I'm not familiar with the '90 specifically, but if your clutch is cable operated as my 4cyl Hondas have been, it requires periodic adjustment as the clutch disk wears. Adjustment on my Honda 4s have been a simple, no tools operation via a plastic collar at the clutch end of the cable. If lack of adjustment was the problem and you have not burned off what was left of the disk by driving it while slipping, you may be able to restore normal operation.
Oxi-clean powered hvac system? Anyone know where the heater, air direction, and AC toggle buttons get power from? None of the buttons are lit like normal, nor do they change the direction of the airflow when pushed. Checked fuses inside under driver-side dash, and fuse box in engine compartment - all look OK. AC button still makes engine fan come on, but does not light up or provide cool air. All other electrical lights, parts, and accessories working fine. Any help greatly appreciated!
I have some information that might help you. Since you said you checked the fuses, double check fuse's, with a 12 volt test light, #5 (in dash) #25, #21 and #22(under hood).#21,#22 and #25 feed the ignition switch. #5 feeds a yellow/black wire that goes directly to your Fresh/Recirculation Motor and to your Function Control Motor. Check to see that you have 12 volts at that wire going into each of those. If not, trace the wire back to find the "open" in the wire and repair. If you do have power to those, check your ground wires (black) and make sure those have good connections. There might be power to one motor and not the other, that will tell you which part is bad. You didn't say if your blower motor worked at all, that feed is a blue/white wire. The two motors in question are solid state circuitry and cannot be repaired. It sounds to me like it could be the Function Control Motor since that houses a dimming circuit and all the controls for your air flow functions, vent, defrost,hi-lo,heat and h/defrost. Hope this helps.
At 68-75mph I get a noise that sounds like a wheel bearing noise or a noise or a tire noise whine like a truck tire would make. very slight noise I can also hear it at lower speeds. the radio has to be off or very low to here it. have changed air pressure and it really did not change the noise. any ideas?
Yeah, you're probably right, you could have a wheel bearing or a u-joint/flex-joint problem on one of the front axles. Only a competent service tech is going to know for sure.
Instead of trying to guess what it might be, it would probably be a smart idea to have it looked at by a professional before it develops into something worse or leaves you stranded.
Your problem could be a wheel bearing but it's suggested that you first check the edges of each tire for "scalloping". This is the intermittent wear that can be felt (but may not be readily visible) by moving your fingertips around the periphery of the tire tread. Check both the outer and inner edges of the tread; the center ribs of the tread will be OK. Such wear is generally caused by poor alignment, either front or rear, and is can occur within 5000 miles or less. An incorrect toe setting is usually the problem. This is not uncommon on new cars and the first symptom is likely to be the tire noise. Realignment will re-establish proper wear characteristics but will not correct the noise. Some noise reduction may be achievable if the tires are rotated. In extreme cases, Honda has replaced the tires.
The speedometer in my Y2K V6 reads high when I travel on the freeway. Often reads 80 mph when I'm only going with the crowd. The dealer says it will slow to normal when it gets older. It is 2 years old now. How Old? Is there a fix?
Well, firstly, it isn't going to change as the car gets older [except to get a little more off in the too-fast direction, as the tires wear a bit] - that qualifies as a real candidate for the most hilarious dealer quote this year...every year produces a couple of good ones.
Anyway, get used to it. All of the Acura and Honda products I've owned and driven in the past 5 years [96 RL, 98 and 01 Accords] have all been fast to one degree or another. Our '01 V6 seems to be the closest to reality, the '96 RL was so far off as to be funny...about 7% seems to be the average when you get up above 70 mph.
Before you draw the next logical conclusion, no, this does NOT mean the odometer is off by a like amount. They are driven by different subsystems, and the odos on all three cars were accurate within 1% for any given measured mile, but the speedos were all 6-8% on the optimistic side. I just learned to compensate...this level of error is within industry guidelines, however annoying it can seem at times.
I recently had a used japanese engine(30k miles) put into my 1990 honda accord lx. But there are a few problems with it. The idle seems to sputter, and while driving at about 2000 to 2700 rpms I can hear the engine pinging. Also it seems to be a lot louder than it used to.
I called the mechanic who installed the engine and he told me it could be from bad fuel.(which didn't seem likely because I always put good fuel in.) He told me to put in premium and also add a bottle of techron. I did both of those things and not a single thing has changed.
My old engine never had problems at all. And it seems as if my old engine was even more powerful. Does anyone know what the problem is here. Is it the engine? or something else?
