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Comments
I looked at the Leatherique web site and I'm going to give their stuff a try.
Pat S.
It only happen when I go over speed bump that are above average height. It doesn't really sound like a bottoming out sound but more like a slippage between two surfaces. This happen as I go over the bump at normal speed and the spring is compressing.
Anyone experience this or know what is happening.
Also what is use to stop the suspension from compressing to much and hitting the frame. I don't see any rubber bumper or anything.
01 accord sedan
Yupp ... you read it right, just this monday, I brought the car to the dealer because of the intermittent noise (like the sound of a helicopter propeller) that is coming from the front passenger side of the car. Honda Tech looked at it, drove it and found out that I have a bad transmission, they said they will order a "new" transmission and it will be delivered in a week. They didn't give a loaner car, they said that there is no harm (beside the transmission) to still drive the car.
Is this true ?
Is bad driving habits causes bad transmission, or its just happens to the "few" accord owners?
I know that Accord have problems with their trans but that is for V6 owners, mine is 4 cyl ?
BTW, I've already put 25K miles on the car.
Thank you all ...
Elmerito25
There are no inherent or generic problems with the Honda automatic with either engine [Auburn can feel free to disagree if his experience says otherwise], but that doesn't mean that one in a thousand or ten thousand or whatever isn't going to fail. Just the luck of the draw when you dealing with any mass-produced device.
There were/are a lot of negative urban legends that built up about the 6 cyl automatics, that actually affected a very small number of cars during the first part of the 2000 model year. It was a bad part that the OEM supplier apparently decided to change without consulting Honda [you can believe that won't happen again anytime soon], and they eventually nailed it after a couple of months of production. This sort of thing happens all the time to everybody, Japanese, American, German, where some piece or other decides to start giving problems. The difference is how quickly the Japanese typically respond and how closely they work with their suppliers to nip problems in the bud. The Germans are notoriously slow about these kinds of problems, because they steadfastly refuse to monitor their OEM suppliers the way the Japanese do. American makers are usually somewhere in between.
But sooner or later, every maker has things that break for no special reason other than the fact that they are designed and made by human beings. Yours is probably an example of this law...
AL.
brisaccord
The noise is a normaly developed noise with some miles. Usally is a bit of a piston pin slap but some times also a little of a crank knock. Neither worth doing anything about as they very rarely get any worse or to the point of needing repair.
auburn, is this normal? Thanks.
Anyone knows the life time for front brake pads, is it around 50k miles?
Thanks,
AL.
(02 Honda Accord V6)
Anybody familiar with this issue and will it get progressively worse. Do I need to replace either the rocker shaft or arms or both.
Brake pad life depends upon driving style. If I lived in LA, I would be happy with 25K on pads. Got 113K on my first set of pads and they had about 10K left. 50K would be reasonable with a lot of city driving.
Depnding on what the overall condition of the car will be when your done and total investment is what you need to look at. Plus what else could you buy for the same amount of money after the repairs.Then decide..good luck
bodydouble
Sounds mormal, I hear like a slight misfire in cars as they warm up that sounds as you say. Probably due to incomplete combustion when cold..
bburton1
There has been some #2 cylynder intake rocker wear that creates a valve tap noise. Inspection of the valve adjustment can diagnose this as the gap will be somewhat larger on that set. Replacement of the rocker arms in that cylynder is the fix..
Maybe your parents will go buy you that Jetta!
Do make sure you like the way the back of the car looks though...hate for you to make another mistake!
didn't know(right?) but on the "alldata" site
there is a tsb on tranny exchange program.
also there has been simliar posts on "nhtsa" site.
symptoms around 40 - 45 mph consistent noise and hesistation. also dealer didn't hesitate to replace.
Bill
Still waiting for the new transmission ...
regards ...
Elmerito25
I have heard that this model Accord had two different radiators suppliers, Nippon Denso and Koyo. My vehicle has the Denso radiator, can I replace it with a Koyo radiator? Supposedly they are interchangeable??? Should I replace the hoses and thermostat as well (although they have been replaced once before and remain in great condition)?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the feedback, elmerito. Good luck on the new tranny.
roby8: Please elaborate on the "noise". I guess with all the talk on failed Honda tranny, I'm getting paranoid about any and all noise that I hear!
