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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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    rtfmdudertfmdude Member Posts: 15
    There are a few people that post here work for a dealer. Can you please look up the TSB below and email it to me rtfmdude@yahoo.com. Silicone doesn't fix everything and it is not a permanent fix. Thanks in advance.

    Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 2001
    Service Bulletin Number: 00095 Bulletin Sequence Number: 157 Date of Bulletin: 12/00
    NHTSA Item Number: SB615720
    Component: VISUAL SYSTEMS:SUN ROOF ASSEMBLY (8/82)
    Summary:
    ON SOME VEHICLES, THE MOONROOF SQUEAKS WHEN THE SUNSHADE IS OPEN, THE MOONROOF GLASS IS CLOSED AND THE VEHICLE IS MOVING. *TT
    ------------------------
    Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 2001
    Service Bulletin Number: 00095 Bulletin Sequence Number: 631 Date of Bulletin: 03/02
    NHTSA Item Number: SB631709
    Component: VISUAL SYSTEMS:SUN ROOF ASSEMBLY (8/82)
    Summary:
    VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE THE MOONROOF SQUEAKING. *SLC
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    bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    Is the Accord auto tranny not driver-adaptive, so if you drive aggressively, eventually it would adapt to your driving style and shift at a higher RPM?
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    jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...with only 850 miles on the car? Remind me not to be anywhere in the neighborhood when you want to sell this thing...
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    mm04mm04 Member Posts: 16
    A friend has a 92 Accord LX. The light around the letter "D" (or "D4", not sure) on the dash is blinking. The car seems very sluggish. The owner's manual states that there is a transmission problem.

    Any idea on what is causing this and how to fix it?

    Thanks
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    minesquireminesquire Member Posts: 5
    I know this sounds like a silly question but is it common for the accord (4 cylinder SE) to roll down a 25% grade when you put your foot off the gas in the drive gear? i have another car and it doesn't do that.
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    mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    In your post you said you do a lot of your own maintenance. If you change your own oil, then the transmission fluid is a piece of cake. It costs ~$4/quart from dealer or ~$3 online.

    Just remove 1 nut to drain and no filter to replace. And on my I-4, I don't even have to use ramps to get to the nut.

    Auto on the I-4 requires less that 3Qts to refill.

    However, I do understand you being at 30k, you might want the dealer to do the first change just to record that fact in case of future problems.

    I just did my 2nd change at 72k+ and everything is working fine. My '01 LX user manual says change @60k interval for severe usage for 1st change, but that seems a bit much.

    I'm curious what the dealer will charge to drain and refill your trans.

    mike
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    th83
    That is when they are supposed to shift out at wide open throttle. At red line the rev limiter will cut the ignition.
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    beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    changing the oil is one of the few simple things I don't do myself. On top of that, I get it done at a Valvoline instant oil change. Usually I catch some grief about that in other forums, but I really don't have the time to do it myself and these guys are great. I've been going to them for four 4 years now and still the same guy is running the place. I always watch over them too, just to make sure they don't pull a no-brainer like forgetting the oil. I never buy anything else from them - just the change about every 3k-4k, like fritz. I also drive 15k-20k per year, so therefore the time thing again.

    You guessed right about having the Honda dealer document the tranny fluid change. That's the main reason I called them and was considering having the 30k service done. I suppose if the job is that simple, I could just have Valvoline do it. I'll be calling both tomorrow.
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    th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    I guess that's normal for the Accord but it's different from what I'm used to. My first/last car, a '91 Legend, would touch or sometimes exceed(when accelerating uphill)the redline before shifting into the next gear.

    jrct9454-It had 850 miles on it when I did that so I wasn't breaking any break-in rules. The owners manual says you only need to be gentle during the first 600 miles. I don't always floor my cars. Heck, during most of my driving I keep it under 3k unless I need a little extra power.
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    bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    I think that's normal. If the incline is steep enough, any auto transmission car will roll backwards in D.
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    herbeckgherbeckg Member Posts: 15
    I have to say, I am impressed by your product knowledge and Know-How.
    I pulled the 7.5 Amp fuse to disable the ABS Brake system. How can I get rid of the ABS warning light in dash?
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    The fact that I sell Hondas has nothing to do with the fact that I happen to think it's false economy to tear apart the front of an engine to replace a timing belt and not replace the water pump while you are in there.

    That's like stepping over dollars to save pennies.

    I don't want to pay for the entire bill over again when the tired, 100,000 mile water pump decides to start leaking six months later.

    On the other hand...who knows? It might last another 100,00 miles.

    Do ya feel lucky?
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    mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    I'm sure the quicklube people could knockout the trans drain/refill in under 10 minutes, but, if you decide to let them, be sure to bring the honda ATF-Z1 fluid with you. I'm practically certain they wouldn't stock it and this is one fluid for which you don't want any substitute.
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    beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I remembered that this morning - it's readily available in the auto stores right?
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    mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    To my knowledge, it's only available at Honda dealers and online. I've never seen any Honda products at Walmart,Kmart,Pepboys,Autozone,etc.