I concur with Jrct9454's speedometer remarks. I have also found Honda odometers to be accurate within about 1% and the speedometers to generally read 6-8% high. (A portable GPS is a good way to check speedometer calibration.) If your error is more than 10%, which is unlikely, I believe you would have grounds for a complaint. Even then, I'm not at all sure that Honda would agree. As Jrct9454 said, accuracy will not improve with use. I would be leery of a shop that said otherwise. Note that many other cars have similar speedometer errors.
Why all of those used Japanese "crate" engines have exactly 30,000 miles on them?
I think that is total garbage. Usually they do check compression and run them on a stand to listen for noises etc.
I think this person had a sloppy installer who didn't hook up all of the vacuum lines correctly or something. It also sounds like an exhaust leak was created. all of this can be fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.
Bingo! Fuse #5 was the culprit. Have now learned that you can't tell if these plastic spade fuses are good or bad until you remove them from the block and really look at them, unlike the good old fashioned glass tube type. Thanks very much!
Hey Guys, Has anyone experienced hesitation on the 4cy.EX. I drove one today with AC on and noticed major hesitation. I was told 3 different scenarios. 1. That's the way the v-tech engine works. 2. The car has not been prep. yet and will be o. after prep work is done. 3. It's because the gas is low in the car-on Empty Someone please help. I hate these car dealers. Tom
Frustrated by Honda dealer's inability to give a straight answer to much of anything.
Does anyone know if the 1997 Accord Special Edition wheels will fit on a 1998 Accord LX. Dealers are not really sure, but something about an "offset" is concerning them?
barbuto---if you are doing something no one else has tried before (obviously the dealer hasn't) the safest way is to get one wheel and mount a tire on it and then with the car on a lift check all clearances, front and rear. It takes some time and maybe a small investment, but then you'll be SURE.
Darned if I can't find the link, but elsewhere on Edmunds someone (it might have been another host) posted a link to a website that listed all stock bolt patterns, offsets, and tire diameters by manufacturer. It was pretty helpful.
My 99 LX A/T is experiencing a slight thumping noise when going into slight bends in the road at speeds of 20-40 mph or higher. There isn't any vibration of any kind i.e., the steering wheel etc. But the thumping noise is there. I did have a tire fixed for a leak. The tire place did balance the tire. Also, a few weeks before the tire leak, I did avoid a near frontal collision by slamming on my brakes and going into skid leaving 30-40 feet of burnt rubber. The noise appears to becoming from the front end. The car drives perfectly straight and when applying the brakes no pulling to the right or left. Any comments would be appreciated. The tires are original Michilens with 15,000 miles on them that have been rotated accordingly.
You may have flat spotted the front tires when you had to make the emergency stop. Also, cupping on the tires will sometimes cause the symptoms that you describe. I'd have a good tire shop check them out.
I too vote for flat-spotted tires, without anything else to go on. There are lots of other possibilities, but that would be my first suspect:
-Swap the front wheels with the back, and see if anything changes...I'm betting it will. That will point you in the direction of the tires, though from your description, you may have succeeded in flat-spotting all four. The only solution is new tires. Another vote for ABS?
Thank you all of you for your input. I did think of the flat spot in the tires, but wouldn't you hear that thumping noise driving straight? It only occurs when driving into a bend in the road. Anyway, I just wanted some opinions on this issue so my reluctant visit to the Honda dealer, I can be somewhat prepared in giving them some ideas as to what I think the problem is. I'm not on the best of terms with my local Honda dealer...they've screwed up a couple of times, although minor, it was a great inconvienence...I just don't have full confidence in their service dept.
Sitting at a red light I saw a V6 accord coupe(98 or newer) sitting next to me. Had my window down and heard this very loud ticking from it. Stuck my head out the window just to be sure it wasn't my car. Hopefully they incurred this raucous from negligence ,poor maintenance or dogging it. Would hate to think of the prospect of my LX v6 ever starting tick like this. Honestly, you would think it was some Chrysler K car or something. Scary!
I posted a similar message on the Accord Coupe board, so forgive me if you've seen this question before:
I've never had a car with ABS, so maybe this is the norm, but thought I'd ask the experts here. I notice a slight jiggle in the brake pedal when I brake. If I just put my foot on the pedal and try to move it, I can actually jiggle it back and forth about 1/8 inch each way left and right.
Is this the just the way ABS brakes function? BTW, I've had my car about two months...it's a 2001 EX-V6 with 1800 miles
Hmmmm....... I have the same vehicle as you, except a 4 cyl., and I too have about 1/8" or maybe more play in the pedal, side to side. When you move the pedal, side to side, that is a normal condition. You don't want the brake linkage's so tight they bind, you need a certain amount of "free play."
