anyone could let me know if they ever had noticed anything like that????????? I will bring this to the dealers attention next week and post whatever i might find out then. thanks everyone. PS i do have confidence in honda since i owned honda's before but this does bother me quite a bit.
Forgive me if I am wrong, but I recall reading somewhere recently that there are sensors in the seats designed to detect what may be the head of a sleeping child/passenger. The light is to warn the driver to that.
One the the drawbacks of side air bags is that if the passenger (hopefully not the driver) are asleep and their heads are leaning towards the bag, there is the potential for injury from a side airbag.
Hi there, Does someone have any idea why my low fuel indicator came on when there was still one fifth of gas left indicated by the fuel gauge? I refueled the tank to full with roughly 13.5 gallons of gas. Shouldn't the fuel tank of Accord hold 17 gallons? It happened every time around the 13.5 mark. My car is a 2001 Accord EX with only 700 miles on it. Is it a malfunction of the low fuel indicator or it is supposed to be like this? Anyone has similar experience? If this is a malfunction, can it be corrected somehow? Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.
Suggest you stop worrying, and just enjoy the car. Our last two Accords always start to chase you in with the fuel light with at least 3-4 gallons left...most of our German cars [MB in particular] have done pretty much the same thing.
There is a reason: running out of fuel in one of these cars is very hard on the catalysts, and can cause problems elsewhere in the fuel system, as well.
And one last observation: fuel gauges are notoriously inaccurate, across the entire spectrum of the automotive world. There seems to be some expectation out there that nominal fuel capacity [which is just that: NOMINAL] will somehow translate into a nice linear movement of the fuel pointer. WRONG. Tank shape, float design and placement in the tank, number and position of tank baffles, and other variables mean the gauge will never be accurate except at absolute empty...the one reading you don't want to see. The rest of the time, it is an approximation, and a rough one at that. Never use it as an indication of anything else.
Are not a precision instrument. Perhaps they should be deadly accurate but they are not.
When the low fuel light on my 99 EX V-6 coupe comes on, there is still something like four gallons of gas left...a lot.
On the other hand, we once owned a Buick that had a low fuel light that only came on when we were running on fumes. When it came on, it meant business! Found out the hard way.
That sounds reasonable enough when comparing fuel gauge performances across all makes and models. But, within the same make, model and year the fuel gauge characteristics should be the same(since all the factors you mentioned will be the same). Yet that does not seem to be the case with the accords(and even the civics from what I've been reading). The replacement fuel gauge in my v6 accord is showing a completely different calibration than the original. Now, 1/2 tank means I've used @9 gals(actual half tank should be @ 8.56, so pretty accurate in my estimation). The original, at half tank meant I had used @7 gals, almost 20% off. Why is that, since all parameters have remained unchanged? Because the original was bad. Pure and simple. I have yet to run it to E, but the original had @ 3 gals left when the light came on. I won't run it to E just to be safe but will refuel @ 1/4 tank for the next accuracy evaluation. After that I'll have a pretty good idea of what exactly E is, but I'm pretty sure it won't be as much as 3 gals(like the first one). By the way, I was able to rationalize why the first one performed the way it did, but after reading many other posts about this problem I decided to let the dealer know and he immediatley replaced the FSU without any attempt to convince me that this was "normal" or that maybe it was just in my head. That should tell something to all the people who get the "it's normal" response when they have problems they don't think should be there.
dwillia4: LOL, and tekno is right, a car wash veteran.
Ever since Honda replaced my 'Fuel Sending Unit', my gas gauge has been more or less accurate. Besides, I now use the "B" trip mileage indicator on my tripmeter to record how many miles I've gone since the last fuel fillup. At 750 miles, I know to fill it up again. Hehe, only kidding. I actually do that but I get the gas station iche at about 275-300.
-They often change suppliers in mid-production, which can change the equation [a new supplier of FSUs, a new float design, etc.]
-I've NEVER had two cars of the same make and model [and we have been in that situation more times than most people] with fuel gauges that read exactly the same way...period. We've had two same-generation Accords in the garage at once, and twice have had two same-generation Camrys at the same time...fuel gauges all behave differently.