Since it seems it is a bit tight what you need to do is: Take a flat blade screw driver and in the holder ring you will see a slot take the screw driver and put the blade in the slot and give it a bump in the counter clockwise direction. By bump I mean hit the handle of the screw driver lightly with the palm of your hand.
02mdx
I dont think you can change brands because I believe the fans mount differant. However you can go aftermarket if you wish. Other than that the change is easy, pull the hoses off disconnect the fans wire connectors, take the four 10mm bolts out of the hold down brakets and if A/C take the 10mm's out of the hold down braket and remove the radiator..GL
IF it is the cap, and IF you have corrected the problem, the trap should be reset after a fixed number of engine restarts, which unfortunately vary from one maker to another. A good rule of thumb is that it could take at least a dozen engine cycles, and as many as 40, to clear the code. If you're a busy driver, that means that if you want to wait a week to 10 days, it could reset itself if the problem has been solved.
Honda, Toyota, and everybody in the business told the EPA that the OBD II problem thresholds were set too low, and that the result would be thousands of needless and harmless OBD alerts that would cost drivers money and dealers time. Yep.
Before clearing the CEL code-check it by shorting out the blue wire connector that is just under the glove box-has 2 blue wires and connected to a plastic wire holder. With the engine off stick a wire in the two circuits in the blue connector-turn the ignition to the on position-don't start engine and then look at the CEL light adn count the number of flashes. If it is 9 long flashes followed by a longer blank interval-that is a emissions code. Got one constantly on my accord-mine has an extended emissions warranty-to 150K. Replaced a control solenoid valve-no change-replaced the gas cap-ok for a few months and now more 90 CEL codes.
let us know what u find
Have a 02 Accord EX 5 speed; have had it for a month and change. There is a noise--a cross between groaning and thumping--that appears to be coming from the drive wheels. It is especially noticeable when turning right and accelerating. It almost sounds like a bad CV joint.
Has anyone else had this problem? Car goes in Thursday, so we shall see what the dealer's service dept. has to say. Any pointers?
Best Regards,
Bob
Now about my little problem with my '98 Accord Coupe EX V6. Until now, everything about this car has been great. I never experienced the rattles, tranny problems, etc. that others have reported. I've had the car up to 115mph (rated top speed is 137) and its a daily commuter.
Recently, the powers that be have been resurfacing the Henry Hudson Parkway here in NY. Over the last 2 months, at least a one mile section of the road (at a time) has been "roughed up" prior to laying down a new patch of asphalt. 'Trouble is the 'current surface removal method' (er, I'm being kind here) sometimes removes the concrete below the level of the asphalt. And the result is an absolutely consistant surface of nothing but potholes, rough surfaces, groves, stones, rocks, uneven strips of road, etc. Ugh!
Its been killing my car. My Accord seems to have stayed the course very well. But the suspension feels a bit off. 'Just a little too loose. It doesn't feel as tight horizontally (ie: side to side during turns etc.) The shocks and vertical movement appears to still be good. And I sense a slight rubbing vibration on the gas petal at low speed. I'm not sure of what I should tell the dealership folks to look for when I next bring it in for service. Help. Could it be the front end alignment? What else should I look for?
the gas cap and additional trips to reset the ECM. After they checked the computer the
service manager came back and explained that they would have to replace the oxygen sensor, the computer module, and all four injectors. Svc. Mgr. stated that Honda has been having problems with the 2000 2.0L accord engines, problems that would require exchanging and/or replacing these critical parts.
This sure doesn't seem like a small or typical problem. If anyone has had this experience or might know why this extensive work may be required, we would like to hear from you. All I can say is we are lucky that it's still under warranty.
You might want to ask your dealership to "retorque" youur suspension. I've had it done a few times to my Acura TL to keep it nice and tight. I guarantee you that you will notice a difference after having the procedure done.