But....a soft pedal vibration, or thumping, during normal braking could indicate a warped brake rotor. If that's the case, you should have the brakes looked at.
If you are experiencing a rapid pulsing, up and down movement, when braking then that sounds like your ABS coming on. This will happen when you apply the brakes in a hard manner, like on slick roads and emergency braking. That too is normal.
Read you owners manual for a complete description of the ABS system. Hope this helps.
Guys, When should I go for First Oil Change for 2001 Honda Accord EX V6. The dealer says that it should be done after 1000 miles but somewhere I read which says that it should be done after 7000 miles or so.The enginer has some special break-in oil so I would like to know from netizens about the first oil change. When should I go for ? after 1000 miles ? or after 3000 miles or after 7000 miles.
There is a special break-in oil added at the factory. DO NOT change the oil until after a least 3500 miles, but I would do it before 7000. I will change mine at 3500 miles. That way you know the engine has broke-in properly. HAVEFUN...........Hope this helped. Bob
About a month and a half ago I wrote in to this board about a check engine light at 6XX miles or so. I took it in to the dealer -- they found nothing - did nothing -- This is the wife's car -- it now haw a whopping 1656 miles on it and the check engine light came on again. We have been making sure the gas cap is tightly closed . Any Ideas as what hints to what to suggest to the dealer. This is a bit absurd -- to say the least-- that this has happened twice in 5 tankfuls/1600 miles! Help-- if anyone has any ideas to suggest -- It is a 2001 EXL 4cyl auto!
If you could get them to tell you the code that is on the computer it would help. We have seen a few P1456. P1457 and P1164. The 56 is usally a loose gas cap, the 57 is usally a canister vent shut valve and the 1164 is usally a new computer. There are alot of other codes that it could be so these are just a few that we see often. Good luck
Just goes to show you no two people from a Honda dealership can agree on the same thing. One dealer here in Atlanta told me to wait until 7000 miles. The one I eventually went to told me no sooner than 3750 miles because Honda no longer uses break in oil. I got it done at 3600. Don't think I'd wait until 7000!
I recently purchased a 2001 Accord, and have been experiencing a hissing noise coming from the A/C. The Honda maintenance folks say it is the Freon circulating throughout the system; the only potential fix was to change the expansion valve, but this did not work. Now the dealership claims nothing else can be done and I have to live with it. It is driving me crazy!! Has anyone else experienced this or have any advice?
The noise is considered to be normal from what I have been told. I know of several cars that do it as well as my A/C evap coil in my house. It is there on most cars if you listen closely on a hot day but for some reason is more noticeable on certain cars.
i just bought it with 91,000 miles. i put in a new timing belt and water pump and changed out a few belts. how long will this last or when do I need to do this again? i did a lot of searching and every dealer wanted like 7000 to 8000 for '95 with 125,000-160,00 miles. i bought mind for 71,000 and probably putting 450 into it for the repairs above.the private seller just put new brakes on it and 2 new tires and the other 2 look good. somebody tell me i did good! i bought it for my daughter and she loves it.is this a good year for honda? Peggy
Pbagrat is correct in reporting that you can find many different stories about break-in oil by asking at multiple dealerships. If Honda Motor Co. does add some break-in component to the original oil (a point which remains doubtful), its effect is very minor and replacement of that oil after only a few miles will not be harmful. For most driving styles, an oil change at 2000 to 3500 miles should set the stage for long engine life. While almost most engines will also do very well with a 7000-mi initial change, I would not temp fate by waiting that long. We should keep in mind that the oil change requirement can be a selling point so Honda, and the other manufacturers, do not want the dealer employees to indicate that their cars need more frequent oil changes than is required for a competitive brand. As far as I can determine, when a dealership installs a new engine, they use off-the-shelf motor oil because they have no more access to the "mysterious" break-in oil than does the public.
I will ask the dealer tomorrow --what code they see -- also tomorrow they are going to fix the thump at start problem we are hearing -- This board is great -- most people would not know about the TSB's etc. if not fot these type of websites and the internet. -- I wonder what the insiders say about all this info becoming more more "public"!!??
I had seen that check engine light before and my dealer ended up changing the catalytic converter in my car. I didn't have to pay for the part but I had to pay for the labor/installation.
Since then, I have not seen the check engine light go on.
I have a 98 lx 4cyl accord - 56k miles. Hope that helps.