Look, I'm not saying yours didn't have a problem - I am saying that there is a lot of worry on this topic out here in Forum-Land that I think is misplaced. There was even a long [I mean very long] thread in one of the Toyota topics on this very issue, with people insisting that half a tank should by-god-be 8.645 gallons, etc. In some other universe, maybe...
The biggest variable of all is that, short of filling it to overflowing each time [which is bad for the recirc system, and bad for the atmosphere], you can't consistently get the same amount into a so-called "full tank" each time, anyway, no matter how hard you try. I think it just makes more sense to use the odometer as your primary indicator, and the fuel meter as a stopgap safety measure...I think of it as being there basically to keep you from running completely dry, and for nothing else.
my accord is 98 coupe ex. the problem is i cannot play a cd that was burned from any computer in the cd player. i have come across another friend who owns accord with same problem. does anyone know how this can be fixed?
Are you trying to play a CD-R or a CD-RW? RWs present a problem as they're written onto the disc in a different manner...make sure you "close" the CD when you're finished recording it.
...in ours. But forget about using CD-RW...they won't read. CD-R disks are so cheap these days that there isn't much reason to use RWs, except for computer backups, etc.
I have a 99 EX Coupe - 4Cylinder with about 28K miles. I have noticed that sometimes when I go in reverse, my engine or transmission kicks and the car jumps for that second and then is fine.
Would appreciate any input. I own a 2000 Accord EX V6 sedan with 14000 miles and am going bonkers with a rattle coming from the right air vent that can only be stopped when the louvers are squeezed/pinched together. The dealer replaced the entire vent unit but the problem still persists. Would anyone who has had a similar problem, and cure thereto, kindly respond to this post.
Our new (670 miles) ExL 4cyl auto got just a touch over 20 mpg on its second tankful. We could not get an accurate reading on the first tank as we did not set the trip meter. This was on mostly city (a hilly city with lots of stop signs and lights) driving. Is this normal for a new 4cyl auto honda engine? I was sort of expecting better -- especially since my wife drives this car, and she is extremely light footed an easy on cars (our 90 aura integral went 85000 without any brake work needed).
AS The problem I asked about last week --The check engine light-- was reset by the dealer -- and they could not figure out what set it off. Service mar said honda was setting the computers "too sensitive" for this particular sensor (the one that senses a gas cap left off or a hole in the tank)
...will be meaningless until you have at least 4-5000 miles on the car. And given the kind of driving your wife does, don't expect miracles. The very low end of the EPA numbers is all you can reasonably hope for. Our 4 cyl automatic settled in about 24-25 mpg in mixed suburban driving, which was not as demanding as you describe. Long trips yielded just short of 30 mpg after the car was fully broken in, which took nearly 7000 miles.
FYI - Some good news for honda owners. My 2000 LX V-6 has approximately 14,000 miles with absolutely no transmission problems. I recently discussed honda maintenance issues with two co-workers of mine. They both own 1998 V-6 LX Accord's with over 60,000 miles. I asked them if they had experienced any transmission problems. They both indicated that their transmissions were trouble free. All three cars are driven in stop and go traffic in the DFW area. Not a friendly environment for tranny's with the extreme summer heat. So all I can say is stop worrying about the V-6 honda tranny. It seems to work very well in difficult driving conditions.
I have a 4cyl coope 5spd and havent gotten less than 27mpg with all city driving and the highest i got was 34.5 all highway. i have 2000 miles on my car. On the highway i got 564 miles on 15 gal of gas. I am not sure how much extra gas the automatic sucks up.
I have a 2000 SE 4 cyl automatic w/ 11500 mi. Most of my driving is on the highway and I usually get 30 to 31 mpg. I would think that city driving should get around 23 or 24 mpg. However, the mileage will improve, as it took me about 4,000 or 5,000 miles to hit 30mpg. Before that, I think I got 27 or 28 mpg.