    It must be a contract thing ???
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    maxhonda99maxhonda99 Member Posts: 1,289
    th83,

    Mine shifts about 200RPM shy of redline also. V6 COupe.
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    mm04mm04 Member Posts: 16
    Thought for sure that you have come accross this situation before. Any suggestions?
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    tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    I also have a 2000 Accord SE and was just getting ready to change my transmission fluid. I have never done this before but was looking the other day to see what the job would entail and noticed that the one nut you were referring to is actually (pardon my terminology) backwards. A 1/4 inch ratchet wrench fit the hole. Is this the right place? Does the car need to be level to drain this or can I put it on ramps? This thing is so tight I believe I need the ramps to get some leverage just to loosen it. Maybe I am missing something?
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    btyboopbtyboop Member Posts: 3
    If anyone can help????? Where is the fuel pump located? I need to replace. My car will start and immediately stop as if no gas. Please help!
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    btyboopbtyboop Member Posts: 3
    If anyone can send info for fuel pump of 90 Honda accord please send to Rbtyboop@aol.com
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Pull the other fuses in the abs box an wait 15secs and reinstall. If the light comes on and stays on still, you probably need to have the system bled or a bad component. Good luck
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I would do a little more checking first you most likely have a bad main relay and or bad ignition switch as we see way more of these as we do bad fuel pumps..
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    sorry but I missed that post. It sounds as if the trans control unti is going bad..When bad it will stay in 3rd or 4th and give you the sluggish behavior
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    mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    You've found it. It is indeed a recessed fitting and I use a 3/8" rachet. I change mine with the car level. After you're sure of the direction to turn, (you will be under and in front of the rachet if you are right handed like me) give it a pop with the heel of your hand. It is snug and the first time I broke mine loose I thought it was overly-tight.

    Also, be sure to clean the magnetic plug. You will probably be amazed at the amount of gunk on it if this is your first change.

    I would suspect that the pros are either in a pit or under a rack when they drain the trans, so the car would be level for them also. Which is it Auburn?
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    btyboopbtyboop Member Posts: 3
    Thanks auburn63, we checked fuses and got no vibration or pumping sound from tank when ignition turned on. removed back seat and looked in trunk but cannot see anything but a full and empty float...no pump!where else do we find the pump????
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    tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    My bad. When I am underneath the car will I still turn the wrench counterclockwise? I think I will just use a pipe over the wrench for leverage and go for it. I just wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly before I got to aggressive. Thanks!
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    venanzikvenanzik Member Posts: 72
    hi all, a few questions here.
    first: can a do it yourself person who chages oil and filters handle changing hoses and belts with normal gargage tools or is this somthing a garage should handle?.
    Second: if i was to change the hoses. How do you access the bottom hose comming off the radiator? it seems to be behind the plastic guard under the bumper.
    Third: are the belts easy to change? is there a tension spring or is it held tight by losening some screws? easy or hard job?

    Any help and thoughts would be appreciated thanks
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    bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Would suggest you get your ATF in the tranny hot first by driving at least 50 miles if possible-changing when it is hot supposedly will help any gunk in the ATF to be suspended and hopefully drain out into your oil pan. Yeah it is the 3/8" rachet that fits. You will probably have to bang the end of the ratchet wrench a bit with a hammer to loosen it up the first time. Be very careful of the ATF when it comes out-not under pressure but it really squirts out and it is hot hot hot-will burn hell out of your hide-I wear long heavy gloves. Not necessary to jack up your car-just turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and you can easily see the drain plug.

    Use only Honda ATF and change it every 30K. Easier and faster to change than oil. Oh you will need one of those tranny funnel thingies-has a funnel connected to a clear tube. Check the level after filling-see owners manual.
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    mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    I like using the heel of my hand and popping things loose, the pipe is a good idea for better leverage, but I don't think I'll ever use a hammer while lying on the ground under the car because, with my luck, I'll miss what I'm aiming for and probably punch a hole in the trans casing.

    Anyway, after loosening the plug, it's all down hill.
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Well once again there will be no sound from the pump if the main fuel relay is bad which it probably is. Not to say that it is not posible but in the last 13 years or so I have only replaced like 1 fuel pump. So few that I cant remember if it is on the left or right side under those shinny covers in the trunk area under the carpet.But it is back there somewhere. Good luck
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    We have it up on a lift and sitting even/level. From that vantage point it is real easy to change and get the drain plug loose. It has normal threads so put the ratchet in the off position and remove counter clockwise.
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    rtfmdudertfmdude Member Posts: 15
    auburn63,

    Can you please look up the TSB below and email it to me rtfmdude@yahoo.com

    My 01 sedan rattle like crazy with the sunshade open and the moonroof close.