This may count as just more hearsay, but I have a friend who has been a mechanic at a Honda dealer for 20 years. He told me that Honda does indeed use special "break-in" oil for new cars. He suggested changing the oil the first time at whatever interval I planned on using afterward, but said he generally doesn't recommend going quite as long as the 7500 miles in the manual. I change my oil every 4,000 miles and have since the first time.
OK, being a mechanic myself and knowing a little about vehicles, let's put the engine oil issue to rest. Honda does use an oil from the factory to aid in break-in. Do not change it before 3500 miles.
The viscosity and lubricating effectiveness of oil breaks down over time, that's why we have to change it!! Oil needs to be changed at regular intervals depending on time and or driving conditions. Oil and filters are CHEAP. Change them every 3500 miles. Your engine will last longer!!!!
You'll be fine. Just make sure the oil seal retainer recall has been performed (if it was the dealer who installed your timing belt/water pump, they may have done it already.) I've got a '94 Accord and it has given me (thus far) 110,000 miles of trouble-free service. I'm going for 200,000.
My roommate has a 98 Accord V6 with 35,000 miles. On the way back from a trip to New Orleans, her alternator went out about 120 miles from Austin,TX. I've noticed that the alternator in my 2000 Accord V6 appears to be a GM-type Delphi. Are they especially problem prone, to go out at 35,000 miles? (Unfortunately, my roommate's car is out of warranty because of its age.) Are there better alternators to replace the OEMs when they go bad? I'm not a big fan of GM parts. If I wanted their parts,I would have bought a GM. Shouldn't an alternator last more than 35,000 miles, especially on a Honda? Have they improved the alternators since then, so that this probably won't happen on any of our 2000+ Accords?
That's those genuine Honda parts the warranty pamphlet refers to when needing replacement under warranty. Probably the only thing that's genuine Honda is the "H" emblem.
If it's so critical not to do the first oil change before a certain number of miles, why isn't it addressed in the owner's manual. No where is there mentioned NOT to do the first oil change before such and such miles. The first I heard of this terribly important detail was on this site and a link to Honda's site. I did my first one on my 2k LX v6 at 500 miles and the second at 3750. Doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes(3k to 3.5k interval) and I now have almost 24k on it. Today's quality oils are to such a high standard no harm would be done changing it as soon as you want. Notice I said QUALITY oils. The cheap stuff probably would hurt it. I'm sure somebody will cast future gloom and doom for my doing this(i.e. engine will blow at 50k) but that's just how some people get their kicks I guess. Like I said, if it was so important I'm sure the owner's manual would have vigorously stressed this.
You are correct. That very IMPORTANT detail should be put in the owner's manual! And the Dealer should tell there customers about this also! I have contacted Honda Customer Service and told them they should include this in the manual. They agreed but we will see what happens. And you are correct again. Today's quality oils are manufactured and blended to a high standard. But why take that CHANCE. Also, look at the engine's we are putting them in and weights. Small 4 & 6 cylinder's and 5w20??? Just glad to see you are changing oil every 3K-3.5K!
Comments
The two motors in question are solid state circuitry and cannot be repaired. It sounds to me like it could be the Function Control Motor since that houses a dimming circuit and all the controls for your air flow functions, vent, defrost,hi-lo,heat and h/defrost. Hope this helps.
Probably not a big deal but it's good to know!
Anyway, get used to it. All of the Acura and Honda products I've owned and driven in the past 5 years [96 RL, 98 and 01 Accords] have all been fast to one degree or another. Our '01 V6 seems to be the closest to reality, the '96 RL was so far off as to be funny...about 7% seems to be the average when you get up above 70 mph.
Before you draw the next logical conclusion, no, this does NOT mean the odometer is off by a like amount. They are driven by different subsystems, and the odos on all three cars were accurate within 1% for any given measured mile, but the speedos were all 6-8% on the optimistic side. I just learned to compensate...this level of error is within industry guidelines, however annoying it can seem at times.
I called the mechanic who installed the engine and he told me it could be from bad fuel.(which didn't seem likely because I always put good fuel in.) He told me to put in premium and also add a bottle of techron. I did both of those things and not a single thing has changed.
My old engine never had problems at all. And it seems as if my old engine was even more powerful. Does anyone know what the problem is here. Is it the engine? or something else?
- Jon -
I think that is total garbage. Usually they do check compression and run them on a stand to listen for noises etc.
I think this person had a sloppy installer who didn't hook up all of the vacuum lines correctly or something. It also sounds like an exhaust leak was created. all of this can be fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.