Haven't seen auburn lately, maybe someone else can help. I have an '89 Accord LX-i. The temperature guage moves quite high in the range, getting very close to the top. Even this am when the temp was relatively cool it creeped up during the commute in (no A/C on). I noticed only one of the cooling fans was running after I parked. Being this car is old I don't want to do much but I also don't want to be stranded with an overheated car. Some thoughts I had, drain and refill the coolant (It's been several years since this was done) and(or?) change the thermostat (changed almost 9 years ago when the water pump was replaced). The cooling fan thing puzzles me, I've owned the car for a dozen years and I'm sure both fans ran at one time (why else would there be two?) Can anyone offer suggestions or confirm what I think needs to be done. I appreciate it.
I can't speak specifically for the Accord about the two cooling fans (even though I have one myself!) but on my parent's old Camry, the second fan was part of the A/C. Don't know exactly what it did. So, it's been several years since touching the coolant, and nine years since you touched the thermostat? Unless you've got a leak somewhere, I think you answered your own question.
I agree with what Lancerfixer is saying. The second fan is related to the AC. The other thing that will happen is that over time the fins in a radiator get filled with crud, road dirt, rocks, bugs,etc and lose some ability to disipate heat. Change your fluid, maybe the thermo.
If that doesn't take care of it, a fairly easy thing to try is to, pull the rad take it to a car wash and use a power washer to clean in out from the back. I know a number of people that have done that with success on cars with a few years on them.
Thanks for the quick responses. I think I'll drain and fill the coolant (don't want to flush because of the age of the radiator) and see if that helps. If not I will change the thermostat. Sound reasonable? Or should I just do both (or should I say have the mechanic do both) at the same time.
On a trip through IA on a hell hot day-my 80 accord temp gauge indicated overheating. Turned heater on hot position-defrost and on full blast-temp gauge stayed in safe zone. When I got home-I found the copper fins on the radiator were falling apart. They just turned to dust when I touched them. Replaced the radiator and no problems. If you live in the snow belt with lots of salt-this could be the problem. Also change that coolant-gets acid or was it basic over time and dissolves gaskets.
If you really overheat a honda-chances are good you will warp the head and blow a head gasket. I have heard horror stories about the success rate of fixing warped heads/blown head gaskets. Fix it now.
I certainly know that if it overheats that would probably be the end of a 12 year old car. I have already done the heat on thing as that temp. needle was getting awfully close to the top. Did some checking today, the water pump is working. Not exactly sure how to check if the thermostat is functioning properly. It was a little low on coolant, added some just as a stop gap but it didn't seem to help. I have to admit the cooling system is one area I neglected in my maintenance over the years, but even if the car dies tomorrow I would say I got my money's worth. If I have anything more to report I'll post in the meantime any other suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
My wife drives a 2000 Honda Accord coupe, Ex V-6. The dealer just completed, about 2 weeks ago, the 22,000 mile checkup. They informed me that the front brakes were fine, but the rear brakes were down to .5mm of being at a point to be replaced. They did mention that the rear brakes are not as thick as the front brakes when they are new. However my wife is very upset , as she should be, about REAR brakes wearing out so fast. 90% of all her driving is on the freeway. Something does not add up. She does not drive with her emergency break on and is not a heavy to the metal driver.. Her 1991 Honda has 143,000 miles and STILL has the same rear brakes.. So my question is, could this be a defect that Honda is aware of?? Some feedback before I turn up the HEAT would be appreciated. Thank you and have a nice day!!
I have a 98 with the rear disks and had those done at 30K miles. I was suprised at that myself but accepted the dealer's explanation that the rear disks are less substantial than the fronts. I'm not a technician but I don't think it's a defect - jsut the nature of the beast.
I also had a 91 and went 112K before having to replace the front disks. Never touched the rears in the 140K I owned it. That was a 5 sp and the 98 is an auto so there is some difference there.
I have a 2001 with a 4 cylinder, automatic trans. with 700 miles. This problem only seems to happen when the engine is cold. Right after it starts, there's this loud clunk, it happens only once. It almost sounds like a bad motor mount, which are all OK. Not a metal sound, like something is binding, but everything operates normal and it won't happen again until the car has sat for a while. Anybody have any ideas????????????Thanks
Carguy62 If the temp just keeps getting hotter as you drive then I would start at the thermostat. You can sort-of check it by feeling the upper and lower radiator hoses and compairing the temps. If they are not the same temp then you may have a stuck thermostat, which could cause your problem. Systems such as your which has been slightly neglected could have multiple problems such as radiator and water pump fins rotting away. Thermostat is easiest and cheepest so you may want to start there. As for the fans they only run at the same time if the A/C is on. Otherwise the fan on the passenger side is the one that operates as the main cooling fan.
brakes They are alot thicker in the front than in the back so that is why they usally go first. With the older models most of them were rear shoes which last for ever and the ones with rear pads were thicker than they are today.