    Make: HONDA Model: ACCORD Year: 2001
    Service Bulletin Number: 00095 Bulletin Sequence Number: 157 Date of Bulletin: 12/00
    NHTSA Item Number: SB615720
    Component: VISUAL SYSTEMS:SUN ROOF ASSEMBLY (8/82)
    Summary:
    ON SOME VEHICLES, THE MOONROOF SQUEAKS WHEN THE SUNSHADE IS OPEN, THE MOONROOF GLASS IS CLOSED AND THE VEHICLE IS MOVING. *TT
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    danorobdanorob Member Posts: 2
    Hi...

    I just picked up my 2002 Accord SE Sedan Yesterday afternoon... I noticed on the drive home that the drivers seat seemed to rock a little bit - When I got home I noticed that the track on the drivers inboard side has about 1/4 inch of play in it - This is the seat with the electric height adjustment - It does not do it if the seat is all the way up, but does do it at any other height - It seems to be the linkage on the inbound side has play in it - if you grab the back of the seat bottom on the inbound side it moves, yet the outbound side has no play - The car has 51 miles on it - is this normal?
    Dan
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    th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    If they're anything like mine, they will take care of it for you. My car had a faulty power steering hose so I called my dealer and he said to bring it in right away. I took it in and he had already made arrangements with the service department to fix my car. Sure enough, less than an hour later they had my car fixed and ready to go. Good luck!
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    bullit71bullit71 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I have had the same problem (among many others) with my 98 V6 Accord Coupe. I took it in to the Honda dealership at 79,900 (after the repeated recommendations of the Honda service advisor) and had the catalytic converter replaced free under the extended emissions warranty. I was told the cost had I waited until I was out of warranty would have been $1000. The warranty expires at 80,000 miles, but American Honda may help you out if you have had the car regularly serviced and had Check Engine/EGR/emissions repairs before. If American Honda can't help you, the next cheapest route is the junk yard - cost for a used catalytic converter should be under $200 and if you are a regular customer, the Honda Service Dept. might put it on for you (about 1-1/2 hours of labor).

    On another note: has anyone had problems with premature wear of the steering wheel grip on '98 Accords? Part of the grip has separated from the steering wheel rim and is coming off in my hands. The Honda dealership gave me a price of $500 ($130 part, the rest labor) to replace the grip -- short of buying a cheap aftermarket steering wheel rim grip/cover at Walmart, is there any other options on fixing this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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    beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    ....finally! Thanks to JCRT and others for helping me with the tire/rim size questions. The 205/65s fit just fine on the car in place of the oem 195/65 mxv4s. As soon as I spend a few more miles on the X1s, I'll post my impressions. Initially, there's hardly any difference, maybe even quieter.

    I have this question though: the tire placard says the proper psi is 30, but that's for the oem 195/65. Should I still use this for the 205/65? The tire shop put them at 35psi. That's the max pressure stamped on the X1. This is the max COLD pressure right? I backed the tires down to 30psi cold.
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    rdrkrdrk Member Posts: 4
    i have a 99 accord lx coupe 4 cyl and sometimes it will turn over but will not start -- plugs,wires,dist cap,rotor button all ok --- some people have suggested it could be the main relay-- does anyone know where the main relay is? after it sits for a couple of hours it will crank.any suggestions will be appreciated.
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    jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Glad it worked out, though I really didn't expect any problems. As to pressures, if it were my car, I would set them at 30 psi. Anything higher merely roughens the ride, with no real payback in handling unless you plan to push the car awfully hard, which I doubt based on these discussions.
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    agrawalagrawal Member Posts: 49
    Usually it is in driver side kick panel. You can call dealer service department and ask them. Sounds like main relay. You can check by cranking the engine and listen for click noise in kick panel, if you don't get one (and car does not start) then main relay is not functioning properly.
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    bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    We took the wife's Accord (SE-V6 with the factory alarm)out yesterday and parked it in a pay lot for about 2 hours. I was sure the car was locked and armed when we left it because I saw the flashing LED on top of the door (and I ALWAYS look before walking away). When we came back, I noticed the LED wasn't flashing but all the doors were still locked. I checked the locks and hood and trunk and there were no visible signs of forced entry. and nothing was taken from the car. I couldn't find any reference in the manual that says what this means. Did someone break in but relocked the car afterwards??! Was there a false alarm? But shouldn't the alarm re-set itself afterwards? I didn't think the system can be disarmed without also unlocking the doors. Has anyone ever encountered this before, or knows what may have caused this condition?
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    th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    My car has been acting terrible the past few days and I'm starting to get mad. It started Friday when I was driving at a steady 55mph approaching a slight decline. I left off the gas to compensate for the acceleration I was expecting and the car went crazy for two seconds. It started bucking and hesitating and then it just quit. Then last night as I was leaving a friend's house I heard the infamous 'clunk' as I shifted it into reverse and listened as the tranny made a quiet washing machine-like sound as I backed up a slight hill. I shook it off until I got home and pulled into my driveway when I heard a slight grinding sound as I eased my car into the garage. I don't know what the heck is going on with my car but it surely isn't typical behavior for a one month old car with 1200 miles. Maybe I'm just being silly but I paid $22k for my car and for that kind of money it shouldn't be making any strange noises or acting up. I would expect such things out of a $9k Kia Rio or a $12k Hyundai Elantra, but not an Accord.
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    bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Saw a funny thing happen about a month ago. Was locking my car and the new DC minivan's alarm system made a noise and the sliding door opened. About 25' away a woman was getting into her Jetta and used her remote alarm to enter and this happened at precisely the same time. I stayed around for a couple of minutes and no one came to get into the DC minivan. Well guess what-two alarm systems with the same code. It can and does happen. I shut the DC minivan's sliding door and wonder what the owner thought when they came back to their alarm which was turned off by another driver.
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    eric102eric102 Member Posts: 122
    My wife's 98 Accord LX has 80,000 easy freeway miles on it. The car has been perfect so far except I just got the ignition switch replacement recall notice in the mail the other day. No brake squeaks or vibrations yet so I assume the rotors are OK. I'm thinking of replacing the front pads myself. Any tips or warnings from you experts? I've worked on drum brakes before, but not disc's (old school), so any basic advice would be much appreciated. Thanks,