Bad gas...? Yeah, right!
Has anyone experienced hesitation on the 4cy.EX. I drove one today with AC on and noticed major hesitation. I was told 3 different scenarios.
1. That's the way the v-tech engine works.
2. The car has not been prep. yet and will be o. after prep work is done.
3. It's because the gas is low in the car-on Empty
Someone please help. I hate these car dealers.
Tom
Does anyone know if the 1997 Accord Special Edition wheels will fit on a 1998 Accord LX. Dealers are not really sure, but something about an "offset" is concerning them?
If he/she let you drive a car that had not been prepped they made a very stupid mistake.
We would NEVER do that. Every new Honda (and every other make) has to go through a pretty intensive pre-delivery inspection process.
If something isn't right, it is fixed.
-Swap the front wheels with the back, and see if anything changes...I'm betting it will. That will point you in the direction of the tires, though from your description, you may have succeeded in flat-spotting all four. The only solution is new tires. Another vote for ABS?
my car. Hopefully they incurred this raucous from negligence ,poor maintenance or dogging it. Would hate to think of the prospect of my LX v6 ever starting tick like this. Honestly, you would think it was some Chrysler K car or something. Scary!
www.discountconverter.com
For a Honda 4 cyl, $227.95.
I'd also call Midas or some of the other muffler shops. You might be surprised to find their price is more reasonable.
You've got nothing to lose by calling around.
I've never had a car with ABS, so maybe this is the norm, but thought I'd ask the experts here. I notice a slight jiggle in the brake pedal when I brake. If I just put my foot on the pedal and try to move it, I can actually jiggle it back and forth about 1/8 inch each way left and right.
Is this the just the way ABS brakes function? BTW, I've had my car about two months...it's a 2001 EX-V6 with 1800 miles
That Accord Coupe exploded ten minutes later.
It made CNN news!
But....a soft pedal vibration, or thumping, during normal braking could indicate a warped brake rotor. If that's the case, you should have the brakes looked at.
If you are experiencing a rapid pulsing, up and down movement, when braking then that sounds like your ABS coming on. This will happen when you apply the brakes in a hard manner, like on slick roads and emergency braking. That too is normal.
Read you owners manual for a complete description of the ABS system. Hope this helps.
When should I go for First Oil Change for 2001 Honda Accord EX V6. The dealer says that it should be done after 1000 miles but somewhere I read which says that it should be done after 7000 miles or so.The enginer has some special break-in oil so I would like to know from netizens about the first oil change. When should I go for ? after 1000 miles ? or after 3000 miles or after 7000 miles.
Your answer will be appreciated.
I will change mine at 3500 miles.
That way you know the engine has broke-in properly.
HAVEFUN...........Hope this helped. Bob
somebody tell me i did good!
i bought it for my daughter and she loves it.is this a good year for honda?
Peggy
Since then, I have not seen the check engine light go on.
I have a 98 lx 4cyl accord - 56k miles. Hope that helps.
Honda does use an oil from the factory to aid in break-in. Do not change it before 3500 miles.
The viscosity and lubricating effectiveness of oil breaks down over time, that's why we have to change it!!
Oil needs to be changed at regular intervals depending on time and or driving conditions. Oil and filters are CHEAP. Change them every 3500 miles. Your engine will last longer!!!!
BTW, the color you have was called sage.
Are there better alternators to replace the OEMs when they go bad? I'm not a big fan of GM parts. If I wanted their parts,I would have bought a GM.
Shouldn't an alternator last more than 35,000 miles, especially on a Honda? Have they improved the alternators since then, so that this probably won't happen on any of our 2000+ Accords?
I did my first one on my 2k LX v6 at 500 miles and the second at 3750. Doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes(3k to 3.5k interval) and I now have almost 24k on it. Today's quality oils are to such a high standard no harm would be done changing it as soon as you want. Notice I said QUALITY oils. The cheap stuff probably would hurt it.
I'm sure somebody will cast future gloom and doom for my doing this(i.e. engine will blow at 50k) but that's just how some people get their kicks I guess. Like I said, if it was so important I'm sure the owner's manual would have vigorously stressed this.
I have contacted Honda Customer Service and told them they should include this in the manual. They agreed but we will see what happens.
And you are correct again. Today's quality oils are manufactured and blended to a high standard. But why take that CHANCE. Also, look at the engine's we are putting them in and weights. Small 4 & 6 cylinder's and 5w20???
Just glad to see you are changing oil every 3K-3.5K!