Clunk, There is a service bulletin that addresses what sounds like your complaint. I can't remember the number but I will try and find it. Otherwise you can ask the Honda dealer that you go to they should know.
First of all I have read all 1200+ posts to find my answers(what a great site this is). I own a 98 Accord v6 a/t. The malfunction indicator lamp is on. I used OBDII to read codes. Codes are P1491:EGR valve lift insufficient detected P0420:catalytic system efficiency below threshold P0401:insufficient flow detected in EGR system. I used the trouble shooting guide in my service manual for code P0401 (clean EGR port& passage inside EGR valve) no help. The guide for code:P1491 says at one point to hookup EGR valve directly to the battery & the engine should stall or run rough,mine did not. If it doesn't to replace the EGR valve. But before I did that I was wondering about a TSB I have heard of instructing to clean the EGR ports. Is this under the cylinder head crossover pipe? Does anyone know the TSB number for this? Any & all help is needed & appreciated By the way ,if anyone is planning working on their own car I would suggest getting the service manual. It's worth the price.
I drive an '88 Honda Accord and have had similar heating problems. When I took it to a mechanic, he wasn't sure what it was, fuel pump, or heating core. Usually, when I experienced heating problems, the heater would blow cold air, and radiator would leak. And sometimes the engine heated up when it was like -10 F outside. I had already changed the thermostat, so it couldn't be it. And the radiator was fairly new. One day, as I was driving it, one of the belts broke loose (luckily it wasn't the timing belt). I took it to the mechanic immediately, he replaced some belts related to the water pump. I haven't experienced any heating problems since then, and the car has gained some more power too.
I just had my car inspected (PA safety inspection), and niether the front nor rear brake pads need replaced on my 98 Accord. I have 50,000 miles. After reading in here about rear pads wearing out, I half expected to be told that the rear or all of the pads needed replaced, but my mechanic says they all have a lot of material left.
So, I would guess the rear pads are rubbing if they are wearing out in 30,000 miles or less.
Sounds as if you should take the manifold off and clean the EGR port.There is a bulletin out for re-routing the PCV hose and clean the port which is supposed to help this but I am not sure on the bulletin number or the years it calls for.I will try to remember to check tomorrow.
Does your car have disc brakes on front and back? The early wear is with rear disc pads. If they're brake shoes the wear won't be as much. I had mine checked at 22,500(disc all around) and they said they were satisfactory. They wouldn't comment on how many miles were left on them because wear is dependent on the type of usage they get and hard stops would cause faster wear than moderate stops.
Comments
is where the outside mirror housing pivots with the actual mirror. Now snap the mirror back to regular position. You should see a a very small horizontal seam/gap between the mirror housing and the actual mirror(about 1/4 inch vertical and 2 1/2 inches horizontal. hats where I but the electrical tape over the horizontal seam. It took care of my wind noise, that's all I know. I assumed it was air rushing through this small gap that was making the wind whistle.
Hope that helped.
tonight
we have a check engine light that stays on -- NO-- it is not the gas cap. Owners man. says it
has to do with polution controls. Anyone else with a newer one of these -- had anything like
this happen? -- Dealer will get a call first thing tomorrow-- Good grief -- I hope this is not an
indicator of more problems -- Hell -- we have not even made the first payment!!!-- its only 2
weeks old!!
Just thought I would run this by the knowledgeble folks that frequent this board.
I will be upgrading the speakers and deck in my 94 Accord Sedan.
I read a while back about adding "insulation material" to the door panels.
Does anyone here have any information on this? How effective will it be?
The road noise is not too bad. However I would not mind a quieter ride.