    Eric
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    bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    That's interesting. And I guess it is possible. But the Honda system is supposed to re-arm if none of the dooors are opened. In fact, I don't know if it is even possible to lock the doors without arming the alarm.
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    altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I have a 97 Accord SE, automatic transmission, with 38,000 miles. I have recently noticed a clunk sound under the following circumstances:

    1) Under moderately brisk acceleration from a standstill, I hear it at first touch of the gas pedal and also during the 1st gear-2nd gear shift. I don't hear it at any of the other gear changes (i.e., 2-3 or 3-4).

    2) When descending a steep hill, downshifting to take advantage of engine braking, I'll hear it when I first downshift.

    It sounds to me almost like 'play' in a CV joint. I checked the CV boots, all are intact and none show any sign of leaking.

    Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions or comments on what to check next before I call the dealership for an appointment?

    Thanks.
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    bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Got 110+K out of my pads on my 97 LX. Very easy to replace. Have done several pads for friends and hope this "memory" is correct. Your wheels will probably "stick" and you will probably to hit them with a big hammer to break them loose after you take off the lug nuts. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt and remove it-this should let you swing the caliper body up and out of the way. Then you can get the caliper body out of the way, you can remove the pads. Save the pad shims cause unless you are buying a complete pad kit from Honda-these are not included.

    I use a large C clamp or small wooden Jorgensen clamp-what ever is closest to squeeze the piston back in. Before squeezing the piston, loosen the bleed screw slightly and then loosen it up when pushing the piston back into the caliper. This way the brake fluid in the piston squirts out and into a pan you put below. If you are careful you will not get any air into the system. Tighten the bleed screw down using only 6 PF of pressure and replace the dust cover.

    On about the second pad change, I take a turkey baster and before doing this operation, suck out all the brake fluid I can get from the master cylinder and put in new. Brake fluid is hydroscopic-attracts water-and does need to be replaced.

    ALso I have used el cheapo pads for many changes and no problems. Used to use Beck Arnley and now use Autozone. Test the brakes at very low speeds before going on the road-an air bubble in the line means 0 braking effect.
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    bigrypbigryp Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking about purchasing a '87 Honda Accord with 182000 for $400. It had a new/rebuilt engine put in at 130000. The rest is in ok shape. But it probably needs a rebuilt carb soon. How much of a challenge is it to rebuild a carb on your own?
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    eric102eric102 Member Posts: 122
    Thats the kind of info I was looking for. Wow! 110,000 on pads has got to be close to a record.

    Eric
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    robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    "110,000 on pads has got to be close to a record."

    Actually, I got 112K out of a set of front pads on my 91 Accord. Braking is such a pesky annoyance - I prefer to use my horn!! In reality, it was a stick shift and I did lots of highway driving. YMM and will V!!!

    I only got 30K out of the rears on my 98 with an auto.
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    bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Depends upon how much you have to do. IF it is just replacing the floats-yeah the get gas in them and sink and then replacing the O rings on the thingies that slide up and down with the screw adjustment-no big deal. Did both a couple of times on an 80 with no problems. But when you get into taking this thing apart-lots of little bits and pieces and adjustment is critical. Also how clean is the carb-if it is filthy-then cleaning it up is a PITA.
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