Especially since the door panels will have to be removed to upgrade the speakers.
thanks
It takes a fixed number of engine starts [I believe it is six, but I'm not sure] before the OBD trap will be reset by the computer, and the light will go out. Of course, it could be something else, which is why the trip to the dealer is a good idea - but don't be surprised if the cap is indeed the source of the problem.
The federal rules on OBD sensitivity have been a huge issue for the car makers, especially Toyota, who actually went to court over this. Small or even non-existent problems are driving both owners and dealers nuts...don't assume anything about long term reliability over this situation.
I am responding to a couple of messages posted earlier[around the #1230..]
I do to have windnoise from my mirror it is not that bad though i dont even notice it anymore.
Also I have the same thing happened to me today for the first time with the sideairbag lamp coming on shortly [978miles on my new 2001ex-v6 as of today],it came on today for a few seconds while i was sitting in my car in park with engine running waiting for the rain to stop...what wonders me about it is that when I am sitting down in the driver's seat im always getting this clicking noise from about where the sideairbag is located in the seat...also when im putting weight with my shoulder while sitting to the location where the sideairbag is Im also getting that clicking noise[always clicks once]aaaaaannnoying
Finally has anyone ever noticed if it gets wet inside the car where the sunroof closes into the roof after it rains.....i noticed that i had some moisture in the crack between the roof and the part where the sunroof rests on when closed thankfully it doesnt get inside the cabin anywhere where it could hurt fabric [yet?]. there is a barrier to keep anything to get into the car and get the inside wet but i still dont like this............none of my previous cars'sunroofs have ever had let any water through before.
please if anyone could let me know if they ever had noticed anything like that????????? I will bring this to the dealers attention next week and post whatever i might find out then. thanks everyone.
PS i do have confidence in honda since i owned honda's before but this does bother me quite a bit.
One the the drawbacks of side air bags is that if the passenger (hopefully not the driver) are asleep and their heads are leaning towards the bag, there is the potential for injury from a side airbag.
Do you guys think this is covered under warranty?
Does someone have any idea why my low fuel indicator came on when there was still one fifth of gas left indicated by the fuel gauge? I refueled the tank to full with roughly 13.5 gallons of gas. Shouldn't the fuel tank of Accord hold 17 gallons? It happened every time around the 13.5 mark. My car is a 2001 Accord EX with only 700 miles on it. Is it a malfunction of the low fuel indicator or it is supposed to be like this? Anyone has similar experience? If this is a malfunction, can it be corrected somehow? Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.
There is a reason: running out of fuel in one of these cars is very hard on the catalysts, and can cause problems elsewhere in the fuel system, as well.
And one last observation: fuel gauges are notoriously inaccurate, across the entire spectrum of the automotive world. There seems to be some expectation out there that nominal fuel capacity [which is just that: NOMINAL] will somehow translate into a nice linear movement of the fuel pointer. WRONG. Tank shape, float design and placement in the tank, number and position of tank baffles, and other variables mean the gauge will never be accurate except at absolute empty...the one reading you don't want to see. The rest of the time, it is an approximation, and a rough one at that. Never use it as an indication of anything else.
When the low fuel light on my 99 EX V-6 coupe comes on, there is still something like four gallons of gas left...a lot.
On the other hand, we once owned a Buick that had a low fuel light that only came on when we were running on fumes. When it came on, it meant business! Found out the hard way.
I know what I would rather have!
The replacement fuel gauge in my v6 accord is showing a completely different calibration than the original. Now, 1/2 tank means I've used @9 gals(actual half tank should be @ 8.56, so pretty accurate in my estimation). The original, at half tank meant I had used @7 gals, almost 20% off.
Why is that, since all parameters have remained unchanged? Because the original was bad. Pure and simple.
I have yet to run it to E, but the original had @ 3 gals left when the light came on. I won't run it to E just to be safe but will refuel @ 1/4 tank for the next accuracy evaluation. After that I'll have a pretty good idea of what exactly E is, but I'm pretty sure it won't be as much as 3 gals(like the first one).
By the way, I was able to rationalize why the first one performed the way it did, but after reading many other posts about this problem I decided to let the dealer know and he immediatley replaced the FSU without any attempt to convince me that this was "normal" or that maybe it was just in my head. That should tell something to all the people who get the "it's normal" response when they have problems they don't think should be there.
Ever since Honda replaced my 'Fuel Sending Unit', my gas gauge has been more or less accurate. Besides, I now use the "B" trip mileage indicator on my tripmeter to record how many miles I've gone since the last fuel fillup. At 750 miles, I know to fill it up again. Hehe, only kidding. I actually do that but I get the gas station iche at about 275-300.
-They often change suppliers in mid-production, which can change the equation [a new supplier of FSUs, a new float design, etc.]
-I've NEVER had two cars of the same make and model [and we have been in that situation more times than most people] with fuel gauges that read exactly the same way...period. We've had two same-generation Accords in the garage at once, and twice have had two same-generation Camrys at the same time...fuel gauges all behave differently.
Look, I'm not saying yours didn't have a problem - I am saying that there is a lot of worry on this topic out here in Forum-Land that I think is misplaced. There was even a long [I mean very long] thread in one of the Toyota topics on this very issue, with people insisting that half a tank should by-god-be 8.645 gallons, etc. In some other universe, maybe...
The biggest variable of all is that, short of filling it to overflowing each time [which is bad for the recirc system, and bad for the atmosphere], you can't consistently get the same amount into a so-called "full tank" each time, anyway, no matter how hard you try. I think it just makes more sense to use the odometer as your primary indicator, and the fuel meter as a stopgap safety measure...I think of it as being there basically to keep you from running completely dry, and for nothing else.
the problem is i cannot play a cd that was burned from any computer in the cd player. i have come across another friend who owns accord with same problem. does anyone know how this can be fixed?
Has anyone else noticed this problem?
AS The problem I asked about last week --The check engine light-- was reset by the dealer -- and they could not figure out what set it off. Service mar said honda was setting the computers "too sensitive" for this particular sensor (the one that senses a gas cap left off or a hole in the tank)
after the car was fully broken in, which took nearly 7000 miles.
of my driving is on the highway and I usually get
30 to 31 mpg. I would think that city driving should get around 23 or 24 mpg. However, the mileage will improve, as it took me about 4,000 or 5,000 miles to hit 30mpg. Before that, I think I got 27 or 28 mpg.
If that doesn't take care of it, a fairly easy thing to try is to, pull the rad take it to a car wash and use a power washer to clean in out from the back. I know a number of people that have done that with success on cars with a few years on them.
If this doesn't work, I would suggest you get it looked at by a pro. Guessing and ignoring things can lead to big expense.
If you really overheat a honda-chances are good you will warp the head and blow a head gasket. I have heard horror stories about the success rate of fixing warped heads/blown head gaskets. Fix it now.
I also had a 91 and went 112K before having to replace the front disks. Never touched the rears in the 140K I owned it. That was a 5 sp and the 98 is an auto so there is some difference there.
This problem only seems to happen when the engine is cold. Right after it starts, there's this loud clunk, it happens only once. It almost sounds like a bad motor mount, which are all OK. Not a metal sound, like something is binding, but everything operates normal and it won't happen again until the car has sat for a while.
Anybody have any ideas????????????Thanks
If the temp just keeps getting hotter as you drive then I would start at the thermostat. You can sort-of check it by feeling the upper and lower radiator hoses and compairing the temps. If they are not the same temp then you may have a stuck thermostat, which could cause your problem. Systems such as your which has been slightly neglected could have multiple problems such as radiator and water pump fins rotting away. Thermostat is easiest and cheepest so you may want to start there. As for the fans they only run at the same time if the A/C is on. Otherwise the fan on the passenger side is the one that operates as the main cooling fan.
brakes
They are alot thicker in the front than in the back so that is why they usally go first. With the older models most of them were rear shoes which last for ever and the ones with rear pads were thicker than they are today.
Clunk,
There is a service bulletin that addresses what sounds like your complaint. I can't remember the number but I will try and find it. Otherwise you can ask the Honda dealer that you go to they should know.
Hope this was helpful.
So, I would guess the rear pads are rubbing if they are wearing out in 30,000 miles or less.